Tip of the day...whenever you are cutting a bolt to a new length, thread the appropriate nut on PRIOR to cutting. This makes chasing the threads easier, if you happen to get a big burr on the first thread.
Our man is not sleeping, some progress:) Huh, so there's a budget and upgrade benefit on that VW bolts, nice. Yeah well like you said, that cover is torqued 15 times, without special tool, and is inevitable for them to strip..half of them were stripped on mine and I thought it's just a oil cap seal leaking:P So I rigged up my own tool out of old spark plugs, and I guess with a little caution&patience, they will not strip. But man, with that level of details and rechecking, this engine can't do nothing but run like hell! Very comforting and great learning experience with some great tips. And don't forget to talk about your crank ventilation setup;) I think that oil pan bolts, everything over 20Nm is overkill Nice ocd paint over JB weld:)
Ha! I was wondering if someone would notice the paint over the JB weld... What JB weld now... I dont see any😁 I will try to remember to show some details on the crank ventilation. Its very basic, but it also works very well.
@@SimplyVolvo Hahahaha right, I mean, nice shaved whiteblock:) Well, venting theme is pretty beat up in Volvo world, and many guys struggled with it.I ended up doing my own setup as well, still testing..I guess it's kinda easier to set it up on a race car, but still..since we've made it until here, might as well show us everything:)
@@z_855turboR Ill give a quick explination. Basically I tapped out the stock turbo drain port to 1/2" NPT and fitted a 10AN bung. I used the stock 850 crankcase separator on the front, but the tube that runs to the stock PTC on the intake pipe I drilled out a big hole... and yep you guessed it JB welded a 1" piece of tube which then connects to a 1" 90 degree silicone elbow which has a 3/4 NPT to 10AN adapter. Both of those lines go to a big 3 filter catch can where the factory air box goes. I did have 2 10AN on the valve cover with baffles (you can see the baffles on the inside of this cam cover) in this video, but they would puke oil from the big cams and I concluded they caused a low pressure in the head and high pressure in the block which reduced oil draining back from the head to the block. So far I havent had an ventilatin issues. In my dyno pull videos you can see some gases coming out of the 3 filters on the catch can but not a lot because I run a my ring gap on the lower side. .020" top and .022" bottom. You can get away with tighter gaps on E85 engines.
Haha nice, I barely stuck 1" pipe below stock intake Yes I was studying videos like a hawk, and was thinking originally-if I only remembered to design a baffle when the cover was down..but you still had oil puke? Jesus.. So you are saying, you completely eliminated cam cover vents now? Was thinking about that also, but was scared that seals would explode.
Vida says to use spark plug holes 2 and 4 when using the cam carrier tool. And if you dont wanna scratch your paint again, insert the screws that hold your top plastic cover down. If you need info. Ive been rebulding those the last 2 years, and my co workers have been repairing volvos seince the 80s. Greetings from greensburg pa!
Before this I searched the VIDA literature and others high and low. None specifically stated what cylinders to use and all of the pictures showed 1 and 5.
@@unklebuck1239 It would seem more logical to use 2 and 4 as that basically puts 1 press tool between each cylinder, but im not sure... sometimes Volvo does things for certain reasons without explanation in VIDA.
The volvo diesel motors use a similar torque sequence and grade 10.9 bolts. I really like the sequence Volvo uses. Step one: 20nm Step two: loosen Step three: 20nm Step four: 50nm Step five: 90° Step six: 90°
Hey could I use the s60r head gasket on a 850 n engine or would i need to drill holes in that case as well. It also be cool if you made a video of where to drill the mls gaskets to fit a rn block on a n head, unless you already made that video and im just an idiot.
I was wondering since I’m going to be installing an intake manifold spacer to reduce engine heat going into my intake (I have a non turbo 1999 engine) and was curious if I could clean out the PCV flame trap and top hose and ports and that would help prolong the life of the PCV. I doesn’t fail the glove test. I have a tiny bit of seepage of oil from the oil cap but none is pooling on the head of the engine so could cleaning the top hose and flame trap be useful or do I have other spots that I also need to clean that would cause it to possibly clog in the future? I did clean the drain port when I did the o-rings in the oil pan so that should be decently clean.
What happend that your block cracked? Just started following since im converting my 850R from aut to m66 awd. Not gonna go insane on power. Roughly 400 is the target
A common issue with these blocks is the use of ARP studs which can crack the water jacket. A more in depth explanation is found in my other video here : ua-cam.com/video/9MzgLNcn8C8/v-deo.html
@@SimplyVolvo i'll go and watch it. My car had a cracked block when i bought it. Someone didnt clean the hole for the headbolts. But that block was scrap.
The automatic transmission awd right axle is still available which is the only one I can get here anyway in the US because we never got any Manual AWD P80s.
I dropped off my head and cover at local shop to have it bead blasted and valve job. When i picked it up was surprised it was bead blasted and painted already.🤙🏻
Well its a gen1 they also came with a T5, so should be feasible if you had a donor. Would probably need to transfer all of the electronics too. The issue with the T5 XC90 is the transmission are horrible and break with stock torque.
