Thank you, my man! 🙏🛢️ I agree. Now that I’ve been wearing it, I am leaning more towards it being “worth it”! And now that I know how, it’ll be more efficient too - I could even do a few at once in bulk 😁
Very much enjoy your videos and really enjoy the content you create. I particularly appreciate how you show the "mishaps" and how you humorously resolve those issues. Very real, very frank, and something you don't often see on other UA-cam channels, where they only present a flawless final product. Liked, subscribed, and am looking forward to more...
Yo, thank you so much for the feedback, Leo! 🙏 I really appreciate it. Showing the mishaps along the way is an important part of the video, as it shows people what they could honestly expect along the way. I don't want to make it seem easy, when it's not! 😄 Fortunately, it happens to be fun and/or funny if you want it to be. Thanks for your viewership and support, and welcome aboard! 🤝
I’ve watched a few of your videos and I enjoy the content you put out. I especially appreciate you showing if things have gone wrong and what you did to fix it. Other UA-cam channels rarely show their mistakes, and the vast majority only show a video that is problem free, even when they have said they had trouble doing part of it.
Yo I really appreciate that, PickAny! 🙏 I believe its important to be honest about our mistakes - and especially in the context of a guide, where the information is valuable to other people! You’ve confirmed that it’s something the Community appreciates - so I will continue to do so! Thanks again, and have a great day! 🐐
That was entertaining. We used to use silicone oil for lubricating the magnetic recording drums used in old phone-in answer machine services. Messy stuff, you may want to look up "silicone oil contamination". Silicone oil has a tendency to "creep". That is, it escapes from where it is intended and coats everything in a thin film of itself. It is difficult to remove as it is inert and does not react to solvents. When we used it on those answer machines, the oil ended up coating all the other gear in the racks over time, making repair difficult.
Cheers, 68! 🙏 I'm glad the video entertained you 😁 Wow! 🤯 Thank you for alerting me to this... I did look it up, and also had to look up if ingesting Silicone Oil was dangerous! (It's not, your body can't absorb it 😅) This makes sense. Cleaning my tools was really difficult even with soap! I found the only real way to get rid of it is to DIRECTLY wipe it away. It simply won't rinse off otherwise. Fascinating facts you've shared. Thanks for weighing in! 🙏
I did a hydro mod on my f-91w about a year ago. Originally, I want to do hydro mod on my mw-59 which is an analog watch. But the lowest viscosity of silicone oil I could get in my local area is 350 cst, and that is super viscous. I thought with that much of viscosity, it would affect the movement of my watch's hands. So I decided to experiment the mod om my digital watch instead, and it worked. The watch is still running smoothly today, shows no problem at all. Also I had the exact same color of w-217h as yours, but unfortunately I lost it during the renovation of my house.
That's awesome!! 🙌 Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us, MD 🙏 Yeah good call, the last thing you would want is for the hands to be slowed down by the thick oil... Warping your perception of time each day! 😁 Great colour choice 😎👌 Hope your W-217H turns up for you one of these day! 🤞
Very informative video. I was considering doing similar to one of my watches, but based on your experience and the fairly limited reward for the hassle and cost, I'm going to pass on doing my own. Thanks.
Thanks, MTO! 🙏 I’m really glad this video helped you make an informed decision about Hydro Modding. You summed it up well. It’s not a mod for everyone! 👌
No worries,@@mto3009! In my opinion, the answer is yes - there is no going back. I suppose technically you could disassemble each and every part and clean away the greasy oil, but given how hard it was to get the oil off my hands and tool, I’d say it’s not realistic 😅 Hope this helps! 🙏
@@goatreviews Well, it turns out I got an inexpensive Casio W-800H Negative display which I hydro modded after modding the countdown timer and alarm features. I used a small plastic container when hydro-modding which turned out to be too small so it took me 4 tries to get all the bubbles out. Now that I did it, I love the watch. Display is now so crisp. Thanks for your video which was the encouragement I needed to make my own unique watch!😃
Yooo@@mto3009, great to hear from you again! 👋 I’m delighted that you found a way to perform the mod without too much risk. The W800H is very affordable, and I’m proud of you for performing the Countdown Timer and Alarm Mods too!🙏 Would love to see a pic of your creation in the Discord if you get the chance. 👌 How amazing does it feel to wear such a unique, highly customised watch?! 🤩
The only things that can suck is the fact that it can be a mess and that you HAVE to do the process again if you want to replace the battery, thankfully if it’s a watch it can a long time before you need to do that (assuming the oil doesn’t eat at the plastic)
Great points, Sultan! 🙏 I couldn’t agree more. 👌 It’s a sacrifice you have to accept, before deciding to attempt this mod. Ultimately, I’d love to one day try the Hydro Mod on one of my G-Shock’s with “Tough Solar”, which would completely remove the need to ever open it for a battery swap 🤩💭🔋 Regarding the eating of plastic, I have seen some of the softer plastics be eaten by the WD-40 branded silicone spray (explained in my recent videos of the borrowed GBX-100). I am hoping that the more neutral silicone oil that I have used, doesn’t have a corrosive affect. 👌
@@goatreviews"tough solar" doesn't mean it can last forever. It has a battery too that needs replacing eventually. In fact, it probably have a much shorter life than "10 year battery" regular power. For the past couple decades, I've used several "tough solar" Casios almost exclusively, believing this class of Casios could last forever. But none of them did. The longest ever is around 4.5 years before the necessary battery replacement. On the average, just 3 to 4 years. Realizing this thru years of buying "tough solar" and replacing batteries regularly, I've finally made the switch to the "10 year battery" casino royale for starters. Just today, I've placed an order on another "10 year battery" model, this time, a dual analog-digital Casio. And I'm eying another one. 3 more years to go, and I'll find out if this can last longer than tough solar.
@@allanbernabe38 Wow. This is eye opening! 👀 Tough Solar was honestly one of my most desired features - as I thought it would outlast a 10 Year battery! 🤯 I might have to rethink this now… Thank you for sharing your experience on this topic - I really appreciate it!
I think hydromods work best with either negative display or hand set watches . I’m curious if a radio controlled watch could be hydromoded and work well .
I’m yet to try this with a negative display - looking forward to seeing the impact on legibility! 👌 That’s a great question, Dave 🤔 The liquid may impact the way the wave signals are picked up! Thanks for weighing in 🙏
I guess, if anything, the oil should improve viewability under water, due to oil having a more similar refractive index to water compared to the air that would normally be inside the case. Although I'm not a diving watch user/expert/enthusiast by any measure, but I remember as a kid not being able to see my watch properly when I went swimming, so I assume that would fix this issue?
