Did you stack all the laterals in one trench? See this mistake made all the time. The valves set up looks clean and well laid out. Most of the time install companies who don't do maintenance stack and never deal with break issues. By stacking the lines you just made a simple repair much more costly. Don't stack your laterals especially over the mainline. Always leave ample room between each one.
Kelly, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Although, I am feeling a little weird at the moment. As I am watching this video, I noticed from the surroundings that I am literally across the street from where you were filming at!
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
Situation: I have a manifold setup for 3 zones. Meaning, 3 valves. All 3 are connected to the "common" wire of course. I just replaced two outer valves and left old one in the middle. Question: If that middle valve with old solenoid is bad...would it also prohibit the 2 new ones from turning on from main control box (not to be confused with manually turning on)? Was thinking maybe so considering all 3 are connected via common wire. Thx!
It sounds like it could be a connection problem. Check all your splices. The middle valve solenoid should not cause the others not to work, but it might be a good idea to test that solenoid and make sure it is good.
Love the use of the shut valve for the 3 zones. I work on HOAs irrigation and no shuts offs. 90+ zones , one valve has an issuer and the whole system is down. And the time to drain the main lot work on it. Thanks for the informative videos
I know what you mean. I have worked on systems like that so now I always incorporate shuts offs as much as I can. I put one on every valve for a while and have backed off that but still do it from time to time depending on the job.
Teflon is a thread lubricant the threads do the sealing and less teflon is better. Like your videos it helps irrigation is not my speciality I’m a submarine pipefitter by trade.
So i have three valves that i need to connect to the sprinkler programmer but one valve is in the front yard which is quite aways from the box. The other valves are behind the box but I'm confused on how to connect the common wire to all three valves. Would I have to cut it? Run two common wires?
I think I can picture what you have and are asking. So if I was installing this, I would come out of the controller with a multi strand wire, 18 gauge, 5 strand wire, and take that wire to the first valve box and first valves. Then I would either continue that 18/5 to the front or maybe just an 18/3 strand to the valve in the front. You would splice the common in the first valve box. For instance, If you use the white wire for the common, you would splice the white wire form both strands of wire with one wire from each solenoid in the first valve box. This would continue the common to the valve in the front. Kindof hard to explain. Or If you are using single strand wire, it may be easier to run a separate common and power to the valve in front. And then put both common wires in the common terminal in the controller. So you can do either one. If you decide to cut it and splice it, make sure you do the splice in the valve box and alway use weather proof wire connectors. I hope this makes sense and helps.
@@AmericanIrrigator So splice or use 2 common wires. Got it! If I were to splice, do i have to twist them together at the end of the common wire or just somewhere on the common?
u briefly showed a "drip" device on one of the valves---what is the purpose of this versus the other valves. Should you use the "drip" devise on all valves is they are all servicing Drip emitters???
The one valve that service the bed areas we have drip irrigation in, has a Y filter with a pressure regulator built in. We use this set up on all drip zones. The other valves serve the grass areas with spray heads. We don’t usually put Y filters or pressure regulators on those zones. Hope this helps.
Hi there, I had baught a irragation valve for a small sprinkler system. But they turn on OK. Bit when I cut the power it still sprays, any idea why as there new. I'm so Confused
It could be that there is something stuck in the valve like a rock. In this case you will need to shut the water off and take the valve apart. That is the most common reason for a valve to stick open.
@@AmericanIrrigator that's what I taught but it seams that pulling any thing downstream from the value that reduces the flow allows it to close. I'm at a loss
Great video my question is I want to install 9 zones for my garden area and was wondering do I have to have all 9 zones hooked up to the same common wire or do they make timers with multiple common wire input connections
Good Question. Yes, you will connect all 9 zones to the same common wire. So one wire coming out of the solenoid will go to the power wire you designate, one power wire to each solenoid. In a 9 zone system with 9 different valves, you will have at least 9 different power wires or hot wires if you want to say that. Then the other wire coming out of each solenoid will go to a common wire. We usual use just one common wire and hook all valve ( solenoids ) to that common. If there are multiple valve boxes, you will run that same common into all the valve boxes. Which with 9 valves, you are going to want to have multiple valve boxes to give your self plenty of room for servicing. Most controllers have only one or two common wire inputs. I hope this answers your question.
It is possible, but it seems like something might have caused this like a lightning strike or a power surge. The first thing to do is test the solenoids to make sure they are bad and there is not a wire cut or nicked somewhere.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thank you for your answer . I two videos that suggested that I probably caused this problem by manually turning on the zones with the bad solenoid . I will see . I ordered three new solenoids . They will be in next week . Thanks again 👍 .
