TL;DR IF YOU OWN A DELTA PRINTER YOU ABSOLUTELY SHOULD TRY KLIPPER! My first printer was an Anycubic Kossel Pulley that I bought second hand, and it was nothing but a constant nightmare. I could never get it to level correctly, and even when I did finally get it printing after using a least-squares calculator online, it only lasted for a couple of weeks before it was completely out again. I had resigned that it was just a bad purchase, and left it off collecting dust after I purchased my ender 3. I had been considering stripping the kossel of parts for a hypercube build, but decided to give it one more try with klipper since I still felt like experimenting with that, AND OH MY GOD IT WORKS! After about an hour of setup and going through klippers basic delta calibration and extended delta calibration it's now printing great and FAST! I'm getting an SKR mini E3 board in sometime in october for my ender3, and will be giving klipper a try on that one. Also, the convenience of the printer.cfg file as opposed to having to reflash firmware just can't be understated.
INSTALL the OCTOKLIPPER Plugin! I have macro buttons all over the place to greatly simplify things like Bed Mesh Leveling, Setting probe clearances, (After changing nozzles for example), diagnostics and more. I installed Klipper after getting my Ender 3 in February and learning for a month. (I'm a computer tech though.) I actually forget what it was like to use Marlin! It sounded way different, for sure. Anyhow, I can't say enough about how good it it for advanced users!! I gradually got most of the things that bugged me worked out. The only remaining thing, when my machine powers down and back up, I need to do a firmware restart. Thanks again for your rear enclosure project for the Boards and electronics! It made my machine, look tiny, finally!!! (Even hiding the RasPi completely!)
I would like to see it running on a SKR 1.3. I have this board here and I'm just waiting for my TMC2209 drivers to arrive (tomorrow, hopefully!) to upgrade my ender 3.
I'm curious how that goes and what the process is. I'm waiting on my SKR MINI E3 board and will be trying klipper on it, so I'm hopeful more documentation/cfg files will be available by the time my board arrives.
@@joesucher I forgot to say the 2209s took a LOOONG time to ship, they said they were in great demand and the stocks are low because they are very new.
I'm interested in getting more efficient use out of my 3D printer (Ender 3), that means less energy usage and higher print speed at a high quality (printing models) and low noise. Many of the video's on this (and other channels) have helped a lot in that regard. Especially with bringing down the noise levels and higher quality. I do see less information on print speed, although direct drive and a better hotend are mentioned. With Klipper it is also possible to print faster, but how much faster and what are the limiting components and how do we stretch those limits (with better/different components)? Less print time should mean that a print would cost less energy, while the higher speed might cost a bit more energy, most energy is expended on heating components. Not only that, a lot of us in different environments/regions need to cool that additional heat in the summer (thus less energy spent is a double blessing). Another interesting thing is keeping cost in perspective, while I might see myself buying a Mosquito hotend eventually (if it's useful), but right now buying a component that is more expensive then a new printer is not the most efficient use of resources at this time.
The limiting component itself is the printer and its physics. If you really want more, you NEED to go a better built printer. Low mass extruder head assembly/moving parts combined with rigid transmission and rigid frame. The only concepts able to do this are delta printer or a coreXY. A step further is not to use stepper anymore, but brushless dc motors with encoders like you can do with ODRIVE. Happy searching :)
FYI- The SKR PRO V1.1 is pre-wired for SLI so there is very little hassle getting TCMs going. I used TCM5160s with Klipper on my modified ender 5. You can find my posts in the issues area of the Klipper git hub page. I've hit 250 mm/s speeds easily.. working on 1000 mm/s.
Hey Michael, I just updated to the Wrecklab board and used your configuration and wiring sketch. You twisted the head bed and hot end wiring and during a test print the extruder motor got very hot, which is due to the current of 0.9 in your config for the extruder driver. For the headbed you also forgot the resistance of 10k Ohm, which leads to low temperature measurements. If a beginner in klipper simply takes over this, it could lead to problems. Maybe you should adjust this! Greetings Nils
5 Plus would be a great candidate, and I'm pretty sure you can setup the DGUS DWIN display to work with Raspbian - though, Iunno if it would use any of the same pins as the PrintHat
if so, it would only be a matter of finding different suitable pins.can't be that hard...might have to rewrite a daemon, but you'd end up with one slick printer...
