Great instruction. I’ve got a 1991 k1500 with an eye code so I am looking for the diagnostic process to figure out why it’s throwing a code before I throw parts at it. I appreciate the insights! Keep up the good work.
Thanks, Andy. The EGR replacement might cure my fluctuating idle RPM. Also I took my "new" used '88 GT to my mechanic for new fluids, plugs and fuel filter. Runs considerably better now. No more motor hiccups while at slow speeds or coasting. So the plugs were the culprit. But while on the lift, the engine cradle was rusted out on both sides on the rear of the frame. Typical old car from the north, eh? Good 'ole ebay had one for my '88, w/no rust and powder coated. I'll order fuel lines as well. We couldn't even try to swap the filter w/o breaking the line. I have to say, bro, that I miss the 9 psi fuel pumps. A little rubber hose: good as new. ☺
Ok - at the 1:15 - 1:30 mark: How did you know that power was coming in from the "right lead" and how do normal people learn this fact? And when you said "we'll go ahead and ground this" what did you ground and how did you do it?
I mean I'm sure it's a good video so long as you're an electrical engineer. Watching some dude just touching hid probes from a multimeter to random parts of the solenoid I'm trying to learn about really isn't helpful. The average person, and I just showed a bunch of em, kinda knows what a multimeter is, but has absolutely no idea how to use one. Someone who is watching this video very likely knows what a multimeter is but maybe doesn't consider themselves enough of an expert to just guess why the creator knows what part of the harness does what (absolutely no explanation - I must be really stupid for even wondering) or what wire is being touched to what part in order to get a result. I'm coming back to this video as soon as I'm psychic😊
Hi! On my e220 w212 2015 i have P042F73 egr positioner (high pressure) is jammed closed. The actuator does not open. And i tried to move by hand the egr valve by lever at that time when engine is in limp mode with engine on and the egr valve is stuck, if i stop engine then i can move the valve easily even if i start engine again, just sometimes car gets in limp mode and valve get blocked in closed position. What makes high pressure that valve can t be moved? Egr valve is clean .Thanks
I have a 93 Chev C2500 5.7L V8. I started getting the 'service engine soon' light, looked at some videos on youtube and started changing stuff. I put a new oxygen sensor on (looked good, probably didn't need replacing) and then put a new EGR Valve on it (looked good, probably didn't need replacing) and I am still getting the service engine soon light. Since I have eliminated two of the possibilities, what are the odds it is the solenoid? It doesn't come on all of the time and when it does, it doesn't always stay on. I know you can get the dash to flash the different codes by sticking a paper clip in the thingy under the dash but there is no mention of the solenoid in that vid. I am almost certain that it isn't the brake switch being stuck. This old truck has only 130,000 miles on it. Don't want to throw it away. I am not a mechanic by any stretch, just don't want to pay some shop $100 an hour to fix something I can fix. What are your thoughts. Thanks, loved the video, gives me hope.
First thing you need to do is connect a scanning tool to you vehicle so you can get the actual engine codes, that will tell you exactly where to look. If not, you’re going to be replacing things that are not needed.
Hey Andy... Just asking to be clear. When you're blowing through the side with 3 ports, are you blocking the others on that side to see if it blows back through the fresh air intake port?
He had the + connected to the negative on the port side, that is why it was reading _ 11.98, also the blowing part was totally out of focus on the two other ports, in my opinion it was an ok video.
Great video.I took my egr selenoid apart.Everything was connected.No rust like yours.I test selenoid no response.Could the switch be bad?Any help would be appreciated.Did you test the one you renuilt ?Thanks
Good video. I noticed you were reading negative12 volts, so I think the right (upper) connection is Ground and the left (lower) one is Ignition 12V. I think you had your black DMM probe on the left (lower) connetion (your probe points swapped). What are the other two electrical connections for?
