Your comment about ego and building everything has never rang so true in my eyes. It took me several jobs falling behind to realize my limitations. Now I order my doors and drawers and my overhead became more; however, things have been flowing more smoothly when you aren’t always racing against the clock on every job.
I'm a cabinet maker as well and I make my own doors most of the time. Sometimes I use a local shop to build the doors for me. For inset applications, I order the doors the same size as the opening and I trim them down to my desired size/angles to fit my cabinet. Usually, I use 1/16" to 3/32" gap. I think 1/8" is a bit too much (in my opinion).
Well, you have inspired me to put in the extra effort. I am fitting some inset cabinet doors now. I usually go overlap, but I wanted that inset look for this project. Good to see that even the pros have to put in the work and there is no real shortcut. I will get to work scribing and sanding. Good thing there are only four doors on this project!
Love this channel. And how proud of your work you are, i was going to comment, with all this knowledge you should give people classes of cabinet making. But then I thought to myself,with this channel your are teaching me and others, thanks brother I just finish my first insets doors ever and this door fitting process was killing me, I couldn’t find too mucho info, but know you put really clear for my and lots to tips, thanks and greetings from Santa Cruz bolivia 🇧🇴
I just made some face frame cabinets with flush sides like you did. But I used the first hinge you say. I didn’t realize I could have used the third hinge and not have to mess with measuring for the inset. Wish you posted this a month ago. Lol
Great video with details!!! What is the number for the 9mm hinge plate you are referencing in your video? I'm trying to install hinges for full inset doors and I like how you showed the catalog with numbers. I only need a total of 8 complete hinges for my application.
Hi, do you shim out the cabinet side hinge mount to be flush with the face frame for an inset door? The part where you showed the boring of the holes glossed over the fitment of the inside hinge. Can you talk a bit more about your jigs? Thx!
I'm not sure how I found your channel or video. I don't build cabinets but do some woodworking. I've kicked around in my head about cabinet building, but i'm not sure I like the production side of it. It's a great video, I learned something. I will be building a couple of boxes for our house so it may well come in handy. Good luck to you and your business.
Your face frame was flush with the edge of the cabinet and extended to the outside of it. Mine has the frame coming to the inner side of the cabinet. Is there something for that?
Appreciate it ! Well I do think this is a great thing to have for this purpose but you could get the same result many other ways including a hand plane , table saw , track saw , orbital sander , belt sander . Just have to be careful and meticulous about it .
Excellent work. Really enjoying your videos. One comment on the Blum hinges. To avoid the plywood build up you can use Blum 29mm Cruciform plate 173H9130.18. It works perfectly with inset face frames.
Does your face frame reveal need to be a specific minimum amount for these to work? It looks like it only attaches to the cabinet with a single screw, did that feel strong enough for you? Sorry for the questions, it’s hard to get info on these.
I use a scribe line ; then adjust on the table saw with an offset block close , if I hv some high spots I use my Lee block plane & sand smooth ! The belt sander is great however I am the inbetween carpenter? Finish guy so I do a lot of trim work except stairs ! I sub those out to guys who just do stairs ! And I do. A lot of built ins, counter top extension with more cabinetry! I leave the full kitchen or whole house jobs to the guys like you who run a shop! By the way it’s a very honorable profession that few guys can pull off! Why? Hard work, with lots of thinking ! Great videos one of my favorite channels I watch while getting ready to roll!
Wow, amazing work, love it. Why do you use partial overlay, half cranked hinges rather than inset, full cranked hinges? Also, you flush mount the 9 mm clip part so it is mounted even with the face frame and back 1-½”. That looks so much easer to do than screwing the clip part to the face frame. I struggled with mounting the clip part to the face frame and your system seems so much easier. And why Inserta rather than screws? Is there a jig to drill the inserta holes. I used 71B365180 and 175H503021180 on my latest cabinet build and the 9mm plate screwed to the face frame was far too fiddly to work with. Looking for a better way to go on inset doors with face frame. What is the part number of the 9mm clip plate you use for inset doors?
Appreciate it ! I’ll get back to you to you on part number. As for why, This is just the combination I find to work best and easiest . Inserta is fast. I’m always looking for what’s the fastest as long as it doesn’t compromise build quality. The holes are drilled by my Blum mini press but You can drill the side pilot holes with a hand drill but not sure if there’s a jig for that. It seems like there’s got to be .
