One minor detail you can have for example 2 RAM kits both 2x16gb DDR4 cl16 3200mhz, however if one has timings of 16-16-16-36 and the other 16-19-19-39, it might be worth spending more for that Samsung manufacturing vs that Hynix or Micron kit to squeeze out that extra performance.
Another thing to keep in mind is if you're getting ddr5 ram, look out for AMD expo, which basically allows you to take full advantage of the speeds on your amd system.
Thanks I'll keep this mind hopefully I can build my first gaming AM5 PC by the end of this year. So far I already bought thermal paste, pc case, ssd, monitor, cpu cooler and the motherboard. Can only buy one part per month cuz of the economy here sucks.
@@feliksdzerzhinskij800ay, at least you got the parts, that's a progress!! I'm still saving up money for my PC build, I just graduated from HS and enrolled to University so my money is not stonk
@@dalrend7413 Ha yeah, when I was in Uni years ago I only got that good ol' Thinkpad with me and nothing else. Could only play Stardew and Undertale in there to keep me from going insane with the study.
@@feliksdzerzhinskij800 What an exciting time. You will do it bro, that´s awesome. I kknow how it´s to be poor and I still buy on a budget and love thinkering and optimizing.
3200 mhz with cl 16 or another number i forgot basicly is the same as 3600 mhz with cl 18 or another number i forgot again. I went for a 3600 mhz ddr4 32gb with cl 16 or another num i forgot. Honestly i just got this info from a yt video about which ddr4 ram stick i should buy. Idk if im right
Another thing to note, effective latency of RAM is a function of both frequency and cl rating. The equation is: (CL × 2000) / Freq [in MHz] = Latency [in ns] By this equation, 3200MHz CL14 is roughly similar latency to 3600MHz CL16. There are calculators online to easily compute this
Exactly, the CL itself is useless ironically people taking the CL as Latency even though it's in Cycle Unit (edit: it's a Clock Cycles even though same thing as Cycles)it has nothing to do with Latency and Time but the RAM Latency does in ns unit.
MY ORIGINAL POST:" DDR5 6000Mhz CL30 has the exact same latency as DDR4 3200Mhz CL14, both 10ns. There is zero change in performance. That´s what bugs me." Crrection: I was wrong, of course there is a change, it´s not the latency that changes in this one example, but performance changes, du to more put through by the higher clocks.
@@ABDZA313 Yes I lknow, DDR5 has a higher potential and uses ECC (Error Code Correction) I just think many people don´t know they are the same performance, they think just because it´s DDR5 so a newer generation is should have better performance which in many cases simply is not true.
It's worth noting that CAS latency isn't just a single number, but a string of consecutive numbers that determine how long multiple successive reads take, though usually only the first value is on the listing. Usually, manufacturers will have the full set of timings available on the spec sheet
yep, ram timings are usually formatted in tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS so for example: 17-20-20-48 but this gets into the nitty gritty ram of territory, so for the mass majority of people, looking at the tCL aka CAS Latency is all you need.
@@ItsHonski Exactly! CAS Latency is Column Address Selection Latency. Your example is good, even though most of the time tCL tends to be an even number (if not most MoBos automatically change that) and tRAS tends to be the sum of tRCD and tRP.
here’s the complicated way. say you got cl sixteen 3000mts. 2000x CL (sixteen) =32000/MT per second= ten point 6. basically your rams latency. it’s why cl matters, looser cl and lower mts gives more latency vs something like cl sixteen 3600
6000Mhz CL30 has the exact same performance as 3200Mhz CL16 which is 10ns. It depends on what you try to do with it. For games low CL is best, the lower the better and only 2 RAM sticks, even MB with only 2 RAM stick slots perform better. For somebody who also does CAD work photophot or whatever the amount of RAM matters more and the performance hit to price hit with higher CL does not matter all too much. It all depends. The lover the CL the better. The half the size rule of thumb is nice tho I give you that.
I have them in now, ddr4, but I kinda want more rgb 😂 so I'm thinking of getting vengeance ddr5 when I upgrade so I can sync it with my AIO, even though the icue software is trash and the lights go from red to pink randomly
My cousin built my pc for me in 2020 and he told me to get 32gbs of ram instead of 16 I thought it was overkill at the time but I’m really glad he told me to get 32 all the applications add up and sometimes 16 just isn’t enough when I have everything running
From my somewhat limited experience, I've seen RAM with matching specs at different price points but ended up returning the cheaper dimms because when setting them to the rated speed they would become unstable. I imagine milage varies here but it seems like spending a little more helps ensure you actually get what's on the label.
Also If you want to OC your RAM (which some people do) more expensive kits usually have better memory chips that are able to go beyond whats on the box
Memory is expensive these days, personally I’d add in brand quality / past reputation to that is as well. Having a random off brand that’s $20 less fail in 3 months is a lot less of a headache than paying that extra $20 for the brand who has a good reputation
Can personally attest to this. I've multiple off-brand memory sticks fail memory tests and blue screen my builds over the years. Sure, any RAM will eventually fail, but some brands actually care about using decent components.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't RAM brands doesn't really matter in terms of their reliability over time? They don't have moving parts, there's not really anything that can deteriorate over time. That's why most RAMs have lifetime warranty
@@ivandarmawan9372It's the same reason you may choose a more reputable brand MOBO. there are no moving parts, but there are still components such as capacitors, voltage regulators, etc. A few cents in price could mean a more stable signal and less chance of failure. As for RAM chips themselves, you are probably right. They are going to be very similar if not identical in quality. Although, some unbranded RAM sticks may also be using trash silicon wafers, causing inconsistencies and failures.
