Still helpful this tutorial in 2024, recently updated my Tornado with the 2208 and LV driver, bit of a 'problem' now, I don't hear the printer anymore except the fans what a improvement. Didn't change the firmware because it worked great with the current firmware and don't want to have surprises that cost me hours to solve. I changed the direction of the steppers on the connector, easy to do. Thanks for posting this!!
This video along with your firmware update video was really helpful and allowed me to upgrade my motor drivers to the TMC 2208 in my green Tevo Tornado that came with a MKS Gen L V1 Board! Thanks for the help!
The board that came in my Tornado is the same board that you show in your video. The Board I’m installing is MKS Gen L V1.0 with TMC2208 V1.0 drivers in XYZ. 8729 in the Extruder. Yes the Heat sink fan is 12V it was plugged in to - FAN + on the OEM board. The 24V fan for the nozzle was plugged in to EO+ and E1- on the OEM board. The 2 24V fans in the control box was plugged in to EO+ and E1- with the nozzle fan on the OEM board. A13 and A14 are on the OEM board. MKS board has +TH2- , +TR- , +TH1-. All 3 are different colors. Hop this info helps you tell me where wires go to the MKS board. Thanks And don’t stop you super videos. NOTE: I did a hotend mod on the fans moths ago. the mod cald for 2 fans, one 24V 50mm blower fan, and 1 12V noctua A- series MF-A4x10 FLX 40mm blades with AAO frame SSO2 bearing premium fan. I tested The 12V fan, It is OK. Dale
Thanks for posting this, I was totally unaware of the different versions of the LV8729 drivers, I have got some which I hope to use on a gen L for my delta - thanks again and have just sub'd
Thank you so much for this video. It was a very helpful work. I have a question. What is the name of the white sticky part you used between motherboard and case? Thank you.
Hi, Those plastic parts are called standoffs. They are easy to find in any electronic store. You can also find them on ebay, aliexpress, etc ...here's an example: pt.aliexpress.com/item/MTGATHER-100-PCS-HC-5-Nylon-Plastic-Stick-On-PCB-Spacer-Standoff-3mm-Hole-Support-Locking/32793176367.html
Ruiraptor Just a suggestion that might help some people that want to upgrade using the latest firmware (you may want to add it into the description OR do a 'follow up' video). The later versions of the firmware, 1.1.8 and above (could be lower number than that, but I used 1.1.8 cause it was the latest stable release, but could be as far back as 1.1.6) have been condensed and fine tuned for better printing and steps etc. One of the improvements they made was to make the firmware more compact, to do this they re-wrote a lot of the code that repeats into a statement in the Adv H code. One of those improvements is there is a '#define X_DRIVER_TYPE A4988'. If you are going to upgrade to the TMC2208 & LV8729 you MUST change the type to TMC2208_STANDALONE (remove _STANDALONE if using UART) and the extruder to LV8729. If you do not do this, even though you have correctly reversed the direction, the board still 'thinks' they are A4988's with the old steps. This means it may print dimensionally accurately BUT if you set it to print at 60mm/s, it will actually move at 120mm/s (or higher). After swearing at slicers (Cura, S3D, Slic3r etc) and pulling apart the printer and rechecking the jumpers and god knows what else I attempted, I finally found this in the firmware. Once I changed it, bingo. Perfect prints. Also, and this is more commonly known, in the Tornado versions of the firmware it has been set incorrectly with the bed size 300x320. But this is a very simple thing to solve like lowering the accel and jerk. But yeah, after more than a week or two of mucking about with this, I changed that, re-tuned the vref and its now printing perfectly and almost completely silent bar the sound of the fans.
@@ruiraptor I grabbed all files from the Tevo Tornado Facebook group. There isn't really a firmware file for 1.1 (I think it's actually one of the older files in the file section just called TornadoFirmwareUpdate or something, but no mention of it being 1.1) There are zips of 1.1.4 up to 2.0. I was told 1.1.8 was most recent reliable stable so went with that, anything prior to this version might be unaffected by the issues I ran into, can't say because I have not had a chance to check them yet (that was my next option if the #define didn't solve it, was going to roll back to earlier versions)
That information might be correct because the version I'm running does not have the TMC2208 or LV8729 option and I'm not having any issues for not changing any driver lines. I will download a few versions and make some tests. Thanks
Ah yeah, forgot to mention that. Thanks for the addition and I am super glad it helped. I wasnt aware of it and wow did it ever cause me problems. I was getting filament fed at the wrong rate (setting it to 60mm/s was printing at 120mm/s and things like that) and was causing me all kinds of headaches. So yeah, glad the info is out there and helping other Makers out. Cheers
yes all you video help a lot! it s not like all others channel..yours give us really good improvement and really well made! and i know all time it take you to make this kind of video....keep this way all is perfect
Hi ruiraptor. Does the new board and drivers get rid of the salmon skin artifacts? Have you noticed any other improvements in print quality after upgrading the board and drivers vs the original board? I'm doing research in preparation of buying my first 3D printer. I'm very technologically savvy and have built many computers and went to school for electronics/electrical. I'm considering this printer primarily for the heated bed, build volume, and cr-10 style frame which should make upgrades and parts easy to find. Other printers I'm considering are the JGAroura A5, Anycubic i3 mega, and creality ender 3. Do you have any recommendations or words of wisdom apart from the obvious build volume differences? The JGAurora A5 and the i3 mega are both prusa stule i3 frames with dual z motors along with other features, but they don't seem nearly as upgradeable as the cr-10 style frames.
Hi David, Great set of questions :) For the driver issue and salmon skin, i suggest you to read and watch my video talking about it ( ua-cam.com/video/78fonMoXRuA/v-deo.html ). But to give you a quick overview, the salmon skin effect is present in DRV8825, Allegro A4982, HR4982 and (although less noticeable) the A4988. The TMC drivers (such as 2208, 2100, etc) don't have this issue. In the video i mention above, there is a link to a page (the page was deleted but you can still reach it using internet archive) that explains why the drivers suffer from this. Regarding the printers, you mention the ender-3 (you have the similar Tevo flash) and the CR-10 (similar to the Tevo tornado). The tevo ones have a better advantage, in my opinion, thanks to the AC bed. This is an awesome feature. The bed heats up to 70 degrees in less than a minute (in the tevo flash) and it's more stable. Both tevo printers have glass on the bed too. The flash also has a much better layer cooling fan compared with the ender-3. These are the most evident differences. If you have faceboook, you can look into the forums and see what they can do and what other users talk about each one. With the tornado, i have good results. The recent version already has the MKS GEN L board so you only need the drivers upgrade and print a high performance fanduct, so it might be the better choice considering it has a bigger print volume too.
Great video. What do you base that LV8729 drivers is best for extruder on? Already ordered two of them for my printer, based on your statement. But would like to hear why. Kind Regards.
Hi Kenni, The TMC drivers don't work well with rapid direction transitions. Also, that rapid transitions can make them stall. If that happens, the driver will stop and will not resume until you stop the print and shut it down. The LVs don't stall that easily and even if they do, they don't stop like the TMCs. They keep on working and, at best, they will only skip steps. This will allow you to continue with the print.
Hi, thanks for sharing, i have this printer and show up the problem that the bed temperature shows 70 degrees alwais.... The termistor Is fine, i check with a new one and do not work. Do you know some thing similar to this??? I already order a new board but i dont know how yo change It. The Arduino thing Is the most fear part
How did you determine your "I" value(.85 and .5/1.1) for the stepper driver formulas? I ask, in case, I want to perform this same procedure on a different machine. Thanks
Hi Colin, For linear drivers such as the Allegro for example, you will want to have the output current close to the optimal current of your stepper motor. For non linear drivers such as the TMC, you can use a lower output current value as they perform perfectly well and also, since the tmc run very hot, that is also something to take into account. You can eventually tune them "while running" as you adjust the current for a conservative value and evaluate the performance and increase if you need to.
Does this work on the new MKS GEN L V2.1? I'm very noob to this, my tornado has the old board, I have it for more than 2 years now and I want to upgrade the board. I see that there are TMC2209 aswell now, are they better? Do I install them the same way? Muito obrigado por seus vídeos amigo, pergunto em inglês para que outros com a mesma dúvida tenham também a resposta.
Hi "ruiraptor" !! Just wanted to say thanks, you made a confusing upgrade very easy! I know very little about stepper drivers. A couple of questions though.... 1/. why do we change the jumpers to run the drivers in 1/16 ? Is this a better mode, or just your preference? 2/. I have been fighting a ghosting problem with no good results, I even removed the squash-ball feet I made to cut down vibrations, thinking that when installed, they made everything move around too much. You stated (lower down the comments).... "You can use acceleration= 800 & jerk=8. These settings will prevent ghosting issues. If you use an extra glass over the heatbed, you might need to reduce a little bit more." Well I have a 6mm MIC6 Cast aluminum bed with 3mm borosilicate glass on top, so my Y axis is pretty heavy. I changed acceleration to 800, and I changed Y-Jerk to 8 but left X-jerk at 10. Will this be okay, or should I lower something to remove the ghosting problem I have? (Haven't tested new settings yet). Thanks again for this video!!
Hi Compu Majix, Good questions. Check the answers below: 1- Different drivers have different jumper configurations so you need to add/remove the jumpers according. With an 8bit microcontroller, I prefer to run the drivers at 1/16 (which is the same with the stock A4988 drivers). 2- It seems that you, in fact, have a lot of weight on that Y axis. That will create a big and terrible inertia. Did you remove the stock glass bed?
Hi again.... 1/. Thank you. 2/. Yes I completely removed the bed because I cracked it at two of the mounting holes trying to attach an upgrade and ruined it, so I decided to pull the heating pad from underneath, then instead of a replacement from Tevo, I had an MIC6 replacement made (what a nightmare.....the company I chose tried 3 times to drill the holes for the tramming screws before getting them in the correct locations, and the thinnest I could find was 6mm), then attached the heating pad to the bottom of the MIC6 and installed it. I added the glass for easier print removal, I hate the tape idea and glass makes better bottom layers in my opinion. Perfectly level bed and a dream to tram! I realize I will have to change the acceleration and jerk settings, and print a lot slower than the Tornado is usually capable of, but the better quality parts are made at a slower speed anyway, I print slow on my heavily upgraded Anet A8 (first learning printer, now I have my Tevo, and I'm going to build a Voron 2.1 from scrach for a corexy)....around 20mm/s for outside walls, 40mm/s infill & inside walls. I'm testing your new settings shortly. Any more advice as to lowering the settings to get rid of the ghosting ? Should I also lower the X-jerk to 8? I already checked the frame for loose parts, and tightened the belts with my belt tensioners (although I can't find a way to test for the right belt tension anywhere, just advice to tighten by feel, well I don't have a clue how tight is right so how will feeling them tell me anything? They feel tight, but is it too tight or not enough? LOL !! I also added the frame brace. Thanks again for any help you can give me. I really appreciate the time you take to read my questions and offer advice! I look forward to the day that I'll be giving the advice. LOL !! Majix
Hello rui, which jerk and accelaration are correct for Torando with this board and drivers ? Do you use settings of acceleration in your slicer (cura for example) or disable it and let firmware default ? thanks.