@@PhillipsVision Thanks, I did find a schematic drawing of the solenoid. Pin A is Ignition 12V, B is the Solenoid Activate signal (Open Inactive/Gnd Active). C is the feedback signal (Open No Vacuum to EGR/Gnd Vaccum is applied to EGR), D is Gnd. There is a diode inside between pins A and B. It is reversed biased. This is called a Flyback Diode. When the signal on pin B goes to Gnd, current passes through the solenod coil - the diode does not conduct. When the signal on pin B opens, the coil is shut off and it's magnetic field collapses - this induces a voltage spike in the coil but this spike is negative with respect to 12V. The diode conducts in this case and "absorbs" the spike so it does not damage other circuits in the car. The solenoid will work if the diode is blown (open) but it is not good for the car - you may hear noise on an AM radio. Check the diode on pins A and B with an Ohmmeter. You should get high resistance one way, and low resistance with the leads switched. I didn't say which way the meter leads should go because some Ohmeters put out a negative voltage on the red lead (most properly put a positive voltage on the red lead and this helps identify proper polarity of diodes). In this case we are sure the diode was built into the solenoid assembly properly - you just need to make sure you see different resistance readings with the leads applied both ways to make sure that "protection" diode is still functioning properly. Fieros use a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal to activate the solenoid to allow vacuum to open the EGR. Quick pulses in rapid sucession cause a little bit of exhaust to be pulled into the intake manifold via the EGR, while longer pulses allow more exhaust gas into the manifold. One hose on the Solenoid comes from the intake manifold (this is the source of the vacuum for the EGR). One hose/tube goes to the EGR (the vacuum switched on/off via the solenoid). One hose goes to the air intake cleaner (some kind of venting but not sure why). And finally another hose/tube that connects to the same hose/tube that goes to the EGR. This allows the solenoid unit to confirm (send feedback to the ECM) that vacuum is being applied to the EGR when the solenoid is activated. Another note: Make sure you don't apply 12V to the wrong pin on the Solenoid, you may blow out the diode. The diode is there to absorb the brief spike when the solenoid is deactivated, it is not designed to take a contant negative 12V (power reversed). Doing so will blow out the diode in seconds. The EGR will still work with a blown diode, but now the solenoid with put negative voltage spikes on the Ignition 12V signal and that could damage other circuits in the car over time. Reversing the leads with an Ohmeter is fine because it uses milliamps to make a diode measurement, but reversed power leads can supply many amps that the diode can't handle when reversed.
@@PhillipsVision I've watched all of your Fiero videos, and most of them had it, didn't know it was addressed, but glad it was... Thanks again for the very helpful videos!
@@PhillipsVision Thanks very much Andy. Nice to ask a question and someone, such as yourself, takes the time to answer it. Appreciate it very much...jc
@@PhillipsVision no sputtering,idle is fine just strong exhaust smell.connection port to read codes is broke,but it use to read 32,35 I had something's fixed codes went away,but smell didn't an now can't read codes
Great instruction. I’ve got a 1991 k1500 with an eye code so I am looking for the diagnostic process to figure out why it’s throwing a code before I throw parts at it. I appreciate the insights! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks, Andy. The EGR replacement might cure my fluctuating idle RPM. Also I took my "new" used '88 GT to my mechanic for new fluids, plugs and fuel filter. Runs considerably better now. No more motor hiccups while at slow speeds or coasting. So the plugs were the culprit. But while on the lift, the engine cradle was rusted out on both sides on the rear of the frame. Typical old car from the north, eh? Good 'ole ebay had one for my '88, w/no rust and powder coated. I'll order fuel lines as well. We couldn't even try to swap the filter w/o breaking the line. I have to say, bro, that I miss the 9 psi fuel pumps. A little rubber hose: good as new. ☺
Gary McAleer yes, there is a good chance that is the problem, could also be the Idle Air Control Valve.
Ok - at the 1:15 - 1:30 mark: How did you know that power was coming in from the "right lead" and how do normal people learn this fact? And when you said "we'll go ahead and ground this" what did you ground and how did you do it?
I tested voltage on the egr wiring harness and the multimeter read 4.95V. Why would I not be getting 12V?
Whenever I pulled off the vacuum line off the EGR, it had no suction, but the line going to the solenoid does have suction so could it be this?