Bingo, Chay! 👏 One of the main benefits of the Hydro Mod 👌 I can confirm that having tested this underwater, there is no longer that 'highly-reflective air pocket' you speak of! 🙏
Haha, that it is, Paul! 😂 It looks like the RC and Watches hobbies go hand in hand! 🏎️🤝⌚️ Sounds like you might just have 1 foot in the door for a Hydro Mod 😜
I appreciate it, man! 👌 Yeah it’s one I put off for a while too, but was excited to try! 🤩 If you do try it some time, make sure you fully submerge the module SEPARATELY before reinstalling. That’s what I’ll do next time and it will go much smoother 😁🙏
@@Eksoteric fascinating! Would a small amount of ‘food colouring’ work, or is there a better way? I too would love to do a polarizer reversal at some point! It would make positive displays more accessible. There’s a couple of lads in the GOAT Reviews Discord who have showed pics of doing a reversal - which I might reference when I attempt this mod 😄
@@Eksoteric Excellent, thanks for the intel! 🫡 That’s a crazy idea, that just might work! I too have some glow powder I could try and add… would need a THOROUGH mixing to ensure it dispersed evenly without visible clumps 🤔
Hi Izul 👋 I've seen videos of people who have Hydro-modded watches with a date-window (Such as a Casio Duro), and it seems that the mechanical parts can still rotate and function in the Hydro Oil 😄👌
@@user-dx1zw5qy2e This is a good question. I had to look this up myself yesterday, as I haven’t experienced it personally! It looked like the fellow who did it to his Duro was able to unscrew the crown, and make adjustments without it leaking, because of the internal gasket. I would of course like to test this for myself some time though! 👌
I have done that 4 times in a row like for now, cause when I do once my friends are so interested to buy that, so I make for them, and I use 1000cps silicon oil on skmei 1883, The first one I use 350cps but it's kinda not viscous enough. So for now I always use at least 1000cps viscosity for digital watches.
I manage to successfuly moded mine without any bubbles at first try. But I noticed that the button not work properly because my silicon oil is too thick. I removed all the oil and dissasembled whole parts washed it on tab water 2 times. Oil keep flowing between the display panels. washed again. Assemble again. and watch still works. This is crazy tough watch.
Thank you Andrea! 🙏 This is on my mind actually, as I was thinking of modding an analog soon! Would this 100 cSt oil be too thick for it, or would it still work? 🤔
In my hydro-modding adventure I used spray lubricant, which is about as thin as it gets. The WD-40 branded Silicon lubricant is very yellow-ish and has some gunk in it but despite this it works well for hydro-modding.
Thanks @@WyvernDotRed ! 🙏 Man, having just read your other comment about the seals being affected and dissolving - Could this be a result of the WD-40 specifically? My inkling is that this specific lubricant is designed to penetrate, and destroy blockages, which may explain why it damaged the plastics and rubbers inside your watch! 🤯
@@goatreviews I said WD-40 *branded* with a reason, WD-40 the product is a de-greaser whereas WD-40 the brand makes all kinds of oil products. What I used being a spray can *silicone lubricant*, so pretty much very thin silicone oil with some additives. I don't recall the source but in my research of the hydro-mod I found that the silicone part of the oil is what swells some rubber/silicone, so it's probably not some other additive in the stuff I used. This considered it is better to use mineral oil in the watch, but I wanted the thinnest oil I could get to keep the vibration alarm working (successfully).
@@WyvernDotRed ah, true. Yeah when I hear WD-40 I immediately think of their concoctions for removing grease 😅 Interesting that it’s the silicone itself that causes the swelling. It’s something I’ll be mindful of! Well done! 👌 I’m glad you were able to preserve the vibration alarm functionality - it’s one of my favourites feature of all time 🤩
I’m glad you liked it, Strangeguy! 👌 Yeah as much as I’d LOVE to attempt this on a Tough Solar Watch (No need to ever open it again - since infinite battery ☀️🔋), the MR-G won’t be taking that bullet any time soon 😁 🙌🥜
Oh I can one-up even that, I have hydro-modded a GBX-100, it's MIP LCD not needing any contrast improvement. And this style of screen gets destroyed in oil, as I learned the hard way, but also (mostly) repaired it again. Another problem I learned about with using silicon oil is that some seals swell in it, to the point of no longer fitting. I had to 3D-print a new shock absorber and even o-ring, which surprisingly fully holds. You can find my in-depth post, which also shows off the mistake, by looking for "watchuseek GBX-100 hydro".
Incredible! I am surprised you attempted it on a MIP display,@@WyvernDotRed ! 🤯 How did you manage to repair the destroyed parts of the screen? Oh man, I hope my seals don't swell - as I don't own a 3D printer! Does this include the O-Rings in the case-backs and pushers? 😱 WOW! I just checked out your post - I see what you mean now! Thanks for sharing that. BTW, I'd like to share an improvement which may help resolve the 'stuffed in' look that happens with NATO's of a too-big size. Here's the short where I found a way around this! ua-cam.com/users/shortsaUnqn68yzhY
@@goatreviews by replacing the polariser film that got messed up with a new one that works well enough. It has some light interference pattern issues akin to looking at a bad screen-protector with polarised sunglasses, but that adds to the charm of the project I think. The pushers and front glass *seal* (not the bumper, though it could stay) were fine, they are constrained enough to stay in place. I had to replace the back case seal, but the original ring shrunk back to it's original size, the internal bumper did not. And I already considered cutting and melting that NATO, but will only go as far if it becomes uncomfortable. I don't mind the stuffed look though and for that I'd rather 3D-print covers, as I mentioned somewhere in the lengthy post.
Good stuff, @@WyvernDotRed! 👌 Glad it worked out for you in the end, with your unique solution! 🤩 Yeah fair call. If it gets to that point, you know what to do!
