Your education is priceless. I've been able to turn my attention off of the NPK numbers on the front of the bag and look in to the actual ingredients in the fertilizer. I'm learning the difference between quality ingredients and cheap ingredients. Lower salt index vs higher salts. Thank you Matt. You're perfect for the professional and the seasoned DIY'er that's looking for the details on how to dial in their turf.
Matt please help me improve my soil hard clay I had 1/2 if top soil and milorganite and Love your soil by Jonathan Green what else is needed. Thank you
incredibly helpful info on the HOW. I"m sure you intentionally did not say WHAT to use (it depends) but would be nice to know your thoughts on products that will have the best plant availability performance.
Ever heard of compost tea it contains all the bacteria and fungi that work with the plant and release the micro nutrients from the soil. All plants will react to the soil conditions in combination to the amount of light they get from the sun. putting extra in the soil may cause an overdose and shut the grass down or at least make it sick.
This is extremely valuable information Matt. Thanks for posting it. This reminds me of my organic chemistry journey with home brewing. Science + skill = Art
Excellent Explanation Mr. Martin! This is great information as most people just do not understand the science behind what they are applying. Guilty here with over use of some Micro's (Iron Mostly) now armed with the knowledge that if micros are not properly chelated I will not be applying and looking for a different chelation methods that is available to the plant. As always I appreciate your teaching! Kind of reminds me of the Saturday morning skits from years ago "The More You Know" I may be dating myself, LOL! With much respect! Peace and God's Love! Chad Upstate NY
The visual presentation of mixing in jars really helps augment the great information provided. Well five or six years ago when I was sick of the lawn I was taking care of- a thick black Chicagoland clay - I nuked it for morbid with gypsum in an attempt to make the clay more porous as pertains to drainage of water and for easier plant root penetration. It was a few years ago that I read that too much gypsum in the soil combined with the phosphorus and make an non-soluable phosphate which I can't remember the name of. NHowever, I do not see evidence of a lack of phosphorus in the soil and the soil test I took 2 years ago indicates plenty of phosphorus. But one of the main guys I've been watching on UA-cam pretty much uses the Express Pak micronutrients. He credits this as a key success to his lawns as his day-job is a lawn technician. I struggle mightily just to get the PH down to seven from 7.2 when the soil tests were taken 2 years ago. I am further cursed and afflicted with alkaline tap water which measured 8.4 on the same soil tests. I throw a pound of sulfur, Epsoma organic type, with absolute impunity if I have to water with the tap. The lawn looks so much better after a decent rainfall relative to an inch of tap watering. Just last night I sprayed some Miracle-Gro azealia acidic fertilizer on the lawn. This was my poor man's way of trying to get some micronutrients onto the grass. Certain things like boron are not in my normal foliar Miracle-Gro lawn food. And finally: I tried that ironite by Pennington-I guess I could chalk it up to the alkaline soil but the richness and color never really overwhelmed me and it certainly didn't last very long. I bought more expensive chelated iron supplement but it's either too cold or too hot to use it with these crazy weather days.
Great minds think alike. 🤔 I went down the micronutrient rabbit hole this morning. I'm really wanting to understand those better. After all, you saw my soil test. 🤦🏽♂️
Very informative - convinced my spouse after soil test the reason for our conditions, nutirients and PH way off (poor lawn conditions, well irrigation rust stains our fence, etc.) treatments in abundance and not specific to lawn needs. Different grasses and conditions. Performed recommended counter actions and hoping for recovery over the coming months.
@@TheGrassFactor you have the a7 iii right? Use the HLG3 picture profile and throw on the leeming lut and it will look amazing, if you need the lut i can email it to you
Interesting and I would like to know how to use micronutrients on my lawn but this was way too technical for me (and I'm sure for many people) Be curious to know who you believe your audience is?. It's not your average homeowner who is very interested in improving his lawn.
I’ve been asking why with high iron levels in my soil, why does iron apps still produce a flush of green. I suspected it’s just not available to the plant but wanted to know why. Thank you.