Would like to add, although it wasn't included because of the target audience that more expensive kits may have flash chips from a series that is better for manual overclocking beyond XMP/EXPO specs. Not something that most people bother with obviously but could lead to not truly understand why some kits might cost more.
thank for such great video it will be more help full if you create a playlist like this specifying and telling standard term to check of every component for full pc setup
I don’t know I you have done this for other pc components but it would be helpful if you did this same type of video format because this helps know what to look for in a pc and is overall very helpful
Me who has watched all of Buildzoid's videos on RAM overclocking and timings: actually good advice. There's quite a bit of performance that can be squeezed out from going through the motions of configuring your RAM, but setting and testing all of that is akin to trying to solve a three-body problem by hand: timings, voltages, on-die terminations. Trying to achieve stability through those settings is a long and painful process.
Honestly choosing the right RAM manufacturer can be important, as some brands only uses the Hynix dies at really fast XMP kits, while others guarentees a Hynix M at 6000m/t cl30
Hey ! You probably should give your budget, monitor resolution and which games you want to play on it ! (To some people, "budget pc" sounds like a $800, for others it sounds like 500 😅 that's why)
Another thing that can save a lot of effort: select the motherboard first, then go to the support site for the motherboard and look at the CVL list. Only choose ram on that list to make things easier on you, especially if you are going to use a memory configuration tool like AMD EXPO.
Part related to speed and timings is not really optimal. It's better to check forums regarding overclocking and track down specific IC's being put on cheap RAM modules. Then you can overclock it and have better performance for the price of regular sticks.
@@gagarin777 The difference is not a big as you make it to be. The $100 kit is within 1% margin of the $150 kit so e.G. 6000Mhz CL 36 vs 6000Mhz CL30. No one needs a $500 RAM kit, that´s nonsense. And my time is more valuable as those 1% improved performance of my RAM. I am just turning on the XMP profile and that´s that. I am not willing to spend time and tinkering to increase my performance by a small margin THIS is wasteful. BTW I can afford the $500 RAM kit you mentioned and the RTX 4090 I just don´t want to, nor do I need it. My priorities lie elsewhere. I can not buy time, any time at any price, my lifetime is limited. It is thus way more valuable to me.
@@sierraecho884 Well what I'm saying is from my own experience. I bought DDR4 3200 C14 OEM with Samsung B-die back in the day, mounted radiators that I had lying around and it was as capable with OC as $500 G.Skill 4000 C19. So yes I saved nearly $400. I'm still on AM4 5950X and RTX3090 - skipping those early DDR5 platforms as I tend to buy the last platform on the socket and then use it to play with overclocking when I move main rig to the new stuff.
Or find what chips are being used in those ram kits and which ones overclock better with your processor. Probably the easiest and cheapest way to gain FPS
I would like to point out that CL is not always dependable and does not determine the RAM Latency. You must use the RAM Latency Formula, which is RAM Latency = CAS Latency × 2000 ÷ Data Rate With this Formula, we can know the Latency in any RAM let's take for example the "TEAMGROUP T-CREATE EXPERT Overclocking 10L DDR5 32GB Kit (2 x 16GB) 6000MT/s (PC5-48000) CL38" from these numbers we can know the RAM Latency like this: 1)RAM Latency (ns) = 38 × 2000 ÷ 6000 2)RAM Latency = 12.6ns It's so simple. Now let's say the speed is 6600MT/s and CL40 for example, it becomes: RAM Latency = 40 × 2000 ÷ 6600 RAM Latency =12.12ns It turns out that it's faster than the 6000MT/s one even though the CL is 38 and the 6600MT/s one is CL 40, So CL itself useless and have nothing to do with the RAM Latency unless you put it together to get what's called RAM Latency, The CL abbreviated as Cycles is not always the determinant of the RAM Latency, The Data Rate also has a hand in this, So please don't fall for that. Note: Even PCPARTPICKER writes this thing. You will see in the RAM specifications that it is also 10ns, for example.
That's what I ended up doing, once I chose my CPU and motherboard, I looked at compatible RAM and once I knew the specs I wanted I just chose the one where I liked how the aesthetics matched the motherboard for a price I was willing to pay, not the cheapest, not the most expensive.
There is also 4th thing to look into which is Timings on the ram, more expensive RAM kit could have tighter ( lower ) timings that could impact performance
I usually have two builds. One with a Ryzen 7 5700x with RX 6800 with 32GB DDR4 3600mhz and also have an old Xeon e5 2690 V2 build with RTX 2070 super... Surprisingly had a deal of 128GB of DDR3 of 1866mhz on the Xeon build and I never actually had any issues so far. Got the Xeon as an experimental build during Covid and it's still kicking on my 3D modelling softwares and all. Gaming at 1080p is very satisfactory on it as well for a single player like me lol 🤙✨ finding myself to use the budget one more than the Ryzen build weirdly enough...
Until i upgraded to ddr5 all i saw was capacity and that was it, honestly felt like all 3 really became something i looked into when I upgraded and started doing research.
also if you see a dual and a quad kit with the same specs and similar price always go for the dual kit because you will get better performance from dual channel and if you decide to get more you can buy the same kit again and upgrade that way.
You should ALWAYS consult your motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendor List) of compatible ram. Had plenty of ram kits cause problems due to incompatibility. It happens, especially with cheap motherboards.
