Hey Kim, I saw this in a video this morning, then tried to set it up on my new bike and honestly couldn't make it work just perfectly. One time out of three the chain would jump in the wheel. And I've been super cautious, back and forth one eighth of a turn at a time! Eventually gave up. Can it have anything to do with the B-limit screw? I have to assume there's a relation between the two. FYI I've set the B-limit screw up like advised SRAM's website, 2.5cm away from the biggest cog (11-36), and then a tiny bit closer to get crisper shifting as advised by some SRAM pro mech. Lastly @Clint Gibbs, great review! I have had a hard time getting used to the big gap between available ratios on this setup. Exactly like you say in your review: too hard, shift up, too easy (overspin), shift back down. Still working on it. Have you gotten used to it eventually?
@@ClintGibbs Hi clint and everybody. I have a sram apex 2x10 on my cx bike, and I plan to replace the RD for the apex1 (declared as 10-11 speed). both rd and my shifters have the exact actuation system, and the total count of teeth gap (min cog + min ring vs max cog + max ring) is ok according the range declared by sram. can anyone tell me if has tried it, or if you think could work/not work and why? thanks.
CLINT! Your reviews are as crisp and as the shifts on my new Dura Ace Di2 group. Thanks for the pertinent relevant content, please keep feeding us the awesome sauce, very helpful indeed.
Thank you for the review, shifting for a Sram.force 1, same cassette 11-36 but 50 chainring. Just for road. Although I think I'll get a 44 to swap in case I do long hill days. Cheers
Clint, there is a hidden click in the SRAM brifters, this will stop the derailleur shifting into a harder gear when you're at the end of the cassette. Watch this video from 4:12: ua-cam.com/video/XagBY9LLI7c/v-deo.html
Clint Gibbs just curious, when watching watching the video that Boni H. ; Gave a link to was you able to stop what the SRAM tech called the dummy shift from your easiest to the next harder gear with a minor adjustment?
Thanx Clint. I'm considering a new Gravel Bike, and therefore also the gear-set up. Your Video was sure a good intro that leads me to try a 1xX system.
Clint great review, when racing CX I think a 1x system mitigates a huge amount of risk in dropping a chain. The front derailleur shift is the most typical place for a chain to drop especially when you add mud and course debris. I consider 1x a tactical advantage. Of course I am a bit bias as a long time sram loyalest. #HPAF
Hi Clint, I have just changed from a 2 x 10 shimano group set to a 1 x 12 sram and I cannot believe how much better it is. I have run shimano all my life and I am not sure I will ever go back to shimano
SRAM is just freaking expensive. Here in Australia a full disc groupset for SRAM Force 1 is 50% more expensive than Shimano Ultegra 8000 disc. That’s about AU$800 more which goes a long way towards a good set of wheels in a new build. I get the robustness benefits but I’m doing a gravel (not CX) build that will spend time on the road as well so I wonder if loosing the close gearing options of Ultegra 2x and paying an extra 50% is worth it for the clutch derailleur and single ring chain stability?
Remember, Shi&mano is made in CHINA. I agree with you........, support the ChiComs, ergo buy Shi&mano, go for the cheapest pos equipment you can get your hands on. Oh, and never tip. Screw everybody. Have a nice day.
I wish Shimano would make a dedicated road/cross 1x groupset. I'm converting my road bike (Currently 105 shifters, CX-77 brakes, Ultegra cassette, Gevanalle 2x10 FD/RD,) to 1x10, (swapping in a Zee RD, XT 11-32, Wolftooth Tanpan.) I simply don't use the top 4-5 ratios of my 2x10, and the big-to-small ring front shift is right in the middle of the gears I use all of the time, (plus getting a clutch RD will be nice for when I go off road.) I'm sticking with similar gear jumps and just losing top end that I wasn't using anyway. Upgrading to hydro brakes would be nice, but it's cost prohibitive, and forces me to give up a clutch/short cage, (Shimano doesn't have a short/clutch 11 spd.) I wish I didn't have to deal with the flappy paddle on the left, but until Shimano makes CX-1 or Ultegra-1, I'm going with this bodge. When it comes time for a new bike, Force 1 looks like the best choice. TFP this review, Clint.
