Dude... looking great. I went out shopping for my angle aluminum today. I recall on another of your videos some guy mentioned getting it at steel/aluminum supply places. Man, was that good advice. Lowes wants $37 for an 8' section of 1.5"x1.5" 1/8" stuff. What you use I think. I googled aluminum supply houses and found "metal supermarkets", there's a couple around Atlanta. They sell it by the inch, and it's a dollar per cut. I asked how much for an 8' section and she told me $28, but said it was cheaper the more I bought. So I asked how much fifteen 8 footers would cost. Price went down to around $13 per 8' piece !!! What? A third the price of Lowe's? Get out. They don't have it sitting there, their pieces are like 20 feet long so you have to place an order then swing by and pick it up. I sure hope you didn't buy all yours from Lowe's or Home Depot. Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, you'll know next time if you didn't already.
"Metal Supermarkets". There are two here. "Metal Supermarkets Marietta" (near me) and "Metal Supermakets Altanta" near Norcross. www.metalsupermarkets.com/atlanta/ Open to the public, you can go in but it's more a warehouse than having precut stuff like Lowes does. They list what they carry online, but not prices, because the price gets cheaper the more you buy. I was surprised at how much it dropped the more you buy: from $28 for one 8 footer, to $13.63(each) if I bought 15 of them. You just can't walk in and then walk out with it. Gotta tell them what you want and come back for it as some guy has to cut it. If you tell them early enough in the day they can probably have it for you by end of day. Not open on weekends, close by 5 so you gotta go during the day. I'm going to place my order Monday morning and pick it up that afternoon, want to start my framing soon. Wish I could have told you earlier, but I only got the idea after reading that comment. I *think* you can probably get wood cheaper than Lowes, if you go to a lumberyard where all they do is wood (same as this place they only do metal and lots of it). I like Lowes, but their prices can be beat on some things. Looking forward to your next video.
Hi there why not glue a thin strip of wood to the under side of the hatch that sits low, you can then plane or sand the strips to an exact depth to suit the levels of the floor. If the wood is kept to the same size as the under flap of the carpet then it won't be noticeable when opened. Great project. We don't have that style of boat over hear in Ireland but they look like great fun.
I have a question. Two really. 1) So you have your support structure built, and you have a place where you know you want a hatch (door). Then you cut this big piece of plywood to fit a large area. How do you go about measuring exactly where to cut the hole in the plywood for that hatch? Seems like it would be REALLY easy to mess that up, and you've ruined a big piece of plywood. I want to do it right the first time. 2) How do you cut the hatch? I realize with a jig saw, but I assume you drill a hole to get it started? I actually would think you would need a hole at each corner. So, are you not using the piece you cut out as your door? Do the big holes (big enough to fit jigsaw blade into) mean that you can't use that piece for your door? Looking good man. I'm hoping to start my build this week.
1)Haha yeah I did a lot of measuring. I basically designated a starting point in each compartment. In the middle area, it was the hole for the seat mount (I got the hole made in the ply wood by laying the wood on top of it and then standing on it, it made an impression into the wood that i traced and cut with the jigsaw). I measured the distance from the outside of the mount, to the inside of the hatch on the frame, and then i went from there making sure to measure out the inside of the hatch frame. Once i had triple checked my measurements and had the hatch hole sketched on the ply wood, i used the 1" square tubing and traced a larger hatch outside that in order for it to have a place to lay on the frame. I didn't ruin the ply wood, I am very pleased with my measurements and where the hatches ended up. The cut job was butchered a little bit, but once the carpet goes on it shouldn't be noticeable. For the hatch on the outside compartment, I used the upper right corner as my starting point, and made measurements from there. Obviously i only had to do this for one hatch on each side, because for the others i was able to get inside the compartment and trace the hatch from the inside. 2) I didn't do a good job showing this in the video, mainly for time purposes, but yes i drilled holes in each corner( on the cut line), then another hole as close as possible IN THE DIRECTION you want to cut, and used the drill bit to connect the holes, and that made it big enough to fit the jigsaw in. the key was to use a smaller blade on the jigsaw, and a drill bit that was the same width as the blade, nothing bigger. you want just enough room to get the blade in, and if you do all that on your cut line, its not going to matter because it would just get cut anyways. I am going to be able to use those cut outs as my hatch doors. I wouldn't consider them "perfect", but the carpet is going to clean all that up in the end. Hopefully thats understandable, Good luck on your build man, make sure to send pics!
