This video really helped me, what a PITA this thing is to replace. accelerator pedal & painters tape ideas were very helpful. (considered swapping right hand to left arm)... Nice to have blower control again, Thanks.
Thank you so much! This was a perfect tutorial for the job. Removing the accelerator pedal was a huge tip, and the hint about painters tape to secure the screw was vital. I used a straight t20 screwdriver, no flex or angle needed, but I definitely would have lost the screw without the painters tape.
Thanks for the tips. I would not have even tried this without them. I can't get up under the dash like I used to so removing the front seat helped me a lot. You pretty much have to see with your fingertips on this job. Took me about an hour due to the difficulty lining the new resistor tuck tab.
Fixed my fan not working on 1 and 2.. Great video!!! I removed pedal and i had the proper tools. Getting the old one out no problems. Getting the new one in was another story. To make sure the tab on the part goes in properly was a living hell. It took 5 hours with breaks for my back pain. Also i have manual control. I was kneeling outside and laying on my back. I did it but i wont do it again If i had known what i know now. I would have taken it to the shop..
Wow thank you for posting. I would add soft pillow for comfort. Took about 10 minutes after removing the accelerator pedal (a must) all by feel, completely blind removal, with the right tools.
Success! The most difficult part was getting the tab on the new part into the slot. After failing on the install, I disconnected the harness allowing me to install the part. It was not difficult to plug in the harness after that. I did remove the accelerator pedal for the install (didn't need to for removing the old part. Ford wanted $440 - I did it for $44. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial. Took me about 1 hour to replace. Use of painter tape is top notch. I did use T20 straight driver with accelerator pedal removed. Also disconnected accelerator pedal with harness.
This is an amazing video and I probably would have had to take this to a shop if it didnt exist. I did fine with just a regular socket set. Took about an hour just from sweating and having to let my fingers rest from cramping up.
Thank you, you really helped me, I didn't have any trouble getting it out, and took little more to put back in, and the painter's tape was great idea although I had to use duct tape, "if you can't fix it, duct it" as it is said.
Although I am not left handed, or do I have the hand of a five year old, I was luckily able to change the part without breaking it... or anything else while completely relieving the core memory of my helping my father work on his car except now I was my father and my tools were the 3 yr old I was cursing under my breath at. 😂😂😂 Thank you for the tutorial. It was immensely helpful. Ps yes the tape idea was great until it slipped off the bit due to sweat and I had to fight the tape to get the screw back out to start from scratch. I'm glad I have a good sense of humor so I can laugh at myself now or I might have broken something lmfao
Great video! I was honestly surprised that you can actually see the wiring harness for the resistor. My resistor was for the base model and honestly, I could not see the wiring harness till I unscrewed the T20 screw. Also, I lost my T20 screw when I first changed mine and I just used a regular small Phillips screw to replace it. I would also recommend running a quick ac test after plugging the new resistor into the harness to make sure it works as sometimes, these resistors can arrive as one of mine did when it came from Amazon. If you do run a quick test, the resistor will become hot so after you power it down, give it a few minutes before handling it.
That is an excellent tip on testing and the heat- thanks Lucien! Makes sense as the resistive side is inserted into the main duct for air to cool it. Appreciate your insight!
Thanks for the feedback, Rodney! Yeah the angles in this one can really twist you around, but once you know what you're actually reaching for, it's not too bad. Glad you could use the video!
Thanks a lot for the encouragement! Hope it was helpful and give a shout if there's anything else that you may have questions about or would like to see!
Not sure if this would help but get two iPhones, face time each of them and face the one at the t20 bolt and use the other one as a guide to watch your socket
Chiropractor appointment after install is recommended. I did this on my moms car earlier this year with the Ford part. I used electrical grease for connector to hopefully stave off her calling me again to repeat replacement anytime soon :p.
I can absolutely relate to what you're saying. Thats why we suggest taking off the accelerator pedal assembly. It gives you a bit more wiggle room and it's only 2 small nuts. Glad you were able to get it done
It really should be. The screw holds it in place 100% and the inside face of the resistor/module needs to be exposed to the internal airflow temp of the hvac system rather than be half in half out if it were to pop free while driving
I have a 2014 ford escape titanium 2.0 ecoboost and I am having a problem when you open the doors the exterior lights will come on but when you let it sit for 20 mins and open the door they don't come in and the switch is in automatic mode but then the lights work in every other mode what could be the problem
Hey i was curious if you can do a quick video on something ASAP! I have my passenger door window seal broken from someone breaking in. I have the new part to replace it but i dont know how to make it go in properly. Can you do a quick comment so i can get this done before it rains? I have a '14 Escape SE. a comment will work if fastest
Hey there, Michela- when you say a seal, are you talking about the actual rubber that lines the entire window perimeter or are you just talking about the base of the window where there is the flat/straight cosmetic outer trim? Sorry that happened- hopefully we can help- it's dark out right now though, so probably not tonight unfortunately :/
Is it this piece here? www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-run-channel-driver-s-side-lh-cj5z7825767a?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ICZBhAzEiwAFfvFhMdYYLu8kXQ63P8GahUjOGIcKixzLjIUfturEzKimQwkmcjMf6K-ChoCQUAQAvD_BwE
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews it should be the entire seal, it looks like the window with a little extra triangle. I have the part number: CJ5Z 7821596 B
@@kaynnect Ok, so I looked it up- thanks- and I also went out to look at our '13 Escape SE. It doesn't appear that the seal can just be pulled off or pressed back in- without spending a whole lot of time on investigating, my GUESS is that the side mirror would need to come off (we have a video for that), the lower outer chrome moulding MIGHT need to come off (we also have a video for that), and then the glossy panel where there's nothing (compared to where the keyless entry pad is on the driver's side). It may NOT be that complex, but it does look like the rubber gasketing is squeezed and held on pretty tightly. I can look into it more for you hopefully this week, but I wish I could've had a better answer for you tonight. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, Michela!
