@@elmariachi5133 Not that can be explained as anything but a programming error, or an error in materials used. nope, sorry, never have. Same with a computer, any errors, are a result of the humans making the robot or computer and making the mistake.
Klipper is the best thing ever happened. Printer movement is so incredibly smooth and fast. Also the config file editing with the klipper octoprint plugin makes changes to the firmware super easy. Macro support.. Much better pressure advance.. Just amazing!
Im stunned as hell tonight. Ive been using octo print since the beginning and have NEVER heard of Klipper. Ive been wanting to upgrade my CR-10S main board to 32bit but this just threw a wrench into the whole thing. It really works?!
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Love that the horrible jerk-ing is gone! Lovely... It actually seems better than marlin even without pressure advance.
@ Is the linear advance/pressure advance in klipper a little less hard/jerky on the extruder compared to marlin? I love linear advance but it stresses me out how jerky the extruder movement can get on small circles for example. I'm scared the micro back and forth movement is gonna wear out my BMG extruder's gear and start to cause backlash eventually
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I believe klipper can be even more aggressive, but you control that via the normal acceleration value. Nine seems to be fine with sort of bizarre movements and no grinding of filament yet afaict.
For posterity, SSH is now included in cmd and Powershell on Windows 10. No need for PuTTY, but PuTTY does let you save connection settings and other nice features. Helpful video as always, thank you.
I first want to thank you for all you great help, I have just started 3D Printing and as I was checking out video's, I came across your channel and have learned a lot before my first print. I have already done some of the mod's you suggested on my Ender 3 Pro and I am very happy with what I have done, with your help. Keep up the great work.
After toying with the idea of using this on my ageing MK2s, your video inspired me to give it a go. It was a bit harder than I would of liked (largely because there is no MK2s cfg available), but I now have a working config, with mesh bed levelling, pressure advance etc - which is producing some of the best calibration prints I have seen, and the speed boost is great (using re-configured prusa slicer). I would definitely recommend this to anyone with older hardware looking for an upgrade...
I just wanted to say thank you for this video I follow these instructions with a raspberry pi 4 with 4 gigs of RAM and my printer is working better than it ever has
That's a bit overpowered. You could have nice results with a RPI 3b+. I have been runing this for at least 6 months and had never reached more than 500mb of ram.
@@jofagoma I have recently moved it over to my server with 96 gigs of RAM It works so fast and smooth The design of the program only uses low ram on raspberry pi on the 4 it used approximately 900megs at a time On this server it holds onto 1.5 gigs of ram
Yes. My printer actually doesn't have much problem. It just that I have raspberry pi readily available, octopi backup image (customized to my printer) available and even the customized Marlin codes available in my GitHub. If anything wrong, I can restore it back to normal within 10 minutes. No harm experimenting new thing. I just need to find some free time.
@@jimmer411 I am printing PLA at 120mm/s without klipper on my wanhao i3 plus so believe me that's not fast. A friend of mine is printing at 250mm/s with klipper 🙄
I've been using Klipper exclusively for months now. It's fantastic. I can push my prints to 150mm/s and 3000mm/s/s acceleration and still retain 90% of my print quality. I love it. Glad it's finally getting some of the attention it deserves.
Hi, have you installed any mods? I tried it with the alu extruder and stock hot end and over 60mm/s i got really bad under extrusion (not sure if the hot end is not able to melt the pla this fast or the extruder has not enough Force on the filament)
@@calvinb2388 I've found that you can get good quality printing fast for most of the part but for your outer perimeter/wall and top go down to 30 or 40mm/s. There's not much increase in time and it helps the outer surface finish.
@@calvinb2388 Neither the stock hotend nor the stock extruder are likely going to handle printing that fast. I have a Mosquito hotend with a 50W heater on mine and a Titan extruder in direct drive configuration. I've cranked it all the way up to 250mm/s for very large prints. The shear amount of plastic flowing through at that speed is something that the small stock hotend and weak heater cartridge can't handle, and the amount of pressure at those speeds is too much for a non-geared extruder most of the time. Bowden is also a huge speed restriction. Fast printing is not for everyone. It requires more tuning to get it truly dialed in. Pressure advance has to be tuned more precisely than at slower speeds. Your machine must be in perfect order mechanically... no slop, proper belt tension, etc.
Hope you do more videos on Klipper. I see a lot of nasty comments but please ignore them, I think you'r edoing the world a service by exploring these types of things and educating others the best you can.
Inspired by this video (and by peeking in to klipper before) I decided to give klipper a go. It's really good and I'm getting really awesome results and great speed! I had one problem though. My Ender 3 printer is equipped with a capacitive Z sensor which started to get a lot of interference. Apparently the klipper has a lot higher steprate for the motors that they start to interfere with the sensor. I solved the problem with connecting a GND cable from the control board to the aluminium plate behind the hotend and sensor, which shielded the sensor enough to get me printing. Electical engineer relative of mine also said it might help even more if the cables to the motors were shielded, and the shield connected to the GND, but I have managed without that so far. The interference comes specifically from the motors because they are driven by such high frequency signal, which again affects the sensor even if the cables are nowhere near the sensor itself.
I have installed it on my Ender 3 and printed a test cube also. After the installation should I change something in Cura? Speed or anything to the starting gcode? While I printed the test cube it didn't feel that is faster or the quality better... :( Thanks,Norbert
Hi Teaching Tech. I really respect the amount of work and effort you put into your videos. Well done, you have made my entry into 3D printing much easier. Thank you.
I'm also having issues with the provided example where the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE is going 'out of range', looking around to see if I've done something wrong elsewhere or they've made other changes to klipper as the example worked for me in the past. update: Looks like I needed to manually subtract the x/y offset from the Teaching Tech config under [bed_mesh]: Original: min_point: 90, 20 max_point: 235, 235 Current: mesh_min: 45, 20 mesh_max: 190, 225
Shredded my whole board and display somehow. I bought an Mini V3, filament sensor and a touch screen and I think, it´s time to try out something new, make the best out of it and improve some things. Thanks for the how to. Can´t wait for my spare parts
Thanks! Love your videos everything worked out. I just did not know before doing all of this that my printer's board needs a bootloader (good thing I had an Arduino Uno lying around and googled another of your videos) would be nice if it was mentioned at the start :)
you can use instead of octoprint, the new DWC2 which is Duet Web control adapted to klipper by Stephan and it can be use as standalone klipper gui with no need of the heavy octoprint. github.com/Stephan3/dwc2-for-klipper
nice to see you getting used to klipper. use a bowden setup if want crazy , crazy speed. and do not forget to check the multi mcu ! you can use multiple boards to do crazy stuff!
Very nice video on setting up Klipper. I’m not sure you’d see the value as quickly on a Cartesian printer as on a CoreXY or Delta, where stuttering on 8-bit boards is obvious. Great to have alternatives in the marketplace!
Great video. I set up klipper on my CR10S with BLTouch v3 but didnt really like it. Seemed too fiddly and Marlin TH3D was just giving me way better results. The faster print times didn't really mean anything since underextusion is guaranteed if you dont upgrade your hot end and extruder motor so it can keep up melting plastic. CoreXY seems better for klipper since it's not a bed slinger
I've been using Klipper for a while now, and I'd never go back to Marlin on the machine that have a Raspberry Pi. Other than that, I've just discovered this great video, and this made me consider using the [safe_z_home] rather than the [homing_override]. After test, there is one major difference when it comes to resetting a BL-Touch that is in error mode. The safe_z_home can reset it by means of the activate_gcode defined at probe level, but the moment it does so triggers the Z_endstop and the homing is done far above the buildplate. So I'm back to the homing_override, where I reset and stow the pin while homing XY, then proceed to homing Z.