Two trolling motor questions for you: 1) I would have sworn you had a video that showed how you made a mount of some type for your trolling motor? Don't see one now unless it was just part of a different video 2) I"m about to pull the trigger on my trolling motor. I have no experience with one. Pretty sure I'll get a Minn Kota Terrova, I want variable speed and I like the iPilot feature... can steer with a remote and has an "anchor" feature. My choice is the 80 lb thrust or the 112 lb thrust. I know 112 lb thrust sounds like overkill, but when you're on a big lake with nothing but trolling motors... don't want to take all day to get where I'm going. I'll have at least one on the back also if not 2 on the back. Thoughts?
Crap, I knew I had seen you talk about that mount, thought it was a dedicated video. Once you have a bunch of videos up, going back through looking for something (unless it's obvious by the title) is tough. lol The 112 lb thrust is only $200 more, through Walmart. You have to be careful, some of the ones listed on their web site is older models. You can lookup that model # on Minn Kota and see exactly what it should come with (the model # is specific to thrust, shaft length, and other features). The 80 lb thrust is going for $1500 and the 112 is $1700 (over $2000 on Minn Kota's site). Yes, a lot of money, but on my current transom motor it has 5 speeds instead of variable speed. The lowest speed is still faster than I want sometimes which moves me up to the more expensive motors. The Fortrex is nice, but I really want iPilot which has a little remote. You could sit in the back of the boat and steer if you wanted, but more importantly has an "anchor" button which uses GPS to hold you in position. Not as solidly as a physical anchor, but should be close enough. Other features as well. I don't want worrying about $500 make me not have got something that I think down the road will be a better buy. I think I'm going to go ahead and get the 112 lb thrust UNLESS you've heard of someone going that big and it being a problem?
first things first you have the big picture in your head and it is very hard to find people out their that give a shit about the quality of work they do. alot of respect to you. I wouldn't worry to much about the hatch being a little out on the main deck. you will make that up in the glue on the carpet. and if any thing you might want to knock a little off the hatch itself. not only will that straighten the hatch up but it will give you a little room for the thickness of your carpet. the last thing you want is your hatch to rub when closing after the fact. measure 2 cut once it will save you alot of time. I like the videos keep it up thanks.
I really appreciate you saying that. I do plan to keep this boat for a long time, and I would rather take the time and do it now rather than later down the road after its complete. Thanks for the tip man!
Looking good man. Keep up the good work. Watching your videos makes me wish I had more time to work on my Jon boat videos. To avoid seeing screw heads on top of your fresh carpeted deck you could always use some wood screws. Just carpet your deck and set it down where you want it on the boat. Next drill holes in the aluminum frame and then use the shortest wood screws you can get away with to come up through the bottom of the deck. Then you can take a grinder and a file to grind the screw tip off the top of the carpet flat so you don't step on pointy screws. Just chop the majority of it off with the grinder and then work it down with the file so you don't burn up your carpet and it'll look fine. That's how my 14ft jon boat is put together. Also you can use things like your depth finder and trolling motor screws to hold the decking down.
I found a much easier way to do it and that is what tomorrows video is about. The problem i had with the bolts and nut, and the problem i would have if i did it your way, is that there are some spots that i would not be able to get to from the bottom to attach the deck. That is a good idea though, never thought about coming from the bottom up
What thicness of wood do u recommend for decks. Im redoing my bass tracker deck up front. Also do u just use basic plywood from home depot or do you recommend marine plywood
To be honest man i'm not really the one to ask haha. This boat is going to be electric only. Your boat should have a recommendation for motor size on it, as far as what the transom can handle. If i had to give you an opinion though, I would look for a 5 or 6 hp. Some of the 9.9 are pretty big..
