I just want everybody to know that the fundamental principles of how all manufacturers ecm's work is the same. Understanding how all modules just put a certain voltage out, and read voltages back in.. and how this principle just repeats itself over and over again. This will allow you to understand how All control modules work.
@@liljamesjames1884 I agree it can definitely get way more complicated. But from an automotive diagnosis perspective even a digital relay or digital sensors at some point will revert that Digital Signal back into a DC analog signal. Usually the digital aspect of a control module is only to fly by wire or communicate over vast distances.
@@BrockTemple87 Step 1 Turn the ignition switch to the on position but do not start the car. Count three seconds and then press the gas pedal to the floor and let it up five times in five seconds or less. Step 2 Count seven seconds, depress the gas pedal and hold it down for 10 seconds or until the service engine soon light begins flashing. Lift the pedal and begin to make a note of the codes. Each code will be a series of four numbers. Count the flashes from one to 10, 10 being 0. This will be the first number, then there will be a short pause of around a half second and it will begin flashing the second number. After the fourth number is flashed there will be a longer pause and the computer will flash the next fault code, if there is more than one. If there is only one fault code it will simply keep repeating this code. If the computer keeps flashing a 10 code, this means that there are no fault codes. After retrieving the codes turn the ignition off. Step 3 Cross-reference the fault codes with the code sheet for a description of the problem. Repair the problem before attempting to reset the computer. Erase the codes and reset the computer, which will turn the light off, by repeating the first two steps, but when the light begins flashing, hold the gas pedal down until it stops flashing and turn the key off. The computer has now been reset.
Thank you for the amazing video. The pedal dance didn't fix my 03 Infiniti G35 ether. I'm actually working on it again after having it sit for almost a year. Because of your video I now know my ECU isn't bad. Again thx.
Came across this video but i dont know if your still reaponding since it so old, i have a 2002 maxima se 3.5 that continues to give me a battery light with a brake light and an abs light and goes into limp mode pretty much NO throttle response and it wont go over like 3 mph, we have done an alternator, battery, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs, ignition coils; throttle body, a wheel bearing in the front right that was bad, ive looked at abs sensor data, crank and cam data, charging data, it has no check engine light and no codes, i did notice that when the car goes into limp mode the alternator charges the battery from 14.2 to over 15 volts. At one point the three lights that i mentioned in the beginning battery brake and abs where flickering on then off when i would high rev it by stabing the accelerator pedal and as soon as the rpms settled back down they went away, i turn off the car then turn it back on they go away, but come back after a bit of driving…im stumped on were to look next, if you see this please i can send you my phone number so that you can contact me, im just at a loss of where to start next
I have to use the smallest push wire couplings I can find. And try to only do the family of wires I need. The ECU is a nightmare. The wad of wires coming out of the back is almost not worth approaching. I do everything under hood and as close to the part as possible because once you get to the back of the ECU it's almost impossible to move. That's why I test these things at the pedal and at the throttle body and at the mass airflow sensor because getting any closer to the ECU gets well you know
And then you push the multimeter into the couplings? Yeah, I imagine doing things at the ECU is a pain... your advice is awesome, so i think what I'm going to do is clear it (pedal dance) than read the codes when they come back, verify them with your voltage investigation suggestions.
@@nickjohnso I would never have anything sharp enough to jabb those wires without doing some kind of moronic catastrophic damage. I pretty much have to put those little push connectors and a little foot long piece of wire on everything.
Try to look up the pedal dance the Nissan reset your engine control module pedal dance. it's like twist the key three times tap the break. I can't remember the steps you'll have to look it up.