Hi Christian, I normally disable the motion control in the slicer and use only the settings in the firmware. You can use acceleration= 800 & jerk=8. These settings will prevent ghosting issues. If you use an extra glass over the heatbed, you might need to reduce a little bit more.
Hi, The TMC2130 is a great driver which includes many more features compared with the 2208. However, they are a little bit more difficult to setup. In my case, i don't see the need for the extra features..but that's me talking :D
Hi! I'm planning to build a Ender 3 with quite a few modifications and I'm curious about how/why the LV8729 is better for the extruder than the TMC2208? (Thinking getting the MKS Gen L, E3D hotend/extruder for the Ender 3) Any thoughts on the StepStick Protector modules to put underneath the drivers? Oh, and a related question. I notice the vast majority of TMC2208's out there are v1.0, but I've also seen rev 1.1, 1.2 ands I think 1.3. KNow anything about the differences for them and which ones to get?
Hi Thomas, The TMCs cannot handle very well fast direction changes such as the retractions from the extruder and that's why the LV is used instead. Regarding the protectors, to be honest, i don't have any thoughts. It's just one of those things i don't use and not thinking on using. Regarding the driver version, it should be related with the module itself. You can check the chip datasheet and check.
Hello! I got the same board and drivers like you got but I'm confused with what VRef should I use and found your video. I wonder how did you came up with the values for I (Current) for X/Z of 0.85A and for Y of 0.9A? Do you have a formula for that too? Thanks!
Hi, There is no formula to find the stepper motor current. The stepper motors used in the tevo tornado and tevo tarantula are rated max current between 1.3A and 1.5A. However, i don't want to use that much current because i don't want to have the motors pushed to the limit and i also don't want to have the drivers to heat up more than i have to. The drivers run very hot and if you use more current than what you need, they get hot without any purpose and you risk getting missing steps due to thermal shutdown....so you adjust from the bottom up. I found that the ideal currents are the ones i mentioned in the video. With these currents/Vrefs, i get good results.
The pieces between the cables for the motors that you put the heat sinks on. Mine I got are different and have the circuitry on top. There is no other place to put them. Any suggestions
Thank for this detailed vid, it helped me a lot when installing TMC2100 for XYZ, now I am about to replace the DRV8825 I have running the extruder with a LV8729 stepper driver (a newer model to LC8727 maybe) Questions: Do you have a value I could use for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. The stepper driver is a LERDGE with R220 resistors, I will have the VREF set to1.43v according to calcs I believe the 1/64 or 1/128 stepping is best, but with the Gen Lv1.0 on the extruder which did you use? Would it be safer to go for 1/64? Would it make sense to remove the pin for MS1 in order to force 1/64 steps? I'm not sure about the high/low info regarding caps, I do not see anythign solderable or any removaable caps THANKS!
Hi, The steps_per_unit depend on which stepping setup you use, for example, if you use 1/16 (same as the stock driver) the steps/mm are the same. If you change to 1/32, you have to double the steps/mm and so on. I'm running my LV8729 at 1/16. You can use 1/32 too. Any higher stepping might be too much for the 8bit board.
Hello Rui I just installed an MKS Gen1.4 board with the same drivers that you showed in your videos, I have also installed the second Z motor but I don't know if the V-ref should be changed. I used the CR-10 upgrade kit for the double Z so basically I have a single cable on the board that splits in the 2 motors. Thank you for your help, your videos are amazing.
Hi Yuri, The cable you have for the dual Z is a parallel or serial cable? My bet is a parallel cable and if that is true, it will divide the output current between the 2 motors. Normally, the Z motors dont require too much current to move that axis and having 2 motors you can work fine with the minimum. Having said that, just adjust with my vref advice and test. Adjust a bit more only if you see issues.
I did the upgrades for these, and when I tested the motors, the X-axis moved 80mm when I told it to do 10mm and it hits the limits way before it reaches the end of the gantry. I checked the firmware, and the steps are still set at 79.96 (where I had them working before the 2208 swap). I powered down, and swapped the 2208 on the Z-motor with the one for the X, and the X is still acting the same. Obviously it's not the chip, has to be something in the firmware, but I have not figured out what else is/was changed. Any thoughts? I am using the Marlin 1.1.9 firmware, and I see a place to specify the current driver... do I need to do this (I did not see that covered in this video)?
Hi Bryan, That would be my guess. A wrong jumper configuration will set the driver to a different stepping which will require a different step/mm value. Thanks for the information.
Hi rui, as always you do nice videos, i'm going to do the same upgrade on my tarantula, so i'm wondering what is the right voltage should i set on my pancake stepper motor placed on the extruder ? thanks
Hi Felice, as i explain the the video, you should always start from the bottom up when adjusting the vrefs/currents. With that motor, i would suggest between 0.6 and 0.7Amps and go from there.
It will make it a bit less noisy. I don't know what kind of noise you are referring to but if the screws that secure the extruder are too tight, it will make more noise than it is supposed to.
Hi...orientation of the 8729s... Adjust screw face towards exp1 exp2 lcd points? Video seems to show that.. They arent labelled as well as the 2208s..dir gnd etc etc
RUI! I've seen other videos where there was a soldering involved.. specifically two spots to turn on the higher voltage (SPREAD CYCLE) setting of the drivers and splicing a resistor into the system.. Second, there was a FTDI UART chip involved. I ended up purchasing all of that but I do not see you utilizing it. What am I missing here? thanks!
Hi, There are other TMC drivers on the market and some must be configured by soldering the small pads. The TMC 2100 in one of those examples. But i think you are referring to the UART mode. For that, you need to unsolder and flip some of the pins on the TMC2208 so that you can access the UART pins in order to change some specific modes. If you plan on working with the TMC2208 as is (stealthchop mode), you only need to select and configure the stepping with the jumpers on the board.
@ruiraptor I just got these drivers for my 2nd gen Tevo Tornado with gen L board. Did the Vrefs work out ok for yours? My motors are stock and I see wild variations in the recommended vref on youtube and message boards.
Hi Rob, the vrefs are the same since the stepper motors are also the same. The vref settings may vary according to each user but regardless of the value, you should always run a 30min print and check the stepper motor temperatures. They can be warm but never hot.
This worked great but after upgrading to a 2mm lead T8 screw, my z-axis motor doesn't seem to be able to turn most of the time. I've updated the steps per mm. Do I need to increase the VRef for Z? If so, how high can I safely go?
Hi, The TMC2208 can handle RMS currents up to 1.2A which is safe for your Z motor but it will run hotter. You can try and increase the vref but check the temperatures (driver and motor). In alternative, you can use an LV8729 driver for the Z too.
@@ruiraptor The problem turned out to be the Z homing feedrate in the firmware. It was set to 1,200 which is apparently too fast after the changes/upgrades I've made. I determined the max I can use is about 500 before it starts to slip. Thanks =)
Hi Ruiraptor, thank you for your video! Just wondering, I've read that the drivers that you suggest to use can be set both via software or using the jumpers (as you have shown). Is there any real difference between the two methods?
Hi, The advantage of having a UART (or SPI depending on the driver model) link is that you can have more control of your stepper motors by tweaking the features in firmware. If you don't care about that and just want the printer to run then you can skip this part. If you want to be able to control everything then the firmware control is better. It's a personal choice.
I did not understand one thing, I can not use the TMC2208 in the extruder? do I have to buy the LV8729 separately for this? I went to make the purchase in the link that you posted and comes MKS GEN L + 5 pcs TMC2208, do I even need to buy the LV8729 or does the TMC2208 work well in the extruder?
Hi Christian, You can use the TMC2208 for the extruder too. It's recomended to use the LV8729 instead because it can handle the fast direction changes from the retractions much better than the TMC.
Thanks so much for your tutorial. I have gone with the exact same setup. I'm interested to know why you went with 16 microsteps instead of the 256 microsteps the TMC2208 drivers support? I thought part of the benefit of having these drivers is the additional microsteps, making for better detailed prints?
Hi Stevan, The problem with having drivers setup with 1/64 or 1/128 or even 1/256 steps with an 8bit board is that the microcontroller is not fast enough. You can setup that with a 32bit board but not with an 8bit one.
Hello, with drivers 2208 and a 42hd4027-01 stepper motor (current rated 1.5A on 3.3 volts) is possible to mount these drivers? and the vref to what should be regulated? because I think this engine is too big and the vref goes undervolt, is it right?
I thought the TMC2130 was the "popular" driver these days...any reason you went 2208 instead of 2130? (It looks like a lot of wiring is needed for the 2130)
Hi, Yes...the TMC2208 is much easier to setup. The TMC2130 has nice features like sensorless endstops but i'm that kind of guy that likes to have "real" endstops :D
I have DRV8825 and A4988 drivers.. What is the jumpers / driver dependency? Not sure which resistors to measure in order to calculate vref.. .05 ohm on the a4988? For example, according to an arduino forum post (415724), for the drv8825 vref = Imax/2, and for the a4988 vref = Imax/2.5 ? Where on the MKS does motor power get to the motor (pin 16 of the driver)? For example, is it possible to run a motor at 5v assuming a driver that supports that?
Since my tevo Tornado already used a gen l 1.0 and I need to replace the board is it just simple plug and play just for replacement? Do I need to do the the jumper thingy?
Where (on the board)and how did you add the extra fan? I have the original but after upgrade to 1.1.9 it runs fast/slow/fast/slow instead of a constant speed like it used to. Don't know why that happened. I want to add a bigger fan, but don't know where to put it in order to give it constant speed (rather than splice into the original and get variable speeds). Thanks for any help.
excellent tutorial, thank you! Just got my TMC2208 in the mailbox today, starting with the replacement on the Tarantula, already have the MKS Gen-L board. One question: in the 'configuration.h' do you change the driver type from A4988 to TMC2208/LV8729?
Hi Stefan, Regarding changing the driver in the firmware, it depends on the firmware version (we mention this in the video description). If you are using the stock firmware version, you can leave as is. If you have a more recent version, the TMCs are supported and you should replace the A4988 with the TMC and LV.
Hi! I did exactly like in your video for a TTPro with LV8729 just on the extruder and TMCs on X and Y, but the extruder still makes a high pitch noise. Any ideas on how I can reduce that? I connected the TMCs with UART because I'm using Klipper. TIA
Hi there! I got two LV8729 drivers, thinking they were a better choice than stock A4988 for any axis. Also got two DRV8825, since I intented to use LV for X and Y, and DRV for Z and E0. Is that a good choice? If not I could get TMC2208, but I would like to use no more than two different drivers. Does it make sense using TMC2208 for Z? I could save some money if I used something different. Did you have to make any changes on TMC2208 (aside from firmware and jumpers)? I don't see any physical change in your video, so I wanted to get it confirmed. Some people out there are reversing a few pins on TMC2231 in order to use that SPI mode... But as far as I know 2208s can be plugged straight onto RAMPS based boards, right? Thanks in advance!
