Thanks for the information... Too bad you are not in the South Dallas area... I have two pipes that have the boots up over the seams. Now I know what should be done once I find a repetable roofer in the Waxahachie Texas area.. Again thanks. And thanks to the other comments that show the success of them mirroring your instructions.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a mountain cabin and the gaskets got torn to shreds by 3-5' of snow for the last 3 winters and bent the ABS vent pipes. It took me all day to replace the vent pipes and gaskets, and the one on the rib I used this exact same technique and it worked perfectly. Such clear instruction I really appreciate it, probably saved me >$1000.
Man! So I had a plumber vent my pipe right next to the rib like you have here in the video. I tried a boot on there but it looks like poop and just isn’t gonna work. Your video is the only in depth one I see on UA-cam explaining in detail how to fix it. Gonna get on this right away. Excellent video, very detailed. I wish the camera would have shown from the top looking down to see where the Z track met the rib. Thanks buddy
Love the detail in this video. Great presentation and it has gone along way to making me feel more comfortable about the metal roofing projects that I have coming up. Answers a lot of questions!
There's still the same problem. From the upper side from the. Rib. He didn't do any good. At least. Got the Booth. To lay down straight. I'm not convinced it's the right way. I would move the PVC pipe to the center of the panel
Guys should be required to move pipes if Necessary to put boots on the flat. The siphon notch on the over lap of screw down metal can even be an issue. This one, even after he re-did it is still so-so, because of the over lap.
Thanks so much! as a temporary stopgap measure, I might just put a squirt of that solar seal right where the boot is crimped over the seam and leaving an air gap. Or a squished up ball of butyl tape like you described. Longer term. I think I might get a small metal brake and try just what you showed.
It was able to be sealed and monitored all the way around before. Now, it is all dependent on the seam(s) of the z bar, which are now out of sight and reach to reseal.
Boy someone really did a crappy job installing those how did they get by with it being left like that really horrible just looking at those .You can tell you really know your stuff Great job you did
[cool rainbow. did you not notice he didn't do anything to seal up where the z metal meets the rib? high estrogen can make it hard to function and see things clearly]
First time I see a pipe boot installed like that, interesting stuff but i don't do metal roofs, can you imagine doing this same repair on a metal roof 2 story high at a 12/12 pitch?
This guy seemed like he was learning himself during the video! The last method of marking out zbar seemed a lot more practical. That would drive me crazy as a home owner seeing those details not line up.
10 years later on my DIY standing seam snaploc 22-squares roof I realize I installed the seam boots wrong. Gonna have to pull them off and do what this video shows...
@@ralph95 Ok so new info! You are RIGHT! I left the boots alone and installed z-strips as “rain diverters” to prevent water running up-under the seam of the snaploc. This is where a small leak WAS occurring. Saved rework boot labor and have 1/2 of the z-seam (most important part which is up-stream of water flow) installed. Great posting on your part!!!
What is that platform your standing on. I have a metal roof on my barn that needs a small repair but I'm concerned I'll slide off. What's the secret to walking on a metal roof safely?
I have not seen this technique before on you tube. If this is the "correct way" to install the vent, why does MFG shows it installed on a rib? (they say form to rib) I had one leaking and the previous install just used too few screws. They also used long ones which was also excessive.
This is an absolute disaster in the making which will without doubt end up causing more of a leak than it attempted to fix for the sake of simple aesthetics. This is only going to last as long as the caulk does and that's it.
Observations 1. Using thin garage metal, 26 or 29 2. Aesthetically pleasing but still has the same weak vulnerable leak spot, the upper side relies on caulk to keep it from leaking.
Id say the end result is worse than what it started at as Snow melting and Freezing(expanding) , snow sliding and moving...Is just going to mess this flashing up over few years
Well... you said "installed incorrectly." Not sure about that. You had to muscle those off, and they wouldn't have leaked for 25 years. Sure yours is nicer. But ugly and works doesnt mean incorrect. Just sayin
Well it’s installed incorrectly when it leaks, which like he said all during the intro was all wet inside the boot. Just because it’s hard to get off doesn’t mean installed correctly. Ugly and leaks is far from correct or professional, just sayin.
Thanks for the information... Too bad you are not in the South Dallas area... I have two pipes that have the boots up over the seams. Now I know what should be done once I find a repetable roofer in the Waxahachie Texas area..
Again thanks. And thanks to the other comments that show the success of them mirroring your instructions.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a mountain cabin and the gaskets got torn to shreds by 3-5' of snow for the last 3 winters and bent the ABS vent pipes. It took me all day to replace the vent pipes and gaskets, and the one on the rib I used this exact same technique and it worked perfectly. Such clear instruction I really appreciate it, probably saved me >$1000.
Awesome demonstration. I had a hard time finding a video or tutorial on trim work like this on a seamless metal roof.
Man! So I had a plumber vent my pipe right next to the rib like you have here in the video. I tried a boot on there but it looks like poop and just isn’t gonna work. Your video is the only in depth one I see on UA-cam explaining in detail how to fix it. Gonna get on this right away. Excellent video, very detailed. I wish the camera would have shown from the top looking down to see where the Z track met the rib. Thanks buddy
Love the detail in this video. Great presentation and it has gone along way to making me feel more comfortable about the metal roofing projects that I have coming up. Answers a lot of questions!
@@lornadesmarais4650 Very proud of you!!! Have NO FEAR!!! Ty.
I liked the details. I had a steel roof installed a few months ago.
I'm going to check my vents and see how well they did the work.