I get asked that question a lot and the short answer is, it depends. Water supply, pressure, size of pipe are some of the main factors that determine how many heads you can put per zone. Also what type of sprinkler head you are using and what size of nozzle, also the size of area comes into play. There are a lot of factors to consider. Sometimes it 5, other times its 10,15,20. Every job is different some way. I do know some guys who say 5 heads per zone, but I steer away from settling in with flat numbesr like that. Hope this helps some.
I put the valves in order that makes sense to the layout of the landscape. The valve on the left will run the zone on the left. This makes it real easy to maintain and check the zone and sprinklers. Did this answer your question? I hope this makes sense.
Hey, what valves are you using in this video. I have the same ones at my house and one went bad. I'm trying to replace it but can't figure out what to look for. Also for whatever reason, I have 3 zones wired to one valve and 3 to a second valve. I'm not sure how 1 valve it controlling multiple zones. Any ideas?
These valves are Rain Bird PGA valves. 1 inch. I’m not sure what you have going on. I would have to see if maybe to figure it out. Typically you should have one power wire going to each valve to turn on each zone one at a time. Not sure.
@@Bean_cheese_runner I will be adding 2 more valves to an existing system which is done in poly pipe. I'm so used to pc, I'm too old to learn a new way. This will probably be the last install I'll ever do. Plus I've got a lot of left over pic parts I can use. If I was a young wipper snapper, I would definitely learn the poly.
Yes it can be. I try to leave some space between the manifold and the valve and the valve and the first fitting , so in the event of a break you still have some pipe to glue to.
I have seen a lot of guys use poly especially up north. I have been wanting to try doing some. I may get crazy and do a job with poly this year. Thanks.
@@AmericanIrrigator I worked on 3 miles of commercial irrigation (12 clocks, 110 zones, 1000+ heads) and I suggest you run from anything other than PVC. Nothing is as reliable as PVC; I don’t know what kind of fittings are used with poly, but if any of the connections barbed avoid them. Something like PEX, even if it’s rated to, is not going to last in the ground. Someone will eventually find your line even if they were “confident they knew where it was” with an excavator.
I don’t work on sprinkler systems other than my own. Yet zone valves you can just swap solenoid or replace guts and leave body. It’s what I do when repairing a boiler zone valve. Yet I am new to sprinklers
I’ve been doing sprinklers for work for 1 month and I think I’m already better than you lol . No pre manufactured manifold? Hunter pgv is the best. And stacking like everyone else mentioned.
Why use threaded valves with male adapters if you're gonna put the valves so close together that you can't unscrew the valve from the male adapter. You might as well use slip valves and save yourself the male adapters. I'm glad I'm not in West Texas, I would not want to work on one of your installs.
Thank god you didn’t put rocks in there like some of these morons do. The rocks will be filled with dirt in 6 months and they make it hard to dig up the valve. They serve no real purpose at all. They look nice at first though but that’s about it
AFTER YOUR GONE ... THE ONE ON THE LEFT IS NOW THE ONE ON THE RIGHT.... AND THE ONE ON THE RIGHT IS THE ONE ON THE LEFT...... AND THE ONE IN THE MIDDLE ...... WELL IT'S A POLITICIAN........... WHEN YOUR GONE NO ONE IS GOING TO KNOW WHAT THE HELL YOU DID..... AND YOU WILL MAKE SURE OF THAT BY TAKING THE DRAWING WITH YOU............
Watch this video next for more valve installation tips. ua-cam.com/video/VaQEBpEcTqg/v-deo.html
Finally someone that explains things start to finish clearly! Thank you
Did you stack all the laterals in one trench? See this mistake made all the time. The valves set up looks clean and well laid out. Most of the time install companies who don't do maintenance stack and never deal with break issues. By stacking the lines you just made a simple repair much more costly. Don't stack your laterals especially over the mainline. Always leave ample room between each one.
Exactly. This clown is preaching organization then stacks lines.
As a maintenance man at a condo I immediately thought, holy shit is that gonna be a nightmare to repair WHEN there's a break.
Hate seeing stacked lines like that. Repair nightmare
1:22 lmao sorry that part cracked me up. Good video 👍
Kelly, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Although, I am feeling a little weird at the moment. As I am watching this video, I noticed from the surroundings that I am literally across the street from where you were filming at!
Thanks for putting your experience into these videos. What brand is that shutoff you're using?
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
Situation: I have a manifold setup for 3 zones. Meaning, 3 valves. All 3 are connected to the "common" wire of course. I just replaced two outer valves and left old one in the middle.
