P2 XC70 2007 owner here! THANK YOU FOR THE FUEL SYSTEM description. I have been chasing a P0089 fault for 9 months, replacing everything except the pump. About to change the pump (with help). Wish me luck!
Hey, im wondering if it worth it to buy p2 volvo? Im basically dont know anything about maintenance? Does it really expensive and does it need it expensive? I only know to change oil. Please tell me ur experience....
@@2crackhead6 I think it's definitely worth owning if you don't mind doing the repairs yourself:, what's nice is that FCP euro has done videos on almost every repair that those cars need, so you wouldn't be on ur own! Before buying the car though, you have to make sure that it's at least in decent shape or else you'll have a lot of extra work to do: here's some criticals to check for before buying: timing belt (so important), PCV system (check it via glove test), check for leaks & that electricals in the car aren't funky. I'd say these cars require some more attention than Hondas and Toyotas, but if maintained right, they can outlast them!
R owner here with 276k miles on it, I’ve done a lot of these recommended repairs, more than others because it did fail. All I can say is, take care of the Moose, and the Moose will run happy.
I can't believe I've been working on cars for so long and never thought of tying a string to the fuel sender hose. Came here for Volvo tips and left with a super useful other tip, I love FCP these guys are real pros!
I had idling issues with my 2007 V70. After some research, I decided to grab a can of Throttle Clearer at NAPA. I removed the ETB from the intake manifold and sprayed the crap out of it. I was very very dirty. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor with a the special cleaner for that too. One or both did the trick … It has been well over 100k miles since doing that and not issues.
I think changing the fuel filter is very important on Volvos. Every P2 I've ever changed the fuel filter on had black oily looking gas in it. The car wont even act like anything is wrong but that gas cant be good for the engine. I feel like they are rarely changed likely because the diagnostic tool says something else like maybe a bad MAF. Thats probably the first thing anyone should do on their Volvo if they are unsure if its been chaged, because chances are its the original filter. It's probably the easiest thing you can do on these cars and they are cheap like $30 or less. That's just my opinion though.
Some later P2's made gor the California market have fuel filters built into the pump, non serviceable. Have to wait until the pump fails. My 2007 V70 base is like that.
I got a 2005 XC90 back in 2023 and it was the original filter. All rusty and almost cracking, thanks to the Canadian salty winter roads. I also found the exact same black oily gas you’ve mentioned, so I know exactly what you’re referring to!
Towards the end where he talks about having to get the throttle body flashed with new firmware...it maybe a thing but I did take a TB from a T6 XC90 and put it on a T5 XC90 with no issues. Great info on all of the other P2 issues that every owner will be faced with.
i have 2 v70n bi-fuel models. 340.000 miles an the other 270.000 miles. engines where never opened. they have the factory fuelpumps, throttlebody's (with the white sticker),VVT pully,thermostat,PCV valve's. only things replaced are coils and 1 coolant themp sensor. i just love them. greets from the netherlands
@Johnny Blue 540.000km and430.000km . Pcv's are in exelent shape. Bi fuel doesn't have carbon. My oil goes from yellow to light brown. Both engines use 1 ltr oil on 20.000km.
Great overview video, and have replaced many of these systems on my various Swedish P2 Hjoopties. I'm now getting a persistent P0302 code (2002 V70 X/C with 2.4 low pressure turbo, 175K mi) that came on suddenly last week, and swapping out the plugs, coil, and fuel injectors doesn't fix it, and I have good electrical power and connections to the injectors and coils; and it's making a pretty noticeable tapping sound from the vicinity of #2 cylinder that is really noticeable when the oil fill cap is removed. I've heard that a part of the PVC plumbing, a little v-shaped vacuum check valve pipe that connects with a banjo bolt to the underside of the intake manifold and which connects via hoses to the thermostat housing, the oil box, the main PVC hose and to a vacuum line, which, if it fails, will allow a small check valve ball and spring to get sucked down into the oil box and up into the breather hose to the top of the valve cover, and into the head of #2 cylinder, and which then gets stuck in the head or the valve, causing the tapping and the intermittent P0302 misfire code. Now that I have the intake manifold off and have visually inspected the PVC hose and components, I do see that it is all in need of replacement, which of course I will buy from FCPEuro!, but I wonder if I should also pull the valve covers off and inspect the intake cam shaft and lifters, or even pull the head and visually inspect the valves and see if there is indeed debris from the failed PVC system rattling around in the head before I replace the PVC components and put the intake manifold on and put it all together again. I have snaked a magnet down into #2 head via the spark plug port, the FI port, and the intake manifold port, but haven't caught anything with it. Anyone ever have the same problem? I'd appreciate any insights.Thanks! And please keep these videos coming, guys!
Can you explain why some of Volvos got vvt on intake only, some on exhaust only and some on both of the cams. What's the reason behind these different solutions.