CPU is the processor, which computes things like equations, words, and more. Things like PowerPoint, google sheets, word, docs, and others are CPU dependent. GPU is what is used for graphic-related things. For most games you will need a decent GPU. Higher resolutions (like 4K or 1440p) will also require higher GPU power. Motherboard (also known as mobo) is the main part that holds most of the parts. Older motherboards will limit you to a certain version of CPU and RAM platform, like a slightly older mobo that has AM4 with DDR4, or a newer mobo with AM5, DDR5, and maybe wifi/Bluetooth. RAM is explained here somewhat, it is the speed your computer can take data and send it somewhere like storage. Better RAM often allows for faster downloads, and other things. Storage is, storage. Faster storage (like ssd over hdd) will also improve download times. PSU(Power Supply Unit) is how you power the PC. Sorta like a battery that requires to be plugged in to use. The psu sends the power to the monitor, mobo, GPU, CPU, and RAM(may or may not include storage, not sure though). Monitor is simple, it is the thing you need to display the games/programs. You can have more than 1 monitor, but it will require more power from the PSU, processing power from the CPU, and graphics power from the GPU. Hope this helps a bit!
The IT guy at work told me to get the cheap RAM for my build. I figured he knew what he was talking about. Turns out my motherboard didn't like that, and it kept getting stuck on the DRAM indicator light. I went and bought the Vengeance RAM, and it began working. If you're building a PC. Just get the better RAM sticks and make sure they're compatible with your processor/motherboard. Intel for Intel. AMD for AMD. Hopefully, you don't run into the same issues I was having, and you can avoid the aggravation.
Tbh I think people actually hurt there performance. They want ddr5 7000 when there motherboard and cpu likes 5800 which is so reliable on like all ddr5 ram and the cas latency is way better and easier to find. Then you have ddr4 which imp 3200 with low cas latency is still the goat. Like ive found so many times beofre even with intel that ddr4 3200 is more reliable and consistent and gets way way closer to the same fps then much of the media shows. Because they test cpus with the same pieces of everything when thats just not optimsl lol.
More expensive ones often offer better dies, which allows to squeeze even more performance out of the RAM by overclocking it, be it frequency or the timings
DDR5 latency numbers are higher, but DDR5 operates at much higher clock speeds, so it can still move data faster. The whole ‘picture,’ or real-world performance, depends more on what you plan to do with your machine.
If you want to fly DCS in multi-player, you will need a minimum of 64 gigs of ram. A server with 10 people will use 42 gigs and spike up to 50 when cluster bombs are used.
I know its a little complicated/maybe too much information, but it should be noted that CAS latency is expressed in cycles of the ram speed. It's why DDR4 will have CL of like 16, but many DDR5 will only have 30. For example, 6400mhz RAM with a latency of 32 is exactly the same amount of "real time" as 6000mhz at a latency of 30. (It's about 5 nano seconds) So don't give up ram speed for a lower CL rating, use it only to compare two otherwise identical kits. Also most DDR5 kits that advertise a speed of 4800mhz or higher will need to have either XMP or Expo activated in the BIOS to actually go that fast.
Hey ztt. Idk if you will answer this but. On Facebook marketplace right now, there is a pc with a faulty motherboard for $400 NZD cause I’m in New Zealand. The thing is All other parts are untested. Here are the specs: Rtx 3060 I5 12400f 32gb ram It’s in a small case which I would replace and I would replace the motherboard, but do you think it’s worth buying? thanks
It will help me, thank you Weeeell there are a ton of other things I have to learn to pick the parts soooo, Im fu*ed surely with the prices in my country
Funny enough, i consider stability as well. I had 6000 mhz Corsair DDR5 and it gave me stability issues with the XMP profile enabled. Soooo i boight T-Create ram by Teamgroup, which is made for workstations, for its stability and reliability. Never had any issues with running it at its max specs like with Corsair. Not sure if i had bad ram or something (since it ran fine with lower settings), but now I'm sticking with workstation ram.
its okay to buy from like sk hynix or micron if anything they have more reliable chips and for modules samsung is one of the bad choices rn, corsair or crucial would be better
you only buy B-Dies or so @Parodidical ? because you live in the Zen 1-2 and i7 8700k days right? they wont do shit these days because the DDR4 support on 12/14th gen was just budged on to there rather then really implemented to the Chip to tide people over untill they got DDR5 DDR5 in general is just less expensy, but when you put B-Die on a lets say 13700k it will be much worse then on an 8700k alltho no bud should use an 8700k BUT :D thats when Samsungs B-Die was awesome because it rather cured the latency Delay of the individual Chiiplets (Infinity Fabric) which connected two CCXs to make up a 6 and 8 core Chip sooo yeah theres that, toss it or put it back into an old system and get some DDR5 bro, they make a difference in the 40 Series which is noticable ;)
There are more things that the brand doesn't tell you about memory specs like chip manufacturer(Samsung, Micron, SK Hynix), memory rank(1R, 2R), and memory depth & width(x4, x8, x16) that affect performance too
4. Capacity per stick Especially important in AMD systems. Higher the speeds, lower the chance of it working with 4 sticks. So if you get 2x8GB now, you will probably have to swap it to 2x16GB in the future instead of extending to 4x8GB. You can also check the QVL on the motherboard's support page for kits that support 4x8GB configuration. Intel systems tend to be less picky about RAM, but depends on the overall configuration. 5. Try to pick RAM dedicated to your platform. For AMD, get RAM with EXPO/DOCP, for Intel get XMP. Don't forget to enable XMP or EXPO/DOCP in BIOS of your motherboard. If not sure what to get, consult QVL for your motherboard. 6. XMP enabled RAM is not always perfectly compatible with AMD CPUs. Memory controllers in Ryzen processors usually support slower speeds and there were multiple cases of people buying very fast kits (faster that recommended in this short) and while working perfectly on Intel platform with XMP enabled, they had to be either downclocked, adjusted timings (CL etc.) or both. 7. Always test your build with freeware memory testers like MemTest86+, that way you will be almost sure that your memory subsystem is stable under load with different type of simulated operations. 8. Remember about diminishing returns. When buying extremely fast kits, they tend to cost a lot more than standard ones. You won't get the performance increases compared to spending more money. There are a lots of videos about the subject, where buying the sweet spot kits compared to buying the high end ones net you 1-5% performance for twice the price (of course it depends on the type of load). 9. RGB on RAM could be troublesome to control, since you usually will need another piece of software running in the background. Unless you picked a combination, where for example motherboard software supports controlling your type of RAM RGB or you use opensource program (like OpenRGB) that can detect and control multiple RGB-enabled hardware. 10. Updating your motherboard's BIOS may change your RAM compatibility. New BIOS versions usually fix compatibility issues enabling you to use kits that previously didn't work, but there are instances that other factors can influence compatibility in a wrong way, like limiting the max voltage for memory controller, that directly affects max memory speeds and timings. 11. If you bought a prebuilt PC, go to BIOS and make sure OEM did their job correctly and enabled XMP/DOCP. This is often the case, where OEM will use nice, fast kits, then it will leave the standard memory profile, leaving the performance you paid for on the table. Also remember to check if XMP/DOCP is enabled after every BIOS update or every BIOS settings clear, because the default is always the standard profile (according to JEDEC specs).