Hi Alex, Here is a quick overview of each driver to help you with your choice. LV8729 drivers are very good drivers that you can use in every axis. People don't install them on X and Y because people like to reduce the motor's noise by installing TMCs. TMCs are known to have a very good output signal and can run the motors silent but they can't handle very fast direction changes and that's the reason why the LVs are used for the extruder instead. The DRV8825 drivers are no longer used in X and Y axis due to the salmon skin effect that they produce but they can handle up to 2.5A of output current. The A4988 drivers are a better version of the A4982 but can also output salmon skin (less noticeable). Also, they cannot work in micro steppings higher than 1/16. If you are upgrading from A4988 drivers to TMCs or LVs, you only need to setup the jumpers correctly and reverse the direction in the firmware...that's it.
Hi, That is correct. With TMC drivers you will not need any smoother. Regarding the latest firmware versions, you can find them in the official tevo tornado facebook group
Hey there, awesome video and great help.. just a question here, i'm trying to do the same setup with my ender 3, however i'm in doubt.. the LV8729 is placed how? i cant fund any indication of ground on it.. the screw to adjust the vref is next to the others tmc's or on the other way? thank you in advance
Hi, The LVs header pins should have different colors. On one side they should be black and on the other side they should be colored. You can use that as a reference.
Where did you manage to find the Imax for the TEVO steppers? What I was able to get from TEVO themselves is that the Rb42SHDC6022Z-26B (Y-axis) and the Rb 42shdc4043Z-22B (E, X, & Z ) stepper motors all have the same max current of 1.5A. Also to correctly calculate the Vref for the TMC2208, you should be working with rms current (Irms). That math is as follows: Irms= Imax(max motor current)/1.41, then Vref=(Irms * 2.5)/1.77. This will give you the correct Vref for all TMC stepper drivers. p.s. I typically only ever use 90% of Vref.
Hi, from the information we received, the stepper motors are rated 1.5A and the bigger Y axis stepper motor is 1.7A. Because of the characteristics of the TMC drivers, we always adjust from the bottom up and this way preventing the drivers from overheating. There is no need to run the drivers hotter than what you need.
Hi, Thank you for your comment. This tutorial will work for any printer as long as you know the specs of the motors and adjust the vrefs/currents accordingly. Furthermore, you need to have access to the firmware so you can change the motor direction (if needed). In last resort, you can get away without it and just reverse the motor wires.
Hi Ruiraptor. Thanks for your reply. I was studying it furthermore today to make a JGAurora A3 more quiet (A4982) . I have to change the motherboard (welded drivers on a Ramps1.4) , so I'll follow your software instructions too. But I don't know the Nema17 specs. Could it be an issue ? I have to learn too if I have to configure something with the actual LCD 2004 display. Not so easy, but I progress.
I added the Dual Z Axis Kit, so I have 2 motors on my Z Stepper Driver. Do I set the VRef's the same way you have shown even though there are 2 Motors, or does it need to be higher?
Hi, You can setup the vref for the Z with the same value as i have in my video. The Z motor (especially when using 2) don't require much torque when compared with the X or Y.
Hey Rui thanks for another awesome tutorial. You seem to know what your doing so I have a prob with my tarantula. I watched your tutorial of replacing the smart controller with a graphic display and I decided to do it. I successfully configured the display, but now the hot end won’t heat..the blue light next to the E0 heating cartridge port just blinks and doesn’t stay solid...I didn’t touch anything in the firmware or the wiring..u have any ideas???
Hi Matthew, I don't know if you have a facebook account...If you do, can you please send me a PM through my page (ruiraptor)? If you don't have facebook, can you email me at ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com? This way i will be able to help you better.
Rui, would it be the same process for tarantula? On my 3d printer came the MKS Base 1.4 I'm thinking of trading for this mks gen that sells on baggood already with the drivers, will it work fine for me?
Hi Christian, yes, the procedure is the same for the tarantula except the vref value for the Y axis since the tarantula does not have a big Y axis motor. You can use the same X Vref for the tarantula X, Y and Z.
Bonjour. , Donc à ce que j ai compris c est Une nouvelle carte MKS qu on peut installer sur la Tevo Tornado , j aurait bien voulu que ce soit sous titres en français . Merci encore une bonne vidéo 👍👍👌👌😉😭
Hello Rui! Great video! I've upgraded to 2208's in my tornado as well. How do I know if they are in spread cycle versus stealth chop. I want them to be in spread cycle. How do you get them into spread cycle? Thank you and I really enjoy your videos!!
Hello Rui, I want to install a BlTouch on to my Tevo Tornado, I've already upgraded to the gen l board, but i dont know how to install a BlTouch. Could ylu male a Video about it?
Hi Terry, Thanks. The fan mod i'm using is the one i liked the most from the tests i ran with a few models. You can see those tests here: ua-cam.com/video/hoHz5LHyFUo/v-deo.html
Thanks again for the link. I have a new Tornado with the MKS board with "pluggable" drivers. I see from you video that there are several differences between it and the MKS L board. Is there any reason to upgrade my board and drivers or can I just replace the drivers?
Hi Terry, The board you have with "pluggable" drivers is the MKS GEN L (same as the one i used in the video). My tornado was one of the first and it was equipped with a MKS BASE. You already have the new board, so if you decide to upgrade the drivers, you only need the drivers.
Hi Ruiraptor, first let me start by saying I love your videos. They are very informative and helpful. I have a question for you. Why buy from Banggood and wait weeks for the order when you can order from Amazon and get it in a few days? The reason for me asking is I want to do the same upgrades to both my Tevo Tornado and my Ender 3.
Hi Jose, Good point. I honestly never bought anything from Amazon yet but i heard that Amazon does not accept paypal. I only work with paypal at the moment so that can be a blocking point.
Followed this video so many times and I still my Y motor stops mid print? My Z might be stopping at the same time as well. Stock case cooling fan, Acceleration 800, Jerk 5, vref 1.26 on Y. Running out of ideas, any advice? TIA
Hi looking to fit a MKS SGEN -L but can’t find much info, could you use the details you give for the GENL board to set up the drivers I will be using the same as you used
Something that is not, I am not aware is that for the LV8729 controller, leaving soo the MSI3, only works at 16 micro steps, should not increase them leaving the 3 bridges so that the extrusion is smoother at 128 steps? Provide the configuration as you mentioned in the video but I get very little material, leaving the line very separate. some subject? Thank you! Cristian
8 bit controller is not fast enough to create pulse for 1/32 and above.
5 років тому+1
Please, what material used as buildplate at the end of the video, I was curious. Congratulations for the content, I'm from Brazil and I just turned patreon!
I know this video is old but I am still running stock board and 1.1 marlin that came with my tornado. I have the same board that you had originally. Is there that much of an improvement in print quality to make the upgrade worth it? The sound doesn't bother me as it is in a workshop. I installed smoothers already but that print at the beginning of your video looks super smooth.
hello friend regarding the formula; Is 0.85 and 0.9 the current of the motors? In this case if I have 1.7A motors, should that amperage be placed? or what would be ideal?
Hi Fernando. Don't use the full spec current. If you do, the drivers will run too hot. The ideal way to tune these drivers is to start from the lowest value and raise while checking.
Hi, Rui! I have a couple of questions regarding this upgrade. Considering the Vref value, i found a Vref calculator online for different drivers and it says that a setting of Vref over 1.2 Volts can kill the driver. As your values are pretty close or over this value i am wondering what is yopur opinion regarding this. The next question is where do you connect the extra driver cooling fan? Kind regards, Jurij
@@ruiraptor tried everything but still the comment got deleted, but now just today i finished the upgrade with vref values from your video, and made three 47 minutes prints, and everything is perfect. I didn't have so much qualitiy issues before, but i absolutely love the noise reduction, it is amazing. Steppers did not overheat, so i guess everything is ok.
Hi my friend. For MKS gen 1.4 from MKS base, do I still need to reverse the LCD cable? I guess I have to but just want to double check. Thank you for your video. I've watched the other video of yours and learned a lot.
Hi Tylor, You will know when you connect it :) Don't worry...you will not damage the display. I had this problem the first time i connected it and i just reversed the cable and it worked.
is there any benefits tmc2130 rather than 2208, i wanna upgrade to mks gen L too witch tmc drivers 2208 newr version if im right, any difference them exclude spi/uart
The TMC2130 has a few extra features that you can play with (if interested) such as sensorless homing, for example. For more details, you can download the datasheet of the TMC2208 and TMC2130 and compare the differences.
For me, I had both and ended up using the 2208 over the 2130. Take a look at the datasheets as ruiraptor suggests. the 2208 handles a bit more power and seems, for me, to run cooler. The two features over the 2130 I don't use, but, you may have a use for them.
Would you still recommend this upgrade in 2020? I purchased this board and drivers a while back, but didn't do the upgrade at the time. Is there a print quality upgrade as well as noise?
Hi Andy, the new printers already have this board, so if you have the new printer, you only need the drivers. The difference is not only the noise reduction but also the print quality because the TMC drivers will eliminate the salmon skin effect on the prints.
The main difference between both is the max output current (bigger in the 2209 but never archieved in our Tevo machines) and the sensorless homing feature (only available in the 2209). If you don't care about sensorless homing, you can go with 2208 as everything else is the same.
Thanks again for the info! Any advice on calculating the voltage for four 2130s? I've got the extruder driver you recommend on order, but I'd like to use these 2130s since I've already got them. As always...THANKS!!!
Hi Rui!!! I order already MKS Gen_L V2.1 and the same step motors you use in video for my Tarantula Pro. Did you have any link how explain to use the jumpers. The position/quantities jumpers looks a bit different from MKS_Gen L V 1.0 About the firmware I can use original Tarantula Pro firmware from MKS V1.0 board??? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mario, We don't have a video for the Gen_L V2.1. The jumper configuration is the same, you just need to know where is the MS1, MS2 and MS3. Google for MKS GEN L V2 schematic and you will find the pinout for all the connectors, including the stepping jumpers.
@@ruiraptor sorry rui we have solution in: ua-cam.com/video/vSgcH2wjCwY/v-deo.html Obrigado de qualquer maneira. Boa sorte e nao pares es fantastico. Abraco. sorry about that but you can have lots good news in: 3dmodularsystems.com/en/eletronic-boards/663-mks-sgenl-32bits-controler-board-for3d-printer.html
I enjoyed the video. My printer is an ultimaker 2 clone called cl-260. The board is equal to mks gen l 1.0 and has 5 tmc2208 v1.2. Can I run it exactly like a video to install the tmc2208 on my printer and use the UART function?
Hi, If you have TMC2208 V1.2 then they are setup for UART so you need to connect the serial wire to the board for it to work correctly and you need to flash the firmware so that it has that feature enabled too.