Great vid. I had the coil harness plastic all dry and crack, wire insulation melted and shorted together and caused crazy misfiring...the coil harness I believe coil 3, bends the wires so aggressively, that's where they wore through. Was an easy fix but hard to spot at first, had already pulled all coils and plugs to test. Also, having the transmission hard shifting issues showing up, but read one comment about someone who said it only showed up on 1/4 tank or less, so I filled mine full and all rough gear change symptoms are gone... 2007 XC70
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. If I may, a question. I am dealing with a 640A code on a B5244S non-turbo engine with one intake phaser only. I replaced an open-circuited Cam Reset Valve, which was showing no movement on scan tool. I now have movement of the phaser. BUT the Actual Cam Angle, as per the scantool measurement, is consistently about half of the Desired Cam Angle called for by the PCM. I understand that the 640A can set if the Cam Angle varions is greater than 10deg for more than 15sec? I am suspecting the phaser hub is binding or for some reason not fully actuating?? Possibly, this caused failure of the Cam Reset Valve windings as the PCM continues to try to full phase the cam by holding a maximum Pulse Width Modulation, maybe overloading windings over time. Wondering what your overall thoughts are on this??
Thanks for the informative video. I have three XC90's that I maintain. The PCV system is a pain in the butt -- as you say working on it is "kind of a process"!
Very informative! I've recently acquired an xc90 2.4 D5 awd and it tends to decide when it would start and when not to. It cranks at times, starts and many times it just sounds clicks from the relays. Do you guys have any experience with the error message "Start prevented please try again" which shows on the dashboard? I've checked all relays and fuses, there's only 1 key, I've tried the lock and unlock sequence, replacing batteries both in the fob and car itself and the issue remains. Waiting on a diagnostic to be in the next day or so but thought I'll reach out in Case someone has experience with this.
A couple of things you didn't mention the fuel filter at about 96,000 km should be changed. And if changing the fuel pump access is from top of tank via lifting out the back seat. And a special tool is needed to remove retaining cover over the pump.
The P2 PCV system is the biggest antagonist to what could have been a beautiful engine. The idea could have been salvaged by Volvo acknowledging the flaw and correct it with properly designed parts and also sell the parts at reasonable price. Currently, buying the 'flawed' PCV parts is as painful as getting poison ivy. The labor to get the job done is just as bad. The electronic throttle body is another pain in the butt! I've learnt not to trust Xemodex for one as a replacement. I would either bite the bullet and buy a brand new one or get a used one from a yard. Turbo model to turbo model. N/A to N/A would be fine without software for my experience. Whatever it is, i would steer clear from Xemodex at all cost. This has been an excellent video Bravo FCP! Buying from FCP makes a lot of sense.
Another fantastic video guys, looking forward to seeing more! After watching this video I checked my VVT intake solenoid as recommend and the resistance was only 3-5ohms, this is at 146,000 miles. Also checked fuel pressure and it was at just over 50psi.
2000 s80 t6.270bhp originally but now slightly modded .twin cat back stainless custom escape.51000 miles and so far only problems were the throttle body needed cleaning.top mount replacing.a couple of rubber pipes .i gotta pain in the arse water leak from the top hose which is getting to the point of hose and radiator replacing due to the age.all in all its my second ever Volvo but not unimpressed with it.engine will go good in a hearse me thinks.
I have a p2 xc70 2005 with 132XXX miles that has bad engine shaking lost of power and fuel economy and this problem worsens when the a/c is being used. I've read this all could be because of the coils and plugs needed replacing. All the plugs were replaced with volvo plugs and 3 coils thought to be bad were replace and this is still happening. Im hoping replacing the last 2 coils will solve my issues. Is this all that can cause those symptoms or am I being to optimistic??
Is your statement true at 2:42 that the RN engine comes with a forged crank and forged rods from the factory? On all RN engines not just the "R" engines? Block down are these engines all the same it's in the head, turbo, injectors and tune that the LPT engine is different from the HPT engines?
It's amazing how there is a familiarity to the sound of a Volvo engine as it idles, even over different engine designs. I have been driving Volvos since 1970. Also, are Volvo dealership service departments willing to provide technical information for the DIY market these days? The last time I needed a part number for a 90's vintage 740 motor and I called the nearest Volvo dealership, the guy who answered the phone in the parts department just said: "Can't help you."
Excellent video as usual. I have been a FCP customer for around 20 yrs! I won't go anywhere else for my Volvo parts. I wish you would carry Subaru parts though. How about a concise Vida tutorial. I need to learn more about the advanced functions.
The PCV BOX comes in 2 different types...Are they interchangeable??? I have 2004 non turbo, this is not a rocket science to solve but I prefer an after market even if I have to do the plumbing to which it would be easier to clean the box...
Hi, I have a quick question. I recently got an 05 Xc90 from my Dad. He didn’t want to deal with the repairs that needed to be done on this vehicle. That being said I recently replaced the fuel module and the fuel pressure sensor on it. It run nice for a day and then it began to burn the fuel pump fuse and it’s driving me crazy because I don’t have a clue what is causing this problem. Please help!
I have a regular V70, no particular version but it's very reliable. It's around 210,000 miles (approx conversion). The brake lights are janky (not lighting up when braking but the top works perfectly) and the inner rearview mirror is loose.
Use nothing but Full Synthetic motor oil, Do not let the engine idle for long periods, avoid short drives and let the engine fully heat up each and every time you drive it. Do oil changes with a filter ~ 5,000 or less.
@@richardpflieger2049 5000 miles or less ? Doesn't the manual recommends 7500 or 10,000 with synthetic oil ? when you say let engine fully heat up...I assume you mean while driving it, not sitting in place for it to warm up or revving it? Thank you.
