Re: Keyless RV door lock - to keep the top screw of the side plate from backing out, you can apply a small drop of LocTite blue or, if you never want to remove that screw without significant effort, LocTite red. To keep the lock body from moving, you can loosen it and apply a bead of Pro Flex RV caulk (or similar) all the way around on both sides of the hole in the door before reassembling it. Thanks for sharing your RV experiences!
On the auto lock door handle I would run double side tape under it. This will help it from moving or even a bead of silicone. That should help it stop moving. Also if it is moving then it means it doesn’t haven’t a good seal and could possibly leaking inside the door and this could cause the door to de laminate.Thank for the video and if someone already said all this just ignore lol. 1.2k comments I didn’t want to look through them all lol. Good job and I appreciate the videos.
Negative on using silicone caulk on a vehicle. Silicone caulk hardens; at the first bump, components shift and that bond breaks, requiring a second/third/fifteenth application. . 2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle. For our windows, I used Vulcum 116. Nearly two decades of rough logger tracks to remote mountain lakes and no-trails to isolated Baja beaches, our Vulcum 116 is soft, pliable, intact.
I was confused at 1st as to how you described your cats making the blind noise with their paws. Then I laughed out loud as the cat did exactly how you described. Talented cat. Lol
I concur on the thread locker. Use Blue if you want an easier time of removal . And Red if you if you never want to remove the screws. As for the lock set itself wiggling, try some RTV around the perimeter flange and the door.
I built my own 280 Ah 24VDC LiFePO4 batteries for less than $1000 each; I now have three. All you have to do is buy the raw 3.2VDC cells, matched sets in the voltage range you desire, add the BMS (battery management system), bottom balance, and bata bing, we have a battery. Four 3.2 cells in series equal 12.8 volts (a 12-volt battery), add 4 more cells and one has a 24 volt or you can connect two 12 volt batteries in series to make a 24 volt.
Great tips and really liked the reasoning, cost and "would we do it again" explanations. However, perhaps you didn't realize that the shut-off valve on any shower head is supposed to drip even when off! This way you don't accidently leave the hot and cold wall valves open with the valve on the head closed - which could lead to a burst hose (which isn't intended to take constant pressure for the long term) when you are gone causing you to unknowingly lose all of your water. Cheers!
I have the same lock on my fifth wheel and it never wiggled. But on the inside plastic piece I lined the back of it with 3M permanent outdoor double stick tape because I didn't like it flexing when I closed the door from the inside. It made it rock solid, And in your case I bet it would lock it down and stop it from moving. Just an idea. But me and my wife love the lock, It was a game changer for us. We are full timing with a 3-year-old and being able to drive up to the side of your RV and unlock it with the fob has been awesome. Especially when you have full hands carrying the little guy up the steps or groceries and you're trying to get in fast due to bad weather, This lock has been fantastic!
Red is a little too permanent for my liking. Blue should hold just fine. If you use red and need to remove it later you might strip the Phillips heads trying to back the screws out.
Hey guys great video. Door Latch problems fix, first replace all screws with stainless and as mentioned screws may be a bit too long so either get shorter ones or shave the tips off and by all means use lock tight. Also prior to reassembly put a good bead of silicone glue on both in and outside portion of this locking mechanism, this will help not only glue this unit solidly onto the door as well as a waterproof/ draft proof seal. The both of you have inspired me to not buy a ready made RV instead build one myself using a built to spec 42' goose neck car hauler with 7'-8" of ceiling space to be not only my living quarters but also having the ability to haul my Yamaha Venture motorcycle as well as my Can Am Outlander for off-road explorations. I am getting ready to retire here within the next year and have decided to not stay put in one place for the rest of my life. With over 40 years of working in the construction of homes, commercial spaces as well as industrial I am more than capable of taking on this task. I am in the design stage now with so many ideas dancing in my head like spray foam insulating all walls floor and ceiling as well as rubber undercoating the underside of this trailer. Under flooring heating systems for living areas, dual rooftop AC units, walk-in shower with seating and planing on using 6- 190 watt Go Power panels with 4- Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery's accompanied by an Onan QD 3200 diesel generator to assure I have substantial power to stay off grid for however long as needed. I dig the composting toilet idea for its efficiency and will be using Uponor piping trough out for the absolute assurance of no water leaks ever. Where i'm not too sure yet is tank sizes, was thinking 250 - 350 gal min for fresh water and have no idea for the others. Its just me and two dogs for now, my Jenny passed away way too young from cancer, but life goes on and I look towards living it to its fullest. Any suggestions you can make would be helpful and very grateful. Once again I want to thank the both of you for your awesome channel and the great work the both of you put into it. I am a long time subscriber to it and look forwards to many more enlightening videos. The two of you are very blessed to be able to live life on your terms. God willing you will be able to continue this for as long as you wish.
With the intent to be helpful... About the RV Lock and other similar fitting issues (step by steps are on UA-cam by Issue) 1) Filling holes with similar materials and then re-drill (might need to tap if it's a heavy load): I use JB weld for aluminum/steel/other, plastic filler, wood filler and super glue 2) Opening: I use aluminum or wood sheets with strong glues or fasteners (Like, patch door lock area and restart install). 3) Things that rattle or wiggle: Get the right spray foam for the issue and consider it will stop access to the area. I use 'Great Stuff - low expansion' for most fillings. Hope this is helpful and reading others comment... Aloha
The cats must be wondering why you got a composting toilet instead of kitty litter.LoL . Great video, very informative. Can’t wait to get rid of the banquettes in my camper.
Loved this video. You two are so practical and relatable, but also fun and cute. Thank you for sharing with all of us. Amazing job with the production, editing of your content. Appreciate you.
The cat and the blinds 🤣 DYING! - you said they were constantly in them, but seeing it cracked me up enough to scare 3 sleeping dogs! - We'll be full-time camper living by fall - thank you so much for this video!
door lock, if those are wood screws take it out, dip a couple tooth picks in wood glue, shove them in the hole and break them off. then you have all new wood to put your screw back in. If the screw is metal with cut threads in a metal frame, wrap the screw in foil, enough to get a tight fit, and screw it back in. use silicon calking to stick the lock to the door, waterproof it and keep it from moving. Great channel!
For your lock how about 1/8" rubber membrane you can cut to size as a gasket for both the inside and outside lock faces. Will also keep the door locks from slipping once tightened! Good luck!
This is the best solution and what I was going to post. I would not use glue or silicone, your screws seem to be holding fine but your door is just a little to thin for the lock system. using the 1/8" weather stripping will take up that slack and your lock with fit much better. Not to mention the added benefit of "weather stripping". LOL
If you find screws loosening up take tooth pick break off to fill hole. Squirt some wood glue in. Let that set up a few minutes. Put screws back in. The glue will help bind the tooth pick to the wood and give the screw new material to bite into
Use red lock tight on your screws if you want it fairly permanent. Don't use silicone, or glue. If for some reason you need to remove it. The glue makes a mess. Silicone is inherently slippery. So when it dries. If ever the bond breaks free. It will just make it unscrew a lot quicker.
I love that you learn how to do all this and do it yourself. I do all home construction projects myself and respect that. Not too many can handle that.
Replaced rear bunk beds next to rear bathroom in our 2007 Alumalite 32 ft. bunkhouse trailer with an acrylic claw foot slipper bathtub and had enough room at the narrow end of tub on the back wall for a Splendide washer/dryer. Our water heater could heat 10 gal in under 8 minutes, so 20 minutes for almost 30 gal of HOT water. We also took out our trailers range, (the oven was only good for burning cookies) & put in a FisherPaykel dishwasher drawer and gas cooktop. There are many electric cookers better than the gas oven. Made three years of full time RVing luxurious!
They make a stainless version of the key lock that even uses RFID key fob, the kind like cars that automatically unlocks your door when your within 5’ of the door. They run about $350.
