How To Rebuild A Washer Transmission 3360629, 388253 Kit Installation
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This applies to just about every whirlpool built direct drive washer built from 1982 to 2011 or so. Save yourself a fortune and fix it yourself.
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Man, I have been working on these direct drives for years. I had no idea how easy the transmissions were to service. I will be doing a lot of these from now on! Thank you for such a good video!
Was watching this video to learn more about my washer. I wound up checking the neutral drain, found that it had failed, and replaced it following this video. Thanks a lot for the real world insight e.g. 2x4 stand with motorplate attached, id’ing the correct kit plate, gasketing the case cover etc. That’s just what I need to keep my old appliances running as long as possible without spending a fortune.
Man, I wish this video had been on UA-cam several years ago when I got rid of my 2001 Kenmore/Whirlpool direct drive for this very same problem. I miss that machine and would have totally fixed it if I had known it was that easy to do. Love the videos. Thanks for posting, Eugene!
This video was EXCELLENT. Very informative, straight to the point and easy to understand. Also, the camera angle was perfect and you could actually see what you were talking about. I liked when you said, “when a homeowner mistakenly gets rid of their old washer and wants to find one like just like it”. That’s ME. The new washers I’ve bought are AWFUL in so many different ways. I wish someone would’ve told me before I had my old one hauled away. Anyways I’ve got a new used one which I LOVE and has worked great for over five years but now it’s not neutral draining. With the help of this video, I’m going to fix it. Thank you so much. This truly was invaluable. Oh and I’m going to replace the clutch assembly while I’m at it. 😉. Two months ago I posted the previous paragraph and want to update: with the help of this video I was able to fix the problem and replace the clutch. Now my 20 year old Whirlpool works like new again. Thanks so much. I hope to never have to buy another washer! 😂
Hi Eugene, I wanted to let you know, I purchased the parts from you, and successfully completed this repair on a relative's 1995 Kenmore 80. Thank you!
Thanks!
Fantastic video! Clear, to the point, with excellent commentary. Our Whirlpool is 34 years old, with just easy replacements of the pump and agitator dogs. Currently investigating a transmission or clutch or brake issue, but determined to fix it!
Did you fix it? Mine has no Spin and I have tried fixing everything on it
5:34 this is what was broken on mine but it was very subtle. the little plastic part that grabs the metal plate below it was worn out (not broken). So it wasn't grabbing and was just sliding off. I was only able to tell when I compared it to a new kit as the rest of the parts looked good.
all the other pieces were in working condition. This is for people coming in wanting to identify why they are replacing the whole assembly.
That oil is filthy. You are right there to clean it all out properly. Diesel is a whopping $3.00 a gallon. An old paint brush and a pan, most people already have. That transmission takes around 16 WHOLE ounces of fluid. What are we talking a buck or two MAX for fresh fluid? I would pay an extra $3.00 for a clean rebuilt trans as most other people would too.
How does it get filthy? It shouldn't be subject to any contamination unless it gets water in it.
grease/oil for plastic gear transmissions are black, think they have graphite in it
the oil is $20
@@a89proof over many years humidity gets too it, there is a tiny hole on top of the cover so pressure will equalize.
@@a89proof Dale you giblet head, oil breaks down like anything else in life, and if something breaks down one more time I'm gonna kick your ass!
Just a very, clean, clear, plain-spoken, repair instruction. Thanks very much.
Excellent video, just what I needed to see. I had narrowed the problem down to the transmission jamming. It turned out one of the two pins, the pin that held the spring loaded piece had fall off the plate! Now for a rebuild kit.
Thank you so much, I love my 80 series washer and thanks to you and other you tubers I can fix it...thank you for the part no.s.
Tnx!!!
Here is a man who respects his customers. Keep that.
Do not put any oil on the transmission shaft, it will end up in the clutch causing the washer not to spin. I use a very little bit of high temperature wheel bearing grease, it stays in place even after it gets warm.
I hardly ever leave comments, although I must say you did an excellent job of explaining this. Many thanks from the appliance servicing community.