I noticed a couple of things setting up mesh for the BL Touch; maybe there was an algorithm update since you made the video. Hope I got the offsets right. 1) mesh_min and mesh_max are the location of the probe. Klipper takes the offsets into account when positioning it. Because of 1 above: 2) mesh_min and mesh_max should be the exact coordinates you want to probe but each probe mount location needs a different calculation for them. 2a) for left/front probes (mine): i) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size but reduced by your X offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size but reduced by your Y offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_min X value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. v) i.e. my probe offsets are X-34, Y-5, my bed is 235x235, I chose a 10mm buffer. For mesh_max X that's 235 + (-34) - 10 and Y it's 235 + (-5) - 10, or 191,220. For mesh_min we keep it symmetrical with X 235 - 191 and for Y 235 - 220, or 44,15. 2b) for right/front probes: i) The mesh_min X value should will be your nozzle X offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.a.ii. above. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.b.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the value from 2.b.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the origin. 2c) for left/back probes: i) The mesh_min Y value should be the nozzle Y offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.a.i. above. ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.a.iii. above. ---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage. iv) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.c.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical. ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. 2d) for right/back probes: i) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.b.i. above ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. ii) The mesh_min Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.i. above ---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip. iii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.b.iii. above ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit. iv) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.iv. above ---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.
@@TeachingTech How did Klippers thermal heater protection hold up? I feel its necessary to mention youre not limited to 1 control board, 1 of my printers runs 2 boards controlling 7 steppers haha. I could swear the motors on a cr10 i have run quieter with klipper than when i tried marlin
You can install klipper on any machine out there, it is just an example config. To use klipper with Ender V2 follow the steps from this video, then download example config for Ender 3 V2 and rename it to printer.cfg (and of course upload it to a pi).
Heads up for anyone wanting to try this, it seems you do in fact need to flash a bootloader first so it isn't as simple as just doing everything through the Pi.
can I flash a bootloader with the raspberry pi? I saw a vid of a bloke doing it on a ender 2 so it seems I should be able to, right? I already have the Pi so it seems like if I could do that it would be cheaper than having to buy the uno...
Big fan of the channel and the usual thoroughness of the content. That said, this video seemed more of a "how to" rather than "should you" video. That is, it lacked any before/after comparison of any print variables. What shortcoming is addressed by installing Klipper and when does that shortcoming typically present itself any any given system. Large, somewhat ambiguous, question; true. That may be the reason for the video being a "how to" but this one does seem different in that regard from others in this channel.
I started using Klipper before it had auto-leveling and printer screen support and it was worth it even then, 250 mm/s printing circles and curves using 8 bit board :)
Great video Michael, thank you for dedicating your time and making the 3D Printing community better. Also, on the commands shouldn't be CD to enter the directory and CD.. to exit the directory? on the handy cheat sheet on the right it says CH. Thanks again.
You should make a video of the Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 (silent drivers!) + Klipper. Switched from Ender 3 stock -> Ender 3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Klipper. Klipper looks *very* promising.
Since this video a lot of instructions became obsolete in the Klipper configuration. Can you post an updated version of this file for Ender 3 with bltouch and creality (Silent) boards?
Same problem. Stuck at "avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e" while flashing. Turns out we need to first flash the board with a bootloader. This requires opening the case :/
Creality Silent Board 1.1.5 uses TMC2208 in Standalone Mode and is NOT compatible with Klipper!!! (that's what Kevin OConner says) I know it, because I finally found out why my extruder doesn't work properly :-(
@@peterwmdavis Not true.... there are huge advantages to using klipper once set up right. Seeing the results of a print side by side and noting the speed at which they can be printed is massive. You can print higher quality *and faster* with Klipper than you can with Marlin.
Using Klipper for months now on my Ender 3 with mks gen 1.4. Very happy with it. Have configured it to include bltouch and controlled fans for board and hotend. Runs like crazy, love it. Too bad, the octoprint plugin looks orphaned....
Hi, I'm running klipper as well on my stock ender 3 and have some trouble with pressure advance (currently set to 0.725). Could you share your pressure advance settings ? thank you :)
if you end up fighting the printer.cfg remember to put in the direct location of the serial port! eg.. for my CR-10S: (found using ls -l /dev/serial/by-id in PUTTY) [mcu] baud: 115200 serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AO000V8E-if00-port0 pin_map: arduino Then go into OctoPrint setup (gear in upper RIGHT) and under serial connection general, make sure '/tmp/printer' is selected and you type /tmp/printer in the 'Additional Serial Ports'. You MUST reboot the system after changing for it to take effect... Took me 3 hours to figure out because of a mis-type but it does work.
ua-cam.com/video/T5TGLleu3MA/v-deo.html this is the one i used, sadly its not for ender 3 but a good portion of the video applies to you, if youre using the bl touch then follow the guide here for the config after setting up this.
At 13:22 you said you have to do the probe setting manually. Maybe they did not have it a year ago. But now it is dead simple to get the exact positioning with a built in command.
Very detailed how, but not much about why. If you don't already have a raspberry pi it's an expensive option. Do you get better prints? Are they faster?
TutelarSword Kind of, 32 bit boards still run Marlin. Klipper claims to use better algorithms for movement to get better results than Marlin. I’m sure TT will tell us more in the next video.
Another cool thing you can do with klipper is use run more than one control board as a MCU, and expand what you can control. So for example you could use your old creality Melzi board plus a SKR or MKS board and have the combined sensors and extruders of both controlled and synchronized through the firmware on the Pi.
@@Dave_the_Dave This. Also not having to fiddle with ArduinoIDE or Platform IO whenever I want to update the firmware. Klipper is developed very actively so it pays to check the github repo for features being added. It doesnt get major release fanfare like marlin and sometimes good stuff sneaks in under the radar. Updating the firmware is done from the console and takes a couple of minutes and doesn't require me to mess with a separate compiler.
this hat is a reap off. no need for this a good skr v1.3 with removable drivers will do better than any hat with tmc2130 smd drivers... and for this price I will be opting for the skr with tmc5160!!
@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel Are you aware of anyone doing this and could you point out a link to examples? I happen to have a developer kit but lack the programing experience to know where to start. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I'll be interested to see your video about the PrintHat...I bought one a month ago, tested it and ended up sending it back. It's a good idea but in the end I couldn't get it to work correctly with Klipper on my Ender 3. I emailed their support on various occasions but they weren't able to help either. I previously had Klipper running well on my Ender 3 with a Fysetc F6 board at a third of the cost.
I find that i cant keep my PI running without it disconnecting so the klipper option would be bound to fail surely. I've got a SKR board to fit so I might try it then. I do like the idea of the speed . Thanks for another informative video Michael.
@@yetanotherPC Thanks for the tip Phil It keeps disconnecting from the WIFI it's a 3B+ . Its not the printer connection thats the issue. My CR 10 s and Ender 3 both do it. It could possibly be my WIFI........I will have to do some tests on HOTPSPOTS versus Home WIFI etc. Thanks for the interest
@@markvreeken That shouldn't affect your print. It will only affect the website which you monitor it from - As long as the connection between RPI and Printer is there, then the print will continue.