Haha a lot! I haven't been keeping track, but aluminum wasn't cheap, the livewell was over $100, the garage mat for the flooring was around $100, I don't even remember how much the foam was, and the wood is around $30 a sheet, only because i went with the sanded because I feel like the oil based enamel used for the water treatment covers the wood better and doesn't leave gaps for water to potentially get in, plus the little things like rivets, Locktight spray, plasti dip i used on the oar mount, silicone, 5200, livewell pumps, CPVC; it all adds up. The thing to remember though is I've been working on this boat for over a year now, so i haven't been spending a lot at once.
Unfortunately when you have steel and aluminum together You make a battery and the aluminum corrodes add ions from water and this happens faster. That's why you find aluminum pitting and white crap around screws. Even stainless is a bad idea you need aluminum bolts which are expensive.
This video is great help my question is where did you get all the aluminum framing. I need that to do my front area to convert from open bow with seats to storage and seat and batteries
Not now, it's cheaper to use aluminum and it's for ever,, unless you coat wood with resin it won't last,, have repaired many boats with Marine plywood rotten.and carpet will keep wood from drying out and rot even faster
Hey man great vid found this on Instagram and I had to check it out , you have a talent that can make you a lot of money stick with it great job, you got a thumbs up from me for sure
New subscriber . You do excellent work and explain it well . I like it that you acknowledge useful suggestions and comments respectfully which is not always a common trait these days . Keep making these great vids and I'll keep checking back !
Why would you not use treated plywood and what about Seaboard its indestructible and carpet can be glued to it . It is twice as expensive as plywood buy will out last everything.
Hey man where you from and maybe if close enough to me in Alabama you could come help me with my decking on the back of my boat just haven't found a good stable way yet to mount it maybe you can teach me something by the way my name is Bobby Smith
I'm in Opp Alabama on the other side of Dothan Alabama if you might know where that is. My question is what would be a good way to brace the deck on the back of my uhh 14x48 jon boat
Hugh fan here love the videos. I have a 14x48 jon boat has a front casting deck on it just wanting to know what would be a good brace system for the back deck thinking of putting one ion the back
FIREANT FISHING I live on the other side of Dothan Alabama in a small town called Opp got a 58 acre lake here and the guys I talk to say shellcrackers are biting like crazy and the bass are in post spawn mode
using wood with aluminum boat .. never ever ... wood rots and you have to do it all over again .. and it adds a lot of weight .. keep it wood free if at all possible .. I took out all my wood and replaced it with aluminum sheets and 3M Reinforced Polyurethane Foam board.. this boat will never rot and a fraction of the weight of wood .. most of all wet wood..the only way I would ever consider wood is if it's totally sealed with fiberglass mat and epoxy resin .. epoxy resin is the ONLY way for wood to stay dry. And if anyone out there is thinking of pressure treated wood .. DONT .. it causes chemical reaction with aluminum and will eat the aluminum .. another consideration if . the screw materials .. use the wrong screws and it will have the same effect .. do the research before you use the wrong screw type.. is your life worth slapping stuff together with whatever ?
I'm telling you right now, get some metal tapping screws and fasten that wood to the aluminum!!! Every 5" cause it's eventually gonna get wet.. wood expands and shrinks but eventually shrink.. so that wood we'll buckle and when you go to stand on it, it's gonna squeak and float of that framing. Very annoying!!! I even painted my plywood with waterproofing paint. This is (eastcoast38) from IG ..... I wouldn't worry about screw and nuts with lock washers, just get those self tapping screws and go to town with them. Trust me!!
