I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
Never had a Vanguard of any kind, interesting to hear all that. Matter of fact, I don't think I have ever seen one either? Well, now that I am in Michigan, I might just see one here this summer! Great info!
They are in tons of lawn and garden tractors. A lot of Simplicity lawn tractors in the 90s and 2000s had them. Some Craftsmans have them. I prefer the horizontal shafts because they make great repowers for older garden tractors like SS16s
I have a Kohler V twin 725 cc. CV730 . it has hydraulic litters. I like that saves having to do valve adjustments. Mine is rated at 25 horsepower, dont have a clue how much torque it makes. I put it on a Murray 40 inch cut. (Had a Briggs 12.5 horsepower) don't know what happened, a blade stopped, the engine never even bogged. It broke the blade adapter, stripped the spindle shaft and ripped the drive pulley for the spindle in two. Fortunately I had the parts on hand to fix. I have to admit I like the power. The 12.5 felt under powered.
I got a 14horse that is having Valve issues. Im half tempted to upgrade some stuff when Im in there. Thanks for the info. Problem is, mine is running a cheap old centrifugal comet clutch on a heavy ass Cushman Utv Maxim with a 1200 Lb Load rating on the rear axle.. So I think I got to keep it governed anyhow else Ill burn belts constantly. Just trying to find the smartest upgrades for my application.
I was in several riding mower forums at one time, they sed in order to get speed , you need to delete the governer and throw a bunch of billet speed parts in it. Not true. Totally stock 18hp twin flathead briggs , running the governer , i was able to get double digit speed from it. How? Pulleys. I used a 8" motor pulley , 4" trans pulley on a murray shift on the fly tractor. Of course at initial take off its a bit slow, but once it winds up, it boogies. Posted speed on my road is 35mph, it went way faster then that, and i was only in like 3rd gear. Possibly if i put a mikuni carb or something like that might increase rpms, but it was fast enough for me. Larger motor pulley kept the rpms down while it wound up.
Pulley swap is good for ground speed changes but for tractor pulling, you dont want ground speed, you want high rpm (the highest allowable for the class) while maintaining a somewhat low ground speed, it carries down the track better. If the whole goal was to speed up the engine to make whatever it is in faster, its pretty much pointless except for a built engine doubles or triples the horsepower and makes it more stout than a factory stock engine
There cant be any PERFORMANCE build with that stock cam. You cant even beef up the springs or the hollow cam will snap. I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@vg23air none of the internals are stock on my engine aside from pistons and crankshaft. Billet rods and rocker arms, one piece steel pushrods, custom ground cam using a Briggs blank casting. Valve springs were upgraded along with shims for an increased spring rate.
@@71_sears97 nice... For the past 11 months I have been researching and building this engine, go to my channel for info, Kevin and utube channel mc30it were my inspiration. I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@71_sears97 For the past 11 months I have been researching and building this engine, go to my channel for info, Kevin and utube channel mc30it were my inspiration. I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@71_sears97I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues
I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING
I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada
I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
Never had a Vanguard of any kind, interesting to hear all that. Matter of fact, I don't think I have ever seen one either? Well, now that I am in Michigan, I might just see one here this summer! Great info!
They are in tons of lawn and garden tractors. A lot of Simplicity lawn tractors in the 90s and 2000s had them. Some Craftsmans have them. I prefer the horizontal shafts because they make great repowers for older garden tractors like SS16s
I have a Kohler V twin 725 cc. CV730 . it has hydraulic litters. I like that saves having to do valve adjustments. Mine is rated at 25 horsepower, dont have a clue how much torque it makes. I put it on a Murray 40 inch cut. (Had a Briggs 12.5 horsepower) don't know what happened, a blade stopped, the engine never even bogged. It broke the blade adapter, stripped the spindle shaft and ripped the drive pulley for the spindle in two. Fortunately I had the parts on hand to fix. I have to admit I like the power. The 12.5 felt under powered.
I got a 14horse that is having Valve issues. Im half tempted to upgrade some stuff when Im in there. Thanks for the info. Problem is, mine is running a cheap old centrifugal comet clutch on a heavy ass Cushman Utv Maxim with a 1200 Lb Load rating on the rear axle.. So I think I got to keep it governed anyhow else Ill burn belts constantly. Just trying to find the smartest upgrades for my application.
I have a 33 yo vanguard on my bcs tractor. The only thing I have had to do was clean out the carb. Starts 1st or 2nd pull every time
Any of this work on the 18 hp vanguard?
Where does the advance key even go? I'd like to do it to my engine
I was in several riding mower forums at one time, they sed in order to get speed , you need to delete the governer and throw a bunch of billet speed parts in it. Not true. Totally stock 18hp twin flathead briggs , running the governer , i was able to get double digit speed from it. How? Pulleys. I used a 8" motor pulley , 4" trans pulley on a murray shift on the fly tractor. Of course at initial take off its a bit slow, but once it winds up, it boogies. Posted speed on my road is 35mph, it went way faster then that, and i was only in like 3rd gear. Possibly if i put a mikuni carb or something like that might increase rpms, but it was fast enough for me. Larger motor pulley kept the rpms down while it wound up.
Pulley swap is good for ground speed changes but for tractor pulling, you dont want ground speed, you want high rpm (the highest allowable for the class) while maintaining a somewhat low ground speed, it carries down the track better. If the whole goal was to speed up the engine to make whatever it is in faster, its pretty much pointless except for a built engine doubles or triples the horsepower and makes it more stout than a factory stock engine
There cant be any PERFORMANCE build with that stock cam. You cant even beef up the springs or the hollow cam will snap.
I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues
I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING
I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada
I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@vg23air none of the internals are stock on my engine aside from pistons and crankshaft. Billet rods and rocker arms, one piece steel pushrods, custom ground cam using a Briggs blank casting. Valve springs were upgraded along with shims for an increased spring rate.
@@71_sears97 nice... For the past 11 months I have been researching and building this engine, go to my channel for info, Kevin and utube channel mc30it were my inspiration.
I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues
I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING
I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada
I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@71_sears97 For the past 11 months I have been researching and building this engine, go to my channel for info, Kevin and utube channel mc30it were my inspiration.
I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues
I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING
I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada
I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
@@71_sears97I use the VG 23 with the larger crank diameter 1 1/8 inch not 1 inch, the HP I am going for will cause the 1 inch to flex and rod bearing issues
I am using the optional long conn rods to increase the rod ratio and decrease piston wall sideload, Pistons are no longer directional install with this rod length. They are from ARC RACING
I am using high flow heads (1700 usd) and gas ported high comp racing pistons from carrier vanguard performance in canada
I am using the dynocam 275 (do not use the 308, it provides LESS power
I can't wait to break my wife's 23hp vanguard with cheetah cam and supporting mods,(arc, rev kit, timing key)
test