A bar at the ribs with the seam sealer scares me a little bit. You’re clearly a very good carpenter tho man respect
🫡💯
This is a GREAT IDEA! THANK YOU!!
LOOKS PERFECT
Don't forget to seal (Along the edges) of the upper 2 pieces of z bar to the roof & where the upper corner of z bar intersects the rib.
I don't do metal roofs but I enjoyed watching your video!👍
been on roofs over 30 years and never seen this done. nice
the original detail is a leaker. His fix was nice
@@murphysaquatics
I guess I missed it but how does this solve the issue of the water coming in from inside the rib?
There's still the same problem. From the upper side from the. Rib. He didn't do any good. At least. Got the Booth. To lay down straight. I'm not convinced it's the right way. I would move the PVC pipe to the center of the panel
Exactly. Just wasted his time...and ours.
Guys should be required to move pipes if Necessary to put boots on the flat. The siphon notch on the over lap of screw down metal can even be an issue. This one, even after he re-did it is still so-so, because of the over lap.
Thanks so much!
as a temporary stopgap measure, I might just put a squirt of that solar seal right where the boot is crimped over the seam and leaving an air gap. Or a squished up ball of butyl tape like you described.
Longer term. I think I might get a small metal brake and try just what you showed.
Great video. I'm actually gonna run into this problem this week and I love this detail.
It was able to be sealed and monitored all the way around before. Now, it is all dependent on the seam(s) of the z bar, which are now out of sight and reach to reseal.
Boy someone really did a crappy job installing those how did they get by with it being left like that really horrible just looking at those .You can tell you really know your stuff Great job you did
[cool rainbow. did you not notice he didn't do anything to seal up where the z metal meets the rib? high estrogen can make it hard to function and see things clearly]
Nice job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
First time I see a pipe boot installed like that, interesting stuff but i don't do metal roofs, can you imagine doing this same repair on a metal roof 2 story high at a 12/12 pitch?
Good job. You do good work. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the informative video. Is this needed for a low rib metal roof instead of standing seam?
Excellent explanation and detail. many thanks !!
This guy seemed like he was learning himself during the video! The last method of marking out zbar seemed a lot more practical. That would drive me crazy as a home owner seeing those details not line up.
No he definitely seemed like a pro that has done this countless times. Not a wasted movement.
Then spend 20k having plumbers move pipes and inspectors approving it
10 years later on my DIY standing seam snaploc 22-squares roof I realize I installed the seam boots wrong. Gonna have to pull them off and do what this video shows...
Why? if they are not leaking ??
@@ralph95 Ok so new info! You are RIGHT! I left the boots alone and installed z-strips as “rain diverters” to prevent water running up-under the seam of the snaploc. This is where a small leak WAS occurring. Saved rework boot labor and have 1/2 of the z-seam (most important part which is up-stream of water flow) installed. Great posting on your part!!!
What is that platform your standing on. I have a metal roof on my barn that needs a small repair but I'm concerned I'll slide off. What's the secret to walking on a metal roof safely?
Do you need a steeper angle boot?
I have not seen this technique before on you tube. If this is the "correct way" to install the vent, why does MFG shows it installed on a rib? (they say form to rib) I had one leaking and the previous install just used too few screws. They also used long ones which was also excessive.
Fantastic work.
Many thanks!
Solid video man!
Good stuff brother 🙏
nice repair. great tutorial
Glad you enjoyed it!
Never installed a metal roof and never will but that was interesting😄
Clean job👍🏻👍🏻
Are they leaking?
Fantastic info! Thank you so much.
Take time but saving $$ a lot problems👍
Yeh should've left it alone. Very creative though
2:53 he explains the problem, then at 25:05 he makes the same mistake he tried to prevent.
I get your point but minds installed over the metal- V channel and hasn't leaked at all
Mine is heavily siliconed around and under the metal and rubber gasket
This is an absolute disaster in the making which will without doubt end up causing more of a leak than it attempted to fix for the sake of simple aesthetics.
This is only going to last as long as the caulk does and that's it.
i can put the boot on a rib ... you have to caulk the rib from the boot to the ridge ...
y not just remove the old caulking and put on a new boot why do all that?
It won't leak the way it was before it looks weird the way you did if you did not want the rib you culd ask a plumber if you culd move pipes .
Look at it it's pouring out like a geyser hehehehe
Put duct tape on your tools to stop the scratching. 👍
Observations
1. Using thin garage metal, 26 or 29
2. Aesthetically pleasing but still has the same weak vulnerable leak spot, the upper side relies on caulk to keep it from leaking.
pointless observations Anthony
Id say the end result is worse than what it started at as
Snow melting and Freezing(expanding) , snow sliding and moving...Is just going to mess this flashing up over few years
nice
Well... you said "installed incorrectly." Not sure about that. You had to muscle those off, and they wouldn't have leaked for 25 years. Sure yours is nicer. But ugly and works doesnt mean incorrect. Just sayin
Well it’s installed incorrectly when it leaks, which like he said all during the intro was all wet inside the boot. Just because it’s hard to get off doesn’t mean installed correctly. Ugly and leaks is far from correct or professional, just sayin.
Working with metal without gloves. Hmmm OSHA frowns on that.
strongly disagree with the detail . Specially in that climate
So slow, I have to stab myself in the eye, if I had to pay you by the hour
200
What a sideshow nobody's paying a guy all day to do that
It's a demonstration video...
Comment.....Lazy installers.....so imagine what else they did wrong.