Thanks Graham for following along, Its been a long time since I was through your neck of the woods, Glad your getting some good out of these videos, if nothing else some entertainment.
Hey Dale, good fix as always. There always seems to be something not quite right with aftermarket parts. That's why I like new old stock but it's getting harder to find. You have plenty of thread engagement so no safety issues to worry about, but as you say you shouldn't have to. Still, us machine aficionados get to watch another great lathe video! Take care, Dean.
Thanks Dean, getting feedback from others sounds like its a common problem and they are not interested in fixing the issue. Yes Im with you, NOS is best but sure hard to come by these days. Yeah I think everything is just fine with the solution. Dean you are always looking at the bright side. Yes some good lathe footage. I just think a lot of people really are not interested in the machining aspect of the channel. Then at other times it looks like they are. Im confused. Guess I will just keep pressing on .
Dale i totally agree with your assessment of why after market parts often have issues,but i think its because of the original OEM part they use as a pattern is the original problem. all the OEM parts can be made by different vendors and can be off on tolerances. i read once that a 1967 Comaro Chevy fender made in California factory is slightly different than a fender made in Michigan factory. so even then some massaging was needed on the assembly line.
Yes I have heard those same stories about the various auto plants, GM and Ford. I think in this case they just didnt counterbore deep enough, Monday Friday badday, who knows, but its always the end user that pays the price, TWICE!
@@montana2strokeracer hear ya! they probably should add more threads just in case. hope they have enough sense to listen to your advice if you contact them. your a good customer they would be smart to give you something to make it right and you could give them a shout out on the tube. actually would not hold my breath.
On the 68-69 DT1 250 Dachi fork tubes the cap doesn't screw all the way down either. But what's odd is with the factory tubes on the bike the caps don't screw all the way down either. but there is a still a 1mm difference where the threads start in the tubes.
Hi Sky, it has been a while since I did that video, I will have to go back and take a look at it. I just remember that I had several comments about pretty much all of the tubes not seating. Lots of folks contacted DC plastics about it but they didn't get any answers. Some of the folks cut the caps down to fit. I just felt better about my solution, but there are plenty of threads on the cap so it couldn't be a problem. Always more than one way to skin a cat.
@@montana2strokeracer Dale, come to find out the 68-69 DT1 caps do not sit flush to the fork tube by design because there is a step up in the top triple tree. I check the stock tube as well as the Dachi tube with the cap. The fork tube butts up to a small step in the triple tree then the cap screws on and sandwiches the clamp where the gap is. Yours for the RT2 were definitely machined wrong because there is no step up for it to butt up against. Maybe Dachi did this by mistake on the later fork tubes because of the earlier design does have a gap and step up?
For those of us who don't have access to a lathe, I wonder if you can just put an o-ring in place of the washer that you made to take up the space? At least it would keep moisture out?
I suppose you could, but you won't be able to tighten the fork caps. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Measure the OD of the tube (34mm) and take the cap to a machine shop and have them make two washers 34mm OD, 2mm thick and whatever is needed to fit the cap. I prefer peace of mind, and safety over "sure it will work."
Great stuff as always. Dale for my CT3 forks what would you recommend for fork oil. I am thinking fork oil as opposed to the recommended motor oil and wondering about the weight. Thanks
Hi David and thank you. Fork oil is the right thing to use. The motor oil that is in the manuals was before fork oil was invented. Fork oil is much better and doesn't foam and the viscosity is better. It depends on how you're going to ride, temperature and your weight. I usually use 20 wt. on these old machines, but I don't ride hard anymore, and I run about 190 lbs. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hey Dale, I'm gonna stick my foot in here. I scanned but didn't see it mentioned. In the re-assembly you show putting the spacer on top of the spring and then the "centering" washer-ish item, followed by top cap / bolt. In the parts manual it looks to me (and I think I remember from dis-assembly) the centering washer-ish item goes on top of the spring followed by the spacer and cap / bolt. Does that make sense? or does it not really matter? Thanks Dale... You Rock!
