I have been running one of these on my 69 Camaro for 35 years... I think today the first one I installed croaked. I use it in combination with a Tilton high-torque mini starter and it has worked great. I did mine slightly differently but the same result. I like the shim. I just used a wire as the jumper. It's not the only F%$* part on my car.
Why does the new solenoid have 2 wires connected together at the S terminal . I would have thought you simply take the thin wire fron the original solenoid S terminal and use that on the new solenoid D terminal. Why the additional wire ?
I have a 1953 ford f100 with a chevy 350 in it i have headers to and it keeps burning out my starters the shield things dont work is this my best bet because i cant find anything else
@@American-OutdoorsNet I did, however it seems like my starter is retaining energy. Could it be because it’s a mini starter and has a magnetic setup? Also appreciate the reply!
This trick has been around forever, I think at least the early 70's. I have done it, but you are far better off pulling the starter and replacing the solenoid, might as well replace the brushes while you are in there and maybe have it turned or at least clean the armature with some emery cloth. Hey look, a you just rebuilt your starter.
But what if you are having heat issues, then solenoid relocation, heat shield, or mini starters seem like good options. Otherwise you'll have the same issues
I hope this trick works on my 1958 Chevy Apache with a 350 in it. Have had truck 10 years and gone thru 5 high torque mini starters because of heat soak here in NV. Heat shields don’t work, I’ve tried em all. A high torque solenoid would be the cats Azz.
That's a great idea sir, I've never heard or seen this before.
From Oregon , in the coastal mountains.( I'm a Diy). Thank you.
I have been running one of these on my 69 Camaro for 35 years... I think today the first one I installed croaked. I use it in combination with a Tilton high-torque mini starter and it has worked great. I did mine slightly differently but the same result. I like the shim. I just used a wire as the jumper. It's not the only F%$* part on my car.
Why does the new solenoid have 2 wires connected together at the S terminal . I would have thought you simply take the thin wire fron the original solenoid S terminal and use that on the new solenoid D terminal. Why the additional wire ?
I second that question.
Great video , there are so many different solenoids, do you happen to remember the part# and where you bought it ?
Yes, I believe the part # is at around 1m 45sec.
I have a 1953 ford f100 with a chevy 350 in it i have headers to and it keeps burning out my starters the shield things dont work is this my best bet because i cant find anything else
See but what if I did this and my starter stay engaged? What did I do wrong?
I would suggest rewatching the video and focusing on the connections and diagrams. If need be, draw them out and take with you back to your truck.
@@American-OutdoorsNet I did, however it seems like my starter is retaining energy. Could it be because it’s a mini starter and has a magnetic setup? Also appreciate the reply!
This trick has been around forever, I think at least the early 70's. I have done it, but you are far better off pulling the starter and replacing the solenoid, might as well replace the brushes while you are in there and maybe have it turned or at least clean the armature with some emery cloth. Hey look, a you just rebuilt your starter.
But what if you are having heat issues, then solenoid relocation, heat shield, or mini starters seem like good options. Otherwise you'll have the same issues
I hope this trick works on my 1958 Chevy Apache with a 350 in it. Have had truck 10 years and gone thru 5 high torque mini starters because of heat soak here in NV. Heat shields don’t work, I’ve tried em all. A high torque solenoid would be the cats Azz.
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Ford F 150 with L98 🤔 😊😅