You did a fine job...the only thing I would add is to position the spacer first...with the 'toilet bolt indentations' and your 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock marks. Then, all the holes would have lined up on yellow extender and it would have been easier to secure the stainless steel screws. Great job Brandon and thanks for sharing your video of just how easy it is to install a Set-Rite Kit. Tom Elliott - VP Set-Rite Products
This is a great product. I have tiled quite a few bathrooms and this is one of the best systems out there to raise the flange back to the proper height. A few comments worry about gas leakage and the black gasket gives you the gas seal as you press the yellow extender through the black gasket. The inside diameter of the yellow extender is 2 1/2 inches. Many toilets only have a 2” diameter exit hole so the flange extender will not cause clogs. Good video.
Thank you for simplifying a process that had me completely confused before I watched your video. Toilet now has a new flange extension successfully installed!
Thanks for posting this. I have the same issue after installing a new tile floor. I ordered one of these and am expecting it shortly. I briefly considered the quick and dirty "double wax ring" solution. Glad I Googled around before making that mistake.
Thanks Alan. This was my first time working on a toilet. I spent a little time looking at diagrams online to make sure I understood how everything should work and line up. From there is was pretty straight forward. I'm sure I saved myself a good amount of money doing it myself.
It has been a while since I did it, so I don't recall exactly. I think mine were stripped out since the wood had gotten wet from leaking prior to the fix. Speaking of, this has worked great and I haven't had any issues with the toilet leaking since doing this repair, so it has lasted over 7 years now.
This was on the second floor of my house, so I was just screwing into the wood floor. I would use concrete screws if going into he subfloor though for the extra support.
Perhaps a little ABS glue on the bottom of the yellow part to firmly connect the new extender to the existing down pipe might have been a good idea. Just saying. The first time you have a blockage in the pipe requiring a plunger, you can be sure that there will be leaking. You might not see it but the subfloor will be wet under the tile.
Does anyone know where those stainless steel self tapping screws are sold? Can't find them at HD and hate to buy another entire kit just to get the screws.
I'm about to do this too,, as I live in a condo building. I have to raise the iron caste flange about 1 inch to accommodate new tile. I was advised not to pre drill new holes into the iron cast flange as this metal is very brittle and can crack. I'll need to use tapcon screws to tie the set rite extender into the concrete floor (through the holes already in the iron cast flange)
the hole in the extender is a bit small. I think I need a solution that doesn't introduce so much restriction as it seems to have caused my toilet to jam up.
Diameter of the wax ring is irrelevant, it's larger since it has to seal around the horn of the toilet. If you measure the actual outlet it's anywhere from 2-2.5" depending on the model.
If I can't find self-tapping stainless steel wood screws couldn't a person pre-drill holes thru the pvc flange first and use non self-tapping stainless screws?
I would think that could work. As long as your have a secure flange when you're done, then you should be good. Its been a while since I purchased the Set-Rite a while back, but I believe it came with all the hardware I used.
Maybe a little but I haven’t had any issues with clogs and it doesn’t leak like the double stacked wax rings the previous home owner installed. Been solid since I installed this video and looked good in December when I put in a new toilet.
I haven't had any problems since doing this, but I'm not sure if it would cause issues or not. Maybe depends on how much toilet paper you are sending down.
Hell yes it causes issues. You are reducing flow. Never put anything on the inside diameter. Only the outside. I used a flange like this & i had to hold the flush handle for an entire 3 seconds. After I spent 12 hours removing the original cast iron toilet flange, used a cast iron replacement that attaches to the outside, I simply touch the flush handle and it flushes. You don't have to hold it for 3 seconds.
I had to use the set-time extender on my new toto drake toilet and I thought the same thing. So I had check to see the diameter of the toilet base and put the set-rite extender right at the hole of the base of the toilet and the hole of the toilet is about the same size (actually slightly smaller) than the set-rite size. So you should be good. This new 20223 toto drake toilet has probably the best flush then my other toto drakes( I have a 2020 and 2012 versions).
@@kendalgee5808 your was ring horn is a smaller diameter the reduces the ID of the sewer pipe it is sitting on, if your poop and paper can make it through trap on your toilet it will make it through here
I'm not sure if a wax ring is the right type of rind to use with a cast iron bowl, but I would think it would work fine. You might also look at the rubber seal options also available. As for cutting the bolts, I don't see any issue doing this as long as they are long enough to secure everything once installed. Good luck!