This was my exact thought process when I assembled my rig last year. 32 Gigs of DDR5/6000 RAM serves perfectly.
My 32GB of DDR4 3200 Mhz RAM also serves perfectly.
@@priincebrvce7213It won't in the future
I have 48gb 3600mhz ddr4 because I got it in a great deal
Do you see any difference between ddr4 and 5? In productivity aspect
@@priincebrvce7213yeah it just depends on what you do with your computer
Indeed 32 is becoming the new standard. Back when 16 was overkill, I was running 4GB of ram since the 2010s. Things really change quickly....
30 or 28 😊😊😊
Games like Hogwarts Legacy are really cooking PC gamers lol
@@priincebrvce7213 I agree. AAA games are insane.
@@maybacher you mean my age?
Bro I felt the need for 16gb when I was in Windows 10
DDR5-6000 2x16GB is going to be insanely legendary, like how DDR4-3600 2x8GB was
ddr4 3200*
The sweet spot is 3200
3600 was better back then, 90% of videos from back then said 3600, 3200 for budget gamers
@@RobloxianX1 fps difference at most.
@@stavroskoul8782 Still how the content was back then, you can't change the past.
One minor detail you can have for example 2 RAM kits both 2x16gb DDR4 cl16 3200mhz, however if one has timings of 16-16-16-36 and the other 16-19-19-39, it might be worth spending more for that Samsung manufacturing vs that Hynix or Micron kit to squeeze out that extra performance.
Another thing to keep in mind is if you're getting ddr5 ram, look out for AMD expo, which basically allows you to take full advantage of the speeds on your amd system.
Thanks I'll keep this mind hopefully I can build my first gaming AM5 PC by the end of this year. So far I already bought thermal paste, pc case, ssd, monitor, cpu cooler and the motherboard. Can only buy one part per month cuz of the economy here sucks.
@@feliksdzerzhinskij800ay, at least you got the parts, that's a progress!! I'm still saving up money for my PC build, I just graduated from HS and enrolled to University so my money is not stonk
@@dalrend7413 Ha yeah, when I was in Uni years ago I only got that good ol' Thinkpad with me and nothing else. Could only play Stardew and Undertale in there to keep me from going insane with the study.
Oh shit my ram I picked is xmp Oops, thanks bro
expo is only 4$ more and its cl30 instead of 32, nice
@@feliksdzerzhinskij800 What an exciting time. You will do it bro, that´s awesome. I kknow how it´s to be poor and I still buy on a budget and love thinkering and optimizing.
Am I the only one who didn't know what CL was until now or am I not alone?
You're not alone
Dont worry, I just now discovered what latency actually means too
3200 mhz with cl 16 or another number i forgot basicly is the same as 3600 mhz with cl 18 or another number i forgot again. I went for a 3600 mhz ddr4 32gb with cl 16 or another num i forgot. Honestly i just got this info from a yt video about which ddr4 ram stick i should buy. Idk if im right
I don't even know it existed
i had no idea either
These guides are great for just getting into building a pc, thank you so much for keeping it simple
Another thing to note, effective latency of RAM is a function of both frequency and cl rating. The equation is:
(CL × 2000) / Freq [in MHz] = Latency [in ns]
By this equation, 3200MHz CL14 is roughly similar latency to 3600MHz CL16. There are calculators online to easily compute this
Exactly, the CL itself is useless ironically people taking the CL as Latency even though it's in Cycle Unit (edit: it's a Clock Cycles even though same thing as Cycles)it has nothing to do with Latency and Time but the RAM Latency does in ns unit.
this helped a lot thank you
MY ORIGINAL POST:" DDR5 6000Mhz CL30 has the exact same latency as DDR4 3200Mhz CL14, both 10ns. There is zero change in performance. That´s what bugs me."
Crrection: I was wrong, of course there is a change, it´s not the latency that changes in this one example, but performance changes, du to more put through by the higher clocks.
@@sierraecho884 In this situation go with the One that is cheaper or go with the DDR5 for a Future Guarantee
@@ABDZA313 Yes I lknow, DDR5 has a higher potential and uses ECC (Error Code Correction) I just think many people don´t know they are the same performance, they think just because it´s DDR5 so a newer generation is should have better performance which in many cases simply is not true.
It's worth noting that CAS latency isn't just a single number, but a string of consecutive numbers that determine how long multiple successive reads take, though usually only the first value is on the listing. Usually, manufacturers will have the full set of timings available on the spec sheet
yep, ram timings are usually formatted in tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS
so for example:
17-20-20-48
but this gets into the nitty gritty ram of territory, so for the mass majority of people, looking at the tCL aka CAS Latency is all you need.
