i usually do the opposite: from quickrelease to nutted :D Especially whith 6 to 7 speed freewheels (which have a much longer lever arm wrt the bearings than casettes). The quickrelease axle is just not stiff enough. They wiggle all so slightly with each pedal stroke, prematurely wrecking wheel bearings and failing in one way or another after a while. I had one too many quickrelease axles break or bend and completely gave up on them. The feel is much more solid too.
@@azsamsasho all that matters going from quick-release to solid axle is the axle diameter. Obviously you'll want a long enough axle to be able to place the outside nuts on, but that measurement is pretty forgiving.
Looking forward to seeing the finished restoration. I am fixing up my Fathers Claud Butler today (rest his heart). I cannot decide to make it an urban Fixed bike or a 1x urban Bike?
This bike needs a lot of work... I won't be touching the paint on the frame as it's still good but all the old components need an overhaul. It wasn't meant to be this big of a job... As for your fathers bike, perhaps keep it original? I don't think a retro mountain bike suits a fixed conversion personally (the Diamond Back "Frankenstein" build that's sitting behind me right now has the wrong type of dropouts). A 1x Urban bike would work. It would probably only shave a few hundred grams off the weight but it should be nice to cruise around on. I feel like building another fixed gear now actually...
I have to say it seems 'Cluad butlers' always seems to be used to the point where all the components require replacing! However the frame and paint lasts the course of time. Although it could be a blessing in disguise as we both can start from scratch. A 1x system, new wheels, seat etc should make the bike fly, I just cannot believe how light Retro frames are? With it being 11kg rather than 15kgs etc. The bike model is a 'Hammer xl', I cannot find when it was made, but it looks 1995esk (I would love to find out). I have to thank you for your channel, I would have never have thought to restore/Improve the bicycle without your inspiration. Just an Idea/requests, could viewers send in photos/30 sec videos of and Bike restoration projects with the before and after? Upgrades etc? It would be interesting to see in a video montage. So thank you again, In the future I be sure to let you know if I went 1x or to the dark side and made it Singlespeed. Hopefully I haven't tempted you to a retro/modern upgrade single speed combo 😃.
The problem with this bike is more like it hasn't been used :( Saying that though... I have discovered the crank arms are a set that should have been recalled in 1997... yikes. It's quite hard to find information about retro CB bikes it seems! Brochures from the 90's are hard to come by but you can usually tell a rough date from any Shimano components. They always have a date code stamped on them. You're more than welcome. I enjoy tinkering and sharing. Now I am trying to get a bit of social media set up and linked together so once that's done I'll post it all up and you could get sharing projects there etc? Sound like a plan?
MonkeyShred Could I ask for your option/advice? After a good clean and ride, I have noticed that being 6ft 2 on a 20 inch frame is a little cramped. Would you call this a lost cause and try for another bike, or can you get really long and tall quill stem? ( I could not find a Mtb fork with a 1 inch riser (to fit new new headset and a long stem).
20" is quite a large frame for a mountain bike! Well for a modern one anyway. My 2017 is a Medium and that's a 17". My two "retro" ones are in the garage all locked up so I can't compare them for size right now. Anyway, I digress... Is it the reach that is a problem for you? Do you know the length of the stem as is?
Good video man. I have an old frame with modern accesories, very similar to yours, but sometimes i have problems with the quick relase of the rear wheel, the rear axle moves a little sometimes when im riding because this dont fit exactly in the dropouts, like in your frame, do you have the same problem maybe? Maybe there´s a part to correct this, im returning to riding after years.
Gotta have tools anyway to fix a flat so what is the real advantage? Looking like a raceboy? weight? Like Nadia says, It's not as strong. Maybe with a nut cover The look is smoother. I use IGH so I need the wrench anyway.
i am trying to do this now. my bike is older and the axle doesnt sit into the back of the drop outs. if i put a qr on, how do i know how far to pull the wheel backwards??how do you know in general how far to pull the wheel back. i could make the chain too long and pull it to far past the derailleur. do i just shorten the chain til it shifts ok 1 link at a time from the back of the drop out ? at the end of the video i can see your drop out is the same as mine. how do you determine the gap behind the qr into the back of the drop out????
