You haven't seen a hatchet handle like this (no power tools)
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- I recently snapped the handle on my hatchet so I decided to make an even better handle to replace it.
I built this handle out of laminated layers of poplar, cherry, and walnut. These aren't usually the best woods for hatchet and axe handles (like hickory or ash) but the lamination process makes them stronger.
I carved this handle entirely with hand tools, no electrons were harmed in the making of this piece. The rough shape of the handle was achieved with a crosscut saw and a chisel, then fine tuned it with a spokeshave and rasp. I fit the head of the axe with a maple wedge, hammered and glued in place.
This hatchet took only a few hours to make and should last a lifetime, especially since I mostly use it to carve spoons!
00:00 - Intro
00:29 - Laminating layers
01:24 - Defining the shoulder
02:19 - Fitting the head
03:14 - Rough handle shaping
04:46 - Preparing to wedge
05:15 - Wedging the head in place
05:45 - Applying finish
05:55 - Glamor shots
Thanks for watching. Feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts, and don't forget to subscribe if you like content like this!
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What do you think makes a stronger axe handle? Solid straight-grained hickory/ash, or five layers of laminated straight-grained weaker woods like poplar, cherry, and walnut?
@Mikey! Thanks for the info Mikey, good point about baseball bats! And, I love that idea for the next video; you rock!
Well, orange osage would probably be the strongest and can take an absurd beating, but it's rarer and expensive, maybe not a lot of shock absorption...but it has ridiculous strength and flexibility. Why it's used in English longbows.
But ash is used in tools and weapons (halberds and spears, ash was the go-to material because of the flexibility at length while maintaining strength) for a reason and hickory is used in MLB bats for a reason. I'd say ash is better for me because I have more access to it since I have many on my property, but hickory is a bit harder and pretty affordable in the US. Hickory is touch better in hard striking tools like hammers and axes. Either are great.
The laminate will be fine and is strong. Skateboard decks use maple laminate quite a bit, but delamination can occur and it will start separating with heavy use if not sealed properly. Moisture wicking will expand things at different rates and it can cause it to split.
Fantastic project though. Looks great and will probably serve quite well. When doing a woodworking project, I just ask myself "am I enjoying the work?", "am I making something worth the time, materials and effort?" and "did I gain knowledge or experience from the work?" I'd say you hit all three quite well.
@@Pandemos Awesome Pandemos thanks for the knowledge!! I really appreciate your last paragraph. I definitely feel like I hit all three of those notes. Thanks again!
Poplar isn’t a weak wood though.. I still think all three combo is giga.
@dkbuilds...I use hickory (and ash) because there is an abundance of those woods in my area. I treat all of my handles with boiled linseed oil (3 coats after they're installed, another coat in 30 days, and another 150 days later and then once yearly therafter) and keep them maintined with the oil, never letting them dry out.
I'd worry about delamination but if you maintain a tight finish on your new handle I think you'll be proud for a long time.
LMAO...I loved it when you "jumped" the head on and then looked at the camera...PRICELESS...!!!
I don't like modern tool handles but rather traditional...When students ask I tell them to make it the way you did...and they look at me funny...LOL...then ask why...???...I "like" traditional. but hands down the strongest (and I break lots of handles over the last 40 years of traditional woodworking) are laminated because you have complete control over getting proper wood grain orientation...These "laminated" handles have also been made traditionally as well...then I like putting"leather braided wrap" on them for a positive and cushioned grip...You did great with this handle thanks for sharing it...
LOL thanks JC! So glad to hear that based on your experience laminated handles are stronger, that's a relief! I'll consider adding a leather braided wrap on this one too. Thanks for watching and commenting!
A nice built video and not this rubbish of shorts. Many thanks for sharing
Thanks so much for watching and commenting Guenther!
Love the ending! 🌲🪓
Thanks CK!
Grand dad 'whittled' many an Axe handle, many were perfectly balanced works of art & function.
Same here with my grand dad! I'm hoping one day to be a grand dad myself, whittling axe handles 😊 Thanks for sharing Robert!
One thing I'd suggest when working with an axe head is putting tape over the live edge until you reshape and sharpen so you don't risk cutting yourself. Axe heads should be shaving sharp with a convex edge (I use a belt, just easier than stones).
