Our RV Air Conditioner is Done For. Here's Why
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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So are you going to get DUO ZONE unit?? You can mount it Front or back. I would go with up front for the ease of platform, just make sure you add hard rubber bumpers under the mounts. also make sure you get the DUO ZONE unit and that way you can ADD on a second FAN/unit later.
They make 4 zone units too.. LOL But mounting on the back is going to take some custom supports. but will be better in my eye for WHERE you spend time! ! ! and wiring. But still WHERE is the Hot part of your RV and where do you spend time....
Can you mount it on the "A" Tongue and just RUN long lines of Power and coolant lines to the back?
I have a mini-split in my shop that is equal in size to your trailer (about 10 x 24).
#1 issue - can NOT CONTROL at the unit. only remote. If Dog eats remote your screwed - only goes to one default setting SO ORDER 2 at time of order. Be assured a replacement will not be available in three years. My dog destroyed tv remote. Much easier to replace. #2 issue - BUY efficiency. Mine is SEER rated 23- the highest at time of purchase and Performance of 9.3 out of 10.5. #3 Issue - In Ohio Temps in Winter can go sub zero. My heat pump WAS stated and has PROVEN To actually go to minus 20 F. #4 issue - noise IT is no Issue, Recommend above
bed and send air down stream with "articulating" motorized motion of vents. Yes you want to have that feature. #5 issue - Way to much copper supply line. Order proper size, fittings and length needed. #6 - issue -they come pre-charged with Freon. Open gate valve on installation. #7 issue - place remote farthest from the unit. Set temperature and forget it.Hope this helps.
Having dealt with mini-splits in the past, the DIY kits have long refrigerant lines that need to be coiled (excess). They also are tough to troubleshoot if they don't work as expected. Mounting the unit in your bedroom on the side wall, you would have to create a place for the refrigerant lines to run to the outside unit. The cost of the retrofitting items is not included in the cheap price of the mini-split. Those items (wiring, mounting hardware, etc.) start to add up quickly. A good 12V DC rooftop AC unit that fits in your existing 14" x 14" roof hole would take maybe 2-3 hours to install. You would need to feed a heavier gauge DC power wire to it (hardest part). 30, 50 or even 70 amps on a 12VDC system is very do-able.
1200 watts of solar will give you a peak of 85 watts charging. We have 6 x 200 watt Renogy panels on our roof laying flat. With a decent battery bank, you could use your existing setup and a 12VDC compressor rooftop AC unit all day.
Mini-splits are great! We have a 9000BTU on 7 x 14 (well insulated) cargo trailer - it takes 4-5kwh of power for a complete 24hrs to cool 30F. It can use up to 1000w but typically runs around 400w - 600w.
Your backup location is also closer to what appears to be the area with the most windows. It would make sense to have it there due to being the hottest/coldest area in your TT.
I seen a lady living in her rv and was very friendly and showed me her solution for all rv owners for cold weather for heat. No more propane use. She had a 1750 RD springdale. She got a 1890s cast iron stove single stove burner, weighs about 70 pounds and said they were used in train cabooses. The cabinet in the back of her 1750 RD springdale was removed and two corrugated 4 foot tall metal sheets were place standing up on walls where cabinet was- one on each corner wall And on floor she place a small piece of cement board for stove to stand on. She placed the small caboose cast iron wood burning stove there. she said she sanded the old stove she bought at a garage sale & sealed it with fireplace caulk just to make sure all was sealed and spray painted it with 2500 degree engine barbecue paint. Then she added the first wide stove pipe piece to top of stove... then attached the next pipe (one piece straight up) (in that pipe she added the round air control flap thing ) - then attached the bent joint piece pipe and finally the straight pipe out hole in wall. She sealed with fireplace caulk and metal tape around pipe joints. And painted with the high temp paint and it looked great. It was painted all black Then outside she added a pipe which went up with a sceened vent onnvery top of pipe to keep rain and bugs out. it looked amazing. In her truck was her fire wood. She had a black metal bucket on side of her stove for fire wood and a couole stove pieces. She said she cooks on it too to save on propane. TO CONCLUDE: This set up should be standard in new rvs in my opinion. If one is living in their rv in winter. For one hole in wall that is a great uorlgrade. I would add, to use the metal WALL BRACKET FOR STOVE PIPES. she didnt use one. Just cut a hole.