Would love to see this on a Delta to see what kinds of speed you could print at. My delta is the fastest printer that I have and use for prototypes. Making it print even faster would be desirable.
I commented above, but I feel like anyone with a delta, klipper is an absolute must. I've got an anycubic kossel pulley and it never wanted to get level and hours upon hours of firmware flashing never helped. It was sitting on the shelf waiting to be stripped for parts. I installed klipper, ran its basic delta calibration to get printing, then it's extended calibration, took me about an hour total, and now it's printing like a champ at 100 - 120mm/s.
i believe this part in config file is incorrect: [tmc2208 stepper_z] uart_pin: ar44 microsteps: 16 interpolate: True run_current: 0.760 sense_resistor: 0.110 stealthchop_threshold: 5 it should be like this uart_pin: ar42, ar44 belongs to extruder uart is that right? working on my own config right now and just notice that
This is my inspiration to try out klipper. But i am stuck. I am using a cr10s pro v2. No luck configuring the bltouch. Sigh. Getting to know the exact pin out is difficult.
So how much faster are people printing with Klipper? is it 10%. 50% etc faster? I thought mostly speed was constrained by the mechanics of the printer.
Since swapping to klipper, my print times seem to be cut down by about 30%. When using marlin, my actual print times would be about 30% longer than the estimated print time in cura. When using the SAME gcode on klipper, my print times are slightly faster than the estimated print time in cura. I can't really explain it because I'm using the same exact gcode with the same exact settings. My best guess is that the 8 bit board is slowing stuff down so it can make all the calculations it needs to, while klipper is running closer to the actual set mm/s speeds. I'm still printing at or below 80mm/s but my print times have definitely decreased. Only downside I've found is that I can't use the full resolution of my webcam connected in octoprint at the same time I'm using klipper, nor can I use octolapse at any webcam resolution or I get all kinds of problems. Lots of bugs when using octolapse including errors that pop up and cancel prints, layer shifts, and really long printer pauses at random times that ruin the surface finish of parts.
I had the stock Ender 3 pro main board with Klipper installed. I tuned Cura for a fast print. Worked really well. Now I've upgraded to SKR 1.3 with 2208s. Running Marlin for the time being. When printing with the speed profile from Cura the print times are more or less the same as with Klipper and the stock board.
@@puhsketti1271 What kind op Raspberry Pi board are you using? And what is the full resolution of your webcam? I'm also curious if your only running 1 printer on the Pi.
Could you do something on the tungsten nozzle from dyze, I just bought 2 of them. And was wondering if someone like you could do a review on it. I'm putting 1 on my micro Swiss all metal hot end
Why i get everytime a "Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z' register IFCNT" failure? Or this kind of failure " Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z' register IFCNT" Do anybody know it? its a Octopus pro.
For the price of the extra board, they could add the heatsinks and plugs. I don´t see the point of it, the Pi would be enough I guess. Thx for the vid!
hello, i have ender 3 v2 with 4.2.7 board, and i have problem with configure klipper, i use config file generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg from github, in [mcu] section path is correct, i choose stm32f103 with 28bit offset bootloader
Sebastian, I have a Sidewinder X1 and just set it up with Klipper. It is working great with the built in control board (MKS Gen L). You could get a high quality short USB cable and put the Pi inside the case for a tidy solution. The nice thing about using Pi without the PrintHat is that you can run 2 printers with Klipper off of it at the same time.
Hey Michael. So it seems you've done most of the aftermarket board options to upgrade a 3d printer, with one glaring ommision, so it begs the question, when are you going to do the Duet 2 Wifi?
I don't know hwo klipper performs compared to a 32 bit board since I went from stock to MKS Gen L with Klipper straight away but my detail and accuracy at 150 mm/s and 1500 mm/s2 is amazing. I mostly print miniatures (well, tanks and vehicles mainly) and aside some minor errors quality is great and prints are just so much faster than before
Hi michael ref. Displays for the printhat, does it have I2C or spi compatibility? If so there are DIY options which may work on the reprap controllers forum. Original post for I2C by user called enif and spi based option by me, blackplasma. For both search "diy oled" i designed mine for use with my ender 3 mks gen l as it does not have i2c header. Worth a look if you have any little printers which need little screens.