@@AB-hx9hs the Volvo service schedule is designed for your car to fall apart after 100k miles. Oil is one of the easiest fluids to replace, yet one of the most critical that if neglected will cause very expensive problems. If you drive your car the following way: - lots of stop and go traffic - frequent, short trips - driving in areas with a lot of pollution (basically anywhere that isn't the open, rural country) Driving this way (the way the vast majority of people drive) is considered a "severe" driving condition, and therefore requires more frequent maintenance. Compare the Volvo service schedule with a Toyota one; Toyota recommends more frequent oil changes (especially under the "severe" driving conditions, which is basically everyone), and also recommends more frequent changes of every fluid. If you're asking yourself "what does Toyota have to do with Volvo?", just take a look at your Volvo's transmission: it's made by Aisin-Warner (now Aisin- Seiki), a transmission manufacturer owned by..... Toyota! The transmission in your Volvo is basically a Toyota transmission! And now compare the transmission fluid service schedule: Volvo says " check/adjust fluid", and that the fluid is "fill for life". Toyota recommends regular transmission fluid changes. No transmission fluid is "fill for life", and what following the Volvo schedule will do is cause your transmission to fail somewhere between 100-200k miles. In summary, read the Volvo service schedule, laugh, and throw it away. Consult with a good, honest mechanic about proper maintenance schedules for all of the fluids/ filters/ etc, and make your own schedule; do this and you will see that your Volvo will easily make it to 300k miles and beyond with almost no costly repairs
I have Volvo s60 2.4 petrol, 170hp, 230000km, 2001 yrs. Bought cheap, 750 euros.. Nice design, comfortable seats, great engine sound, decent acceleration! But have some major issues: 1. check engine light is on with report 'emissies service vereist'. 2. steering wheel hydraulic pump have noise, 3. front wheel bearing very loud when driving.. planing to change i hope soon..
I recently got a cheap Volvo with apparently blown engine. The old owner went through 3 seals and they always failed after 2-3 months. PCV was completely clogged so I got that car, replaced all seals on the engine, replaced the PCV and it was running fine. But I have another question, before deciding to potentially die because of how boring the car is on the interior, I was looking at a 2002 C Class with some 2.2l gasoline engine. It was driving fine, no issues with acceleration but then I was checking how the engine runs. I removed the oil filling cap and it began spitting oil from the engine. Was that also something to do with similar system to the PCV or was that some more serious issue. I never seen something like that before but the engine oil itself didn't contain any coolant or anything else according to my small engine oil quick test kit
Hi on my 2002 Volvo V70 I replaced the rear crank seal transmission end but when I torqued up my flywheel bolts it rotated clockwise I didn't think much of it but when I reassembled the car I started it up and it only ran for 7 second,s and it stopped Suddenly like the cambelt had snapped but the belt was tight and the tenchoner was tight and i turned the engine over and I've no compression and I then removed my timing belt and the Intake Cam feels very loose it pulls out very easily does this happen to V70,s mine is a 2.4 non turbo take care
They don't have diesel engines in the P2 chassis in the states so I don't think we will get any. Check our SiRobb's youtube channel for info about those.
You can clean some of the components such as the air oil separator box, however the hoses and lines that get hard and brittle after time should be replaced. If you can replace the components, its best to in order to avoid doing this job again in the near future.
My high-mileage B5244T3 suffers from stalling while idling, uneven idle and uneven power under acceleration. When I disconnect the exhaust valve solenoid the idle problem goes away and acceleration is better, but the car still shuts off rarely on idle. I'm guessing I need to clean/change the solenoid and something else too?
Starting with the solenoid would be good, if it's getting a bad reading (which you can assume because the porblem is solved when its disconncted), once that's fixed you can move down the diagnostic tree from there is other problems persist
@@ThunderbirdRocket We had to change the throttle body, but the dealership had to reprogram the computer because it would not start after changing it. It runs great now. It was my wife’s car, 6 months ago she bought a 2024 Subaru and gave the car to her dad. He drive it 80 miles per day for work and has had no issues. We also changed the timing belt when we changed the throttle body.
Volvo says timing belt change interval= 112000 miles or180000km, and it can do easy do 100000 mile or 160000km, but indeed the idler pulley is the weakest point not the tensioner. I have changed the timing belt 3 times, 2 times on my previous s60 and 1time on my current s60
Hello, is it safe to drive a 2001 Volvo S60 non-turbo with a replaced throttle body, without it being programmed? Will the car be damaged? Thanks love your videos
The torx 27 valve at the end of the fuel rail... what exactly does that do. I think i cut off fuel supply somehow. I have new pump and new sensor and im not getting any fuel at rail.
Can you do a video explains the “R” I have a v70r and would love to know more of the history. I use to have a 850r also so would love to learn more! Even maybe go into how r design and r are completely different so people finally stop saying they have a r when they don’t 😂
That could be caused by a number of things. One possibility is simply oil spilling into the spark plug valley when topping the car up with oil, another possibility is the oil cap seal itself is bad causing oil to drip down into the spark plug valley. Also, check the health of your PCV system by doing the glove test as shown in this video. Is the car running well still?