@@markvreeken Did you install octopi image? Run "apt update && apt upgrade -y" it ships with trash wifi config that doesn't auto reconnect on drops Octoprint and octopi are terribly made software, not much competition there is the github.com/Stephan3/dwc2-for-klipper out there as well
Can you update this tutorial, I have an elder 3 pro that shipped with the 4.2.2 board and has a bltouch pluged in the dedicated port and where the z_end_stop used to be and I’ve been having such a hard time installing klipper and it has become very frustrating, can you please do an updated version
thank you very much for this video. its exactly what i was after. im looking forward to the next in the sequence to see what ya results are. this really does seem like the smarter move. i am not a fan of doing all the heavy processing work on the wee micro in the printer. the reason we cant print over USB apparently is because the wee 8bit boards are too limited to transfer the gcode in a timely manner and print. when i go to raspi on my mk3 i think i will investigate klipper
I recently set up Klipper with my Ender 3 with an MKS Gen L and UART 2208s. So far I struggle to tune PA with the Bowden setup and my desired acceleration (>1000mm/s^2) because of the extruder skipping steps at higher speeds (100 mm/s). Seeing your success with direct drive I am considering upgrading to one.
With the proper slicer settings for each hardware configuration, I bet the difference will be minimal to negligible. The original Ender 3 mainboard using the ATMega 1284p microcontroller, it makes sense to move the G-code crunching over to something more powerful. But the SKR boards using the more powerful STM32 32-bit microcontrollers it really doesn't make that much sense to offload the G-code crunching. At this level, the limitations are on the hardware side such as the steppers themselves, frame stability, rollers, bowden tubes etc. These limitations cannot be circumvented with any microcontroller performance upgrades. I use the SKR 32 bit board with a fully-fledged firmware such as Marlin, and use Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi just to get the whole web interface convenience. I always have the options to have the printer operate in standalone mode, or with Octoprint hooked up. I'm not locking myself to one solution only.
Klipper can be totally better configured than Marlin. Pressure advance, S-curve are highly customizable. Plus it works better with octoprint - no need to print off the sd card.
You are doing great work. Love your channel. Keep it up. I have an Anet A8 mainboard and the SD card slot stopped working. I was wondering if I could use Klipper on a Rasberry Pi to run the Anet A8 board and utilize the Pi to load files to the printer.
Hey Michael! First of all, thanks for a really great channel! As i can't get neither my TMC5160 or TMC2130 to run at all, and I can't find any examples for how to run these drivers properly on Klipper, I would like to ask you to do a tutorial about it? Thanks again for a super channel!
Octoprint's Bed Visualizer plugin - it reads the recorded mesh from the EEPROM. Of course, you first have to develop the mesh in order for the plugin to visualize it for you.
Looks to have been an update in the code and docs since your video. It now uses a command that will print a taller part with stepped PA changes every few mm.
I know you didn't ask me, but In my opinion the best board for the money for the e3 is the skr1.3 paired with a raspberry pi if you're gonna use marlin and octoprint. If you're gonna use klipper I'd say an MKS gen L would be a better choice since there's no point having 32 bit on the board if you're just offloading everything to the raspberry pi. I like the 1.3 better than the SKR mini e3 because it's a little less finicky and it has options for expansion. Like for me, I use 2 z stepper motors each with their own driver. That way I can take advantage of marlin's auto-align-z feature. But the absolute best board is gonna be the duet wifi 2. Although at that point you're putting in a mainboard that costs almost as much as the printer. So there's that.
@@fredberry2394 keep in mind, every board I listed besides the skr mini e3 requires a printed mounting solution. The reason the skr mini e3 is popular is it uses the same mounting as the stock mainboard. So if you want something you can just drop in with the least effort, get an SKR mini e3 with the TMC2209s I dont like it as much as the SKR 1.3 because it has non replaceable stepper drivers and it has a few quirks, but it's the easiest upgradeable board to install by far. So ask yourself what's important. Ease of install vs expandibility and future proofing.
I am most certainly interested in the MKS gen L. I don't have a problem getting to know that board. I also have dual z motors so that will definitely help.
@@fredberry2394 That's a good choice if you're going to use klipper since it's essentially a arduino mega2560+RAMPS board with enough stepper driver slots to do what you need. I recommend the bigtreetech TMC2208/9 stepsticks to go along with it.
Since you are running Klipper, do you really need the add inboard for the BLTouch or a filament run-out sensor? The Pi has extra unused IO pins. Can you connect straight to those?
Another Teaching Tech gem!!! I have an Ender 3 with a BLTouch, but I just upgraded to the 1.1.5 "Silent" board. Do I need to change anything from these instructions to work with my setup?!
Hey!! I know I am super late on this but I was wondering if it is possible to set up klipper on a pi that has multiple instances of octoprint on it. I use a single pi to control 2 printers and would like to put klipper on one printer only if that is possible!! I feel like it would be because I would be using putty or other program to ssh into that specific printers main board to make the changes but I don't know if running multiple instances would cause any issues. Thanks for all your videos they are always so helpful!
Cant seem to get passed the step you describe in minute 8:56 of your video.Keep getting this message. Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Unable to connect
Love the videos, and in depth but easy to follow explainations! However, The camera's autofocus has been really bugging me, Can it me set to manual? Love the channel!
Hey... I'm new to 3D printing but have learnt a *lot* in the last 3 weeks... this is a steep learning curve! I spent 184 UKP on the original Ender 3 (not V2-- not Pro).. and have probably spent the same amount again on upgrades! *chuckles* ... I now have it printing pretty much reliably... In all my research over the last 3 weeks I'd never heard Klpper being mentioned... so I'm wondering... 3 years after this video was made (now 2022).. is this still a practical "upgrade"? I'm already using a self-compiled 2.1 marlin firmware and a Pi4... I am wondering what firmware people with more experience than I are using these days... thanks for any advice!
Worth noting. If you are running a silent board with 2208s, klipper does not play well. Noted on the klipper github, the 2208s default UART mode runs into a bit too much granularity in klipper and will stop the 2208s in their tracks mid print when trying to run pressure advance. Without pressure advance enabled the 2208 on the extruder plays well.
Excellent instructional video. I would love to do this for my Anycubic Chiron, but they don't have the cfg for it. I'll look further into it. What kind of speed improvements are people getting? I've found printing with OctoPrint tends to drastically increase print time. Maybe this is the cure!
ender 5+ and I think we do as I got an error on the make flash part. ..rabbit hole took me back to the Klipper community and there I found we need to create a boot loader with Adruino ... that would have been a nice thing to add at the beginning wouldn't you think..
Hi Michael. Great VDO. However, if you put on the VDO that we need bootloader first before flash klipper to Ender 3 board would be great. I forgot the step and forgot to put 10uF on Arduino (RST & GND) that take me hours.
Klipper is not aimed at those new to 3D printing. Klipper is for those who would like to make their 3D printer the best it can be. Klipper is also the default firmware for the Reprap project, Voron.
Well that was easy... (rolleyes) Actually, it WAS relatively painless, but the Bootloader install was tough for someone with no Arduino knowledge. I eventually got it all installed and working. Quick question; How do I go about installing Klipper on a second Ender 3 Pro. (It arrived yesterday) All the files are now already on the Pi, so how do I go about putting it on the new printer? I'm thinking (hoping) that I won't need to go right back to the beginning of this tutorial? (I'll have to find the bootloader install tutorial video though...) Also, once you install Klipper, can I still print from a MicroSD card?