Thanks Emily! 🙏 I’m glad you enjoyed the video 😁 You’re right - “Ultrasonic Cleaner” is the correct phrase, though I had to bite my tongue for this particular product. (This thing is nowhere near ultrasonic, and really is just a cheap motor spinning around inside) 😜
This is a smart suggestion! 🙏 I wish I’d have done that - Like I did when I restored my GD-X6900 Thankfully, I hadn’t owned this W217H for too long before performing this - So hopefully the battery is still somewhat fresh from the factory 😁
Good point, Luminati! 👌 It’s something I have come to accept - when a battery swap is due, it will be messy and I’d have to top up the oil again. It’s made me look forward to trying a hydro mod on a TOUGH SOLAR watch, so battery swapping is never an issue 🤩💭
@@TE_53349Thanks for the tip. 👌 It’s good to have a fresh battery to optimise the time before it needs to be swapped too - which I imagine is going to be MESSY after a hydro mod 😂
Great question. Sure thing, Strangeguy! 😁 So when I reinstalled the module, I wasn’t careful to ensure that all the pushers were fully extended. I kind of had to ‘force’ the module back in, which should have been a red flag 🚩 All I did to fix it was to remove the module again, use a tool to fully extend the pushers (after I’d pumped them a few times for good measure, which also released bubbles), and then carefully reinserted the module! 😉 Best of luck if you attempt a Hydro Mod, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions! 🙏
Hi Nopo, thanks for raising this 👌 This silicone oil has been selected so as to avoid reacting with the internal plastics and rubbers. I know exactly what you're referring to though, I have seen pictures of the damage and swelling caused to the internal components after an incorrect oil was used! Thanks for weighing in with this caution. 🙏
Oh, that’s cool! I’ve always wondered about that technique 🤔 I’ve posted a review on my ‘Gaming Mouse’ which boasts a similar “IPX Water Resistance” rating of the exposed, main board! Perhaps that’s the company that does it!
Great question, RSG! I should have explained or given it more time - but basically it was a matter of not having the pushers FULLY extended when I reinstalled the module. This can cause them to get jammed. So on the next attempt, I made sure they were extended fully, and that they didn’t bump into the side of the “oil bath” and get pushed back in 😅
Good question! 👌 To be honest, I’m not certain on the answer, but it’s something I came across in my research for this mod. If I had to guess, I would say it comes from Hydro Modding analog watches, where if the oil was too thick, it might actually slow down the movements of the mechanism. So for a digital watch, this may not be an issue! Another reason might be to do with the ability of bubbles to form? 🤔
It sure does. 😎 I'm proud to wear it with all its added functionality - I was missing that Countdown Timer, BIG-TIME! Thanks Sam, I appreciate it! 🙏 You and I should collab sometime, brother!
@goatreviews Is there a special reason for the low cSt siloil? In an analog watch (quartz and especially mechanical, like Sinn) the lower viscosity will make sense, since higher cSt causes drag. But for a digital watch, any "suitable" siloil with higher cSt would work fine, or?
This is a great point, Ulf! 👌 Perhaps you’re right, for digital watches there wouldn’t be as much necessity, as there isn’t moving parts. 🤔 I do plan on using mine in an Analog watch though, the Casio Duro 🤩
I have a Casio A158 and I want to do the hydro mod when I do is can I take the watch in the ocean and shower with it on without having to worry about breaking it
Awesome 👌 If you successfully complete the hydro mod, you could absolutely take it swimming or showering without worrying about water getting inside. The oil inside prevents water from entering, which greatly increases the water resistance 😁👌
Great question Eric! I’ve already recorded the footage so just need to edit it 🐝 Now that I’ve finished releasing the Hydro Mod video, I’ll move this up my priority list for you 😉
My thoughts exactly. 💯🙏 Though I will say this - I was slowed down by the fact that I was recording the process, and looking through the camera. So it may be much quicker for someone else to complete. Now that the mods is completed, I am quite happy I did it! So I am considering doing maybe a couple more hydro mods at once, to be more efficient! 👌
Good on you, Christian! 😂🥜🥜 Absolutely peanuts indeed!! That’s a really good point actually. Something I realised last night as a spammed the backlight button 🥲🪫 It will be years before it’s a problem, right? Though perhaps the most ideal candidate for a Hydro Mod is a watch with Tough Solar! ☀️
@@goatreviews Tough solar might be the way to go... 👍😉 You said the oil is rather expensive - though i would think that makes less sense on a budget watch - every batt change would cost you more than the actual watch... 😅 But i think it was a nice training for your next oil mod... but which watch will it be, worth the hustle? 🤪😳🤔🥜😇
@@Katzenkotze85 Wow, I didn’t think of it like that! Every precious millilitre of oil counts. I definitely wasted more oil by spilling it and covering my hands / tools than was actually used to fill the watch 😂😂 As you said it’s great practice though. I reckon I will use this remaining oil on at least one more watch to keep practising - and help it pay itself off 😁 Then I’ll be prepared for a ‘higher risk’ hydro mod!
@@goatreviews haha... that's somehow funny... my german way of thinking went directly to the question, is that economical viable... ? 😅🤪 I think the training you got was worth it... and the fun... and the education for us... SOOO no money was wasted... yet! 😜👍😉
¡Punto justo, Control Total! He escuchado a algunas personas dejar su burbuja por "razones de expansión térmica", aunque yo quité la mía por razones estéticas. Si tuviera que dejar una burbuja, mi plan sería lanzar un chorro de aire deliberadamente a través de la jeringa y luego capturar una de las burbujas detrás de la parte trasera de la caja. Esto sería lo mejor de ambos mundos, ya que obtendrías los beneficios de expansión térmica de la burbuja, sin tener que verla a través de la lente de la pantalla desde el frente 😁
Hi Franke, the reasons to perform a Hydro Mod described in the video are: 👀 Increased clarity of the screen, with better viewing angles 💧 Improved Water Resistance
Liked the video, but this "mod" seems like a solution to a problem that nobody is having. If anyone needs more depth from their watch, Casio sells G-Shocks that go to 200M. That's deeper than anyone reading this will ever take their watch... Most recreational scuba stops at 130 feet... Navy Seals have been known to go as deep as 300 feet. That's still less than half of what a bone stock unmodded 200M G-Shock can do...
Fair point! In the context of water resistance, I agree 💯 G-Shocks and Casio's generally have an EXCESSIVE water resistance rating that most of us would ever breach. I will say that there's one added benefit to this mod that may make it appealing to some - and that is the improved visibility of the display. 👌 Thanks for weighing in, Squire! 🙏
Hello Goat reviews , I was wondering can I use this silicone oil as a refill for my lubricating foam for watches? the ones inside the foam were liquid clear type silicone oil not the white opaque color ones.