Very good tip Pandemos, you are absolutely right. I even have a leather cap for the hatchet which buttons on -- I could have used that!
What the hell are you talking about you rookie? SHAVING SHARP? You know the more sharpened the edge, the faster it becomes blunt or it can even chip out? All you internet specialists. THAT IS AN AXE, IT IS USED TO CHOP WOOD, NOT TO SHAVE, IT'S NOT A RAZOR. Axe edge has angle bigger than A DAMN KNIFE, TO SPLIT THE DAMN WOOD. IT'S NOT USED TO CUT. EVEN LUMBERJACKS INTENTIONALLY NOT SHARPEN THEIR AXES TO BE SHAVING SHARP BECAUSE THE AXE GETS STUCK MORE OFTEN IN THE WOOD. USE YOUR HEAD YOU AMERICAN.
@@davejohnson1760 you're a rookie, kid. It's shaving sharp on a convex edge. If you're grinding V's, thats why you're having issues, you just don't know what you're doing. Shaving sharp isn't edge angle alone. Axes are used for more than just splitting wood, buddy. Get a maul if that's what you want to do and need a single-use tool. A sharper blade doesn't make it stick (in fact, you want it to bite so it doesn't deflect), the blade geometry and poor technique is what makes it stick, you obviously don't know what you're talking about, even if you think all caps makes you smarter.
You think the edge is what is making it stuck in a log? Really? You think the edge is what is splitting the wood? You sure it doesn't have anything to do with the head's geometry? The edge bites and helps with penetration, the head geometry dictates how well it splits. Which isn't the same geometry for optimum chopping for all angles or uses.
Spend a few summers in Oregon felling, building and living with it as a primary tool, then get back to me when you've actually done work. Sharper tools are more efficient. Don't be dull, son.
From Mors Kochanski himself in 1987,
"The inexperienced and occasional users who are more prone to accidents in the first place, often fail to appreciate the importance of a keen edge. All woodworking tools, including axes, should be sharp enough to shave with for effortless, efficient and enjoyable work. Most new axes require from an hour to a half a day of hand sharpening to put them into proper shape. A dull axe is less efficient and more tiring to use. It is also a greater hazard as it glances more readily. An axe should be sharpened on a regular basis, perhaps with every half-hour of use or each time a tree is cut down. A minute spent on sharpening may shorten your chopping time by 5 minutes."
Beautiful Job, Dave. You're gonna look stylish while chopping stuff up. Sneaky sneak with the glue. Love it.
LOL thanks Don!! Always glad to see comments from you!
I just love the way you do the woodworking. I love that neat working bench and the great tool cabinet that you made. Thank you for making these videos.
Thank you so much for the kind words Behzad! I'm glad you like the videos, I will keep making more!
As always, it's great to see your videos. One suggestion for you. Next time, you should smooth/round the "shoulders" because a square shoulder will definitely create leverage forces that will become in a loose joint. Greetings from Mexico!
Awesome, thank you so much Gibran that makes total sense, I agree with you. Thanks for sharing!
Beautiful, man! Really fantastic work! 😃
My father was watching with me here and kept talking that we need to buy one as well... 😂
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That's awesome that you watched with your dad MC. Thanks for the comment, always love seeing you in the comment section. Stay safe with your family too!
A perfect handle for that hatchet - but also digging that perfect-handle screwdriver!
Hell yeah! That was grandpa DK's screwdriver. Unfortunately it definitely doesn't like being pounded on with a hammer -- might have to replace the wooden bits soon (which I'm actually kind of looking forward to trying).
Nice! And the sequence of the wedge is genial 😄😄😄
Lol, thanks Duke!!
I appreciate nice hand tool work. It turned out great
Thanks so much Bradley!
Always enjoy doing smaller tasks with no power tools. The handle came out great! You should look into getting a draw knife down the road, it opens up a lot of interesting shapes without using the bandsaw.
Thanks for the tip Matt! I'd love to have a draw knife ... the next time I see one at a yard sale it's mine 😇
Sweet! Great craftsmanship, and great video!
Thanks so much Marc, I appreciate the comment!
Turned out very nice. Liked this style of video presentation.