Your videos are great, thanks so much, they've helped a ton! My tornado shipped with a Gen L board, I'd like to adjust my vref's but my steppers are different from other Tornados as well.. they are labeled RBStep 42SHDC4043Z-22B for E1,X axis and 42SHDC6022Z-26B for Y (the label is situated so I'd have to remove the stepper from the Tornado to see the model on Y which I will do to verify before adjusting but currently am assuming it matches E1 and X) however I cannot figure out any info about these or what their formula might be, do you have any insight?
Hi, Your stepper motors, even with different part numbers, they should have similar specs (if not the same). Therefore, if you have the stock drivers (A4988) i recommend vref=0.95v for X, Z and E and vref=1.05V for Y. Run a 30min print and keep checking the motors temperatures. They can be warm but never hot. If the temps are ok and no Y shifts, then you are ready to go ;)
Thank you, will give these specs a shot and report back! When you say warm, you mean "to the touch" or via a specific range with an non-contact thermometer?
I am slowly understanding Vref values. I am installing a zesty nimble. Do I need to use a target of .5A or use .9A to start on the E driver? I have the A4988 stepper ICs. Thank You
I would say start with 0.5A or even go as low as 0.3A. With the Zesty Nimble you need low amps, because it needs to spin fast. You are looking for speed, not torque. More amps usually means more torque, but longer time needed between pulses.
I m looking for to change my driver to tmc2208. The vref for the green or gold tornado are the same? The improvement is just noise or printing quality is better?
Hi, the vref is the same for gold or green. The TMC drivers will give less noise and better print quality since they will eliminate the salmon skin effect on the prints.
Hi Ruiraptor, could you please help me which option is better for Tevo Tarantula 2017; - Replace the 4988ET drivers on MKS GEN L V1.0 board with TMC21XX drivers - Add TL-smoothers with 8 diodes to stock A4982 drivers on MKS Base v1.6 board or the board above with 4988ET drivers Thanks!
Hi, The best option is to get the MKS GEN L board and equip it with TMC2208 (or any other) drivers. These will give much better results when compared with Allegro and smoothers.
Hello, thank you for the video, but I have a problem :( : Everything works fine except the hotend (it even reads the right temp of the hotend). Sadly I was dumb enough not to label everythink. I tried both pairs of connections who come with the extension cable from the hotend and both didin't work. Only the fan is spinning. Sadly I don't know the pinout of the connector with the 8 pins so I tried every combination of the 4 wires and it still not works. Any ideas :)?
THANKS! Very well made video and easy to follow. PROBLEM: Everything seems to work great, however, when I try to heat the nozzle/hot end, I get min temp error and the printer HALTS. I have TWO tevo tornadoes, so I pluged the new board into BOTH and get the SAME message. any ideas? THANKS AGAIN for another great tutorial!
@@ruiraptor hey thanks so much, I got it working, I had the thermistor wire plugged into the wrong place, it immediately worked, however, NOW x and y axis are skipping and I can't get a print to work. after a few layers, it just jumps really far off. any suggestions?
Thank you for nice video but i have been using this stepper drivers some time but i have this one weird problem. I get kind of like weird buzz sound while printing. I try many kinds of current settings and so on but aint helping. So what's going on with my printer? I have the same board and all 2208 and 2100 on z...Thanks
ruiraptor Both x and y. I putt both of them in stand alone mode and then at some speeds they do real smooth. So im not really sure it vref is correct but i been checking this like 10 times so they should be good
Well i did changed them from another printer and it was still the same.. I even try with different motors. But im not really sure in what speeds the stealthmode kicks in?
i have a tevo tarantula and tevo flash. both with dual z. mks gen L v1.0 i believe both use. how do i find out the vref for xyze on both these machines? i had people telling me to test the diver voltage with motors attached and just set them all to 1v with no math used... but i was also told the voltage depends on if u have "pancake steppers"... i have stock on both machines...not sure what they use
The calculation for the vref/output current is available in the driver datasheet. You can google for TMC2208 datasheet and you will have all the information about the formula used. The desired output current then varies according to the stepper motor you have installed. The values i'm using are the best ones for the stepper motors (except in you case the Y axis since you dont have a big motor...but you can use the same vref i use for the X in your Y axis).
Is it the same process to update drivers for the Tevo Flash? I’m getting different feedback, some people say the vref doesn’t need adjusting because it is done by software. Your video shows they need to be manually adjusted.
Hi Brett, It's the same process. The drivers which you can adjust the vrefs by software need to be connected by SPI or UART. I use them stand alone (as shown in the video). The stock flash drivers are also stand alone.
@@ruiraptor that makes sense now, it can be used either way but your way looks simpler. Do I just use the firmware from github.com/tevo3d/Tevo-Flash, if yes which one BLTouch or TMC2100 BLTouch? Can I take a backup of the factory firmware? If using the above firmware do I need to specify that I'm using different drivers, have the dual Z model or invert axis? Thanks
Hi Brett, You can use any firmware as long as you change the motor direction (if needed). In some firmware versions, you need to specify that you are using the TMC2208 in standalone. Do a search for standalone. If there is no match then the firmware you have does not need that driver change.
When moving from MKS BASE 1.6 board to MKS GEN L, is it enough to just change #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_BASE to #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L ? And I've noticed that Configuration_adv.h has some TMC related settings, from comments in the code I guess they'll only needed for UART (or SPI in case of TMC2130) mode? Thanks
Hi, you don't need to modify the motherboard type as both (MKS base and Gen L) have the same pinout. Regarding the TMC settings, you are correct. If you will use them as is, then you only need to change the direction.
Can I use the TMC2208 for X,Y and Z . An keep the extruder with the A4988?. Just until my LV8729 arrives , I didn’t arrive yet , just the TMCS. Or put a TMC for the extruder while I wait for the LV8729?
Yes, you can. To be honest, I am using TMC2208 for the extruder as well and it is working quite well, I would say even better than the stock driver. Just keep in mind that you might need to adjust the steps per mm. In my case, I had to halve them.
Hi Ruiraptor Question about my Tevo Tornado .. My unit has the MKS Gen L V1.0 card ... yet the stepper motors are different what you show for the Tarantula .. My motors are RBS 47SHDC and are rated at 2.7V @ 1.5a .. Drivers that came with my Tornado are A4988 where as I'm replacing my extruder with the LV8729 driver. My question is on the "I (current) X 1.4 (rate) = V.". Not sure where you are obtaining the "RATE" value .. Any help would be appreciated .. Thanks
Hi, The rate value is a constant value. That is needed for the driver formula. You should only use the variables V and I. Anyway, I recommend you to use the values I mention in the video, especially for the TMC drivers.
Hi Ruiraptor, I'm wanting to install this Gen L with TMC2208 and LV8729 on my Tarantula and I'm confused by what vref's to set I was thinking xz 1.19 y 0.9 and extruder 0.45 as I have the R100 LV8729 is this correct?
Hi, For linear output drivers, you can calculate the output current value for the stepper motors you are using by checking their datasheet. However, some driver can operate as good with lower output currents and with that you take advantage of a lower driver temperature. Some experts can tune the current by listening to the motors. I normally recommend to start with a comfortable low current, test and raise it if you need it. Current too low will make the motors run with low torque and too much current will make the drivers and motors run hot.
Still helpful this tutorial in 2024, recently updated my Tornado with the 2208 and LV driver, bit of a 'problem' now, I don't hear the printer anymore except the fans what a improvement.
Didn't change the firmware because it worked great with the current firmware and don't want to have surprises that cost me hours to solve. I changed the direction of the steppers on the connector, easy to do.
Thanks for posting this!!
Excellent video. Very clear, easy to follow, no shaky camera, closeups where needed. Wow. One of the best tutorial video I've ever seen. Well done.
Spent hrs trying to find the name of those plugs ..Best vid all week for me
This video along with your firmware update video was really helpful and allowed me to upgrade my motor drivers to the TMC 2208 in my green Tevo Tornado that came with a MKS Gen L V1 Board! Thanks for the help!
The effort you put in these videos is amazing. Thank you!
Thank you for your kind comment Wolfgang :)
I was worried because of no UART jumper on my board. Watched your video, works like a charm. Thank you!
Great video as usual! That crooked heatsink will keep me up tonight though.
Great Video, worked for me! My Tornado is so quiet now, the change is incredible. Now my fans seem noisy. lol
DUDE YOU ARE AMAZING! as always :) at last clear video about those bloody TMC drivers Many thanks!
The board that came in my Tornado is the same board that you show in your video. The Board I’m installing is MKS Gen L V1.0 with TMC2208 V1.0 drivers in XYZ. 8729 in the Extruder.
Yes the Heat sink fan is 12V it was plugged in to - FAN + on the OEM board.
The 24V fan for the nozzle was plugged in to EO+ and E1- on the OEM board.
The 2 24V fans in the control box was plugged in to EO+ and E1- with the nozzle fan on the OEM board.
A13 and A14 are on the OEM board. MKS board has +TH2- , +TR- , +TH1-. All 3 are different colors.
Hop this info helps you tell me where wires go to the MKS board.
Thanks And don’t stop you super videos. NOTE: I did a hotend mod on the fans moths ago. the mod cald for 2 fans, one 24V 50mm blower fan, and 1 12V noctua A- series MF-A4x10 FLX 40mm blades with AAO frame SSO2 bearing premium fan. I tested The 12V fan, It is OK.
Dale
Hi Dale,
Send me an email to ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com so i can help you better.
I sent you a email to ruiraptor.channel@gmail,com
Email received and replied.
Your videos are super informative, Rui! Thank you so much for putting the time to share your knowledge!
Thank you so much. Glad it helped 🙂
Great! I was waiting for someone to publish instructions on how to do it. THANS! just ordered all the parts :)
Thanks :)
Any questions let me know
Thanks for posting this, I was totally unaware of the different versions of the LV8729 drivers, I have got some which I hope to use on a gen L for my delta - thanks again and have just sub'd
Thank you so much for this video. It was a very helpful work. I have a question. What is the name of the white sticky part you used between motherboard and case? Thank you.
Hi,
Those plastic parts are called standoffs. They are easy to find in any electronic store.
You can also find them on ebay, aliexpress, etc ...here's an example: pt.aliexpress.com/item/MTGATHER-100-PCS-HC-5-Nylon-Plastic-Stick-On-PCB-Spacer-Standoff-3mm-Hole-Support-Locking/32793176367.html
ruiraptor Thank you so much.
Ruiraptor Just a suggestion that might help some people that want to upgrade using the latest firmware (you may want to add it into the description OR do a 'follow up' video). The later versions of the firmware, 1.1.8 and above (could be lower number than that, but I used 1.1.8 cause it was the latest stable release, but could be as far back as 1.1.6) have been condensed and fine tuned for better printing and steps etc.
One of the improvements they made was to make the firmware more compact, to do this they re-wrote a lot of the code that repeats into a statement in the Adv H code. One of those improvements is there is a '#define X_DRIVER_TYPE A4988'. If you are going to upgrade to the TMC2208 & LV8729 you MUST change the type to TMC2208_STANDALONE (remove _STANDALONE if using UART) and the extruder to LV8729.