Some Whirlpool direct drive washers were designed to neutral drain; others were designed to spin drain. We have two direct drive washers, 1984 and 1998 models. Both have *always* spin drained.
The only one I'm aware that should spin drain is the first two model years when they went in the minis. Easy way to tell if it's as designed is if the timer pauses the motor and restarts, if no pause, was made to spin drain.
I love the whirlpool direct drive washer and will use them until I die. I had some apartment buildings and I got coin operated washers for the residents. They were basically the same as any other whirpool washer with the control panel simplified and the timer was one that was triggered by a coin slide. I had thousands of loads run on these washers and all the repairs were very easy and I hardly had to service them. The neutral fault did happen a couple of times but people throw these machines out all the time and I would just grab them for parts before taking them to the scarpyard. I never tried to rebuild a transmission I would just swap in another from a scrapped machine.
I did this to my Kenmore 80 series that is a rebranded Whirlpool DD. The little flat spring had broken making it not drain. Used the rebuild kit and a new clutch along with new synthetic oil in the transmission fixed the problem.
I did that for all of 2 in 15 years because transmissions were plentiful. That was the opposite fail in the first two years of production btw. The transmissions originally went into the minis and pumped while spinning, the timer had no pause, so when they failed they'd pump out but not spin, stop and start spin again and they'd go. The transmissions from them worked perfectly fine in the newer ones with the pause. If a newer one failed like yours, they'd work in the minis.
Awesome video! This machines were the best ever made...I think...lol
You did forget to rebuild the agitate cam on the agitator shaft, when that bit goes bad, the machine will agitate and spin on the spin cycle O:, seems seldom though.
The sealant anaerobic gasket sealer it is made for for transmission cases . Recognize when i took apart it stayes stick unless it exposed to air for long times and can mix with oil with any harm
I like the Freemason compass symbol stamped on the cover
Interestingly I had to do the opposite! I had to take a newer DD transmission and retro-fit it into my 1983 model w/o the neutral drain. for that, you remove the metal c-shaped arm, and the spring loaded plastic arm, the other plastic piece MUST remain in place as that is the spin pawl that allows it to enter a spin cycle.
Thanks you saved me a lot a money best of luck Thank you for your great video
It’s still not clear why he changed that part? Was it broken? Worn out? Cause to me they both seemed same.
Because it's not delaying when it goes into pump mode it's going straight into spin while it's pumping which will tear up the clutch and everything because all of that water weight with the clothes is just too much it's supposed to drain the water and then start to spin mode, there's just too much stress on that transmission when it's pumping and spinning at the same time without a delay that eventually it will fail prematurely that's what a lot of machines have wrong with them and why they only last a year or two versus 10 to 12 years between repair these machines are iron-built they can always be fixed no matter what
My Kenmore (Whirlpool) is 25 years old and it is something I want to keep running. So I was looking at the most expensive repairs that I might encounter. I don't think I want a High Efficiency machine because of the long cycle time.
Great video BTW., I just did a transmission rebuild in my 1993 KA. Washer. Still waiting for the coupler to be delivered to see if it's fixed.
Great video i learned alot thanks for playing it to us viewers.
Great video and yes only replace what is bad I agree. I have a few rust spots on my basket wich I cleaned with iron out. I'm going looking for re coating ceramic if you have any information on ceramic coatings I'll be back to watch/read your input. Of course no obligation but you might have already done this so no questions are stupid right 🤔
You did a Good, Job Explaining? In detail that's Good? Very Good Job?
Super Video, these old mechanical machines are far superior the the modern computerized trash out there
the only weak part is the annoying nylon gear, subject to stripping off all its teeth!
My clutch went bad recently, and it appears that there's oil leaking around the seal on the shaft. Any suggestions for part numbers and how? The one in the top cover ought to be self-explanatory, but there appears to be a second one between the shaft and the small collar that the clutch rests on, and other than jamming a pick in there and hoping, I've no idea the best method to change it.
Really not a hard transmission to work with.