Hey David, I had to go back and look, yes that is what I did, I'm betting that is how I took it apart. You are correct the center should go in first followed by the spacer. I can't see that it will hinder the operation, but it might be noisy. Next time I have that bike in the shop I will swap it. Thanks
@@montana2strokeracer really I wanted to make sure I was going back correctly. Got me a pair of those Dachi tubes. Same o same o nothing has changed. My insides were burr free but the cap is still about 2mm short of a snug fit. Thanks Dale
If you go back and read some of the comments on that video, lots of the same, and many called to complain, and they were told it would be fixed. Never has to my knowledge.
Hi Dale like I said I've purchased 5 sets every set had the same problem. I modified my caps To fit. I've mentioned it to DC And my friends that used their forks mentioned it to them you would think they would fix this problem.
I guess there is no need of me calling them. Sounds like they just dont care. I was sure I was the only one that had problems with them. Nice to hear Im not the only one. But its sucks for anyone having to deal with the issue.
Dale I had the same Problem With the top caps not screwing all the way down I've mentioned it to DC Surprise they haven't fixed this problem I've purchased over 5 sets now but where can you find this quality this quality for $200
Sure wish you were my neighbor Dale. I suppose moving your shop to Thailand isn't going to happen. Thankfully, your videos help a lot.
Thanks Graham for following along, Its been a long time since I was through your neck of the woods, Glad your getting some good out of these videos, if nothing else some entertainment.
Hey Dale, good fix as always. There always seems to be something not quite right with aftermarket parts. That's why I like new old stock but it's getting harder to find.
You have plenty of thread engagement so no safety issues to worry about, but as you say you shouldn't have to. Still, us machine aficionados get to watch another great lathe video!
Take care, Dean.
Thanks Dean, getting feedback from others sounds like its a common problem and they are not interested in fixing the issue. Yes Im with you, NOS is best but sure hard to come by these days. Yeah I think everything is just fine with the solution. Dean you are always looking at the bright side. Yes some good lathe footage. I just think a lot of people really are not interested in the machining aspect of the channel. Then at other times it looks like they are. Im confused. Guess I will just keep pressing on .
Great video, Dale. Always enjoy seeing your machine work.
Thanks Peter, I really enjoy the machine work part of this. I am however not a machinist, but having fun trying hard to get stuff done.
Welcome back Dale.
Thanks for being here Larry.
Nice job dale, like they way your videos provide an answer to problems, 👍
Thanks Pat, never a dull moment here. Thanks for following along.
Love the lathe work. Bought me a cheap Chinese one after watching your video's.
Thats great Greg, I use mine almost everyday, bet you will too. Have fun with it.
Well at least you were able to fix the problem. Thanks for sharing brother.
Getting feedback from others, I guess this is a common problem and they are not interested in fixing the problem. Thanks for watchin.
Very creative solution! Once again......I need a lathe. Perhaps someday!
Thanks brother, I use mine every day, good tool to have.
Dale i totally agree with your assessment of why after market parts often have issues,but i think its because of the original OEM part they use as a pattern is the original problem. all the OEM parts can be made by different vendors and can be off on tolerances. i read once that a 1967 Comaro Chevy fender made in California factory is slightly different than a fender made in Michigan factory. so even then some massaging was needed on the assembly line.
Yes I have heard those same stories about the various auto plants, GM and Ford. I think in this case they just didnt counterbore deep enough, Monday Friday badday, who knows, but its always the end user that pays the price, TWICE!
@@montana2strokeracer hear ya! they probably should add more threads just in case. hope they have enough sense to listen to your advice if you contact them. your a good customer they would be smart to give you something to make it right and you could give them a shout out on the tube. actually would not hold my breath.
great video dale u nailed it
Thanks Mark, appreciate you following along.