Good question. The frame there didn't have a hanger built in so the derailleur usually attaches with an adapter and those usually have a little lug on the back which fits in to the dropouts . Just pull the wheel until it's at the back of that adapter usually.
horizontal dropouts suck. what I've done is on one bike, I "made" it a vertical dropout by drilling axle-sized holes, then sawing up to edges of the holes. On another bike, I was able to bolt in those little metal bars with 4 holes; it works just fine. Point is, you'll have to do some "figgerin" to use a QR in a horizontal dropout and not have the wheel pull out.
Here's a quick question: if it is ok to convert a nut wheel to quick release one, is it also possible to just buy a new qr wheels and mount them directly (given that Over lochnut distances are good)?
I don't understand why you wouldn't just buy a new tire/rim? they really aren't expensive. This is a whole lot of work, for such little reward. More work then just keeping the old fixed axel, and carrying a wrench with you.
Not the work you suggest, really. You need to maintain your axle/hubs. Clean/inspect and repack bearings. You really don't ride much do you. Trow away and by new. Fucking millennials
Good videos. I was initially confused to hear the term "mils" to actually mean "millimeters." A mil is a thousandth of an inch. Coming from Canada, I use both metric and Imperial. Because of your English accent, I thought because you were really talking about true mils. Bit annoying. Could you use the proper terms?
I mean, a thousandth of an inch is usually referred to as a thou in my books. I always here thou used in videos I watch too. Mil to describe a thousandth just seems off. I'll stick to mils for millimetres, everyone does it.
In usual parlance in the UK, we would use 'mill' to imply millimetre and 'thou' for thousandth of an inch - guess it is just different on each side of the pond
Please speak more slowly and clearly. Some of the key words you say, you say them lightning fast, leaving out some of the sounds in the words! I know this is an English thing, like David Niven, but we non-Brits just can't make out words like "ritul" and "we need ta juska." The phrase "Inavam's 9.5" is Swahili to us. SLOW DOWN please!! What's the rush?
I don't really speak particularly fast but I understand the frustration. I'm learning other languages and if everyone could just slow it down to a snails pace it would be much easier to learn!
Really you do speak some words very fast, leaving out some of the sounds in the words. We often have foreign pastors give the sermons in our church, and they often make the same mistake. They need to slow down and pronounce each word. Accent + slurring = non-comprehension. I've done a test. After some of the sermons, I've asked some people if they understood. I get answers like "Not very well," "About half," and "Almost nothing!" I'm sure the pastors are thinking, like you do, that everyone understood them. We are not good judges of our own voices.
awesome vid!
Thanks!
I usually insert the axle with loose nuts that way you can easily adjust the extrusion of the axles.
i usually do the opposite: from quickrelease to nutted :D Especially whith 6 to 7 speed freewheels (which have a much longer lever arm wrt the bearings than casettes). The quickrelease axle is just not stiff enough. They wiggle all so slightly with each pedal stroke, prematurely wrecking wheel bearings and failing in one way or another after a while. I had one too many quickrelease axles break or bend and completely gave up on them. The feel is much more solid too.
Can you share to conversion process? Thank you
@@azsamsasho all that matters going from quick-release to solid axle is the axle diameter. Obviously you'll want a long enough axle to be able to place the outside nuts on, but that measurement is pretty forgiving.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing the finished version
Me too! Hopefully it'll be done this weekend (if the last couple of replacement parts turn up...)
Yes, it's a cassette. Early Shimano HG 30-6 11-24t.
I think the alu spacer and the steel is going to bond. Put some grease in there, or oil?
Thanks very much!! really helpful.
You’re welcome.
Great video mate very informative 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers Shaun
Good video!...love that English accent!
Looking forward to seeing the finished restoration. I am fixing up my Fathers Claud Butler today (rest his heart). I cannot decide to make it an urban Fixed bike or a 1x urban Bike?