Hmm. I get an Ender3 for 170€. I can get a 32 bit board with enbeded TMC drivers for less than 30€. That price is not disconnected to the Ender3 price tag. I wonder if your overall configuration worth its at least 190€ (Pi+Shield+GenL+TMCs). That's an insane investment compared to the Ender3 basic price. Objectively, that's a huge delta price for comparable performance, don't you think ?
The printhat uses a STM32F103 32-bit MCU and has TMC2130 it replaces the GenL+TMCS. Its nice but I would probably just go with a bigtreetech skr e3 dip (which uses the same MCU) and choose the drivers I want.
I was about to say that the hat blocked the other gpio on the Pi then I remembered klipper replaces octoprint so my thought is irrelevant. No octo plug-ins so no need for extra gpio.
klipper doesn't replace octoprint at all. it works in conjunction with it. Octoklipper is a fantastic plugin for octoprint to give you access to a bunch of extra klipper stuff.
Not harder than for a cartesian. And it comes with integrated leveling/calibration (manual or probe). I had it running on my Anycubic linear (the 8bit Trigorilla board was just too slow on its own).
Amazing video! I run Klipper on my MKS gen L with 2208s and wish I had waited a bit more to do it along with your video guide! Would have saved me a lot of trouble! On another note: I was using the same currents for my config but had severe overheating of all my steppers with longer prints at 150 mm/s and 1500 mm/s2. Have you experienced any of that?
@@TeachingTech I didn't have skipped steps so I simply reduced current. I didn't have that option for the extruder since PA put it under a lot of stress and it already started skipping steps quickly. Eventually my solution was setting it to Quarterstepping with Interpolation since according to another youtube video where someone tested the Torque of 2208s that resulted in much better results across a broad range of print speeds
I wonder why they built the PrintHAT board with a 32-bit processor since it is just a pass-through of stepper driver motor control? I am thinking 3D printing (for the home, small office) is at a crux right now: will we continue to build "stand alone / self contained" machines or more dumber connected machines (GCODE executing-only) to a PC/laptop which supplies all the critical thinking?
Late to this, but in case anyone passes by: TL;DR: While it's _possible_, it's not advisable for accurate use. Like any operating system based computer (as opposed to a microcontroller) all communications to the physical pins are marshalled _via the O/S_ and as such can never be guaranteed to be realtime. (e.g. I say, in Python GPIO.Pin(3,HIGH), python then interprets that, then calls the C library for GPIOs, which requests to open the /sys/class/foo/bar/pin file, then it writes to that file, then Linux says "ooh, looks like you're opening a file, I'll better check if you're allowed, yes... ok, and then, and only then, and assuming nothing else is happening at the time, it will write the voltage to the PIN) So, the O/S can only switch the output pin voltage via that chain of command, and when it has chance, based upon other processes running on the system at that time. Therefore trying to control, with any accuracy, a stepper driver from the O/S managed pins on a Pi is nigh on impossible, and never guaranteed. Hence we see that electronic hardware that requires any instantaneous (next clock cycle) change in voltages will pass that management over to a microcontroller, such as the ATMega on an Arduino board or similar as they can send and respond to pin interrupts on that next clock cycle (or at least program step), rather than whenever an operating system has finished doing other tasks. The Arduino bootloader firmware, for example, is a realtime single burnt in process running at the bare metal level from the EEPROM on the Arduino and doesn't have to worry about boring OS things like what the time is and whether someone is about to login etc. So, while it's possible to have a very bare bones microcontroller attached to a Pi, and use a protocol such as Firmata to talk to the m/c via serial and use the m/c to control a stepper via that (I do this for non 3d print projects using a protoboard built "Arduino" which cost < $10) , Firmwares such as Marlin on a printer mainboard, or boards like the Printhat, are basically this, but with all the specialist bells and whistles one needs to queue up sequences of motions to the stepper and control the stepper drivers in realtime from that queued sequence.
Thank you for this, I am running an mks gen L with a raspi 4, trying to install klipper I get this error: avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout when trying to (make flash FLASH_DEVICE=....) any hints?!