Hey, if you put the condenser unit on the front of the trailer, be mindful of the limitations of fan rotation speed. There have been reports that the air pressure on a front mounted condenser may cause the fan to spin faster than it can tolerate, damaging the fan blades.
Most units I've looked at can be ordered with longer/extra line. Can NOT cut shorter because line is part of refrigerant capacity.
You can still put outside unit on front and inside unit at rear.
Make sure to clean out the reusable filters once a month. After about a year you may need to check the condensation drain cause it gets clogged up and can over flow through the evaporator. I have a Gree in my apartment and it’s be fantastic, just regular maintenance and it should treat you well! Btw my fiancé and I are very inspired by your lifestyle and are looking forward ourselves to becoming full time RVers. You guys are super down to earth and real, thank you for the content you produce and good luck with this project!!
Thanks David for the video I didn't know these existed and were capable to be put in a camper I am looking you do it now hope you guys are doing great
Hey Stephen! Yeah these are cool the issue is you've gotta be able to power an 800W unit and that's a lot of solar. And thanks for checking in on us we are both great!
-David
After watching your channel for a few years, a year ago we purchased a Grey Wolf 20RDSE which is pretty much the same floor plan as your Springdale. I installed the mini-split immediately. We have the outside unit on the tongue and the inside unit over the window in the bedroom area like you were thinking. It works great. Placing a small fan on the sink counter helps distribute the conditioned air to the back of the trailer. I can send you some pics tomorrow but I'm not sure how best to do that.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but... my dad has been in the HVAC trade for 30 years, he is no longer working out in the field, but he is teaching other technicians how to work with mini-splits, etc. He actually sold his house and moved into his travel trailer so he could be centrally located between the 2 locations he teaches classes at, and of course installed a Mitsubishi mini split on his travel trailer. I would consider not using the tongue location, because both the front and back of the unit would be obstructed. Air flow is king. You could consider moving the propane backwards (to where the batteries were) and having the mini split in front, though if you do this you should probably make some sort of cover to protect the coil from rocks/debris when traveling. And this would potentially make it more difficult to swap out the propane tanks. My dad has his mounted on the rear bumper.
I've installed mini-split units, they work great. Something to take into account is that the exterior mounted compressor/condenser needs to have clearance around it to allow for airflow. Otherwise the condenser will not be nearly as effective.
Totally love watching you guys evolve! - Thanks so much for taking us all along for the ride.
Can’t wait to see your mini split install video! I will also be installing a mini split next year. The difference between your install and mine is, when I remove the RV air conditioner I will be installing a 350 watt solar panel in its place.
Heat pump, only add extra wear & tear, just wear a jacket at bed time. Parts for mini split are hard to get. The split are new to you. The Philippines have using mini split's for over 20 years, they have them mounted all over the buildings .
I'm sure that David knows about the seer rating. It is important to note that the higher the seer rating, the more efficient the system. So a 15 seer is less efficient and will use more electricity as it runs. 20-25 seer will use less electric as it runs. The higher the seer the more it cost to buy but will require less energy to run. To me it is far better to have a system that uses less energy. So I would bite the bullet and spend the money on the highest seer rating I could afford.
LOL. I just asked in another video about trying a mini split. Good response time, there, buddy. Not only are they MUCH more efficient they are soooo much more quiet.
We also have a 7x14 cargo trailer conversion with a mini split. We have a 6.7Kw battery bank and 1500w of panels on the roof. This system will run it full time 24hrs a day with no issues. We are all electric and using a hot water heater, refrigerator and a/c our batteries are typically at 45% in the morning and back fully charged by 11:00 am. We also cook with an induction cooktop and use a countertop convection oven. Do not oversize the mini split however or it will not run long enough in a cycle to take the humidity out of the air.
Pretty much every single thing you stated, is very dependent upon the size and efficiency of the particular unit, and the latitude, climate, altitude and weather of the most extreme conditions where you plan to use it. Yet you didn't say whether you're in Miami, Denver, Phoenix, Seattle, or Bangor. Or what country, for that matter.
Basically the only thing learned from your post is that YOU have a ton of solar and battery, and someone picked out a system that meets YOUR needs.
@@EfficientRVer Absolutely. Any changes in location, time of year, altitude etc. will have a direct effect of the system.