2009 maxima 2122, 2138, 0222, 0123, 0340, 0345, 0643 Unfortunately I replaced most of my parts and I'm still getting my codes in my car so it's safe to say I may have a ECM problem..... Just trying to figure out what the next move for me need to be other then a voltage check
Sorry for the long message in advance but can you just read it I think you have my answer to my problem and just want to be 100% sure so I don’t buy a transmission next So just to make sure im understanding this correct because I’m actually having this same issue and literally just paid for a valve body assembly cause I did get the code but I got a fuel code first then replaced fuel pump then got idle code changed throttle body the got a pressure solenoid A code which is why I’m now buying the valve body I had a friend connect his snap on computer and then got a list of codes first code to come up is ecu comm. and then I found your video so basically what your saying is each code that came up I need to check them and see if voltage matches manufacture spec that’s in the manual and whichever one that doesn’t is the one causing the shortage throwing it in limp mode. I apologize for the long message but watching your video is the only one that makes sense cause I thought I needed to get a new transmission but the car doesn’t get stuck shifting caus I throw it in manual and shift threw the gears like that because usually I’m able to keel it outta limp mode that way until I stop then I get put in limp mode and have to restart my car every time
Great video Karl! I’m having a issue with my moms 03 max doing the same we put a new throttle body did the relearn but can’t hear the butterfly move at all the pedal seems dead it revs up just a hair over 1000 even with the throttle body disconnected I’m stumped🤔 any help thanks
Hi Karl. I know this vid was made 3yrs ago. But any possibly on knowing where you found this information? What website? I know its a long shot but would be extremely helpful. Thank you
Sup bud,good stuff 👍 I had some isue similar so i noticed the maf plug for my 11 altima was kind of burnt,i decided to cut it thinking i was going to find a pigtail,Worst thing iv done cause i lost the corect order cause the pins came off....Took a trip to junk yard and got me a plug but colors don't match 😒 Can u give me any suggestion plz,appreciate it man
So if you go into "EC" or engine control manual. The beginning of the 2000s to 2011 they're all the same. If you're willing to look through the engine control manual for your car's you will find the wiring diagram for the mass air flow sensor. This will allow you to color correct your wire harness. It's only six wires. www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals#maxima
The codes that i have are p1701 p0826 P0725 P0744. Any help? I know that the first ones i stated were first one a blown fuse due to transmission issue Second is manual mode up and down switch input circuit Third Engine speed input And last one the big one is torque converter clutch circuit intermittent/clutch solenoid valve function
Ok my nissan altima 05 once when i start it an drive .it drive fine but it will start slow down i push the padle all the way down to the floor an it still drive slow an sometimes cut off
I have a 2004 Nissan quest and I’m assuming limp mode is what happened to me today where it wouldn’t go over 2000 RPM and it would drive. I put the $20 scan tool which I actually came back and told me that crankshaft position sensor one was faulty or something and also sensor. now I have like six codes after limp mode with the weirdest things on it some of them say manufacturer control P1800. She bought this minivan when I sold my Cadillac because I couldn’t drive since I had fractured my back. it’s her dream car and I hate seeing her cry because I was in bed unable to get up and she bought it from this deceiving man on Facebook who won’t help he takes the car to get it fixed within the first weeks it was already running bad. To top it off they wound up crashing the bumper at the mechanics shop. The man said it was like that but he had sent a pic with mechanics looking in engine bay and bumper was perfect. the man just popped up the dent. Sorry to rant I’m just angry at how he took advantage of a girl thinking she won’t do anything. I’m taking him to court if he does not reimburse money. Sorry for me venting. I have just one question. I got the van for $2000 and I want to believe that it can be fixed but seeing how much frustration the commenters and yourself are going through makes me want to just sell it and lose thousand dollars worth of money. I saw your comment on how to reset the EC you to get it out of the limo I will try that see if it works. It also gave me today with the random mother six coats it said random misfire in one of the cylinders because it’s a $20 scan to I’m assuming that’s why it doesn’t tell you which one. I will subscribe like and share thank you so much God bless
Very few codes will actually send the car into safe mode. It's usually a fuel or drive train issue. A crankshaft position sensor will make the car run absolutely horrible. If you have a bad crankshaft position sensor the engine light will flash. And will be difficult to start and backfire if it chooses to run it all. And I don't trust $300 code readers. I definitely wouldn't trust the $20 one. Similarly to what I described a $20 code reader would only tell you what circuit is getting low values. So it would kind of point you in a direction to what system has the low value but wouldn't point to the specific one. A tip I can give you is just know that things that are on the same pin circuit tend to have the same connector style. when you familiarize yourself with Nissan engines you'll notice you'll be able to tell what system something is on just by the shape of its connector. Good luck..