Can someone guide on the benefits of the PrintHat Versus the SKR Mini E3? Are those two parts that do the same thing, cross compatible, or not related. I was pretty sold on the SKR upgrade from Michael's previous video (es[pecially as it is pretty much just a plug for plug swap out. Right now I have the best quality after upgrading to Marlin adding the BLTouch and custom Code from Michael. IF I can up the speed without detriment to the quality I have gained, I'm in. Advice? @TeachingTech
3b is sufficient. Even if it sounds like you need high computing power, it is not. But 8bit is just ultraslow so everything looks like flash compared to it.
@@hanswurstusbrachialus5213 I asked this because I saw many posts that even with a 32bit board like the SKR, native 256 was a strain for the processor. I have a SKR with 2130s and I am still using native 16 with interpolation. I am wondering if increasing native microstepping would improve print quality over interpolation.
Hi, great Video so far. After the setup and using your uploaded klipper firmware i'm getting the following error in octopi: "Shared TMC uarts need unique address or select_pins polarity" Hardware is identical. Any suggestions on this problem?
the probability I've missed something is high, but... if you're using a pi and this board, why do you need the mainboard? my current understanding suggests these should replace it entirely.
yes, that hat or the mks board completely replace the original mainboard. You can run klipper with the original main board as well(that's what the part one video was), you just don't get the benefit of the upgraed stepper drivers(or 32 bit processor).
Too bad the printhat has only 4 drivers. That really quite limits its use, especially with klipper, such as having individually driven dual Z axis. Not to mention stuff like 2 extruders.
Good lord Mike, don't just pull the power out of a RPi - the discharge can (and I've seen it happen) destroy a uSD card physically. It's not pretty when it happens.
You yourself probably cost a lot less to make, but is now much more expensive in 'use'. ;-) Just because the parts of something cost very little doesn't mean that asking 10x the cost is price gouging. In this case, it's a special made board with a very limited customer base, that required development/support and a very limited 'print run'. But I suspect that for an Ender 3 upgrade it is indeed far too expensive. But upgrading a far more expensive (ageing) printer it might be more then worth it.
![Klipper input shaping - A leap forward in high speed AND high quality 3D printing [Rat Rig part 4]](/img/n.gif)
TL;DR IF YOU OWN A DELTA PRINTER YOU ABSOLUTELY SHOULD TRY KLIPPER!
My first printer was an Anycubic Kossel Pulley that I bought second hand, and it was nothing but a constant nightmare. I could never get it to level correctly, and even when I did finally get it printing after using a least-squares calculator online, it only lasted for a couple of weeks before it was completely out again. I had resigned that it was just a bad purchase, and left it off collecting dust after I purchased my ender 3. I had been considering stripping the kossel of parts for a hypercube build, but decided to give it one more try with klipper since I still felt like experimenting with that, AND OH MY GOD IT WORKS! After about an hour of setup and going through klippers basic delta calibration and extended delta calibration it's now printing great and FAST! I'm getting an SKR mini E3 board in sometime in october for my ender3, and will be giving klipper a try on that one.
Also, the convenience of the printer.cfg file as opposed to having to reflash firmware just can't be understated.
Thanks for sharing in such detail. I'd like to try it on a Delta for sure.
INSTALL the OCTOKLIPPER Plugin! I have macro buttons all over the place to greatly simplify things like Bed Mesh Leveling, Setting probe clearances, (After changing nozzles for example), diagnostics and more. I installed Klipper after getting my Ender 3 in February and learning for a month. (I'm a computer tech though.) I actually forget what it was like to use Marlin! It sounded way different, for sure. Anyhow, I can't say enough about how good it it for advanced users!! I gradually got most of the things that bugged me worked out. The only remaining thing, when my machine powers down and back up, I need to do a firmware restart. Thanks again for your rear enclosure project for the Boards and electronics! It made my machine, look tiny, finally!!! (Even hiding the RasPi completely!)
I covered the Octoklipper plugin in part 1, plus it comes pre-installed on the image for the Printhat. i agree it's very worthwhile.
I would like to see it running on a SKR 1.3. I have this board here and I'm just waiting for my TMC2209 drivers to arrive (tomorrow, hopefully!) to upgrade my ender 3.
