Awesome video buddy!! I can’t weight to see the finished project all completed and ready to tear some stuff up!! I just baught another 1981chevy 1Ton 4x4 with the Dana60 front 14 bolt full floating rear and the 205 transfer case 4 speed manual tranny combination!! Witch I think is one of the strongest factory set ups and best in my opinion with running a sbc or bbc engines!! I’ve looked for quite a while for a SRW 1Ton 4x4 and I finally found another one and got the guy to sell it to me!! The other thing is it came with another parts truck witch is a1973 2wd Dullay and had a dump box on it and got rolled!! The 1Ton 4x4 that I got has under a 100,000 original miles on it because it was an old fire truck that only went out to deliver water for field fires and barely got driven maybe at most 6 times a year other then maybe when the fairs were going on and they wanted to get it out and show it off!! I definitely can tell you the 4 speed is like brand new it is so tight shifting you can tell!! That’s the second tightest 4 speed I’ve ever had and they are definitely nice to run!!
Cool setup!! We just installed a brand new TR4050 in a 1985 K 30 dually flatbed. If your reading this comment and are considering this transmission and can handle the expense, I highly recommend it! Keep reading if you want some info on our conversion and some problems we had. We ordered the kit to replace the SM465. $4700 was the price shipped. Our truck already had the NP205 and is already hydraulic clutch. The only thing I did not like and did not use was the cheesy weak TH350 transmission mount. I honestly cant believe they designed this kit with that crappy mount for a 4x4 chevy. read all of the instructions first before applying my info. Ok now with the truck at a working hight you need to measure and note how the engine is tilted in the chassis in order to keep the alignment of your accessories and exhaust this is super important. shim or block or in some way make sure you know how the engine is tilted. now remove the Transmission and case we pulled the case first since they have to come apart anyway. Pull the seat and floorpan cover because your gonna be in and out of the cab a lot. I dont recommend using a lift if your truck is too low just use jack stands just high enough to get the job done because your gonna be up and down a whole bunch. with everything out we installed the bell housing onto the engine and checked with a dial indicator the runout it has to be .005 or less. then install the flywheel and clutch, then put the bellhousing back on the engine and measure the depth of the pressure plate fingers to check if need the extra shim behind the TOB, we did not need the extra shim. Put the bellhousing and TOB on the transmission and install the transmission into the truck. Now with the transmission on a jack and shimmed back to the correct tilt in the chassis its time to fab/fix your crossmember. we built one from a piece of heavy duty rectangle tubing and use a section of the original crossmember to maintain the factory heavy duty mounts. get this figured out and then your ready to install the transfer case and shifter . I worked with the parts in the kit and got the shifter working. then figure out your floor pan modifications becasue the shifter stub is about 3 inches back from original. In our case the rear drive line needed to be cut 5 inches we had a drive line shop do that $190 Since the front is low speed I did the work on it myself but you may need to drop both off at the shop. The transmission shifts amazing and what a difference from the clunky old sm. I hope this helps someone and if I see any questions on this commend Ill try to answer them.
that was getting too long so to add some additional info, on my cross member setup used 1 of the spacers that came with the kit, they can be cut to length with a band saw. I have the old style saddle mount isolator bushings which I prefer. I had to make a 1 inch steel spacer to bridge the original mounts then drill 4 holes and counter sink them so the bolts wouldn't interfere. I have the old style 205 with the 4 bolt yoke front output, if you have the newer flange yoke this will need consideration when fabricating the crossmember. If you have a 2 piece drive line I recommend cutting the forward part then shim the carrier bearing to minimize u joint angle problems. they sent the wrong fitting for the hydraulic lines, I ended up using a 1/8 tube union and connected the new TOB line to the original truck line and a vacuum bleeder is mandatory to get the air out.
I’m dreaming of a 1 ton square body 4x4 build. I’m rebuilding a 12 valve my son found at our local pul a part for $300! Your videos are a wealth of knowledge.
Overbuilt, within reason is definitely th4e way to go - there are people who say "I can't afford upgrades", or "it'll be fine", or whatever - my response is can you afford what happens if the part(s) fail(s) - vehicle recovery can be very expensive, even when there's no collateral damage to the vehicle. For example, those steering joints - all the steering loads are going directly through them, so fitting the strongest one can find is a smart idea - as is carrying a spare or two in the break-down kit, with the tools required to swap them out. Oh, on that, with the tapered joints, if you load the taper with a pry-bar or jack, it will increase the friction and make it easier to undo the actual nut. Don't forget a fitting front and rear for airing up the tyres when going back on higher speed roads, after airing down for soft ground.