Great video Thank You God bless
What oil is used in these transmissions? Is the same type they used in GE filter-flos?
always wanted to see this. Thanks! Also curious, what kind of oil is used?
Any thoughts on fixing the bi-directional agitator? Mine just twists to the right, instead of back and forth. Excellent video by the way, these old machines are light years better than the Cabrio I just got rid of.
agitator dogs
Excellent video however you failed to put gear oil in it and specify how many ounces or did I miss it?
I see the baseplates to be the same I just see the difference with the holes
Thank you.
Sir i have a question.. my washing machine has a loud sound. Sounds like a sliding gear..
Any suggestions. Or idea what it cost?. Thanks in advance..
So, I have a type 111 washer, (Direct drive trans) and I noticed that sometimes in the middle of a spin cycle it will occasionally make a loud noise and almost stop, like someone slammed on the brakes for a second. Any idea where I should look to diagnose this problem?
I have like a knocking on my Roper washer and figured I’d change the oil but didn’t know what kind of gasket maker they used , But anyways it’s more quiet now and will last longer than the newer electronic washers ..
my roper has knocked from day one, when I did this repair it quieted it down a bit but it's just the nature of the design.
Thanks. Short and sweet.
Thanks FOR yours... Video tutorial
The main shaft free spins, is that right? Shouldnt it drive?
Is it possible that a broken neutral drain issue could cause the washer to not spin? I put on a new clutch and it worked when testing prior to putting water in the tub but when added water it drained the water but did never spin. THANKS
Did it fix it? I am having that problem.
thank you so much!
Do you spay an neuter all of your rescue appliances?
It would be useful to show which of old parts were broken or worn.
Fixing these may become more important, as I saw that Reliable Parts was, for the first time, backordered on transmissions. Maybe they're stopping manufacture.
The end of life of these is when they're leaking oil through the top and contaminating the clutch, is that fixable?
Looks like you forgot the plastic washer that goes UNDER the clutch drum??
How does it spin the pump only but not spin the basket ? since both connected to the motor shaft.
Question: Awesome video thank you so much. I hear my washer spinning with a high pitch so something is turning fast but the washing isn't spinning. I'm going to replace the clutch first but when I get it assembled can I run it with the agitator off and see if the shaft is spinning or maybe by that time it's already connected. I'm wondering if the gear in the tranny could be stripped but I don't want to open just yet.
Im confused, isnt the drum supposed to spin as it drains? My washer works in all cycles except when it drains the drum doesnt spin. I can get it to engage if i stop the cycle and put some forward pressure on the agitator, tgen restart the cycle and all is fine until it needs to drain again. Im not sure if my problem is the gear and sprag in the transmission, or the clutch under the drum. Ive been fighting this for months. Thank you!
You didn’t mention the plastic piece that goes under the clutch. That is a very important part!
It's on there but your right, if you forget it your clutch won't work at all.
Hi. Great work on the video both on the spoken parts and camera work. I've got a maytag washer top load that I can't get to spin or anything except fill with water. Its mostly taken apart. Should the drum turn freely once the motor is off? Also the top part of my agitator spins both directions freely but no go on the bottom part of agitator. Thanks
Hi, awesome video, do you have a video to show how to repair a transmition for whirlpool expert system
Iv'e gotten 20 -21 yr's out of my stock clutch kit
What usually does them in is a comforter that snags on the top ring or pump that stops.
Thanks
I enjoyed your video I went to Appliance part store . They claim you can't get parts for transmission. I was looking foe a seal. So I put the old one back in . Fill it with grease. Looked like you replaced one plate , on the rebuild. Where can you get parts? Thanks
look at 8:43 - there is a white plastic spacer on old clutch band - did you put that on the new heavy duty clutch band ? didn't mention anything in video about this part.
Lorain Furniture....Thanks for your amazing tutorials!!! Just yesterday, the transmission on my 2002 Kitchenaid Superba broke...is it worth getting it fixed... or should I get a new washing machine? If I HAVE to get a new one, I was thinking of buying a Maytag MVWP575GW...