Once again a great review, thank you! I bought my first road bike with Sram Double Tap based on your two Sram road group set reviews. After testing shortly Shimano STI and Di2 I was not convinced about the shifter logic and feel having a long backround with Sram mtb group sets. Thanks to your great reviews I ordered a Sram Double Tap 2x11 road bike without testing and I could not be happier after a month of operating the Sram Double Tap shifter and brake levers.
2x for gravel and road is hands down a much more efficient ride that allows you to keep a smoother cadence climbing or even on the flats. Cyclocross racing is a harsh and intense ride that doesn't allow for a smooth shift to avoid chain drops.
Interesting video, cheers. How many times have I looked down at the gears to see I'm in a 46x32 and it feels fine, and not wanting to change gear into something less wearing on the components? Rhetorical question.
I have a SRAM Rival 1 and the pad contact takes forever, even with new pads. Just to point out that it is not up to the brand but probably more to the model.
I was worried about the breaking performance, because the Avid Juicy Five set I had installed on My Cannondale Caffeine F1 originally, were rubbish. How well do they appear to break, compared to Shimano 105, for instance? And how reliable is the overall package compared to Shimano, in your experience? Thank you.
Brakes will not be as grabby as 105 but we'll have a little bit better power modulation. Performance is great except for the fact that they have title clearance and even a very slight wobble in the rotor will cause you to have to make a perfect adjustment. Just takes longer to do than Shimano.
@@ClintGibbs Thank you for the clarification, Clint. :) By the way, did you hear: Shimano just announced a dedicated gravel / cyclocross groupset (1 x & 2 x, from Tiagra's hydraulic equivalent to DI2 Ultegra's). I prefer the look of the Sram cranks, but otherwise - quite an exciting news!
The type of pads you use will greatly affect braking performance. I ended up opting for a third party set of metallic pads. The original SRAM organic pads have good initial bite and modulation at lower speeds, but lack the maximum power during fast descents and sustained braking, wear out quickly, and are honestly quite expensive. Also, and this may be just me, I've found their performance in wet to be poor and it took me a lot of effort to wear them in.
Hi Clint, I have Sram Apex and don't love the shape of the hoods because while climbing I find I can't get enough of my fingers underneath the hood for leverage. I've never used Shimano. Do you think any better in that regard?
Clint, I'm running Ultegra 2x drivetrain on my gravel bike with a 11 speed cassette. Can I simply replace my crank set with a Sram Force 1 x to convert my drivetrain to a 1 x system? Or do I have to replace the chain, cassette and rear derailleur? 99% of my riding is in the 12 to 20 mph range, so I don't need the wide range gearing of the 2x system.
Been a while since I've mixed and matched Shimano and Sram. I would check with your local bike shop. But you will need a Sram narrow wide chain, and I'm not sure if that will work on a Shimano cassette or rear derailleur.
I honestly don't know, sorry. I no longer have this bike and I have not done any research on that. You could probably call Quark or go to their website to find out
Thanks for your video. I want to note one thing though -- you mentioned that when you are in the easiest gear and you click one more time to go up one more time, then instead of doing nothing and staying in the easiest gear it drops back to the next cog. Well I just watched another video where SRAM mechanic explained this. If you look for GCN video the title is *How To Set Up SRAM 1x Road Groupsets* Hope it helps.
I’ve seen that video and tried quickly to set up like that but I didn’t have much success. Seems like a workaround which is frustrating. Perhaps I just need to devote more time to it.