We have owned 6 RVs and for several of those we put an RVLOCK on. We moved to a MotorHome and it takes a larger lock. We bought the RVLOCK for that and I promise you... we had it or pieces of it replaced 4-5 times!!! I did find a fix... we went to a Baur keypad lock... MUCH MUCH better quality... heavier build.. just better all the way around... like y’all. We love not having to carry keys to go on a walk. The other thing... the Baur locks the deadbolt. Not the other one. Plus one on the oxygenics!! We have ALWAYS changed out the shower head to one of those... thanks for the top on the back flow limiter... can’t believe I haven’t thought about that. A great video. Thanks!!!
When you take the inside plate of the lock off you need to see what the gap is. The lock sounds to be for a different door. You may have to shim the inside of the middle of the lock. Does that make sense ? So when the lock slid in from the outside of the door was it snug meaning it couldn't rotate? If the door lock hole was to big it may need a small wood blink to stop it from rotating from inside the middle of the door. Sorry if I rattled on.
Great Job!!! I have a fix for your keyless door assembly. At the age of 72, I have learned a few things and I would like to share about securing things you never want to move again. (1) to prevent the movement, apply 3M 4000, in your choice of color on the backside of the unit that comes in contact with the door. 3M 4000 is UV resistant and somewhat removable as compared to 3M 5200 which is permanent and (2) Locktite 220 to the threads and reinstall. I believe your biggest issue is with the assembly movement, so when you stabilize the movement, you may be able to skip the Locktite. Make certain you have located the lock assembly where you want it. 3M 4000 is extremely strong and semi permanent. You really don't need to run a full bead around the lock assembly with the 3M 400 and just apply it in the corners and maybe halfway between each corner. I have used 3M 5200 and 4000 for many years as a boater and owning an RV.
On your keyless lock. Take 1 striker screw to hardware store get stainless steel replacements. Get blue locktite thread locker for the screws Get a roll of dicor tape ( burial tape) to put a seal between lock and outer door skin. Get a cheap plastic cutting board to make a shim plate for the inside .
the solar setup just kept going and going and going. I was chomping at the bit to hear the cost and then the relief of hearing the why. Definitely worth the money in the long run.
@@michellestratford9753 yes, its just changing the pins in all the locks to match, a good locksmith can have a 20 foot camper done in around an hour, some lock types might take a little longer.
@@michellestratford9753 trying to find a locksmith that would do it , theses locks for rvs are like big rigs so many rvs they do have a little difference in teeth shape but not much to where guys are still getting in by jamming keys into it and opening it
This was really helpful. I'm a single middle aged woman picking up my RV on Thursday to go full time, I completely agree with you about solar power and the economic return. There's no way I can afford to pay to camp in plug in campgrounds either😊 Thank you so much!
So for the door lock issue. I am alarm technician. I install different style of locks. If you go to Home Depot or Lowe’s. The inside and the outside part that connects locks on Yale locks comes with a little rubber mat that is designed to eliminate those movements.
Take out the mounting screws for your door lock and shorten the screws by cutting them down a little. They may be bottoming out before they fully pinch the door frame tight.
I, too, laughed at the cat and the mini blinds! A universal problem, lol. Don't you two have it going on! I love the creativity you display in creating a home that satisfies your personal desires and fulfills the dream of travel. David ... you remind me of my husband and his creativity with all things electrical. He would have loved to read about your work with the solar panels, extra batteries for storage, etc., it is all really exciting, isn't it!? You have all of this at your fingertips ... the zest for life ... knowledge with which to pursue your dreams ... love for one another ... supportive family. This makes for a good, satisfying life. God bless your endeavors!
All nice upgrades. You have the solar system of my dreams!!!! Spending so much time boondocking, where do you empty your grey tanks and composting toilet??? Thank you.......
The ‘cam’ locks for under rv storage is what I was told share keys with multiple other rv’s... I replaced mine with combo cam locks. I can change the lock whenever and there’s no more keys necessary. I also have the rv lock that you guys do. I’ve never had a problem and I have one on each of my 3 trailers. Is a nice upgrade I think because no keys are needed for anything... I lose keys, lol. Another reason I like it is because there’s also the keyless remote and a physical key you can use if you choose... keyless remote is nice when my hands are full. Great and helpful video, thanks!
My cats love to swipe the MCD brand day/night shades with their paws. Even with their claws trimmed and dull they can still make enough noise to wake me up, there is a slight texture to the night shade and I'm sure it feels good on their little paws.
We put our solar panels on two racks and did not attach them to our trailer. That way we could park the trailer in the shade and place the panels remotely in the sun. We can also adjust the panels for morning/afternoon sun easily as well. Being very careful with the line voltage of the DC power and Ohm's Law, we have our panels set up in combination series/parallel configuration so we do not need heavy power cords back to the trailer and still have a safe DC voltage to work with. By having our roof clear, we also made a sun shade for the trailer as well. A couple of cheap air mattresses on the roof and a sunshade cover we made keeps the trailer from being an oven, even in the open desert. It works very well. Sunshade material can be purchased all over )Amazon, Lowe's, Etc.) and comes in different colors and weights. Avoid the heavy weight though, it does not breathe as well as the medium or lighter weights and can trap heat more. This is not a waterproof tarp, it is a fabric which will just keep direct sunight from hitting the trailer and will not trap heat under. We actually made some nice tents out of it for group gathering/meals using old Costco frames. Even in the desert, they make life much more pleasurable. Using tan material helps us blend in the desert a bit for more privacy. Haven't made a camo one yet by combining different colots, but it's on the list. The dining tent we made has a tan top and lighter weight dark green for the sides. Black would also be good for the sides - dark colors are easier to see thru than light colors. I have been collecting old frame parts so I can mix-and-match to make a tent larger than the stock 10'X20'. Someone who welds could make some very interesting designs/sizes. Shade cloth is great stuff - especially for dry camping.
Door lock, remove screw, cut a tooth pick from a board and drive it in then reinsert the screw, a little wood glue wouldn't hurt, but isn't necessary. You want a tight fit with the wood, but don't split the original wood in the door. This works for most all screws in wood
You are the second full time RV video I’ve seen that mentions the locks! Thank you! My husband and I will definitely be looking at doing this for our RV. Great information on the upgrades.
For the door lock, take it back apart and put in spacers to fill any gaps, that will make it solid, reassemble with blue loctite on the screws, and put some silicone behind both pieces, to seal it up and help hold it in place.
Not sure if you have found the solution for the RVLock yet but it is pretty easy. The problem is your door is slightly too thin for the supplied screws/bolts. Get a couple of nuts from hardware store and thread them onto the screw/bolt then cut off or use a grinder to take off just 1/16 inch and then when you screw off the bolt it will fix the thread. Try tightening them back together and see if it clamps it tighter. If still a little lose then repeat just taking off tiny bits. That is for the 4 screws on the inside. For the striker plate go to Lowes or HD and find matching screws in stainless steel to replace.
Instead of replacing the brick (mattress) that comes in the RV I would consider a high quality topper. Kohls has them. Much cheaper, a little lighter weight and very comfortable.
I had to consider weight, so replaced my mattress with a nice air mattress. Had to put a topper underneath as well as on top to keep the cold temp away, but it's worked well. Deeper than my old mattress.
The previous owners of our RV installed a residential deadbolt lock above the factory installed lock and handle. Voila, you have better security for a reasonable price. I totally agree with the new locks on the basement doors. We did that on our rig as well. Nothing is forever. Not even a stick and brick house. One day you might get tired on the road or want to upgrade. We would love solar but we aren't full time and as you pointed out, extremely expensive. We do have a generator, however.
I have to admit that David is a very smart man to be able to do all of these upgrades himself. Great to see a man that can still work with his hands. Creative thought went into some of the upgrades. Great job.
Its not that rare here in the south that's the way we're raised around here we call it jack of all trades i can do just about anything and if i don't know about something ill do my research and learn it
Perhaps LED lights are standard now. But, they save a BUNCH on power drain when boondocking. A switch to isolate the coach battery at night from the tow vehicle battery has saved us from many dead truck batteries the next morning. Learning how to repair/replace your RV equipment is a must when boondocking and when avoiding the hassle of waiting for and paying professional installers. Thanks to UA-cam, learning how to accomplish these tasks has become a lot easier.