I'm curious how that goes and what the process is. I'm waiting on my SKR MINI E3 board and will be trying klipper on it, so I'm hopeful more documentation/cfg files will be available by the time my board arrives.
where (link) did you buy the skr 1.3 and tmc2209 drivers. In amazon I see its compatible only with tmc2208
is it compatible with klipper? if so, it will probably be even faster, since you be having 2 32bit processors for printing.
@@joesucher AFAIK, yes, should be fine.
@@joesucher I forgot to say the 2209s took a LOOONG time to ship, they said they were in great demand and the stocks are low because they are very new.
I'm interested in getting more efficient use out of my 3D printer (Ender 3), that means less energy usage and higher print speed at a high quality (printing models) and low noise. Many of the video's on this (and other channels) have helped a lot in that regard. Especially with bringing down the noise levels and higher quality. I do see less information on print speed, although direct drive and a better hotend are mentioned. With Klipper it is also possible to print faster, but how much faster and what are the limiting components and how do we stretch those limits (with better/different components)? Less print time should mean that a print would cost less energy, while the higher speed might cost a bit more energy, most energy is expended on heating components. Not only that, a lot of us in different environments/regions need to cool that additional heat in the summer (thus less energy spent is a double blessing). Another interesting thing is keeping cost in perspective, while I might see myself buying a Mosquito hotend eventually (if it's useful), but right now buying a component that is more expensive then a new printer is not the most efficient use of resources at this time.
The limiting component itself is the printer and its physics.
If you really want more, you NEED to go a better built printer.
Low mass extruder head assembly/moving parts combined with rigid transmission and rigid frame.
The only concepts able to do this are delta printer or a coreXY.
A step further is not to use stepper anymore, but brushless dc motors with encoders like you can do with ODRIVE.
Happy searching :)
You should continue you phonegap app development series. That series helped me a lot!
FYI- The SKR PRO V1.1 is pre-wired for SLI so there is very little hassle getting TCMs going. I used TCM5160s with Klipper on my modified ender 5. You can find my posts in the issues area of the Klipper git hub page. I've hit 250 mm/s speeds easily.. working on 1000 mm/s.
Fantastik test/review as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
Hey Michael,
I just updated to the Wrecklab board and used your configuration and wiring sketch.
You twisted the head bed and hot end wiring and during a test print the extruder motor got very hot, which is due to the current of 0.9 in your config for the extruder driver.
For the headbed you also forgot the resistance of 10k Ohm, which leads to low temperature measurements.
If a beginner in klipper simply takes over this, it could lead to problems.
Maybe you should adjust this!
Greetings Nils
So how does klipper with say a mks gen L compare to a skr 1.3 with marlin as far as print speed/quality.
That's something I'd like to determine as well. I'd say for 90% of users either would be sufficient.
This is a 8 bit processor and de ask 1.3 is a 32bit arm processor
Nested Vectored Interrupt Controller with far superior math capabilities and a Separate data and instruction bus. It will be idle most of the time.
5 Plus would be a great candidate, and I'm pretty sure you can setup the DGUS DWIN display to work with Raspbian - though, Iunno if it would use any of the same pins as the PrintHat
if so, it would only be a matter of finding different suitable pins.can't be that hard...might have to rewrite a daemon, but you'd end up with one slick printer...
www.ampdisplay.com/documents/pdf/Instructions%20for%20DEBIAN%20V1.0.pdf
With the price of the Rpi + the Printhat, being that the Printhat drivers are soldered to the board, you may as well just buy a Duet board.
Duet doesnt run klipper.
Very informative! Thank you!
I'd love to see you review the Flex3drive!
Would love to see this on a Delta to see what kinds of speed you could print at. My delta is the fastest printer that I have and use for prototypes. Making it print even faster would be desirable.
I commented above, but I feel like anyone with a delta, klipper is an absolute must. I've got an anycubic kossel pulley and it never wanted to get level and hours upon hours of firmware flashing never helped. It was sitting on the shelf waiting to be stripped for parts. I installed klipper, ran its basic delta calibration to get printing, then it's extended calibration, took me about an hour total, and now it's printing like a champ at 100 - 120mm/s.
I'd like to put it on a delta for sure. Just a matter of time.