I'm running a Force 1x on my Diverge gravel bike, and almost swapped it out for a 2x Ultegra. I seriously disliked the big jumps in the smaller gears, which was exacerbated by not understanding multiple-cog-shifting (if I wasn't careful). I've found myself spinning at 65 RPM one instant, and 120 RPM the next. Perhaps a benefit for Clint, but not something I'm crazy about. I'm also not convinced cross-chaining is something that has suddenly become okay. I've seen test reports that suggest this can cause a loss of 10W+ of efficiency, and it's kind of noisy. Maybe not the deal-killer, but I need all the watts I can produce to go into forward motion. Finally, while the shifting is intuitive to learn, after a month of riding, I still find myself pushing sideways on the right brake lever from time to time. That momentary delay in finding my desired gear can kill what little momentum I had going on a tough little hill. Finally, like Clint, I occasionally get a bit of brake pad rub - I usually ignore it and it has always gone away on its own. Am I going to swap to a 2x Ultegra? Probably not - I'm getting used to it, and it works pretty well for the type of riding we do... lots of steep hills and small mountains. (BTW, the Diverge Expert is an excellent and fun toy)
FWIW, 11x42 (PG 1130) does not need the XD driver, but you would still need the long cage. The PG 1170 Force 1 cassettes are also 11xNN not 10xNN, so they use a regular 11 speed driver. So if you don't care about the extra grams, an 11x42 is an option without changing the driver interface. So, FWIW if you get a TCX SX, it is the same frame as the Advanced Pro bikes, just with an Apex group set, and comes with a long cage and an 11x42, and if you want you can get a second set of wheels then put a 11x36 or 11x32 on them (or just swap cassettes if you like) and the long cage works great with the smaller cassettes too. I have an 11x36 Force 1 11x36 cassette on a second set of wheels for TCX SX, and even though the rest of the bike is still Apex, it all works flawlessly. I don't have to adjust anything when swapping wheels/cassettes. It just works, even with the chain sized for the 11x42 the shifting is still perfect. I'll be swapping out other components to Force 1 or Rival 1 as they break, and/or if I decide to put a 42 or 44 ring on front I might just replace the whole crank with Force 1, but I'm happy with my Frankenstein bike right now. I've not had any real issues with the Apex stuff, it's mostly just weight differences. IE the 11x36 Force 1 is 6oz less then then 11x42 cassette that came with my bike. Most of the rest of the weight difference would be the cranks, Rival 1 actually weighs about the same as the Apex cranks, so if I replace my cranks it will be Force 1 for sure.
Usually on single speed you don’t use a narrow wide chain ring. I haven’t done a lot of research to see if you could, so that would be something to look into.
+Brian HS my personal opinion is that most road-racers will stick with 2 x systems but it will be interesting to see in the future. Roadies are very particular about their Cadence and sometimes with 1 X system it's hard to find the right Cadence.
+Andrew Robertson after two seasons on di2 I concluded it's extremely nice but not necessary. I don't miss it so it's not worth the extra expense to me. If you ride in super nasty conditions then I can see where etap would be preferred. I prefer a one by system for cross racing.
Yes I did. In fact I just changed the wheels on my cross bike and had to align them. I think the trick is to spread the pads part and squeeze the lever several times to lube the pistons. We'll see how it goes. I like their mountain bike brakes but I'll take Shimano road breaks over SRAM any day. The sram road shifting is good.
I've never had a problem with not having enough braking power with any brakes and I don't have hydraulic brakes. modulation on the other hand I have had issues with with some brakes but usually that's with rim brakes. And the big problem with 1× is paying more for less makes no sense at all
Let me tell ya . Please change with New force 1 AXS just 1-12 . Rear Cassete 10-26 tooth someth like that or 10-32 ;) in front chainring is just 46tooth max for now
@@ClintGibbs Can you plu help me with one more thing. Can I change driveterains on two gravel bikes. Canyon grail AL 7.0 had Sram force 1 1x Sram presfit gxp other one Canyon grail cf sl 7.0 had shimano 2x grx Shimano presfit BB?
You are right, you can use Shimano cassettes too and everything else like Sunrace etc. But the XD has advantages. That 1 tooth difference is big, use a gear calculator and you will see.
i will never go back to 2by...I ride every terrain on a Gravel/ CX bike...44t Chainring and 10-42 cassette (Force Group cause i love the shifting/shifter and the brakes are a little better)
Rubbing and constantly re-adjusting .... Argh! I've had that issue on more that one bike in the past using SRAM brakes. Frustrating. Haven't had this issue with other brands I've used. No more SRAM brakes for me until they figure this out.