Make a good point about the suspension. Especially now, everyone thinks you need bump stops and remote reservoir shocks. Truly only needed for prolonged/ strenuous use. Your setup is a lot more approachable
The air system is wow, the direction assisting ram is wow... The recipe you putting together is very inspiring thx! I have a little play in my direction so I'm gonna look into those HD joint you put :)
Question? I noticed on one of your other videos you have 4 gear shift levers coming out of the top of the transmission tunnel could you explain or perhaps do a short video on there purpose. I really appreciate your videos I like the squar body suburban build. Thank you
Cool thanks that really helped watching your video on np203/205 doubler... I also watched your other video on how to shift a triple shift transfer case... Thank you for all of your help ... I'm looking into buying a suburban I like what you are doing with your square body ... I was thinking of a 1995 to 1997 2500 4x4 but maybe I'll start looking into something more like yours... Thank you for your videos keep up the good work.
you have momentum! keep it up! gonna hit some more shows with mine too, and love the road trips in my cummins burb. this thing is a superstar! your's will be even better!!!
@@MerricksGarage It’s really quiet as I installed dynamat and dynaliner. I used all Gen 2 stuff, radiator, intercooler and fan assembly. It was a real fight for space. I am told that the mechanical fan is better for towing and more reliable. The latter being most important to me.
There is people looking into buying suburban square bodys on burb nation on Facebook I keep telling them to really look closely at them because there is people right now throwing a cheap lift and cheap tires on them and trying to sell it for 30k only being a halfton and might have a chrome air cleaner and valve cover on it.
One question, why did you mount the hydraulic assit steering cylinder so that the body moves instead of the shaft moving while the cylinder body staying stationary? I am using the same PSC setup but mounted the cylinder body next to my differential with the ram toward the spindle on the tie rod.
I hate to slow you down on something so cool but I'm just thinking of the first thing that came to mind. How much easier and cheaper would a 7.3 excursion have been?
I can see they're sorta rare and trucks out west get picked over and priced high. I learned to drive in a Chevy and it's all I ever had until just over a year ago when I bought myself a 1995 OBS 7.3 Powerstroke for a drivable project. I'm not going to say it's an affordable hobby but you know that although it is very fun and highly addicting and you'll know just how fun regular driving becomes with an absurd diesel before much longer. The loud cladering idle and revving it up into making boost and adding turbo noises in on top of all that and rowing your own gears, I didn't know what I was missing before and now I don't want to live without it. Best of luck and keep cracking away at what you've got going here as it's turning out amazing and you're an inspiration for all of us.
@@MerricksGarage i was just thinking that in the way you have it now, the lines will be moving back and forth as you steer which, in my way of thinking, would add stress to the lines and potentially cause them to fail quicker. Just thinking is all
I plan on doing the same thing with my 84 M1009 Blazer. I have the SM465/205. But I am having issues finding the clutch pedal assay. I was wondering what your plans are to install the clutch pedal?
Hello, I am the manufacturer of LED headlights and like your video. I want to send you products for review. I have sent you the message via email. Shall I send you the products to your given address directly?
Awesome video buddy!! I can’t weight to see the finished project all completed and ready to tear some stuff up!! I just baught another 1981chevy 1Ton 4x4 with the Dana60 front 14 bolt full floating rear and the 205 transfer case 4 speed manual tranny combination!! Witch I think is one of the strongest factory set ups and best in my opinion with running a sbc or bbc engines!! I’ve looked for quite a while for a SRW 1Ton 4x4 and I finally found another one and got the guy to sell it to me!! The other thing is it came with another parts truck witch is a1973 2wd Dullay and had a dump box on it and got rolled!! The 1Ton 4x4 that I got has under a 100,000 original miles on it because it was an old fire truck that only went out to deliver water for field fires and barely got driven maybe at most 6 times a year other then maybe when the fairs were going on and they wanted to get it out and show it off!! I definitely can tell you the 4 speed is like brand new it is so tight shifting you can tell!! That’s the second tightest 4 speed I’ve ever had and they are definitely nice to run!!
Nice collection there!!
Getting so close brother, I can't wait to see it screaming up hills on the way to our first adventure!
You and me both brother! I’m hoping to road trip it through CO in September
Can't wait to get our burbs together! Like spy vs spy
Cool setup!! We just installed a brand new TR4050 in a 1985 K 30 dually flatbed. If your reading this comment and are considering this transmission and can handle the expense, I highly recommend it!
Keep reading if you want some info on our conversion and some problems we had.
We ordered the kit to replace the SM465. $4700 was the price shipped. Our truck already had the NP205 and is already hydraulic clutch. The only thing I did not like and did not use was the cheesy weak TH350 transmission mount. I honestly cant believe they designed this kit with that crappy mount for a 4x4 chevy.
read all of the instructions first before applying my info.