Damn, the price of that hat!
i believe this part in config file is incorrect:
[tmc2208 stepper_z]
uart_pin: ar44
microsteps: 16
interpolate: True
run_current: 0.760
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 5
it should be like this uart_pin: ar42, ar44 belongs to extruder
uart
is that right?
working on my own config right now and just notice that
thank you
This is my inspiration to try out klipper. But i am stuck. I am using a cr10s pro v2. No luck configuring the bltouch. Sigh. Getting to know the exact pin out is difficult.
So how much faster are people printing with Klipper? is it 10%. 50% etc faster? I thought mostly speed was constrained by the mechanics of the printer.
Since swapping to klipper, my print times seem to be cut down by about 30%. When using marlin, my actual print times would be about 30% longer than the estimated print time in cura. When using the SAME gcode on klipper, my print times are slightly faster than the estimated print time in cura. I can't really explain it because I'm using the same exact gcode with the same exact settings. My best guess is that the 8 bit board is slowing stuff down so it can make all the calculations it needs to, while klipper is running closer to the actual set mm/s speeds. I'm still printing at or below 80mm/s but my print times have definitely decreased. Only downside I've found is that I can't use the full resolution of my webcam connected in octoprint at the same time I'm using klipper, nor can I use octolapse at any webcam resolution or I get all kinds of problems. Lots of bugs when using octolapse including errors that pop up and cancel prints, layer shifts, and really long printer pauses at random times that ruin the surface finish of parts.
A good question. I think my Ender 3 shakes too much before the capacity of the 8-bit board becomes a problem.
@@puhsketti1271 Hmmm... I think I will stick with the 32bit SKR then in that case.
I had the stock Ender 3 pro main board with Klipper installed. I tuned Cura for a fast print. Worked really well. Now I've upgraded to SKR 1.3 with 2208s. Running Marlin for the time being. When printing with the speed profile from Cura the print times are more or less the same as with Klipper and the stock board.
@@puhsketti1271 What kind op Raspberry Pi board are you using? And what is the full resolution of your webcam? I'm also curious if your only running 1 printer on the Pi.
FYI klipper doesnt like stealthchop, something to do with the precise step timing (source: klipper docs)
Yeah I've read that. I guess my 2208 results match that.
@@TeachingTech I run some on my Z with no issues but no stealthchop.
Could you do something on the tungsten nozzle from dyze, I just bought 2 of them.
And was wondering if someone like you could do a review on it.
I'm putting 1 on my micro Swiss all metal hot end
Why do you waste money on something noone really needs? xD
Why i get everytime a "Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z' register IFCNT" failure? Or this kind of failure " Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z' register IFCNT"
Do anybody know it? its a Octopus pro.
When will you be doing a video on SKR V1.3,TMC2208 and TRULEV 600 and Klipper
I've made videos on all of those things already. It's a very specific thing to make another with that combination.
I've been going from video to video but am confused with TRULEV 600 on ATOM.
For the price of the extra board, they could add the heatsinks and plugs. I don´t see the point of it, the Pi would be enough I guess. Thx for the vid!
Is there possibility that you can show how to install klipper on beaglebone black with replicape?
hello, i have ender 3 v2 with 4.2.7 board, and i have problem with configure klipper, i use config file generic-creality-v4.2.7.cfg from github, in [mcu] section path is correct, i choose stm32f103 with 28bit offset bootloader
Great video! Do you think your sidewinder x1 with the volcano hotbed would be good for the klipper raspberry pi hat?
Sebastian, I have a Sidewinder X1 and just set it up with Klipper. It is working great with the built in control board (MKS Gen L). You could get a high quality short USB cable and put the Pi inside the case for a tidy solution. The nice thing about using Pi without the PrintHat is that you can run 2 printers with Klipper off of it at the same time.
do a video on mks gen L with tmc2130 SPI
Hey Michael. So it seems you've done most of the aftermarket board options to upgrade a 3d printer, with one glaring ommision, so it begs the question, when are you going to do the Duet 2 Wifi?
Mike can you put in the link for the ender 3 pinout for the printhat. Thanks
Is this better than skr mini e3 V2 ?
if we had mks gen l with a4899 drivers, do we need to set something diffrerent, or we just skip step 4?
Is this worth it when you already have a 32Bit board in your ender 3?
Unless you are doing something insanely fast probably not.