So basically if I have Ender 3 without BL-touch and I am into buying original one and installing it for a first time, basically second half of the video is also an tutorial how to get BL-touch working together with Klipper right ? Thank you!
Right. Though it is important to note that you can do Manual Mesh Leveling with Klipper too. I did this and while it's a little annoying process wise, it does help a lot. I found best results by setting up the BED_SCREWS_ADJUST offsets and doing that first with just the least amount of friction on the paper I could feel. Then doing the mesh and making sure my position_min on the Z axis is at least -0.5 (-1 would be safer). Then I did a 5x5 grid because 3x3 wasn't enough on my printer to compensate for the low spot in the middle. That was by far the best way for me to handle the bed leveling without the BL-Touch given the low spot in the middle of my build plate.
Thanks for this video. I am just waiting the delivery of the DD kit for my Ender 3 pro and with my BLTouch that will copy your configuaration and so Klipper should be good to go...... Also, I have been looking at board upgrades as well. Now your video has opened my eyes to another option.... printer improvement through Klipper (I love the way I can go back to the macros of my youth to control regular actions/stuff) and a simple board upgrade to the Creality 1.1.5 silent board with TMC 2208 drivers. I assume that I will have to alter some stuff in the config for the drivers but no doubt there will be help somewhere on-line. What did I do before superfast cable broadband?
Escelent tutorial! One dummy question: Once you install kippler, you can only print having the PI connected, right? in case I disconect the PI, is it going to be possible to print just using the printer board?
klipper integrates the raspberry pi into the processing of the printer. with most firmware, the microCONTROLLER, which is your standard board like arduino/ramps, skr, duet, etc, processes all the information and then sends it to the hardware of the printer. with klipper, the processing is offloaded to a microPROCESSOR, in this case a raspi, and all the fully processed instructions are sent to the board whose only job is relaying those instructions to the machine at the right time. removing the raspberry pi takes away a core component of this setup, which means that your main board (the arduino, skr, duet, etc) most likely would still have all of the components it needs to run the printer, but would probably be incompatible with klipper. in this case you would most likely just want to switch to one of the other firmwares that are built around only using a controller board, like marlin or reprapfirmware.
i know this is a old video but could you do a cr-10s pro with klipper upgrade? there are no internet videos on it ... i got me half ass working but would love to see you do a demo thanks
SKR 1.3 can be a chore due to how BTT did the bootloader. I had to copy the bin file from the pi to the SD card on the board by hand the first time I installed it in order to get it to load properly.
I was wondering if I'd have to revert to original/stock firmware (typically modded Ender3) before integrating this Klipper/rPi shift -- so now I am wondering if I understood correctly: the answer is ?NO? @1:25 I heard "nothing that requires adjustment of the firmware" or something like that (sorry, my Aussie interpreter runs on an 8 bit Z80 machine running CP/M) What I have to decide is which rPi to try first - but THIS sounds like FUN! So what's the bottom line re firmware?
![Klipper input shaping - A leap forward in high speed AND high quality 3D printing [Rat Rig part 4]](/img/n.gif)
Error found 2:56
The command cd not ch (like shown on the right site)!
Argh. Sorry about that and thanks for spotting it.
Well thats means that you are human
Never seen robots make failures? You are so easy to deceive ;)
@@elmariachi5133 Not that can be explained as anything but a programming error, or an error in materials used. nope, sorry, never have. Same with a computer, any errors, are a result of the humans making the robot or computer and making the mistake.
Ehhh... just fix it by running: alias ch='cd' 😁
Klipper is the best thing ever happened.
Printer movement is so incredibly smooth and fast.
Also the config file editing with the klipper octoprint plugin makes changes to the firmware super easy.
Macro support..
Much better pressure advance..
Just amazing!
Im stunned as hell tonight. Ive been using octo print since the beginning and have NEVER heard of Klipper. Ive been wanting to upgrade my CR-10S main board to 32bit but this just threw a wrench into the whole thing. It really works?!
Love that the horrible jerk-ing is gone! Lovely... It actually seems better than marlin even without pressure advance.
@ Is the linear advance/pressure advance in klipper a little less hard/jerky on the extruder compared to marlin? I love linear advance but it stresses me out how jerky the extruder movement can get on small circles for example. I'm scared the micro back and forth movement is gonna wear out my BMG extruder's gear and start to cause backlash eventually
I believe klipper can be even more aggressive, but you control that via the normal acceleration value. Nine seems to be fine with sort of bizarre movements and no grinding of filament yet afaict.
For posterity, SSH is now included in cmd and Powershell on Windows 10. No need for PuTTY, but PuTTY does let you save connection settings and other nice features.
Helpful video as always, thank you.
I usually just save the "connections" into my .ssh/config file just how I would do it on a linux and it works nicely.
I first want to thank you for all you great help, I have just started 3D Printing and as I was checking out video's, I came across your channel and have learned a lot before my first print. I have already done some of the mod's you suggested on my Ender 3 Pro and I am very happy with what I have done, with your help. Keep up the great work.
After toying with the idea of using this on my ageing MK2s, your video inspired me to give it a go. It was a bit harder than I would of liked (largely because there is no MK2s cfg available), but I now have a working config, with mesh bed levelling, pressure advance etc - which is producing some of the best calibration prints I have seen, and the speed boost is great (using re-configured prusa slicer). I would definitely recommend this to anyone with older hardware looking for an upgrade...
I just wanted to say thank you for this video I follow these instructions with a raspberry pi 4 with 4 gigs of RAM and my printer is working better than it ever has
That's a bit overpowered. You could have nice results with a RPI 3b+. I have been runing this for at least 6 months and had never reached more than 500mb of ram.
@@jofagoma I have recently moved it over to my server with 96 gigs of RAM
It works so fast and smooth
The design of the program only uses low ram on raspberry pi on the 4 it used approximately 900megs at a time
On this server it holds onto 1.5 gigs of ram
me: I will not change or upgrade my Ender 3 pro again.
Michael: release another video...
me: hmm... I change my mind.
Yes. My printer actually doesn't have much problem.
It just that I have raspberry pi readily available, octopi backup image (customized to my printer) available and even the customized Marlin codes available in my GitHub.
If anything wrong, I can restore it back to normal within 10 minutes. No harm experimenting new thing.
I just need to find some free time.
@@jimmer411 I am printing PLA at 120mm/s without klipper on my wanhao i3 plus so believe me that's not fast. A friend of mine is printing at 250mm/s with klipper 🙄
I've been using Klipper exclusively for months now. It's fantastic. I can push my prints to 150mm/s and 3000mm/s/s acceleration and still retain 90% of my print quality. I love it. Glad it's finally getting some of the attention it deserves.
Hi, have you installed any mods? I tried it with the alu extruder and stock hot end and over 60mm/s i got really bad under extrusion (not sure if the hot end is not able to melt the pla this fast or the extruder has not enough Force on the filament)
@@calvinb2388 This would not be from the software . We can help you out at the Klipper discord if you like. :) df9yTE2
@@calvinb2388 I've found that you can get good quality printing fast for most of the part but for your outer perimeter/wall and top go down to 30 or 40mm/s. There's not much increase in time and it helps the outer surface finish.