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews no worries! when they broke in, they also broke that plexiglass side piece so i have both ready to go. I already know the trim, im just nervous about the mirror. mainly about the electric parts!
I’ve read some things about blower motor replacement. Although you see it right there after the control module is removed, it apparently takes around 7 hours to access, install and put everything back in place if you’ve never done it before
Alright- thanks for the heads up- ill see what i can do tonight to balance everything. Appreciate you letting me know- it didn't appear unbalanced when editing but it clearly is.
So I just looked into it a bit- I can tell that the intro and outro title clips are a bit louder- but the rest was still audible on medium settings on both my laptop and UA-cam- can you please share which areas (~timestamps) are hard to hear? Thanks for the assistance
I have found a way to make sure my future imports to UA-cam are in good shape. Thanks for the heads up- the future vids will be much better balanced and equalized in audio.
This video really helped me, what a PITA this thing is to replace. accelerator pedal & painters tape ideas were very helpful. (considered swapping right hand to left arm)...
Nice to have blower control again, Thanks.
Thank you so much! This was a perfect tutorial for the job. Removing the accelerator pedal was a huge tip, and the hint about painters tape to secure the screw was vital. I used a straight t20 screwdriver, no flex or angle needed, but I definitely would have lost the screw without the painters tape.
Ford engineers really went the extra mile making this one easy for us…. Thanks for the help with this. Solved my issue (fan only working on 3 & 4)
Thanks for the tips. I would not have even tried this without them. I can't get up under the dash like I used to so removing the front seat helped me a lot. You pretty much have to see with your fingertips on this job. Took me about an hour due to the difficulty lining the new resistor tuck tab.
Same here, I did job in stages, took some breaks to control frustration.
Fixed my fan not working on 1 and 2.. Great video!!! I removed pedal and i had the proper tools. Getting the old one out no problems. Getting the new one in was another story. To make sure the tab on the part goes in properly was a living hell.
It took 5 hours with breaks for my back pain.
Also i have manual control.
I was kneeling outside and laying on my back.
I did it but i wont do it again
If i had known what i know now. I would have taken it to the shop..
Wow thank you for posting. I would add soft pillow for comfort. Took about 10 minutes after removing the accelerator pedal (a must) all by feel, completely blind removal, with the right tools.
Success! The most difficult part was getting the tab on the new part into the slot. After failing on the install, I disconnected the harness allowing me to install the part. It was not difficult to plug in the harness after that. I did remove the accelerator pedal for the install (didn't need to for removing the old part. Ford wanted $440 - I did it for $44. Thank you!
Great straight forward video. Well done. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial. Took me about 1 hour to replace. Use of painter tape is top notch. I did use T20 straight driver with accelerator pedal removed. Also disconnected accelerator pedal with harness.
Great tutorial on this! Really well put together and straight forward directions. This really helped me out!
Awesome David, that's great to hear!!! What symptoms were you seeing to know it was the resistor?
The tip on getting the torx screw back in worked like a charm
This is an amazing video and I probably would have had to take this to a shop if it didnt exist.
I did fine with just a regular socket set. Took about an hour just from sweating and having to let my fingers rest from cramping up.
Thank you, you really helped me, I didn't have any trouble getting it out, and took little more to put back in, and the painter's tape was great idea although I had to use duct tape, "if you can't fix it, duct it" as it is said.
Great video! Despite this video this project sucks! I couldn't have done it without it.
Although I am not left handed, or do I have the hand of a five year old, I was luckily able to change the part without breaking it... or anything else while completely relieving the core memory of my helping my father work on his car except now I was my father and my tools were the 3 yr old I was cursing under my breath at. 😂😂😂 Thank you for the tutorial. It was immensely helpful.
Ps yes the tape idea was great until it slipped off the bit due to sweat and I had to fight the tape to get the screw back out to start from scratch. I'm glad I have a good sense of humor so I can laugh at myself now or I might have broken something lmfao
This is the best tutorial on this job, thank you for posting this. Would have been able to do it without your input
thanks for listing the part number, that helped me find the correct one!
Great video!
I was honestly surprised that you can actually see the wiring harness for the resistor. My resistor was for the base model and honestly, I could not see the wiring harness till I unscrewed the T20 screw. Also, I lost my T20 screw when I first changed mine and I just used a regular small Phillips screw to replace it.
