HOW TO INSTALL A METAL ROOF BOOT
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- Опубліковано 22 лис 2018
- IN THIS VIDEO I COVER INSTALLING A ROOF BOOT FOR A VENT PIPE IN A METAL ROOF.
The metal I'm using is called "crinkle black"
I purchased all my materials at buckeyemetalroofing.com/
They are a local company. Google "metal roofing supplier" to find one in your area.
The buble-wrap underlayment I used is Rfoil 2500. It can be found here rfoil.com/insulation-product/...
The dektite roof boot can be found here www.ebay.com/i/152760533811?r...
FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY - Розваги
Glad I saw this. I live in Costa Rica and the majority of homes here have no vent pipes. Creates a problem with clogs in the closed system. I could only imagine that they didn’t know how to flash the pipe on corrugated metal roof. The houses that do have a pipe through the roof they use some type of roofing cement that cracks soon after application when the roof heats and expands. Thanks for the awesome video
Wow.. clean as it can be. Great job Mr. HOMES!
Thank you Alan! Thanks for watching!
My contractor should have seen this video, before he tared and feathered the one on my house. Good job.
Thank you!
Nicely done! Talent. Gretch
lovely job
Thanks! Very helpful.
Screwing down the boot is so simple and easy but at the same time it will block the metal panels from expansion and contraction causing warping when the weather is hot.
Nice clean job - I have to do this in the next few days, so this has been really helpful, thanks :)
Thanks Dave! Good luck!
Right on chief best video out there on this very topic. U the man !! Peace out roofer
Thank you!
Excellent.
nice clean job..
Thank you.
You know he is a real man and a pro when he doesn't use gloves.
no that just means cut his hand up especially if it's cold outside
That was good information. As an electrician, I was helping someone and their service was getting a mast pipe that had to go through the soffit overhang portion but was not sure how we could seal up correctly. I all my years, this was the first service with the mast going through a metal roof so I was not sure. Thank you.
Thank you! I should’ve mentioned that they also make a “split” boot for a weatherhead that already has the lines hooked up to it. It will split to go around the pipe since you obviously can’t bring it down over top of the pipe. If you have the boot when you install the pipe, just make sure you install the boot before you put the cap on. Here’s the link to a split boot if you ever need one.> www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/metal-flashing/dektite-reg-gray-metal-roof-vent-pipe-flashing-for-3-4-2-3-4-pipe/rf801g/p-1519198283886.htm
Thank You
Another amazing video, but how is a bathroom vent installed. I can only find square vents and no good installation videos out there.
You can also caulk the boot to the pipe and then use a stainless strap to squeeze the boot to the pipe.
Absolutely good looking out.
Very wise, putting the routine install screws on top of the ridges instead in the valleys, makes it 1,000x less likely to leak since only a direct hit from a raindrop could even have a chance of leaking at a screw head (who would put a screw in the bottom of a valley when its actually better to put it on top as said ALSO the screws on top where the panels overlap hold the "seams" together much much better so wind can't grab the metal as easily; just use 3/4" longer screws than the norm they try to foist on you. Nice video, thanks. ! Q> is there any adhesive that can simple glue down the lower lip of the vent "boot" ; i like less screws in the roof to minimize future leakage.
Thank you! I totally agree with you on the screw location. Been doing it for years with zero issues. I don’t know of any adhesive for the roof boot, although I’m sure the caulking would hold it in place as long as you had something to hold it in place until it cures.
Put a screw in a piece of wood and leave it up 3/4" or so, now put another screw beside it in flush and tell me which one moves most if you grab the head and move it side to side. Metal moves, when it does, the screw that's not all the way down has 1000x more chance of leaking and working it's way loose over time than the flush screw. Also, when you go in the ridge and overtighten just a bit it dimples the metal leaving an unsightly finish.
Could you tell me the best way to fit regular corrugated metal roofing panel around a power pole? I know how to measure the hole, but not sure how to get the hole around the pole. The only two things I can come up with is cut the hole for the pole and then cut a horizontal line over to the hole where I could offset the metal enough to slide it over to the pole, or cut the metal panel in half and cut a half circle in each and fit the lower one under the upper one before putting the boot on. Thanks for your help!
Whenever I have a power pole in the roof I always start the roof so that 2 sheets lap together right at the pole. Whether that means starting with a 1/2 , 1/3 piece. Hope that makes sense.
@@MT_Homes Makes sense. I had my metal precut and it had to go on with the directions he gave me for the layout.. I just ended up over lapping an upper sheet over a lower spare piece that I had. Thanks for the reply!
Is that rubber boot work with gas furnish exhauust pipe. Thanks
It’s a double wall hot water heater vent pipe. On a 90 degree day the metal roof will get hotter than the pipe ever will. They do make a special boot for pipes that get really hot, like a wood stove chimney. They are orange in color so I don’t use them unless I feel I have to.
Many thanks, what sort of caulking did you use?
It’s called Solar Seal, I believe. It what the metal company sells.
@@MT_Homes Many thanks, is it for roofing in general or specific to being near flues?
It’s for roofing in general.
Question: I need to replace my boot. Will I be okay to unscrew it and use the existing sheet of metal roof? I'm concerned if I remove the existing boot and replace it that it will leak due to existing holes from the previous boot.
If you fill each of the old screw holes with caulking before installing the new boot you should be fine as long as the new boot covers the old screw holes. Especially if you put a heavy bead of caulking underneath the boot then another bead around the perimeter after it’s screwed down. Another option would be to buy a bigger roof boot.
@@MT_Homes thanks for the advice! I guess I was too close to the project to even think of just getting a bigger boot. I appreciate the help!
6:15 I thought he was going to slide down the slope.
😂😂 That’s funny you caught that. I didn’t even notice. Thanks for watching!
hey bud they make long bill offset snips. save you from getting hands cut
Yea, I’ve never tried them though. Felt I might not have quite the control I have with the straight nose. I could be wrong. Probably outta try a pair.
@@MT_Homes try them out I feel I can cut better cause I don't have to worry about slicing my hand. you made an excellent video
Thank you!
What was the brand of boot?
Not sure, to be honest. That’s the boot my metal supplier carries. I’d say most metal suppliers would have them. I know Menards carries a boot that’s very similar. Not sure if it’s the same brand though.
M.T. HOMES - Thanks!
Asi no se imstala una paipa se cortar el panel y se pone la paipa y se pone otro panel ensima de la paipa
Your carrying an impact drill at all times
Just buy a 1/4 in shank step bit drill a 3/4 in whole in the metal and use your metal shears instead of the chisel
I used dish soap keeps you finger clean
Good idea, providing it doesn’t affect the caulking in any way.
Woodglut is nice for that.
Pretty sure you’re not supposed to put a boot over a seam.
Pretty sure I didn’t put a boot over a seam. You’re talking about a rib, and yes this boot is designed to contour over top of a rib.
thank you very helpful!