I think he was trying to make a duplicate of the original orbit multi valve manifold. In the original they are this close and IF im not mistaken (dont quote me on it) i believe its also a one piece meaning if something breaks, gatta replace the whole manifold. But wouldn’t be a bad idea to leave about 2in in between each T just incase you need to replace something you’ll still have two inches to add a new T and but glue it all up
States properly, prime & glue, however, he does not prime. I know the rain and shine does not technically need priming however, still is a good idea for lines under pressure.
They sell pre molded manifolds in 2, 3, and so on. You can also add on to them. Saves a lot of time and if you need to change a valve later you just unscrew it at the union and screw another one in. Check your local nursery sprinkler shop. Not going to find them at a big box store other then orbit.
Pleases don't do this as a professional for 39 years. Manifold ING is all great for ease but if 1 of your mainline tees break, it's a nightmare to repair. Better of locating valve in the center of the zone, system will also work better without the friction loss
I've been doing sprinkler pretty much all my life I'm 22 now started when I was 10 changing sprinkler heads. I rarely put primer only when I have inspection. Just glue on pvc will not bust if you leave it to dry for a bit.
The language in this video is slightly misleading cause there is unknown false information by the creator. Says "once its togther thats it" "replace the entire manifold" this is the unknown false information. Heating the pvc at the connection will allow the tubing to be removed and if done right (again very easy) you will not damage the connections and be able to reused everything besides the pvc tubing.
They do have those types of timers. But you would also need the lines up to connect to them. And depending on how many zones you have and pressure… they may not work efficiently
@@jerseyshoredrainagesolutions not knocking at all, I mean hey if it doesn’t leak that’s great. But definitely should use schedule 80, purple primer, gray heavy bodied glue, add longer nipples between the valves and tee fittings (at least), blue Teflon is usually thicker than white Teflon - use white Teflon it is less stress on the connections. Judging from the blue Teflon, the guy was a plumber. I’ve worked with a plumber doing irrigation, let’s just say he had his ideas and I had mine 🙄
They are too close together, have to think about future repairs and replacement.
True
I think he was trying to make a duplicate of the original orbit multi valve manifold. In the original they are this close and IF im not mistaken (dont quote me on it) i believe its also a one piece meaning if something breaks, gatta replace the whole manifold. But wouldn’t be a bad idea to leave about 2in in between each T just incase you need to replace something you’ll still have two inches to add a new T and but glue it all up
Those are Jar tops and can be rebuilt. Still should use manifold fittings but nobody I’ve ever seen on the UA-cam rors
States properly, prime & glue, however, he does not prime. I know the rain and shine does not technically need priming however, still is a good idea for lines under pressure.
This is true
You must of missed the end when he uses clear proper.
I put primer on there @cjinw 🤌🏻
“This is how you properly put a manifold together”
*manifold already installed*
Lol
They sell pre molded manifolds in 2, 3, and so on. You can also add on to them. Saves a lot of time and if you need to change a valve later you just unscrew it at the union and screw another one in. Check your local nursery sprinkler shop. Not going to find them at a big box store other then orbit.
Thanks
Space it out further to be able to replace in the futuee
Why no unions for filter repairs?
always leave a little bit of lead between valves for future repairs atleast 5 inches
Avoid a headache by installing a ball valve before all valves.
Dirt, mud, existing vegetation, roots, hills, wiring, debugging
Action Machining manifold por favor.
I recommend to leave some space between each other just for future repairs 🥂
True
Pleases don't do this as a professional for 39 years. Manifold ING is all great for ease but if 1 of your mainline tees break, it's a nightmare to repair. Better of locating valve in the center of the zone, system will also work better without the friction loss
I hate PVC manifolds. Every time I spot one bad valve with a PVC manifold I always charge to replace everything
I've been doing sprinkler pretty much all my life I'm 22 now started when I was 10 changing sprinkler heads. I rarely put primer only when I have inspection. Just glue on pvc will not bust if you leave it to dry for a bit.
Thanks for the tip
What are you using for backflow protection?
Are valve boxes typically a standard size for 1, 2, 3 valves? Why not add PVC unions for quick swap out?
yes up to 4 valves
To close for future repairs
That is solid advice boss thank you 😎😎
Thanks
You don’t need to prime new pipe
Yeah no, how do you change the valves if you ever need to with the way you have done it
Why are they all so close together, is there room to unscrew the valve assembly?
Do you need a pump for those valves or can you just use those electric valves with the home utility water using non-pump?? Please help
Electric valves with home utility water
The language in this video is slightly misleading cause there is unknown false information by the creator.
Says "once its togther thats it" "replace the entire manifold" this is the unknown false information. Heating the pvc at the connection will allow the tubing to be removed and if done right (again very easy) you will not damage the connections and be able to reused everything besides the pvc tubing.
PVC cement and Primer
Ha. This guy probably also shoves them in the smallest enclosure possible.
Must've ran out of unions 😂
Can i just hook up the sprinklers to a water faucet outside?
They do have those types of timers. But you would also need the lines up to connect to them. And depending on how many zones you have and pressure… they may not work efficiently
DV 100 is a much better valve.
No schedule 80 for the manifold? Or gray heavy bodied glue?
The ex partner said he knew what he was doing lol 😆
@@jerseyshoredrainagesolutions not knocking at all, I mean hey if it doesn’t leak that’s great. But definitely should use schedule 80, purple primer, gray heavy bodied glue, add longer nipples between the valves and tee fittings (at least), blue Teflon is usually thicker than white Teflon - use white Teflon it is less stress on the connections.
Judging from the blue Teflon, the guy was a plumber. I’ve worked with a plumber doing irrigation, let’s just say he had his ideas and I had mine 🙄
@@reAllyNoWayyy I heard that 😆
Could be 40c which is a stronger 40
How do you take the valve off it you have to replace the valve.😊
You unscrew it
@@jerseyshoredrainagesolutions DO a video with the same mockup let's see.
Just change out the guts
Or just use one step 😂
That’s not how you put manifolds together …
I don't know.. no room to fix down the road...they will leak... to close together...
They worked
Good point
Until u need to change a crack valve you will spend more on repairs
Please do not use thread tape on plastic threads.
Slop job even if it’s going to be buried
DIYers
what a joke 😂