You use half crank (meaning it's offset from side panel about 3/8) plus a 9mm plate. The 9mm plate plus the 9mm (from the half crank) kicks the door 18mm inset as compared to full overlay. In other words, your using half crank hinges to get a half overlay, then pairing it with a 9mm high plate, then installing the plate back farther than you would on full overlay (you install the plate back by the thickness of your door) so it's inset and within the frame opening..
Was wondering the same. Half overlay combined with 9mm plate I believe achieve the same thing but then why just don’t use the full cranked that was designed for inset and then just use the regular 0 mm plate?
No I only build face frame cabinets . However I can make the finish result look frameless but I do prefer there to be a frame under the doors for structural rigidity. Part of sticking to a set standard way of building . Many slight variations of the same process
20 years ago I had the same thought. I bought an edge bander for making drawer boxes and then switched to frameless. I did the “same “ job frame and frameless, results frameless was faster and less costly. All things were similar except I didn’t have to make the frames(labor and material cost) Inset job no choice but frames but on full overlay, frameless!
Your compairsion to In-n-Out's posted menu, but you can order off their secret menu for burger options: Animal style, four by four, three by three, protein style, flying dutchman, grilled cheese.
Blum USA / Blum GmbH is named after its founder, an Austrian gentleman named Julius Blum. His name is pronounced exactly like the English word, "Bloom." It does not rhyme with "Plum"
The two gentlemen in the video are Martin and Phillip Blum, grandsons of Julius Blum. You don't have to speak German to hear how the Blum name is actually pronounced.
To each their own. There very well could be better hinges and yes these aren’t cheap . I have not tested them all. I only know I’ve used these for decades and they are strong , well made and always hold up so I just stick with what’s been working. I’m a creature of habit !
@@cabinetwise I used them for a long time, when the pandemic hit and they wouldn't sell them to anyone but OEM manufacturers, I switched to salice because they were available, and I found that they had better adjustment and they are $2 A hinge less than Blum. I am not saying Blum are bad at all, I like the salice better, and when you use the compact hinges which I don't use often they have 2 mounting screws in the face frame which makes it less likely to strip out the holes when you remove them, If you have not tried the salice f70 glides you should they're by far the best on the market
Aha Interesting yes I can tell you speak from experience. I never liked the single screw in the Blum compact . I agree . And the lockdown time was sooo weird to begin with… supply chain backups and especially when it came to allocations . They literally wouldn’t let you buy over a certain amount and some not at all. Fortunately we had enough order history to have some allocations but even then I was coming up short because we weren’t allocated enough . Glad that’s over !
@@cabinetwise yes that was. big pain, I didn't have an allocation issue, I had a good sales rep who took care of me, when stuff came in he would call me and I would buy a unit or two, hardware wise cause I was ok, I use grass slides, and when the whole thing started someone told me to stock up so I did and I had hundreds of slides in stock, and salice hinges was never an issue getting. I landed more than a few jobs because I had the ability to get it all done and other shops couldn't get materials. I was a nightmare having all the material laying around and all the money out to pay for it until I used it.
![Cabinet Door Sizing [*Ad] [video 549]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tyeGTD9aF4E/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cabinet Door Sizing [*Ad] [video 549]](/img/tr.png)
Wonderful to all the things! And yes, those tolerances are as tight as I've seen.
Just bumped into your channel…. AWESOME video…..! Just subscribed and now searching for more of your work. Great job!!
These long form full instruction videos with "errors" we all love! Thank you! Would love to work in a shop like this to learn for free!
Thanks ! Glad you appreciate it
Very nice work! Especially appreciate the explanation on the hinges 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great job! very informative, Love how you keep it simple!
Your comment about ego and building everything has never rang so true in my eyes. It took me several jobs falling behind to realize my limitations. Now I order my doors and drawers and my overhead became more; however, things have been flowing more smoothly when you aren’t always racing against the clock on every job.
Yes exactly! And it definitely becomes a stressful race in those scenarios. Time is not our friend as the jobs pile up.
I'm a cabinet maker as well and I make my own doors most of the time. Sometimes I use a local shop to build the doors for me. For inset applications, I order the doors the same size as the opening and I trim them down to my desired size/angles to fit my cabinet. Usually, I use 1/16" to 3/32" gap. I think 1/8" is a bit too much (in my opinion).
Yes agreed , that sounds similar to what I do. Keep up the good work!
@@cabinetwise thanks, buddy! You too!
I'd love to talk to you if you agree.
Well, you have inspired me to put in the extra effort. I am fitting some inset cabinet doors now. I usually go overlap, but I wanted that inset look for this project. Good to see that even the pros have to put in the work and there is no real shortcut. I will get to work scribing and sanding. Good thing there are only four doors on this project!