G’day SO20! 👋 Great question! It’s something I considered doing if my lubricant-joints foam ever felt like it was running low. I’ve never taken a closer look at the oil type in the sponge, but I believe it is labeled as “GREASE” rather than oil? 🧽 So I imagine it would have a slightly different consistency. A grease would be much thicker than an oil, right? That being said, at the end of the day topping it up with oil may achieve the same effect. 🤔 I’d be willing to give it a try when needed, as the replacement sponges aren’t very expensive! 😁
That’s a great question, Roadgent! 🙏 I’ve found that generally, models with a single digit apart in model number, can exchange modules - such as F-91 and F-94. But the w217 and w218 are a bit different in shape. If I get a W218, I will be sure to test this for you! (Though it might be messy, since my W217 is now filled with oil 😁)
Hey Ink! 👋 It can seem simple on paper, but it takes a bit of time and can get quite messy. Also as you saw, it can be easy to stuff up the reassembly 😁 So personally, I wouldn't consider it simple 😅
I am very intrigued by this, Mr.DippsChad! Would you please elaborate on what this means specifically? I'm keen for another Hydro Mod so might be able to give it a try!
What I mean is how some watches got a screw down back,some has screw down plate with screws and some you have to snap the back shut. If you know what I mean.
Ah, I understand @Mr.DippsChad 👌 Are you familiar with any Casio watch models with a “snap back”? Most of my collection is the screw down plate, with one watch (MDV-106) having the other type of screw down case
It’s a trade off of money and time for a very marginal benefit - it’s not for everyone. Having spent a bit more time with this watch, I’m glad I did it! Though next time, I plan to do more than one hydro mod at once so it’s more worthwhile. Cheers for weighing in, Frank! 🙏
Спасибо за предупреждение, Семен. Я учел этот фактор, поскольку один из наших знающих членов сообщества посоветовал мне оставить пузырек на канале Discord! Как вы понимаете, мне не хотелось покидать Пузырь по косметическим причинам. Так что я пока посмотрю, как эти часы будут работать без пузырька 🤞 По вашему мнению, если бы я оставил пузырь в ЗАДНЕЙ половине часов, за модулем, это предотвратило бы тепловое расширение, а также предотвратило бы пузырь показывает в передней линзе? 🤔
🐏 RAM the Like Button 👍 to help us grow! 📈 What are your thoughts on Hydro Modding? Worth it, or not? 💉💧⌚🤔💬 Comment Below! 👇
I got question. If you hydromod a date watch, would it mess up the liquid if I were to adjust the date?
Excellent go at the oil mod! Looks really challenging but certainly worth the effort!
Thank you, my man! 🙏🛢️
I agree. Now that I’ve been wearing it, I am leaning more towards it being “worth it”!
And now that I know how, it’ll be more efficient too - I could even do a few at once in bulk 😁
Very much enjoy your videos and really enjoy the content you create.
I particularly appreciate how you show the "mishaps" and how you humorously resolve those issues. Very real, very frank, and something you don't often see on other UA-cam channels, where they only present a flawless final product.
Liked, subscribed, and am looking forward to more...
Yo, thank you so much for the feedback, Leo! 🙏 I really appreciate it.
Showing the mishaps along the way is an important part of the video, as it shows people what they could honestly expect along the way. I don't want to make it seem easy, when it's not! 😄
Fortunately, it happens to be fun and/or funny if you want it to be.
Thanks for your viewership and support, and welcome aboard! 🤝
I’ve watched a few of your videos and I enjoy the content you put out. I especially appreciate you showing if things have gone wrong and what you did to fix it. Other UA-cam channels rarely show their mistakes, and the vast majority only show a video that is problem free, even when they have said they had trouble doing part of it.
Yo I really appreciate that, PickAny! 🙏
I believe its important to be honest about our mistakes - and especially in the context of a guide, where the information is valuable to other people! You’ve confirmed that it’s something the Community appreciates - so I will continue to do so!
Thanks again, and have a great day! 🐐
That was entertaining. We used to use silicone oil for lubricating the magnetic recording drums used in old phone-in answer machine services. Messy stuff, you may want to look up "silicone oil contamination". Silicone oil has a tendency to "creep". That is, it escapes from where it is intended and coats everything in a thin film of itself. It is difficult to remove as it is inert and does not react to solvents. When we used it on those answer machines, the oil ended up coating all the other gear in the racks over time, making repair difficult.
Cheers, 68! 🙏 I'm glad the video entertained you 😁
Wow! 🤯 Thank you for alerting me to this... I did look it up, and also had to look up if ingesting Silicone Oil was dangerous! (It's not, your body can't absorb it 😅)
This makes sense. Cleaning my tools was really difficult even with soap! I found the only real way to get rid of it is to DIRECTLY wipe it away. It simply won't rinse off otherwise.
Fascinating facts you've shared. Thanks for weighing in! 🙏
As in the movie “The Abyss”, the fluid will allow you to reach incredible sea depths 😄
It sure will, Davide! I can’t see any way this watch could get water damaged now that it’s filled with oil. I might just have to take up diving! 🤣
I did a hydro mod on my f-91w about a year ago.
Originally, I want to do hydro mod on my mw-59 which is an analog watch.
But the lowest viscosity of silicone oil I could get in my local area is 350 cst, and that is super viscous.
I thought with that much of viscosity, it would affect the movement of my watch's hands.
So I decided to experiment the mod om my digital watch instead, and it worked.
The watch is still running smoothly today, shows no problem at all.
Also I had the exact same color of w-217h as yours, but unfortunately I lost it during the renovation of my house.
That's awesome!! 🙌 Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us, MD 🙏
Yeah good call, the last thing you would want is for the hands to be slowed down by the thick oil... Warping your perception of time each day! 😁
Great colour choice 😎👌 Hope your W-217H turns up for you one of these day! 🤞
Very informative video. I was considering doing similar to one of my watches, but based on your experience and the fairly limited reward for the hassle and cost, I'm going to pass on doing my own. Thanks.
Thanks, MTO! 🙏 I’m really glad this video helped you make an informed decision about Hydro Modding. You summed it up well. It’s not a mod for everyone! 👌
Btw@@goatreviews, once you do a hydro-mod, is there no going back? I.e. is cleaning a hydro-modded watch not feasible? Thanks for your thoughts.
No worries,@@mto3009!