I don't know hwo klipper performs compared to a 32 bit board since I went from stock to MKS Gen L with Klipper straight away but my detail and accuracy at 150 mm/s and 1500 mm/s2 is amazing. I mostly print miniatures (well, tanks and vehicles mainly) and aside some minor errors quality is great and prints are just so much faster than before
Hi michael ref. Displays for the printhat, does it have I2C or spi compatibility? If so there are DIY options which may work on the reprap controllers forum. Original post for I2C by user called enif and spi based option by me, blackplasma. For both search "diy oled" i designed mine for use with my ender 3 mks gen l as it does not have i2c header. Worth a look if you have any little printers which need little screens.
Hmm. I get an Ender3 for 170€. I can get a 32 bit board with enbeded TMC drivers for less than 30€. That price is not disconnected to the Ender3 price tag. I wonder if your overall configuration worth its at least 190€ (Pi+Shield+GenL+TMCs). That's an insane investment compared to the Ender3 basic price. Objectively, that's a huge delta price for comparable performance, don't you think ?
The printhat uses a STM32F103 32-bit MCU and has TMC2130 it replaces the GenL+TMCS. Its nice but I would probably just go with a bigtreetech skr e3 dip (which uses the same MCU) and choose the drivers I want.
I was about to say that the hat blocked the other gpio on the Pi then I remembered klipper replaces octoprint so my thought is irrelevant. No octo plug-ins so no need for extra gpio.
klipper doesn't replace octoprint at all. it works in conjunction with it. Octoklipper is a fantastic plugin for octoprint to give you access to a bunch of extra klipper stuff.
@@nothanks7752 I sit corrected. Then my concern is valid about the gpio if someone wanted to use them.
There are some pins spare on the Printhat unless you are running max end stops too.
Help. Klipper on creality board 1.1.5 tmc2208 . Ender 3 pro
How hard is klipper to set up for a delta?
There is an example delta config file but I have no first hand experience.
Not harder than for a cartesian. And it comes with integrated leveling/calibration (manual or probe). I had it running on my Anycubic linear (the 8bit Trigorilla board was just too slow on its own).
Amazing video! I run Klipper on my MKS gen L with 2208s and wish I had waited a bit more to do it along with your video guide! Would have saved me a lot of trouble! On another note: I was using the same currents for my config but had severe overheating of all my steppers with longer prints at 150 mm/s and 1500 mm/s2. Have you experienced any of that?
The 2208s made the steppers quite hot to touch, but they were still skipping steps. That's the worse case scenario.
@@TeachingTech I didn't have skipped steps so I simply reduced current. I didn't have that option for the extruder since PA put it under a lot of stress and it already started skipping steps quickly. Eventually my solution was setting it to Quarterstepping with Interpolation since according to another youtube video where someone tested the Torque of 2208s that resulted in much better results across a broad range of print speeds
I wonder why they built the PrintHAT board with a 32-bit processor since it is just a pass-through of stepper driver motor control?
I am thinking 3D printing (for the home, small office) is at a crux right now: will we continue to build "stand alone / self contained" machines or more dumber connected machines (GCODE executing-only) to a PC/laptop which supplies all the critical thinking?
Curious to know if klipper can drive stepper modules directly from pi pins?
Late to this, but in case anyone passes by:
TL;DR: While it's _possible_, it's not advisable for accurate use.
Like any operating system based computer (as opposed to a microcontroller) all communications to the physical pins are marshalled _via the O/S_ and as such can never be guaranteed to be realtime. (e.g. I say, in Python GPIO.Pin(3,HIGH), python then interprets that, then calls the C library for GPIOs, which requests to open the /sys/class/foo/bar/pin file, then it writes to that file, then Linux says "ooh, looks like you're opening a file, I'll better check if you're allowed, yes... ok, and then, and only then, and assuming nothing else is happening at the time, it will write the voltage to the PIN)
So, the O/S can only switch the output pin voltage via that chain of command, and when it has chance, based upon other processes running on the system at that time. Therefore trying to control, with any accuracy, a stepper driver from the O/S managed pins on a Pi is nigh on impossible, and never guaranteed.
Hence we see that electronic hardware that requires any instantaneous (next clock cycle) change in voltages will pass that management over to a microcontroller, such as the ATMega on an Arduino board or similar as they can send and respond to pin interrupts on that next clock cycle (or at least program step), rather than whenever an operating system has finished doing other tasks. The Arduino bootloader firmware, for example, is a realtime single burnt in process running at the bare metal level from the EEPROM on the Arduino and doesn't have to worry about boring OS things like what the time is and whether someone is about to login etc.