If you do not do this, even though you have correctly reversed the direction, the board still 'thinks' they are A4988's with the old steps. This means it may print dimensionally accurately BUT if you set it to print at 60mm/s, it will actually move at 120mm/s (or higher). After swearing at slicers (Cura, S3D, Slic3r etc) and pulling apart the printer and rechecking the jumpers and god knows what else I attempted, I finally found this in the firmware. Once I changed it, bingo. Perfect prints.
Also, and this is more commonly known, in the Tornado versions of the firmware it has been set incorrectly with the bed size 300x320. But this is a very simple thing to solve like lowering the accel and jerk.
But yeah, after more than a week or two of mucking about with this, I changed that, re-tuned the vref and its now printing perfectly and almost completely silent bar the sound of the fans.
Hi EagleSoar1381,
Thank you so much for sharing this information.
Where can people find this new firmware version? Do you have a link?
@@ruiraptor I grabbed all files from the Tevo Tornado Facebook group. There isn't really a firmware file for 1.1 (I think it's actually one of the older files in the file section just called TornadoFirmwareUpdate or something, but no mention of it being 1.1)
There are zips of 1.1.4 up to 2.0. I was told 1.1.8 was most recent reliable stable so went with that, anything prior to this version might be unaffected by the issues I ran into, can't say because I have not had a chance to check them yet (that was my next option if the #define didn't solve it, was going to roll back to earlier versions)
That information might be correct because the version I'm running does not have the TMC2208 or LV8729 option and I'm not having any issues for not changing any driver lines.
I will download a few versions and make some tests.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing this. I followed your guidance in Marlin 1.1.9 and worked great. One note is that these commands are in the Configuration.h file.
Ah yeah, forgot to mention that. Thanks for the addition and I am super glad it helped.
I wasnt aware of it and wow did it ever cause me problems. I was getting filament fed at the wrong rate (setting it to 60mm/s was printing at 120mm/s and things like that) and was causing me all kinds of headaches.
So yeah, glad the info is out there and helping other Makers out.
Cheers
really love you videos! i am french and i am falling love on you channel! really great
Hi, thank you so much for your kind comment. I'm glad my videos help the community :)
yes all you video help a lot! it s not like all others channel..yours give us really good improvement and really well made! and i know all time it take you to make this kind of video....keep this way all is perfect
Hi ruiraptor. Does the new board and drivers get rid of the salmon skin artifacts? Have you noticed any other improvements in print quality after upgrading the board and drivers vs the original board? I'm doing research in preparation of buying my first 3D printer. I'm very technologically savvy and have built many computers and went to school for electronics/electrical. I'm considering this printer primarily for the heated bed, build volume, and cr-10 style frame which should make upgrades and parts easy to find. Other printers I'm considering are the JGAroura A5, Anycubic i3 mega, and creality ender 3. Do you have any recommendations or words of wisdom apart from the obvious build volume differences? The JGAurora A5 and the i3 mega are both prusa stule i3 frames with dual z motors along with other features, but they don't seem nearly as upgradeable as the cr-10 style frames.
Hi David,
Great set of questions :)
For the driver issue and salmon skin, i suggest you to read and watch my video talking about it ( ua-cam.com/video/78fonMoXRuA/v-deo.html ).
But to give you a quick overview, the salmon skin effect is present in DRV8825, Allegro A4982, HR4982 and (although less noticeable) the A4988. The TMC drivers (such as 2208, 2100, etc) don't have this issue. In the video i mention above, there is a link to a page (the page was deleted but you can still reach it using internet archive) that explains why the drivers suffer from this.
Regarding the printers, you mention the ender-3 (you have the similar Tevo flash) and the CR-10 (similar to the Tevo tornado).
The tevo ones have a better advantage, in my opinion, thanks to the AC bed. This is an awesome feature. The bed heats up to 70 degrees in less than a minute (in the tevo flash) and it's more stable. Both tevo printers have glass on the bed too. The flash also has a much better layer cooling fan compared with the ender-3. These are the most evident differences. If you have faceboook, you can look into the forums and see what they can do and what other users talk about each one. With the tornado, i have good results. The recent version already has the MKS GEN L board so you only need the drivers upgrade and print a high performance fanduct, so it might be the better choice considering it has a bigger print volume too.
Great video. What do you base that LV8729 drivers is best for extruder on? Already ordered two of them for my printer, based on your statement. But would like to hear why.
Kind Regards.
Hi Kenni,
The TMC drivers don't work well with rapid direction transitions. Also, that rapid transitions can make them stall. If that happens, the driver will stop and will not resume until you stop the print and shut it down. The LVs don't stall that easily and even if they do, they don't stop like the TMCs. They keep on working and, at best, they will only skip steps. This will allow you to continue with the print.
Hi, thanks for sharing, i have this printer and show up the problem that the bed temperature shows 70 degrees alwais.... The termistor Is fine, i check with a new one and do not work. Do you know some thing similar to this??? I already order a new board but i dont know how yo change It. The Arduino thing Is the most fear part
How did you determine your "I" value(.85 and .5/1.1) for the stepper driver formulas? I ask, in case, I want to perform this same procedure on a different machine. Thanks
Hi Colin,
For linear drivers such as the Allegro for example, you will want to have the output current close to the optimal current of your stepper motor. For non linear drivers such as the TMC, you can use a lower output current value as they perform perfectly well and also, since the tmc run very hot, that is also something to take into account. You can eventually tune them "while running" as you adjust the current for a conservative value and evaluate the performance and increase if you need to.
Does this work on the new MKS GEN L V2.1? I'm very noob to this, my tornado has the old board, I have it for more than 2 years now and I want to upgrade the board.
I see that there are TMC2209 aswell now, are they better? Do I install them the same way?
Muito obrigado por seus vídeos amigo, pergunto em inglês para que outros com a mesma dúvida tenham também a resposta.
Hi "ruiraptor" !!
Just wanted to say thanks, you made a confusing upgrade very easy!
I know very little about stepper drivers.
A couple of questions though....
1/. why do we change the jumpers to run the drivers in 1/16 ?
Is this a better mode, or just your preference?
2/. I have been fighting a ghosting problem with no good results, I even removed the squash-ball feet I made to cut down vibrations, thinking that when installed, they made everything move around too much. You stated (lower down the comments)....
"You can use acceleration= 800 & jerk=8. These settings will prevent ghosting issues.
If you use an extra glass over the heatbed, you might need to reduce a little bit more."
Well I have a 6mm MIC6 Cast aluminum bed with 3mm borosilicate glass on top, so my Y axis is pretty heavy. I changed acceleration to 800, and I changed Y-Jerk to 8 but left X-jerk at 10. Will this be okay, or should I lower something to remove the ghosting problem I have? (Haven't tested new settings yet).
Thanks again for this video!!
Hi Compu Majix,
Good questions. Check the answers below:
1- Different drivers have different jumper configurations so you need to add/remove the jumpers according.
With an 8bit microcontroller, I prefer to run the drivers at 1/16 (which is the same with the stock A4988 drivers).
2- It seems that you, in fact, have a lot of weight on that Y axis. That will create a big and terrible inertia. Did you remove the stock glass bed?
Hi again....
1/. Thank you.
2/. Yes I completely removed the bed because I cracked it at two of the mounting holes trying to attach an upgrade and ruined it, so I decided to pull the heating pad from underneath, then instead of a replacement from Tevo, I had an MIC6 replacement made (what a nightmare.....the company I chose tried 3 times to drill the holes for the tramming screws before getting them in the correct locations, and the thinnest I could find was 6mm), then attached the heating pad to the bottom of the MIC6 and installed it. I added the glass for easier print removal, I hate the tape idea and glass makes better bottom layers in my opinion. Perfectly level bed and a dream to tram! I realize I will have to change the acceleration and jerk settings, and print a lot slower than the Tornado is usually capable of, but the better quality parts are made at a slower speed anyway, I print slow on my heavily upgraded Anet A8 (first learning printer, now I have my Tevo, and I'm going to build a Voron 2.1 from scrach for a corexy)....around 20mm/s for outside walls, 40mm/s infill & inside walls. I'm testing your new settings shortly. Any more advice as to lowering the settings to get rid of the ghosting ? Should I also lower the X-jerk to 8? I already checked the frame for loose parts, and tightened the belts with my belt tensioners (although I can't find a way to test for the right belt tension anywhere, just advice to tighten by feel, well I don't have a clue how tight is right so how will feeling them tell me anything? They feel tight, but is it too tight or not enough? LOL !! I also added the frame brace.
Thanks again for any help you can give me.
I really appreciate the time you take to read my questions and offer advice!
I look forward to the day that I'll be giving the advice. LOL !!
Majix
Hello rui, which jerk and accelaration are correct for Torando with this board and drivers ? Do you use settings of acceleration in your slicer (cura for example) or disable it and let firmware default ? thanks.
Hi Christian,
I normally disable the motion control in the slicer and use only the settings in the firmware.
You can use acceleration= 800 & jerk=8. These settings will prevent ghosting issues. If you use an extra glass over the heatbed, you might need to reduce a little bit more.
This is awesome. Also I would like to know your opinion if TMC 2130 with SPI support would work on this ?
Hi,
The TMC2130 is a great driver which includes many more features compared with the 2208. However, they are a little bit more difficult to setup.
In my case, i don't see the need for the extra features..but that's me talking :D
Hi! I'm planning to build a Ender 3 with quite a few modifications and I'm curious about how/why the LV8729 is better for the extruder than the TMC2208? (Thinking getting the MKS Gen L, E3D hotend/extruder for the Ender 3) Any thoughts on the StepStick Protector modules to put underneath the drivers?
Oh, and a related question. I notice the vast majority of TMC2208's out there are v1.0, but I've also seen rev 1.1, 1.2 ands I think 1.3. KNow anything about the differences for them and which ones to get?
Hi Thomas,
The TMCs cannot handle very well fast direction changes such as the retractions from the extruder and that's why the LV is used instead.
Regarding the protectors, to be honest, i don't have any thoughts. It's just one of those things i don't use and not thinking on using.
Regarding the driver version, it should be related with the module itself. You can check the chip datasheet and check.
Could you use the LV8729 for the other drives? Seems it would be even better to replace all of the TMC2208s
Hi Doug,
Yes, you can use the LV8729 drivers for all the axis. They are not as quiet as the TMCs but work perfectly
Hello! I got the same board and drivers like you got but I'm confused with what VRef should I use and found your video. I wonder how did you came up with the values for I (Current) for X/Z of 0.85A and for Y of 0.9A? Do you have a formula for that too? Thanks!
Hi,
There is no formula to find the stepper motor current. The stepper motors used in the tevo tornado and tevo tarantula are rated max current between 1.3A and 1.5A. However, i don't want to use that much current because i don't want to have the motors pushed to the limit and i also don't want to have the drivers to heat up more than i have to. The drivers run very hot and if you use more current than what you need, they get hot without any purpose and you risk getting missing steps due to thermal shutdown....so you adjust from the bottom up. I found that the ideal currents are the ones i mentioned in the video. With these currents/Vrefs, i get good results.