In my opinion, the answer is yes - there is no going back. I suppose technically you could disassemble each and every part and clean away the greasy oil, but given how hard it was to get the oil off my hands and tool, I’d say it’s not realistic 😅 Hope this helps! 🙏
@@goatreviews Well, it turns out I got an inexpensive Casio W-800H Negative display which I hydro modded after modding the countdown timer and alarm features. I used a small plastic container when hydro-modding which turned out to be too small so it took me 4 tries to get all the bubbles out. Now that I did it, I love the watch. Display is now so crisp. Thanks for your video which was the encouragement I needed to make my own unique watch!😃
Yooo@@mto3009, great to hear from you again! 👋
I’m delighted that you found a way to perform the mod without too much risk. The W800H is very affordable, and I’m proud of you for performing the Countdown Timer and Alarm Mods too!🙏
Would love to see a pic of your creation in the Discord if you get the chance. 👌
How amazing does it feel to wear such a unique, highly customised watch?! 🤩
The only things that can suck is the fact that it can be a mess and that you HAVE to do the process again if you want to replace the battery, thankfully if it’s a watch it can a long time before you need to do that (assuming the oil doesn’t eat at the plastic)
Great points, Sultan! 🙏
I couldn’t agree more. 👌 It’s a sacrifice you have to accept, before deciding to attempt this mod.
Ultimately, I’d love to one day try the Hydro Mod on one of my G-Shock’s with “Tough Solar”, which would completely remove the need to ever open it for a battery swap 🤩💭🔋
Regarding the eating of plastic, I have seen some of the softer plastics be eaten by the WD-40 branded silicone spray (explained in my recent videos of the borrowed GBX-100). I am hoping that the more neutral silicone oil that I have used, doesn’t have a corrosive affect. 👌
@@goatreviews"tough solar" doesn't mean it can last forever. It has a battery too that needs replacing eventually. In fact, it probably have a much shorter life than "10 year battery" regular power. For the past couple decades, I've used several "tough solar" Casios almost exclusively, believing this class of Casios could last forever. But none of them did. The longest ever is around 4.5 years before the necessary battery replacement. On the average, just 3 to 4 years.
Realizing this thru years of buying "tough solar" and replacing batteries regularly, I've finally made the switch to the "10 year battery" casino royale for starters. Just today, I've placed an order on another "10 year battery" model, this time, a dual analog-digital Casio. And I'm eying another one. 3 more years to go, and I'll find out if this can last longer than tough solar.
@@goatreviewsyou'd probably be better off "hydro modding" a "10 year battery" Casio.
@@allanbernabe38 Wow. This is eye opening! 👀
Tough Solar was honestly one of my most desired features - as I thought it would outlast a 10 Year battery! 🤯
I might have to rethink this now…
Thank you for sharing your experience on this topic - I really appreciate it!
@@allanbernabe38 Cheers Allan. Agreed 💯 This makes a lot more sense for minimising the need to re-hydromod it! 😁👌
I think hydromods work best with either negative display or hand set watches . I’m curious if a radio controlled watch could be hydromoded and work well .
I’m yet to try this with a negative display - looking forward to seeing the impact on legibility! 👌
That’s a great question, Dave 🤔 The liquid may impact the way the wave signals are picked up!
Thanks for weighing in 🙏
I guess, if anything, the oil should improve viewability under water, due to oil having a more similar refractive index to water compared to the air that would normally be inside the case. Although I'm not a diving watch user/expert/enthusiast by any measure, but I remember as a kid not being able to see my watch properly when I went swimming, so I assume that would fix this issue?
Bingo, Chay! 👏 One of the main benefits of the Hydro Mod 👌
I can confirm that having tested this underwater, there is no longer that 'highly-reflective air pocket' you speak of! 🙏
Looks great !
Thanks Baruch! 🙏 Very happy with it. In fact, you've inspired me to wear this today 😁
Ha Ha that's RC shock oil your using there!
Haha, that it is, Paul! 😂
It looks like the RC and Watches hobbies go hand in hand! 🏎️🤝⌚️
Sounds like you might just have 1 foot in the door for a Hydro Mod 😜
@goatreviews nah too expensive and fiddly for me I think buddy!
@@paulmcnamara2908 Understandable, Paul! After what I went through with mine, I can’t say I blame you 😜
nicely done homie. hydro mod is something i have not personally tried yet.
I appreciate it, man! 👌
Yeah it’s one I put off for a while too, but was excited to try! 🤩
If you do try it some time, make sure you fully submerge the module SEPARATELY before reinstalling. That’s what I’ll do next time and it will go much smoother 😁🙏
@@goatreviews also you can tint the oil to give a different color to it. one thing i want to do but afraid of doing is reversing the polarizer
@@Eksoteric fascinating! Would a small amount of ‘food colouring’ work, or is there a better way?
I too would love to do a polarizer reversal at some point! It would make positive displays more accessible. There’s a couple of lads in the GOAT Reviews Discord who have showed pics of doing a reversal - which I might reference when I attempt this mod 😄
@@goatreviews oil based dyes will work. there is this crazy glowing powder i found that could make it really cool
@@Eksoteric Excellent, thanks for the intel! 🫡
That’s a crazy idea, that just might work! I too have some glow powder I could try and add… would need a THOROUGH mixing to ensure it dispersed evenly without visible clumps 🤔
I got question. If you hydromod a date watch, would it mess up the liquid if I were to adjust the date?
Hi Izul 👋 I've seen videos of people who have Hydro-modded watches with a date-window (Such as a Casio Duro), and it seems that the mechanical parts can still rotate and function in the Hydro Oil 😄👌
@@goatreviews I mean, when we adjust the date of hydro modded watches, would the liquid inside leaks?
@@user-dx1zw5qy2e This is a good question. I had to look this up myself yesterday, as I haven’t experienced it personally! It looked like the fellow who did it to his Duro was able to unscrew the crown, and make adjustments without it leaking, because of the internal gasket. I would of course like to test this for myself some time though! 👌
I have done that 4 times in a row like for now, cause when I do once my friends are so interested to buy that, so I make for them, and I use 1000cps silicon oil on skmei 1883,
The first one I use 350cps but it's kinda not viscous enough. So for now I always use at least 1000cps viscosity for digital watches.
Amazing! That must have been quite the experience to do it 4 times 😁
Thanks for sharing your adjustments in the optimal viscosity. 🙏
@@goatreviews it's have been a little bit easier everytime i do
I manage to successfuly moded mine without any bubbles at first try. But I noticed that the button not work properly because my silicon oil is too thick.
I removed all the oil and dissasembled whole parts washed it on tab water 2 times. Oil keep flowing between the display panels.
washed again. Assemble again. and watch still works. This is crazy tough watch.
Incredible! Well done on your efforts. 👌 Was yours also a W217H, or another model?
Sounds very resilient 🤯
@@goatreviews Same model W217h. Thank you for your video. I wouldn't have tried it if there is no proof like yours.
Wonderful. I'm so glad to hear that my video inspired you to complete this mod! 🙏 Thanks Manul 😊
You should try again with a vacuum chamber.