Thank you for replying back I’m thinking of just cutting my losses and selling it. It just sucks that I bought a set of new tires for it. Again thank you and God bless.
I change pedal i changed mas air i changed throttle body took all part of my other max thats working fine still nada so next i must check voltage .? Thanks for the help
Hi, I have a 2003 maxima and my car throws a P0650 code. It’s been like this for over a year and I can’t seem to find the solution to this. I can’t rev past 2500 rpm and can’t drive past 70mph. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
It's the transmission control module which is located on the top of the fender well in the front. elongated connector with six pin.. or you just Google transmission control module for the Nissan Maxima
We have a 2010 Sentra throwing a P0101 and P0603. Originally it was telling us the ECU was bad (code said it was losing communication with ECU) which was confirmed by ECU specialist. We were able to replace the ECU got it recoded and the car now starts and runs however it is still throwing these other two codes mentioned above and once you drive the car it will hit the rev limiter at roughly 2000 rpms and has little to no acceleration. I have done the pedal dance and replaced the MAF and we are still having the same issues. Do you have any advice or pointers on where to look next?
Have you checked for continuity between the ECU and the mass air flow sensor? It's corresponding location on the ECU? It's a nightmare getting to those parts...
Hi I got a 09 pathfinder I replaced the won't start I replaced the pedal now start but after a mile or less it won't accelerate turn off turned back on is fine but it will not accelerate
Your issue is exactly what I'm describing in this video. If you've replaced everything you need to pull the brain out and see if there's conductive goo dripping down the board. And then you have to check the wiring. I know it's a nightmare I wish I could give you a better news but it sounds like you have an electrical issue in the wire itself..
I’m not sure what problem my car is but legit I replaced the throttle body then it says my pedal sensor then I replaced that and then it says something else for my throttle body
@@visualz.j9801 sounds like you got to do that clip trick and actually read the voltage going through the pedal.. it's only six wires. Two of them are ground.
I'm throwing some crazy azz codes and my shit won't start..... 2123, 2138, 0222, 0123, 0643, 0340, 0345 .... So I guess I gotta volt check all this shit...... It's a 2009 maxima I replaced all these parts accept throttle body... I get a crank and no start issue
So I am getting a p1122 and a p1612 code on my 02 maxima. Car just cranks but will not fire. Any ideas on what I should be checking? I’ve replaced crank and cam sensors so far.
The batt light abs keeps comin on and its in limp mode then wont go at all the car trys to pull but just sticks at 1500 rpm unless i let off and give it gas again in wich case ot takes out fast then does it again
@@liljamesjames1884 Assuming you bleed the s*** out of the brake system. Checked the anti-lock braking system pickups on the spindle bearing in the front hub assembly. Could just be dirt on the magnetometer. And you should be doing the pedal dance to clear that from the system not disconnecting the battery.
@@liljamesjames1884 ABS is a long check list. You have to find out what codes it's shooting. Check your fuses. Check for air. Check your pickups. (The little magnets behind the wheel) Make sure that those systems are getting proper voltage.
@@liljamesjames1884 If you want me to simplify it the car is in safe mode which means something in the ABS system is getting low voltage readings. Or no reading at all. like the float in the master cylinder reservoir is stuck or to low or one of those magnets in the front wheel is disconnected or iron rich soil gunked on it. it's getting low voltage somewhere.
@@oldestries Just out of curiosity. Did you ever test for power at any of these areas? I was just curious if you would have the 2 1/2 and 5 volt power with this issue on your e c m
It was related with the power indeed. But a bit different from yours. When I check for power from the ecm it looks like nothing is going on like its working just fine but the culprit is whenever I plugged in the coil pack, then its started to be given out a messy group of voltages reading back & forth. Making my car idling very roughly let alone to drive it. I actually were driving when it started to happen. And luckily I could reached my home that evening while others sometimes couldnt.