@@Dave_the_Dave agreed,this is what I do my speed sets are : 22.5mm/s outer 80 inner 100 infill 700 1k and 2k accrl
@@calvinb2388 Neither the stock hotend nor the stock extruder are likely going to handle printing that fast. I have a Mosquito hotend with a 50W heater on mine and a Titan extruder in direct drive configuration. I've cranked it all the way up to 250mm/s for very large prints. The shear amount of plastic flowing through at that speed is something that the small stock hotend and weak heater cartridge can't handle, and the amount of pressure at those speeds is too much for a non-geared extruder most of the time. Bowden is also a huge speed restriction.
Fast printing is not for everyone. It requires more tuning to get it truly dialed in. Pressure advance has to be tuned more precisely than at slower speeds. Your machine must be in perfect order mechanically... no slop, proper belt tension, etc.
Hope you do more videos on Klipper. I see a lot of nasty comments but please ignore them, I think you'r edoing the world a service by exploring these types of things and educating others the best you can.
Inspired by this video (and by peeking in to klipper before) I decided to give klipper a go. It's really good and I'm getting really awesome results and great speed! I had one problem though. My Ender 3 printer is equipped with a capacitive Z sensor which started to get a lot of interference. Apparently the klipper has a lot higher steprate for the motors that they start to interfere with the sensor. I solved the problem with connecting a GND cable from the control board to the aluminium plate behind the hotend and sensor, which shielded the sensor enough to get me printing. Electical engineer relative of mine also said it might help even more if the cables to the motors were shielded, and the shield connected to the GND, but I have managed without that so far. The interference comes specifically from the motors because they are driven by such high frequency signal, which again affects the sensor even if the cables are nowhere near the sensor itself.
Awesome tutorial as always Michael. Never tried Klipper yet, but when I do I'll be re watching this so I do it right.
yesss!!! finally! I use klipper on my printer and it's ABSOLUTELY amazing! and I wanted more people to know about it and try it!
I have installed it on my Ender 3 and printed a test cube also. After the installation should I change something in Cura? Speed or anything to the starting gcode? While I printed the test cube it didn't feel that is faster or the quality better... :( Thanks,Norbert
Hi Teaching Tech. I really respect the amount of work and effort you put into your videos. Well done, you have made my entry into 3D printing much easier.
Thank you.
Same
VERY IMPORTANT: For rectangular beds, min_point and max_point have been renamed to mesh_min and mesh_max respectively.
I'm also having issues with the provided example where the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE is going 'out of range', looking around to see if I've done something wrong elsewhere or they've made other changes to klipper as the example worked for me in the past.
update:
Looks like I needed to manually subtract the x/y offset from the Teaching Tech config under [bed_mesh]:
Original:
min_point: 90, 20
max_point: 235, 235
Current:
mesh_min: 45, 20
mesh_max: 190, 225
Very inspiring to see how other firmwares do it.
Shredded my whole board and display somehow. I bought an Mini V3, filament sensor and a touch screen and I think, it´s time to try out something new, make the best out of it and improve some things. Thanks for the how to. Can´t wait for my spare parts
I don't know if I'd have I'd every got this ro work if it wasn't for you. Thanks a lot for this video
Thanks! Love your videos everything worked out. I just did not know before doing all of this that my printer's board needs a bootloader (good thing I had an Arduino Uno lying around and googled another of your videos) would be nice if it was mentioned at the start :)
Once you have Octoklipper installed, you don't need to use WinSCP as you can edit the klipper settings in it's section inside the Octoprint settings.
be aware that the octoklipper-pluging is more or less dead.. github.com/mmone/OctoprintKlipperPlugin
you can use instead of octoprint, the new DWC2 which is Duet Web control adapted to klipper by Stephan and it can be use as standalone klipper gui with no need of the heavy octoprint. github.com/Stephan3/dwc2-for-klipper
@@Nitram_3d Just installed it, still works 100%.
With great power comes great responsibility. Super user.
nice to see you getting used to klipper. use a bowden setup if want crazy , crazy speed. and do not forget to check the multi mcu ! you can use multiple boards to do crazy stuff!
Very nice video on setting up Klipper. I’m not sure you’d see the value as quickly on a Cartesian printer as on a CoreXY or Delta, where stuttering on 8-bit boards is obvious. Great to have alternatives in the marketplace!
Great video. I set up klipper on my CR10S with BLTouch v3 but didnt really like it. Seemed too fiddly and Marlin TH3D was just giving me way better results. The faster print times didn't really mean anything since underextusion is guaranteed if you dont upgrade your hot end and extruder motor so it can keep up melting plastic.
CoreXY seems better for klipper since it's not a bed slinger
True that..
You produce top content
I've been using Klipper for a while now, and I'd never go back to Marlin on the machine that have a Raspberry Pi.
Other than that, I've just discovered this great video, and this made me consider using the [safe_z_home] rather than the [homing_override]. After test, there is one major difference when it comes to resetting a BL-Touch that is in error mode. The safe_z_home can reset it by means of the activate_gcode defined at probe level, but the moment it does so triggers the Z_endstop and the homing is done far above the buildplate. So I'm back to the homing_override, where I reset and stow the pin while homing XY, then proceed to homing Z.
I noticed a couple of things setting up mesh for the BL Touch; maybe there was an algorithm update since you made the video.
Hope I got the offsets right.
1) mesh_min and mesh_max are the location of the probe. Klipper takes the offsets into account when positioning it.
Because of 1 above:
2) mesh_min and mesh_max should be the exact coordinates you want to probe but each probe mount location needs a different calculation for them.
2a) for left/front probes (mine):
i) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size but reduced by your X offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want.
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip.
ii) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size but reduced by your Y offset value and any buffer from the bed edge you might want.
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip.
iii) The mesh_min X value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical.
---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage.
iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the coordinate from 2.a.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical.
---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage.
v) i.e. my probe offsets are X-34, Y-5, my bed is 235x235, I chose a 10mm buffer. For mesh_max X that's 235 + (-34) - 10 and Y it's 235 + (-5) - 10, or 191,220. For mesh_min we keep it symmetrical with X 235 - 191 and for Y 235 - 220, or 44,15.
2b) for right/front probes:
i) The mesh_min X value should will be your nozzle X offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip.
ii) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.a.ii. above.
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip.
iii) The mesh_max X value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.b.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical.
---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.
iv) The mesh_min Y value will be the the bed size minus the value from 2.b.ii. above to make the mesh symmetrical.
---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the origin.
2c) for left/back probes:
i) The mesh_min Y value should be the nozzle Y offset plus any buffer from the bed edge you might want.
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip.
ii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.a.i. above.
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the travel limit before the probe tip.
iii) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.a.iii. above.
---- The probe tip will reach the origin before the nozzle carriage.
iv) The mesh_max Y value should be your bed size minus the value from 2.c.i. above to make the mesh symmetrical.
---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.
2d) for right/back probes:
i) The mesh_min X value is calculated the same as 2.b.i. above
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip.
ii) The mesh_min Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.i. above
---- The nozzle carriage will reach the origin before the probe tip.
iii) The mesh_max X value is calculated the same as 2.b.iii. above
---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.
iv) The mesh_max Y value is calculated the same as 2.c.iv. above
---- The probe tip will reach the bed edge before the nozzle carriage reaches the travel limit.
About time man. Klipper reigns supreme!
I've taken way too long for this, I'm sorry.