I like your idea and your reasons. If you're putting on the tongue, you could install an accessory rack and mount it on there--that would put it above your batteries and propane. I would caution that you'd want to have some sort of heavy cover to protect it while hauling down the highways. Also, they do make air handlers that are "CASSETTEs" and could mount in the existing rooftop hole. You could then seal that off and if you desired have real estate around and above it for an additional solar panel or two--it/they might be a bit higher than the rest of your panels but likely not taller than the original AC unit--something to think about. DIY units are nice, but as others have pointed out, the line set is not length customizable--I'd suggest paying for an HVAC installer system and let them customize the line set length during your install. Best of luck to both of you on all your future endeavours! Love your channel.
I hope the new mini split system works for you guys. I say if it saves on power consumption, then go for it. As always stay safe and take care,👍😊🙏
YOu can install this yourself but you will need a vacuum pump, gauge set and a good line flaring tool. You don't have to pressure test it with nitrogen but I would suggest once you have it vacuumed close the lines, turn off the pump and let it set overnight. That way if you have a leak it will most likely not have any vacuum in the morning. Also when you open the valves to release the freon, as it states, only let in a little and then soap test your fittings as a second check for leaks. Be careful and cut the line set to fit and not leave a coil of extra line as the oil from the compressor can settle in the bottom of the coil and run the compressor low on oil. If you choose to leave a coil of line lay it flat and not standing up and you won't have this issue.
Not going to fit on the tongue. We looked there and ended up on the rear. I would double think the max fan in the new spot left by the rooftop AC and instead install more solar panels. When we removed the rooftop AC we went from 400w of panels to 2000w of panels. Side benefit is all that sun heating on your roof is eliminated. Even cooler.
FYI pioneer has 20 and 21.5 SEER 9k btu 120 volt mini splits with better cold weather heat pump performance then that unit you are looking at. They also seem be more supportive of diy install then is typical. They have consumer distribution via home depot.
Putting it on the tongue make sure that you have required space front and back for airflow.
I'm looking forward to seeing how this goes! Yall rock and sweetie girl is the best
If you place it on the rear bumper, check your welds you may need extra bracing.
Heat pumps have temperature limits and are not efficient in colder temps. As a refrigeration technician I highly recommend that a professional help with the install. Units are not designed for mobile installation but will work if properly installed. Line set should be shortened as needed and secured to prevent vibration and leaks.
David, I have to agree with the backup spot being best. Definitely take the good advice already given about checking the welds on the back bumper to make sure it doesn’t come off! Also, be mindful of the connection lines as to protection from road debris, clearance and such. If you don’t put it in the wall to protect it I’d run it up to the roofline in back and then over to the side unit. Less likely to get hit by other vehicles or snag on roadside obstructions.
I'm banking this knowledge buddy. Well thought out, thanks for sharing your (as always) sensible approach.
I have a factory-installed mini split (two zone) in my 38' 5th wheel (LG 30k ODU, a 12k IDU and a 9k IDU). The first thing that popped out at me as you discussed the location of the wall-mount unit is airflow ... RV's are narrow and that can cause some interesting problems. I have ceiling cassettes blowing air in 4 directions and what's happening is the air is bouncing off the close-by walls/cabinets and getting sucked back in and causing false temperature readings (as the temperature sensor is in the intake). So whatever you get, I recommend an external temperature sensor (I think some remotes can serve this purpose for some brands) -- but you may end up with cold/hot spots as a result of placing it on the long wall. You might not have a choice ... so the bigger room might work better. In heat mode, this problem is even worse and it's worthless to me (until I install external temperature sensors) since heat rises ... it gets a very very incorrect temperature reading as soon as it starts pumping out heat and prematurely shuts down ... so it doesn't effectively heat my rig.
Granted my setup is quite different, but I'll share this: with high temps < 90F and overnights < 65F, I keep my rig at 72 using about 10-15kWh. the best thing you can do is make sure the sun is off your windows and your insulation is as good as possible. With both zones running full blast (21k BTU), I'll use 1000-1300 watts ... which can settle down to a few hundred watts if the heat load isn't very high.
After installation, verify you're getting a 20+ degree temperature split between intake and output when it's running at max on a hot day. Mine gets as high as 24.
Also, heat mode consumes a LOT more power than air conditioning mode.
Hope that helps!
Liked your input on mini split, also your video on myths. When you talked about security you didn't mention the comfort you have to get from that beautiful Rottweiler sitting beside you. 👍
I sleep much better when one of our pets is along. Their ears are so much better than mine.
We have mini split in our small apartment and 40ft park model trailer. The one in the trailer works fine but it is in the front and the bedroom in the back stays warm or cold depending on the outside temp.