Great video now I know I'm not the only one who talks themselves through projects thanks!
Thanks ! This is the way
Love this channel. And how proud of your work you are, i was going to comment, with all this knowledge you should give people classes of cabinet making. But then I thought to myself,with this channel your are teaching me and others, thanks brother I just finish my first insets doors ever and this door fitting process was killing me, I couldn’t find too mucho info, but know you put really clear for my and lots to tips, thanks and greetings from Santa Cruz bolivia 🇧🇴
Thanks so much for this feedback . That’s very encouraging to hear . I’m glad it could be helpful as that is very much the goal of this channel.
Perfect timing and great video. I was just starting hinge selection for an armoire I built and your video made selection easy!
Great to hear!
Very informative!! And entertaining. Beautiful workmanship!!
Thank you ! Glad you enjoyed it
All of the above, informative helpful and entertaining! I always put things on backwards just to confirm as well😂
Good! Yes this way you know for sure
Excellent work. I love your philosophy and your work ethic. Keep grinding.
Thank you
Well, done, nice detail, and you’re alignment if your hinges well done
Thank you, Glad you appreciate it !
I just made some face frame cabinets with flush sides like you did. But I used the first hinge you say. I didn’t realize I could have used the third hinge and not have to mess with measuring for the inset. Wish you posted this a month ago. Lol
Well better late than never ! Haha . Thanks for watching
Great video with details!!! What is the number for the 9mm hinge plate you are referencing in your video? I'm trying to install hinges for full inset doors and I like how you showed the catalog with numbers. I only need a total of 8 complete hinges for my application.
Hi, do you shim out the cabinet side hinge mount to be flush with the face frame for an inset door? The part where you showed the boring of the holes glossed over the fitment of the inside hinge. Can you talk a bit more about your jigs? Thx!
I'm not sure how I found your channel or video. I don't build cabinets but do some woodworking. I've kicked around in my head about cabinet building, but i'm not sure I like the production side of it.
It's a great video, I learned something. I will be building a couple of boxes for our house so it may well come in handy. Good luck to you and your business.
Thanks and welcome ! Glad you found this useful
Your face frame was flush with the edge of the cabinet and extended to the outside of it. Mine has the frame coming to the inner side of the cabinet. Is there something for that?
Amen!! Everyone should be as competitive 😂😂
A healthy competitive spirit makes everyone better !
What do you use for a face frame with inset doors?
Awesome vid! So if you didnt have that belt sander, whats another way you could trim your doors/drawers down that would give an even result?
Appreciate it !
Well I do think this is a great thing to have for this purpose but you could get the same result many other ways including a hand plane , table saw , track saw , orbital sander , belt sander . Just have to be careful and meticulous about it .
Excellent work. Really enjoying your videos. One comment on the Blum hinges. To avoid the plywood build up you can use Blum 29mm Cruciform plate 173H9130.18. It works perfectly with inset face frames.
Does your face frame reveal need to be a specific minimum amount for these to work? It looks like it only attaches to the cabinet with a single screw, did that feel strong enough for you? Sorry for the questions, it’s hard to get info on these.
Yes this is true good point. And thanks !
Thanks Great information.
I use a scribe line ; then adjust on the table saw with an offset block close , if I hv some high spots I use my Lee block plane & sand smooth ! The belt sander is great however I am the inbetween carpenter? Finish guy so I do a lot of trim work except stairs ! I sub those out to guys who just do stairs ! And I do. A lot of built ins, counter top extension with more cabinetry! I leave the full kitchen or whole house jobs to the guys like you who run a shop!
By the way it’s a very honorable profession that few guys can pull off! Why? Hard work, with lots of thinking !
Great videos one of my favorite channels I watch while getting ready to roll!
Thanks so much !! Yes perfectly said . Sounds like you do it the right way to get a tight result. Keep up the good work !
@@cabinetwise could we please hv Molder jump in on some of these builds? Or just Jump? Thk u ! Eat/Sleep/Repeat !
@@zephyr1408 yes I didn’t even realize it til after I posted but he wasn’t in this vid at all. Next one, which is coming soon!! I’m in the zone now
A similar style video of your overlay process would be awesome. Thx
Ok noted !