Question: If that middle valve with old solenoid is bad...would it also prohibit the 2 new ones from turning on from main control box (not to be confused with manually turning on)? Was thinking maybe so considering all 3 are connected via common wire.
Thx!
It sounds like it could be a connection problem. Check all your splices. The middle valve solenoid should not cause the others not to work, but it might be a good idea to test that solenoid and make sure it is good.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thank you! Going to check today.
Love the use of the shut valve for the 3 zones. I work on HOAs irrigation and no shuts offs. 90+ zones , one valve has an issuer and the whole system is down. And the time to drain the main lot work on it. Thanks for the informative videos
I know what you mean. I have worked on systems like that so now I always incorporate shuts offs as much as I can. I put one on every valve for a while and have backed off that but still do it from time to time depending on the job.
Teflon is a thread lubricant the threads do the sealing and less teflon is better. Like your videos it helps irrigation is not my speciality I’m a submarine pipefitter by trade.
So i have three valves that i need to connect to the sprinkler programmer but one valve is in the front yard which is quite aways from the box. The other valves are behind the box but I'm confused on how to connect the common wire to all three valves. Would I have to cut it? Run two common wires?
I think I can picture what you have and are asking. So if I was installing this, I would come out of the controller with a multi strand wire, 18 gauge, 5 strand wire, and take that wire to the first valve box and first valves. Then I would either continue that 18/5 to the front or maybe just an 18/3 strand to the valve in the front. You would splice the common in the first valve box. For instance, If you use the white wire for the common, you would splice the white wire form both strands of wire with one wire from each solenoid in the first valve box. This would continue the common to the valve in the front. Kindof hard to explain. Or If you are using single strand wire, it may be easier to run a separate common and power to the valve in front. And then put both common wires in the common terminal in the controller. So you can do either one. If you decide to cut it and splice it, make sure you do the splice in the valve box and alway use weather proof wire connectors. I hope this makes sense and helps.
@@AmericanIrrigator So splice or use 2 common wires. Got it! If I were to splice, do i have to twist them together at the end of the common wire or just somewhere on the common?
u briefly showed a "drip" device on one of the valves---what is the purpose of this versus the other valves. Should you use the "drip" devise on all valves is they are all servicing Drip emitters???
The one valve that service the bed areas we have drip irrigation in, has a Y filter with a pressure regulator built in. We use this set up on all drip zones. The other valves serve the grass areas with spray heads. We don’t usually put Y filters or pressure regulators on those zones. Hope this helps.
@@AmericanIrrigator thanks so much. I don't have grass (California ) so everything I plant is on drip. This tip will really help me.
Hi there, I had baught a irragation valve for a small sprinkler system. But they turn on OK. Bit when I cut the power it still sprays, any idea why as there new. I'm so Confused
It could be that there is something stuck in the valve like a rock. In this case you will need to shut the water off and take the valve apart. That is the most common reason for a valve to stick open.
@@AmericanIrrigator that's what I taught but it seams that pulling any thing downstream from the value that reduces the flow allows it to close. I'm at a loss
This may be a time when you have to call a professional to come out and look at it.
Great video my question is I want to install 9 zones for my garden area and was wondering do I have to have all 9 zones hooked up to the same common wire or do they make timers with multiple common wire input connections
Good Question. Yes, you will connect all 9 zones to the same common wire. So one wire coming out of the solenoid will go to the power wire you designate, one power wire to each solenoid. In a 9 zone system with 9 different valves, you will have at least 9 different power wires or hot wires if you want to say that. Then the other wire coming out of each solenoid will go to a common wire. We usual use just one common wire and hook all valve ( solenoids ) to that common. If there are multiple valve boxes, you will run that same common into all the valve boxes. Which with 9 valves, you are going to want to have multiple valve boxes to give your self plenty of room for servicing. Most controllers have only one or two common wire inputs. I hope this answers your question.
@@AmericanIrrigator thanks for the help that's what I was thinking
Is it possible that 3 different solenoids went bad within days of each other in a 15 year old sprinkler system ?
It is possible, but it seems like something might have caused this like a lightning strike or a power surge. The first thing to do is test the solenoids to make sure they are bad and there is not a wire cut or nicked somewhere.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thank you for your answer . I two videos that suggested that I probably caused this problem by manually turning on the zones with the bad solenoid . I will see . I ordered three new solenoids . They will be in next week . Thanks again 👍 .
we use 1 valve for each box. those look like 1" valves? but I would do no more than 2 per box
Great job! How many sprinkler heads do you put on each valve?