I don't see why you would have to remove the old screws unless you were lining the set-rite screws up to old holes. I did have all the old screws taken out of mine and used a few of the original holes.
I believe I did use a wax ring on this one. I have also used the rubber and foam style rings on a different toilet and had good luck with it so far. No mess, and when one of my flange mount bolts broke, I was able to lift the toilet up without needing to replace the wax ring.
My waste hole is similar size to the yellow extension flange that should go into it. Do I need to sand the waste pipe? Your fits in so easily. I think mine is 3 inch waste pipe.
my toilet flange has a 2.5" sleeve. Will the sleeve on the yellow extender fit inside the flange? What do I do if it won't. The drain pipe is 3" and encased in concrete.
I have a concrete sub floor...concrete slab. What type of fastener should I use in this case as I have concrete as the material I need to fasten to? Thanks.
George Ford hasn't been a problem. There have been no odors or drafts noticed and this was done a while ago. May happen a little I guess, but this is better then the water spilling out into my floorboards and soaking the ceiling downstairs like I had from the setup the previous owners did.
don't you just hate when people do stuff like that just to save 30 min of extra work and $30 plastics? if something is supposed to last for decades why won't someone just do it right and once and for all? you should contact the previous owner and ask who did the toilet work, invite them to BBQ, then punch them in the damn face.
I have 2 issues with your installation: (1) Pretty sure you're not supposed to have metal nuts screwed down onto your closet bolts directly against the plastic flange itself. Every toilet I ever worked on had only a thin plastic securing washer pushed down onto the bolts and against flange to hold them straight up until you position toilet down on top of them. If you got away with it and it didn't interfere with anything, well, more power to ya I guess. (2) Holy crap!.. Can't believe you powered all 6 of those screws through a cast iron flange without predrilling pilot holes with a 3/16" bit, you know, like it says to do in the instructions. You the man, Airmo.
My pvc toilet flange is above the concrete slab about half inch. Those screws go through the whole thing but do I need to drill them into the concrete?
I'm not a licensed plumber or contractor, so I'm not sure. I would think as long as they are secure, you would be good. You don't want the toilet moving or rocking allowing for a seal to break.
You did a fine job...the only thing I would add is to position the spacer first...with the 'toilet bolt indentations' and your 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock marks. Then, all the holes would have lined up on yellow extender and it would have been easier to secure the stainless steel screws. Great job Brandon and thanks for sharing your video of just how easy it is to install a Set-Rite Kit.
Tom Elliott - VP Set-Rite Products
This is a great product. I have tiled quite a few bathrooms and this is one of the best systems out there to raise the flange back to the proper height. A few comments worry about gas leakage and the black gasket gives you the gas seal as you press the yellow extender through the black gasket. The inside diameter of the yellow extender is 2 1/2 inches.
Many toilets only have a 2” diameter exit hole so the flange extender will not cause clogs. Good video.
Thanks a ton for the video. I was looking at having to replace my toilet flange that broke off on one side. Looks like this job just got easier.
Thank you for simplifying a process that had me completely confused before I watched your video. Toilet now has a new flange extension successfully installed!
Happy to hear the video was helpful. I made it on a whim and it seemed to have been very popular. Glad I could help. :)
Thanks for posting this. I have the same issue after installing a new tile floor. I ordered one of these and am expecting it shortly. I briefly considered the quick and dirty "double wax ring" solution. Glad I Googled around before making that mistake.
Thanks! This video (in color) beats the heck out of the b&w printed directions on the box!
Excellent video! One of the most articulately explaned videos i've seen
Nice - good vid. Any issues since install?
Thank you so much. Your floor is exactly like mine.
You did a great job. You made it look easy.
Thanks Alan. This was my first time working on a toilet. I spent a little time looking at diagrams online to make sure I understood how everything should work and line up. From there is was pretty straight forward. I'm sure I saved myself a good amount of money doing it myself.
Brandon Mawhorter ....You did save a big chunk...!!! Those 'extra' wax rings get expensive when coupled with $135.00 service call...;-)
Do you need the metal flange underneath or can you just take it off an just use the set right flange?
+erik3423 I'm not sure if you need to leave the metal flange installed. I did to make the job easier. Haven't had any issues since I did the video.
Did you remove the screws from the old metal flange
It has been a while since I did it, so I don't recall exactly. I think mine were stripped out since the wood had gotten wet from leaking prior to the fix. Speaking of, this has worked great and I haven't had any issues with the toilet leaking since doing this repair, so it has lasted over 7 years now.