That is the majority of the reason why all disc CX bikes have transitioned to thru axles, it allows for the wheel to be mounted the same way every time.
Hi Clint, you can set the limit screw so that you have a false shift when you are in the lowest gear. This prevents the accidental upshift.
+Kim Jensen thanks!
Hey Kim, I saw this in a video this morning, then tried to set it up on my new bike and honestly couldn't make it work just perfectly. One time out of three the chain would jump in the wheel. And I've been super cautious, back and forth one eighth of a turn at a time! Eventually gave up. Can it have anything to do with the B-limit screw? I have to assume there's a relation between the two. FYI I've set the B-limit screw up like advised SRAM's website, 2.5cm away from the biggest cog (11-36), and then a tiny bit closer to get crisper shifting as advised by some SRAM pro mech.
Lastly @Clint Gibbs, great review! I have had a hard time getting used to the big gap between available ratios on this setup. Exactly like you say in your review: too hard, shift up, too easy (overspin), shift back down. Still working on it. Have you gotten used to it eventually?
My Rival 1 was set up like this straight from the factory (or dealer?)
@@ClintGibbs Hi clint and everybody. I have a sram apex 2x10 on my cx bike, and I plan to replace the RD for the apex1 (declared as 10-11 speed). both rd and my shifters have the exact actuation system, and the total count of teeth gap (min cog + min ring vs max cog + max ring) is ok according the range declared by sram. can anyone tell me if has tried it, or if you think could work/not work and why? thanks.
👍👍👍👍👍 haha was just gonna mention that!
Clint...you just taught me that the brake lever on my rival group set is adjustable...two years into owning my bike!! Thanks!! lol
+Erick Rodriguez 😀
CLINT! Your reviews are as crisp and as the shifts on my new Dura Ace Di2 group. Thanks for the pertinent relevant content, please keep feeding us the awesome sauce, very helpful indeed.
Really informative review. I've got a new CX bike for the coming CX season and it comes with SRAM Force 1. Looks like it will suit me really well!
Thank you for the review, shifting for a Sram.force 1, same cassette 11-36 but 50 chainring. Just for road. Although I think I'll get a 44 to swap in case I do long hill days. Cheers
Clint, there is a hidden click in the SRAM brifters, this will stop the derailleur shifting into a harder gear when you're at the end of the cassette.
Watch this video from 4:12:
ua-cam.com/video/XagBY9LLI7c/v-deo.html
+Boni Hollóssy cool. Thanks.
"Brifters" - I just died a bit on the inside.
Clint Gibbs just curious, when watching watching the video that Boni H. ; Gave a link to was you able to stop what the SRAM tech called the dummy shift from your easiest to the next harder gear with a minor adjustment?
@@CanIHasThisName sounds a lot better than STI's mind, I must say.
Thanx Clint. I'm considering a new Gravel Bike, and therefore also the gear-set up. Your Video was sure a good intro that leads me to try a 1xX system.
If you get what you describe at 3:56 it's not setup right. You can actually feel if you are in the last cog if it's set up right.
Clint great review, when racing CX I think a 1x system mitigates a huge amount of risk in dropping a chain. The front derailleur shift is the most typical place for a chain to drop especially when you add mud and course debris. I consider 1x a tactical advantage. Of course I am a bit bias as a long time sram loyalest. #HPAF
Hi Clint, I have just changed from a 2 x 10 shimano group set to a 1 x 12 sram and I cannot believe how much better it is. I have run shimano all my life and I am not sure I will ever go back to shimano
Ahahaha now you will buy new Sram Force 1 AXS . But the chainring in fron is only 46Tooth max now ;)
Keep up the great content man!
Looking through some of your older videos, I see you had 1x Di2 on the previous cross bike. Do you prefer this mechanical setup to that?