Pretty sure you’d be much happier with the backup location. Better airflow and no drafts when you’re sleeping. If you ordered the correct line set, you could still mount the condenser on the front if you wanted to.
Just installed on for a friend at his recording studio and it works really well. I highly recommend getting one if you can make it fit.
It was scorching hot all summer in WA this year. Look like that's where you were camped this summer.
From what I have experienced with mini splits, they seem superior to normal AC in so many ways. They are more efficient, they use less power,
they are far quieter, they are easier to install than traditional AC, plus with the heat pump version, you get heat also. They don't take up a window, like the window ones,
which for me is a huge deal. I was going to put a split unit in my camper because I needed to replace the AC anyway, but like I said, with health issues
I may not be able to live a travel life style :( I just found out I need knee replacement surgery, so, I am at the least very delayed.
I would say 99% of the time the reason we don’t do something or have something is Financial. Why doesn’t David and Roe have a Luxurious Air Stream Travel Trailer because it cost as much as Condo. Living within your Means requires Sacrifices but Upgrade when possible.
Take your air conditioner off,sell it. Cover the vent. Put solar panels where the ac was.
I too am looking into a MINI... I took my RT AC unit off 2 years ago, to PUT ON MORE SOLAR! ! ! I would SO upgrade them tiny panel you have and get 3-4-5 350-WATTS panels up there! = 12-1,500 watts! ! !
They sell a bracket to connected to the tongue that puts a metal plate above the propane tanks, where you can mount a generator on, might work for you to put the mini split on.
Heat pumps are usually only effective down to about 40°. Larger 5th wheel RVs which have 15K BTU A/C units and an integrated high BTU heat pump are only effective down to about 40° also. Even homes in Southern US which don't have a furnace and are equipped solely with a heat pump to warm the house in the winter time are only effective down to about 40° as well. People in those climes usually have a couple of electric heaters to supplement the heat pump in case temperatures approach freezing. The minisplit A/C can be handy. However, it is not the year round panacea you seem to espouse. I believe you'll still have to supplement your minisplit heat pump with your propane furnace once temps get really cold and near or below 32°F.
Wrong. They cost more than the cheaper mini-splits, but there are models where the heat pump feature does work down to as low as -23 F, which has been documented on multiple videos and the manufacturers guarantee it. Those most efficient models have SEER ratings down around 22 or more (not related to the minimum operating temperature of -23 F) while the units you’re talking about are older technology with SEER ratings of around 12 -15.
@@jimmanley2796 I don't believe that any RV heat pump A/C unit I have ever looked at was effective to -23°. In point of fact, Montana salesmen have advised me not to rely on the heat pump in much the same way they say not to rely on the electric fireplace. But, if you know of one, I would certainly like to know the make and model of RV. I'm not sure a minisplit which only puts out about 8K BTUs at best will produce 8K BTUs of heat. You sound like you have a lot of experience with RV minisplits a
You might check out Campervan Kevin’s channel, he has installed several mini splits! Good luck! Interested in your wind turbine ideas and solutions! 🖖🏻👍🏻😘🙏🏻
In July I put a mini split on the front of rv trailer. Works great, but I wouldn't place it over my bed. Blowing air starting and stopping all night long would drive me nuts. Seal the ac hole and put two or three solar panels in that spot. That's what I did. Now I have 1500 watts of solar enough for my needs...for now.
I had 3 split air units on our house in India 15 years ago. They are great. They are just catching on here, but have been used extensively overseas for a couple of decades. Using in a travel trailer in novel and I like the idea.
I'm guessing I'm Not Lost, I'm Rving has something to do with this? Since seeing their video, I've really looked into this, even for my cabin and I think it's a great option.
Ps. Made this comment before hearing David say it. Lol
Hi there!! I’ve got the rig that you do😁 I’ve noticed that I have greater temperature differences because of all the back windows. I think I’d put it in that area… I also don’t think putting in the sleeping area would be comfortable for me. Of course, you do you! 😁👍❤️. Oh also, do you have any tips on how to repair nail or screw holes in the wallpaper walls?
Awesome info, thanks for sharing your thoughts on how you are doing the mini split! Not sure if you are aware that your mic in this video is maybe a bit close, It seems almost like your are yelling unnecessarily is all, keeping in mind that most folks listen with ear buds. Always enjoy your vids, much useful info in them always!