Great video and great job explaining. Oh , when can I come over and drop a deuce in dat thing? I wanna take the browns to the super bowl 😄
This worked perfectly for me. Thanks for the video!
Why toilet didn't flush smoothly ?
Dont know you, but I love you. Thanks for the video
Happy to help! Love you too...
Will this fit inside a 3 inch pipe? I can't find a flange with a long enough extension to reach down inside a damaged pipe.
Good Job on the Video, Installed worked put perfectly, Thanks
Why do toilet flanges have to be installed on top of finished floors?
Was this installed on a concrete subfloor floor? The instructions mention pre-drilling and the use of concrete screws. Did you not need to do that?
This was on the second floor of my house, so I was just screwing into the wood floor. I would use concrete screws if going into he subfloor though for the extra support.
I have concrete under do I need different screws ?
I'm not sure, but I would think you would want some masonry screws to be safe
Perhaps a little ABS glue on the bottom of the yellow part to firmly connect the new extender to the existing down pipe might have been a good idea. Just saying.
The first time you have a blockage in the pipe requiring a plunger, you can be sure that there will be leaking. You might not see it but the subfloor will be wet under the tile.
That assumes 1) the pipe below is plastic and 2) the OD of the yellow downspout is close to the ID of the pipe below.
Thanks for the help I was wondering if the Fit rite was the right thing to use. I am going out to get one know and give it a try. Thanks again.
You're very welcome. Glad I could help.
Does anyone know where those stainless steel self tapping screws are sold? Can't find them at HD and hate to buy another entire kit just to get the screws.
My toilet is on concrete subflooring, will I need to pre drill do you think?
I'm about to do this too,, as I live in a condo building. I have to raise the iron caste flange about 1 inch to accommodate new tile. I was advised not to pre drill new holes into the iron cast flange as this metal is very brittle and can crack. I'll need to use tapcon screws to tie the set rite extender into the concrete floor (through the holes already in the iron cast flange)
Yes with a hammer drill (on hammer drill mode) and masonry bits. And then use tapcon screws
the hole in the extender is a bit small. I think I need a solution that doesn't introduce so much restriction as it seems to have caused my toilet to jam up.
That's an amazing drain restrictor. Why would they make it so small?
Whatatay T I think the angle makes it look worse the it is. I haven’t had any issue with clogs since installing it.
Wouldn't make any difference given the horn on the toilet drain is smaller then the one on the flange, would it???
@@houmus649 Anyone who has ever installed a toilet knows that isn't true. All one has to do is look at the opening of a wax gasket to know that.
Diameter of the wax ring is irrelevant, it's larger since it has to seal around the horn of the toilet. If you measure the actual outlet it's anywhere from 2-2.5" depending on the model.
@@houmus649 Wrong again. I'm talking inside diameter of the wax rig. This restrictor is a lot smaller than 2 inches.
Thanks much, very helpful!
Mine sits on concrete above the floor thickness of the flange and it does NOT work... won't level at all..
If I can't find self-tapping stainless steel wood screws couldn't a person pre-drill holes thru the pvc flange first and use non self-tapping stainless screws?
I would think that could work. As long as your have a secure flange when you're done, then you should be good. Its been a while since I purchased the Set-Rite a while back, but I believe it came with all the hardware I used.
Doesn't that yellow guy narrow the chute?
Maybe a little but I haven’t had any issues with clogs and it doesn’t leak like the double stacked wax rings the previous home owner installed. Been solid since I installed this video and looked good in December when I put in a new toilet.
Does the extender cause blockage problems on 3 inch pipes since its reduces the diameter?
I haven't had any problems since doing this, but I'm not sure if it would cause issues or not. Maybe depends on how much toilet paper you are sending down.
Hell yes it causes issues. You are reducing flow. Never put anything on the inside diameter. Only the outside. I used a flange like this & i had to hold the flush handle for an entire 3 seconds. After I spent 12 hours removing the original cast iron toilet flange, used a cast iron replacement that attaches to the outside, I simply touch the flush handle and it flushes. You don't have to hold it for 3 seconds.
I had to use the set-time extender on my new toto drake toilet and I thought the same thing. So I had check to see the diameter of the toilet base and put the set-rite extender right at the hole of the base of the toilet and the hole of the toilet is about the same size (actually slightly smaller) than the set-rite size. So you should be good. This new 20223 toto drake toilet has probably the best flush then my other toto drakes( I have a 2020 and 2012 versions).