The pieces between the cables for the motors that you put the heat sinks on. Mine I got are different and have the circuitry on top. There is no other place to put them. Any suggestions
Hi,
you mean the drivers? You probably have the v1.1 models and the "circuitry" on top is the cooling pad.
Thank for this detailed vid, it helped me a lot when installing TMC2100 for XYZ, now I am about to replace the DRV8825 I have running the extruder with a LV8729 stepper driver (a newer model to LC8727 maybe)
Questions: Do you have a value I could use for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.
The stepper driver is a LERDGE with R220 resistors, I will have the VREF set to1.43v according to calcs
I believe the 1/64 or 1/128 stepping is best, but with the Gen Lv1.0 on the extruder which did you use? Would it be safer to go for 1/64?
Would it make sense to remove the pin for MS1 in order to force 1/64 steps? I'm not sure about the high/low info regarding caps, I do not see anythign solderable or any removaable caps
THANKS!
Hi,
The steps_per_unit depend on which stepping setup you use, for example, if you use 1/16 (same as the stock driver) the steps/mm are the same. If you change to 1/32, you have to double the steps/mm and so on.
I'm running my LV8729 at 1/16. You can use 1/32 too. Any higher stepping might be too much for the 8bit board.
Hello Rui I just installed an MKS Gen1.4 board with the same drivers that you showed in your videos, I have also installed the second Z motor but I don't know if the V-ref should be changed. I used the CR-10 upgrade kit for the double Z so basically I have a single cable on the board that splits in the 2 motors.
Thank you for your help, your videos are amazing.
Hi Yuri,
The cable you have for the dual Z is a parallel or serial cable? My bet is a parallel cable and if that is true, it will divide the output current between the 2 motors.
Normally, the Z motors dont require too much current to move that axis and having 2 motors you can work fine with the minimum. Having said that, just adjust with my vref advice and test. Adjust a bit more only if you see issues.
Thank you Rui. I will do.
I did the upgrades for these, and when I tested the motors, the X-axis moved 80mm when I told it to do 10mm and it hits the limits way before it reaches the end of the gantry. I checked the firmware, and the steps are still set at 79.96 (where I had them working before the 2208 swap). I powered down, and swapped the 2208 on the Z-motor with the one for the X, and the X is still acting the same. Obviously it's not the chip, has to be something in the firmware, but I have not figured out what else is/was changed. Any thoughts?
I am using the Marlin 1.1.9 firmware, and I see a place to specify the current driver... do I need to do this (I did not see that covered in this video)?
I decided to add what the issue was since I got it figured out: the second jumper for X got pulled partly loose. Seating it fully fixed this issue.
Hi Bryan,
That would be my guess.
A wrong jumper configuration will set the driver to a different stepping which will require a different step/mm value.
Thanks for the information.
Hi rui, as always you do nice videos, i'm going to do the same upgrade on my tarantula, so i'm wondering what is the right voltage should i set on my pancake stepper motor placed on the extruder ? thanks
Hi Felice,
as i explain the the video, you should always start from the bottom up when adjusting the vrefs/currents. With that motor, i would suggest between 0.6 and 0.7Amps and go from there.
how can i recognize that i reach the right voltage?
Will the LV make my extruder less noisy during retraction ? Because its the main source of noise from my printer
It will make it a bit less noisy. I don't know what kind of noise you are referring to but if the screws that secure the extruder are too tight, it will make more noise than it is supposed to.
Hi...orientation of the 8729s...
Adjust screw face towards exp1 exp2 lcd points?
Video seems to show that..
They arent labelled as well as the 2208s..dir gnd etc etc
RUI! I've seen other videos where there was a soldering involved.. specifically two spots to turn on the higher voltage (SPREAD CYCLE) setting of the drivers and splicing a resistor into the system.. Second, there was a FTDI UART chip involved. I ended up purchasing all of that but I do not see you utilizing it. What am I missing here? thanks!
Hi,
There are other TMC drivers on the market and some must be configured by soldering the small pads. The TMC 2100 in one of those examples. But i think you are referring to the UART mode. For that, you need to unsolder and flip some of the pins on the TMC2208 so that you can access the UART pins in order to change some specific modes. If you plan on working with the TMC2208 as is (stealthchop mode), you only need to select and configure the stepping with the jumpers on the board.
@ruiraptor I just got these drivers for my 2nd gen Tevo Tornado with gen L board. Did the Vrefs work out ok for yours? My motors are stock and I see wild variations in the recommended vref on youtube and message boards.
Hi Rob, the vrefs are the same since the stepper motors are also the same. The vref settings may vary according to each user but regardless of the value, you should always run a 30min print and check the stepper motor temperatures. They can be warm but never hot.
This worked great but after upgrading to a 2mm lead T8 screw, my z-axis motor doesn't seem to be able to turn most of the time. I've updated the steps per mm. Do I need to increase the VRef for Z? If so, how high can I safely go?
Hi,
The TMC2208 can handle RMS currents up to 1.2A which is safe for your Z motor but it will run hotter.
You can try and increase the vref but check the temperatures (driver and motor).
In alternative, you can use an LV8729 driver for the Z too.
@@ruiraptor The problem turned out to be the Z homing feedrate in the firmware. It was set to 1,200 which is apparently too fast after the changes/upgrades I've made. I determined the max I can use is about 500 before it starts to slip. Thanks =)
That's true. When changing the leadscrew pitch you need to change the steps/mm. I thought you have changed them. Thanks for sharing.
@@ruiraptor NP; I had the steps per mm set but the feedrate was way too high.
Hi Ruiraptor, thank you for your video!
Just wondering, I've read that the drivers that you suggest to use can be set both via software or using the jumpers (as you have shown). Is there any real difference between the two methods?
Hi,
The advantage of having a UART (or SPI depending on the driver model) link is that you can have more control of your stepper motors by tweaking the features in firmware. If you don't care about that and just want the printer to run then you can skip this part. If you want to be able to control everything then the firmware control is better. It's a personal choice.
I did not understand one thing, I can not use the TMC2208 in the extruder? do I have to buy the LV8729 separately for this? I went to make the purchase in the link that you posted and comes MKS GEN L + 5 pcs TMC2208, do I even need to buy the LV8729 or does the TMC2208 work well in the extruder?
Hi Christian,
You can use the TMC2208 for the extruder too.
It's recomended to use the LV8729 instead because it can handle the fast direction changes from the retractions much better than the TMC.
Thanks so much for your tutorial. I have gone with the exact same setup. I'm interested to know why you went with 16 microsteps instead of the 256 microsteps the TMC2208 drivers support? I thought part of the benefit of having these drivers is the additional microsteps, making for better detailed prints?
Hi Stevan,
The problem with having drivers setup with 1/64 or 1/128 or even 1/256 steps with an 8bit board is that the microcontroller is not fast enough. You can setup that with a 32bit board but not with an 8bit one.
Hello, with drivers 2208 and a 42hd4027-01 stepper motor (current rated 1.5A on 3.3 volts) is possible to mount these drivers? and the vref to what should be regulated? because I think this engine is too big and the vref goes undervolt, is it right?
I thought the TMC2130 was the "popular" driver these days...any reason you went 2208 instead of 2130? (It looks like a lot of wiring is needed for the 2130)
Hi,
Yes...the TMC2208 is much easier to setup. The TMC2130 has nice features like sensorless endstops but i'm that kind of guy that likes to have "real" endstops :D
Thanks for making the video...I have the same board as you. I bought the replacement motherboard but hadn't made a final decision on drivers.
The TMC2208 are awesome drivers. I love them.
I have DRV8825 and A4988 drivers.. What is the jumpers / driver dependency?
Not sure which resistors to measure in order to calculate vref.. .05 ohm on the a4988? For example, according to an arduino forum post (415724), for the drv8825 vref = Imax/2, and for the a4988 vref = Imax/2.5 ?
Where on the MKS does motor power get to the motor (pin 16 of the driver)? For example, is it possible to run a motor at 5v assuming a driver that supports that?
Since my tevo Tornado already used a gen l 1.0 and I need to replace the board is it just simple plug and play just for replacement? Do I need to do the the jumper thingy?
can i adjust the current with all conected except the motors?, because my tevo tornado came with the mks gen L installed
Hi,
Yes, you can. Just unplug the motors connectors.
Where (on the board)and how did you add the extra fan? I have the original but after upgrade to 1.1.9 it runs fast/slow/fast/slow instead of a constant speed like it used to. Don't know why that happened. I want to add a bigger fan, but don't know where to put it in order to give it constant speed (rather than splice into the original and get variable speeds). Thanks for any help.
Hi Rob, if you mean the board cooling fan, you can connect it directly to the power supply.
excellent tutorial, thank you! Just got my TMC2208 in the mailbox today, starting with the replacement on the Tarantula, already have the MKS Gen-L board. One question: in the 'configuration.h' do you change the driver type from A4988 to TMC2208/LV8729?
Hi Stefan,
Regarding changing the driver in the firmware, it depends on the firmware version (we mention this in the video description).
If you are using the stock firmware version, you can leave as is. If you have a more recent version, the TMCs are supported and you should replace the A4988 with the TMC and LV.
hi! for the mks gen 1.4 shoul i remove any jumper for tmc 2208? Also am i supposed to do any modification or i can plug&play?
Hi,
The configuration of the jumpers for the MKS GEN 1.4 is the same as the GEN L.
Hi!
I did exactly like in your video for a TTPro with LV8729 just on the extruder and TMCs on X and Y, but the extruder still makes a high pitch noise. Any ideas on how I can reduce that? I connected the TMCs with UART because I'm using Klipper. TIA
Seems like it's working with too much current. Lower your Vref. Are you using the same LV8729 with the same resistor?
@@ruiraptor yep, 220. I had it set to .91, .760 should be alright?
@@ruiraptor Thx for the input!! Lowering the Vref made it a lot quieter!
Hi, is there any change in the process you descripe in the video if i will use MKS SGEN L V1.0 instead of MKS GEN L V1.0? Thanks
Hi, the SGen is a 32bit board so you need to install visual code studio together with platformio to compile the firmware.
Were you able to setup the mks sgen L? I'm trying to set one up but am getting confused
Hi there!
I got two LV8729 drivers, thinking they were a better choice than stock A4988 for any axis. Also got two DRV8825, since I intented to use LV for X and Y, and DRV for Z and E0. Is that a good choice?
If not I could get TMC2208, but I would like to use no more than two different drivers. Does it make sense using TMC2208 for Z? I could save some money if I used something different.
Did you have to make any changes on TMC2208 (aside from firmware and jumpers)? I don't see any physical change in your video, so I wanted to get it confirmed. Some people out there are reversing a few pins on TMC2231 in order to use that SPI mode... But as far as I know 2208s can be plugged straight onto RAMPS based boards, right?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Alex,
Here is a quick overview of each driver to help you with your choice.
