Mitsubishi MSZ-GL15NA-U1Mini Split Install Part 1
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
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*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
This is a great video and your teaching method is smooth and easy. Thanks so much for doing this. I have installed two of these 3 months apart and I consult your video each time.
The most comprehensive video I’ve seen regarding the air handler so far. Thank you.
I also installed one of these Mitsubishi hyperheat heat pump systems. Three zones for a log home. I used one 15 like the one shown in the video, plus 2 6's for master bedroom and full bath. I also connected the wire like you did, I don't like unnecessary connections or splices so I just ran the wire outside to the outdoor unit. The hardest part was feeding the lineset and wiring thru the wall. I ended up boring 2 1.5" holes thru the log, one hole for lineset, and the other for drain/electrical. Was pretty tight fit, but 1.5" is the biggest my drill can handle boring thru a little over 8" of tulip poplar wood. The owners love the system, that condenser is so quiet it makes almost zero noise, and barely made a difference in their electrical bill. They have two airtight wood stoves for backup heat, and they wanted central air, so this was the best system for the application.
My HVAC guy is going to do the pipe & line hookups on my system, and my electrician will do the breaker panel, but I'm doing the grunt work. The outdoor unit was easy to mount to my concrete foundation, and I'll add a detachable 'roof' to keep snow to a minimum. Watching Ralph is extremely helpful, especially regarding where he centers the 3" diameter hole. In my situation with a sheetrock & stud wall, there's an issue with Mitsubishi's wall plate: If you hang the center holes on a stud, you're most likely going to have an issue with the 3" hole if you follow their directions. Common sense rules, thank you, Ralph!
I had the exact same split system installed in my bedroom and it works really well.
I did wind up sweating the evaporator lines. I didn't want to get a leak after installation a few years down the road. Great vidio very helpful, Thanks.
Looks like u done this a few times , thanks for all the tips , I'm bout to watch 2nd part
Very good and clean install, thanks for the tips. You can tell you have put a few in
Drill a pilot hole at angle thru the wall first, then drill big hole. Place a sleeve in the hole before running line set and cord, apply sealant on outside.
Great Vid , Newbie in hvac , learning from the pro's .
Looks great Ralph! Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to part 2!
Thanks Chuck
If anyone is interested the wire he's using is-14/4 Honeywell Genesis Tray Cable, rated 600v.
Excellent, Ralph. I am going to install one of these systems in my 2-car garage! That said, I first am going to remove some drywall and get an electrician to run my 240v... then patch that up.
Good video !
Thanks for the tip on doing the electrical at the ground. I have been doing it on the wall and it is a bitch... You just made that much easier.
That's the power of UA-cam Greg
throw a level on the plate and youre good to go. sometimes those plates arent perfectly cut. awesome work!
nice work Ralf. i wrap the lines with saran wrap. keeps everything snug and snag free.
Don't know about what you Americans have, but here in Australia I do a spiral of electrical tape down the piping which gets tighter around the end of the drain and end of the pipe
dang I wish I had your knowledge ralph someday very professional work!!!!
Nice job Ralph, looking 4 pt 2. thanks for posting.
I'll be loading it up in just a little bit. Thanks for watching
I NEVER THOUGHT ABOUT WIRING IT ON THE GROUND. So much easier
Thank you for the great videos I learned a lot from you
Very Nice!!! Looking forward to part 2
Be up in just a little bit John
Thanks for the video poster. However, at video 4:55 he decided to cut the 3" hole to line up with the right edge of the metal mounting plate even though the Instruction spec'ed for 5 1/8" from the ruler reference slot, at video 5:30, with the spec'ed hole about 1" further to the right compared to his. At first it might make sense for what he doing -- the 3" hole would line up nicely with the copper pipes and drain tube. Well, the reason the Mitsubishi engineers spec the hole 1" further to the right is to avoid water leaking on the wall!!! Why? If the hole center lined up with the metal plate right edge, the icy cold internal pipes would be right under the metal plate, and a cold plate would have water condensation on it and then leak down along the wall. The engineer wanted to have the unit shifted to the most RIGHT (in the 3 slots) when it is mounted to the metal mounting plate, and the 3" hole would line up with with copper pipes and the plate is far away from the internal very cold pipes.
Very good advice. So just to make sure the mini split should be pushed all the way to the right when mounted and not centered on the plate? The 3" hole is very close the edge of the mini split when mounted center onto the plate
Nice work Ralph looking forward to part 2
Nice video. Tuned in for part 2.
It's up now, fell asleep before it finished loading in UA-cam
Extremely helpful man
Great work Ralph!
Should Mitsubishi indoor cool only wall units have a release of nitrogen when taking off caps?
Nice job. How much for unit? Could I use some other condenser with that wall unit? Mitsubishi looks hard to work on. Everything is crammed into a small space. Also if it were my house I wouldn't use particle board in area of a penetration. And I would paint area of penetration with some protective enamel.
My mitsubishi minisplit has an oscillator button on the right hand side. HOW DO I MAKE THAT STOP ROTATING????? It's making a pulsing noise that's driving me crazy. Thanks
Hate it when good videos cut off!
Sorry but I didn't want to have a 37 min video. I just loaded part 2
Hi, we had three Mitsubishi mini splits installed upstairs today. Something unusual is a wall switch mounted next to the unit like a regular light switch and it sticks out from the wall it looks terrible, the tech said it is a "service on off switch" is that something new. The unit is MSZ-GL009A.
Very good Ralph
Thanks Zack
I don't get the attraction of these things. LG sells a window heat pump with the same specs for the same sqft for under $700! Why install this, when I can put in the window unit without permanent damage, and save a grand for other things?