@@kendalgee5808 your was ring horn is a smaller diameter the reduces the ID of the sewer pipe it is sitting on, if your poop and paper can make it through trap on your toilet it will make it through here
Ok I've googled just about everything I could and can't find nothing on this kit and concrete :/
The DodgeFather It says on the box, buy tapcon and screw them in the concrete.
The one thing I'd do is ball some wax in between the existing flange and extension instead of the gasket
Did he say to add an additional wax ring on top of old flange IF it is cast iron? Also, does anyone cut bolts shorter before installing?
I'm not sure if a wax ring is the right type of rind to use with a cast iron bowl, but I would think it would work fine. You might also look at the rubber seal options also available. As for cutting the bolts, I don't see any issue doing this as long as they are long enough to secure everything once installed. Good luck!
Hole ends up being quite small. Anyone see a potential issue with that?
Had one for about a year no problems
I’ve realized it’s important to learn how to lay tile do home repair yourself because a lot of people you will hire will half ass there job.
Do I need to remove the screws from the old flange for the new set-rite screws ?
I don't see why you would have to remove the old screws unless you were lining the set-rite screws up to old holes. I did have all the old screws taken out of mine and used a few of the original holes.
Can you use wax ring with horn with extension kit
I believe I did use a wax ring on this one. I have also used the rubber and foam style rings on a different toilet and had good luck with it so far. No mess, and when one of my flange mount bolts broke, I was able to lift the toilet up without needing to replace the wax ring.
My popcorn ceiling is also stained now :(
Thanks for the video!
Try KILZ brand
My waste hole is similar size to the yellow extension flange that should go into it. Do I need to sand the waste pipe? Your fits in so easily. I think mine is 3 inch waste pipe.
NC Vman I’m not sure, might be risky to sand the pipe down. My home was built 2002, so might use different size pipping. Is it just shy of fitting?
My home built in 2007. Yea just shy but i'll have to push it in firmly once sanded.
my toilet flange has a 2.5" sleeve. Will the sleeve on the yellow extender fit inside the flange? What do I do if it won't. The drain pipe is 3" and encased in concrete.
Hey DCMike. I'm not sure if it will fit or not. You may want to reach out to the manufacture of the Set-Rite.
Best of luck!
I have a concrete sub floor...concrete slab. What type of fastener should I use in this case as I have concrete as the material I need to fasten to? Thanks.
Sorry, I'm not sure what you should use to secure it to concrete. I'm sure one of the guys at Home Deport or Lowes could help out.
Tapcon screws go into concrete - but you need to pilot hole first with masonry bit
All mostly right no grouting leaks too subfloor when fall’s
I hope mine will work
Nice video!
very helpful. thanks!
TY!!
what if you don't want to use a wax ring, and instead use the fluid master?
it would probably work fine.
Really helpfull thanks
You did not add an O-ring around the flange bottom and gasses will be escaping into your bathroom!!!
How do you fix that?
The gas will came out under the floor
George Ford hasn't been a problem. There have been no odors or drafts noticed and this was done a while ago. May happen a little I guess, but this is better then the water spilling out into my floorboards and soaking the ceiling downstairs like I had from the setup the previous owners did.
No it won't.
That hole looks way too small, no amount of discussion can contradict that fact.
Seven years later and I haven’t had to plunge the toilet for a clog, so seems like it’s working out ok.
don't you just hate when people do stuff like that just to save 30 min of extra work and $30 plastics? if something is supposed to last for decades why won't someone just do it right and once and for all? you should contact the previous owner and ask who did the toilet work, invite them to BBQ, then punch them in the damn face.
The tile installer is not a plumber. If you want someone to do a plumbing job, get a plumber.
I have 2 issues with your installation: (1) Pretty sure you're not supposed to have metal nuts screwed down onto your closet bolts directly against the plastic flange itself. Every toilet I ever worked on had only a thin plastic securing washer pushed down onto the bolts and against flange to hold them straight up until you position toilet down on top of them. If you got away with it and it didn't interfere with anything, well, more power to ya I guess.
(2) Holy crap!.. Can't believe you powered all 6 of those screws through a cast iron flange without predrilling pilot holes with a 3/16" bit, you know, like it says to do in the instructions. You the man, Airmo.
You need to open your eyes, holes are in the flange, do you really thing those screws would go through cast iron !
My pvc toilet flange is above the concrete slab about half inch. Those screws go through the whole thing but do I need to drill them into the concrete?
I'm not a licensed plumber or contractor, so I'm not sure. I would think as long as they are secure, you would be good. You don't want the toilet moving or rocking allowing for a seal to break.