Really helpfull video! Mine is a 99' 2.4 NA 2.4 S80 with AW auto gearbox. Got it with 90k Km. Idlle goes to stall once the engine is warm, when I release the throtleit wil go down to 200rpm and even stall. Can't locate the problem. Oil was bad due to loong time (not miles) between changes. Crank case presure is ok. I'm going nuts
Please do a video on the engine oil light coming on with oil full mystery that plagues the 2.4 engine in older model cars. Oil sending unit renewed does nothing. Cleaning oil pick up and o rings does nothing….
Good video, but you forgot to mention probably the biggest flaw of these whiteblocks; the oil O-rings between the oil pan and the lower block. They tend to deform and this will cause an oil pressure loss (and will ruin your engine)
Sealing between oil pan and lower block is accomplished with anaerobic sealant which lasts a very long time from the factory. Perhaps you mean the oil cooler o-rings which fit to the pan?
Did the problem always start with the cabin lights coming on and the "left rear door open" message appearing, and in warmer weather/ with the heater on? If so, it is most likely the CEM overheating. There is a company called Xemodex that will take the CEM apart and solder in some heat sinks
The most notorious T5 engine in my opinion more reliable then the updated p2 2.4 T5 With practically the same power. Plus it was used in the p80 gen v70 and before that the 850.
Owned my R for 6 years but still learned a couple things from this video. FCP is the best.
You're the best Tristan! Glad you were able to pick a few things up in this video. Enjoy your R!
P2 XC70 2007 owner here! THANK YOU FOR THE FUEL SYSTEM description. I have been chasing a P0089 fault for 9 months, replacing everything except the pump. About to change the pump (with help). Wish me luck!
Happy to help, Ike! Good luck!
Did your problem go away after replacing the fuel pump? What else did you change that did not work?
P2 S60 owner here. Love the content, as I always do work on my own car. Appreciate what you guys do!
Keep on wrenchin Sam Abbad,
Hey, im wondering if it worth it to buy p2 volvo? Im basically dont know anything about maintenance? Does it really expensive and does it need it expensive? I only know to change oil. Please tell me ur experience....
@@2crackhead6 I think it's definitely worth owning if you don't mind doing the repairs yourself:, what's nice is that FCP euro has done videos on almost every repair that those cars need, so you wouldn't be on ur own! Before buying the car though, you have to make sure that it's at least in decent shape or else you'll have a lot of extra work to do: here's some criticals to check for before buying: timing belt (so important), PCV system (check it via glove test), check for leaks & that electricals in the car aren't funky. I'd say these cars require some more attention than Hondas and Toyotas, but if maintained right, they can outlast them!
@@samabbad5112 aight imma keep tht in mind thanx
Volvo cars of the P2 platform are quite well built so that they are easy to repair on your own with little experience
R owner here with 276k miles on it, I’ve done a lot of these recommended repairs, more than others because it did fail. All I can say is, take care of the Moose, and the Moose will run happy.
I can't believe I've been working on cars for so long and never thought of tying a string to the fuel sender hose. Came here for Volvo tips and left with a super useful other tip, I love FCP these guys are real pros!
Learn new tips and tricks all the time!
It's stuff like this that makes me want to buy all my parts from you guys... you guys rock thanks again!
You rock MeanderingRios we genuinely appreciate your support!
I had idling issues with my 2007 V70. After some research, I decided to grab a can of Throttle Clearer at NAPA. I removed the ETB from the intake manifold and sprayed the crap out of it. I was very very dirty. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor with a the special cleaner for that too. One or both did the trick … It has been well over 100k miles since doing that and not issues.
I think changing the fuel filter is very important on Volvos. Every P2 I've ever changed the fuel filter on had black oily looking gas in it. The car wont even act like anything is wrong but that gas cant be good for the engine. I feel like they are rarely changed likely because the diagnostic tool says something else like maybe a bad MAF. Thats probably the first thing anyone should do on their Volvo if they are unsure if its been chaged, because chances are its the original filter. It's probably the easiest thing you can do on these cars and they are cheap like $30 or less. That's just my opinion though.
Definitely something to look into! Fuel filter is great do as part of your regular maintenance
Some later P2's made gor the California market have fuel filters built into the pump, non serviceable. Have to wait until the pump fails. My 2007 V70 base is like that.
Your opinion is correct. My dad has a 2005 s60 with 154k miles and I realized it probably still had the original fuel filter and promptly changed it.
I got a 2005 XC90 back in 2023 and it was the original filter. All rusty and almost cracking, thanks to the Canadian salty winter roads. I also found the exact same black oily gas you’ve mentioned, so I know exactly what you’re referring to!
Towards the end where he talks about having to get the throttle body flashed with new firmware...it maybe a thing but I did take a TB from a T6 XC90 and put it on a T5 XC90 with no issues. Great info on all of the other P2 issues that every owner will be faced with.
Good to know Barry!
I wish you had a warehouse in Europe, because your assortment is better than what we have in Sweden.
i have 2 v70n bi-fuel models. 340.000 miles an the other 270.000 miles. engines where never opened. they have the factory fuelpumps, throttlebody's (with the white sticker),VVT pully,thermostat,PCV valve's. only things replaced are coils and 1 coolant themp sensor.
i just love them.
greets from the netherlands
@Johnny Blue 540.000km and430.000km . Pcv's are in exelent shape. Bi fuel doesn't have carbon. My oil goes from yellow to light brown. Both engines use 1 ltr oil on 20.000km.
@Johnny Blue i hope for you your car last to a million kilometers. they are the best cars ever built in my opinion. volvo for life :)
Outstanding video, every P2 owner should watch this!