SRAM is just freaking expensive. Here in Australia a full disc groupset for SRAM Force 1 is 50% more expensive than Shimano Ultegra 8000 disc. That’s about AU$800 more which goes a long way towards a good set of wheels in a new build. I get the robustness benefits but I’m doing a gravel (not CX) build that will spend time on the road as well so I wonder if loosing the close gearing options of Ultegra 2x and paying an extra 50% is worth it for the clutch derailleur and single ring chain stability?
Remember, Shi&mano is made in CHINA. I agree with you........, support the ChiComs, ergo buy Shi&mano, go for the cheapest pos equipment you can get your hands on. Oh, and never tip. Screw everybody. Have a nice day.
@@death2pc In fact many Shimano parts are made in Japan, with some made in places like Malaysia, while all of the Sram products are made in Taiwan....
Excellent explanation of SRAM.
Are you running the stock stem? Wondering what length stock is
I wish Shimano would make a dedicated road/cross 1x groupset. I'm converting my road bike (Currently 105 shifters, CX-77 brakes, Ultegra cassette, Gevanalle 2x10 FD/RD,) to 1x10, (swapping in a Zee RD, XT 11-32, Wolftooth Tanpan.) I simply don't use the top 4-5 ratios of my 2x10, and the big-to-small ring front shift is right in the middle of the gears I use all of the time, (plus getting a clutch RD will be nice for when I go off road.) I'm sticking with similar gear jumps and just losing top end that I wasn't using anyway.
Upgrading to hydro brakes would be nice, but it's cost prohibitive, and forces me to give up a clutch/short cage, (Shimano doesn't have a short/clutch 11 spd.) I wish I didn't have to deal with the flappy paddle on the left, but until Shimano makes CX-1 or Ultegra-1, I'm going with this bodge. When it comes time for a new bike, Force 1 looks like the best choice. TFP this review, Clint.
Once again a great review, thank you!
I bought my first road bike with Sram Double Tap based on your two Sram road group set reviews. After testing shortly Shimano STI and Di2 I was not convinced about the shifter logic and feel having a long backround with Sram mtb group sets. Thanks to your great reviews I ordered a Sram Double Tap 2x11 road bike without testing and I could not be happier after a month of operating the Sram Double Tap shifter and brake levers.
Nice! It does become very intuitive very quickly.
I have a 10-33 rear 12 speed ROAD , what front chain ring tooth mimics 2x most?
2x for gravel and road is hands down a much more efficient ride that allows you to keep a smoother cadence climbing or even on the flats. Cyclocross racing is a harsh and intense ride that doesn't allow for a smooth shift to avoid chain drops.
Does anyone know if you can put an OVAL wide/narrow chainring on this, specifically the Rotor?
Interesting video, cheers. How many times have I looked down at the gears to see I'm in a 46x32 and it feels fine, and not wanting to change gear into something less wearing on the components? Rhetorical question.
One of the best component reviews I've seen. How is the brake modulation compared to Shimano?
+Vignesh S I would say modulation is about on par with Shimano though the brakes tend to have a little bit less initial bite than Shimano.
I have a SRAM Rival 1 and the pad contact takes forever, even with new pads.
Just to point out that it is not up to the brand but probably more to the model.
I have this exact bike (2019) and the group set is better than shimano. This is from personal experience.
Thumbs up here..
I was worried about the breaking performance, because the Avid Juicy Five set I had installed on My Cannondale Caffeine F1 originally, were rubbish.
How well do they appear to break, compared to Shimano 105, for instance? And how reliable is the overall package compared to Shimano, in your experience?
Thank you.
Brakes will not be as grabby as 105 but we'll have a little bit better power modulation. Performance is great except for the fact that they have title clearance and even a very slight wobble in the rotor will cause you to have to make a perfect adjustment. Just takes longer to do than Shimano.
@@ClintGibbs Thank you for the clarification, Clint. :)
By the way, did you hear: Shimano just announced a dedicated gravel / cyclocross groupset (1 x & 2 x, from Tiagra's hydraulic equivalent to DI2 Ultegra's). I prefer the look of the Sram cranks, but otherwise - quite an exciting news!