Super cool. Thanks for sharing.
Mr cool mini is a good option and wind turbines not that effective watch “slim potato head on wind power “. More battery and panels better use of money 😎😎
I believe Mr Cool is one of the only units that are diy, meaning they’re pre-charged with freon, although I could be wrong and others are also diy units. I’m just partial to the mr cool because of the overall value you tend to get.
I think it is ridiculous that from this point forward all RVs don't come with heat pump a/c split units.
The wind generation sounds like a nice project but it hasn't really made ton of sense for others. But it would certainly be interesting to watch your procedure after fine-tuning your procedure with these other UA-camrs that have gone before you.
There is another very interesting thing that would work for boondockers like yourself and that is the one hour shower.
You can set it up as a shower curtain outside (or a catch pan on your inside showerwith. Set up a pump and you can even heat the water pretty easily there's a filtration system and there's a UA-camr I forget his name that completely designed a system and there are many that have copied from him.
My idea would be to take a shower and let It go with soap and water.
And then move into the relaxing warm water spa portion which would be the next 90% of my shower that would just be recycled but it would mostly be clean even though filtered.
And then you decide when to dump and replenish the water but you only need a gallon. I think he uses a half gallon.
GONE BOONDOCKING
that's the channel he's great!
He has many videos on his shower with complete parts list assembly instructions he even has upgraded versions.
ua-cam.com/video/WgF9OoX0-w0/v-deo.html
To me you guys are living the dream of the true RV experience where you go boondocking out in nature you're not in a trailer park you're becoming self-sufficient. You're learning the different altitudes I would like to see you get a nice 4x4. You bring plenty of water with you.
I would like to see someone explore the solid waste incinerator for prolonging boondocking optional extended stays if you find an absolutely beautiful spot. Have you heard about these?
Also maybe more efficient solar panels and an additional battery or two if you have the room. Battleborn!
I dig your idea of the mini split. I also just heard that 12V air conditioners are coming out as well, gonna be a hard call as to which direction to go....
Do not put the outside a/c unit where it will blow hot air on your L.P. tanks
It can overheat them.
Goneboondocking did an excellent video about how efficient a mini-split is in his RV. It was about 2 years ago.
FYI. I live in the Rexburg area of Eastern Idaho. We've been here three years and have yet to see 100 degree temps. Avg this summer was mid-80's. Occasional low to mid-90's.
I have my 12k btu single split in my 170 Sprinter running 24/7 with solar and lithium :)
Would like to see a demo of a mini-split because it sounds super cool.
Great idea - Keep that sweetie nice and comfortable! 👍
you still need to run your generator to run that AC unless you get a huge battery bank.
can't wait to see the install video.
i've been on the fence about buying Titan solar generator with a 2000 watts worth of solar panels, i am aiming to use it for air conditioning, i already know i can't run my residential grade A/C using what im producing with solar, so i was thinking about just getting a Kapsul, but it never crossed my mind to get a mini-split im gonna look it up, thanks, and looking forward to see the installation video
Perhaps, silly question/comment, David, but, 1) What is the price diff between the split and the roof system (common)?, 2) Your opinion on whether mfg's will go to the split sys rather than the roof drop-in? 3) Would there be a service issue/prob w/ the split-system?
Looking forward to the install videos of the split-system; gonna have to pull Thomas and Stacey's vids!
Y'all Be Safe!
I'd pony up some more money and get the way more efficient and absolutely top quality Fujitsu 9000BTU/hr unit. It's pretty much the most efficient minisplit of any size. Or you can upgrade to it in 1-3 years when you get tired of living with the mistake of not investing in efficiency.
I think the critical parameter will be how long you might want it to run after the sun goes down on a windless day.
Use the reduced amount of solar and battery needed (apples to apples, unit vs unit) to help cost justify it. Also figure out how much heater fuel usage you can avoid via using the minisplit for heat, again with the Fujitsu being the most efficient at that. Though that requires taking a look at battery capacity and how hard you want to cycle batteries for heating needs. In moderate climates, you get a pretty high COP out of the Fujitsu for heating.
You might want to use the newly opened roof space to jam as much solar there as you can in any case.
I do agree with 9000 as the right size.
you still can put A/c compressor on the tongue of trailer You may need add copper pipe
David, if you were to do it over again would you buy your current trailer again? If not, what would you go with in the same weight,length?
Did you decide which wind turbine you are going with?