I get asked that question a lot and the short answer is, it depends. Water supply, pressure, size of pipe are some of the main factors that determine how many heads you can put per zone. Also what type of sprinkler head you are using and what size of nozzle, also the size of area comes into play. There are a lot of factors to consider. Sometimes it 5, other times its 10,15,20. Every job is different some way. I do know some guys who say 5 heads per zone, but I steer away from settling in with flat numbesr like that. Hope this helps some.
wait, do i put them in order the way i install it.
I put the valves in order that makes sense to the layout of the landscape. The valve on the left will run the zone on the left. This makes it real easy to maintain and check the zone and sprinklers. Did this answer your question? I hope this makes sense.
Hey, what valves are you using in this video. I have the same ones at my house and one went bad. I'm trying to replace it but can't figure out what to look for. Also for whatever reason, I have 3 zones wired to one valve and 3 to a second valve. I'm not sure how 1 valve it controlling multiple zones. Any ideas?
These valves are Rain Bird PGA valves. 1 inch. I’m not sure what you have going on. I would have to see if maybe to figure it out. Typically you should have one power wire going to each valve to turn on each zone one at a time. Not sure.
@@AmericanIrrigator if this guy didn't follow and like your video he's/she's an asshole!
We do our manifolds like this, looks great. We use poly coming out though.
Thanks. I see a lot of guys in different ares using poly. I would like to learn more about it and possibly use it in more of our installations.
You’ll love it, easy to work with, no glueing
@@Bean_cheese_runner I will be adding 2 more valves to an existing system which is done in poly pipe. I'm so used to pc, I'm too old to learn a new way. This will probably be the last install I'll ever do. Plus I've got a lot of left over pic parts I can use. If I was a young wipper snapper, I would definitely learn the poly.
If you don’t know what an action manifold is you’re missing out.
@@davidsenter8002 facts they are king
Aren't you supposed to have the antisiphon valves 6 inches above the highest emission point?
Yes. But These particular valves are Rain Bird PEB valves that do not have the anti siphon part on them so they can be in a valve box at any level.
that manifold is gonna be a hell of a repair when it cracks
Yes it can be. I try to leave some space between the manifold and the valve and the valve and the first fitting , so in the event of a break you still have some pipe to glue to.
You might have to dig up valve box to turn off ball valve the handle looks like it won't clear the box
Switch to Poly, it will save so much time and make jobs look a lot cleaner when your done. I like your organization!
I have seen a lot of guys use poly especially up north. I have been wanting to try doing some. I may get crazy and do a job with poly this year. Thanks.
@@AmericanIrrigator I worked on 3 miles of commercial irrigation (12 clocks, 110 zones, 1000+ heads) and I suggest you run from anything other than PVC. Nothing is as reliable as PVC; I don’t know what kind of fittings are used with poly, but if any of the connections barbed avoid them. Something like PEX, even if it’s rated to, is not going to last in the ground. Someone will eventually find your line even if they were “confident they knew where it was” with an excavator.
good install but I prefer use unions in each valve
with good pressure hehe
Unions are good. Makes any kind of repair very easy. We did a job that had unions specified and I did like it.
I don’t work on sprinkler systems other than my own. Yet zone valves you can just swap solenoid or replace guts and leave body. It’s what I do when repairing a boiler zone valve. Yet I am new to sprinklers
Where’s your backflow protection
I’ve been doing sprinklers for work for 1 month and I think I’m already better than you lol . No pre manufactured manifold? Hunter pgv is the best. And stacking like everyone else mentioned.
YOU LOST ME WHEN YOU SAID YOU HAVE TO PLAN AHEAD........ I HAVE NEVER HAD A PLAN IN MY LIFE.. WORKS OUT GOOD SOMETIMES...........
Why use threaded valves with male adapters if you're gonna put the valves so close together that you can't unscrew the valve from the male adapter. You might as well use slip valves and save yourself the male adapters. I'm glad I'm not in West Texas, I would not want to work on one of your installs.
Please people, follow a professional, tees that close together is a no-no.
Thank god you didn’t put rocks in there like some of these morons do. The rocks will be filled with dirt in 6 months and they make it hard to dig up the valve. They serve no real purpose at all. They look nice at first though but that’s about it
AFTER YOUR GONE ... THE ONE ON THE LEFT IS NOW THE ONE ON THE RIGHT.... AND THE ONE ON THE RIGHT IS THE ONE ON THE LEFT...... AND THE ONE IN THE MIDDLE ...... WELL IT'S A POLITICIAN........... WHEN YOUR GONE NO ONE IS GOING TO KNOW WHAT THE HELL YOU DID..... AND YOU WILL MAKE SURE OF THAT BY TAKING THE DRAWING WITH YOU............
A methodist