Cool idea! 💡 Thanks for the suggestion 🙏
nice mod as always🥜
Cheers Cat! 😁🙏
Woah, and he’s stumbled into the Peanut as well! 🤯 Well done brother! ✌️
@@goatreviews thank you
Good job! For the ones with an analogic dial you should use a even smoother oil
Thank you Andrea! 🙏 This is on my mind actually, as I was thinking of modding an analog soon! Would this 100 cSt oil be too thick for it, or would it still work? 🤔
In my hydro-modding adventure I used spray lubricant, which is about as thin as it gets.
The WD-40 branded Silicon lubricant is very yellow-ish and has some gunk in it but despite this it works well for hydro-modding.
Thanks @@WyvernDotRed ! 🙏
Man, having just read your other comment about the seals being affected and dissolving - Could this be a result of the WD-40 specifically? My inkling is that this specific lubricant is designed to penetrate, and destroy blockages, which may explain why it damaged the plastics and rubbers inside your watch! 🤯
@@goatreviews I said WD-40 *branded* with a reason, WD-40 the product is a de-greaser whereas WD-40 the brand makes all kinds of oil products.
What I used being a spray can *silicone lubricant*, so pretty much very thin silicone oil with some additives.
I don't recall the source but in my research of the hydro-mod I found that the silicone part of the oil is what swells some rubber/silicone, so it's probably not some other additive in the stuff I used.
This considered it is better to use mineral oil in the watch, but I wanted the thinnest oil I could get to keep the vibration alarm working (successfully).
@@WyvernDotRed ah, true. Yeah when I hear WD-40 I immediately think of their concoctions for removing grease 😅
Interesting that it’s the silicone itself that causes the swelling. It’s something I’ll be mindful of!
Well done! 👌 I’m glad you were able to preserve the vibration alarm functionality - it’s one of my favourites feature of all time 🤩
Excellent video Goaty! Not sure I'd try it on a Mr G but damn, looks good! (peanut!)
I’m glad you liked it, Strangeguy! 👌
Yeah as much as I’d LOVE to attempt this on a Tough Solar Watch (No need to ever open it again - since infinite battery ☀️🔋), the MR-G won’t be taking that bullet any time soon 😁
🙌🥜
Oh I can one-up even that, I have hydro-modded a GBX-100, it's MIP LCD not needing any contrast improvement.
And this style of screen gets destroyed in oil, as I learned the hard way, but also (mostly) repaired it again.
Another problem I learned about with using silicon oil is that some seals swell in it, to the point of no longer fitting.
I had to 3D-print a new shock absorber and even o-ring, which surprisingly fully holds.
You can find my in-depth post, which also shows off the mistake, by looking for "watchuseek GBX-100 hydro".
Incredible! I am surprised you attempted it on a MIP display,@@WyvernDotRed ! 🤯
How did you manage to repair the destroyed parts of the screen?
Oh man, I hope my seals don't swell - as I don't own a 3D printer! Does this include the O-Rings in the case-backs and pushers? 😱
WOW! I just checked out your post - I see what you mean now! Thanks for sharing that. BTW, I'd like to share an improvement which may help resolve the 'stuffed in' look that happens with NATO's of a too-big size. Here's the short where I found a way around this!
ua-cam.com/users/shortsaUnqn68yzhY
@@goatreviews by replacing the polariser film that got messed up with a new one that works well enough.
It has some light interference pattern issues akin to looking at a bad screen-protector with polarised sunglasses, but that adds to the charm of the project I think.
The pushers and front glass *seal* (not the bumper, though it could stay) were fine, they are constrained enough to stay in place.
I had to replace the back case seal, but the original ring shrunk back to it's original size, the internal bumper did not.
And I already considered cutting and melting that NATO, but will only go as far if it becomes uncomfortable.
I don't mind the stuffed look though and for that I'd rather 3D-print covers, as I mentioned somewhere in the lengthy post.
Good stuff, @@WyvernDotRed! 👌
Glad it worked out for you in the end, with your unique solution! 🤩
Yeah fair call. If it gets to that point, you know what to do!
By vibration cleaner he meant "ultrasonic cleaner" :). Fun to watch video btw.
Thanks Emily! 🙏 I’m glad you enjoyed the video 😁
You’re right - “Ultrasonic Cleaner” is the correct phrase, though I had to bite my tongue for this particular product. (This thing is nowhere near ultrasonic, and really is just a cheap motor spinning around inside) 😜
just busted a 🥜 to this mod, insane
LOL 😂🙏 Glad you enjoyed the mod!... Perhaps a little too much 😁
Should have swapped the battery so you'd have to open it later than sooner.
This is a smart suggestion! 🙏
I wish I’d have done that - Like I did when I restored my GD-X6900
Thankfully, I hadn’t owned this W217H for too long before performing this - So hopefully the battery is still somewhat fresh from the factory 😁
Can you still hear the alarm afterwards?
Great question! This is the first thing I thought of too 😁
Astoundingly, YES! The alarm is still very much audible 👌
Sound like it's going to be a pain to swap batteries tho.
Hahaha, oh it ABSOLUTELY IS! 😅 Let's see how we can cross that bridge when we get to it 😜
I guess it's ok if you don't mind changing the battery when needed.
Good point, Luminati! 👌
It’s something I have come to accept - when a battery swap is due, it will be messy and I’d have to top up the oil again.
It’s made me look forward to trying a hydro mod on a TOUGH SOLAR watch, so battery swapping is never an issue 🤩💭
people sa not to hdromod mechanical watches but ive done mine and still going 4 ears late. spot on with the time (its obviousl a low viscosity oil)
That’s awesome! 🙌 4 years is a LONG time. I’d love to Hydro Mod my Casio Duro - it would look amazing.
Well done, and thanks for inspiring me 🤩🙏
just make sure you put a fresh battery in, otherwise it may have issues staying the correct time with the added resistance
@@TE_53349Thanks for the tip. 👌 It’s good to have a fresh battery to optimise the time before it needs to be swapped too - which I imagine is going to be MESSY after a hydro mod 😂
@@goatreviews certainly is haha
Could you explain what the problem with the buttons were, and how did you fix it?
Great question. Sure thing, Strangeguy! 😁
So when I reinstalled the module, I wasn’t careful to ensure that all the pushers were fully extended. I kind of had to ‘force’ the module back in, which should have been a red flag 🚩
All I did to fix it was to remove the module again, use a tool to fully extend the pushers (after I’d pumped them a few times for good measure, which also released bubbles), and then carefully reinserted the module! 😉
Best of luck if you attempt a Hydro Mod, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions! 🙏
But how about oils are derivated from petrol and almost all oils damage plastics and rubber
Hi Nopo, thanks for raising this 👌 This silicone oil has been selected so as to avoid reacting with the internal plastics and rubbers.