LV8729 drivers are very good drivers that you can use in every axis. People don't install them on X and Y because people like to reduce the motor's noise by installing TMCs.
TMCs are known to have a very good output signal and can run the motors silent but they can't handle very fast direction changes and that's the reason why the LVs are used for the extruder instead.
The DRV8825 drivers are no longer used in X and Y axis due to the salmon skin effect that they produce but they can handle up to 2.5A of output current.
The A4988 drivers are a better version of the A4982 but can also output salmon skin (less noticeable). Also, they cannot work in micro steppings higher than 1/16.
If you are upgrading from A4988 drivers to TMCs or LVs, you only need to setup the jumpers correctly and reverse the direction in the firmware...that's it.
Is it me or for the FAN just connection...it seems reversed on the board?
excellent video .... with the change of drivers are smoothers no longer needed?
Where can I find the latest firmware version? thank you
Hi,
That is correct. With TMC drivers you will not need any smoother.
Regarding the latest firmware versions, you can find them in the official tevo tornado facebook group
Hey there, awesome video and great help.. just a question here, i'm trying to do the same setup with my ender 3, however i'm in doubt.. the LV8729 is placed how? i cant fund any indication of ground on it.. the screw to adjust the vref is next to the others tmc's or on the other way? thank you in advance
Hi,
The LVs header pins should have different colors. On one side they should be black and on the other side they should be colored.
You can use that as a reference.
@@ruiraptor well, its all black :/
In that case, google "LV8729" and you will find many examples were the header id colored and you can compare with yours.
Where did you manage to find the Imax for the TEVO steppers? What I was able to get from TEVO themselves is that the Rb42SHDC6022Z-26B (Y-axis) and the Rb 42shdc4043Z-22B (E, X, & Z ) stepper motors all have the same max current of 1.5A. Also to correctly calculate the Vref for the TMC2208, you should be working with rms current (Irms). That math is as follows: Irms= Imax(max motor current)/1.41, then Vref=(Irms * 2.5)/1.77. This will give you the correct Vref for all TMC stepper drivers. p.s. I typically only ever use 90% of Vref.
Hi, from the information we received, the stepper motors are rated 1.5A and the bigger Y axis stepper motor is 1.7A. Because of the characteristics of the TMC drivers, we always adjust from the bottom up and this way preventing the drivers from overheating. There is no need to run the drivers hotter than what you need.
This thing might come in handy on Thingiverse: Tevo Tornado MKS Gen L adapter
Nice and useful tutorial.
Is this setup the same for any prusa-like printer or only for the Tornado ?
Hi,
Thank you for your comment.
This tutorial will work for any printer as long as you know the specs of the motors and adjust the vrefs/currents accordingly. Furthermore, you need to have access to the firmware so you can change the motor direction (if needed). In last resort, you can get away without it and just reverse the motor wires.
Hi Ruiraptor.
Thanks for your reply. I was studying it furthermore today to make a JGAurora A3 more quiet (A4982) . I have to change the motherboard (welded drivers on a Ramps1.4) , so I'll follow your software instructions too.
But I don't know the Nema17 specs. Could it be an issue ?
I have to learn too if I have to configure something with the actual LCD 2004 display. Not so easy, but I progress.
I added the Dual Z Axis Kit, so I have 2 motors on my Z Stepper Driver. Do I set the VRef's the same way you have shown even though there are 2 Motors, or does it need to be higher?
Hi,
You can setup the vref for the Z with the same value as i have in my video.
The Z motor (especially when using 2) don't require much torque when compared with the X or Y.
@@ruiraptor Great, thanks !!
Hey Rui thanks for another awesome tutorial. You seem to know what your doing so I have a prob with my tarantula. I watched your tutorial of replacing the smart controller with a graphic display and I decided to do it. I successfully configured the display, but now the hot end won’t heat..the blue light next to the E0 heating cartridge port just blinks and doesn’t stay solid...I didn’t touch anything in the firmware or the wiring..u have any ideas???
Hi Matthew,
I don't know if you have a facebook account...If you do, can you please send me a PM through my page (ruiraptor)?
If you don't have facebook, can you email me at ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com?
This way i will be able to help you better.
Rui, would it be the same process for tarantula? On my 3d printer came the MKS Base 1.4 I'm thinking of trading for this mks gen that sells on baggood already with the drivers, will it work fine for me?
Hi Christian,
yes, the procedure is the same for the tarantula except the vref value for the Y axis since the tarantula does not have a big Y axis motor. You can use the same X Vref for the tarantula X, Y and Z.
Bonjour. , Donc à ce que j ai compris c est Une nouvelle carte MKS qu on peut installer sur la Tevo Tornado , j aurait bien voulu que ce soit sous titres en français . Merci encore une bonne vidéo 👍👍👌👌😉😭
Hello Rui! Great video! I've upgraded to 2208's in my tornado as well. How do I know if they are in spread cycle versus stealth chop. I want them to be in spread cycle. How do you get them into spread cycle? Thank you and I really enjoy your videos!!
Hi,
The TMC2208 are set to steathchop. To change them to spreadcycle you need to program them.
Hello Rui, I want to install a BlTouch on to my Tevo Tornado, I've already upgraded to the gen l board, but i dont know how to install a BlTouch. Could ylu male a Video about it?
Hi Sercan,
Good idea. In the meantime, if you need help, email me at ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com
ruiraptor Thanks, but I think I will wait until your Videos, they are soo good and easy to understand!
hello, super video very explicit for neophytes. Would you have the model used for the fan bracket you added to cool the drivers
Hi Gregory,
Please contact me by email and i will send it to you.
@@ruiraptor ok. i send you email
Thanks for all your great videos. They are a big help for noobs like myself. What is the extruder fan mod shown in the video?
Hi Terry,
Thanks.
The fan mod i'm using is the one i liked the most from the tests i ran with a few models. You can see those tests here:
ua-cam.com/video/hoHz5LHyFUo/v-deo.html
Thanks again for the link. I have a new Tornado with the MKS board with "pluggable" drivers. I see from you video that there are several differences between it and the MKS L board. Is there any reason to upgrade my board and drivers or can I just replace the drivers?
Hi Terry,
The board you have with "pluggable" drivers is the MKS GEN L (same as the one i used in the video).
My tornado was one of the first and it was equipped with a MKS BASE. You already have the new board, so if you decide to upgrade the drivers, you only need the drivers.
Hi, very nice explained video. For Extruders how is the noise compared between LV8729 and DRV8825 for Linear Advanced feature of Marlin?
Hi,
I have the LV8729 installed in my extruder and I would risk saying that it might sound less noisy compared with the allegro or DRV8825.
@@ruiraptor Thank your for the fast reply
Hi Ruiraptor, first let me start by saying I love your videos. They are very informative and helpful. I have a question for you. Why buy from Banggood and wait weeks for the order when you can order from Amazon and get it in a few days? The reason for me asking is I want to do the same upgrades to both my Tevo Tornado and my Ender 3.
Hi Jose,
Good point. I honestly never bought anything from Amazon yet but i heard that Amazon does not accept paypal. I only work with paypal at the moment so that can be a blocking point.
Got you. Thank you for your response. Again your videos are great they have help me out a lot.
Followed this video so many times and I still my Y motor stops mid print? My Z might be stopping at the same time as well. Stock case cooling fan, Acceleration 800, Jerk 5, vref 1.26 on Y. Running out of ideas, any advice? TIA
Hi,
try to increase the cooling. They might be shutting down by their thermal protection.
Definately-mine needed fan on drivers
Hi looking to fit a MKS SGEN -L but can’t find much info, could you use the details you give for the GENL board to set up the drivers I will be using the same as you used
Are you running the controller on 12V or 24V? Are there any changes required to run on 24V? Thanks!
Hi,
I'm running at 24V.
The tevo tornado is 24v from stock.
Something that is not, I am not aware is that for the LV8729 controller, leaving soo the MSI3, only works at 16 micro steps, should not increase them leaving the 3 bridges so that the extrusion is smoother at 128 steps?
Provide the configuration as you mentioned in the video but I get very little material, leaving the line very separate.
some subject?
Thank you!
Cristian
Hi,
I would not recommend using higher stepping on an 8 bit board.
If you want to use 1/128 steps then i recommend you to get a 32bit board instead.
8 bit controller is not fast enough to create pulse for 1/32 and above.
Please, what material used as buildplate at the end of the video, I was curious. Congratulations for the content, I'm from Brazil and I just turned patreon!
Hi Rodrigo,
That print surface is a Filaprint from filafarm.
Thank you for your support :)
I just ordered one too. Good info thanks!
Hi Ramon,
You will like the improvement for sure ;)
I know this video is old but I am still running stock board and 1.1 marlin that came with my tornado. I have the same board that you had originally. Is there that much of an improvement in print quality to make the upgrade worth it? The sound doesn't bother me as it is in a workshop. I installed smoothers already but that print at the beginning of your video looks super smooth.
Hi Raymond, in our opinion yes, they are worth it. The TMCs will produce better quality when compared with the stock allegros with smoothers.
@@ruiraptor thanks. The 8 diode smoothers I purchased didn't get rid of the salmon skin issue, just reduced it. Vref was set to .95 for all drivers.
hello friend regarding the formula; Is 0.85 and 0.9 the current of the motors? In this case if I have 1.7A motors, should that amperage be placed? or what would be ideal?
Hi Fernando. Don't use the full spec current. If you do, the drivers will run too hot. The ideal way to tune these drivers is to start from the lowest value and raise while checking.
Hi, Rui! I have a couple of questions regarding this upgrade. Considering the Vref value, i found a Vref calculator online for different drivers and it says that a setting of Vref over 1.2 Volts can kill the driver. As your values are pretty close or over this value i am wondering what is yopur opinion regarding this.
The next question is where do you connect the extra driver cooling fan?
Kind regards, Jurij
Hi Jurij, we used the chip's datasaheet as reference. Can you share the link of that calculator so that we can analise the information?
@@ruiraptor when i copy the link to comment or even mention the site where i found the calculator, my comment gets deleted. I dont understand why...
try not using the link path but just the name of the website.
@@ruiraptor tried everything but still the comment got deleted, but now just today i finished the upgrade with vref values from your video, and made three 47 minutes prints, and everything is perfect.
I didn't have so much qualitiy issues before, but i absolutely love the noise reduction, it is amazing. Steppers did not overheat, so i guess everything is ok.
Hi my friend. For MKS gen 1.4 from MKS base, do I still need to reverse the LCD cable? I guess I have to but just want to double check. Thank you for your video. I've watched the other video of yours and learned a lot.
Hi Tylor,
You will know when you connect it :)
Don't worry...you will not damage the display. I had this problem the first time i connected it and i just reversed the cable and it worked.
@@ruiraptor Thank you so much for your reply!
Any disadvantage to keep default drivers on z to save some money?