@@ItsHonski
Exactly! CAS Latency is Column Address Selection Latency.
Your example is good, even though most of the time tCL tends to be an even number (if not most MoBos automatically change that) and tRAS tends to be the sum of tRCD and tRP.
@@gigalar1248 i have that sequence memorized because it’s the example shown in memtesthelper’s DDR4 OC guide
@@ItsHonski oh ok
yep my ram is 6400 at cl32, but i can get 6400 cl28 with certain timings with my 7800 x3d cpu
Anyone else confused why Dance Dance Revolution 5 needs 32gb ram?
💀
😂😂
Deutsche Demokratische Republik (East Germany)
Because it's got a horrible ass optimisation
@@Cosmic_Radiation68 I can detect your radiation from a mile away...
M I S T E R U N P L U G G E D G P U G U Y
The CL should not be higher than half your ram speed is the easy way.
(6400mhz = CL32
6000mhz = CL30
3200mhz = CL16)
here’s the complicated way. say you got cl sixteen 3000mts. 2000x CL (sixteen) =32000/MT per second= ten point 6. basically your rams latency. it’s why cl matters, looser cl and lower mts gives more latency vs something like cl sixteen 3600
6000Mhz CL30 has the exact same performance as 3200Mhz CL16 which is 10ns. It depends on what you try to do with it. For games low CL is best, the lower the better and only 2 RAM sticks, even MB with only 2 RAM stick slots perform better. For somebody who also does CAD work photophot or whatever the amount of RAM matters more and the performance hit to price hit with higher CL does not matter all too much. It all depends. The lover the CL the better. The half the size rule of thumb is nice tho I give you that.
so 6000mhz cl19 is good right
I always go with the team force delta kit. Has nice rgb, good speeds, and a good cl rating at a cheaper price then similar rgb kits.
For me it's Klevv Cras
I have them in now, ddr4, but I kinda want more rgb 😂 so I'm thinking of getting vengeance ddr5 when I upgrade so I can sync it with my AIO, even though the icue software is trash and the lights go from red to pink randomly
My cousin built my pc for me in 2020 and he told me to get 32gbs of ram instead of 16 I thought it was overkill at the time but I’m really glad he told me to get 32 all the applications add up and sometimes 16 just isn’t enough when I have everything running
Sometimes it’s about the better heat sink for thermals. Ram gets hot too.
From my somewhat limited experience, I've seen RAM with matching specs at different price points but ended up returning the cheaper dimms because when setting them to the rated speed they would become unstable. I imagine milage varies here but it seems like spending a little more helps ensure you actually get what's on the label.
Yes exactly and if you go into a bit more overclocking it becomes twice as bad
Also
If you want to OC your RAM (which some people do) more expensive kits usually have better memory chips that are able to go beyond whats on the box
Must be a trusted brand
it doesn't HAVE to be trusted it just has to work lol
What an amazing channel for shorts, always goes to the point, no skipping stuff. Thanks!
Memory is expensive these days, personally I’d add in brand quality / past reputation to that is as well. Having a random off brand that’s $20 less fail in 3 months is a lot less of a headache than paying that extra $20 for the brand who has a good reputation
It's funny how you think that the more expensive the more durable, especially for ram.
Can personally attest to this. I've multiple off-brand memory sticks fail memory tests and blue screen my builds over the years. Sure, any RAM will eventually fail, but some brands actually care about using decent components.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't RAM brands doesn't really matter in terms of their reliability over time? They don't have moving parts, there's not really anything that can deteriorate over time. That's why most RAMs have lifetime warranty
@@ivandarmawan9372It's the same reason you may choose a more reputable brand MOBO. there are no moving parts, but there are still components such as capacitors, voltage regulators, etc. A few cents in price could mean a more stable signal and less chance of failure. As for RAM chips themselves, you are probably right. They are going to be very similar if not identical in quality. Although, some unbranded RAM sticks may also be using trash silicon wafers, causing inconsistencies and failures.
ram is NOT expensive these days infact its the cheapest its ever been lol
Would like to add, although it wasn't included because of the target audience that more expensive kits may have flash chips from a series that is better for manual overclocking beyond XMP/EXPO specs. Not something that most people bother with obviously but could lead to not truly understand why some kits might cost more.
32GB of DDR3 boiz
I have 128GB of DDR3 actually. It might sound weird but it's actually is a very big number that even I never believed was possible lol
@@faquirmdiqbal1018 its not unless its rDIMM because the max per stick is 10gb for ddr3 unless you have rdimm which is 16 or 32
Thank you for mentioning CL! I've never seen a UA-camr mention CL, and no one seems to know anything about CL.
Jason the pc builder does mention it ! Which is why I already knew about it xd
Rgb is by far the most important, instantly makes your ram at least 50% faster!
thank for such great video
it will be more help full if you create a playlist like this specifying and telling standard term to check of every component for full pc setup
4: make sure it's dual-ranked
Well I just learned something new. Had no idea what CL was and I much appreciated you for explaining it.👏👏👏
War thunder CAS mentioned
ATTACK THE D POINT
NEVER🗣🗣🗣
CAS is an actual military term. Also, NEVER!
@@yapflipthegrunt4687 yeah I know but AFFIRMATIVE
Negative
I don’t know I you have done this for other pc components but it would be helpful if you did this same type of video format because this helps know what to look for in a pc and is overall very helpful
Me who has watched all of Buildzoid's videos on RAM overclocking and timings: actually good advice.