Matt are you going to be doing videos on your Subvert product line anytime soon? I had amazing results with your CarbonX and since its gone I really want to try your Subvert products, but there is a lot more to go through and some direction on what to use and when would be great.
I am loving your videos. Thanks for explaining the science behind what we do to our lawn. Looking forward to your future videos. I currently spray 4 oz/M iron (II) sulfate along with 3.4 oz/M ammonium sulfate and Trinexapac-ethyl for growth regulation and improved color. What would you recommend I add to chelate the iron and how much should I add?
AMS is acidic, so you're getting a partial chelation of ferrous ammonium sulfate, so likely unnecessary. If you have high pH soil, you can add citric acid.
Extremely informative Matt!! Have you ever shared a product list that provide best results (given the varied efficacy of dif products)? I know it’s extremely relative to individuals’ soil/needs... There are so many ‘programs’ and opinions. Any that you prefer or support? TifTuf Bermuda DIY’er from Atl area here. Keep up the great work!!
On that note...what is the micro product we should be applying and how often, based on perfect soil test data? Does SUBVERT have the ingredients that are most available to the plants?
Great information. So once our Soil test on Micronutrients are in a good range then I don’t need to apply a separate Micro nutrient supplement above and Beyond?
So what would you recommend to use for lowering your PH? I put down 2 apps of Magi-cal for alkaline soil last year and my PH is higher this year. Plus my calcium and magnesium are really high. PH 7.2 SE Michigan cool season grass
Hi Matt, I know I'm late on this, but is there absolutely no way I can get a bag of Carbon X? I have a lot of less than 1000 square feet. I've had the bag I have for 2 1/2 seasons and it is the best. I can't imagine me using anything else. If you see my soil test you will know why. If I can't get Carbon X can you tell me what fert is closest to it in your expert opinion. Please and thank you.
FYI Matt If you already didn’t know....the audio of your voice during the Intro section is only in the Left speaker with a little bit of music in the right.
Hi Matt - thanks for posting this video. I just put down an application of 4% fulvic acid and 8% humic (about 10 oz/1000 sq ft) followed immediately by another 10 oz/1000 application with 5% Fe, 2.2% Mn, and 0.25% Mg (all chelated) and 2.75% Sulfur, followed by a light watering. I called the manufacturer before I did it to ask if I could apply both at the same time, they said Yes. They also said not to mix the products in the same sprayer, at the same time because they would react to form some sludge and clog the sprayer….. your video of makes me wonder if these products shouldn’t be mixed afterall. Any chance they would mix in my soil and become non-available? This was my first time trying these products..... the micronutrient product did not contain any phosphorus.
@@TheGrassFactor The product label does not say anything about chelation method. The only other technical info on the label says “Derived from Urea, Iron Glucoheptonate, Manganese Glucopheptonate, Magnesium Glucoheptonate, and Sulfur Glucoheptonate. The product also had 6% N. I’m not sure if that helps answer the chelation method question or not. I just noticed the website says don’t mix with other products. I checked my actual bottle, and it had no such instruction. Any chance that the Humic I applied didn’t get ruined? At least I got some practice with my hose end sprayer!
@@johnklein2856 Glucoheptonate are relatively stable with humic so actually not as concerned. I was expecting a citrate or a lignosulfonate which could have been trouble, but Glucoheptonate is a good fit for that application if applied separately
What about iron with a sugar chelation such as sodium glucohephanate? Stable to like 9ph and prevents micros from oxidation? *Edit* nevermind. Commented before the end of the video. Haha
In simple terms, use something that’s readily available for your grass and soil to digest.. Non synthetics to start. I mostly stay away from products that are not healthy for my lawn.
If i applied a bunch of oxides, but my soil pH is on the high end, should I stop applying and focus on lowering the pH? Will applying citric acid help unlock the nutrients in the soil? Would I need to keep applying a nitrogen source or just pause all fertilization until the pH is lowered?
I would continue to apply nitrogen, and focus on lowering your soil pH. Ammonium sulfate is an acidifying N source. Citric acid will help solublize inputs that have oxidized or formed insoluble compounds due to pH. Nitrogen is more affected by volatility (loss) in high pH soil, it is not "locked up" thus why you must continue applying it.