I just want everybody to know that the fundamental principles of how all manufacturers ecm's work is the same. Understanding how all modules just put a certain voltage out, and read voltages back in.. and how this principle just repeats itself over and over again. This will allow you to understand how All control modules work.
But with inreased parameters and digital relays there becoming algorithm orientation
@@liljamesjames1884 I agree it can definitely get way more complicated. But from an automotive diagnosis perspective even a digital relay or digital sensors at some point will revert that Digital Signal back into a DC analog signal. Usually the digital aspect of a control module is only to fly by wire or communicate over vast distances.
How do i reset it??
@@BrockTemple87
Step 1
Turn the ignition switch to the on position but do not start the car. Count three seconds and then press the gas pedal to the floor and let it up five times in five seconds or less.
Step 2
Count seven seconds, depress the gas pedal and hold it down for 10 seconds or until the service engine soon light begins flashing. Lift the pedal and begin to make a note of the codes. Each code will be a series of four numbers. Count the flashes from one to 10, 10 being 0. This will be the first number, then there will be a short pause of around a half second and it will begin flashing the second number. After the fourth number is flashed there will be a longer pause and the computer will flash the next fault code, if there is more than one. If there is only one fault code it will simply keep repeating this code. If the computer keeps flashing a 10 code, this means that there are no fault codes. After retrieving the codes turn the ignition off.
Step 3
Cross-reference the fault codes with the code sheet for a description of the problem. Repair the problem before attempting to reset the computer.
Erase the codes and reset the computer, which will turn the light off, by repeating the first two steps, but when the light begins flashing, hold the gas pedal down until it stops flashing and turn the key off. The computer has now been reset.
@@karlwashere123 i was referring to limp mode. Im working on my teenagers car
Thank you for the amazing video. The pedal dance didn't fix my 03 Infiniti G35 ether. I'm actually working on it again after having it sit for almost a year. Because of your video I now know my ECU isn't bad. Again thx.
Great video i think you are the only person that know this. Thanks helped alot .no need to edit ppl should get it lol
Hi Karlwashere ; thank you for your video it really helps and like you said it does get complicated but very much appreciated for taking your time ,
Thanks man..
Came across this video but i dont know if your still reaponding since it so old, i have a 2002 maxima se 3.5 that continues to give me a battery light with a brake light and an abs light and goes into limp mode pretty much NO throttle response and it wont go over like 3 mph, we have done an alternator, battery, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs, ignition coils; throttle body, a wheel bearing in the front right that was bad, ive looked at abs sensor data, crank and cam data, charging data, it has no check engine light and no codes, i did notice that when the car goes into limp mode the alternator charges the battery from 14.2 to over 15 volts. At one point the three lights that i mentioned in the beginning battery brake and abs where flickering on then off when i would high rev it by stabing the accelerator pedal and as soon as the rpms settled back down they went away, i turn off the car then turn it back on they go away, but come back after a bit of driving…im stumped on were to look next, if you see this please i can send you my phone number so that you can contact me, im just at a loss of where to start next
Excellent info..how do you actually go about testing the voltage? Do you stick a multimeter into the wires?
I have to use the smallest push wire couplings I can find. And try to only do the family of wires I need. The ECU is a nightmare. The wad of wires coming out of the back is almost not worth approaching. I do everything under hood and as close to the part as possible because once you get to the back of the ECU it's almost impossible to move. That's why I test these things at the pedal and at the throttle body and at the mass airflow sensor because getting any closer to the ECU gets well you know
And then you push the multimeter into the couplings?
Yeah, I imagine doing things at the ECU is a pain... your advice is awesome, so i think what I'm going to do is clear it (pedal dance) than read the codes when they come back, verify them with your voltage investigation suggestions.
@@nickjohnso I would never have anything sharp enough to jabb those wires without doing some kind of moronic catastrophic damage. I pretty much have to put those little push connectors and a little foot long piece of wire on everything.
