I am currently on the same journey with my 87 F150 six. Started leaking fuel profusely. It had sat a very long time. Now, a new fuel tank, tank pump assy and rail pump and filter, all new injectors o rings, fuel lines and vacuum lines. So now installing the manifold having replaced injector seals. Your vid is heling me remember where everything was:)
Thanks Robert! You have been quite busy! These are good old trucks, and with some upkeep they still provide solid service. I use my videos to remember where everything goes as well.
It seems like a lot to do at first. Watch those shop towels. I make one mistake and roll the engine over and they can get sucked into the intake right quick. I am going back to tea towels or bath towels to cover parts in the future, need arising.
Already deleted the AIR blower and adjusted for a new belt 3 years ago. Got the whole top of the engine off right now. Going with the EGR delete. Don't have the time or money to do the full on injector replacement. But thanks to you, I can do this again in a few hours. Well done.
@@SteveAZ711 Yep. Been there. Temps have been in the 70's this week. Tried something similar to this in the winter one time in Colorado. Epic fail,lol!
Nice work sir! I admire how clean you keep your parts and bolts etc.I am about to replace bolts where exhaust man meets ex pipe on my friends 95 XLT 4.9 5 spd. Has a bad exhaust smell in cabin. If that doesnt fix it maybe remove exhaust manifolds and clean or replace. Do I need to take off intake manifold to get to below or can I somehow get ex man out thru passenger wheel well? Her dad drove it for years but didnt keep up maintainace but rather waited for failure b4 he'd fix it...lol So has lotta rust on most bolts. It was a N Caroilna truck so body not rusted much. But ol red has some nasty looking bolts and nuts. Now that its in upstate NY she wants to refurbish it. And also did you have to mess with any fuel lines on this intake job? Liked your rachet swivel combo trick! You will have hundreds of thousands subscribers one day!
Roger, thanks for the comment! Well, it looks like you are in for some work if the leak is coming from the exhaust manifold. Find out exactly where the leak is (usually black carbon residue around it). Use a mirror or take pics with your phone. If coming from the manifold, then remove the upper intake manifold (no need to remove fuel lines), as shown in my video so as to get better access to the manifold bolts. These bolts hold both the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifold at the same time, to the head. I suggest soaking them (bolts) overnight with your favorite spray lubricant. If you do not disturb the lower intake manifold you may get by without having to buy an extra gasket. I understand that stock these exhaust manifolds were a machine fit and no gasket(for cooling). Some share a gasket with the lower intake manifold, and some may have a gasket of their own. If the manifold is stock then it is a machine fit and no gasket. Its like a box of chocolates depending what work has been done to the engine. Check your bolts (22-32 ft. lbs.) in case you have a loose bolt. However, if the leak is coming from the exhaust pipe flange (maybe loose) to exhaust manifold (there is no gasket) it may be able to be tightened. Be sure to soak those nuts very well and go slow and easy if you try to tighten them(25-35 ft. lbs.). Hope this helps. Take your time. Complete exhaust manifold, studs, nuts, and gasket are around $90 at the time of this writhing.
a locking flexhead ratchet makes this mich much easier
Late, but thankyou!
I am currently on the same journey with my 87 F150 six. Started leaking fuel profusely. It had sat a very long time. Now, a new fuel tank, tank pump assy and rail pump and filter, all new injectors o rings, fuel lines and vacuum lines. So now installing the manifold having replaced injector seals. Your vid is heling me remember where everything was:)
Thanks Robert! You have been quite busy! These are good old trucks, and with some upkeep they still provide solid service. I use my videos to remember where everything goes as well.
Excellent. Watching this as I go with same project. Thank you.
It seems like a lot to do at first. Watch those shop towels. I make one mistake and roll the engine over and they can get sucked into the intake right quick. I am going back to tea towels or bath towels to cover parts in the future, need arising.
Nice vid. Thanks for sharing
Thankyou!
Already deleted the AIR blower and adjusted for a new belt 3 years ago. Got the whole top of the engine off right now. Going with the
EGR delete. Don't have the time or money to do the full on injector replacement. But thanks to you, I can do this again in a few hours. Well done.
Watch those plastic vacuum lines. They are old and break very easily. Vacuum hose makes a decent repair.
@@SteveAZ711 Yep. Been there. Temps have been in the 70's this week. Tried something similar to this in the winter one time in Colorado. Epic fail,lol!
Great video. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Very good quality audio and video,btw.
Thanks Tom! I am never really sure on the audio sometimes, as my computer has audio issues when it comes to volume.
Thanks !
Welcome!
Nice work sir! I admire how clean you keep your parts and bolts etc.I am about to replace bolts where exhaust man meets ex pipe on my friends 95 XLT 4.9 5 spd. Has a bad exhaust smell in cabin. If that doesnt fix it maybe remove exhaust manifolds and clean or replace.
Do I need to take off intake manifold to get to below or can I somehow get ex man out thru passenger wheel well?
Her dad drove it for years but didnt keep up maintainace but rather waited for failure b4 he'd fix it...lol So has lotta rust on most bolts. It was a N Caroilna truck so body not rusted much. But ol red has some nasty looking bolts and nuts. Now that its in upstate NY she wants to refurbish it.
And also did you have to mess with any fuel lines on this intake job? Liked your rachet swivel combo trick! You will have hundreds of thousands subscribers one day!
Roger, thanks for the comment! Well, it looks like you are in for some work if the leak is coming from the exhaust manifold. Find out exactly where the leak is (usually black carbon residue around it). Use a mirror or take pics with your phone. If coming from the manifold, then
remove the upper intake manifold (no need to remove fuel lines), as shown in my video so as to get better access to the manifold bolts. These bolts hold both the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifold at the same time, to the head. I suggest soaking them (bolts) overnight with your favorite spray lubricant. If you do not disturb the lower intake manifold you may get by without having to buy an extra gasket. I understand that stock these exhaust manifolds were a machine fit and no gasket(for cooling). Some share a gasket with the lower intake manifold, and some may have a gasket of their own. If the manifold is stock then it is a machine fit and no gasket. Its like a box of chocolates depending what work has been done to the engine. Check your bolts (22-32 ft. lbs.) in case you have a loose bolt. However, if the leak is coming from the exhaust pipe flange (maybe loose) to exhaust manifold (there is no gasket) it may be able to be tightened. Be sure to soak those nuts very well and go slow and easy if you try to tighten them(25-35 ft. lbs.). Hope this helps. Take your time. Complete exhaust manifold, studs, nuts, and gasket are around $90 at the time of this writhing.
@@SteveAZ711 Thanks for the tips! Really helps.
Thank you