So, while it's possible to have a very bare bones microcontroller attached to a Pi, and use a protocol such as Firmata to talk to the m/c via serial and use the m/c to control a stepper via that (I do this for non 3d print projects using a protoboard built "Arduino" which cost < $10) , Firmwares such as Marlin on a printer mainboard, or boards like the Printhat, are basically this, but with all the specialist bells and whistles one needs to queue up sequences of motions to the stepper and control the stepper drivers in realtime from that queued sequence.
1:24 you put Creality Melzi in the MKS board
Nope - it states how to use creality melzy pinout in relation to the shown mks board. (see other vid for clarification)
Thank you for this, I am running an mks gen L with a raspi 4, trying to install klipper I get this error: avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout when trying to (make flash FLASH_DEVICE=....) any hints?!
Yeah dude, just read the note below that says to make sure octoprint is not connected to the board.
Wow...cheers man...it worked.
Can someone guide on the benefits of the PrintHat Versus the SKR Mini E3? Are those two parts that do the same thing, cross compatible, or not related. I was pretty sold on the SKR upgrade from Michael's previous video (es[pecially as it is pretty much just a plug for plug swap out. Right now I have the best quality after upgrading to Marlin adding the BLTouch and custom Code from Michael. IF I can up the speed without detriment to the quality I have gained, I'm in. Advice? @TeachingTech
So with decent processing power, can you get native 256 microstepping? What would that take? RPi 3b? RPi 4? or more power than that?
3b is sufficient. Even if it sounds like you need high computing power, it is not. But 8bit is just ultraslow so everything looks like flash compared to it.
@@hanswurstusbrachialus5213 I asked this because I saw many posts that even with a 32bit board like the SKR, native 256 was a strain for the processor. I have a SKR with 2130s and I am still using native 16 with interpolation. I am wondering if increasing native microstepping would improve print quality over interpolation.
Hi, great Video so far.
After the setup and using your uploaded klipper firmware i'm getting the following error in octopi: "Shared TMC uarts need unique address or select_pins polarity"
Hardware is identical.
Any suggestions on this problem?
Change this line.
[tmc2208 stepper_z]
uart_pin: ar42
In pastebin is a error.
Line 51 "ar42" instead of "ar44"
the probability I've missed something is high, but... if you're using a pi and this board, why do you need the mainboard? my current understanding suggests these should replace it entirely.
yes, that hat or the mks board completely replace the original mainboard. You can run klipper with the original main board as well(that's what the part one video was), you just don't get the benefit of the upgraed stepper drivers(or 32 bit processor).
Too bad the printhat has only 4 drivers. That really quite limits its use, especially with klipper, such as having individually driven dual Z axis. Not to mention stuff like 2 extruders.
Is that ringing from the extruder weight, or is it from the moving Y axis?
It's all around the print so probably a bit of both.
Good lord Mike, don't just pull the power out of a RPi - the discharge can (and I've seen it happen) destroy a uSD card physically. It's not pretty when it happens.
wtf 92 Euros? that thing costs 10 bucks to make tops!
Yeah I was still down till I saw it has TMC2130 drivers.. like the hell at those prices I expect 2208s or at MINIMUM ports to put my own steppers in
Exactly, ridiculously overpriced gougeing. Cue the moaning and gnashing of teeth when the Chinese bring a cheap clone to market.
Go ahead, make your own. Guaranty it will cost much more.
@@davidlockwood4545 Lol shill harder
You yourself probably cost a lot less to make, but is now much more expensive in 'use'. ;-) Just because the parts of something cost very little doesn't mean that asking 10x the cost is price gouging. In this case, it's a special made board with a very limited customer base, that required development/support and a very limited 'print run'. But I suspect that for an Ender 3 upgrade it is indeed far too expensive. But upgrading a far more expensive (ageing) printer it might be more then worth it.
I would highly recommend using a tool like meld (meldmerge.org/) when comparing differences i files.
4th Comment, also great video
Hjxjdh
Lol you STILL can't buy this in the US...cheaper to just buy a better Motherboard 😅