Crfor Freedom efficiency, the amount of power used, noise, and a Mitsubishi will last wayyyyy longer before it dies
just out of curiosity question.. is it a must to level the mount blade or do we give a little slide drop to the water catch pan drainage outlet.
Is this your favorite brand of Mini Split? My Company pushes Daikin but I took a class on Fujitsu and so far they seem to go through less boards.
Damn you and Zack uploaded at the same time.
Mine is better
I am coming for him.......virtually
+Town & Country Air what is zacks channel?
+IshockO look up taln875pro and town and country air
Talyn875 u r a hack
nice work Ralph.!
Thank you
Very helpful! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome
your line set is going to show! if you have open walls why dont you use the space to run the line set?
You didn't lock that wire for the inside unit. Why not?
Hello sir, what kind of wrenches are used to tighten the pipes? I can use ordinary common keys?
Great video. Could you show us how to remove that indoor unit from wall if need be ? I was told it helps to use a siding tool.
i like to leave the line set that comes from outside in the left side of the inside unit and connect just behind of it. so when you need go wash or replace it you dont have to disturb the whole line set.
+tecnico that's a good idea too, funny how we all prefer to do it different ways based on personal preference
+T&N Services LLC. thats true. great work by the way ralph
Good video as always Ralph.
Thanks for the mini split lesson.😎
Hey Ralf great video yet again!.. Long time listener, first time caller! Was wondering what your experience has been with Mitsubishi mini split heat pumps in colder climates? I'm in mid Wisconsin near Lacrosse. I'm a big fan of Mitsubishi mini split but haven't had ton of experience with the heat pumps. I'm aware from several years back that you could only get heating out of them down to 20 deg f. But recently I've seen some newer Mitsubishi heat pumps that claim to deliver 100% rated btu down to 5 deg f before the btu amount degrades. I'm putting one of these units in a small (12x24) home addition but I have supplemental heat from the existing furnace. But curious what the actual performance will be. I'd like to continue using them.. have another project (appox 15x18 rec room attached to a garage) that needs cooling and they hoped could cover heating as well. But I know I can't entirely rely on the heat pump for heating and so they will still need supplemental heat source.
But just curious what your finding for cold weather performance out of these! Here near Lacrosse it's common to have temps below 0 def f. But probably not sustained that low for more that day or two... But I'd say 5-15 most the winter over nights.
Thanks for any feedback! Keep up the great video!
Nicely done, as usual..
Excellent job!
Does the line set have to come out the back? Could it come out the cutouts on the left side and then be routed down the surface of the wall? I ask because I'm planning a garage install to put the head where I want it, the lines can't come out the back.
+Josh LaFrance you can come out of the side if you want to
If you want to use the flare nut try this sealant instead of hasselig brazing. it's on Amazon 5 stars.
Refrigeration Technologies
Refrigeration Technologies RT200R Nylog- Gasket/Thread Sealant
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Why is my Mitsubishi leaking water from the outside condenser when it’s on heat it’s brand new I install 4. units That’s the only one doing the
can they be installed on camper trailers? does it run on 110 or 220
Why not install after everything is painted and use rough in box.
You ever use the Fujitsu's ?? I really like them ...
Raulph great video!!
Hello sir,
I'm excited to learn,how to install an AC
With you....
Will you help me
Smooth, great job! I like the tip of how you laid out your mark for your hole, have you install other brands and if so does that tip work for those as well?
I'm not sure how the other brands do it. If I do install another brand what I do is lay the bracket in place on the unit then measure where the line comes out of the unit then transfer those measurements to the wall.
What kind of wires does it need
I ran the holesaw backwards to cut thru the plastic siding less damage that way.
should of ran the lineset INSIDE the wall cavity and you wouldn't have that ugly line set cover on the outside of the home. an indoor access panel could be put on the drywall if it every needed to be accesssed for maintenance, or the line set could be brazed so there would never need to be access. plus the refrigerant would be insulated better.
excellent job as alway's!!!!
Nice! Good idea!! I like it
Thanks TJ
I can picture the coils caked in drywall dust.
Great Job.
+Willie Torres thanks
Good job thanks
Your tape measure looks a lot like my level. Lol.
Could have hidden the line set nicely with all the open space to not see piping in my nice yard.
I am ac technician searching a job can u help me.
when you .put all the line set and electrical out like you are doing the way the manufacturer wants it.
Is it a heat pump?
Yes it's a heatpump
T&N Services LLC. I want to do my 3 bedroom town house in NYC. A contractor is charging me 3k per room. Im looking to do a 5 zone. Is that price fair or I'll be paying to much?
For NYC it probably would cost that much. If that $3,000 per room includes equipment and installation, I'd say that's pretty good. If that's just labor, seems very high to me. Then again, I live in Colorado, and to have a mini split installed would be around $500-$800 per unit.
do you install out door unit?
?????
Part 2 is all about the outdoor unit
You made that look at least 4x harder that what it actually is. You can see the botton of your hole after you hung the indoor unit. Unacceptable to a lot customers
Fit and Finish is very important. But thank you for posting
Nice.
Thanks my friend
Any take on using sta brite 8 for swage connections?
BodhisattvaIdeal I'm sure you're not asking me but stay brite 8 is good stuff. The key is using barely enough flux so it doesn't contaminate the system. You can't fill a big gap with it like you can silphos but if you have a good joint; it will hold up just fine. Extra nice for components and other stuff you don't want to overheat.
At 8:04, I see you cut the 12 gauge wire. Could have avoided it looking up.
That's not wire, it's a piece of wood, look closer!
So boring but great teaching !!
Now install a incandescent light bulb, middle of your home.
Me like
Thanks Rob
Take gloves off geezzz