There's quite a bit of performance that can be squeezed out from going through the motions of configuring your RAM, but setting and testing all of that is akin to trying to solve a three-body problem by hand: timings, voltages, on-die terminations. Trying to achieve stability through those settings is a long and painful process.
Actually quite valuable knowledge! Thank you.
*Can you please make a (short) video about a 800-1000$ pc for hobby gaming and doing just normal stuff. (Like Word and PowerPoint)*
There still bros needing to hear this. Companies try to grab up money just with the looks. Keep these needed info up good man.
also, dont forget about ranks, go for dual rank (memory modules on both sides) sticks
Great video, just good information and no BS.
Honestly choosing the right RAM manufacturer can be important, as some brands only uses the Hynix dies at really fast XMP kits, while others guarentees a Hynix M at 6000m/t cl30
Can you show me a budget editing/gaming pc
Hey ! You probably should give your budget, monitor resolution and which games you want to play on it ! (To some people, "budget pc" sounds like a $800, for others it sounds like 500 😅 that's why)
Maybe the expensive sticks in DDR4 is to consider when it comes to check the chips builders of the RAM, Samsung, Micron, Skhynx or something like that
Generally more expensive ram kits have better overclocking potential if you want to fine tune the timings and speed
Another thing that can save a lot of effort: select the motherboard first, then go to the support site for the motherboard and look at the CVL list. Only choose ram on that list to make things easier on you, especially if you are going to use a memory configuration tool like AMD EXPO.
Part related to speed and timings is not really optimal. It's better to check forums regarding overclocking and track down specific IC's being put on cheap RAM modules. Then you can overclock it and have better performance for the price of regular sticks.
Or you value time over money and don´t do that. Just buy the more expensive components with XMP on the box.
@@sierraecho884 if you buy $100 kit for the same performance as $500 kit I would say you would have to be earning within top 1% to be that wasteful
@@gagarin777 The difference is not a big as you make it to be. The $100 kit is within 1% margin of the $150 kit so e.G. 6000Mhz CL 36 vs 6000Mhz CL30. No one needs a $500 RAM kit, that´s nonsense. And my time is more valuable as those 1% improved performance of my RAM. I am just turning on the XMP profile and that´s that. I am not willing to spend time and tinkering to increase my performance by a small margin THIS is wasteful. BTW I can afford the $500 RAM kit you mentioned and the RTX 4090 I just don´t want to, nor do I need it. My priorities lie elsewhere. I can not buy time, any time at any price, my lifetime is limited. It is thus way more valuable to me.
@@sierraecho884 Well what I'm saying is from my own experience. I bought DDR4 3200 C14 OEM with Samsung B-die back in the day, mounted radiators that I had lying around and it was as capable with OC as $500 G.Skill 4000 C19. So yes I saved nearly $400. I'm still on AM4 5950X and RTX3090 - skipping those early DDR5 platforms as I tend to buy the last platform on the socket and then use it to play with overclocking when I move main rig to the new stuff.
Or find what chips are being used in those ram kits and which ones overclock better with your processor. Probably the easiest and cheapest way to gain FPS
this was very informative and concise
I would like to point out that CL is not always dependable and does not determine the RAM Latency. You must use the RAM Latency Formula, which is
RAM Latency = CAS Latency × 2000 ÷ Data Rate
With this Formula, we can know the Latency in any RAM let's take for example the "TEAMGROUP T-CREATE EXPERT Overclocking 10L DDR5 32GB Kit (2 x 16GB) 6000MT/s (PC5-48000) CL38" from these numbers we can know the RAM Latency like this:
1)RAM Latency (ns) = 38 × 2000 ÷ 6000
2)RAM Latency = 12.6ns
It's so simple.
Now let's say the speed is 6600MT/s and CL40 for example, it becomes:
RAM Latency = 40 × 2000 ÷ 6600
RAM Latency =12.12ns
It turns out that it's faster than the 6000MT/s one even though the CL is 38 and the 6600MT/s one is CL 40, So CL itself useless and have nothing to do with the RAM Latency unless you put it together to get what's called RAM Latency, The CL abbreviated as Cycles is not always the determinant of the RAM Latency, The Data Rate also has a hand in this, So please don't fall for that.
Note: Even PCPARTPICKER writes this thing. You will see in the RAM specifications that it is also 10ns, for example.
cl is still important, you dont want like a 6000 mt/s kit with cl48 ram because it affects the total transfer rate but speed is still very important
@@benbo57 sorry I missed up and I edited so I can get to the point
That's what I ended up doing, once I chose my CPU and motherboard, I looked at compatible RAM and once I knew the specs I wanted I just chose the one where I liked how the aesthetics matched the motherboard for a price I was willing to pay, not the cheapest, not the most expensive.
It’s funny that you show the Kingston Fury Beast DDR5 because that’s what I’m using for my Fractal Terra build!
There is also 4th thing to look into which is Timings on the ram, more expensive RAM kit could have tighter ( lower ) timings that could impact performance
Tech becoming more advanced with each day
I usually have two builds. One with a Ryzen 7 5700x with RX 6800 with 32GB DDR4 3600mhz and also have an old Xeon e5 2690 V2 build with RTX 2070 super... Surprisingly had a deal of 128GB of DDR3 of 1866mhz on the Xeon build and I never actually had any issues so far. Got the Xeon as an experimental build during Covid and it's still kicking on my 3D modelling softwares and all. Gaming at 1080p is very satisfactory on it as well for a single player like me lol 🤙✨ finding myself to use the budget one more than the Ryzen build weirdly enough...
If you're still using DDR3, make sure to grab 2x16GB 2133mhz RAM or 2x8GB 1866mhz if it's the only thing available.
Just watching your videos will help me one day build my own pc.