We hope all current and future p2 owners find it helpful!
Great overview video, and have replaced many of these systems on my various Swedish P2 Hjoopties. I'm now getting a persistent P0302 code (2002 V70 X/C with 2.4 low pressure turbo, 175K mi) that came on suddenly last week, and swapping out the plugs, coil, and fuel injectors doesn't fix it, and I have good electrical power and connections to the injectors and coils; and it's making a pretty noticeable tapping sound from the vicinity of #2 cylinder that is really noticeable when the oil fill cap is removed. I've heard that a part of the PVC plumbing, a little v-shaped vacuum check valve pipe that connects with a banjo bolt to the underside of the intake manifold and which connects via hoses to the thermostat housing, the oil box, the main PVC hose and to a vacuum line, which, if it fails, will allow a small check valve ball and spring to get sucked down into the oil box and up into the breather hose to the top of the valve cover, and into the head of #2 cylinder, and which then gets stuck in the head or the valve, causing the tapping and the intermittent P0302 misfire code. Now that I have the intake manifold off and have visually inspected the PVC hose and components, I do see that it is all in need of replacement, which of course I will buy from FCPEuro!, but I wonder if I should also pull the valve covers off and inspect the intake cam shaft and lifters, or even pull the head and visually inspect the valves and see if there is indeed debris from the failed PVC system rattling around in the head before I replace the PVC components and put the intake manifold on and put it all together again. I have snaked a magnet down into #2 head via the spark plug port, the FI port, and the intake manifold port, but haven't caught anything with it. Anyone ever have the same problem? I'd appreciate any insights.Thanks! And please keep these videos coming, guys!
Thank You FCP Euro for the informative P2 videos keep them coming .
You're welcome, Christian. More to come!
Can you explain why some of Volvos got vvt on intake only, some on exhaust only and some on both of the cams. What's the reason behind these different solutions.
Thanks for the video. Everything is simple and great!
Now, we're waiting for the similar video about B6294T engine )))
Thank you for this video. I always try to buy parts from FCP so I can fund these videos.
You're very welcome, Elliot. Thank you for the support, we'll keep the videos coming!
Great vid.
I had the coil harness plastic all dry and crack, wire insulation melted and shorted together and caused crazy misfiring...the coil harness I believe coil 3, bends the wires so aggressively, that's where they wore through. Was an easy fix but hard to spot at first, had already pulled all coils and plugs to test.
Also, having the transmission hard shifting issues showing up, but read one comment about someone who said it only showed up on 1/4 tank or less, so I filled mine full and all rough gear change symptoms are gone... 2007 XC70
broken wires are some of the hardest issues to diag for sure!
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. If I may, a question. I am dealing with a 640A code on a B5244S non-turbo engine with one intake phaser only. I replaced an open-circuited Cam Reset Valve, which was showing no movement on scan tool. I now have movement of the phaser. BUT the Actual Cam Angle, as per the scantool measurement, is consistently about half of the Desired Cam Angle called for by the PCM. I understand that the 640A can set if the Cam Angle varions is greater than 10deg for more than 15sec? I am suspecting the phaser hub is binding or for some reason not fully actuating?? Possibly, this caused failure of the Cam Reset Valve windings as the PCM continues to try to full phase the cam by holding a maximum Pulse Width Modulation, maybe overloading windings over time. Wondering what your overall thoughts are on this??
Thanks for the informative video. I have three XC90's that I maintain. The PCV system is a pain in the butt -- as you say working on it is "kind of a process"!
It is a process, but worth it to drive such a wonderful and safe machine!
Very informative! I've recently acquired an xc90 2.4 D5 awd and it tends to decide when it would start and when not to. It cranks at times, starts and many times it just sounds clicks from the relays. Do you guys have any experience with the error message "Start prevented please try again" which shows on the dashboard? I've checked all relays and fuses, there's only 1 key, I've tried the lock and unlock sequence, replacing batteries both in the fob and car itself and the issue remains. Waiting on a diagnostic to be in the next day or so but thought I'll reach out in Case someone has experience with this.
Is there a great video like this for the P1 models ? ( like 2008 C30 T5 )
A suspension discussion would be helpful, too. Thanks! Great work!
A couple of things you didn't mention the fuel filter at about 96,000 km should be changed. And if changing the fuel pump access is from top of tank via lifting out the back seat. And a special tool is needed to remove retaining cover over the pump.
Good point, Paul. Thanks!
Great info. Im going to mention ABS Modules which will need to be replaced eventually.
The P2 PCV system is the biggest antagonist to what could have been a beautiful engine. The idea could have been salvaged by Volvo acknowledging the flaw and correct it with properly designed parts and also sell the parts at reasonable price. Currently, buying the 'flawed' PCV parts is as painful as getting poison ivy. The labor to get the job done is just as bad.
The electronic throttle body is another pain in the butt! I've learnt not to trust Xemodex for one as a replacement. I would either bite the bullet and buy a brand new one or get a used one from a yard. Turbo model to turbo model. N/A to N/A would be fine without software for my experience. Whatever it is, i would steer clear from Xemodex at all cost.
This has been an excellent video Bravo FCP! Buying from FCP makes a lot of sense.