Do you have low pH or high pH? Low pH (less than 5.5), apply minors like iron sulfate, manganese sulfate. 5.5-8 - apply EDTA chelates (EDTA Iron, EDTA manganese, etc).if greater than 8,apply EDDHA iron, etc.
@@TheGrassFactor oh wow. Thanks for the reply. I did a DIY soil test in april and had a 5 pH approximately. Added a ton of lime and a bit of fast acting lime. Did the mail in soil test last week and got a 5.21 and all my micro nutrients are low except sodium zinc and copper which are all at the bottom of the scale.
@@brinkman4925 if you can find a sulfate micronutrient mix, that would be your best bet. Spray it, don't spread it. if they're decent quality, they're soluble. Drop in water, shake, and spray . Stay away from oxides or oxysulfates.
Hey David - Don't beat yourself up! I try not to because I have a lot to learn about turf maintenance, besides, I'm married and I have my wife to beat me up, that's her job! i think the lesson here is some micronutrients are OK, but not to over do it. Ideally, we'd do a soil test before applying product. If not, maybe we only apply micro's once a year or every other? The micronutrient product I bought this spring says to apply once a month!!! That runs counter to Matt's advice for sure based on how much iron grass can really use.
Couldn't guarantee it but it COULD be a possibility. There's a purpose and a method to each active. Applying them for purpose and function guarantees no guess work accidents... Easier said than done, I am guilty of it myself!
Coming up soon, a 2021 update on pre-emergent herbicides and what science is now showing!
Random question... are you originally from New Jersey?
@@michaelg589 Memphis, TN!
You’ve got my curiosity peaked now!
Labels are expanding! Looking forward to it!
Great info, we need to boil this down to sixth grade level with some visual product examples. Product A good, product B think twice.
Your education is priceless. I've been able to turn my attention off of the NPK numbers on the front of the bag and look in to the actual ingredients in the fertilizer. I'm learning the difference between quality ingredients and cheap ingredients. Lower salt index vs higher salts. Thank you Matt. You're perfect for the professional and the seasoned DIY'er that's looking for the details on how to dial in their turf.
Thank you sir!
Matt please help me improve my soil hard clay I had 1/2 if top soil and milorganite and Love your soil by Jonathan Green what else is needed. Thank you
As a chemist, this all makes a lot of sense. Solubility is important, chelation is key!! Great video
incredibly helpful info on the HOW. I"m sure you intentionally did not say WHAT to use (it depends) but would be nice to know your thoughts on products that will have the best plant availability performance.
Ever heard of compost tea it contains all the bacteria and fungi that work with the plant and release the micro nutrients from the soil. All plants will react to the soil conditions in combination to the amount of light they get from the sun. putting extra in the soil may cause an overdose and shut the grass down or at least make it sick.
This was really informative. Cleared up a lot of questions that I had about oxides vs chelates. Felt like I was in a classroom. Great video!
This is extremely valuable information Matt. Thanks for posting it. This reminds me of my organic chemistry journey with home brewing.
Science + skill = Art
Excellent Explanation Mr. Martin! This is great information as most people just do not understand the science behind what they are applying. Guilty here with over use of some Micro's (Iron Mostly) now armed with the knowledge that if micros are not properly chelated I will not be applying and looking for a different chelation methods that is available to the plant. As always I appreciate your teaching! Kind of reminds me of the Saturday morning skits from years ago "The More You Know" I may be dating myself, LOL! With much respect! Peace and God's Love! Chad Upstate NY
Alot to unpack in this one. Definitely will be watching this a couple of times. Thank you !
Dude, you are the Yoda of fertilizer. This engineer is enjoying your teachings!
The visual presentation of mixing in jars really helps augment the great information provided.
Well five or six years ago when I was sick of the lawn I was taking care of- a thick black Chicagoland clay - I nuked it for morbid with gypsum in an attempt to make the clay more porous as pertains to drainage of water and for easier plant root penetration.