I mean I'm sure it's a good video so long as you're an electrical engineer. Watching some dude just touching hid probes from a multimeter to random parts of the solenoid I'm trying to learn about really isn't helpful. The average person, and I just showed a bunch of em, kinda knows what a multimeter is, but has absolutely no idea how to use one. Someone who is watching this video very likely knows what a multimeter is but maybe doesn't consider themselves enough of an expert to just guess why the creator knows what part of the harness does what (absolutely no explanation - I must be really stupid for even wondering) or what wire is being touched to what part in order to get a result. I'm coming back to this video as soon as I'm psychic😊
Hi! On my e220 w212 2015 i have P042F73 egr positioner (high pressure) is jammed closed. The actuator does not open. And i tried to move by hand the egr valve by lever at that time when engine is in limp mode with engine on and the egr valve is stuck, if i stop engine then i can move the valve easily even if i start engine again, just sometimes car gets in limp mode and valve get blocked in closed position. What makes high pressure that valve can t be moved? Egr valve is clean .Thanks
at 1:30 seeing as the meter showed -12V I think you had that around the wrong way.
Thank God you pointed it out keyboard warrior
@@vicferrarisgarage firing a solenoid the wrong way, is not good for it.
Great content!
Kaden T thanks, I appreciate the feedback
Great video
I have a 93 Chev C2500 5.7L V8. I started getting the 'service engine soon' light, looked at some videos on youtube and started changing stuff. I put a new oxygen sensor on (looked good, probably didn't need replacing) and then put a new EGR Valve on it (looked good, probably didn't need replacing) and I am still getting the service engine soon light. Since I have eliminated two of the possibilities, what are the odds it is the solenoid? It doesn't come on all of the time and when it does, it doesn't always stay on. I know you can get the dash to flash the different codes by sticking a paper clip in the thingy under the dash but there is no mention of the solenoid in that vid. I am almost certain that it isn't the brake switch being stuck. This old truck has only 130,000 miles on it. Don't want to throw it away. I am not a mechanic by any stretch, just don't want to pay some shop $100 an hour to fix something I can fix. What are your thoughts. Thanks, loved the video, gives me hope.
First thing you need to do is connect a scanning tool to you vehicle so you can get the actual engine codes, that will tell you exactly where to look. If not, you’re going to be replacing things that are not needed.
Hey Andy... Just asking to be clear. When you're blowing through the side with 3 ports, are you blocking the others on that side to see if it blows back through the fresh air intake port?
How did u determine which port was the positive or negative. How did you test it to find the proper ports to initially conduct the test?
jennifer campbell you’ll need to find a wiring diagram for your car and determine your wiring
He had the + connected to the negative on the port side, that is why it was reading _ 11.98, also the blowing part was totally out of focus on the two other ports, in my opinion it was an ok video.
I'm changing from a 4.3 to a 5.0 truck originally had 4 pin connector with 3 wires one on engine has 2 wire connector any help would be great
Great video.I took my egr selenoid apart.Everything was connected.No rust like yours.I test selenoid no response.Could the switch be bad?Any help would be appreciated.Did you test the one you renuilt ?Thanks
Did you test the harness to make sure power it getting to the solenoid?
@@PhillipsVision Yep and hooked to a 12 volt battery no click.
@@snowman307 solenoid might be bad
@@PhillipsVision I was thinking that.Thanks for the help.
Good video. I noticed you were reading negative12 volts, so I think the right (upper) connection is Ground and the left (lower) one is Ignition 12V. I think you had your black DMM probe on the left (lower) connetion (your probe points swapped). What are the other two electrical connections for?