Leo_inter_Hyaenaem yep, looking forward to seeing it
The type of pads you use will greatly affect braking performance. I ended up opting for a third party set of metallic pads. The original SRAM organic pads have good initial bite and modulation at lower speeds, but lack the maximum power during fast descents and sustained braking, wear out quickly, and are honestly quite expensive. Also, and this may be just me, I've found their performance in wet to be poor and it took me a lot of effort to wear them in.
Hi Clint, I have Sram Apex and don't love the shape of the hoods because while climbing I find I can't get enough of my fingers underneath the hood for leverage. I've never used Shimano. Do you think any better in that regard?
Most likely. The Shimano hoods are smaller.
Great review Clint thanks
Clint, I'm running Ultegra 2x drivetrain on my gravel bike with a 11 speed cassette. Can I simply replace my crank set with a Sram Force 1 x to convert my drivetrain to a 1 x system? Or do I have to replace the chain, cassette and rear derailleur?
99% of my riding is in the 12 to 20 mph range, so I don't need the wide range gearing of the 2x system.
Been a while since I've mixed and matched Shimano and Sram. I would check with your local bike shop. But you will need a Sram narrow wide chain, and I'm not sure if that will work on a Shimano cassette or rear derailleur.
Clint does that crankset accept the quarq power meter?
I honestly don't know, sorry. I no longer have this bike and I have not done any research on that. You could probably call Quark or go to their website to find out
Thanks for your video. I want to note one thing though -- you mentioned that when you are in the easiest gear and you click one more time to go up one more time, then instead of doing nothing and staying in the easiest gear it drops back to the next cog. Well I just watched another video where SRAM mechanic explained this. If you look for GCN video the title is *How To Set Up SRAM 1x Road Groupsets* Hope it helps.
I’ve seen that video and tried quickly to set up like that but I didn’t have much success. Seems like a workaround which is frustrating. Perhaps I just need to devote more time to it.
I'm running a Force 1x on my Diverge gravel bike, and almost swapped it out for a 2x Ultegra. I seriously disliked the big jumps in the smaller gears, which was exacerbated by not understanding multiple-cog-shifting (if I wasn't careful). I've found myself spinning at 65 RPM one instant, and 120 RPM the next. Perhaps a benefit for Clint, but not something I'm crazy about. I'm also not convinced cross-chaining is something that has suddenly become okay. I've seen test reports that suggest this can cause a loss of 10W+ of efficiency, and it's kind of noisy. Maybe not the deal-killer, but I need all the watts I can produce to go into forward motion. Finally, while the shifting is intuitive to learn, after a month of riding, I still find myself pushing sideways on the right brake lever from time to time. That momentary delay in finding my desired gear can kill what little momentum I had going on a tough little hill. Finally, like Clint, I occasionally get a bit of brake pad rub - I usually ignore it and it has always gone away on its own. Am I going to swap to a 2x Ultegra? Probably not - I'm getting used to it, and it works pretty well for the type of riding we do... lots of steep hills and small mountains. (BTW, the Diverge Expert is an excellent and fun toy)
Hi, I have a bike that moves the chain with sram, I like these new chain movers/bike stoppers more than my apex 2x10
I was told on the TCX if you want to go to the 10x42 you would have to change from a medium cage to a longer cage, so it isn't just a cassette change.
FWIW, 11x42 (PG 1130) does not need the XD driver, but you would still need the long cage. The PG 1170 Force 1 cassettes are also 11xNN not 10xNN, so they use a regular 11 speed driver. So if you don't care about the extra grams, an 11x42 is an option without changing the driver interface.