It was a few years ago that I read that too much gypsum in the soil combined with the phosphorus and make an non-soluable phosphate which I can't remember the name of. NHowever, I do not see evidence of a lack of phosphorus in the soil and the soil test I took 2 years ago indicates plenty of phosphorus.
But one of the main guys I've been watching on UA-cam pretty much uses the Express Pak micronutrients. He credits this as a key success to his lawns as his day-job is a lawn technician.
I struggle mightily just to get the PH down to seven from 7.2 when the soil tests were taken 2 years ago. I am further cursed and afflicted with alkaline tap water which measured 8.4 on the same soil tests. I throw a pound of sulfur, Epsoma organic type, with absolute impunity if I have to water with the tap. The lawn looks so much better after a decent rainfall relative to an inch of tap watering.
Just last night I sprayed some Miracle-Gro azealia acidic fertilizer on the lawn. This was my poor man's way of trying to get some micronutrients onto the grass. Certain things like boron are not in my normal foliar Miracle-Gro lawn food.
And finally: I tried that ironite by Pennington-I guess I could chalk it up to the alkaline soil but the richness and color never really overwhelmed me and it certainly didn't last very long. I bought more expensive chelated iron supplement but it's either too cold or too hot to use it with these crazy weather days.
Great minds think alike. 🤔
I went down the micronutrient rabbit hole this morning. I'm really wanting to understand those better. After all, you saw my soil test. 🤦🏽♂️
Thanks for clarifying the different forms of micros and availability to the turf
Very informative - convinced my spouse after soil test the reason for our conditions, nutirients and PH way off (poor lawn conditions, well irrigation rust stains our fence, etc.) treatments in abundance and not specific to lawn needs. Different grasses and conditions. Performed recommended counter actions and hoping for recovery over the coming months.
Look at that dynamic range, footage lookin good man!
You should have that backround on your livestream, it looks great:)
I just painted it, it's coming soon 😂
@@TheGrassFactor you have the a7 iii right? Use the HLG3 picture profile and throw on the leeming lut and it will look amazing, if you need the lut i can email it to you
@@PrincessCutLawnCare sir! I am a grass guy. I have NO idea what you're talking about 😂
@@TheGrassFactor lol alright alright, well the dark paint is a good start!
Thanks for the information. Will have to watch a few more times to see how this applets to my St.Aug.
Great video, Matt. I'm going to watch it a few more times to try to absorb as much info as possible.
Awesome, thank you!
Interesting and I would like to know how to use micronutrients on my lawn but this was way too technical for me (and I'm sure for many people) Be curious to know who you believe your audience is?. It's not your average homeowner who is very interested in improving his lawn.
I’ve been asking why with high iron levels in my soil, why does iron apps still produce a flush of green. I suspected it’s just not available to the plant but wanted to know why. Thank you.
I’m going to need to watch this more than once! Heavy stuff, chemical man!
When will that 18-18-18 fert be available?
Matt are you going to be doing videos on your Subvert product line anytime soon? I had amazing results with your CarbonX and since its gone I really want to try your Subvert products, but there is a lot more to go through and some direction on what to use and when would be great.
Im impressed how you tell the story. Great content as always. Definitely need to watch this clip a few times before it sticks!!
Awesome info
I am loving your videos. Thanks for explaining the science behind what we do to our lawn. Looking forward to your future videos.
I currently spray 4 oz/M iron (II) sulfate along with 3.4 oz/M ammonium sulfate and Trinexapac-ethyl for growth regulation and improved color. What would you recommend I add to chelate the iron and how much should I add?
AMS is acidic, so you're getting a partial chelation of ferrous ammonium sulfate, so likely unnecessary. If you have high pH soil, you can add citric acid.
@@TheGrassFactor Thank you sir. What should I use if I switch to urea?
You can use a synthetic acid like Eximo @ Sigma Organics. It's non toxic, non burning
I'm a huge fan of the word exudate
I like my Matt like I like my Micros
Wish you would recommend brands/products to help guide us noobs!
Extremely informative Matt!! Have you ever shared a product list that provide best results (given the varied efficacy of dif products)? I know it’s extremely relative to individuals’ soil/needs... There are so many ‘programs’ and opinions. Any that you prefer or support? TifTuf Bermuda DIY’er from Atl area here. Keep up the great work!!