Dave why remove basked over the bed and make self where one area think of mini split Now power and hose can go down in the closet. also you will have strait flow of air to living area.
They do make inverter air conditioners in the rooftop style for rv’s.
Hey David. Putting a Mini-split on the tongue is a bad idea because of the proximity to the propane tanks. The heat from the Mini-split can cause the propane tanks to over heat.
Maybe you better hire Thomas just to make sure you do it correctly plus paying Thomas a bit might save a bigger problem. He is pretty good at what he does plus your helping a fellow YTer. Where’s Roe. Hope she is ok health wise.
You might want to talk to Thomas about airflow in his class C. I would think mounting the inside unit of the mini split on the far back or the far front will give you better air flow of the cool air.
After viewing their video on installing the mini split, I say don’t let Thomas touch your cabinetry.
Some mini splits will do cooling, heating, and have a built-in dehumidifier which I think you would be very interested in. Some units also have intelligent vents so that the air follows you wherever you are. Might be useful, might not.
Again you might want to look at a portable solar tracker for your ground Solar panels. You might think of installing one of those units that use your truck alternator to charge your batteries while you're driving.
This old guy installed a mini split in his class C a while ago. I believe he said that he had 900 amp hours of battery and ran his mini split 24/7/365 off solar. Different than a trailer.
ua-cam.com/video/rjVIxqTHahY/v-deo.html
Hi David, Are you going to get Thomas to install the system?
Hahaha no I'd do it myself, although it would be awesome if he were there to help!
@@FateUnbound That's great. I'm thinking of putting one in my camper and was looking for some to help or install it. Are you going to do an install video?
"But but but!" He said.... The mini-split will pay for itself on the heat side alone over a couple of years because you can A)not burn LP to heat, and B) becasue you have eliminate LP usage for heat, can possibly downsize the LP tank ( this is my plan on the RV I am buying but I have a massive tank) .. and .. wait for it... you then can delete the heater, gaining more space back and loosing weight!!
Another "but but but".. is.. whoa!!.. not another smart fan!!! Delete the AC and use that space to add more solar.. and while we are at it.. maybe it is time to evaluate how efficiently you are using the roof space you do have. I see so many putting up 100 watt panels, when is not much more space you can put up 400 watt panels.
I guess I am lucky in that my system will be new from the ground up, starting with 6-400wt panels and feeding a 280ah 48violt battery back ( with plans to take it to double that as time goes by) .. My *master plan of RV power nirvana*, means deleting the Roof AC, the furnace, downsizing the LP tank and installing a Mini Split. But it also means dumping the 4000 watt builtin RV generator, and the weight of that beast, plus not having to tap into the RV gas tank to run it. For me the cost savings is going to include not needing to be in an RV park to get Juice or run the generator as often as I might, and when I do need a gasoline genny I will have a small portable for less the $800.
My rig of choice is.. well.. it is not small, but it is not massive ether.. a Safari Trek 31'....
My dad used to say "No Yeah Buts".. but he was wrong. ;)
I think the people that use mini splits the most have skoolies and there are tons of videos and info on Facebook skoolie groups about them, hope it helps!
It's been a while since I saw the last video where you showed the roof of your trailer, but I would think that once you do the mini-split you might be able to fit another solar panel up there. But like I said, it's been long enough I don't remember what kind of space you have up there.
Just get a nicer rig,maybe an airstream or grand design
Evaporative clothes. Polyester for the win. Cross air flow. Air water misters!!!! (handheld squeeze bottles - get the right kind) before going with big power-sucking appliances.
Starting at body levels makes a big difference. If you still wear cotton, you will get the most out of my point.
Good tip but I they have lots of animals on board.
Good stuff David!
Great channel great video! My question is this, is the mini split a lower BTU output? I’m Wondering how it takes less electric/battery power to operate if it’s the same size? But with all the pros outweigh the cons it sounds like a definite yes
If you mount the outside unit on the tough of the trailer , You will be blowing heat on you
If he's standing between the trailer and truck, maybe.
Have you considered an evaporative cooler? I had one in a studio apartment in college, and when the humidity is low, they work great.
It'll work great if they stay in dry climate areas like Arizona, but since this is for an RV, it's not practical if they travel to humid states. Also, they would need an ample supply of water to run it.
@@calitaco I hear they use 2-3 gallons a day, so for a 2 week stays that adds up to maybe 30 to 40 gallons of water. Definitely quite a bit of water, but if it works, it might be a good way to drydock very comfortably.