Correct, they were reversed. The other two should be for the vacuum switch and signal
@@PhillipsVision Thanks, I did find a schematic drawing of the solenoid. Pin A is Ignition 12V, B is the Solenoid Activate signal (Open Inactive/Gnd Active). C is the feedback signal (Open No Vacuum to EGR/Gnd Vaccum is applied to EGR), D is Gnd. There is a diode inside between pins A and B. It is reversed biased. This is called a Flyback Diode. When the signal on pin B goes to Gnd, current passes through the solenod coil - the diode does not conduct. When the signal on pin B opens, the coil is shut off and it's magnetic field collapses - this induces a voltage spike in the coil but this spike is negative with respect to 12V. The diode conducts in this case and "absorbs" the spike so it does not damage other circuits in the car. The solenoid will work if the diode is blown (open) but it is not good for the car - you may hear noise on an AM radio. Check the diode on pins A and B with an Ohmmeter. You should get high resistance one way, and low resistance with the leads switched. I didn't say which way the meter leads should go because some Ohmeters put out a negative voltage on the red lead (most properly put a positive voltage on the red lead and this helps identify proper polarity of diodes). In this case we are sure the diode was built into the solenoid assembly properly - you just need to make sure you see different resistance readings with the leads applied both ways to make sure that "protection" diode is still functioning properly.
Fieros use a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal to activate the solenoid to allow vacuum to open the EGR. Quick pulses in rapid sucession cause a little bit of exhaust to be pulled into the intake manifold via the EGR, while longer pulses allow more exhaust gas into the manifold.
One hose on the Solenoid comes from the intake manifold (this is the source of the vacuum for the EGR). One hose/tube goes to the EGR (the vacuum switched on/off via the solenoid). One hose goes to the air intake cleaner (some kind of venting but not sure why). And finally another hose/tube that connects to the same hose/tube that goes to the EGR. This allows the solenoid unit to confirm (send feedback to the ECM) that vacuum is being applied to the EGR when the solenoid is activated.
Another note: Make sure you don't apply 12V to the wrong pin on the Solenoid, you may blow out the diode. The diode is there to absorb the brief spike when the solenoid is deactivated, it is not designed to take a contant negative 12V (power reversed). Doing so will blow out the diode in seconds. The EGR will still work with a blown diode, but now the solenoid with put negative voltage spikes on the Ignition 12V signal and that could damage other circuits in the car over time.
Reversing the leads with an Ohmeter is fine because it uses milliamps to make a diode measurement, but reversed power leads can supply many amps that the diode can't handle when reversed.
Hi, watching your video in 2024, just a quick question, I checked my car egr solenoid harness and the power was 9.70v . Should I be concerned?
@@ibneamin3925 what is the battery voltage
@@PhillipsVision hi, thanks for your reply. Battery voltage is 12v.
@@ibneamin3925 12 volts is on the low side. Should be around 12.7, voltage at EGR should be around the same
Andy, piece of advice, you gotta lower the volume of your intro, it is super loud and the rest of the video is at normal volume.
Thanks, that’s an older video of mine and has already been addressed👍
@@PhillipsVision I've watched all of your Fiero videos, and most of them had it, didn't know it was addressed, but glad it was... Thanks again for the very helpful videos!
Hi Andy, so you do not have to check the ohms on the solenoid itself?...thks..jc
You can as well
@@PhillipsVision ok, thks
@@PhillipsVision Forgot to ask. What value would I be looking to see....thks jc
@@Samson-EC 32 to 35 ohms is average for an EGR Solenoid
@@PhillipsVision Thanks very much Andy. Nice to ask a question and someone, such as yourself, takes the time to answer it. Appreciate it very much...jc
What are some symptoms of a bad EGR
checho hermandez High RPMs At Idle and/or racing engine
What were the symptoms of the EGR valve solenoid
greg spight engine racing, high RPMs at idle. This could also be caused by a cracked EGR Tube, so you’ll need to do a process of elimination
@@PhillipsVision mine is running rich,bad fumes smell,replaced just about everything except oxygen sensor and egr valve solenoid
greg spight is your engine sputtering or racing? Is is generating any error codes?
@@PhillipsVision no sputtering,idle is fine just strong exhaust smell.connection port to read codes is broke,but it use to read 32,35 I had something's fixed codes went away,but smell didn't an now can't read codes
greg spight normally, a Damaged EGR will cause high idle like a Vacuum Leak. A bad O2 sensor can cause this or a failing MAF Sensor.