So, FWIW if you get a TCX SX, it is the same frame as the Advanced Pro bikes, just with an Apex group set, and comes with a long cage and an 11x42, and if you want you can get a second set of wheels then put a 11x36 or 11x32 on them (or just swap cassettes if you like) and the long cage works great with the smaller cassettes too. I have an 11x36 Force 1 11x36 cassette on a second set of wheels for TCX SX, and even though the rest of the bike is still Apex, it all works flawlessly. I don't have to adjust anything when swapping wheels/cassettes. It just works, even with the chain sized for the 11x42 the shifting is still perfect. I'll be swapping out other components to Force 1 or Rival 1 as they break, and/or if I decide to put a 42 or 44 ring on front I might just replace the whole crank with Force 1, but I'm happy with my Frankenstein bike right now. I've not had any real issues with the Apex stuff, it's mostly just weight differences. IE the 11x36 Force 1 is 6oz less then then 11x42 cassette that came with my bike. Most of the rest of the weight difference would be the cranks, Rival 1 actually weighs about the same as the Apex cranks, so if I replace my cranks it will be Force 1 for sure.
Thank you for the review.
could this be used on a fixed gear bike?
Usually on single speed you don’t use a narrow wide chain ring. I haven’t done a lot of research to see if you could, so that would be something to look into.
How easy is it to change a chain ring? Do you have to take the whole crank out?
Is depend what crank cassete you use . Must be Sram
What do you think about road racing teams shifting to 1x? Is that the future for road racing as well?
+Brian HS my personal opinion is that most road-racers will stick with 2 x systems but it will be interesting to see in the future. Roadies are very particular about their Cadence and sometimes with 1 X system it's hard to find the right Cadence.
What about Sram etap for cyclecross and gravel grinding I’m almost there make up my decision , thanks
+Andrew Robertson after two seasons on di2 I concluded it's extremely nice but not necessary. I don't miss it so it's not worth the extra expense to me. If you ride in super nasty conditions then I can see where etap would be preferred. I prefer a one by system for cross racing.
are you still of the opinion that SRAM groupset is good? Didn't you come to the conclusion that the brake system was difficult to keep aligned?
Yes I did. In fact I just changed the wheels on my cross bike and had to align them. I think the trick is to spread the pads part and squeeze the lever several times to lube the pistons. We'll see how it goes. I like their mountain bike brakes but I'll take Shimano road breaks over SRAM any day. The sram road shifting is good.
I've never had a problem with not having enough braking power with any brakes and I don't have hydraulic brakes. modulation on the other hand I have had issues with with some brakes but usually that's with rim brakes. And the big problem with 1× is paying more for less makes no sense at all
SRAM Apex 1 or Shimano 105?
Let me tell ya . Please change with New force 1 AXS just 1-12 . Rear Cassete 10-26 tooth someth like that or 10-32 ;) in front chainring is just 46tooth max for now
Well done, thanks!
how's the lifespan of these chainring ?
I’ve never had one wear out. You always want to make sure you are diligent to change the chain when it stretches
Can I put oval chainring on?
Yes. I believe absoluteBLACK makes one
@@ClintGibbs Can you plu help me with one more thing. Can I change driveterains on two gravel bikes. Canyon grail AL 7.0 had Sram force 1 1x Sram presfit gxp other one Canyon grail cf sl 7.0 had shimano 2x grx Shimano presfit BB?
And AL version had 650b wheels.. Carbon version 700c
I think you can get an 11-42 cassette from Sram (PG-1130) and use the same hub body not the XD drive body. Or am i wrong...?
You are right, you can use Shimano cassettes too and everything else like Sunrace etc.
But the XD has advantages. That 1 tooth difference is big, use a gear calculator and you will see.
tgfedi 1130 is too heavy，awesome 500+g，if you use the XD body and cassette both of them are much lighter than 1130&Shimano body
i will never go back to 2by...I ride every terrain on a Gravel/ CX bike...44t Chainring and 10-42 cassette (Force Group cause i love the shifting/shifter and the brakes are a little better)
Rubbing and constantly re-adjusting .... Argh! I've had that issue on more that one bike in the past using SRAM brakes. Frustrating. Haven't had this issue with other brands I've used. No more SRAM brakes for me until they figure this out.
my disc brakes are shit, if i take the front wheel off, its adjustment time.
That is the majority of the reason why all disc CX bikes have transitioned to thru axles, it allows for the wheel to be mounted the same way every time.
Sram force us a cross specific drive train