Hi i replaced my alternator..and now my car is in safe mode and the power comes on then the dash goes black ..can someone help me
Try to look up the pedal dance the Nissan reset your engine control module pedal dance. it's like twist the key three times tap the break. I can't remember the steps you'll have to look it up.
2009 maxima
2122, 2138, 0222, 0123, 0340, 0345, 0643 Unfortunately I replaced most of my parts and I'm still getting my codes in my car so it's safe to say I may have a ECM problem..... Just trying to figure out what the next move for me need to be other then a voltage check
Sorry for the long message in advance but can you just read it I think you have my answer to my problem and just want to be 100% sure so I don’t buy a transmission next So just to make sure im understanding this correct because I’m actually having this same issue and literally just paid for a valve body assembly cause I did get the code but I got a fuel code first then replaced fuel pump then got idle code changed throttle body the got a pressure solenoid A code which is why I’m now buying the valve body I had a friend connect his snap on computer and then got a list of codes first code to come up is ecu comm. and then I found your video so basically what your saying is each code that came up I need to check them and see if voltage matches manufacture spec that’s in the manual and whichever one that doesn’t is the one causing the shortage throwing it in limp mode. I apologize for the long message but watching your video is the only one that makes sense cause I thought I needed to get a new transmission but the car doesn’t get stuck shifting caus I throw it in manual and shift threw the gears like that because usually I’m able to keel it outta limp mode that way until I stop then I get put in limp mode and have to restart my car every time
Great video Karl! I’m having a issue with my moms 03 max doing the same we put a new throttle body did the relearn but can’t hear the butterfly move at all the pedal seems dead it revs up just a hair over 1000 even with the throttle body disconnected I’m stumped🤔 any help thanks
Hi Karl. I know this vid was made 3yrs ago. But any possibly on knowing where you found this information? What website? I know its a long shot but would be extremely helpful. Thank you
www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals#maxima
My 2010 Altima no power in drive or reverse help
Sup bud,good stuff 👍
I had some isue similar so i noticed the maf plug for my 11 altima was kind of burnt,i decided to cut it thinking i was going to find a pigtail,Worst thing iv done cause i lost the corect order cause the pins came off....Took a trip to junk yard and got me a plug but colors don't match 😒
Can u give me any suggestion plz,appreciate it man
So if you go into "EC" or engine control manual. The beginning of the 2000s to 2011 they're all the same. If you're willing to look through the engine control manual for your car's you will find the wiring diagram for the mass air flow sensor. This will allow you to color correct your wire harness. It's only six wires.
www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals#maxima
The codes that i have are p1701 p0826
P0725
P0744. Any help? I know that the first ones i stated were first one a blown fuse due to transmission issue
Second is manual mode up and down switch input circuit
Third Engine speed input
And last one the big one is torque converter clutch circuit intermittent/clutch solenoid valve function
Ok my nissan altima 05 once when i start it an drive .it drive fine but it will start slow down i push the padle all the way down to the floor an it still drive slow an sometimes cut off
I have a 2004 Nissan quest and I’m assuming limp mode is what happened to me today where it wouldn’t go over 2000 RPM and it would drive. I put the $20 scan tool which I actually came back and told me that crankshaft position sensor one was faulty or something and also sensor. now I have like six codes after limp mode with the weirdest things on it some of them say manufacturer control P1800. She bought this minivan when I sold my Cadillac because I couldn’t drive since I had fractured my back. it’s her dream car and I hate seeing her cry because I was in bed unable to get up and she bought it from this deceiving man on Facebook who won’t help he takes the car to get it fixed within the first weeks it was already running bad. To top it off they wound up crashing the bumper at the mechanics shop. The man said it was like that but he had sent a pic with mechanics looking in engine bay and bumper was perfect. the man just popped up the dent. Sorry to rant I’m just angry at how he took advantage of a girl thinking she won’t do anything. I’m taking him to court if he does not reimburse money.