Gr8 video. I agree with Wade and loctite "BLUE." In order to eliminate lock rotation, I would use 3M 4200 Silicone Marine Adhesive. After alcohol cleaning both door and lock mating surfaces, apply a thin layer on lock outer perimeter edges. Warning: Don't use 3M 5200 as it won't come apart in the future if you want to replace the lock in the future. 🤪 Cheers, Eric
There are 3 things you can do to fix your RV lock: 1. Remove, sand and paint the "striker plate" with gloss paint or automotive wheel clearcoat. 2. Cut the offending screw down that does not screw in tight enough, a small amount, then chase the threads for easy installation 3. Put Bostik industrial adhesive sealant underneath the lock faceplates (the inside and outside parts which have the buttons on it outside and handles on it inside), just a dab in a few places will do ya. You must let this dry under no load for at least 24 hours on high vibration joints. You are effectivly glueing the lock assembly to the door. Make sure to align it correctly and keep it aligned while the adhesive sets 4. (BONUS) use blue thread locker on all fasteners on re-assembly
For the bed lift mechanism, replace the long bolts sticking through with shorter ones. It will be $3 well spent if you don’t tear a sleeve (or arm) on it.
My favorite was the desk upgrade. I watched that video and was impressed. I know how much you two like boondocking, which is fine since you're young (when I started out RV ing that's what I did). I crunched the same numbers, 300 days at an average of $30 is $9,000 a year. My lifetime Thousand Trails membership was $7,645! I only pay $39.17 per month in dues, and I've already paid off my membership and used it enough in one year to justify the initial amount. I still boondock, and if I'm in an area where there are no Thousand Trails I don't feel bad having to pay to stay outside the TT network knowing that I'll eventually be camping for $39.17 a month back with TT. Except for the Vegas TT, they have some very nice properties with friendly staff, activities, pools, laundry rooms, hiking trails, etc.
most of those membership areas are based on available space... lot of them get full by full timers/ long timers and no space available for the time you want... like timeshare fails
I replaced my key with that same type of electronic entry and have no wiggles and no problems. Huge upgrade to the conventional lock. I would do it again and recommend it to anyone looking to camp more than just on weekends.
Hey folks! So, about the RV door lock... The trick to the installation (and in this case), correcting it... You have to make sure to create a gasket/seal for the housing to door area. In my case, I also had to re-cut the shape of the housing, by a little bit, and create a gasket. The process doesn't take long, as you can create a gasket from all kinds of seal products. I recommend using the sealant/gasket on the door lock first, and then on the door second. I found that using a rubber-based sealant gasket works excellent. Let the sealant dry on the lock side first, so that you have a hard gasket to work with, and make sure that it is evenly set first. THEN, use the second application (door side) and then do all steps as normal. If you do it properly? You won't have anymore slippage problems, and you will have a weatherproof seal that will make you and your home happy for years to come!
As an RV sales person, these are some of the DOPEST upgrades I have ever seen! Congrats to you guys living what is now basically the american dream! When you're ready to upgrade to that MONTANA let me know! I've got the BEST prices in the country!
RV lock put a bead of caulking around the edge and don't slam the door like a car door. Close the door like you are sneaking out. Keep in mind locks are only for honest people anybody with a crowbar can open a RV in seconds.
I'm a lock /safe guy just replace your striker screws with longer and slightly wider width along with outdoor commercial loctite or similar sticking substance and use that substance on the interior contact points. This will result in a perfect like new fit 🙏
Very informative, enjoyed each item and the details you went through. Also appreciated the refreshing lack of "upspeak". Having viewed 40-50 videos in the last week it's great that you're not following the crowd and making every single sentence a question. Thank you.
Since this video has nearly 1600 comments, I'm sure others have suggested this, but maybe not. You can use some weatherstripping to sit between the door and the lock flange (on the inside) to tighten it, and some blue Loctite on the striker plate screws to keep them in place.
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Use locktite on the screws on your door. They make two formulas, one for screws you plan on taking off and one that's for screws that are permanent. It'll stop your screws from coming loose. To stop the wiggling you might try a dab of construction adhesive between the lockface and the door.
You can get Better screws at any hardware store for the rust and it looks like you could drill another hole to the LEFT outside edge on the inside of the door/lock to keep it from moving up and down...?
Locktite is great for the screws. Make a gasket out of thin rubber or similar gasket material to take up any space between the lock mechanism and the door. That will allow you to tighten it up.
Please forgive if already commented, but for the lock issues: 1). Use “Loctite” threadlocker to keep the screws from rattling loose. Just don’t use the maximum strength “red” version, which is more permanent. 2). Replace the zinc screws with stainless steel screws, which aren’t nearly prone to rust as much. I hope this helps! (if not already solved).
I would argue to say Loctite 242, blue medium strength is more than adequate and you won't have to destroy fasteners to remove them again. Red loctite often require heating the fasteners to remove them in the future, which would destroy things on the RV itself. For reference, loctite 242 is used to hold gun sights on. There's significant impulse to the recoil of a pistol, and the sight posts stay on tight. It should be adequate for an RV.
Remove each screw, fill the hole with wooden toothpicks with glue on each and then put the screw back in will keep screws tight. Can remove both faceplate covers to put a bead of sealant on the inside edge will seal and hold door lock in place. Wiping off any sealant that squeezes out or running a bead around the outside edge will hold it in place. Painting the striker plate will stop rusting.
Because so many people in this world are jealous of anyone who is generally happy with their life and instead of trying to take a lesson they want to tear them down and rain on their parade in any way they can. They are usually born losers that are too afraid to improve their station in life because they don't think they have what it takes so they want to bring others down to the level they are on. A level where shame, failure, negativity, hatred, atheism and depression rules and ambition, motivation, positivity, spirituality, hope and accomplishment have no place. NEVER ever let anyone else tell you what you can't do, what you won't do, what you're not allowed to do, or judge your work, your lifestyle, your choices, or your beliefs in any way. NOBODY and I mean NOBODY, family, friends, bosses, no human is qualified or has the right to judge you or discourage you. Do what you feel is RIGHT in your heart and always listen to that little voice inside we all have. It always speaks the truth, 100% of the time. The problem is most people have such loud external influences that drown out the sound of that voice and that is where unhappiness and bad decisions creep in, it's where the cycle of what we call "bad luck" starts, but there's no such thing. There are only decisions, and the wrong people can influence those decisions, such as a thumbs down on a great video you made. What if a few thumbs down and a few rude comments were the first ratings they received on this video? If they were easily influenced by that they may have taken it down, thinking it was no good, ashamed and embarrassed. Think if that happened the thousands of people that wouldn't get the benefit of watching this video full of useful information. There may have been thousands of mistakes by would be RV owners because they missed this video, and thousands of frustrating situations, and a lot of despair and negative energy sent back into this world. All because some losers decided they would try to bring these people down for no reason. That action may have affected thousands of people lives. And this is just one example on one little video on one website. Think of all the people in the world, all the people in history who have been discouraged by the naysayers, the judges, the losers who just wanted to bring them down and keep them from pursuing good ideas or spreading of useful information, providing help to others, even changing the world for the better. Haters are the greatest DANGER in existence. DEFEAT HATERS!.NEVER BE JUDGED! DO WHAT YOU WANT WITH YOUR HEAD HELD HIGH, ALWAYS! BE PROUD OF WHO AND WHAT YOU ARE. SEND THEM PACKING!
In reference to your door handle I suggest that you try a shorter screw. Take one screw out to take to the hardware. Locate a nit to match the screw thread. pick a shorter one to match the amount of play in the handle now. You could also put a washer between the inside handle and screw head to effectively draw the play out of the handle. Do the same with the latch screw. Apply tread lock to all the screws to help keep them from backing up.
I'm looking at downsizing my 5th wheel to a much smaller travel trailer (it's just me and my cats). Since your trailer has the aluminum sheeting on the outside instead of fiberglass for its external walls, do you find it gets loud during the rain? I imagine it would sound like my mobile home's metal awning did, which got very loud during strong rain storms.
Amen Brother!!! That's the thing, it's your house on wheels. Like any home improvement, it costs money but you need to do it! I will do it to mine someday too once we can become full-time RV-rs. Composting toilet, Solar energy, both a must. Interested in seeing what you do about water. PS. Mrs... your new hair style looks really great.