I know exactly what you're referring to though, I have seen pictures of the damage and swelling caused to the internal components after an incorrect oil was used! Thanks for weighing in with this caution. 🙏
I suscribed to your channel this is great .sorry for my brute english
I thought you where going to water proof the circuit board. I have heard of a company that does this, but it was years ago.
Oh, that’s cool! I’ve always wondered about that technique 🤔 I’ve posted a review on my ‘Gaming Mouse’ which boasts a similar “IPX Water Resistance” rating of the exposed, main board! Perhaps that’s the company that does it!
What did you do to get the buttons working?
Great question, RSG!
I should have explained or given it more time - but basically it was a matter of not having the pushers FULLY extended when I reinstalled the module. This can cause them to get jammed. So on the next attempt, I made sure they were extended fully, and that they didn’t bump into the side of the “oil bath” and get pushed back in 😅
why does the oil have to be low-viscosity ?
Good question! 👌 To be honest, I’m not certain on the answer, but it’s something I came across in my research for this mod.
If I had to guess, I would say it comes from Hydro Modding analog watches, where if the oil was too thick, it might actually slow down the movements of the mechanism. So for a digital watch, this may not be an issue!
Another reason might be to do with the ability of bubbles to form? 🤔
Cool mod. Looks good!
It sure does. 😎 I'm proud to wear it with all its added functionality - I was missing that Countdown Timer, BIG-TIME!
Thanks Sam, I appreciate it! 🙏 You and I should collab sometime, brother!
This would be insane on something like the ae1500!
It sure would! 🤩 I'll have to test it on the AE-1500 once I've unboxed it 👌
@@goatreviews would be absolutely insane on that
@goatreviews
Is there a special reason for the low cSt siloil?
In an analog watch (quartz and especially mechanical, like Sinn) the lower viscosity will make sense, since higher cSt causes drag.
But for a digital watch, any "suitable" siloil with higher cSt would work fine, or?
This is a great point, Ulf! 👌
Perhaps you’re right, for digital watches there wouldn’t be as much necessity, as there isn’t moving parts. 🤔
I do plan on using mine in an Analog watch though, the Casio Duro 🤩
@@goatreviews I'm looking into a "10 year battery" oilfilled Duro 🙂.
@@umollerstrom That sounds amazing 🤩 I’d love to see how it goes! 👀
Please do share your progress in the Discord if you wouldn’t mind 👌
I have a Casio A158 and I want to do the hydro mod when I do is can I take the watch in the ocean and shower with it on without having to worry about breaking it
Awesome 👌
If you successfully complete the hydro mod, you could absolutely take it swimming or showering without worrying about water getting inside. The oil inside prevents water from entering, which greatly increases the water resistance 😁👌
@@goatreviews dose it make the batter die quicker
When will be the bumblebee Casio short is coming
Great question Eric! I’ve already recorded the footage so just need to edit it 🐝
Now that I’ve finished releasing the Hydro Mod video, I’ll move this up my priority list for you 😉
@@goatreviews thank you 😁
No worries @@ericjohn6169 ! I'm just finishing up editing, and will have it posted tomorrow 😁
Excellent video thanks.But....too much work and hours of effort,for almost nothing....Does it really worth it?
My thoughts exactly. 💯🙏
Though I will say this - I was slowed down by the fact that I was recording the process, and looking through the camera. So it may be much quicker for someone else to complete.
Now that the mods is completed, I am quite happy I did it! So I am considering doing maybe a couple more hydro mods at once, to be more efficient! 👌
This mod is Peanuts! 😂🥜🥜🥜🥜🥜🥜🥞🥞🥞🥞🍍😉
Every battery change will cause the same work.... really worth it? 😮
Good on you, Christian! 😂🥜🥜
Absolutely peanuts indeed!!
That’s a really good point actually. Something I realised last night as a spammed the backlight button 🥲🪫
It will be years before it’s a problem, right? Though perhaps the most ideal candidate for a Hydro Mod is a watch with Tough Solar! ☀️
@@goatreviews Tough solar might be the way to go... 👍😉
You said the oil is rather expensive - though i would think that makes less sense on a budget watch - every batt change would cost you more than the actual watch... 😅
But i think it was a nice training for your next oil mod... but which watch will it be, worth the hustle? 🤪😳🤔🥜😇
@@Katzenkotze85 Wow, I didn’t think of it like that! Every precious millilitre of oil counts. I definitely wasted more oil by spilling it and covering my hands / tools than was actually used to fill the watch 😂😂
As you said it’s great practice though. I reckon I will use this remaining oil on at least one more watch to keep practising - and help it pay itself off 😁 Then I’ll be prepared for a ‘higher risk’ hydro mod!
@@goatreviews haha... that's somehow funny... my german way of thinking went directly to the question, is that economical viable... ? 😅🤪
I think the training you got was worth it... and the fun... and the education for us... SOOO no money was wasted... yet! 😜👍😉
Does the oil come out , every time you press the button?
Great question, Jasper! 👌
I have not experienced any leaks with the oil when pressing any buttons. The rubber seals around the buttons do a good job 👍
Aaayyyyyyyyy 420!!!!
Very observant of you! 😎 May as well start somewhere significant, right? 😁👌
Me preguntaba como dejar la burbuja en el display... y tu la quitaste. En los hydro se deja la burbuja
¡Punto justo, Control Total! He escuchado a algunas personas dejar su burbuja por "razones de expansión térmica", aunque yo quité la mía por razones estéticas. Si tuviera que dejar una burbuja, mi plan sería lanzar un chorro de aire deliberadamente a través de la jeringa y luego capturar una de las burbujas detrás de la parte trasera de la caja. Esto sería lo mejor de ambos mundos, ya que obtendrías los beneficios de expansión térmica de la burbuja, sin tener que verla a través de la lente de la pantalla desde el frente 😁
Muchas gracias por la sugerencia, lo hare asi. Es un gran canal!@@goatreviews
Warum/wofür macht man das?