Sorry for me venting. I have just one question. I got the van for $2000 and I want to believe that it can be fixed but seeing how much frustration the commenters and yourself are going through makes me want to just sell it and lose thousand dollars worth of money. I saw your comment on how to reset the EC you to get it out of the limo I will try that see if it works. It also gave me today with the random mother six coats it said random misfire in one of the cylinders because it’s a $20 scan to I’m assuming that’s why it doesn’t tell you which one. I will subscribe like and share thank you so much God bless
Very few codes will actually send the car into safe mode. It's usually a fuel or drive train issue. A crankshaft position sensor will make the car run absolutely horrible. If you have a bad crankshaft position sensor the engine light will flash. And will be difficult to start and backfire if it chooses to run it all. And I don't trust $300 code readers. I definitely wouldn't trust the $20 one. Similarly to what I described a $20 code reader would only tell you what circuit is getting low values. So it would kind of point you in a direction to what system has the low value but wouldn't point to the specific one. A tip I can give you is just know that things that are on the same pin circuit tend to have the same connector style. when you familiarize yourself with Nissan engines you'll notice you'll be able to tell what system something is on just by the shape of its connector. Good luck..
Thank you for replying back I’m thinking of just cutting my losses and selling it. It just sucks that I bought a set of new tires for it. Again thank you and God bless.
I change pedal i changed mas air i changed throttle body took all part of my other max thats working fine still nada so next i must check voltage .? Thanks for the help
Hi, I have a 2003 maxima and my car throws a P0650 code. It’s been like this for over a year and I can’t seem to find the solution to this. I can’t rev past 2500 rpm and can’t drive past 70mph. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
It's the transmission control module which is located on the top of the fender well in the front. elongated connector with six pin.. or you just Google transmission control module for the Nissan Maxima
Hi I wonder how you complete disable safe mode complete for ever or how to supply voltage to that pin so safe mode won't initiate
We have a 2010 Sentra throwing a P0101 and P0603. Originally it was telling us the ECU was bad (code said it was losing communication with ECU) which was confirmed by ECU specialist. We were able to replace the ECU got it recoded and the car now starts and runs however it is still throwing these other two codes mentioned above and once you drive the car it will hit the rev limiter at roughly 2000 rpms and has little to no acceleration. I have done the pedal dance and replaced the MAF and we are still having the same issues. Do you have any advice or pointers on where to look next?
Have you checked for continuity between the ECU and the mass air flow sensor? It's corresponding location on the ECU? It's a nightmare getting to those parts...
You need super clips..
Hi I got a 09 pathfinder I replaced the won't start I replaced the pedal now start but after a mile or less it won't accelerate turn off turned back on is fine but it will not accelerate
Cars in safe mode you have to find out what codes it's showing
From there I can help you better diagnose. Which initial steps to take and in which direction
I cleaned .y throttle body but my car still just turning off wen i step on da gas
When you check for voltage what voltage do you check
thanks
where could i find the info that you are looking at?
nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-maxima-factory-service-manuals.html
You're looking for the engine control or “EC” file. This engine control manual is universal through all 3.5 L Nissan engines
awesome thanks a lot
@@clintmajor1 No problem and good luck.
I change everything and getting these codes P2135 P0011 P2101 P0223 in safe mode… help plz
Your issue is exactly what I'm describing in this video. If you've replaced everything you need to pull the brain out and see if there's conductive goo dripping down the board. And then you have to check the wiring. I know it's a nightmare I wish I could give you a better news but it sounds like you have an electrical issue in the wire itself..
2003 nissan Altima 3.5 in safe mode we reprograms the keys then pulse at injectors for few seconds the we got repeat the program
Did you fix this
I’m not sure what problem my car is but legit I replaced the throttle body then it says my pedal sensor then I replaced that and then it says something else for my throttle body
I would start at the app sensor and then work my way back. Accelerator pedal position sensor
@@karlwashere123 what’s the app sensor ? I’m still having this problem
@@visualz.j9801 accelerator pedal position sensor
@@karlwashere123 yeah i had changed that sensor so many times already & it’s still showing it’s my gas pedal sensor :/
@@visualz.j9801 sounds like you got to do that clip trick and actually read the voltage going through the pedal.. it's only six wires. Two of them are ground.