Agree on electronic throttle module. Had two '02 V70s, and both needed new modules. $$$
5:56 we have found a great replacement seal from a specialized o-ring company
What’s the link to that green o-ring part? Any videos to link to it?
Here you go! Can be found by searching cam seal when on FCPEuro.com.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-vvt-hub-o-ring-aftermarket-9497786s
Another fantastic video guys, looking forward to seeing more!
After watching this video I checked my VVT intake solenoid as recommend and the resistance was only 3-5ohms, this is at 146,000 miles.
Also checked fuel pressure and it was at just over 50psi.
Thank you BigBlueChopper! Stay tuned for more! Are you getting any codes for VVT operation?
@@fcpeuro Nope, I have no engine codes at all.
Awesome video, thank you for making this!
2000 s80 t6.270bhp originally but now slightly modded .twin cat back stainless custom escape.51000 miles and so far only problems were the throttle body needed cleaning.top mount replacing.a couple of rubber pipes .i gotta pain in the arse water leak from the top hose which is getting to the point of hose and radiator replacing due to the age.all in all its my second ever Volvo but not unimpressed with it.engine will go good in a hearse me thinks.
A great engine indeed! Just keep an eye on the transmission on that T6!
I have a p2 xc70 2005 with 132XXX miles that has bad engine shaking lost of power and fuel economy and this problem worsens when the a/c is being used. I've read this all could be because of the coils and plugs needed replacing. All the plugs were replaced with volvo plugs and 3 coils thought to be bad were replace and this is still happening. Im hoping replacing the last 2 coils will solve my issues. Is this all that can cause those symptoms or am I being to optimistic??
'07 VR here. If you own a P2, change your oil religiously, and you can avoid a lot of the PCV issues.
clean oil certainly helps with the sludge!
@@fcpeuro Good for a happy turbo too.
Can you make a similar video about p3 chassis volvos? We would really appreciate that. Thank you!
We plan on it!
Awesome detailed engine overview. Thanks a lots. Volvo for a life)
Glad you liked it!
Is your statement true at 2:42 that the RN engine comes with a forged crank and forged rods from the factory? On all RN engines not just the "R" engines? Block down are these engines all the same it's in the head, turbo, injectors and tune that the LPT engine is different from the HPT engines?
Yes but also different size turbo and compression ratio. If you have a manual still for your car, it states the differences 😊
It's amazing how there is a familiarity to the sound of a Volvo engine as it idles, even over different engine designs. I have been driving Volvos since 1970.
Also, are Volvo dealership service departments willing to provide technical information for the DIY market these days? The last time I needed a part number for a 90's vintage 740 motor and I called the nearest Volvo dealership, the guy who answered the phone in the parts department just said: "Can't help you."
No. Volvo dont issue out parts numbers unless they dont manufacture it any more
We need these kind of videos for the D5 engines!! : )
If only we could get our hands on a D5 here in the united states!
Excellent video as usual. I have been a FCP customer for around 20 yrs! I won't go anywhere else for my Volvo parts. I wish you would carry Subaru parts though. How about a concise Vida tutorial. I need to learn more about the advanced functions.
we can definitely look into that, its tough because it's not a tool most DIYer's have available to them
The PCV BOX comes in 2 different types...Are they interchangeable???
I have 2004 non turbo, this is not a rocket science to solve but I prefer an after market even if I have to do the plumbing to which it would be easier to clean the box...
If you are willing to be creative with the plumbing you can probably make it work, but its always best to use the correct part!
7:49 FYI they are oil galleries not galleys.
Great and informative video!
Glad you thought so Max!
Hi, I have a quick question.
I recently got an 05 Xc90 from my Dad. He didn’t want to deal with the repairs that needed to be done on this vehicle. That being said I recently replaced the fuel module and the fuel pressure sensor on it. It run nice for a day and then it began to burn the fuel pump fuse and it’s driving me crazy because I don’t have a clue what is causing this problem. Please help!
I had a crack in my coolant reservoir cap. The bottle would boil after shut down. Replaced with a new cap and all is back to normal.
I have a regular V70, no particular version but it's very reliable. It's around 210,000 miles (approx conversion). The brake lights are janky (not lighting up when braking but the top works perfectly) and the inner rearview mirror is loose.
The wiring at the tailgate hinge may be severed. It can cause other tailgate issues
Great presentation and helpful information
So how do you prevent the PCV system from clogging in the first place ? Thank you.
Use nothing but Full Synthetic motor oil, Do not let the engine idle for long periods, avoid short drives and let the engine fully heat up each and every time you drive it. Do oil changes with a filter ~ 5,000 or less.
@@richardpflieger2049 5000 miles or less ? Doesn't the manual recommends 7500 or 10,000 with synthetic oil ? when you say let engine fully heat up...I assume you mean while driving it, not sitting in place for it to warm up or revving it? Thank you.