Ok now with the truck at a working hight you need to measure and note how the engine is tilted in the chassis
in order to keep the alignment of your accessories and exhaust this is super important. shim or block or in some way make sure you know how the engine is tilted.
now remove the Transmission and case we pulled the case first since they have to come apart anyway.
Pull the seat and floorpan cover because your gonna be in and out of the cab a lot. I dont recommend using a lift if your truck is too low just use jack stands just high enough to get the job done because your gonna be up and down a whole bunch.
with everything out we installed the bell housing onto the engine and checked with a dial indicator the runout it has to be .005 or less.
then install the flywheel and clutch, then put the bellhousing back on the engine and measure the depth of the pressure plate fingers to check if need the extra shim behind the TOB, we did not need the extra shim. Put the bellhousing and TOB on the transmission and install the transmission into the truck.
Now with the transmission on a jack and shimmed back to the correct tilt in the chassis its time to fab/fix your crossmember.
we built one from a piece of heavy duty rectangle tubing and use a section of the original crossmember to maintain the factory heavy duty mounts. get this figured out and then your ready to install the transfer case and shifter .
I worked with the parts in the kit and got the shifter working. then figure out your floor pan modifications becasue the shifter stub is about 3 inches back from original.
In our case the rear drive line needed to be cut 5 inches we had a drive line shop do that $190 Since the front is low speed I did the work on it myself but you may need to drop both off at the shop.
The transmission shifts amazing and what a difference from the clunky old sm. I hope this helps someone and if I see any questions on this commend Ill try to answer them.
that was getting too long so to add some additional info, on my cross member setup used 1 of the spacers that came with the kit, they can be cut to length with a band saw. I have the old style saddle mount isolator bushings which I prefer. I had to make a 1 inch steel spacer to bridge the original mounts then drill 4 holes and counter sink them so the bolts wouldn't interfere. I have the old style 205 with the 4 bolt yoke front output, if you have the newer flange yoke this will need consideration when fabricating the crossmember.
If you have a 2 piece drive line I recommend cutting the forward part then shim the carrier bearing to minimize u joint angle problems.
they sent the wrong fitting for the hydraulic lines, I ended up using a 1/8 tube union and connected the new TOB line to the original truck line and a vacuum bleeder is mandatory to get the air out.
I’m dreaming of a 1 ton square body 4x4 build. I’m rebuilding a 12 valve my son found at our local pul a part for $300! Your videos are a wealth of knowledge.
Thanks man. I just wanna encourage everyone spinning wrenches out there and keep paying it forward! I appreciate the kind words.
Glad to see you back to your regular content
Overbuilt, within reason is definitely th4e way to go - there are people who say "I can't afford upgrades", or "it'll be fine", or whatever - my response is can you afford what happens if the part(s) fail(s) - vehicle recovery can be very expensive, even when there's no collateral damage to the vehicle.
For example, those steering joints - all the steering loads are going directly through them, so fitting the strongest one can find is a smart idea - as is carrying a spare or two in the break-down kit, with the tools required to swap them out.
Oh, on that, with the tapered joints, if you load the taper with a pry-bar or jack, it will increase the friction and make it easier to undo the actual nut.
Don't forget a fitting front and rear for airing up the tyres when going back on higher speed roads, after airing down for soft ground.
Make a good point about the suspension. Especially now, everyone thinks you need bump stops and remote reservoir shocks. Truly only needed for prolonged/ strenuous use. Your setup is a lot more approachable
Exactly!
The air system is wow, the direction assisting ram is wow... The recipe you putting together is very inspiring thx! I have a little play in my direction so I'm gonna look into those HD joint you put :)
thanks man! I appreciate that!
Good video sir. Will you consider doing a video on measuring your drive shafts when you get to that point.
Absolutely
Hell yes!! First to catch a Merricks video!! PUMPED up minion!!🤗🤓
Question? I noticed on one of your other videos you have 4 gear shift levers coming out of the top of the transmission tunnel could you explain or perhaps do a short video on there purpose.
I really appreciate your videos I like the squar body suburban build.
Thank you
I have a video up on it. It’s on the setup in the Blazer but same same
Cool thanks that really helped watching your video on np203/205 doubler...
I also watched your other video on how to shift a triple shift transfer case...
Thank you for all of your help ...
I'm looking into buying a suburban I like what you are doing with your square body ...
I was thinking of a 1995 to 1997 2500 4x4 but maybe I'll start looking into something more like yours...
Thank you for your videos keep up the good work.