I was wondering if it would squeak actually, i guess i just kinda thought the carpet would help with that. ill give it a try, i just don't want to see a bunch of screws on top of my carpet (i have to take the decks off to waterproof and carpet, then reinstall)
Ply alright if it's marine ply and if you mount it right and keep it in the dry it will last for years my nabor has a 1979 Terry one owner original floor and transom in it solid as the day it was bought it's been garage kept and yes he uses it a lot
Use nylox nuts on the bolts or they will come loose also when the plywood starts to buckle replace it with marine grade plywood a couple bucks more but well worth it. Otherwise good job.
When I set my Flats aluminum boat up I used aluminum on the Bow and Stern decks and untreated plywood on the Floor. As you mentioned Treated Plywood will eat the aluminum up because of the Copper used in the treatment process, ie dissimilar metals!! Carpet glue was easy to use on both materials. Before matching I let both surfaces cure so the bonding process was quick. Used a Paint Roller to smooth the carpet out. On my wood floor I used SS screws to attach the Plywood to the Ribs but I used rubber hose washers to separate the wood from the deck almost like Floating the Deck. No squeaks and the plywood has an air space to dry when it gets wet. Your build has been labor intensive but the weight savings of aluminum vs. wood should be significant and with the deck should you ever decide to replace the wood/carpet is a piece of Cake!! Impressive!! Great job in the attention to detail!!
It's easier I thought carpeting the aluminum deck in the rear rather than the wood deck in the front and floor, I did make a video of you wanna see it"basstracker 98" is the vid
Great project...love the videos. Regarding your stainless bolts, did you isolate them at all from the aluminum (plastic washers?) and/or do you have any concerns about galvanic corrosion? Probably not a big deal, especially if you are only using the boat in fresh water. Just curious if you considered it in your planning?
thank you! and no i didn't isolate them. before installing them i did do some research. corrosion is more than likely going to happen, but from what i read it will corrode slower than anything else i could have used.
Lay the plywood just like the cardboard for marking it on the hull then use cardboard or tape measure for inside cuts
Never mind. My bad. Love the vids
Why did you decide on the non pressure treated?
Pressure treated wood corrodes aluminum
Dude... looking great. I went out shopping for my angle aluminum today. I recall on another of your videos some guy mentioned getting it at steel/aluminum supply places. Man, was that good advice. Lowes wants $37 for an 8' section of 1.5"x1.5" 1/8" stuff. What you use I think. I googled aluminum supply houses and found "metal supermarkets", there's a couple around Atlanta. They sell it by the inch, and it's a dollar per cut. I asked how much for an 8' section and she told me $28, but said it was cheaper the more I bought. So I asked how much fifteen 8 footers would cost. Price went down to around $13 per 8' piece !!! What? A third the price of Lowe's? Get out. They don't have it sitting there, their pieces are like 20 feet long so you have to place an order then swing by and pick it up. I sure hope you didn't buy all yours from Lowe's or Home Depot. Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, you'll know next time if you didn't already.
Ron's Kayaking and Fishing yeah I did, dang that's a good deal man. What's the name of the place?
"Metal Supermarkets". There are two here. "Metal Supermarkets Marietta" (near me) and "Metal Supermakets Altanta" near Norcross. www.metalsupermarkets.com/atlanta/
Open to the public, you can go in but it's more a warehouse than having precut stuff like Lowes does. They list what they carry online, but not prices, because the price gets cheaper the more you buy. I was surprised at how much it dropped the more you buy: from $28 for one 8 footer, to $13.63(each) if I bought 15 of them.
You just can't walk in and then walk out with it. Gotta tell them what you want and come back for it as some guy has to cut it. If you tell them early enough in the day they can probably have it for you by end of day. Not open on weekends, close by 5 so you gotta go during the day. I'm going to place my order Monday morning and pick it up that afternoon, want to start my framing soon. Wish I could have told you earlier, but I only got the idea after reading that comment. I *think* you can probably get wood cheaper than Lowes, if you go to a lumberyard where all they do is wood (same as this place they only do metal and lots of it). I like Lowes, but their prices can be beat on some things. Looking forward to your next video.
Ron's Kayaking and Fishing Awesome man! I will have to check that place out!