This bike needs a lot of work... I won't be touching the paint on the frame as it's still good but all the old components need an overhaul. It wasn't meant to be this big of a job... As for your fathers bike, perhaps keep it original? I don't think a retro mountain bike suits a fixed conversion personally (the Diamond Back "Frankenstein" build that's sitting behind me right now has the wrong type of dropouts). A 1x Urban bike would work. It would probably only shave a few hundred grams off the weight but it should be nice to cruise around on.
I feel like building another fixed gear now actually...
I have to say it seems 'Cluad butlers' always seems to be used to the point where all the components require replacing!
However the frame and paint lasts the course of time. Although it could be a blessing in disguise as we both can start from scratch. A 1x system, new wheels, seat etc should make the bike fly, I just cannot believe how light Retro frames are? With it being 11kg rather than 15kgs etc. The bike model is a 'Hammer xl', I cannot find when it was made, but it looks 1995esk (I would love to find out).
I have to thank you for your channel, I would have never have thought to restore/Improve the bicycle without your inspiration.
Just an Idea/requests, could viewers send in photos/30 sec videos of and Bike restoration projects with the before and after? Upgrades etc? It would be interesting to see in a video montage.
So thank you again, In the future I be sure to let you know if I went 1x or to the dark side and made it Singlespeed.
Hopefully I haven't tempted you to a retro/modern upgrade single speed combo 😃.
The problem with this bike is more like it hasn't been used :( Saying that though... I have discovered the crank arms are a set that should have been recalled in 1997... yikes.
It's quite hard to find information about retro CB bikes it seems! Brochures from the 90's are hard to come by but you can usually tell a rough date from any Shimano components. They always have a date code stamped on them.
You're more than welcome. I enjoy tinkering and sharing.
Now I am trying to get a bit of social media set up and linked together so once that's done I'll post it all up and you could get sharing projects there etc? Sound like a plan?
MonkeyShred Could I ask for your option/advice? After a good clean and ride, I have noticed that being 6ft 2 on a 20 inch frame is a little cramped. Would you call this a lost cause and try for another bike, or can you get really long and tall quill stem?
( I could not find a Mtb fork with a 1 inch riser (to fit new new headset and a long stem).
20" is quite a large frame for a mountain bike! Well for a modern one anyway. My 2017 is a Medium and that's a 17". My two "retro" ones are in the garage all locked up so I can't compare them for size right now. Anyway, I digress...
Is it the reach that is a problem for you? Do you know the length of the stem as is?
Now i know i can put a quick release skewer on my bike
Heck yeh you can.
Good video man. I have an old frame with modern accesories, very similar to yours, but sometimes i have problems with the quick relase of the rear wheel, the rear axle moves a little sometimes when im riding because this dont fit exactly in the dropouts, like in your frame, do you have the same problem maybe? Maybe there´s a part to correct this, im returning to riding after years.
did you put a 10 mm diameter axle to change the 9.6 solid axle? any problem with bearings/cone ?
I used the cone nuts that were supplied with the new axle and new bearings so no issues
how does it work doing it the other way round? find the length and diameter of the QR axle and scale up the length slightly?
Gotta have tools anyway to fix a flat so what is the real advantage? Looking like a raceboy? weight? Like Nadia says, It's not as strong.
Maybe with a nut cover The look is smoother. I use IGH so I need the wrench anyway.
My front wheel thru Axel lock is broken. I can't remove Axel for it. I did not found any videos about that contains on UA-cam .plz make it for us..
I don't have anything with that situation so I can't, sorry.
i am trying to do this now. my bike is older and the axle doesnt sit into the back of the drop outs. if i put a qr on, how do i know how far to pull the wheel backwards??how do you know in general how far to pull the wheel back. i could make the chain too long and pull it to far past the derailleur. do i just shorten the chain til it shifts ok 1 link at a time from the back of the drop out ? at the end of the video i can see your drop out is the same as mine. how do you determine the gap behind the qr into the back of the drop out????