If you don't want to get a locksmith to fix your door lock then the following will alleviate the problem: presumably the internal and external locks are held together with male / female screws (if not adapt) fit some 1mm or 1.5mm non-slip neoprene to the inside and outside where the lock sits, test screws for length (dry assembly) when your sure you have the correct length screws apply red Loctite paste (red = strongest) and screw together, trim off surplus neoprene with a sharp utility knife. As for the lock face plate (Strike plate is the one fixed to the jamb) remove screw, purchase slightly bigger diameter screw and then using a hand tap and tread re do the tread on the door, then use a metal counter sink to carefully increase to screw head seat on the face plate, apply Loctite to screw and fix in place. Should take 30 minutes to complete the above once you have all the supplies
A remedy for your door lock. For the screw you can use Loctite (blue) for non permanent assembly and For the lock itself you can use a clear silicon caulking on the outside and inside. If the screw it to long you can uses a screw that is 1/2" shorter.
The other problem is thr construction of thr door. Thin aluminum/foam/thin aluminum. One suggestion is to roll through Elkart Indiana. Rv manufacturing capital. There is many rv material surplus outlets. And rv surplus auction houses. You can shop through hundreds if not thousands of doors and find one that is suitable and better constructed. Or... make ferruls for the screws that hold the inside plate to the outside plate. That way the 2 sides tighten together without squeezing the door and compressing the foam. Causing the latch to just come loose again.
With the door lock on the outside. Have you tried all weather industrial glue on both the inside and outside parts? Screws are good, but glue in an area along with screws can work great. Talking about the screws, go match them up and get the ones that don't rust from Menards or Home Depot. To help with the water, because if you have the rust, there is a water issue, simply use all weather caulking. Use it on the outside part of the door handle. After you have glued it to the door. If glue doesn't work because you may have to remove it to change the batteries or it breaks, try marine grade foam sheets. It will keep water out while helping keep it from moving around as well.
In regards to your door lock issue: Some double-sided tape inside, and a bead of silicone on the outside would help. For the loose screw, try snapping off a toothpick to the needed length and putting it down the screw hole. The screw will butt up against and compress it, giving a good hold and restoring the usefulness of that screw. If the hole is really loose, it may take more than one toothpick (assuming you can't just fit a larger diameter screw through the plate. And a thin layer of silicone or clear nail polish can help prevent corrosion. But sand away the current corrosion before applying. Very cool video! Thanks for sharing.
The keyless entry is an easy fix. take it off and apply a thin layer of silicone. it will keep it in place, water proof it, and if you need to take it off the silicone is pliable and will come off, unlike glue. Great job on all the upgrades. smart choices.
Just came across your video. I am really excited as I am about to install 4 x 100 watt solar on the roof of my tent trailer! I love the passion you both bring to your video and to your projects. Well done.
I'm loving my system. I built my whole system durning the winter months on my king size bed. Mounted everything on a nice board and installed when the weather warmed up in the spring. I watch a number of system builds on UA-cam including yours. One thing I noticed was had no one person mentions the 30% cut in the cost with the tax breaks you get at tax time. I spent about
I know this video was a while ago, but I might have a solution to the keyless lock problem....as far as the movement goes, you could get sticky back rubber tape in about 1/16 or less thickness. Put it around the OUTSIDE plate...because if it's that loose it could be a potential leak...trim it then remount. For the loose screw....use a wooden matchstick...they are soft wood & large enough to fit most screw holes...put some wood glue...yellow glue...on it & pound it into the hole. Let it dry then you could use an awl to start the hole or a small Vixbit, which is a self centering bit. Use a small one...about 5/16...there are several sizes & they come in very handy for a lot of applications. The screw should tighten up nicely now. Hope this helps. I enjoy all your vids...love all your critters.
I am assuming the door is framed with wood....mine is...if not & it is just metal then you might be able to get a larger size screw...with the same diameter of head...you could probably find what you need at fasteners Inc. Or fastenall...or if you have to get one with a larger head, you could counter sink the hole larger to fit the new screw.
Regarding door lock ..use semi permanent thread lock for screw and silicon hidden under lock plates both sides..CLR for rust …enjoy 😅..thin rubber gasket would stop movement as well
The lock can be fixed with polypropylene drawer liner. Find it at hobby shops, cut to size and mount like a gasket to take up play. Then add Silicone around the exterior. 👍
Re: Keyless RV door lock - to keep the top screw of the side plate from backing out, you can apply a small drop of LocTite blue or, if you never want to remove that screw without significant effort, LocTite red. To keep the lock body from moving, you can loosen it and apply a bead of Pro Flex RV caulk (or similar) all the way around on both sides of the hole in the door before reassembling it. Thanks for sharing your RV experiences!
lol. loctite blue: impact drill "this'll make it come out" loctite red: screw tap "i wasn't asking!"
On the auto lock door handle I would run double side tape under it. This will help it from moving or even a bead of silicone. That should help it stop moving. Also if it is moving then it means it doesn’t haven’t a good seal and could possibly leaking inside the door and this could cause the door to de laminate.Thank for the video and if someone already said all this just ignore lol. 1.2k comments I didn’t want to look through them all lol. Good job and I appreciate the videos.
i used to work for a rv place we always but butyl tape between the door and handle
Negative on using silicone caulk on a vehicle.
Silicone caulk hardens; at the first bump, components shift and that bond breaks, requiring a second/third/fifteenth application.
.
2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
For our windows, I used Vulcum 116.
Nearly two decades of rough logger tracks to remote mountain lakes and no-trails to isolated Baja beaches, our Vulcum 116 is soft, pliable, intact.
The best way to avoid crying while cutting an onion is to try not to form an emotional bond first lol
Travis Hagan 😂
LOL But really, the best way to avoid the tears is to store the onions in the fridge or freezer. MUCH better.
IKR! Good one, I'll remember that!😜
I agree.onions have never had a negative affect on my life.
Most underrated comment
My favorite part was Alice crinkling the mini blinds. Haha Reminds me of something my cat would do.
I was confused at 1st as to how you described your cats making the blind noise with their paws. Then I laughed out loud as the cat did exactly how you described. Talented cat. Lol
Almost like the cat is trained
I love watching you both as I get my rig ready. The cat example with the mini blinds was hilarious!! Keep up the good work!
I concur on the thread locker. Use Blue if you want an easier time of removal . And Red if you if you never want to remove the screws. As for the lock set itself wiggling, try some RTV around the perimeter flange and the door.
I built my own 280 Ah 24VDC LiFePO4 batteries for less than $1000 each; I now have three. All you have to do is buy the raw 3.2VDC cells, matched sets in the voltage range you desire, add the BMS (battery management system), bottom balance, and bata bing, we have a battery. Four 3.2 cells in series equal 12.8 volts (a 12-volt battery), add 4 more cells and one has a 24 volt or you can connect two 12 volt batteries in series to make a 24 volt.
Great tips and really liked the reasoning, cost and "would we do it again" explanations. However, perhaps you didn't realize that the shut-off valve on any shower head is supposed to drip even when off! This way you don't accidently leave the hot and cold wall valves open with the valve on the head closed - which could lead to a burst hose (which isn't intended to take constant pressure for the long term) when you are gone causing you to unknowingly lose all of your water. Cheers!
I have the same lock on my fifth wheel and it never wiggled. But on the inside plastic piece I lined the back of it with 3M permanent outdoor double stick tape because I didn't like it flexing when I closed the door from the inside. It made it rock solid, And in your case I bet it would lock it down and stop it from moving. Just an idea.
But me and my wife love the lock, It was a game changer for us. We are full timing with a 3-year-old and being able to drive up to the side of your RV and unlock it with the fob has been awesome. Especially when you have full hands carrying the little guy up the steps or groceries and you're trying to get in fast due to bad weather, This lock has been fantastic!
I was going to say Shim it with a thin piece of wood but that tape is a great Idea.
Fix for your striker plate: go to home depot and buy stainless machine screws and some red locktite. You're welcome.
Id go with blue loc tite. Just incase it needs to be removed
Also, put a bead of caulk around the inside and outside edge of the lock. Once it sets... no wiggly...