How do you add on so much wood and not have it sink?
buoyancy
Which vid is next? I want to see how/if you made lips on the deck under the hatch to keep the hatch waterproof. Thanks man enjoy your vids!
Hi there why not glue a thin strip of wood to the under side of the hatch that sits low, you can then plane or sand the strips to an exact depth to suit the levels of the floor. If the wood is kept to the same size as the under flap of the carpet then it won't be noticeable when opened. Great project. We don't have that style of boat over hear in Ireland but they look like great fun.
I have a question. Two really.
1) So you have your support structure built, and you have a place where you know you want a hatch (door). Then you cut this big piece of plywood to fit a large area. How do you go about measuring exactly where to cut the hole in the plywood for that hatch? Seems like it would be REALLY easy to mess that up, and you've ruined a big piece of plywood. I want to do it right the first time.
2) How do you cut the hatch? I realize with a jig saw, but I assume you drill a hole to get it started? I actually would think you would need a hole at each corner. So, are you not using the piece you cut out as your door? Do the big holes (big enough to fit jigsaw blade into) mean that you can't use that piece for your door?
Looking good man. I'm hoping to start my build this week.
1)Haha yeah I did a lot of measuring. I basically designated a starting point in each compartment. In the middle area, it was the hole for the seat mount (I got the hole made in the ply wood by laying the wood on top of it and then standing on it, it made an impression into the wood that i traced and cut with the jigsaw). I measured the distance from the outside of the mount, to the inside of the hatch on the frame, and then i went from there making sure to measure out the inside of the hatch frame. Once i had triple checked my measurements and had the hatch hole sketched on the ply wood, i used the 1" square tubing and traced a larger hatch outside that in order for it to have a place to lay on the frame. I didn't ruin the ply wood, I am very pleased with my measurements and where the hatches ended up. The cut job was butchered a little bit, but once the carpet goes on it shouldn't be noticeable.
For the hatch on the outside compartment, I used the upper right corner as my starting point, and made measurements from there. Obviously i only had to do this for one hatch on each side, because for the others i was able to get inside the compartment and trace the hatch from the inside.
2) I didn't do a good job showing this in the video, mainly for time purposes, but yes i drilled holes in each corner( on the cut line), then another hole as close as possible IN THE DIRECTION you want to cut, and used the drill bit to connect the holes, and that made it big enough to fit the jigsaw in. the key was to use a smaller blade on the jigsaw, and a drill bit that was the same width as the blade, nothing bigger. you want just enough room to get the blade in, and if you do all that on your cut line, its not going to matter because it would just get cut anyways. I am going to be able to use those cut outs as my hatch doors. I wouldn't consider them "perfect", but the carpet is going to clean all that up in the end.
Hopefully thats understandable, Good luck on your build man, make sure to send pics!
Thanks man. Very helpful.
you are doing a good job ...its your boat and you got good sense.
Two trolling motor questions for you:
1) I would have sworn you had a video that showed how you made a mount of some type for your trolling motor? Don't see one now unless it was just part of a different video
2) I"m about to pull the trigger on my trolling motor. I have no experience with one. Pretty sure I'll get a Minn Kota Terrova, I want variable speed and I like the iPilot feature... can steer with a remote and has an "anchor" feature. My choice is the 80 lb thrust or the 112 lb thrust. I know 112 lb thrust sounds like overkill, but when you're on a big lake with nothing but trolling motors... don't want to take all day to get where I'm going. I'll have at least one on the back also if not 2 on the back. Thoughts?
Ron's Kayaking and Fishing I went over it briefly in my Q and A video. How much more is the 112?