@@TeachingTech How did Klippers thermal heater protection hold up?
I feel its necessary to mention youre not limited to 1 control board, 1 of my printers runs 2 boards controlling 7 steppers haha.
I could swear the motors on a cr10 i have run quieter with klipper than when i tried marlin
@@Boboo5 This is my experience as well on my Ender 3. It is quite substantially quieter.
@Boboo5 Voron 2.x?
@@loban4243 Just a 2.1 ha
You have the patience of a saint, great video. I am hoping I can use this on my printerbot simple metal since I already use Octoprint.
I see Klipper is out for the Ender 3 v2. Can you do an update?
You can install klipper on any machine out there, it is just an example config. To use klipper with Ender V2 follow the steps from this video, then download example config for Ender 3 V2 and rename it to printer.cfg (and of course upload it to a pi).
Heads up for anyone wanting to try this, it seems you do in fact need to flash a bootloader first so it isn't as simple as just doing everything through the Pi.
can I flash a bootloader with the raspberry pi? I saw a vid of a bloke doing it on a ender 2 so it seems I should be able to, right? I already have the Pi so it seems like if I could do that it would be cheaper than having to buy the uno...
@@jdeefpv2655 yes, you do need jumper cables though
@@jdeefpv2655 did you have any luck with this? I'm wanting to do it for my ender 5 pro (using rasp pi 3b+)
Big fan of the channel and the usual thoroughness of the content. That said, this video seemed more of a "how to" rather than "should you" video. That is, it lacked any before/after comparison of any print variables. What shortcoming is addressed by installing Klipper and when does that shortcoming typically present itself any any given system. Large, somewhat ambiguous, question; true. That may be the reason for the video being a "how to" but this one does seem different in that regard from others in this channel.
Way beyond my pay grade Michael but you are doing amazing. Lots of great videos, you are working hard.
I started using Klipper before it had auto-leveling and printer screen support and it was worth it even then, 250 mm/s printing circles and curves using 8 bit board :)
This channel has the best instructional content.
Thanks so much for your efforts!
- Voultar
Wow !!! I have a print going on myender 5 and am installing rails on my CR-10. I most likely will attempt this one. Thanks
Thank you for this guide!
Great video Michael, thank you for dedicating your time and making the 3D Printing community better. Also, on the commands shouldn't be CD to enter the directory and CD.. to exit the directory? on the handy cheat sheet on the right it says CH. Thanks again.
You should make a video of the Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 (silent drivers!) + Klipper. Switched from Ender 3 stock -> Ender 3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Marlin 2 -> Ender 3 + SKR mini e3 + Klipper. Klipper looks *very* promising.
Since this video a lot of instructions became obsolete in the Klipper configuration. Can you post an updated version of this file for Ender 3 with bltouch and creality (Silent) boards?
Same problem. Stuck at "avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6e" while flashing.
Turns out we need to first flash the board with a bootloader. This requires opening the case :/
Creality Silent Board 1.1.5 uses TMC2208 in Standalone Mode and is NOT compatible with Klipper!!! (that's what Kevin OConner says)
I know it, because I finally found out why my extruder doesn't work properly :-(
@@natanlieds4468 I need to do this in order ro make ANY modification, it is a must
@@onairtotheworld Good to know.
It would have been really nice to see some prints or printing at the end. So that we know whether or not there is a point to this.
Either it prints or it doesn’t. What I mean is, showing prints wouldn’t have added anything to the video
@@peterwmdavis Not true.... there are huge advantages to using klipper once set up right. Seeing the results of a print side by side and noting the speed at which they can be printed is massive. You can print higher quality *and faster* with Klipper than you can with Marlin.
@@peterwmdavis I think you have misunderstood the whole point of using klipper.
Using Klipper for months now on my Ender 3 with mks gen 1.4. Very happy with it. Have configured it to include bltouch and controlled fans for board and hotend.
Runs like crazy, love it.
Too bad, the octoprint plugin looks orphaned....
I didn't understand the advantages over stock, could you explain please, thanks
Hi, I'm running klipper as well on my stock ender 3 and have some trouble with pressure advance (currently set to 0.725). Could you share your pressure advance settings ? thank you :)
@@polhomarkho5229 I am running a direct extruder. So my settings might not be matching your use case.
if you end up fighting the printer.cfg remember to put in the direct location of the serial port!
eg.. for my CR-10S: (found using ls -l /dev/serial/by-id in PUTTY)
[mcu]
baud: 115200
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT232R_USB_UART_AO000V8E-if00-port0
pin_map: arduino
Then go into OctoPrint setup (gear in upper RIGHT) and under serial connection general, make sure '/tmp/printer' is selected and you type /tmp/printer in the 'Additional Serial Ports'. You MUST reboot the system after changing for it to take effect... Took me 3 hours to figure out because of a mis-type but it does work.
Any klipper install walk thrus for the SKR Mini E3 V2 on the ender 3? C:
ua-cam.com/video/T5TGLleu3MA/v-deo.html this is the one i used, sadly its not for ender 3 but a good portion of the video applies to you, if youre using the bl touch then follow the guide here for the config after setting up this.
What's the purpose of using Klipper when you have more than enough processing power?
@@monono954 most people that look to push a printers Max speed choose Klipper instead of Marlin. It's more capable in those situations.
Looks very informative, but way over my head!
hello i have problem 6:14 the terminal tell me make: *** [src/avr/Makefile:32:flash] error 1 how to solve?
At 13:22 you said you have to do the probe setting manually. Maybe they did not have it a year ago. But now it is dead simple to get the exact positioning with a built in command.
It's 3yrs later, is this all still applicable?
Yes
Very detailed how, but not much about why. If you don't already have a raspberry pi it's an expensive option. Do you get better prints? Are they faster?
It is possible to run it on a Pi Zero. Prints are faster and better quality for me.
TutelarSword Kind of, 32 bit boards still run Marlin. Klipper claims to use better algorithms for movement to get better results than Marlin. I’m sure TT will tell us more in the next video.
Another cool thing you can do with klipper is use run more than one control board as a MCU, and expand what you can control. So for example you could use your old creality Melzi board plus a SKR or MKS board and have the combined sensors and extruders of both controlled and synchronized through the firmware on the Pi.
@@Dave_the_Dave This.
Also not having to fiddle with ArduinoIDE or Platform IO whenever I want to update the firmware. Klipper is developed very actively so it pays to check the github repo for features being added. It doesnt get major release fanfare like marlin and sometimes good stuff sneaks in under the radar.
Updating the firmware is done from the console and takes a couple of minutes and doesn't require me to mess with a separate compiler.
@@PrintedStupid Major releases.. github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/releases
But no one uses them...
I jusk checked the Printhat but at €92 I really don't see a reason to purchese it.
Yup... Too expensive for almost no hardware. You can buy a 64bit nvidia jetson nano with that pricetag and work with that...
this hat is a reap off. no need for this a good skr v1.3 with removable drivers will do better than any hat with tmc2130 smd drivers... and for this price I will be opting for the skr with tmc5160!!
@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel Are you aware of anyone doing this and could you point out a link to examples? I happen to have a developer kit but lack the programing experience to know where to start. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I believe the proper homing of an individual axis syntax is G28 X, not G28 X0 as shown in the video. So if you wanted X and Y: G28 X Y
Next video will be skr v1.3 and tmc drivers ?
Hey i see the X3D board in the background, that's awesome.