Red is a little too permanent for my liking. Blue should hold just fine. If you use red and need to remove it later you might strip the Phillips heads trying to back the screws out.
@@Markomyt1 I would use butyl tape so if it ever needs worked on its an easy sealant to clean off
Also i would glue in a couple tooth picks in the stripped screw hole so no thread locker is needed
Y’all are AWESOME!!! You’re so fortunate that you both have the talent and skills to do the work yourselves!!! So HAPPY for y’all!!! 💕
Hey guys great video.
Door Latch problems fix, first replace all screws with stainless and as mentioned screws may be a bit too long so either get shorter ones or shave the tips off and by all means use lock tight. Also prior to reassembly put a good bead of silicone glue on both in and outside portion of this locking mechanism, this will help not only glue this unit solidly onto the door as well as a waterproof/ draft proof seal.
The both of you have inspired me to not buy a ready made RV instead build one myself using a built to spec 42' goose neck car hauler with 7'-8" of ceiling space to be not only my living quarters but also having the ability to haul my Yamaha Venture motorcycle as well as my Can Am Outlander for off-road explorations. I am getting ready to retire here within the next year and have decided to not stay put in one place for the rest of my life. With over 40 years of working in the construction of homes, commercial spaces as well as industrial I am more than capable of taking on this task. I am in the design stage now with so many ideas dancing in my head like spray foam insulating all walls floor and ceiling as well as rubber undercoating the underside of this trailer. Under flooring heating systems for living areas, dual rooftop AC units, walk-in shower with seating and planing on using 6- 190 watt Go Power panels with 4- Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery's accompanied by an Onan QD 3200 diesel generator to assure I have substantial power to stay off grid for however long as needed. I dig the composting toilet idea for its efficiency and will be using Uponor piping trough out for the absolute assurance of no water leaks ever. Where i'm not too sure yet is tank sizes, was thinking 250 - 350 gal min for fresh water and have no idea for the others. Its just me and two dogs for now, my Jenny passed away way too young from cancer, but life goes on and I look towards living it to its fullest. Any suggestions you can make would be helpful and very grateful.
Once again I want to thank the both of you for your awesome channel and the great work the both of you put into it. I am a long time subscriber to it and look forwards to many more enlightening videos. The two of you are very blessed to be able to live life on your terms. God willing you will be able to continue this for as long as you wish.
Awesome man good on you to have those skills! How did it turn out?
With the intent to be helpful... About the RV Lock and other similar fitting issues (step by steps are on UA-cam by Issue) 1) Filling holes with similar materials and then re-drill (might need to tap if it's a heavy load): I use JB weld for aluminum/steel/other, plastic filler, wood filler and super glue 2) Opening: I use aluminum or wood sheets with strong glues or fasteners (Like, patch door lock area and restart install). 3) Things that rattle or wiggle: Get the right spray foam for the issue and consider it will stop access to the area. I use 'Great Stuff - low expansion' for most fillings.
Hope this is helpful and reading others comment... Aloha
4:45 it doesn't smell that bad, says the guy with a cat litter box next to his bed. lol. Good video though, nice info.
The cats must be wondering why you got a composting toilet instead of kitty litter.LoL . Great video, very informative. Can’t wait to get rid of the banquettes in my camper.
Loved this video. You two are so practical and relatable, but also fun and cute. Thank you for sharing with all of us. Amazing job with the production, editing of your content. Appreciate you.
The cat and the blinds 🤣 DYING! - you said they were constantly in them, but seeing it cracked me up enough to scare 3 sleeping dogs! - We'll be full-time camper living by fall - thank you so much for this video!
door lock, if those are wood screws take it out, dip a couple tooth picks in wood glue, shove them in the hole and break them off. then you have all new wood to put your screw back in. If the screw is metal with cut threads in a metal frame, wrap the screw in foil, enough to get a tight fit, and screw it back in. use silicon calking to stick the lock to the door, waterproof it and keep it from moving. Great channel!
For your lock how about 1/8" rubber membrane you can cut to size as a gasket for both the inside and outside lock faces. Will also keep the door locks from slipping once tightened! Good luck!
This is the best solution and what I was going to post. I would not use glue or silicone, your screws seem to be holding fine but your door is just a little to thin for the lock system. using the 1/8" weather stripping will take up that slack and your lock with fit much better. Not to mention the added benefit of "weather stripping". LOL
That's a good suggestion. Our original locks are always loose too.
Plus put blue Loctite on everything in a camper
If you find screws loosening up take tooth pick break off to fill hole. Squirt some wood glue in. Let that set up a few minutes. Put screws back in. The glue will help bind the tooth pick to the wood and give the screw new material to bite into
Use red lock tight on your screws if you want it fairly permanent. Don't use silicone, or glue. If for some reason you need to remove it. The glue makes a mess. Silicone is inherently slippery. So when it dries. If ever the bond breaks free. It will just make it unscrew a lot quicker.
I love that you learn how to do all this and do it yourself. I do all home construction projects myself and respect that. Not too many can handle that.
Great Job Guys, explaining what you done to your RV. Really enjoyed it.
Replaced rear bunk beds next to rear bathroom in our 2007 Alumalite 32 ft. bunkhouse trailer with an acrylic claw foot slipper bathtub and had enough room at the narrow end of tub on the back wall for a Splendide washer/dryer. Our water heater could heat 10 gal in under 8 minutes, so 20 minutes for almost 30 gal of HOT water.
We also took out our trailers range, (the oven was only good for burning cookies) & put in a FisherPaykel dishwasher drawer and gas cooktop. There are many electric cookers better than the gas oven. Made three years of full time RVing luxurious!
They make a stainless version of the key lock that even uses RFID key fob, the kind like cars that automatically unlocks your door when your within 5’ of the door. They run about $350.
thing about that is, if you're going to answer the door, and you don't know who it is, you don't want it unlocking when you get close.
We have owned 6 RVs and for several of those we put an RVLOCK on. We moved to a MotorHome and it takes a larger lock. We bought the RVLOCK for that and I promise you... we had it or pieces of it replaced 4-5 times!!! I did find a fix... we went to a Baur keypad lock... MUCH MUCH better quality... heavier build.. just better all the way around... like y’all. We love not having to carry keys to go on a walk. The other thing... the Baur locks the deadbolt. Not the other one. Plus one on the oxygenics!! We have ALWAYS changed out the shower head to one of those... thanks for the top on the back flow limiter... can’t believe I haven’t thought about that. A great video. Thanks!!!
When you take the inside plate of the lock off you need to see what the gap is. The lock sounds to be for a different door. You may have to shim the inside of the middle of the lock. Does that make sense ? So when the lock slid in from the outside of the door was it snug meaning it couldn't rotate? If the door lock hole was to big it may need a small wood blink to stop it from rotating from inside the middle of the door. Sorry if I rattled on.
Great Job!!! I have a fix for your keyless door assembly. At the age of 72, I have learned a few things and I would like to share about securing things you never want to move again. (1) to prevent the movement, apply 3M 4000, in your choice of color on the backside of the unit that comes in contact with the door. 3M 4000 is UV resistant and somewhat removable as compared to 3M 5200 which is permanent and (2) Locktite 220 to the threads and reinstall. I believe your biggest issue is with the assembly movement, so when you stabilize the movement, you may be able to skip the Locktite. Make certain you have located the lock assembly where you want it. 3M 4000 is extremely strong and semi permanent. You really don't need to run a full bead around the lock assembly with the 3M 400 and just apply it in the corners and maybe halfway between each corner. I have used 3M 5200 and 4000 for many years as a boater and owning an RV.
For your door lock, install the inside plate with 3M double sided tape. It will stop the movement.
Great advice. I use 3M double sided tape and Velcro (hook & loop) fasteners all the time.
On your keyless lock.
Take 1 striker screw to hardware store get stainless steel replacements.
Get blue locktite thread locker for the screws
Get a roll of dicor tape ( burial tape) to put a seal between lock and outer door skin.
Get a cheap plastic cutting board to make a shim plate for the inside .
The lock: Silicone, stainless steel screw from Home Depot, blue loctite
I kept the original plate and mine is tight. I also replaced my other locks with matching keys..