@@LorainFurnitureandAppliance Thank you so much for the fast response!!! Do you rebuild these transmissions?
@@LorainFurnitureandAppliance Thanks again for your quick response!!!..the model is a KAWS850JQ...purchased brand new on 08.02.2002...I added this information for anyone reading this...Lorain Furniture, you are one honest person/businessman!!! Thanks for letting me know that I can keep my lovely KitchenAid Superba!!!
Did you add change oil???
can you use you use regular 10/30 car oil instead of gear oil?
Do you have a video in agitator not working. Mine dosent agitate. Timer click the it spin drains like in this video. Very good video by the way
My machine is only agitating very little. The transmission shaft is able to be stopped by hand. Could this be a fix for it? Thanks for anyone that can help point me. I don’t want to buy a new washer
Hi, did you fix the agitation problem? I'm having the same problem
@@bigpun761 yes it was a weak transmission. I went to a local parts store and they pointed me in a direction to buy a rebuild kit from Amazon or to buy a used one. The job was not hard. It can be done under two hours easily. Took about a hour. Transmission was 60$
I chose to buy a used rebuilt transmission and I had forgot how good this washer used to agitate until it was fixed
@@tennesseemattoutdoors5405 than you for the reply. Then that what I'll do is buy a used transmission .
Where did you buy the rebuilt transmission?
Do you know of a way to defeat the automatic oscillation of the main shaft so that the transmission can be used as an one way speed reduction?
No, if you remove any parts it won't work at all.
I wanted this but one of the appliance sellers on line said the commercial grade would only work with machines that came with it. Why do they say this when I see videos that replace the 3 pads with ones that have more pads.
Magic .Mark he’s probably just going by the book lol you can do it
I just put a 6 pad in place of a 3 pad in mine and seems to work just fine. Balance spring also. Less than $20 on Amazon for both.
This is like dropping the trans pan on a car, replacing the filter and then using the same oil. You should replace the oil.
kenjams mmmm naaa
What about the output shaky. Does it come out and how much end play does it have
i rebuilt these. but i did replace the gear oil. 2 reasons. 1) after many many years the oil thickens up also it's old 2) while case is open might as well change the oil with fresh gear oil u can use whrilpool replacement oi which is 90w gear oil. i used a high premium marine 90w gear oil that repels water and resist corrosion.. replace the drive shaft seal and the top shaft seal those two tend to wear out and cause leaks.
Doing what you did seems to be the bear minimum of a rebuild job. later down the road the transmission will start leaking thought those seals. if you got it open why not rebuild it the whole way instead of part way?
You are completely right. I was wondering what oil is an alternative to the expensive kenmore gear oil. Thanks
Don't forget to put in gear oil before putting on cover,he forgot to.
I have a sears stackable washer dryer. The washer is locked up. I would like to rebuild it. Can you help me locate the part to do this? Paul
So the washer I am working on will fill for the rinse cycle, rinse and then pause then it will spin and pump at the same time. without pausing again.
it's the neutral drain kit, they are common to wear out after many years, about $20 on amazon.
I have a knocking during spin. Rebuilt the neutral part and replaced the clutch. Knock is still there during spin after draining? WTH is going on. is this a drive nut problem?
How long does the oil last in one of these transmissions?
Wrll here goes. My whirlpool ultimate care ii does agitate, does drain, but does not spin. Replaced the clutch and my w8fe actually replaced the motor coupler 10 months ago when I had Covid... And the coupler oroved yo be ok too. We reset the machine by doing the unplug / plug lid flip 6bt8mes within 12csecinds... And... Still no spin. Everyone is saying the neutral pack.
I'll let you know.
I have an old whirlpool stylemaster. Mine is leaving the clothes much wetter than it used to and I've noticed oil underneath the machine. Would I be looking at a new gearbox, or should I just try to replace the oil and reseal the case? Or is it the drain pump causing the main issue I'm having
Doesnt make sense , so what was worn out ? The metal plate? The timer drains the water with pump
Okay.. I am going to clear this up.. apparently, I am the only one that bought this kit from Eugene. If you see the X, you use the kit with the blue lock tight. it is just below on a half-moon shape portion of the gear and the X is very clear.