Interesting. Thank you.
Thanks Matt!! That was very informative!
On that note...what is the micro product we should be applying and how often, based on perfect soil test data? Does SUBVERT have the ingredients that are most available to the plants?
Not sure if I should be examining my vitamin bottle labels or the fertilizer bag labels. Maybe both LOL
You'll notice notices about taking iron supplements and tums too close together (ferrous sulfate + calcium carbonate)
Great information. So once our Soil test on Micronutrients are in a good range then I don’t need to apply a separate Micro nutrient supplement above and Beyond?
I have a great ph in some areas6.7 others are terrible and the summer heat will kick those areas butts! Of only 5.7
LOL was not expecting to see my friend Pete in your video 😂
I learned all this at Trugreen.
Me too 😂
And I took my classes at chem lawn at night
Heisenturf bringing it raw and uncut.
He's not the only one who brings it raw and uncut..
Awesome!
That black layer at the end scared me. So how long and how much stuff does it take to create something like that?
Opinion on n-ext microgreen? And their sea kelp ?
N-Ext Microgreen is stabilized with Citric Acid - That's a good approach!
So does adding acetic acid help in making micronutrients more soluble in solution?
@@joshthompson401 if they're in the sulfate form, it will help protect the solubility, yes
I had to upgrade. Thanks man.
Very cool! Thank you!!
Rely on soil biology. Nice video. Good info.
So what would you recommend to use for lowering your PH? I put down 2 apps of Magi-cal for alkaline soil last year and my PH is higher this year. Plus my calcium and magnesium are really high. PH 7.2
SE Michigan cool season grass
Hi Matt,
I know I'm late on this, but is there absolutely no way I can get a bag of Carbon X? I have a lot of less than 1000 square feet. I've had the bag I have for 2 1/2 seasons and it is the best. I can't imagine me using anything else. If you see my soil test you will know why. If I can't get Carbon X can you tell me what fert is closest to it in your expert opinion.
Please and thank you.
This is great! Taking us to school!
FYI Matt
If you already didn’t know....the audio of your voice during the Intro section is only in the Left speaker with a little bit of music in the right.
Is there a realistic point where you get too much S? Because of ammonium sulfate I end up running more surfer than P or K.
Will liquid micros correct a soil deficiency?
That was money
Hi Matt - thanks for posting this video. I just put down an application of 4% fulvic acid and 8% humic (about 10 oz/1000 sq ft) followed immediately by another 10 oz/1000 application with 5% Fe, 2.2% Mn, and 0.25% Mg (all chelated) and 2.75% Sulfur, followed by a light watering. I called the manufacturer before I did it to ask if I could apply both at the same time, they said Yes. They also said not to mix the products in the same sprayer, at the same time because they would react to form some sludge and clog the sprayer….. your video of makes me wonder if these products shouldn’t be mixed afterall. Any chance they would mix in my soil and become non-available? This was my first time trying these products..... the micronutrient product did not contain any phosphorus.
100% they reacted in the soil and are not available. What is the chelation method of the minors you applied?
@@TheGrassFactor The product label does not say anything about chelation method. The only other technical info on the label says “Derived from Urea, Iron Glucoheptonate, Manganese Glucopheptonate, Magnesium Glucoheptonate, and Sulfur Glucoheptonate. The product also had 6% N. I’m not sure if that helps answer the chelation method question or not. I just noticed the website says don’t mix with other products. I checked my actual bottle, and it had no such instruction. Any chance that the Humic I applied didn’t get ruined? At least I got some practice with my hose end sprayer!
@@johnklein2856 Glucoheptonate are relatively stable with humic so actually not as concerned. I was expecting a citrate or a lignosulfonate which could have been trouble, but Glucoheptonate is a good fit for that application if applied separately
😳...😎... I’m pumped!
I know it has nothing to do with the video but can prodiamine control virginia buttonweed?
No sir
@@TheGrassFactor so, what's the surefire type of pre-emergent used to control it?