Crap, I knew I had seen you talk about that mount, thought it was a dedicated video. Once you have a bunch of videos up, going back through looking for something (unless it's obvious by the title) is tough. lol
The 112 lb thrust is only $200 more, through Walmart. You have to be careful, some of the ones listed on their web site is older models. You can lookup that model # on Minn Kota and see exactly what it should come with (the model # is specific to thrust, shaft length, and other features). The 80 lb thrust is going for $1500 and the 112 is $1700 (over $2000 on Minn Kota's site). Yes, a lot of money, but on my current transom motor it has 5 speeds instead of variable speed. The lowest speed is still faster than I want sometimes which moves me up to the more expensive motors. The Fortrex is nice, but I really want iPilot which has a little remote. You could sit in the back of the boat and steer if you wanted, but more importantly has an "anchor" button which uses GPS to hold you in position. Not as solidly as a physical anchor, but should be close enough. Other features as well. I don't want worrying about $500 make me not have got something that I think down the road will be a better buy. I think I'm going to go ahead and get the 112 lb thrust UNLESS you've heard of someone going that big and it being a problem?
Are you worried about aluminum and the steel going to corrode?
Carpet over aluminum use aircraft spray glue ( wear gloves) it’s sticky ass hell
I must have missed it in the description, but what thickness was the plywood
first things first you have the big picture in your head and it is very hard to find people out their that give a shit about the quality of work they do. alot of respect to you. I wouldn't worry to much about the hatch being a little out on the main deck. you will make that up in the glue on the carpet. and if any thing you might want to knock a little off the hatch itself. not only will that straighten the hatch up but it will give you a little room for the thickness of your carpet. the last thing you want is your hatch to rub when closing after the fact. measure 2 cut once it will save you alot of time. I like the videos keep it up thanks.
I really appreciate you saying that. I do plan to keep this boat for a long time, and I would rather take the time and do it now rather than later down the road after its complete. Thanks for the tip man!
Looking good man. Keep up the good work. Watching your videos makes me wish I had more time to work on my Jon boat videos.
To avoid seeing screw heads on top of your fresh carpeted deck you could always use some wood screws. Just carpet your deck and set it down where you want it on the boat. Next drill holes in the aluminum frame and then use the shortest wood screws you can get away with to come up through the bottom of the deck. Then you can take a grinder and a file to grind the screw tip off the top of the carpet flat so you don't step on pointy screws. Just chop the majority of it off with the grinder and then work it down with the file so you don't burn up your carpet and it'll look fine. That's how my 14ft jon boat is put together. Also you can use things like your depth finder and trolling motor screws to hold the decking down.
I found a much easier way to do it and that is what tomorrows video is about. The problem i had with the bolts and nut, and the problem i would have if i did it your way, is that there are some spots that i would not be able to get to from the bottom to attach the deck. That is a good idea though, never thought about coming from the bottom up
Good deal. I look forward to seeing the new video.
What thicness of wood do u recommend for decks. Im redoing my bass tracker deck up front. Also do u just use basic plywood from home depot or do you recommend marine plywood
1/2" has worked for me, but I also had a lot of framing
Very few people can afford or use aluminum and for most of us weekend fisherman plywood will work fine. Great job man
Why did you use un treated plywood instead of treated plywood ?
What motor should I get for my 10ft Jon boat 5hp? Or even 9.9?
TexasOutdoors TV you should be fine with a 5... 9.9 might be too much for a 10 ft
To be honest man i'm not really the one to ask haha. This boat is going to be electric only. Your boat should have a recommendation for motor size on it, as far as what the transom can handle. If i had to give you an opinion though, I would look for a 5 or 6 hp. Some of the 9.9 are pretty big..
Sorry if you already mentioned this in one of your videos but how much do you think the whole conversion will cost boat and motors included
Haha a lot! I haven't been keeping track, but aluminum wasn't cheap, the livewell was over $100, the garage mat for the flooring was around $100, I don't even remember how much the foam was, and the wood is around $30 a sheet, only because i went with the sanded because I feel like the oil based enamel used for the water treatment covers the wood better and doesn't leave gaps for water to potentially get in, plus the little things like rivets, Locktight spray, plasti dip i used on the oar mount, silicone, 5200, livewell pumps, CPVC; it all adds up. The thing to remember though is I've been working on this boat for over a year now, so i haven't been spending a lot at once.