I'm throwing some crazy azz codes and my shit won't start..... 2123, 2138, 0222, 0123, 0643, 0340, 0345 .... So I guess I gotta volt check all this shit...... It's a 2009 maxima I replaced all these parts accept throttle body... I get a crank and no start issue
My Nissan Bluebird Slyphy cant accelerate above 40km/hr and later the engine shutsdown. What could be the solution?
Clogged fuel filter.
How do I take the car off safe mode without getting it fixed
05 nissan altima turns off wen i step on da gas it sounds like its choking
Could be a number of bad things. Bad fuel pump. Bad mass air flow. Bad gas.. Clogged injectors.
So I am getting a p1122 and a p1612 code on my 02 maxima. Car just cranks but will not fire. Any ideas on what I should be checking? I’ve replaced crank and cam sensors so far.
check if it’s getting spark
Hey I got 07 maxima crank no start for a year replaced about everything I'll m no getting spark and throttle body isn't opening what could it be
My 08 is doing the same thing
My 5th gen is fucccked no clue how to check voltages. 🤦♂️ time for a new car
I'm sorry :(
Don't worry bro.
My maxima gets stuck in 5th gear. It's a 5 speed automatic. To get it back to 1st, I have to keep turning on and off the car. What can it be?
It's a return solenoid. You should have four of them on the side of the transmission little actuators with two wires
so we replaced engine andimwondering if i should use old intake?
i found out that no you have to use old intake or put sensors from the old one that was married to the ecm into the new intake.
I have same issue no fix
Got a video for ya
Are you saying to get it out of safe mode, check accelerator pedal, then the throttle body?
Yeah it'll go from accelerator pedal to throttle body to mass air flow sensor in that order.
Ill send it threw email ive changed the maf the tps crank all that and ecm nothin
The batt light abs keeps comin on and its in limp mode then wont go at all the car trys to pull but just sticks at 1500 rpm unless i let off and give it gas again in wich case ot takes out fast then does it again
@@liljamesjames1884 Assuming you bleed the s*** out of the brake system. Checked the anti-lock braking system pickups on the spindle bearing in the front hub assembly. Could just be dirt on the magnetometer. And you should be doing the pedal dance to clear that from the system not disconnecting the battery.
@@liljamesjames1884 ABS is a long check list. You have to find out what codes it's shooting. Check your fuses. Check for air. Check your pickups. (The little magnets behind the wheel) Make sure that those systems are getting proper voltage.
@@liljamesjames1884 If you want me to simplify it the car is in safe mode which means something in the ABS system is getting low voltage readings. Or no reading at all. like the float in the master cylinder reservoir is stuck or to low or one of those magnets in the front wheel is disconnected or iron rich soil gunked on it. it's getting low voltage somewhere.
Awsome ill run through it this fri
ECM
Does it bother you...
My problem was the ECM. Engine Comp Module. I changed it with a new ECM & its working again. Oh and yes it was.
@@oldestries Just out of curiosity. Did you ever test for power at any of these areas? I was just curious if you would have the 2 1/2 and 5 volt power with this issue on your e c m
It was related with the power indeed. But a bit different from yours. When I check for power from the ecm it looks like nothing is going on like its working just fine but the culprit is whenever I plugged in the coil pack, then its started to be given out a messy group of voltages reading back & forth. Making my car idling very roughly let alone to drive it. I actually were driving when it started to happen. And luckily I could reached my home that evening while others sometimes couldnt.
I have an O5 Maxima its stuck in 5 gear ⚙ my slip light and TCS light is on what could it be
I'm working I'll try to see what I can do for you when I get home. Sounds like a solenoid or transmission control module.
@@karlwashere123 let me know what you think I would really appreciate it
So I kind of need to know what codes it's throwing. P0755? it'll be a 07 if it's the transmission control module. It'll be 08 if it's solenoid.