Yep...I have used doubled sided foam core 3M tape on the inside plate as well. Along with a bead of silicon around the exterior plate.
Skye is right. The blue loctite for your application is the right one. I advise against the red because it normally take heat to remove the screw.
Instead of using silicone, I would use constructive adhesive on both sides. Definitely use the blue locktite on the screws.
@@michaelbowie6599 Thanks for the differentiation! I bought and used the blue, but it was totally by chance!
the solar setup just kept going and going and going. I was chomping at the bit to hear the cost and then the relief of hearing the why. Definitely worth the money in the long run.
FYI, a locksmith can rekey most RV keyholes to a new unused key. I know because I'm a locksmith.
Thats really good to know! Can you make all the locks on the RV the same key too?
@@michellestratford9753 yes, its just changing the pins in all the locks to match, a good locksmith can have a 20 foot camper done in around an hour, some lock types might take a little longer.
@@michellestratford9753 trying to find a locksmith that would do it , theses locks for rvs are like big rigs so many rvs they do have a little difference in teeth shape but not much to where guys are still getting in by jamming keys into it and opening it
This was really helpful. I'm a single middle aged woman picking up my RV on Thursday to go full time, I completely agree with you about solar power and the economic return. There's no way I can afford to pay to camp in plug in campgrounds either😊 Thank you so much!
KOA?
That cat in the window got me rolling
So for the door lock issue. I am alarm technician. I install different style of locks. If you go to Home Depot or Lowe’s. The inside and the outside part that connects locks on Yale locks comes with a little rubber mat that is designed to eliminate those movements.
Take out the mounting screws for your door lock and shorten the screws by cutting them down a little. They may be bottoming out before they fully pinch the door frame tight.
I, too, laughed at the cat and the mini blinds! A universal problem, lol. Don't you two have it going on! I love the creativity you display in creating a home that satisfies your personal desires and fulfills the dream of travel. David ... you remind me of my husband and his creativity with all things electrical. He would have loved to read about your work with the solar panels, extra batteries for storage, etc., it is all really exciting, isn't it!? You have all of this at your fingertips ... the zest for life ... knowledge with which to pursue your dreams ... love for one another ... supportive family. This makes for a good, satisfying life. God bless your endeavors!
All nice upgrades. You have the solar system of my dreams!!!! Spending so much time boondocking, where do you empty your grey tanks and composting toilet??? Thank you.......
The ‘cam’ locks for under rv storage is what I was told share keys with multiple other rv’s... I replaced mine with combo cam locks. I can change the lock whenever and there’s no more keys necessary.
I also have the rv lock that you guys do. I’ve never had a problem and I have one on each of my 3 trailers. Is a nice upgrade I think because no keys are needed for anything... I lose keys, lol. Another reason I like it is because there’s also the keyless remote and a physical key you can use if you choose... keyless remote is nice when my hands are full. Great and helpful video, thanks!
OMG I laughed so hard at the cat and the mini blinds.
I was laughing too. I loved how long they played the clip. :D :D
I did too back when the window shade video was released. LOL
The cat looked like it was trying to send a signal 😁😆
My cats love to swipe the MCD brand day/night shades with their paws. Even with their claws trimmed and dull they can still make enough noise to wake me up, there is a slight texture to the night shade and I'm sure it feels good on their little paws.
I would have got rid of the cats... 😜🐈😺🤣
We put our solar panels on two racks and did not attach them to our trailer. That way we could park the trailer in the shade and place the panels remotely in the sun. We can also adjust the panels for morning/afternoon sun easily as well. Being very careful with the line voltage of the DC power and Ohm's Law, we have our panels set up in combination series/parallel configuration so we do not need heavy power cords back to the trailer and still have a safe DC voltage to work with.
By having our roof clear, we also made a sun shade for the trailer as well. A couple of cheap air mattresses on the roof and a sunshade cover we made keeps the trailer from being an oven, even in the open desert. It works very well. Sunshade material can be purchased all over )Amazon, Lowe's, Etc.) and comes in different colors and weights. Avoid the heavy weight though, it does not breathe as well as the medium or lighter weights and can trap heat more. This is not a waterproof tarp, it is a fabric which will just keep direct sunight from hitting the trailer and will not trap heat under. We actually made some nice tents out of it for group gathering/meals using old Costco frames. Even in the desert, they make life much more pleasurable. Using tan material helps us blend in the desert a bit for more privacy. Haven't made a camo one yet by combining different colots, but it's on the list. The dining tent we made has a tan top and lighter weight dark green for the sides. Black would also be good for the sides - dark colors are easier to see thru than light colors. I have been collecting old frame parts so I can mix-and-match to make a tent larger than the stock 10'X20'. Someone who welds could make some very interesting designs/sizes. Shade cloth is great stuff - especially for dry camping.
you might want to put a 1/8" shim behind the door lock so when you tighten up the screws it will stop the shifting. I love my key less entry!
I cut a spacer out of some 1/8 plastic I found in the shed. Doesn't move at all.
That would have been our recommendation as well!
Maybe shorter screws would be able to tighten up that door lock.
This and maybe a little bit of blue Loctite just to keep the constant slamming from working things loose.
Door lock, remove screw, cut a tooth pick from a board and drive it in then reinsert the screw, a little wood glue wouldn't hurt, but isn't necessary. You want a tight fit with the wood, but don't split the original wood in the door. This works for most all screws in wood
I'm sorry, but I have to say. Ya'll are just ADORABLE. Having said that, thank you for sharing your knowledge :)
That IKEA table is probably my favorite piece of IKEA furniture. I LOVE how it folds up.
I have three of those IKEWA tables in my home, replaced my dining table and have LOVED to space savings.
Best clip, cats and the blinds, hilarious! We love our rv lock, our best upgrade.
You are the second full time RV video I’ve seen that mentions the locks! Thank you! My husband and I will definitely be looking at doing this for our RV. Great information on the upgrades.
Also, which locks did you purchase for your storage doors? We would like to replace those, too.
New lock or no new lock, those doors are so flimsy, a 12 year old can pry open the door in 5 minutes or less.
Thanks for putting this all in one place. Greatly appreciated.
For the door lock, take it back apart and put in spacers to fill any gaps, that will make it solid, reassemble with blue loctite on the screws, and put some silicone behind both pieces, to seal it up and help hold it in place.
Excellent upgrades, David is one heck of a handyman/technician.
Straightforward, no BS information. Thank you.
Another excellent video. The cats with the blinds was hilarious!
Yeah, who needs cat toys?
It was a bad day for the cats when he removed it.
Not sure if you have found the solution for the RVLock yet but it is pretty easy. The problem is your door is slightly too thin for the supplied screws/bolts. Get a couple of nuts from hardware store and thread them onto the screw/bolt then cut off or use a grinder to take off just 1/16 inch and then when you screw off the bolt it will fix the thread. Try tightening them back together and see if it clamps it tighter. If still a little lose then repeat just taking off tiny bits. That is for the 4 screws on the inside. For the striker plate go to Lowes or HD and find matching screws in stainless steel to replace.
Instead of replacing the brick (mattress) that comes in the RV I would consider a high quality topper. Kohls has them. Much cheaper, a little lighter weight and very comfortable.
That's what I did and it's almost better than my regular bed. So comfy and cheaper than buying an entire new mattress. Easier to move as well.
I had to consider weight, so replaced my mattress with a nice air mattress. Had to put a topper underneath as well as on top to keep the cold temp away, but it's worked well. Deeper than my old mattress.
The previous owners of our RV installed a residential deadbolt lock above the factory installed lock and handle. Voila, you have better security for a reasonable price. I totally agree with the new locks on the basement doors. We did that on our rig as well. Nothing is forever. Not even a stick and brick house. One day you might get tired on the road or want to upgrade. We would love solar but we aren't full time and as you pointed out, extremely expensive. We do have a generator, however.
I have to admit that David is a very smart man to be able to do all of these upgrades himself. Great to see a man that can still work with his hands. Creative thought went into some of the upgrades. Great job.
