Yes if you have the hoses disconnected you should be able to spend that . You will probably see a lot of hydro oil coming out of the ports but it will spin. If it's not spending more than likely the shaft inside is probably split in half and jammed
So when you showed the broken shaft you was saying to replace the pump. Do you mean replace the wheel motor or replace the hydro pump or both? Can those shaving make it to the hydro pump and damage the pump?
Absolutely depending on the machine that you have. I'm actually doing a job like that right now the Parker wheel motor shaft had broken and the shavings went up into the wheel motor as well. The wheel motor also drains into the tank so you would have to clean the whole tank out and the wheel motor if you have a broken shaft on your unit in your Parker wheel motor. Now it will not affect the other side if you have two hydro gears because the filter should grab any shavings that enter the tank and try to exit but you will need to replace the filter as well.
I have a 99 model exmark turf tracer and recently did a hydro change (dealer mechanic did the job) after I got the mower back the left side sticks when I put it in gear and I have to play with the ecs handles just to get it to drive. In your opinion because I watched both of your videos this one and hydro what needs to be looked at and fixed? Thank you in advance
Can you explain a little bit more what you mean when you say it sticks? When you push the handle forward to go forward are you saying that the handle is staying forward and the machine is not moving? And all that the dealer did was a hydraulic oil change?
@@youtubestar yes the dealer did a hydraulic change as soon as they changed the hydraulic oil when you put it in gear the left side doesn't go forward unless I manually push the ecs handles forward I have to do this every time I squeeze the handles to slow down or turn. Going in reverse I have no problems just in forward. Hope I answered your question better
Ok let me take a look at one of the turf tracers in my shop tomorrow. Been a while since I serviced one of those I just want to see the hydro setup prior to me responding. Give me a day ill circle back to you
@@youtubestar no problem. I tried to see if it was air locked so I raised the mower up opened the reservoir and let the mower in gear to push any air bubbles out I did this for about an hour and when I dropped the mower and tried to drive with it it ran fine but as soon as the oil cold down it went back to having a hard time going into gear again
Did you check the pressure release valve on the hydro motor you are having the issue with? It will be able on the side of it with a hole going through the center of it and this is usually turned to the left to release the hydraulic tension so you can push the mower freely. Make sure that is turned all the way to the right and tight . Also on the motor that is giving you issues did you check where the rod from the handle connects to the hydraulic motor itself there's a square nut which pretty much a joints it to the shaft of the hydraulic motor make sure that is tight and it's actuating the motor to its fullest extent. That little shaft coming out of the side of the motor is connected to the rod which is connected to the handle that's the part I'm talking about.. make sure that is working properly going in both directions and it's not spinning around on the shaft. That shaft is what controls the cradle inside which allows it to pivot and push the Pistons up and down inside the chamber like you saw in my video. It's not extending all the way and pushing the cradle all the way and you won't have the pressure in that direction..
Would a bad wheel motor cause very low power in reverse have good power going foward Also acts like dump valve for towing is on but the dump valves are good and closed
Whoops, I took it apart without marking the lines on the outside of the motor. This means that when I assembled the motor again exactly as I thought it would be, it now spins in the wrong direction.. it's a woodchipper ch180 farmi forest.. I'm not understanding why
where can i find a new shaft my keyway sheared over time, bought at auction and thought i had a weak pump finally it stopped moving lol i have no clue how it went so long before it stopped moving forward, tore down so far i found the hub just spins free from the shaft, its a simplicity consumers edition 2050 not sure the brand of wheel motor are they basically pretty much the same like the pumps it seems on the simplicity site the pumps have a diagram to rebuild the pump but nothing on the wheel motor, anyone provide a link to a store that sells the shaft the brake hub bolts to as im sure the shaft is destroyed from it spinning the key way slot is all but gone and probably need a hub but not paying a 1000.00 dollars for a new wheel motor. Thanks Dave
@@youtubestar i got it fixed wasn't as bad as i thought, once i got the pieces of the broke woodruff key out, i tightened the hub to the shaft and no wobble so went got a new woodruff key and siphoned out the old oil in the reservoir, one thing i cant figure out is how to drain the whole system pumps and wheel motors think im going to do another siphon on the reservoir clean the oil up more still seems to slip the belt on the right side or the wheel motor might be getting weak.
I know this video is a year old I just wanted to know if you are going to make video on removing hub and bearing replacement. I have one I’m working on and there are zero videos on UA-cam. I’ve broke pullers and can’t get mine to budge.
Those Hobbs can be very Tricky to get off indeed . Your average puller Is not going to be strong enough. Harbor freight sells a 3 ton puller. I had to. Use one of those and apply heat to the hub. But be very careful doing this. Those hubs are on a tapered shaft, that's. Why they are so hard to get off. It can pop off and hit you in the face If you're not careful because they are pressed on. Get a small torch the yellow can not the blue can and Heat up the Hub while applying pressure on the puller
Hi,
Good video, how to remove and install the bearing?
If you make a v on the side, rather than a line, it helps to keep them in the same order.
can you share a link where to buy the rebuild kit ?
Can you tell the direction the nylon washer faces on the commutator. Does the beveled edge go toward the inside or outside of the commutator?
If you have removed them before making a line is it just the order or is it also the correct orientation?
Mine is stuck I cannot spin it. It’s as if something expanded. Any thoughts. I have already taken it apart and cleaned it.
Do you think it would be the wheel motor if one side isn’t pulling as fast as the other side?
Sorry I left the model out it’s a Massey Ferguson ZT-29
Massey Ferguson ZT-29
Where do you get replacement parts for thses?
I have the same motor, my actuator charge pump is locked up. Can i get replacement star and pistons?