@@AB-hx9hs the Volvo service schedule is designed for your car to fall apart after 100k miles. Oil is one of the easiest fluids to replace, yet one of the most critical that if neglected will cause very expensive problems. If you drive your car the following way:
- lots of stop and go traffic
- frequent, short trips
- driving in areas with a lot of pollution (basically anywhere that isn't the open, rural country)
Driving this way (the way the vast majority of people drive) is considered a "severe" driving condition, and therefore requires more frequent maintenance. Compare the Volvo service schedule with a Toyota one; Toyota recommends more frequent oil changes (especially under the "severe" driving conditions, which is basically everyone), and also recommends more frequent changes of every fluid. If you're asking yourself "what does Toyota have to do with Volvo?", just take a look at your Volvo's transmission: it's made by Aisin-Warner (now Aisin- Seiki), a transmission manufacturer owned by..... Toyota! The transmission in your Volvo is basically a Toyota transmission! And now compare the transmission fluid service schedule: Volvo says " check/adjust fluid", and that the fluid is "fill for life". Toyota recommends regular transmission fluid changes. No transmission fluid is "fill for life", and what following the Volvo schedule will do is cause your transmission to fail somewhere between 100-200k miles.
In summary, read the Volvo service schedule, laugh, and throw it away. Consult with a good, honest mechanic about proper maintenance schedules for all of the fluids/ filters/ etc, and make your own schedule; do this and you will see that your Volvo will easily make it to 300k miles and beyond with almost no costly repairs
can you please show me how to replace the batteries of remote key for Volvo 2007 S80
What... No mention of the redheaded stepchild? Also known as 2.9L T6!! Thanks! 🤔
Great video!! Which there was something like this for every vehicle I own
Glad you liked it!!
Glad to see that Adam has found greener pastures after eEuroparts went bust.
sometimes the grass truly is greener 😂
Are there any known issues regarding the oil circuit. The oil pressure light, and things like the oil pump and the pickup in the oil pan
you can get fuel pressure reading from obd
I have Volvo s60 2.4 petrol, 170hp, 230000km, 2001 yrs. Bought cheap, 750 euros.. Nice design, comfortable seats, great engine sound, decent acceleration! But have some major issues: 1. check engine light is on with report 'emissies service vereist'. 2. steering wheel hydraulic pump have noise, 3. front wheel bearing very loud when driving.. planing to change i hope soon..
Excellent information.
I recently got a cheap Volvo with apparently blown engine. The old owner went through 3 seals and they always failed after 2-3 months.
PCV was completely clogged so I got that car, replaced all seals on the engine, replaced the PCV and it was running fine.
But I have another question, before deciding to potentially die because of how boring the car is on the interior, I was looking at a 2002 C Class with some 2.2l gasoline engine. It was driving fine, no issues with acceleration but then I was checking how the engine runs. I removed the oil filling cap and it began spitting oil from the engine. Was that also something to do with similar system to the PCV or was that some more serious issue.
I never seen something like that before but the engine oil itself didn't contain any coolant or anything else according to my small engine oil quick test kit
Love this video just wish for the parts used in this video could of dropped some part numbers on small print.
Good idea Luis Lopez, they can vary depending on year for some things but I've linked a bunch of the parts in the description for you!
I love these kinds of videos. I would also really like to see the p1 engines as well
We hope to make on for P1 as well!
Yes. P1 engines were used in the P3 cars as well.
Any chance theres going to be one regarding the B8444S?
Hi on my 2002 Volvo V70 I replaced the rear crank seal transmission end but when I torqued up my flywheel bolts it rotated clockwise I didn't think much of it but when I reassembled the car I started it up and it only ran for 7 second,s and it stopped Suddenly like the cambelt had snapped but the belt was tight and the tenchoner was tight and i turned the engine over and I've no compression and I then removed my timing belt and the Intake Cam feels very loose it pulls out very easily does this happen to V70,s mine is a 2.4 non turbo take care
That fuel computer can also be redirected towards the inside as I did it’s a bit of a hassle but possible.
Later model P2's have the PEM computer module in the trunk. My 07 S60 has this feature.
Great stuff! Congrats on the initiative! Any material planned for the diesel engines?
They don't have diesel engines in the P2 chassis in the states so I don't think we will get any.
Check our SiRobb's youtube channel for info about those.
Is it possible to clean the PCV system without replacing almost all parts?
You can clean some of the components such as the air oil separator box, however the hoses and lines that get hard and brittle after time should be replaced. If you can replace the components, its best to in order to avoid doing this job again in the near future.
My high-mileage B5244T3 suffers from stalling while idling, uneven idle and uneven power under acceleration. When I disconnect the exhaust valve solenoid the idle problem goes away and acceleration is better, but the car still shuts off rarely on idle. I'm guessing I need to clean/change the solenoid and something else too?
Starting with the solenoid would be good, if it's getting a bad reading (which you can assume because the porblem is solved when its disconncted), once that's fixed you can move down the diagnostic tree from there is other problems persist
I have a 2007 s60r that shuts down when stopping, but only later in the day. Did you find a fix for your issue?
@@Romanlegion1990
Hello , might you be able to share what the problem was with your car ? And what the fix was ? Any help is much appreciated .
@@ThunderbirdRocket We had to change the throttle body, but the dealership had to reprogram the computer because it would not start after changing it. It runs great now. It was my wife’s car, 6 months ago she bought a 2024 Subaru and gave the car to her dad. He drive it 80 miles per day for work and has had no issues. We also changed the timing belt when we changed the throttle body.
@@Romanlegion1990
Hello ! Thanks for sharing your time and experience with the car !! Much appreciated . Super helpful ! 👊🏼
Awesome video thank you for making it!
You're very welcome, Vas! Glad you like it!
V70 T5 - B5234T3 engine please🙏
really need closed tutorial
Great video, will you be showing the P3 some love soon?