Ok what is your second UA-cam channel????
Flavor Unbound
Excited to watch your project. I’ve looked at this video from Thomas and Stacy a while back. M am really interested in the placement and how well it holds up traveling around like you guys go. Good luck I’ll be watching 😊
I see your Lectric brand E-bike , I`m considering buying this brand , do you like it ??
Are you still needing the soft start or are you finding the amps are low enough to just jump it on Lithium batteries?
Blessings always ☝🏼💯🙏🙏🙏👏❤️
blown away!
Did you install the unit?
Yaaaaaay what great news
I think you will be disappointed.
A typical AC that draws the kind of power you're talking about your rooftop AC using, produces around 13,000 BTU/hr, which is the measure of how much heat they can move. This is rather large, and is bigger than what I survived the 116 degree heatwave last month. But it's necessary to have that much in an RV/travel trailer, because they are so poorly insulated. The mini-split you're looking at, wild guess based on its power consumption, is probably around 5000 BTU/hr or less. So while a mini-split could get you off of the propane for heating, it's probably not going to be enough to make your trailer comfortable on hot days. The fact that you are burning a lot of propane when you run your heater says a lot about the insulation in your trailer - it's insufficient for a lower-powered AC.
For the money, you would probably be better off adding more rooftop solar panels. If you're already maxed out on roof space, then I don't have a good solution for you, except it's always cooler at higher altitudes, so you can plan your trips seasonally.
You can borrow some roofestate from the cap of that big ass long bed 🛌
They are looking at a 9k btu unit. The larger condenser allowed by the packaging and the variable speed compressor gets you much better efficiency vs an rv roof air or a typical window ac unit. Mini splits are some of the most efficient ac units on the market.
I can buy a LOT of propane for $800 !!
Only costs $10 to$15 to fill a 20 lb tank.
Payback time probably 2 or 3 years.
Well, we live in our RV so a 2-3 year payback time is really really good.
John don't forget the gas and your time to get the propane. Also if your boondocking, it's one less major thing you will need to think about. Moreover, no more noise.
But what about ac?
@@Weak_juan it does both, heat an cool.
David, do you have an a/c voltage reducer like a SoftStartRV? I've seen it reduce amps to between 5-11 amps max!
Yes, they have a Micro-air Easy start. It does not reduce the overall power consumption. It simply staggers the start up of the fan and compressor, so they both don't start at the same time, thereby reducing the "start-up" amp draw. The fan starts first, then a little delay before the compressor starts.
This is a world wide issue. Severe Heat, severe cold. But as I said before, you need to look into Air gapped 99% reflective material if you refuse to park in the shade or valleys. This shielding will improve the split system efficiency you plan on installing as well. No way to get around it, blocking the solar input is the issue. That is not going to change for generations now with the weak magnetosphere cycle we are in. I understand.. pine trees, sap, so fourth, but you need to have a contingency. And costs... Son, you have e bikes. So.. you know health is your wealth. You are young now, but that goes very very fast.
Thanks for the video Dave. Camper Van Kevin uses those on his RV's Check him out :-)
If you were to get a wind turbine, how do you plan to store it when you're mobile?
We'd just put it in our truck bed during travel
@@FateUnbound Why not leave it up and get more input from it? Seems like a *perfect* time for a turbine to help.
@@JustAKidder I want to hear the answer to this. It would take someone a whole lot smarter than we are, but I'm wondering if it can somehow be done. ~ Kir and Ron
@@JustAKidder I think picking the right turbine is the most important consideration in the application. About a year ago we looked at the possible turbines and our heads were spinning. We definitely need someone with applicable experience for that. Thanks for your Reply. ~ Kir
@@JustAKidder Electrical engineer here: the power you can get from a wind turbine in the airstream over a vehicle will ALWAYS be less than the power loss you get from the added drag produced by the wind turbine. So you're really just charging your batteries with a generator that's loosely coupled to your truck engine through a circuitous and inefficient path. If that weren't the case, then perpetual motion would be easy.
Just don't put it on the front of you trailer, it will leak.the side I the back is like Camper van Kevin set up, ck out his channel.
get Lithium ion batteries!!!
Wind turbine. LOL. Go with the mini split. You hipsters tickle me.
Your starting to look like your wife
Y'all a tricky. I miss Roe, so now I have to do twitch. sneaky bastages. ;)
Whatever that means...