Thanks so much Pinta, I appreciate the feedback!
Nice build! The handle looks great.
Thanks so much Kevin!
Beautiful
Thank you Hassan!
Love that, I have a same project that I need to do.
Hell yeah! Glad you liked it. Let me know how your handle turns out!
That wedge will never come out…..Ever!
Good video DK! When do you plan on using it besides for spoons?
Haha thanks Gary! I use it for spoons, and I take it camping to prep firewood, but that's about it 😅
need to make a handle for my axe - never thought about laminating so i’ll have to give it a try!
Awesome! Let me know how it turns out!
Anche se non lascio quasi mai commenti, devo dire che è bello vedere i tuoi lavori e la serenità con cui li fai. Volevo chiederti, quali sono le pialle di base che bisogna avere per fare la maggior parte dei lavori? Oltre alla Stanley, che vedo che adoperi, altre marche che consigli?
Grazie per aver dedicato del tempo a commentare! Se dovessi scegliere solo due aerei, sarebbe un aereo jack 5 1/2 (il mio è di Wood River, anche Stanley e Lie Nielsen sono buoni) e un aereo router (qualsiasi compagnia, puoi persino crearne uno tuo). Quelle due pialle la capacità di affilare le lame risolveranno la maggior parte dei problemi!
Actually the smoother a surface is the less adhesion the glue will have so while it may have a better appearance, it will not bond as firmly. Score the center of your laminates with 80-120 grit emory cloth (sandpaper) or a good rasp. I make and restore smithing hammers, framing hammers, axes, martial weapons, and pole axes.
Thanks rich! I’m not sure I agree about roughing the surface for a better bond. For example the senior technical specialist at tight bond says smoother is better (unless the surface is burnished, which it won’t be off of a sharp plane). Maybe your surfaces are burnished and therefore sanding is helping you? Here’s the article I found, would be interested to hear your thoughts! www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/best-wood-glue-surface-smooth-or-rough/
thanks for sharing. actually I the prices of doing this now with my maul. I'm curious if the plywood is a thing,or just your own idea? every handle I've ever seen is made of Hickory for its beneficial properties. won't the plywood delamonate in time after such abuse?
Good question bob! I wouldn't use actual plywood for a handle because it has alternating grain direction, so half of the handle will be short-grain, which is definitely the wrong choice for a handle. This wood is all laminated in the same direction, which makes it suitable for a handle. It will not delaminate over time if the glue joint is good (two smooth surfaces, wood glue, clamped as it dries). A proper wood to wood glue joint is stronger than the wood itself.
I was wondering, if a person wanted to make a composite handle like this would there be a way to use shorter slats so that the outside is multiple different woods? It seems like the handle would only be as strong as the adhesive but some of the magic I've seen carpenters do with layering and joints that maybe there is a simple way to make a handle of many smaller pieces just as strong as a single piece of wood that I have just never seen.
I'm asking because I have an old Bell Systems 4lb sledge that I am restoring and I wanted to make a completely unconventional looking handle that still has adequate function. Not quite checker but patchwork looking maybe.
That's a great question! Unfortunately in my opinion it is not possible to use shorter slats. All grain direction in the handle _must_ run parallel to the length of the handle. Having it run perpendicular will majorly decrease the strength of the handle. Maybe you could make your handle unconventional with some sort of interesting (very shallow) inlay? Or wood burning design?
@@dkbuilds What I had in mind had all of the handle pieces running parallel but each individually would not run the whole length of the handle and no end to end gluing would be at the same distance the end. Say the handle was going to be 12" in length. Column A is two slats of 6" each. Column B is three slats of 4" each. Repeat that sandwiching pattern four more times. All grains running in the same direction.
I get the feeling this layout would not be strong enough to withstand heavy use but at the same time composite materials do some weird stuff engineering wise that I don't quite understand. I was looking for a view of the handle that would be almost checkered by using different woods, kind of like your video.
that shoulder under your head is an exe handle no no. But over all it looks like a big improvement.
Thanks for the tips Lance! Agreed about the shoulder. Cheers
That's not "restoration".
That's "putting a new handle on my axe."
Good point Tomato -- I've updated the title 👍
😬 promosm
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