I ended up breaking a couple bolts trying to reach 48nm, then I calculated the bouts will start yielding at 30nm, and never reach 48nm before they break completely. Volvo isn't always right it seems...
If I want a t5 built, what would you charge? I don't want anything as extreme. I would be happy with about 400HP or so. What's your contact info if this is something you are interested in. Thanks.
At the moment I dont do any work for other people. I dont have the time with working a full time job, a part-time job and doing my own personal Volvo stuff.
@@SimplyVolvo Just through a price at me good enough so that you don't have to work the part-time job and see if I can handle it. LOL let me know. I'm in MD and I'm not in a rush, I'll bring the car out and take your time. I do understand though if you can't. my email is handymanhired (at) gmail. com if you want to chat about it.
The amount of brake clean I go through is frightening. Ive gone through about 20 cans on this project so far. Gotta love the walmart supertech special. $2 a can!
Big thanks to Joe as always for the tips on the head bolts. Make sure to checkout his channel here : ua-cam.com/channels/TV0YKfX3HX0eV0DK16XXBQ.html
Tip of the day...whenever you are cutting a bolt to a new length, thread the appropriate nut on PRIOR to cutting. This makes chasing the threads easier, if you happen to get a big burr on the first thread.
Our man is not sleeping, some progress:)
Huh, so there's a budget and upgrade benefit on that VW bolts, nice.
Yeah well like you said, that cover is torqued 15 times, without special tool, and is inevitable for them to strip..half of them were stripped on mine and I thought it's just a oil cap seal leaking:P So I rigged up my own tool out of old spark plugs, and I guess with a little caution&patience, they will not strip.
But man, with that level of details and rechecking, this engine can't do nothing but run like hell! Very comforting and great learning experience with some great tips.
And don't forget to talk about your crank ventilation setup;)
I think that oil pan bolts, everything over 20Nm is overkill
Nice ocd paint over JB weld:)
Ha! I was wondering if someone would notice the paint over the JB weld... What JB weld now... I dont see any😁 I will try to remember to show some details on the crank ventilation. Its very basic, but it also works very well.
@@SimplyVolvo Hahahaha right, I mean, nice shaved whiteblock:)
Well, venting theme is pretty beat up in Volvo world, and many guys struggled with it.I ended up doing my own setup as well, still testing..I guess it's kinda easier to set it up on a race car, but still..since we've made it until here, might as well show us everything:)
@@z_855turboR Ill give a quick explination. Basically I tapped out the stock turbo drain port to 1/2" NPT and fitted a 10AN bung. I used the stock 850 crankcase separator on the front, but the tube that runs to the stock PTC on the intake pipe I drilled out a big hole... and yep you guessed it JB welded a 1" piece of tube which then connects to a 1" 90 degree silicone elbow which has a 3/4 NPT to 10AN adapter. Both of those lines go to a big 3 filter catch can where the factory air box goes. I did have 2 10AN on the valve cover with baffles (you can see the baffles on the inside of this cam cover) in this video, but they would puke oil from the big cams and I concluded they caused a low pressure in the head and high pressure in the block which reduced oil draining back from the head to the block. So far I havent had an ventilatin issues. In my dyno pull videos you can see some gases coming out of the 3 filters on the catch can but not a lot because I run a my ring gap on the lower side. .020" top and .022" bottom. You can get away with tighter gaps on E85 engines.
Haha nice, I barely stuck 1" pipe below stock intake
Yes I was studying videos like a hawk, and was thinking originally-if I only remembered to design a baffle when the cover was down..but you still had oil puke? Jesus..
So you are saying, you completely eliminated cam cover vents now? Was thinking about that also, but was scared that seals would explode.
I've only started watching, but putting that nut on the head bolt before cutting helps to chase the thread when you remove the nut from the bolt.
Thats a good idea too!
That's the technique I always use, sometimes the thread is so squished after cutting you can't get a nut on.
5 star upload. Great content! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words!
Vida says to use spark plug holes 2 and 4 when using the cam carrier tool. And if you dont wanna scratch your paint again, insert the screws that hold your top plastic cover down. If you need info. Ive been rebulding those the last 2 years, and my co workers have been repairing volvos seince the 80s. Greetings from greensburg pa!
Before this I searched the VIDA literature and others high and low. None specifically stated what cylinders to use and all of the pictures showed 1 and 5.
Stand corrected.
Just the way i was told i guess. To prevent bowing in the center
@@unklebuck1239 It would seem more logical to use 2 and 4 as that basically puts 1 press tool between each cylinder, but im not sure... sometimes Volvo does things for certain reasons without explanation in VIDA.
FYI, I use paint remover or gasket remover for the cam cover sealant, works great for me.
Ill have to try that. Ive been trying to find a solvent for the cam cover and I bet paint thinner like you said works very well.