The tub seal never goes out on those direct drive washers
my neutral drain is not working, but it also makes a terrible hammering sound during the drain/spin cycle.. .. is that all neutral drain related?
What causes water to enter the transmission? Thanks.
Is the 388253A rebuild kit the same as the 388253 kit?
Can a coupler that is on it's way out cause a loud rumbling noise?
I have a Kenmore 90 series washer and I love it, but.. It is now making a grinding noise when it us agitating. If I use the heavy duty mode it is fine but any of the other cycles make noise. Any ideas that may help?
I have the same issue
Looks like the 6 pad clutch drum is larger than the 3 pad one. Any issues installing a 6 pad commercial in a 3 pad clutch?
At the 6 minute mark, is there a certain position that piece under the spin gear goes?
I have been having trouble with them I thought the metal piece went on first then the plastic gear. But, it just spins around I see from your video, looks like I have been doing it backwards The metal ban looks like it fits around the plastic gear and not the other way
Next question, are they supposed to be glued together or does the metal just clamp around the gear and they both spin around by hand? reinstall and they catch whatever gear they are supposed to catch or mesh with?
This may have just solved a simple problem for me.
I have a machine that three motors tend to get hot on Thinking the neutral drain might be the problem. I do not know if I checked for spinning while draining
I have had them do that before and thought some just did that. May very well be what is causing these motors to heat up.
nothing is glued together, carefully put the parts in the proper place being extra careful not to misplace the part at 5:20 it's easy to not set in in correctly, the top gear will need to be fiddled with, (rotated around a few times) and you will feel it clunk into place flush and down where it belongs. good luck.
GOOD JOB!!!
What is the point of the two plates
Why would changing a metal plate make a difference? There's no sign of wear and tear on this metal plate
How does that clutch work??
What kind of oil you used
What other parts can go on the transmission??????
My kenmore 60 has had problems spinning regular to large loads on and off over a few years now. I replaced the coupling after it broke, and it worked for a long time. Then about two years ago I replaced the gearbox when it had problems draining and spinning again, and that seemed to work for the last two years.
Recently, it acted up again,and I put one of of these commercial clutches on, after finding the regular clutch slipping. But after running it once or twice, it still has problems, refusing to spin all of the lightest of loads, with a loud noise that almost sounds like the coupling had gone out, but it was fine. It still drains.
With a good clutch, coupler, does this mean that the two year old gear box is toast?
Thank you for a great video. My Kenmore 90 series machine is spinning a little too slow and making a clicking noise while spinning. How do I know if it needs the transmission rebuilt or a clutch or something else? I just replaced the coupler a few weeks ago and it looks ok (have not removed it to check though.) Is it difficult to remove the transmission. Should I replace other parts at the same time? Thank you!
A mechanical click could be coming from the coupler. A popping/clicking sound could be coming from the motor. You would have to look at the clutch to see it's condition. If it looks worn, replace it. After that, the way I've seen people test from the motor through the transmission is to remove them and run them outside the washer. If the sound is gone, it isn't either and it's up the chain.
When I pulled mine the clutch had a dry black grease in it and the top had a sticky black grease as well that does not come off easy, Fantastik did not loosen it much. Since it was in the clutch housing as well, where did it come from? I see no water on the floor after a wash. Directly under the clutch the top of the case was clean. But all around on the edges is a sticky black grease. Could me gear case be leaking? But how would it get into the clutch area? Thanks for any help?
What about the part that dropped down into the oil when you pulled out the big gear?
@@edwinconrad1993 sorry, it's been 3 years. I didn't mention anything dropping in nor do I recall. Sorry I can't be more help. The machine is still working.
Will you start doing videos on dryer's and how to properly use them?
Do you have to replace the metal plate? The allen bolt/screw would not come loose.
Take a butane torch and put a little heat to it.