I'm going in to see Mark today and i'll let him know.
Wow, interesting approach
Thanks for sharing👍😀
I'll be interested to see your video about the PrintHat...I bought one a month ago, tested it and ended up sending it back. It's a good idea but in the end I couldn't get it to work correctly with Klipper on my Ender 3. I emailed their support on various occasions but they weren't able to help either. I previously had Klipper running well on my Ender 3 with a Fysetc F6 board at a third of the cost.
install octoklipper plug-in in octoprint, very important and useful
Agreed. It's covered in the video.
I find that i cant keep my PI running without it disconnecting so the klipper option would be bound to fail surely. I've got a SKR board to fit so I might try it then. I do like the idea of the speed . Thanks for another informative video Michael.
Try connecting it using serial pins instead of USB
@@yetanotherPC Thanks for the tip Phil It keeps disconnecting from the WIFI it's a 3B+ . Its not the printer connection thats the issue. My CR 10 s and Ender 3 both do it. It could possibly be my WIFI........I will have to do some tests on HOTPSPOTS versus Home WIFI etc. Thanks for the interest
@@markvreeken That shouldn't affect your print. It will only affect the website which you monitor it from - As long as the connection between RPI and Printer is there, then the print will continue.
@@markvreeken Did you install octopi image? Run "apt update && apt upgrade -y" it ships with trash wifi config that doesn't auto reconnect on drops
Octoprint and octopi are terribly made software, not much competition there is the github.com/Stephan3/dwc2-for-klipper out there as well
Can you update this tutorial, I have an elder 3 pro that shipped with the 4.2.2 board and has a bltouch pluged in the dedicated port and where the z_end_stop used to be and I’ve been having such a hard time installing klipper and it has become very frustrating, can you please do an updated version
Very interested in the follow-up - i.e. can you get better and/ or faster prints with Klipper?
thank you very much for this video. its exactly what i was after. im looking forward to the next in the sequence to see what ya results are. this really does seem like the smarter move. i am not a fan of doing all the heavy processing work on the wee micro in the printer. the reason we cant print over USB apparently is because the wee 8bit boards are too limited to transfer the gcode in a timely manner and print. when i go to raspi on my mk3 i think i will investigate klipper
Nice vid. I cannot get the Ender 5 Plus stock screen to work with Klipper. Show only the Klipper logo.
Hello, maybe you have a video of the installation of klipper for the geeetech A20M printer
Great instructional video .....
I followed all the steps, but I do not have that tune option on the printer and would like to add it.
I recently set up Klipper with my Ender 3 with an MKS Gen L and UART 2208s. So far I struggle to tune PA with the Bowden setup and my desired acceleration (>1000mm/s^2) because of the extruder skipping steps at higher speeds (100 mm/s). Seeing your success with direct drive I am considering upgrading to one.
I am only running the default acceleration but can confirm zero skipping with my direct drive mounted ezr.
@@TeachingTech I just hope I don't get too severe ringing with a direct drive. I plan on just printing an adapter for experimentation.
Which one would get better print quality and speed, Klipper with Raspberry Pi or Marlin on 32bit SKR Mini E3?
I also was wondering the same thing!
With the proper slicer settings for each hardware configuration, I bet the difference will be minimal to negligible.
The original Ender 3 mainboard using the ATMega 1284p microcontroller, it makes sense to move the G-code crunching over to something more powerful.
But the SKR boards using the more powerful STM32 32-bit microcontrollers it really doesn't make that much sense to offload the G-code crunching. At this level, the limitations are on the hardware side such as the steppers themselves, frame stability, rollers, bowden tubes etc. These limitations cannot be circumvented with any microcontroller performance upgrades.
I use the SKR 32 bit board with a fully-fledged firmware such as Marlin, and use Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi just to get the whole web interface convenience.
I always have the options to have the printer operate in standalone mode, or with Octoprint hooked up. I'm not locking myself to one solution only.
Klipper can be totally better configured than Marlin. Pressure advance, S-curve are highly customizable. Plus it works better with octoprint - no need to print off the sd card.
That gasp at 4:36 lol
You are doing great work. Love your channel. Keep it up. I have an Anet A8 mainboard and the SD card slot stopped working. I was wondering if I could use Klipper on a Rasberry Pi to run the Anet A8 board and utilize the Pi to load files to the printer.
Hey Michael! First of all, thanks for a really great channel! As i can't get neither my TMC5160 or TMC2130 to run at all, and I can't find any examples for how to run these drivers properly on Klipper, I would like to ask you to do a tutorial about it? Thanks again for a super channel!
Thank. Very good tuto. Does this would work on the voxelab aquila ?
What tool did you use to visualize the probing areas that you were showing. It looks handy!
Did you find the tool already ? I am also interested in this
Octoprint's Bed Visualizer plugin - it reads the recorded mesh from the EEPROM. Of course, you first have to develop the mesh in order for the plugin to visualize it for you.
Looks to have been an update in the code and docs since your video. It now uses a command that will print a taller part with stepped PA changes every few mm.
it dosent need the "look ahead time" part anymore, right?
I have been watching a lot of videos on modifications to the Ender 3 pro. I was wondering which board or board combinations you like best.
I know you didn't ask me, but In my opinion the best board for the money for the e3 is the skr1.3 paired with a raspberry pi if you're gonna use marlin and octoprint. If you're gonna use klipper I'd say an MKS gen L would be a better choice since there's no point having 32 bit on the board if you're just offloading everything to the raspberry pi. I like the 1.3 better than the SKR mini e3 because it's a little less finicky and it has options for expansion. Like for me, I use 2 z stepper motors each with their own driver. That way I can take advantage of marlin's auto-align-z feature.
But the absolute best board is gonna be the duet wifi 2. Although at that point you're putting in a mainboard that costs almost as much as the printer. So there's that.
@@WrexShepard Thank you sir. I am new to 3d printing. Every little bit helps
@@fredberry2394 keep in mind, every board I listed besides the skr mini e3 requires a printed mounting solution. The reason the skr mini e3 is popular is it uses the same mounting as the stock mainboard. So if you want something you can just drop in with the least effort, get an SKR mini e3 with the TMC2209s
I dont like it as much as the SKR 1.3 because it has non replaceable stepper drivers and it has a few quirks, but it's the easiest upgradeable board to install by far. So ask yourself what's important. Ease of install vs expandibility and future proofing.
I am most certainly interested in the MKS gen L. I don't have a problem getting to know that board. I also have dual z motors so that will definitely help.
@@fredberry2394 That's a good choice if you're going to use klipper since it's essentially a arduino mega2560+RAMPS board with enough stepper driver slots to do what you need. I recommend the bigtreetech TMC2208/9 stepsticks to go along with it.
Since you are running Klipper, do you really need the add inboard for the BLTouch or a filament run-out sensor? The Pi has extra unused IO pins. Can you connect straight to those?
You coulb, but klipper makes it extremely easy to add these things. For most of those thing there are already example configurations.
Pi is not realtime
Another Teaching Tech gem!!! I have an Ender 3 with a BLTouch, but I just upgraded to the 1.1.5 "Silent" board. Do I need to change anything from these instructions to work with my setup?!
Hey!! I know I am super late on this but I was wondering if it is possible to set up klipper on a pi that has multiple instances of octoprint on it. I use a single pi to control 2 printers and would like to put klipper on one printer only if that is possible!! I feel like it would be because I would be using putty or other program to ssh into that specific printers main board to make the changes but I don't know if running multiple instances would cause any issues. Thanks for all your videos they are always so helpful!