Unfortunately when you have steel and aluminum together You make a battery and the aluminum corrodes add ions from water and this happens faster. That's why you find aluminum pitting and white crap around screws. Even stainless is a bad idea you need aluminum bolts which are expensive.
OR....aluminum rivets which are CHEAP AS FRIG!!
How long is the front deck?
i think 7 feet? not exactly sure
I've seen a lot of pontoon boats with treated plywood decks. Even treated plywood will eventually decay but I haven't seen the aluminum decay.
As always looking great!
Thanks!
This video is great help my question is where did you get all the aluminum framing. I need that to do my front area to convert from open bow with seats to storage and seat and batteries
What's the tool you ended up using to hold those two metals together at 1:10?
What do I use for the frame? And where can I get it?
WELL PRESENTED
Not now, it's cheaper to use aluminum and it's for ever,, unless you coat wood with resin it won't last,, have repaired many boats with Marine plywood rotten.and carpet will keep wood from drying out and rot even faster
nice job, clean and thought out.
thank you!
Its really coming along!
Yeah man its starting to look like a boat haha
I like lots of wood on a boat. Cheaper then marine foam!
Looks great man
Thank you!
I bolted down a small deck with blind nuts or rivet nuts, it saves the reach around. Check them out. I enjoy your videos.
Thanks!
nice video bro. I was listening to it as I'm working on my son's 14' Alumicraft. The music you had going actually put me in the zone lol.
Thats awesome man haha thanks for the support!
is that a electric rivet gun?
Where do you get the aluminum for the framing?
i went to lower or HD, however i don't recommend it unless you need a little bit. way too expensive
Hey man great vid found this on Instagram and I had to check it out , you have a talent that can make you a lot of money stick with it great job, you got a thumbs up from me for sure
Thanks man! I really appreciate it!
Nice build for sure let's see some fishing off that deck
Hopefully soon haha
Great job👍
Great information I'm fixin to do john boat modification will document same and post. Lots of useful tips. Looks like i'm late to the party.
pretty good stuff
Thanks!
Why make a small boat so heavy ? Makes no sense
you da man, can you take me fishing?
haha thanks man
Hey man I’m about to deck my boat today how important is it that I match the overlay the framing so it’s all flush?
What size tires do you have on the chevy?!
295/75r18. been thinking of making a video on it, not sure yet though
FIREANT FISHING I gotta get some for the new high country, I like how they look!
gah man what i would do for one of those trucks haha. i couldn't justify buying the diesel yet though
subbed to you man
FIREANT FISHING I love the diesel man and the high country is just on a crazy level haha
how did you go about making the frame
angled aluminum and rivets, i have videos on them
Good vid dude! Edits are on point too! U earned my sub!
New subscriber . You do excellent work and explain it well . I like it that you acknowledge useful suggestions and comments respectfully which is not always a common trait these days . Keep making these great vids and I'll keep checking back !
Why would you not use treated plywood and what about Seaboard its indestructible and carpet can be glued to it . It is twice as expensive as plywood buy will out last everything.
Hey man where you from and maybe if close enough to me in Alabama you could come help me with my decking on the back of my boat just haven't found a good stable way yet to mount it maybe you can teach me something by the way my name is Bobby Smith
whats up bobby I'm in GA
I'm in Opp Alabama on the other side of Dothan Alabama if you might know where that is. My question is what would be a good way to brace the deck on the back of my uhh 14x48 jon boat
Hugh fan here love the videos. I have a 14x48 jon boat has a front casting deck on it just wanting to know what would be a good brace system for the back deck thinking of putting one ion the back
FIREANT FISHING I live on the other side of Dothan Alabama in a small town called Opp got a 58 acre lake here and the guys I talk to say shellcrackers are biting like crazy and the bass are in post spawn mode
I happen to like wood. So I would have made the whole boat out of plywood, instead of just converting a metal boat. LOL Good idea tho, I like it.
Dale Earnhardt Jr Is building a boat?
yessir haha
nice vid man!!! i subbed!!!