@@samuelasamoah6906 I don't believe there is one. it's also mostly perennial. Might want to check label for isoxaben
is well water better than city water for having a dark lawn
It varies by the composition of your waters TDS. Both city and well water can both be detrimental to a lawn's color.
If a Fertilizer has iron oxide, copper oxide, manganese oxide and zinc oxide will it be plant available? Or is this a filler to help sell the product?
it is not plant available
What about iron with a sugar chelation such as sodium glucohephanate? Stable to like 9ph and prevents micros from oxidation?
*Edit* nevermind. Commented before the end of the video. Haha
It's good! High foliar availability, but once in the soil the chelation is very short lived
@@TheGrassFactor supposedly, iron products with this type of chelation is the best there is. 🤓🤷
@@schaeferlawncarepropertyma4898 Yessir
I JUST NEED TO KNOW what’s going on with Carbon Earth Co.. Matt, are you not producing ferts anymore?
Video coming soon
@Matt, would you consider subvert MFT a waste of money if you were spoon feeding?
It's stabilized with an acid and amino acids. Not a good soil application. Purely foliar play.
This reminds me of Chemistry class. I was a poor chemistry student.
In simple terms, use something that’s readily available for your grass and soil to digest.. Non synthetics to start. I mostly stay away from products that are not healthy for my lawn.
I barely passed Chemistry. Hated it as well.
If i applied a bunch of oxides, but my soil pH is on the high end, should I stop applying and focus on lowering the pH? Will applying citric acid help unlock the nutrients in the soil? Would I need to keep applying a nitrogen source or just pause all fertilization until the pH is lowered?
I would continue to apply nitrogen, and focus on lowering your soil pH.
Ammonium sulfate is an acidifying N source.
Citric acid will help solublize inputs that have oxidized or formed insoluble compounds due to pH.
Nitrogen is more affected by volatility (loss) in high pH soil, it is not "locked up" thus why you must continue applying it.
@@TheGrassFactor thanks for the reply!
Mind blown
Maybe I'm slow but, what products do you actually think would work. My soil test showed extremely low micro nutrients.
Do you have low pH or high pH? Low pH (less than 5.5), apply minors like iron sulfate, manganese sulfate. 5.5-8 - apply EDTA chelates (EDTA Iron, EDTA manganese, etc).if greater than 8,apply EDDHA iron, etc.
@@TheGrassFactor oh wow. Thanks for the reply. I did a DIY soil test in april and had a 5 pH approximately. Added a ton of lime and a bit of fast acting lime. Did the mail in soil test last week and got a 5.21 and all my micro nutrients are low except sodium zinc and copper which are all at the bottom of the scale.
@@brinkman4925 if you can find a sulfate micronutrient mix, that would be your best bet. Spray it, don't spread it. if they're decent quality, they're soluble. Drop in water, shake, and spray . Stay away from oxides or oxysulfates.
@@TheGrassFactor thanks man. I really appreciate it 🙏
@@TheGrassFactor this is extremely informative. Thank you for this information.
So is it even worth using micro nutrients?
Why does your end credits have a picture of Ryan Knorr?
Ohhhhh I saw Ryan's announcement 👍
Yeah...Permagreens!!!
So everything in my garage and on its way here is probably useless🤦🏻♂️
Hey David - Don't beat yourself up! I try not to because I have a lot to learn about turf maintenance, besides, I'm married and I have my wife to beat me up, that's her job! i think the lesson here is some micronutrients are OK, but not to over do it. Ideally, we'd do a soil test before applying product. If not, maybe we only apply micro's once a year or every other? The micronutrient product I bought this spring says to apply once a month!!! That runs counter to Matt's advice for sure based on how much iron grass can really use.
Wish I could mute the music...
I guess I won’t be getting crazy with micros anymore. Might be why my zoysia looks like shit
Couldn't guarantee it but it COULD be a possibility. There's a purpose and a method to each active. Applying them for purpose and function guarantees no guess work accidents... Easier said than done, I am guilty of it myself!
Not first
Grass factor 1 - GCF 0
GCF chelates with citric acid and puts their micro packages together well in my opinion!