Until i upgraded to ddr5 all i saw was capacity and that was it, honestly felt like all 3 really became something i looked into when I upgraded and started doing research.
**checks RAM** ooh, I have good specs, nice
CL is really important for laptop as most laptop RAMs are CL22(3200mhz), i just got a CL18(3000mhz) but it was significantly more expensive
CL is overrated when comparing different generations of DDR
also if you see a dual and a quad kit with the same specs and similar price always go for the dual kit because you will get better performance from dual channel and if you decide to get more you can buy the same kit again and upgrade that way.
Alright, this is useful information, earned my sub.
You should ALWAYS consult your motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendor List) of compatible ram. Had plenty of ram kits cause problems due to incompatibility. It happens, especially with cheap motherboards.
Great advice.. good video 🎉
Time has flies when 16 GB of RAM is the minimum standard, seriously you can't run anything smoothly with 8 GB right now
never thought i would see two rams scissoring 😔
Great video. Straight to the point, accurate reasonings
Only thing you forgot is some motherboards and cheaper brands might not work with xmp enabled
I personally took all timings (not just CL) into consideration
Can you explain all PC components and how they work as simply as possible? I don’t understand anything
CPU is the processor, which computes things like equations, words, and more. Things like PowerPoint, google sheets, word, docs, and others are CPU dependent.
GPU is what is used for graphic-related things. For most games you will need a decent GPU. Higher resolutions (like 4K or 1440p) will also require higher GPU power.
Motherboard (also known as mobo) is the main part that holds most of the parts. Older motherboards will limit you to a certain version of CPU and RAM platform, like a slightly older mobo that has AM4 with DDR4, or a newer mobo with AM5, DDR5, and maybe wifi/Bluetooth.
RAM is explained here somewhat, it is the speed your computer can take data and send it somewhere like storage. Better RAM often allows for faster downloads, and other things.
Storage is, storage. Faster storage (like ssd over hdd) will also improve download times.
PSU(Power Supply Unit) is how you power the PC. Sorta like a battery that requires to be plugged in to use. The psu sends the power to the monitor, mobo, GPU, CPU, and RAM(may or may not include storage, not sure though).
Monitor is simple, it is the thing you need to display the games/programs. You can have more than 1 monitor, but it will require more power from the PSU, processing power from the CPU, and graphics power from the GPU.
Hope this helps a bit!
@@InfinityChances_ thanks
@@nikitaKarkavin yw
@@InfinityChances_ omg u wasted so much time lol you couldve js said look up a vid or pasted a vid link lol
@benbo57 believe it or not, some people learn better when it's written out, and not in a video.
The IT guy at work told me to get the cheap RAM for my build. I figured he knew what he was talking about. Turns out my motherboard didn't like that, and it kept getting stuck on the DRAM indicator light. I went and bought the Vengeance RAM, and it began working. If you're building a PC. Just get the better RAM sticks and make sure they're compatible with your processor/motherboard. Intel for Intel. AMD for AMD. Hopefully, you don't run into the same issues I was having, and you can avoid the aggravation.
Tbh I think people actually hurt there performance. They want ddr5 7000 when there motherboard and cpu likes 5800 which is so reliable on like all ddr5 ram and the cas latency is way better and easier to find. Then you have ddr4 which imp 3200 with low cas latency is still the goat.
Like ive found so many times beofre even with intel that ddr4 3200 is more reliable and consistent and gets way way closer to the same fps then much of the media shows. Because they test cpus with the same pieces of everything when thats just not optimsl lol.
I remember when people said that "32gigs is overkill, 16 is the optimal one and is a good pick". God, how times have changed
More expensive ones often offer better dies, which allows to squeeze even more performance out of the RAM by overclocking it, be it frequency or the timings
Thankyou bro this information love from India ❤
DDR5 latency numbers are higher, but DDR5 operates at much higher clock speeds, so it can still move data faster. The whole ‘picture,’ or real-world performance, depends more on what you plan to do with your machine.
I only have 2 main specs.
1. See if the RAM is listed on the QVL list.
2. See if the RAM supports XMP and/or Expo.
whats the point of xmp/exp if you speed is so low it doesnt actually help anything lol
True but there are some kits you should avoid like the flare x5 for am5
If you want to fly DCS in multi-player, you will need a minimum of 64 gigs of ram. A server with 10 people will use 42 gigs and spike up to 50 when cluster bombs are used.
i wouldnt say MINIMUM but rec it is more realistic
Thank you this is video I’m asking for when comes to simplicity perfect 👍
I wanna game on 1440p and also do 4k video editing which processor should I go with: Amd ryzen 5 7600 or the ryzen 5
5600??
Helped. Lot thanks
16gb used to feel OP, now just another budget baller and running a AAA game makes my laptop take off
I know its a little complicated/maybe too much information, but it should be noted that CAS latency is expressed in cycles of the ram speed.
It's why DDR4 will have CL of like 16, but many DDR5 will only have 30.
For example, 6400mhz RAM with a latency of 32 is exactly the same amount of "real time" as 6000mhz at a latency of 30. (It's about 5 nano seconds)
So don't give up ram speed for a lower CL rating, use it only to compare two otherwise identical kits.
Also most DDR5 kits that advertise a speed of 4800mhz or higher will need to have either XMP or Expo activated in the BIOS to actually go that fast.