Its not that rare here in the south that's the way we're raised around here we call it jack of all trades i can do just about anything and if i don't know about something ill do my research and learn it
Perhaps LED lights are standard now. But, they save a BUNCH on power drain when boondocking. A switch to isolate the coach battery at night from the tow vehicle battery has saved us from many dead truck batteries the next morning. Learning how to repair/replace your RV equipment is a must when boondocking and when avoiding the hassle of waiting for and paying professional installers. Thanks to UA-cam, learning how to accomplish these tasks has become a lot easier.
Jenni, love your new haircut, you're looking great girl! David, you lucky dog!!!
Jerry Brady I was thinking the same thing! I’ll just come out and say it again...cute haircut and cute face!
Gr8 video.
I agree with Wade and loctite "BLUE." In order to eliminate lock rotation, I would use 3M 4200 Silicone Marine Adhesive. After alcohol cleaning both door and lock mating surfaces, apply a thin layer on lock outer perimeter edges. Warning: Don't use 3M 5200 as it won't come apart in the future if you want to replace the lock in the future. 🤪
Cheers, Eric
5:51 Back in my younger days ,I can remember hugging the toilet after hoisting a few too many.
Making love with the toilet.
Dude I litterally burst out laughing at this comment 😂
There are 3 things you can do to fix your RV lock:
1. Remove, sand and paint the "striker plate" with gloss paint or automotive wheel clearcoat.
2. Cut the offending screw down that does not screw in tight enough, a small amount, then chase the threads for easy installation
3. Put Bostik industrial adhesive sealant underneath the lock faceplates (the inside and outside parts which have the buttons on it outside and handles on it inside), just a dab in a few places will do ya. You must let this dry under no load for at least 24 hours on high vibration joints. You are effectivly glueing the lock assembly to the door. Make sure to align it correctly and keep it aligned while the adhesive sets
4. (BONUS) use blue thread locker on all fasteners on re-assembly
Loc-tite for your lock screws could help. If the screws are still sloppy, a more permanent solution my be a drop of construction adhesive.
Shims too
Also nail polish on that one screw that keeps loosening. Paint the threads then s res in & let dry. Works great!
For the bed lift mechanism, replace the long bolts sticking through with shorter ones. It will be $3 well spent if you don’t tear a sleeve (or arm) on it.
My favorite was the desk upgrade. I watched that video and was impressed. I know how much you two like boondocking, which is fine since you're young (when I started out RV ing that's what I did). I crunched the same numbers, 300 days at an average of $30 is $9,000 a year. My lifetime Thousand Trails membership was $7,645! I only pay $39.17 per month in dues, and I've already paid off my membership and used it enough in one year to justify the initial amount. I still boondock, and if I'm in an area where there are no Thousand Trails I don't feel bad having to pay to stay outside the TT network knowing that I'll eventually be camping for $39.17 a month back with TT. Except for the Vegas TT, they have some very nice properties with friendly staff, activities, pools, laundry rooms, hiking trails, etc.
most of those membership areas are based on available space... lot of them get full by full timers/ long timers and no space available for the time you want... like timeshare fails
I replaced my key with that same type of electronic entry and have no wiggles and no problems. Huge upgrade to the conventional lock. I would do it again and recommend it to anyone looking to camp more than just on weekends.
Hey folks! So, about the RV door lock... The trick to the installation (and in this case), correcting it... You have to make sure to create a gasket/seal for the housing to door area. In my case, I also had to re-cut the shape of the housing, by a little bit, and create a gasket. The process doesn't take long, as you can create a gasket from all kinds of seal products. I recommend using the sealant/gasket on the door lock first, and then on the door second. I found that using a rubber-based sealant gasket works excellent. Let the sealant dry on the lock side first, so that you have a hard gasket to work with, and make sure that it is evenly set first. THEN, use the second application (door side) and then do all steps as normal.
If you do it properly? You won't have anymore slippage problems, and you will have a weatherproof seal that will make you and your home happy for years to come!
As an RV sales person, these are some of the DOPEST upgrades I have ever seen! Congrats to you guys living what is now basically the american dream! When you're ready to upgrade to that MONTANA let me know! I've got the BEST prices in the country!
Or maybe you want to go Airstream! I've got those too!
RV lock put a bead of caulking around the edge and don't slam the door like a car door. Close the door like you are sneaking out. Keep in mind locks are only for honest people anybody with a crowbar can open a RV in seconds.
Also to make the screw get tight. Put a wooden tooth pick in the hole first.put screw back in and should tighten right up.
I'm a lock /safe guy just replace your striker screws with longer and slightly wider width along with outdoor commercial loctite or similar sticking substance and use that substance on the interior contact points. This will result in a perfect like new fit 🙏
The one way valve on the hot water heater is a fantastic tip! Thank you for sharing.
yes a great one.
Very informative, enjoyed each item and the details you went through. Also appreciated the refreshing lack of "upspeak". Having viewed 40-50 videos in the last week it's great that you're not following the crowd and making every single sentence a question. Thank you.
I have owned alot of TT over the years, I have never found one with all of the upgrades that I want. Nice job to both of you. 👍👌❤🇨🇦
Haha yep, sometimes you've just got to do it yourself!
Since this video has nearly 1600 comments, I'm sure others have suggested this, but maybe not. You can use some weatherstripping to sit between the door and the lock flange (on the inside) to tighten it, and some blue Loctite on the striker plate screws to keep them in place.
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Use locktite on the screws on your door. They make two formulas, one for screws you plan on taking off and one that's for screws that are permanent. It'll stop your screws from coming loose. To stop the wiggling you might try a dab of construction adhesive between the lockface and the door.
Had you tested the WEBOOST to the booster you have? I need one of these! :)
You can get Better screws at any hardware store for the rust and it looks like you could drill another hole to the LEFT outside edge on the inside of the door/lock to keep it from moving up and down...?
Locktite is great for the screws. Make a gasket out of thin rubber or similar gasket material to take up any space between the lock mechanism and the door. That will allow you to tighten it up.
𝕋𝕙𝕖 𝕤𝕔𝕣𝕖𝕨𝕤 𝕠𝕟 𝕪𝕠𝕦𝕣 𝕕𝕠𝕠𝕣- 𝕙𝕒𝕧𝕖 𝕪𝕠𝕦 𝕝𝕠𝕠𝕜𝕖𝕕 𝕚𝕟𝕥𝕠 𝕤𝕙𝕠𝕣𝕥𝕖𝕣 𝕤𝕔𝕣𝕖𝕨𝕤 𝕠𝕣 𝕒𝕕𝕕𝕚𝕟𝕘 𝕨𝕒𝕤𝕙𝕙𝕖𝕣𝕤 𝕤𝕠 𝕥𝕙𝕒𝕥 𝕪𝕠𝕦 𝕔𝕠𝕦𝕝𝕕 𝕥𝕚𝕘𝕙𝕥𝕖𝕟
Please forgive if already commented, but for the lock issues:
1). Use “Loctite” threadlocker to keep the screws from rattling loose. Just don’t use the maximum strength “red” version, which is more permanent.
2). Replace the zinc screws with stainless steel screws, which aren’t nearly prone to rust as much. I hope this helps! (if not already solved).
I was looking for the loctite comment, knew there had to be one.
I would argue to say Loctite 242, blue medium strength is more than adequate and you won't have to destroy fasteners to remove them again. Red loctite often require heating the fasteners to remove them in the future, which would destroy things on the RV itself. For reference, loctite 242 is used to hold gun sights on. There's significant impulse to the recoil of a pistol, and the sight posts stay on tight. It should be adequate for an RV.
The stock shower heads don't leak when off. They are made to drip to keep from being scalded when you turn the water back on.
Remove each screw, fill the hole with wooden toothpicks with glue on each and then put the screw back in will keep screws tight. Can remove both faceplate covers to put a bead of sealant on the inside edge will seal and hold door lock in place. Wiping off any sealant that squeezes out or running a bead around the outside edge will hold it in place. Painting the striker plate will stop rusting.
Great video, I'm still at a loss as to why anyone would actually dislike this.