No disadvantage. You can use the stock A4988 driver for the Z.
is there any benefits tmc2130 rather than 2208, i wanna upgrade to mks gen L too witch tmc drivers 2208 newr version if im right, any difference them exclude spi/uart
The TMC2130 has a few extra features that you can play with (if interested) such as sensorless homing, for example.
For more details, you can download the datasheet of the TMC2208 and TMC2130 and compare the differences.
For me, I had both and ended up using the 2208 over the 2130. Take a look at the datasheets as ruiraptor suggests. the 2208 handles a bit more power and seems, for me, to run cooler. The two features over the 2130 I don't use, but, you may have a use for them.
Would you still recommend this upgrade in 2020? I purchased this board and drivers a while back, but didn't do the upgrade at the time. Is there a print quality upgrade as well as noise?
Hi Andy, the new printers already have this board, so if you have the new printer, you only need the drivers. The difference is not only the noise reduction but also the print quality because the TMC drivers will eliminate the salmon skin effect on the prints.
ruiraptor Thanks for the reply! My Tornado is a few years old, so it sounds like this would actually be a nice improvement to go through with.
Was anyone looking at the tmc2209 nowdays? Looks like an upgrade from 2208
The main difference between both is the max output current (bigger in the 2209 but never archieved in our Tevo machines) and the sensorless homing feature (only available in the 2209). If you don't care about sensorless homing, you can go with 2208 as everything else is the same.
Thanks again for the info! Any advice on calculating the voltage for four 2130s? I've got the extruder driver you recommend on order, but I'd like to use these 2130s since I've already got them. As always...THANKS!!!
Hi Rui!!!
I order already MKS Gen_L V2.1 and the same step motors you use in video for my Tarantula Pro.
Did you have any link how explain to use the jumpers. The position/quantities jumpers looks a bit different from MKS_Gen L V 1.0
About the firmware I can use original Tarantula Pro firmware from MKS V1.0 board???
Thanks in advance.
Hi Mario,
We don't have a video for the Gen_L V2.1. The jumper configuration is the same, you just need to know where is the MS1, MS2 and MS3. Google for MKS GEN L V2 schematic and you will find the pinout for all the connectors, including the stepping jumpers.
@@ruiraptor sorry rui we have solution in:
ua-cam.com/video/vSgcH2wjCwY/v-deo.html
Obrigado de qualquer maneira. Boa sorte e nao pares es fantastico. Abraco.
sorry about that but you can have lots good news in:
3dmodularsystems.com/en/eletronic-boards/663-mks-sgenl-32bits-controler-board-for3d-printer.html
I enjoyed the video. My printer is an ultimaker 2 clone called cl-260. The board is equal to mks gen l 1.0 and has 5 tmc2208 v1.2. Can I run it exactly like a video to install the tmc2208 on my printer and use the UART function?
Hi,
If you have TMC2208 V1.2 then they are setup for UART so you need to connect the serial wire to the board for it to work correctly and you need to flash the firmware so that it has that feature enabled too.
Your videos are great, thanks so much, they've helped a ton! My tornado shipped with a Gen L board, I'd like to adjust my vref's but my steppers are different from other Tornados as well.. they are labeled RBStep 42SHDC4043Z-22B for E1,X axis and 42SHDC6022Z-26B for Y (the label is situated so I'd have to remove the stepper from the Tornado to see the model on Y which I will do to verify before adjusting but currently am assuming it matches E1 and X) however I cannot figure out any info about these or what their formula might be, do you have any insight?
Hi,
Your stepper motors, even with different part numbers, they should have similar specs (if not the same).
Therefore, if you have the stock drivers (A4988) i recommend vref=0.95v for X, Z and E and vref=1.05V for Y.
Run a 30min print and keep checking the motors temperatures. They can be warm but never hot.
If the temps are ok and no Y shifts, then you are ready to go ;)
Thank you, will give these specs a shot and report back! When you say warm, you mean "to the touch" or via a specific range with an non-contact thermometer?
thank you for this very info packed vid
I am slowly understanding Vref values. I am installing a zesty nimble. Do I need to use a target of .5A or use .9A to start on the E driver? I have the A4988 stepper ICs. Thank You
I would also like a video on the A4988
I would say start with 0.5A or even go as low as 0.3A. With the Zesty Nimble you need low amps, because it needs to spin fast. You are looking for speed, not torque. More amps usually means more torque, but longer time needed between pulses.
I m looking for to change my driver to tmc2208. The vref for the green or gold tornado are the same? The improvement is just noise or printing quality is better?
Hi, the vref is the same for gold or green. The TMC drivers will give less noise and better print quality since they will eliminate the salmon skin effect on the prints.
Hi Ruiraptor, could you please help me which option is better for Tevo Tarantula 2017;
- Replace the 4988ET drivers on MKS GEN L V1.0 board with TMC21XX drivers
- Add TL-smoothers with 8 diodes to stock A4982 drivers on MKS Base v1.6 board or the board above with 4988ET drivers
Thanks!
Hi,
The best option is to get the MKS GEN L board and equip it with TMC2208 (or any other) drivers.
These will give much better results when compared with Allegro and smoothers.
Hello, thank you for the video, but I have a problem :( :
Everything works fine except the hotend (it even reads the right temp of the hotend). Sadly I was dumb enough not to label everythink. I tried both pairs of connections who come with the extension cable from the hotend and both didin't work.
Only the fan is spinning. Sadly I don't know the pinout of the connector with the 8 pins so I tried every combination of the 4 wires and it still not works.
Any ideas :)?
THANKS! Very well made video and easy to follow. PROBLEM: Everything seems to work great, however, when I try to heat the nozzle/hot end, I get min temp error and the printer HALTS.
I have TWO tevo tornadoes, so I pluged the new board into BOTH and get the SAME message. any ideas?
THANKS AGAIN for another great tutorial!
Hi Cosmo, what are the temperatures you get on the display when you turn on the printer?
@@ruiraptor hot end -14. Bed 21
Your hotend temperature is -14 and that is your problem. Check all the wires and conenctions. Maybe you have a loose connector.
@@ruiraptor hey thanks so much, I got it working, I had the thermistor wire plugged into the wrong place, it immediately worked, however, NOW x and y axis are skipping and I can't get a print to work. after a few layers, it just jumps really far off. any suggestions?
Thank you for nice video but i have been using this stepper drivers some time but i have this one weird problem. I get kind of like weird buzz sound while printing. I try many kinds of current settings and so on but aint helping. So what's going on with my printer? I have the same board and all 2208 and 2100 on z...Thanks
Hi,
Can you identify which axis is buzzing? Maybe one of the stepper drivers is not working perfectly.
ruiraptor Both x and y. I putt both of them in stand alone mode and then at some speeds they do real smooth. So im not really sure it vref is correct but i been checking this like 10 times so they should be good
Well i did changed them from another printer and it was still the same.. I even try with different motors. But im not really sure in what speeds the stealthmode kicks in?
hello. + Have you set the LV8729 to 1/16 microstep and the 2208 to 1/8?
Hi,
no...all are set to 1/16 steps.
i have a tevo tarantula and tevo flash. both with dual z. mks gen L v1.0 i believe both use.
how do i find out the vref for xyze on both these machines?
i had people telling me to test the diver voltage with motors attached and just set them all to 1v with no math used... but i was also told the voltage depends on if u have "pancake steppers"... i have stock on both machines...not sure what they use
The calculation for the vref/output current is available in the driver datasheet. You can google for TMC2208 datasheet and you will have all the information about the formula used. The desired output current then varies according to the stepper motor you have installed. The values i'm using are the best ones for the stepper motors (except in you case the Y axis since you dont have a big motor...but you can use the same vref i use for the X in your Y axis).
Great job,congratulations.
Hi great video can you post the wiring diagram of the motherboard because i don't find them
Hi, contact me by email or on facebook
Is it the same process to update drivers for the Tevo Flash?
I’m getting different feedback, some people say the vref doesn’t need adjusting because it is done by software. Your video shows they need to be manually adjusted.
Hi Brett,
It's the same process. The drivers which you can adjust the vrefs by software need to be connected by SPI or UART. I use them stand alone (as shown in the video). The stock flash drivers are also stand alone.
@@ruiraptor that makes sense now, it can be used either way but your way looks simpler.
Do I just use the firmware from github.com/tevo3d/Tevo-Flash, if yes which one BLTouch or TMC2100 BLTouch?
Can I take a backup of the factory firmware?
If using the above firmware do I need to specify that I'm using different drivers, have the dual Z model or invert axis?
Thanks
Hi Brett,
You can use any firmware as long as you change the motor direction (if needed). In some firmware versions, you need to specify that you are using the TMC2208 in standalone. Do a search for standalone. If there is no match then the firmware you have does not need that driver change.
You dont need to change stepper type? just only invert stepper dir?
When moving from MKS BASE 1.6 board to MKS GEN L, is it enough to just change
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_BASE
to
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L ?
And I've noticed that Configuration_adv.h has some TMC related settings, from comments in the code I guess they'll only needed for UART (or SPI in case of TMC2130) mode?
Thanks
Hi,
you don't need to modify the motherboard type as both (MKS base and Gen L) have the same pinout.
Regarding the TMC settings, you are correct. If you will use them as is, then you only need to change the direction.
Thanks!
Can I use the TMC2208 for X,Y and Z . An keep the extruder with the A4988?. Just until my LV8729 arrives , I didn’t arrive yet , just the TMCS. Or put a TMC for the extruder while I wait for the LV8729?
Yes, you can. To be honest, I am using TMC2208 for the extruder as well and it is working quite well, I would say even better than the stock driver. Just keep in mind that you might need to adjust the steps per mm. In my case, I had to halve them.
Hi Ruiraptor
Question about my Tevo Tornado .. My unit has the MKS Gen L V1.0 card ... yet the stepper motors are different what you show for the Tarantula .. My motors are RBS 47SHDC and are rated at 2.7V @ 1.5a .. Drivers that came with my Tornado are A4988 where as I'm replacing my extruder with the LV8729 driver. My question is on the "I (current) X 1.4 (rate) = V.". Not sure where you are obtaining the "RATE" value .. Any help would be appreciated .. Thanks
Hi,
The rate value is a constant value. That is needed for the driver formula. You should only use the variables V and I.
Anyway, I recommend you to use the values I mention in the video, especially for the TMC drivers.
Hi Ruiraptor, I'm wanting to install this Gen L with TMC2208 and LV8729 on my Tarantula and I'm confused by what vref's to set I was thinking xz 1.19 y 0.9 and extruder 0.45 as I have the R100 LV8729 is this correct?
Hello. Where do you find the optimum values of the current to find the optimum voltage for each motor?
Hi,
For linear output drivers, you can calculate the output current value for the stepper motors you are using by checking their datasheet. However, some driver can operate as good with lower output currents and with that you take advantage of a lower driver temperature. Some experts can tune the current by listening to the motors. I normally recommend to start with a comfortable low current, test and raise it if you need it. Current too low will make the motors run with low torque and too much current will make the drivers and motors run hot.