Good question. The frame there didn't have a hanger built in so the derailleur usually attaches with an adapter and those usually have a little lug on the back which fits in to the dropouts . Just pull the wheel until it's at the back of that adapter usually.
horizontal dropouts suck. what I've done is on one bike, I "made" it a vertical dropout by drilling axle-sized holes, then sawing up to edges of the holes. On another bike, I was able to bolt in those little metal bars with 4 holes; it works just fine.
Point is, you'll have to do some "figgerin" to use a QR in a horizontal dropout and not have the wheel pull out.
Can you let me know where you purchased that measurement tool please thanks 👍
eBay. Digital Calipers. There's loads of them.
front wheel..?? nice one ill surely convert it
Any wheel - go for it!
front fork should it be specific..
I cannot find the right length for my rear axle they are all too short where can I find longer ones?
My dropout is 6" and I can only find 5.7"
Your dropout is 150mm wide?? For most old mountain bikes it should be 135mm
@@MonkeyShred Its a newer 2016 Huffy FAT TIRE 26"
Here's a quick question: if it is ok to convert a nut wheel to quick release one, is it also possible to just buy a new qr wheels and mount them directly (given that Over lochnut distances are good)?
Of course!
Hey Monkey ! Pun intended. Grinding and drilling is effective, and less bs
Do you have any idea what is the size of axle for a 4" fat bike?
Sorry Moazum, I don't. I haven't had chance to ride a fat bike yet.
Do you know what size axle I need for my Denali road bike
moazum khan dude just measure instead of asking others it's easy enough a 5 year old could do it
@@jamesflemon6975 just measure the the axle it's way to easy
Where did you get the axle? Link?
eBay
It looks like a Wheel master axle.
Where is the chain whip? Free hubs are not seized like yours.
Freehubs can get seized.... depends if they were left outside to rot or not.
Just did mine I hate bolts
I get way too many compliments on my nuts to entertain the idea of changing anything.
I don't understand why you wouldn't just buy a new tire/rim? they really aren't expensive.
This is a whole lot of work, for such little reward. More work then just keeping the old fixed axel, and carrying a wrench with you.
Not the work you suggest, really. You need to maintain your axle/hubs. Clean/inspect and repack bearings. You really don't ride much do you. Trow away and by new. Fucking millennials
This is a much much cheaper alternative if you're trying to keep it as cheap as possible
9- 1/4 " ball bearings are required. Go back and fix that.
I must have miscounted removing both sides. Unfortunately I don't have a time machine to go back to that point though.
Good videos. I was initially confused to hear the term "mils" to actually mean "millimeters." A mil is a thousandth of an inch. Coming from Canada, I use both metric and Imperial. Because of your English accent, I thought because you were really talking about true mils. Bit annoying. Could you use the proper terms?
I mean, a thousandth of an inch is usually referred to as a thou in my books. I always here thou used in videos I watch too. Mil to describe a thousandth just seems off. I'll stick to mils for millimetres, everyone does it.
In usual parlance in the UK, we would use 'mill' to imply millimetre and 'thou' for thousandth of an inch - guess it is just different on each side of the pond
Please speak more slowly and clearly. Some of the key words you say, you say them lightning fast, leaving out some of the sounds in the words! I know this is an English thing, like David Niven, but we non-Brits just can't make out words like "ritul" and "we need ta juska." The phrase "Inavam's 9.5" is Swahili to us. SLOW DOWN please!! What's the rush?
I don't really speak particularly fast but I understand the frustration. I'm learning other languages and if everyone could just slow it down to a snails pace it would be much easier to learn!
Really you do speak some words very fast, leaving out some of the sounds in the words. We often have foreign pastors give the sermons in our church, and they often make the same mistake. They need to slow down and pronounce each word. Accent + slurring = non-comprehension.
I've done a test. After some of the sermons, I've asked some people if they understood. I get answers like "Not very well," "About half," and "Almost nothing!" I'm sure the pastors are thinking, like you do, that everyone understood them. We are not good judges of our own voices.