Because so many people in this world are jealous of anyone who is generally happy with their life and instead of trying to take a lesson they want to tear them down and rain on their parade in any way they can. They are usually born losers that are too afraid to improve their station in life because they don't think they have what it takes so they want to bring others down to the level they are on. A level where shame, failure, negativity, hatred, atheism and depression rules and ambition, motivation, positivity, spirituality, hope and accomplishment have no place. NEVER ever let anyone else tell you what you can't do, what you won't do, what you're not allowed to do, or judge your work, your lifestyle, your choices, or your beliefs in any way. NOBODY and I mean NOBODY, family, friends, bosses, no human is qualified or has the right to judge you or discourage you. Do what you feel is RIGHT in your heart and always listen to that little voice inside we all have. It always speaks the truth, 100% of the time. The problem is most people have such loud external influences that drown out the sound of that voice and that is where unhappiness and bad decisions creep in, it's where the cycle of what we call "bad luck" starts, but there's no such thing. There are only decisions, and the wrong people can influence those decisions, such as a thumbs down on a great video you made. What if a few thumbs down and a few rude comments were the first ratings they received on this video? If they were easily influenced by that they may have taken it down, thinking it was no good, ashamed and embarrassed. Think if that happened the thousands of people that wouldn't get the benefit of watching this video full of useful information. There may have been thousands of mistakes by would be RV owners because they missed this video, and thousands of frustrating situations, and a lot of despair and negative energy sent back into this world. All because some losers decided they would try to bring these people down for no reason. That action may have affected thousands of people lives. And this is just one example on one little video on one website. Think of all the people in the world, all the people in history who have been discouraged by the naysayers, the judges, the losers who just wanted to bring them down and keep them from pursuing good ideas or spreading of useful information, providing help to others, even changing the world for the better. Haters are the greatest DANGER in existence. DEFEAT HATERS!.NEVER BE JUDGED! DO WHAT YOU WANT WITH YOUR HEAD HELD HIGH, ALWAYS! BE PROUD OF WHO AND WHAT YOU ARE. SEND THEM PACKING!
In reference to your door handle I suggest that you try a shorter screw. Take one screw out to take to the hardware. Locate a nit to match the screw thread. pick a shorter one to match the amount of play in the handle now. You could also put a washer between the inside handle and screw head to effectively draw the play out of the handle. Do the same with the latch screw. Apply tread lock to all the screws to help keep them from backing up.
I'm looking at downsizing my 5th wheel to a much smaller travel trailer (it's just me and my cats). Since your trailer has the aluminum sheeting on the outside instead of fiberglass for its external walls, do you find it gets loud during the rain? I imagine it would sound like my mobile home's metal awning did, which got very loud during strong rain storms.
Amen Brother!!! That's the thing, it's your house on wheels. Like any home improvement, it costs money but you need to do it! I will do it to mine someday too once we can become full-time RV-rs. Composting toilet, Solar energy, both a must. Interested in seeing what you do about water. PS. Mrs... your new hair style looks really great.
That vent cover really doesn't cost that much, and you can leave your vent open when its raining. Wait till its on sale for around $30.
Arthur Lapalme I installed one on mine and it allows me to drive with vent open, leave vent open at all times.
If you don't want to get a locksmith to fix your door lock then the following will alleviate the problem: presumably the internal and external locks are held together with male / female screws (if not adapt) fit some 1mm or 1.5mm non-slip neoprene to the inside and outside where the lock sits, test screws for length (dry assembly) when your sure you have the correct length screws apply red Loctite paste (red = strongest) and screw together, trim off surplus neoprene with a sharp utility knife.
As for the lock face plate (Strike plate is the one fixed to the jamb) remove screw, purchase slightly bigger diameter screw and then using a hand tap and tread re do the tread on the door, then use a metal counter sink to carefully increase to screw head seat on the face plate, apply Loctite to screw and fix in place.
Should take 30 minutes to complete the above once you have all the supplies
The cat playing with the blinds killed me 😂😂😂😂. So funny
A remedy for your door lock. For the screw you can use Loctite (blue) for non permanent assembly and For the lock itself you can use a clear silicon caulking on the outside and inside. If the screw it to long you can uses a screw that is 1/2" shorter.
the door lock----take inside off and shim under mechanism so it doesn't move--- the outside screw-- use "lock tite"
I was gonna say that too. Put a little shim or a thin washer along with a little bit of weatherproof silicone, and some blue loctite.(thread locker)
But be sure to source your stainless steel striker plate first. :)
The other problem is thr construction of thr door. Thin aluminum/foam/thin aluminum. One suggestion is to roll through Elkart Indiana. Rv manufacturing capital. There is many rv material surplus outlets. And rv surplus auction houses. You can shop through hundreds if not thousands of doors and find one that is suitable and better constructed. Or... make ferruls for the screws that hold the inside plate to the outside plate. That way the 2 sides tighten together without squeezing the door and compressing the foam. Causing the latch to just come loose again.
With the door lock on the outside. Have you tried all weather industrial glue on both the inside and outside parts? Screws are good, but glue in an area along with screws can work great. Talking about the screws, go match them up and get the ones that don't rust from Menards or Home Depot. To help with the water, because if you have the rust, there is a water issue, simply use all weather caulking. Use it on the outside part of the door handle. After you have glued it to the door. If glue doesn't work because you may have to remove it to change the batteries or it breaks, try marine grade foam sheets. It will keep water out while helping keep it from moving around as well.
I run the onion under water and it never emits the gas that makes you cry. Works every time.
In regards to your door lock issue: Some double-sided tape inside, and a bead of silicone on the outside would help. For the loose screw, try snapping off a toothpick to the needed length and putting it down the screw hole. The screw will butt up against and compress it, giving a good hold and restoring the usefulness of that screw. If the hole is really loose, it may take more than one toothpick (assuming you can't just fit a larger diameter screw through the plate. And a thin layer of silicone or clear nail polish can help prevent corrosion. But sand away the current corrosion before applying. Very cool video! Thanks for sharing.
Have you tried replacing the RV lock screws with shorter stainless ones?
The keyless entry is an easy fix. take it off and apply a thin layer of silicone. it will keep it in place, water proof it, and if you need to take it off the silicone is pliable and will come off, unlike glue. Great job on all the upgrades. smart choices.
OMG The cat and the blinds! LOL!
Just came across your video. I am really excited as I am about to install 4 x 100 watt solar on the roof of my tent trailer! I love the passion you both bring to your video and to your projects. Well done.
I'm loving my system. I built my whole system durning the winter months on my king size bed. Mounted everything on a nice board and installed when the weather warmed up in the spring. I watch a number of system builds on UA-cam including yours. One thing I noticed was had no one person mentions the 30% cut in the cost with the tax breaks you get at tax time. I spent about
Your table rework is chefs kiss.
I laughed out loud at the cat on the shade!
I know this video was a while ago, but I might have a solution to the keyless lock problem....as far as the movement goes, you could get sticky back rubber tape in about 1/16 or less thickness. Put it around the OUTSIDE plate...because if it's that loose it could be a potential leak...trim it then remount.
For the loose screw....use a wooden matchstick...they are soft wood & large enough to fit most screw holes...put some wood glue...yellow glue...on it & pound it into the hole. Let it dry then you could use an awl to start the hole or a small Vixbit, which is a self centering bit. Use a small one...about 5/16...there are several sizes & they come in very handy for a lot of applications. The screw should tighten up nicely now.
Hope this helps. I enjoy all your vids...love all your critters.
I am assuming the door is framed with wood....mine is...if not & it is just metal then you might be able to get a larger size screw...with the same diameter of head...you could probably find what you need at fasteners Inc. Or fastenall...or if you have to get one with a larger head, you could counter sink the hole larger to fit the new screw.
Was it worth watching this video?
Absolutely! - I would (and probably will) watch it again! :)
Thanks!
Regarding door lock ..use semi permanent thread lock for screw and silicon hidden under lock plates both sides..CLR for rust …enjoy 😅..thin rubber gasket would stop movement as well
3:58 You have a much closer relationship with your toilet than I do. Snuggley.
The lock can be fixed with polypropylene drawer liner. Find it at hobby shops, cut to size and mount like a gasket to take up play. Then add Silicone around the exterior. 👍