Using my mower 700 hrs notice oil on inside of tire was outer seal or bearing dealer said 1200 to 1500 for parker wheel motor
I have a bobcat zt228 and one side barely drives what would cause that? It also has a Parker wheel motor
Is there a difference between the left and the right motor
Hello , a wheel drive motor with the hoses disconnected shoukd be able to spin by hand?
Yes if you have the hoses disconnected you should be able to spend that . You will probably see a lot of hydro oil coming out of the ports but it will spin. If it's not spending more than likely the shaft inside is probably split in half and jammed
So when you showed the broken shaft you was saying to replace the pump. Do you mean replace the wheel motor or replace the hydro pump or both? Can those shaving make it to the hydro pump and damage the pump?
Absolutely depending on the machine that you have. I'm actually doing a job like that right now the Parker wheel motor shaft had broken and the shavings went up into the wheel motor as well. The wheel motor also drains into the tank so you would have to clean the whole tank out and the wheel motor if you have a broken shaft on your unit in your Parker wheel motor. Now it will not affect the other side if you have two hydro gears because the filter should grab any shavings that enter the tank and try to exit but you will need to replace the filter as well.
I have a 99 model exmark turf tracer and recently did a hydro change (dealer mechanic did the job) after I got the mower back the left side sticks when I put it in gear and I have to play with the ecs handles just to get it to drive. In your opinion because I watched both of your videos this one and hydro what needs to be looked at and fixed? Thank you in advance
Can you explain a little bit more what you mean when you say it sticks? When you push the handle forward to go forward are you saying that the handle is staying forward and the machine is not moving? And all that the dealer did was a hydraulic oil change?
@@youtubestar yes the dealer did a hydraulic change as soon as they changed the hydraulic oil when you put it in gear the left side doesn't go forward unless I manually push the ecs handles forward I have to do this every time I squeeze the handles to slow down or turn. Going in reverse I have no problems just in forward. Hope I answered your question better
Ok let me take a look at one of the turf tracers in my shop tomorrow. Been a while since I serviced one of those I just want to see the hydro setup prior to me responding. Give me a day ill circle back to you
@@youtubestar no problem. I tried to see if it was air locked so I raised the mower up opened the reservoir and let the mower in gear to push any air bubbles out I did this for about an hour and when I dropped the mower and tried to drive with it it ran fine but as soon as the oil cold down it went back to having a hard time going into gear again
Did you check the pressure release valve on the hydro motor you are having the issue with? It will be able on the side of it with a hole going through the center of it and this is usually turned to the left to release the hydraulic tension so you can push the mower freely. Make sure that is turned all the way to the right and tight . Also on the motor that is giving you issues did you check where the rod from the handle connects to the hydraulic motor itself there's a square nut which pretty much a joints it to the shaft of the hydraulic motor make sure that is tight and it's actuating the motor to its fullest extent. That little shaft coming out of the side of the motor is connected to the rod which is connected to the handle that's the part I'm talking about.. make sure that is working properly going in both directions and it's not spinning around on the shaft. That shaft is what controls the cradle inside which allows it to pivot and push the Pistons up and down inside the chamber like you saw in my video. It's not extending all the way and pushing the cradle all the way and you won't have the pressure in that direction..
Would a bad wheel motor cause very low power in reverse have good power going foward
Also acts like dump valve for towing is on but the dump valves are good and closed
What type of machine do you have?
Toro 3150 greensmower
were do i order seal kit
have you checked jacks small engines yet?
Good stuff.. new subscriber here!
How about no reverse on one side of the mower?
Whoops, I took it apart without marking the lines on the outside of the motor.
This means that when I assembled the motor again exactly as I thought it would be, it now spins in the wrong direction.. it's a woodchipper ch180 farmi forest.. I'm not understanding why
How can I contact you?
👍👍👍👍
where can i find a new shaft my keyway sheared over time, bought at auction and thought i had a weak pump finally it stopped moving lol i have no clue how it went so long before it stopped moving forward, tore down so far i found the hub just spins free from the shaft, its a simplicity consumers edition 2050 not sure the brand of wheel motor are they basically pretty much the same like the pumps it seems on the simplicity site the pumps have a diagram to rebuild the pump but nothing on the wheel motor, anyone provide a link to a store that sells the shaft the brake hub bolts to as im sure the shaft is destroyed from it spinning the key way slot is all but gone and probably need a hub but not paying a 1000.00 dollars for a new wheel motor. Thanks Dave
Do you have a photo of it. I might have one
@@youtubestar i got it fixed wasn't as bad as i thought, once i got the pieces of the broke woodruff key out, i tightened the hub to the shaft and no wobble so went got a new woodruff key and siphoned out the old oil in the reservoir, one thing i cant figure out is how to drain the whole system pumps and wheel motors think im going to do another siphon on the reservoir clean the oil up more still seems to slip the belt on the right side or the wheel motor might be getting weak.
Yeah they are expensive, I think I needed one and it was $900!!!
I know this video is a year old I just wanted to know if you are going to make video on removing hub and bearing replacement. I have one I’m working on and there are zero videos on UA-cam. I’ve broke pullers and can’t get mine to budge.
Those Hobbs can be very Tricky to get off indeed . Your average puller Is not going to be strong enough. Harbor freight sells a 3 ton puller. I had to. Use one of those and apply heat to the hub. But be very careful doing this. Those hubs are on a tapered shaft, that's. Why they are so hard to get off. It can pop off and hit you in the face If you're not careful because they are pressed on. Get a small torch the yellow can not the blue can and Heat up the Hub while applying pressure on the puller
@@youtubestar thanks for your input. will heat hurt any seals or just add heat slowly maybe quench?
What if I didn’t mark the outside of the plates???? Yeah..that’s what I did…
Hy