Please go into more detail on what parts you used to bolt the tr 4040 to the motor and to the 205
Will do
@@MerricksGarage awesome thank you; I’m kinda on the fence between the nv4500 and the tr4050. Either would be a good upgrade for my 79 k20
Love the videos man! Keep up the great work! Still rocking rear seat bracket for my K5 from 3 years ago!
hell yea brother!
you have momentum! keep it up! gonna hit some more shows with mine too, and love the road trips in my cummins burb. this thing is a superstar! your's will be even better!!!
How loud is it inside? Did you run elec fans?
@@MerricksGarage
It’s really quiet as I installed dynamat and dynaliner.
I used all Gen 2 stuff, radiator, intercooler and fan assembly. It was a real fight for space. I am told that the mechanical fan is better for towing and more reliable. The latter being most important to me.
There is people looking into buying suburban square bodys on burb nation on Facebook I keep telling them to really look closely at them because there is people right now throwing a cheap lift and cheap tires on them and trying to sell it for 30k only being a halfton and might have a chrome air cleaner and valve cover on it.
What groups? I am gonna be building two more burbs after this one that are gonna be for sale
@@MerricksGarage suburban nation
Burblife probably as well
@@MerricksGarage I shared the screen shot of group on the shock picture you posted on Facebook it would not let me message it to you
Looks awesome!!
One question, why did you mount the hydraulic assit steering cylinder so that the body moves instead of the shaft moving while the cylinder body staying stationary? I am using the same PSC setup but mounted the cylinder body next to my differential with the ram toward the spindle on the tie rod.
no real reason. It doesn't really matter what the orientation is as far as I can tell
I hate to slow you down on something so cool but I'm just thinking of the first thing that came to mind. How much easier and cheaper would a 7.3 excursion have been?
almost what I bought about 7 years ago. Couldn't find one with anything under 250k miles. Plus I am a chevy guy
I can see they're sorta rare and trucks out west get picked over and priced high. I learned to drive in a Chevy and it's all I ever had until just over a year ago when I bought myself a 1995 OBS 7.3 Powerstroke for a drivable project. I'm not going to say it's an affordable hobby but you know that although it is very fun and highly addicting and you'll know just how fun regular driving becomes with an absurd diesel before much longer. The loud cladering idle and revving it up into making boost and adding turbo noises in on top of all that and rowing your own gears, I didn't know what I was missing before and now I don't want to live without it. Best of luck and keep cracking away at what you've got going here as it's turning out amazing and you're an inspiration for all of us.
Another great video! Where did you get your body Mounts? Are they normal mounts?
These are from energy suspension. They were on back order for months!! Body lift is to help with clearances all sround
Thank you I just subscribed
is the 205 a round or figure 8 case? I would have thought that mounting the ram assist cylinder the other way would be better(cylinder body at axle).
I can swap the ram around but I don’t know if it really makes a difference
@@MerricksGarage i was just thinking that in the way you have it now, the lines will be moving back and forth as you steer which, in my way of thinking, would add stress to the lines and potentially cause them to fail quicker. Just thinking is all
Do you have the part number for the adapter front the tr4050 to the 203 doubler
I plan on doing the same thing with my 84 M1009 Blazer. I have the SM465/205. But I am having issues finding the clutch pedal assay. I was wondering what your plans are to install the clutch pedal?
I just ordered from a company called three pedals. They make a clutch kit!
threepedals.com/products/hot-products/pedals-drivetrain-swaps/bowler-1973-1987-c10-squarebody-blazer-clutch-pedal-conversion-kit/
Winning!!
what size input and output shaft does the 4050 have?
For the doubler, if you just want 2:1 reduction (single low) does it matter if you put the 203 range box or the 205 in low?
Wait, American Powertrain (termec) makes a 4wd case manual?
Yup! shiftsst.com
Do you know what that np203 came out of? I'm looking for a passenger side drop with a round 6 bolt input.
I think this one was a dodge unit. Not 100% sure though
👍
Hello, I am the manufacturer of LED headlights and like your video. I want to send you products for review. I have sent you the message via email. Shall I send you the products to your given address directly?
Please do
@@MerricksGaragePlease check you email, thanks
Man I enjoy your content, but a 15 min video where you spend 2 minutes talking about the title, then 14 min of fluff ...
NP205 is better
You do realize this is a 205?
Yeah attached to a NP 203 which is weaker so it don’t really matter how strong the NP 205 is
202 vs 203 like tiny 202 175# 50# heavyer than 205 my ? Why use 2 transfer case s vs doubler in 205 alone?
How do you like the tr4050. I have a 82 w250 with a 392 stroker and I have killed 3 np435s and considering taking the plunge
I love it. 15k miles in now and its running super smooth, clutch is easy and predictable, cruises at 2100 rpm at 70 mph
oh and its towed for about 3000 of those miles