The wood will eventually rot, if you take it out in the rain or when it becomes humid
Yeah I'm expecting it to eventually. The waterproofing will help a lot and when it does finally go i might decide to go with aluminum
used motor oils works wonders against decay
hmm
using wood with aluminum boat .. never ever ... wood rots and you have to do it all over again .. and it adds a lot of weight .. keep it wood free if at all possible .. I took out all my wood and replaced it with aluminum sheets and 3M Reinforced Polyurethane Foam board.. this boat will never rot and a fraction of the weight of wood .. most of all wet wood..the only way I would ever consider wood is if it's totally sealed with fiberglass mat and epoxy resin .. epoxy resin is the ONLY way for wood to stay dry.
And if anyone out there is thinking of pressure treated wood .. DONT .. it causes chemical reaction with aluminum and will eat the aluminum .. another consideration if . the screw materials .. use the wrong screws and it will have the same effect .. do the research before you use the wrong screw type.. is your life worth slapping stuff together with whatever ?
ok Karen
on the doors hatch u going to need room for carpet
Yeah i know, I don't have carpet yet so ill have to figure that out when i get some
@@fireantfishing how much room did you end up leaving for carpet? I'm starting on my jon boat soon and am researching all that I can.
I'm telling you right now, get some metal tapping screws and fasten that wood to the aluminum!!! Every 5" cause it's eventually gonna get wet.. wood expands and shrinks but eventually shrink.. so that wood we'll buckle and when you go to stand on it, it's gonna squeak and float of that framing. Very annoying!!! I even painted my plywood with waterproofing paint. This is (eastcoast38) from IG ..... I wouldn't worry about screw and nuts with lock washers, just get those self tapping screws and go to town with them. Trust me!!
I was wondering if it would squeak actually, i guess i just kinda thought the carpet would help with that. ill give it a try, i just don't want to see a bunch of screws on top of my carpet (i have to take the decks off to waterproof and carpet, then reinstall)
Mega Bass Listen to this guy!!!!
I did haha
Ply alright if it's marine ply and if you mount it right and keep it in the dry it will last for years my nabor has a 1979 Terry one owner original floor and transom in it solid as the day it was bought it's been garage kept and yes he uses it a lot
Oxyrisen I
Brother , amazing job !!! WOW!!! damn you did a good job !!
Use nylox nuts on the bolts or they will come loose also when the plywood starts to buckle replace it with marine grade plywood a couple bucks more but well worth it. Otherwise good job.
Looks great bud!
Thanks man!
When I set my Flats aluminum boat up I used aluminum on the Bow and Stern decks and untreated plywood on the Floor. As you mentioned Treated Plywood will eat the aluminum up because of the Copper used in the treatment process, ie dissimilar metals!! Carpet glue was easy to use on both materials. Before matching I let both surfaces cure so the bonding process was quick. Used a Paint Roller to smooth the carpet out. On my wood floor I used SS screws to attach the Plywood to the Ribs but I used rubber hose washers to separate the wood from the deck almost like Floating the Deck. No squeaks and the plywood has an air space to dry when it gets wet. Your build has been labor intensive but the weight savings of aluminum vs. wood should be significant and with the deck should you ever decide to replace the wood/carpet is a piece of Cake!! Impressive!! Great job in the attention to detail!!
Thanks for the tip!
It's easier I thought carpeting the aluminum deck in the rear rather than the wood deck in the front and floor, I did make a video of you wanna see it"basstracker 98" is the vid
ok cool ill check it out! thanks for sharing!
Great project...love the videos. Regarding your stainless bolts, did you isolate them at all from the aluminum (plastic washers?) and/or do you have any concerns about galvanic corrosion? Probably not a big deal, especially if you are only using the boat in fresh water. Just curious if you considered it in your planning?
thank you! and no i didn't isolate them. before installing them i did do some research. corrosion is more than likely going to happen, but from what i read it will corrode slower than anything else i could have used.
6:29 Glue!!!!
Lol half of the boat is metal