Wow, amazing work, love it. Why do you use partial overlay, half cranked hinges rather than inset, full cranked hinges? Also, you flush mount the 9 mm clip part so it is mounted even with the face frame and back 1-½”. That looks so much easer to do than screwing the clip part to the face frame. I struggled with mounting the clip part to the face frame and your system seems so much easier. And why Inserta rather than screws? Is there a jig to drill the inserta holes. I used 71B365180 and 175H503021180 on my latest cabinet build and the 9mm plate screwed to the face frame was far too fiddly to work with. Looking for a better way to go on inset doors with face frame. What is the part number of the 9mm clip plate you use for inset doors?
Appreciate it ! I’ll get back to you to you on part number. As for why, This is just the combination I find to work best and easiest . Inserta is fast. I’m always looking for what’s the fastest as long as it doesn’t compromise build quality.
The holes are drilled by my Blum mini press but You can drill the side pilot holes with a hand drill but not sure if there’s a jig for that. It seems like there’s got to be .
Perfecto!!👌👌👌
Thanks !
Whats the average prices for those style doors, im building cabinet boxes now. And need to get allot of them
Depends on the material , panel thickness etc. maybe $15 / sq ft ?
So not sure if I missed it, but what is the reason for using half cranked instead of full cranked?
Wondering this too
You use half crank (meaning it's offset from side panel about 3/8) plus a 9mm plate. The 9mm plate plus the 9mm (from the half crank) kicks the door 18mm inset as compared to full overlay. In other words, your using half crank hinges to get a half overlay, then pairing it with a 9mm high plate, then installing the plate back farther than you would on full overlay (you install the plate back by the thickness of your door) so it's inset and within the frame opening..
Was wondering the same. Half overlay combined with 9mm plate I believe achieve the same thing but then why just don’t use the full cranked that was designed for inset and then just use the regular 0 mm plate?
Great video sir! who do you order your drawers from?
Appreciate it ! When I order them it’s from the same supplier I get my doors from . Cal door . They also make dovetail drawers .
do you make frameless cabinets? Blum 32 process?
No I only build face frame cabinets . However I can make the finish result look frameless but I do prefer there to be a frame under the doors for structural rigidity. Part of sticking to a set standard way of building . Many slight variations of the same process
20 years ago I had the same thought. I bought an edge bander for making drawer boxes and then switched to frameless. I did the “same “ job frame and frameless, results frameless was faster and less costly. All things were similar except I didn’t have to make the frames(labor and material cost)
Inset job no choice but frames but on full overlay, frameless!
Your compairsion to In-n-Out's posted menu, but you can order off their secret menu for burger options: Animal style, four by four, three by three, protein style, flying dutchman, grilled cheese.
Over size allows for adjustment
Exactly
Blum USA / Blum GmbH is named after its founder, an Austrian gentleman named Julius Blum. His name is pronounced exactly like the English word, "Bloom." It does not rhyme with "Plum"
Die dritte Generation übernimmt Blum:
ua-cam.com/video/CpZFbfSX5cc/v-deo.html
The two gentlemen in the video are Martin and Phillip Blum, grandsons of Julius Blum. You don't have to speak German to hear how the Blum name is actually pronounced.
not a Blum fan, they are overpriced and there are better hinges out there for less
To each their own. There very well could be better hinges and yes these aren’t cheap . I have not tested them all. I only know I’ve used these for decades and they are strong , well made and always hold up so I just stick with what’s been working. I’m a creature of habit !
@@cabinetwise I used them for a long time, when the pandemic hit and they wouldn't sell them to anyone but OEM manufacturers, I switched to salice because they were available, and I found that they had better adjustment and they are $2 A hinge less than Blum. I am not saying Blum are bad at all, I like the salice better, and when you use the compact hinges which I don't use often they have 2 mounting screws in the face frame which makes it less likely to strip out the holes when you remove them, If you have not tried the salice f70 glides you should they're by far the best on the market
Aha Interesting yes I can tell you speak from experience. I never liked the single screw in the Blum compact . I agree . And the lockdown time was sooo weird to begin with… supply chain backups and especially when it came to allocations . They literally wouldn’t let you buy over a certain amount and some not at all. Fortunately we had enough order history to have some allocations but even then I was coming up short because we weren’t allocated enough . Glad that’s over !
@@cabinetwise yes that was. big pain, I didn't have an allocation issue, I had a good sales rep who took care of me, when stuff came in he would call me and I would buy a unit or two, hardware wise cause I was ok, I use grass slides, and when the whole thing started someone told me to stock up so I did and I had hundreds of slides in stock, and salice hinges was never an issue getting. I landed more than a few jobs because I had the ability to get it all done and other shops couldn't get materials. I was a nightmare having all the material laying around and all the money out to pay for it until I used it.