Hey ztt. Idk if you will answer this but. On Facebook marketplace right now, there is a pc with a faulty motherboard for $400 NZD cause I’m in New Zealand. The thing is All other parts are untested. Here are the specs:
Rtx 3060
I5 12400f
32gb ram
It’s in a small case which I would replace and I would replace the motherboard, but do you think it’s worth buying?
thanks
Finally precise answer
You can buy a CL36/38 kit aslong as it's a good kit and you tune it properly. T-CREATE has a good cheap cl38 kit
It will help me, thank you
Weeeell there are a ton of other things I have to learn to pick the parts soooo, Im fu*ed surely with the prices in my country
Realized that my DDR5 kit was a bit on the slower side since I kinda skimped on this. Now I know what my upgrade should be.
It’s pretty awesome they’ve manage to make ram so cheap tbh you can get 48gb of ram for 150$ at 5600 to 6000
Funny enough, i consider stability as well. I had 6000 mhz Corsair DDR5 and it gave me stability issues with the XMP profile enabled. Soooo i boight T-Create ram by Teamgroup, which is made for workstations, for its stability and reliability.
Never had any issues with running it at its max specs like with Corsair. Not sure if i had bad ram or something (since it ran fine with lower settings), but now I'm sticking with workstation ram.
I only buy dims with Samsung memory modules
its okay to buy from like sk hynix or micron if anything they have more reliable chips and for modules samsung is one of the bad choices rn, corsair or crucial would be better
@@benbo57 Corsair doesn't make their own modules, but I forgot about micron, micron has fire stuff, like crucial is always a safe bet
you only buy B-Dies or so @Parodidical ? because you live in the Zen 1-2 and i7 8700k days right? they wont do shit these days because the DDR4 support on 12/14th gen was just budged on to there rather then really implemented to the Chip to tide people over untill they got DDR5
DDR5 in general is just less expensy, but when you put B-Die on a lets say 13700k it will be much worse then on an 8700k alltho no bud should use an 8700k BUT :D thats when Samsungs B-Die was awesome because it rather cured the latency Delay of the individual Chiiplets (Infinity Fabric) which connected two CCXs to make up a 6 and 8 core Chip sooo yeah theres that, toss it or put it back into an old system and get some DDR5 bro, they make a difference in the 40 Series which is noticable ;)
the third spec to look for, is the spec that matters the least.
Its crazy that i know people at 8gb with a 2060. One of them is on a 2060 laptop gpu.
Can you talk about DDR3 for once please? I don’t care about DDR4 or DDR5
a few years ago before DDR5, I spent $200 on a 32 GB RAM kit because it was 4 sticks of CL16 at 3600mhz
There are more things that the brand doesn't tell you about memory specs like chip manufacturer(Samsung, Micron, SK Hynix), memory rank(1R, 2R), and memory depth & width(x4, x8, x16) that affect performance too
one important fact is the memory chip/module manufacture... even if your 3 things are correct, the quality and materials matter.
Who remembers the Corsair XMS RAM that used to run at something stupid like CL2-2-2-7.
Ddr2 ? 3 ?
@@silvioantonio6952 pretty sure it was DDR2. We're talking 20 years ago, my memory is a little foggy.
@@Adam_Tilbrook cool.
Who the hell needs 16 gigabytes??
litterally everyone who wants to game or do anything else besides browse the web lol
“Only three main specs you need to keep track of”
Oh man I can hear Buildzoid wanting to inject some nuance from here
You forgot the 4th spec, rgb
What’s your phone case?
Can u also do like astetic pc builds with the most possible Performenc possible on ur webside?
"You want this to be as low as possible.....for DDR4 a good rating to shoot for.."
bro literally started sounding like Firebase
4. Capacity per stick
Especially important in AMD systems. Higher the speeds, lower the chance of it working with 4 sticks. So if you get 2x8GB now, you will probably have to swap it to 2x16GB in the future instead of extending to 4x8GB. You can also check the QVL on the motherboard's support page for kits that support 4x8GB configuration.
Intel systems tend to be less picky about RAM, but depends on the overall configuration.
5. Try to pick RAM dedicated to your platform. For AMD, get RAM with EXPO/DOCP, for Intel get XMP. Don't forget to enable XMP or EXPO/DOCP in BIOS of your motherboard. If not sure what to get, consult QVL for your motherboard.
6. XMP enabled RAM is not always perfectly compatible with AMD CPUs. Memory controllers in Ryzen processors usually support slower speeds and there were multiple cases of people buying very fast kits (faster that recommended in this short) and while working perfectly on Intel platform with XMP enabled, they had to be either downclocked, adjusted timings (CL etc.) or both.
7. Always test your build with freeware memory testers like MemTest86+, that way you will be almost sure that your memory subsystem is stable under load with different type of simulated operations.
8. Remember about diminishing returns. When buying extremely fast kits, they tend to cost a lot more than standard ones. You won't get the performance increases compared to spending more money. There are a lots of videos about the subject, where buying the sweet spot kits compared to buying the high end ones net you 1-5% performance for twice the price (of course it depends on the type of load).
9. RGB on RAM could be troublesome to control, since you usually will need another piece of software running in the background. Unless you picked a combination, where for example motherboard software supports controlling your type of RAM RGB or you use opensource program (like OpenRGB) that can detect and control multiple RGB-enabled hardware.
10. Updating your motherboard's BIOS may change your RAM compatibility. New BIOS versions usually fix compatibility issues enabling you to use kits that previously didn't work, but there are instances that other factors can influence compatibility in a wrong way, like limiting the max voltage for memory controller, that directly affects max memory speeds and timings.
11. If you bought a prebuilt PC, go to BIOS and make sure OEM did their job correctly and enabled XMP/DOCP. This is often the case, where OEM will use nice, fast kits, then it will leave the standard memory profile, leaving the performance you paid for on the table.
Also remember to check if XMP/DOCP is enabled after every BIOS update or every BIOS settings clear, because the default is always the standard profile (according to JEDEC specs).
Short 137 for zachs pc box wall art