Hi Franke, the reasons to perform a Hydro Mod described in the video are:
👀 Increased clarity of the screen, with better viewing angles
💧 Improved Water Resistance
Liked the video, but this "mod" seems like a solution to a problem that nobody is having. If anyone needs more depth from their watch, Casio sells G-Shocks that go to 200M. That's deeper than anyone reading this will ever take their watch... Most recreational scuba stops at 130 feet... Navy Seals have been known to go as deep as 300 feet. That's still less than half of what a bone stock unmodded 200M G-Shock can do...
Fair point! In the context of water resistance, I agree 💯
G-Shocks and Casio's generally have an EXCESSIVE water resistance rating that most of us would ever breach.
I will say that there's one added benefit to this mod that may make it appealing to some - and that is the improved visibility of the display. 👌
Thanks for weighing in, Squire! 🙏
Stupid talk! I need this!! In my Summer Holiday i will swim in the Pool 😂
@@NoxmilesDe just saying you can swim in the pool without the mod, and any of the other G Shock watches typically have 200m resistance.
I just like to mod stuff
@@030nordseite agreed, it adds another layer of enjoyment 😁👌
Hello Goat reviews , I was wondering can I use this silicone oil as a refill for my lubricating foam for watches? the ones inside the foam were liquid clear type silicone oil not the white opaque color ones.
G’day SO20! 👋
Great question! It’s something I considered doing if my lubricant-joints foam ever felt like it was running low.
I’ve never taken a closer look at the oil type in the sponge, but I believe it is labeled as “GREASE” rather than oil? 🧽
So I imagine it would have a slightly different consistency. A grease would be much thicker than an oil, right? That being said, at the end of the day topping it up with oil may achieve the same effect. 🤔 I’d be willing to give it a try when needed, as the replacement sponges aren’t very expensive! 😁
Hi. Do you think it possible to fit w218 module in w217? 👌
That’s a great question, Roadgent! 🙏
I’ve found that generally, models with a single digit apart in model number, can exchange modules - such as F-91 and F-94.
But the w217 and w218 are a bit different in shape. If I get a W218, I will be sure to test this for you! (Though it might be messy, since my W217 is now filled with oil 😁)
👍
Thank you 🙏
I love your display picture by the way! 👀
What a nice Mecha TVA mod kit! Well done. 👌
Is this really that easy to do? You make it look quite simple…
Hey Ink! 👋 It can seem simple on paper, but it takes a bit of time and can get quite messy. Also as you saw, it can be easy to stuff up the reassembly 😁 So personally, I wouldn't consider it simple 😅
Please try a snap back hydro mod if you can.
I am very intrigued by this, Mr.DippsChad! Would you please elaborate on what this means specifically? I'm keen for another Hydro Mod so might be able to give it a try!
What I mean is how some watches got a screw down back,some has screw down plate with screws and some you have to snap the back shut. If you know what I mean.
Ah, I understand @Mr.DippsChad 👌
Are you familiar with any Casio watch models with a “snap back”?
Most of my collection is the screw down plate, with one watch (MDV-106) having the other type of screw down case
You are right Casio don’t make snap backs on there modern watches but I did try it on a cheap watch it still some slight leak some where.
@@Mr.DippsChadInteresting. Oh man, that sounds messy! Hope you found a solution for it. Thanks for sharing! 🙏
😂😂😂no way I would ever do this
It’s a trade off of money and time for a very marginal benefit - it’s not for everyone.
Having spent a bit more time with this watch, I’m glad I did it! Though next time, I plan to do more than one hydro mod at once so it’s more worthwhile.
Cheers for weighing in, Frank! 🙏
🥜
Good on ya, Dazzy! 😉🥜
В манометрах всегда оставляют пузырек воздуха - для компенсации теплового расширения жидкости. При перепаде температуры ваши часы могут разорваться 😂
Спасибо за предупреждение, Семен. Я учел этот фактор, поскольку один из наших знающих членов сообщества посоветовал мне оставить пузырек на канале Discord! Как вы понимаете, мне не хотелось покидать Пузырь по косметическим причинам. Так что я пока посмотрю, как эти часы будут работать без пузырька 🤞 По вашему мнению, если бы я оставил пузырь в ЗАДНЕЙ половине часов, за модулем, это предотвратило бы тепловое расширение, а также предотвратило бы пузырь показывает в передней линзе? 🤔
@@goatreviews Можете нагреть или охладить часы. Будет эксперимент.
@@user-ws6qd1mo8q Хорошая идея! Есть только один способ узнать это. Пока что он без проблем пережил несколько горячих душей 😁
@@goatreviews У меня дома погода от минус 30, до плюс 30 градусов. Это большой перепад.
@@user-ws6qd1mo8q Ого, какое огромное колебание! 🤯 Хотелось бы узнать, справится ли масло с этим 🤔
Yo hubiera dejado la burbuja …. Quedaría más …… hecho a mano 😅
Jajaja, buen punto Jaime! 😂 La Burbuja habría añadido un encanto único🙏
Я свий Ролекс залив маслом,перестав працювати.
Oh no! 😟 I’m sorry to hear this.
Rolex tend to be very expensive. Would you care to elaborate on what happened? I wonder if it can be restored! 🙏
🥜🐿️
Why is that squirrel eating a peanut?! How ludicrous. 😜
Well spotted, SlowDIIV! 😁👌
This is a dumb mod lol.
Haha, yeah it's hard to argue with that 🤣
It's really messy... But it does have some practical uses though 👌
Cheers Jock! 🙏
🥜
What on earth does a PEANUT have to do with anything?! 😝 How utterly ridiculous.
Well done finding it, MrDrag 😁🙏
🥜🥜🥜🥜
Well done!! 🙌 You found the secret message 😁 How observant of you!
Yeah buddy i watch my stuff with subtitled
Also good job on your attemp 🥳👌
🥜
Well done! 👏 The peanut HAS BEEN SPOTTED! 👀
🥜
Well done, Laennec! 🙌🔥 You’re very observant 👀👌
🥜
Woah, how observant of you Jareth! 🎉👏 I should have expected nothing less from an Owl 🦉👀
🥜
A peanut? What on earth?… 🤔🥜
Good job, Speed! 😉👌
🥜
A peanut?! 🥜 What does that have to do with anything?! 😜 Well done Marciocumpian 👌
🥜
👑👌
🥜
What's with the PEANUT EMOJI?! I have no idea what you're on about 😉
Well done Александра Попенко 👌
🥜🥜🥜🥜🥜
Nice pickup! You are very observant to have stumbled across the hidden Peanut! 🥜👀 Well done, All Simple! 🙌
🥜
🏆👌
🥜🥜🥜🥜
Well spotted, Keigo! 😁👌
You’re an observant one 👀🕵️♂️