On the 68-69 DT1 250 Dachi fork tubes the cap doesn't screw all the way down either. But what's odd is with the factory tubes on the bike the caps don't screw all the way down either. but there is a still a 1mm difference where the threads start in the tubes.
Hi Sky, it has been a while since I did that video, I will have to go back and take a look at it. I just remember that I had several comments about pretty much all of the tubes not seating. Lots of folks contacted DC plastics about it but they didn't get any answers. Some of the folks cut the caps down to fit. I just felt better about my solution, but there are plenty of threads on the cap so it couldn't be a problem. Always more than one way to skin a cat.
@@montana2strokeracer Dale, come to find out the 68-69 DT1 caps do not sit flush to the fork tube by design because there is a step up in the top triple tree. I check the stock tube as well as the Dachi tube with the cap. The fork tube butts up to a small step in the triple tree then the cap screws on and sandwiches the clamp where the gap is. Yours for the RT2 were definitely machined wrong because there is no step up for it to butt up against. Maybe Dachi did this by mistake on the later fork tubes because of the earlier design does have a gap and step up?
For those of us who don't have access to a lathe, I wonder if you can just put an o-ring in place of the washer that you made to take up the space? At least it would keep moisture out?
I suppose you could, but you won't be able to tighten the fork caps. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Measure the OD of the tube (34mm) and take the cap to a machine shop and have them make two washers 34mm OD, 2mm thick and whatever is needed to fit the cap. I prefer peace of mind, and safety over "sure it will work."
Actually, I guess you can bottom out the threads, but I still wouldn't do it.
Great stuff as always. Dale for my CT3 forks what would you recommend for fork oil. I am thinking fork oil as opposed to the recommended motor oil and wondering about the weight. Thanks
Hi David and thank you. Fork oil is the right thing to use. The motor oil that is in the manuals was before fork oil was invented. Fork oil is much better and doesn't foam and the viscosity is better. It depends on how you're going to ride, temperature and your weight. I usually use 20 wt. on these old machines, but I don't ride hard anymore, and I run about 190 lbs. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hey Dale, I'm gonna stick my foot in here. I scanned but didn't see it mentioned. In the re-assembly you show putting the spacer on top of the spring and then the "centering" washer-ish item, followed by top cap / bolt. In the parts manual it looks to me (and I think I remember from dis-assembly) the centering washer-ish item goes on top of the spring followed by the spacer and cap / bolt. Does that make sense? or does it not really matter?
Thanks Dale... You Rock!
Hey David, I had to go back and look, yes that is what I did, I'm betting that is how I took it apart. You are correct the center should go in first followed by the spacer. I can't see that it will hinder the operation, but it might be noisy. Next time I have that bike in the shop I will swap it. Thanks
@@montana2strokeracer really I wanted to make sure I was going back correctly. Got me a pair of those Dachi tubes. Same o same o nothing has changed. My insides were burr free but the cap is still about 2mm short of a snug fit.
Thanks Dale
If you go back and read some of the comments on that video, lots of the same, and many called to complain, and they were told it would be fixed. Never has to my knowledge.
Hi Dale like I said I've purchased 5 sets every set had the same problem. I modified my caps To fit. I've mentioned it to DC And my friends that used their forks mentioned it to them you would think they would fix this problem.
I guess there is no need of me calling them. Sounds like they just dont care. I was sure I was the only one that had problems with them. Nice to hear Im not the only one. But its sucks for anyone having to deal with the issue.
Alright, Dachi it is. I'll have to see my local machine shop for the washers if they haven't fixed the problem.
Jack read through the comments here. Others had the same problem. They had mentioned it to DC plastics and it has never been fixed.
made it, Frank.
Always know your going to make it.
Dale I had the same Problem With the top caps not screwing all the way down I've mentioned it to DC Surprise they haven't fixed this problem I've purchased over 5 sets now but where can you find this quality this quality for $200
Wow, really thats BS that they wont fix them. You are right though its still a good price.
First word is correc 'Diaci'
Thank you, and thank for following the channel