I would also recommend running a quick ac test after plugging the new resistor into the harness to make sure it works as sometimes, these resistors can arrive as one of mine did when it came from Amazon. If you do run a quick test, the resistor will become hot so after you power it down, give it a few minutes before handling it.
That is an excellent tip on testing and the heat- thanks Lucien! Makes sense as the resistive side is inserted into the main duct for air to cool it. Appreciate your insight!
Thank you very much. It was complete and so useful.👍
You're welcome! Happy to help!
This helped a ton. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, Rodney! Yeah the angles in this one can really twist you around, but once you know what you're actually reaching for, it's not too bad. Glad you could use the video!
Nicely done video. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks a lot for the encouragement! Hope it was helpful and give a shout if there's anything else that you may have questions about or would like to see!
Not sure if this would help but get two iPhones, face time each of them and face the one at the t20 bolt and use the other one as a guide to watch your socket
I suppose the Blower motor itself Is a crazy pain huh?
Clear and concise.
You are a god. Thank you
Lol not at all, but hope the video saved you some time! God is indeed good :)
Excellent! Thank You!
Chiropractor appointment after install is recommended. I did this on my moms car earlier this year with the Ford part. I used electrical grease for connector to hopefully stave off her calling me again to repeat replacement anytime soon :p.
I can absolutely relate to what you're saying. Thats why we suggest taking off the accelerator pedal assembly. It gives you a bit more wiggle room and it's only 2 small nuts. Glad you were able to get it done
What are the symptoms of a failing resistor?
Does it need to be screwed back in? I think it’d be fine just shoving it back in there.
It really should be. The screw holds it in place 100% and the inside face of the resistor/module needs to be exposed to the internal airflow temp of the hvac system rather than be half in half out if it were to pop free while driving
Very nice video, thank you
Awesome video! I did a sweat 😅
I have a 2014 ford escape titanium 2.0 ecoboost and I am having a problem when you open the doors the exterior lights will come on but when you let it sit for 20 mins and open the door they don't come in and the switch is in automatic mode but then the lights work in every other mode what could be the problem
Very well said
Hey i was curious if you can do a quick video on something ASAP! I have my passenger door window seal broken from someone breaking in. I have the new part to replace it but i dont know how to make it go in properly. Can you do a quick comment so i can get this done before it rains? I have a '14 Escape SE. a comment will work if fastest
Hey there, Michela- when you say a seal, are you talking about the actual rubber that lines the entire window perimeter or are you just talking about the base of the window where there is the flat/straight cosmetic outer trim? Sorry that happened- hopefully we can help- it's dark out right now though, so probably not tonight unfortunately :/
Is it this piece here? www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-run-channel-driver-s-side-lh-cj5z7825767a?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ICZBhAzEiwAFfvFhMdYYLu8kXQ63P8GahUjOGIcKixzLjIUfturEzKimQwkmcjMf6K-ChoCQUAQAvD_BwE
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews it should be the entire seal, it looks like the window with a little extra triangle. I have the part number: CJ5Z 7821596 B
@@kaynnect Ok, so I looked it up- thanks- and I also went out to look at our '13 Escape SE. It doesn't appear that the seal can just be pulled off or pressed back in- without spending a whole lot of time on investigating, my GUESS is that the side mirror would need to come off (we have a video for that), the lower outer chrome moulding MIGHT need to come off (we also have a video for that), and then the glossy panel where there's nothing (compared to where the keyless entry pad is on the driver's side). It may NOT be that complex, but it does look like the rubber gasketing is squeezed and held on pretty tightly. I can look into it more for you hopefully this week, but I wish I could've had a better answer for you tonight. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, Michela!
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews no worries! when they broke in, they also broke that plexiglass side piece so i have both ready to go. I already know the trim, im just nervous about the mirror. mainly about the electric parts!
Can you show how to do the blower motor itself?
I’ve read some things about blower motor replacement. Although you see it right there after the control module is removed, it apparently takes around 7 hours to access, install and put everything back in place if you’ve never done it before
Did this and replace all the fuses and replace the blower motor itself and still get nothing.
rplaced heater motor and resistor blower turns on and goes off
Hmm thats strange. Even in full manual hvac mode? Wondering if that could be the auto climate control with the tstat maybe acting up too?
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Did not fix my issue.
Shoot- sorry to hear that- what issue are you experiencing? What's your year and trim Escape?
Man, sound is terribly adjusted. Do something with this.
Alright- thanks for the heads up- ill see what i can do tonight to balance everything. Appreciate you letting me know- it didn't appear unbalanced when editing but it clearly is.
So I just looked into it a bit- I can tell that the intro and outro title clips are a bit louder- but the rest was still audible on medium settings on both my laptop and UA-cam- can you please share which areas (~timestamps) are hard to hear? Thanks for the assistance
I have found a way to make sure my future imports to UA-cam are in good shape. Thanks for the heads up- the future vids will be much better balanced and equalized in audio.
❣️ ρяσмσѕм