@@SimplyVolvo Not paint thinner, paint remover.
This makes me want to fix up me 04 s60 😩 great stuff man
Fantastic video as always Matt. 😀
Wow great video! It's nice to see this stuff
Glad you enjoyed it!
The volvo diesel motors use a similar torque sequence and grade 10.9 bolts. I really like the sequence Volvo uses.
Step one: 20nm
Step two: loosen
Step three: 20nm
Step four: 50nm
Step five: 90°
Step six: 90°
Great information as usual!
Was this build of the 2.5T worth all you efforts in the end….are you happy with it? Everything you wanted it to be?
How did u put the sleeves in the block? are those elevate sleeves?
I F#@kin love this! more and more please. straight up tuning!
Hey could I use the s60r head gasket on a 850 n engine or would i need to drill holes in that case as well. It also be cool if you made a video of where to drill the mls gaskets to fit a rn block on a n head, unless you already made that video and im just an idiot.
What sealant did you decide to use on the oil pan and the top camshaft cover? Was it Loctite 515?
Whats the benefits of dual oil filler necks?
I explained it in the video. Just to be able to set the cam timing through the oil filler holes on the intake and exhaust cam.
SimplyVolvo yes i see that. Somehow i missed that the first time
I was wondering since I’m going to be installing an intake manifold spacer to reduce engine heat going into my intake (I have a non turbo 1999 engine) and was curious if I could clean out the PCV flame trap and top hose and ports and that would help prolong the life of the PCV. I doesn’t fail the glove test. I have a tiny bit of seepage of oil from the oil cap but none is pooling on the head of the engine so could cleaning the top hose and flame trap be useful or do I have other spots that I also need to clean that would cause it to possibly clog in the future? I did clean the drain port when I did the o-rings in the oil pan so that should be decently clean.
What happend that your block cracked? Just started following since im converting my 850R from aut to m66 awd. Not gonna go insane on power. Roughly 400 is the target
A common issue with these blocks is the use of ARP studs which can crack the water jacket. A more in depth explanation is found in my other video here : ua-cam.com/video/9MzgLNcn8C8/v-deo.html
@@SimplyVolvo i'll go and watch it.
My car had a cracked block when i bought it. Someone didnt clean the hole for the headbolts. But that block was scrap.
Right axle for a P80 AWD manual with the 36mm nut is no longer available.
The automatic transmission awd right axle is still available which is the only one I can get here anyway in the US because we never got any Manual AWD P80s.
Hahah..... "show car man" 😜. Next to "stacking dimes" the funniest thing..... As always.... Excellent content.
😆😆
What paint do you use for the valve cover? And do you mask off the bolt hole surfaces so it doesn't mess up the paint?
Duplicolor Engine Enamel.
I dropped off my head and cover at local shop to have it bead blasted and valve job. When i picked it up was surprised it was bead blasted and painted already.🤙🏻
How hard do you think it would be to swap a t5 into a xc90 that came with a 3.2
Well its a gen1 they also came with a T5, so should be feasible if you had a donor. Would probably need to transfer all of the electronics too. The issue with the T5 XC90 is the transmission are horrible and break with stock torque.
Hey Matt, do you have a link to that poly engine mount at 13:24?
mpre.se
I ended up breaking a couple bolts trying to reach 48nm, then I calculated the bouts will start yielding at 30nm, and never reach 48nm before they break completely. Volvo isn't always right it seems...
Maybe its a typo or something in VIDA, but no way 48nm can be reached. 20-25nm on all bolts is definitely plenty.
Is that headgasket for a p2 engine or p80?
It is a MLS head gasket for a P2 S60R.
👍👍👍👍👍
Why do TDC on cyl 3 and not 1?
I explained it in the video... so that I can use a dial gauge indicator through the oil filler caps to set the cam timing via lift @ TRUE TDC.
If I want a t5 built, what would you charge? I don't want anything as extreme. I would be happy with about 400HP or so. What's your contact info if this is something you are interested in. Thanks.
At the moment I dont do any work for other people. I dont have the time with working a full time job, a part-time job and doing my own personal Volvo stuff.
@@SimplyVolvo Just through a price at me good enough so that you don't have to work the part-time job and see if I can handle it. LOL let me know. I'm in MD and I'm not in a rush, I'll bring the car out and take your time. I do understand though if you can't. my email is handymanhired (at) gmail. com if you want to chat about it.
how did you find thos data from vida ?
You need to get a copy of VIDA.
anyone else recognize the music at 23:45? lmaooo
Brake clean, a mans product... I always Helicoil exhaust side, always .
The amount of brake clean I go through is frightening. Ive gone through about 20 cans on this project so far. Gotta love the walmart supertech special. $2 a can!
@@SimplyVolvo I use Masters or Johnson's and I have five cases ready at all time... 20 cans is conservative.
@@hunterharison Guess I gotta step my game up then 😛
Not a fan of Volvo's cam cover design!