We plan on it!
Volvo says timing belt change interval= 112000 miles or180000km, and it can do easy do 100000 mile or 160000km, but indeed the idler pulley is the weakest point not the tensioner.
I have changed the timing belt 3 times, 2 times on my previous s60 and 1time on my current s60
It never hurts to do it slightly earlier than the Volvo recommended as preventative maintenance to avoid waiting for it to actually fail!
Nice ! Would you do a overview of the V8 ?
Would love to see this as well!
We can definitely do that!
Hello, is it safe to drive a 2001 Volvo S60 non-turbo with a replaced throttle body, without it being programmed? Will the car be damaged? Thanks love your videos
Great content! Thanks!
Do one for the D5 :)
11:50 If you're good with soldering I'm sure you can crack open the assembly.
no the battery leaks and ruins it. could replace battery but it has a weird voltage, 3.7V or something
The torx 27 valve at the end of the fuel rail... what exactly does that do. I think i cut off fuel supply somehow. I have new pump and new sensor and im not getting any fuel at rail.
Volvo tech Rock Star,
i am having trouble finding fuel pressure sensor on my non turbo 2002 volvo s60...it seems not to be there
Did S80 have returnless fuel system ?
Did I miss the section on potential oil leak locations?
i dont know what the P2 engine is, is it the T5 that came in the 850 and later generation or those he mean the straight 6 that came in the 960?
ua-cam.com/video/DuVEikQtRic/v-deo.html This should help clarify any questions like that you may have!
Can you do a video explains the “R” I have a v70r and would love to know more of the history. I use to have a 850r also so would love to learn more! Even maybe go into how r design and r are completely different so people finally stop saying they have a r when they don’t 😂
We plan to dive into our two in house S60r and V70r a bit more in the near future, so stay tuned!
It's reeeealy easy to read that history online
P80 buyers guide would be awesome! Don’t need one for the redblocks cause they are pretty much fool proof
Jacob would be into that.
I got a 2001 volvo v70 xc turbo... when i did the saprk plugs a i found the spark plugs has a lot of oil...
That could be caused by a number of things. One possibility is simply oil spilling into the spark plug valley when topping the car up with oil, another possibility is the oil cap seal itself is bad causing oil to drip down into the spark plug valley. Also, check the health of your PCV system by doing the glove test as shown in this video. Is the car running well still?
I try to do that thanks
excellent
Really helpfull video! Mine is a 99' 2.4 NA 2.4 S80 with AW auto gearbox. Got it with 90k Km. Idlle goes to stall once the engine is warm, when I release the throtleit wil go down to 200rpm and even stall. Can't locate the problem. Oil was bad due to loong time (not miles) between changes. Crank case presure is ok.
I'm going nuts
Glad you found the video helpful, Andrei! Have you checked the spark plugs?
Is this ALL the common fail engine items for the P2 RN engines ? Anything else ?
I love these Volvos but I'm glad I drive a SAAB.
Please do a video on the engine oil light coming on with oil full mystery that plagues the 2.4 engine in older model cars. Oil sending unit renewed does nothing. Cleaning oil pick up and o rings does nothing….
Great vid but can we have a diesel version of this video for 2010 + cars v/xc40 s/xc60 v/xc 70 s80 xc90
Wait I thought the 2005 Volvo s60r is non interference engine so that doesn't apply if that is a issue with the valves clashing with the piston?
Great engine, IS interference. If you do pulley, pump, and belt by 80-100k miles, you should be good.
Can you tell me details on my volvo s60 t5 its a 2.3L petrol turbo I believe is this engine good??
Yes it's probably the best choice of engine.
Looking forward to a P3 version of this
Good timing! We are currently filming P3 content and that video will be shot soon!
So are these things the same for 2.4D?
The Diesel engine is a bit different.
Can you Swap a V70 High Pressure Engine into a 2006 2.5T XC90?
Good video, but you forgot to mention probably the biggest flaw of these whiteblocks; the oil O-rings between the oil pan and the lower block. They tend to deform and this will cause an oil pressure loss (and will ruin your engine)
Great point! Definitely something to look out for!
Sealing between oil pan and lower block is accomplished with anaerobic sealant which lasts a very long time from the factory. Perhaps you mean the oil cooler o-rings which fit to the pan?
Definitely something to check on and it's KIND of a pita to drop the oil pan assembly
Can I get black v70.i love to drive. Awesome
Ive had 2 s60 t5 and around 100000 miles on long journeys i got a problem with both of them where all the electrics would fail and would skip gears
Did the problem always start with the cabin lights coming on and the "left rear door open" message appearing, and in warmer weather/ with the heater on? If so, it is most likely the CEM overheating. There is a company called Xemodex that will take the CEM apart and solder in some heat sinks
Why is s60 t5 not acknowledged when talking about the high and low pressure turbo models
Great cars. All T5 are high pressure Turbos.
I cant find any part to my s60 T 180hk 2002 Mod on your site :/
What part are you looking for, Roger?
but no mention of the 2.3 T5....
The most notorious T5 engine in my opinion more reliable then the updated p2 2.4 T5 With practically the same power. Plus it was used in the p80 gen v70 and before that the 850.
The P2 gen did use the 2.3 block as its T5 engine up untill 2003.
What's that spinning thing in the background in that glass to the left of the handsome presenter