Cant seem to get passed the step you describe in minute 8:56 of your video.Keep getting this message. Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Unable to connect
Love the videos, and in depth but easy to follow explainations! However, The camera's autofocus has been really bugging me, Can it me set to manual? Love the channel!
I've thought about it but I can't adjust it and sit in position at the same time
Hey... I'm new to 3D printing but have learnt a *lot* in the last 3 weeks... this is a steep learning curve! I spent 184 UKP on the original Ender 3 (not V2-- not Pro).. and have probably spent the same amount again on upgrades! *chuckles* ... I now have it printing pretty much reliably... In all my research over the last 3 weeks I'd never heard Klpper being mentioned... so I'm wondering... 3 years after this video was made (now 2022).. is this still a practical "upgrade"? I'm already using a self-compiled 2.1 marlin firmware and a Pi4... I am wondering what firmware people with more experience than I are using these days... thanks for any advice!
Worth noting. If you are running a silent board with 2208s, klipper does not play well. Noted on the klipper github, the 2208s default UART mode runs into a bit too much granularity in klipper and will stop the 2208s in their tracks mid print when trying to run pressure advance. Without pressure advance enabled the 2208 on the extruder plays well.
Are You running original Creality v 1.15 board ?
@@MrSardach I am running 1.1.4 with tmc 2208. The 1.1.5 would be the same scenario though.
Excellent instructional video. I would love to do this for my Anycubic Chiron, but they don't have the cfg for it. I'll look further into it. What kind of speed improvements are people getting? I've found printing with OctoPrint tends to drastically increase print time. Maybe this is the cure!
yes someone said that to me too.
Sorry for the noob question but do you have to put a bootloader on the ender 3 board before uploading the klipper firmware?
ender 5+ and I think we do as I got an error on the make flash part. ..rabbit hole took me back to the Klipper community and there I found we need to create a boot loader with Adruino ... that would have been a nice thing to add at the beginning wouldn't you think..
Hi Michael. Great VDO. However, if you put on the VDO that we need bootloader first before flash klipper to Ender 3 board would be great. I forgot the step and forgot to put 10uF on Arduino (RST & GND) that take me hours.
Klipper is not aimed at those new to 3D printing. Klipper is for those who would like to make their 3D printer the best it can be. Klipper is also the default firmware for the Reprap project, Voron.
Well that was easy... (rolleyes) Actually, it WAS relatively painless, but the Bootloader install was tough for someone with no Arduino knowledge.
I eventually got it all installed and working.
Quick question; How do I go about installing Klipper on a second Ender 3 Pro. (It arrived yesterday) All the files are now already on the Pi, so how do I go about putting it on the new printer? I'm thinking (hoping) that I won't need to go right back to the beginning of this tutorial? (I'll have to find the bootloader install tutorial video though...)
Also, once you install Klipper, can I still print from a MicroSD card?
Did you find out if you can print from a SD card? Wondering the same thing
Can you still run OctoPrint with that configureration?
Yes they work together, plug n shown in this video.
You have to run OctoPrint to use Klipper.
Great Video, been hoping you would cover this. My daughter calls you my Teacher lol. Is the 3d Printer Mainboard on the stock Firmware?
You flash a Kilpper firmware on the printer, it's covered in the video.
people are just used to doing things the hard way I guess.
So basically if I have Ender 3 without BL-touch and I am into buying original one and installing it for a first time, basically second half of the video is also an tutorial how to get BL-touch working together with Klipper right ?
Thank you!
Right. Though it is important to note that you can do Manual Mesh Leveling with Klipper too. I did this and while it's a little annoying process wise, it does help a lot. I found best results by setting up the BED_SCREWS_ADJUST offsets and doing that first with just the least amount of friction on the paper I could feel. Then doing the mesh and making sure my position_min on the Z axis is at least -0.5 (-1 would be safer). Then I did a 5x5 grid because 3x3 wasn't enough on my printer to compensate for the low spot in the middle. That was by far the best way for me to handle the bed leveling without the BL-Touch given the low spot in the middle of my build plate.
Thanks for this video. I am just waiting the delivery of the DD kit for my Ender 3 pro and with my BLTouch that will copy your configuaration and so Klipper should be good to go......
Also, I have been looking at board upgrades as well. Now your video has opened my eyes to another option.... printer improvement through Klipper (I love the way I can go back to the macros of my youth to control regular actions/stuff) and a simple board upgrade to the Creality 1.1.5 silent board with TMC 2208 drivers. I assume that I will have to alter some stuff in the config for the drivers but no doubt there will be help somewhere on-line.
What did I do before superfast cable broadband?
awesome
Klipper looks awesome, excited to try it!
Great video! Would be possible to install Klipper on a windows environment running octoprint?
Not 100% sure but I think it needs to run on a Linux platform, not necessarily in octoprint.
Escelent tutorial!
One dummy question:
Once you install kippler, you can only print having the PI connected, right?
in case I disconect the PI, is it going to be possible to print just using the printer board?
klipper integrates the raspberry pi into the processing of the printer. with most firmware, the microCONTROLLER, which is your standard board like arduino/ramps, skr, duet, etc, processes all the information and then sends it to the hardware of the printer. with klipper, the processing is offloaded to a microPROCESSOR, in this case a raspi, and all the fully processed instructions are sent to the board whose only job is relaying those instructions to the machine at the right time. removing the raspberry pi takes away a core component of this setup, which means that your main board (the arduino, skr, duet, etc) most likely would still have all of the components it needs to run the printer, but would probably be incompatible with klipper. in this case you would most likely just want to switch to one of the other firmwares that are built around only using a controller board, like marlin or reprapfirmware.
Do you still use Klipper or octaprint?
PLEASE allign your TT infinity mirror - i can't see it anymore not alligned horizontal -.-
Nice video anyway :D
Not sure about skr but official creality 32 bit boards like 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 comes with ARM not Atmega so there you will choose one of Stm processors
i know this is a old video but could you do a cr-10s pro with klipper upgrade? there are no internet videos on it ... i got me half ass working but would love to see you do a demo
thanks
very, very interesting....
Theoretically Klipper also works with the skr 1.3 but I was having a hard time getting that set up.
If you have any tips that'd be very helpful.
A lot of people have problems with that, but since it's already 32bit, why klipper over marlin? It can run standalone just fine
@@stealthninja1o112 I prefer klipper for some things, like macros and expanding it with python. Marlin works but is cumbersome in my opinion.
SKR 1.3 can be a chore due to how BTT did the bootloader. I had to copy the bin file from the pi to the SD card on the board by hand the first time I installed it in order to get it to load properly.
@@PrintedStupid Yeah I had to do that too. But I was never able to get the 1.3 to talk to klipper. I'll take another look at it soon though
I was wondering if I'd have to revert to original/stock firmware (typically modded Ender3) before integrating this Klipper/rPi shift -- so now I am wondering if I understood correctly: the answer is ?NO? @1:25 I heard "nothing that requires adjustment of the firmware" or something like that (sorry, my Aussie interpreter runs on an 8 bit Z80 machine running CP/M)
What I have to decide is which rPi to try first - but THIS sounds like FUN!
So what's the bottom line re firmware?
What is better raspberry pi or skr1.2 for ender 3?? Thanks