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How To: Subframe Replacement On Dodge Charger/Challenger!
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2017
- How to remove and replace a subframe also known as engine cradle in a dodge charger or challenger hellcat. This guide also works for most if not all Chrysler LX platforms such as the Chrysler 300, older chargers and challengers.Car Videos.
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My son and i did this on our 08 charger 3.5l for certification. 6 hrs jack stands hand tools painted undercoated whole 9 yards. Easy peazy 👍 auto wrecker part $150 🇨🇦. Time spent with son. PRICELESS
Awesome! Definitely quality time with your son 💪🏻💪🏻
What did you do to keep engine in place
How many bolts is it in all to drop the sub frame ?
@@sixavedee3325 4 just for the frame only. 8 in total if you include the control arm and all
You forgot to show us something very important, if you want people to do this them selfs you HAVE to tell them where to mount the support bar for the engine
Where you support the engine
@@arkangel2351 They said from the front, because it's backwheel drive the drive train will hold the rest in place.
@@mattroy3154 I’m kinda confused. So i would get a thick rope and wrap the engine and tie each side of some type of wood or metal & have it sitting on top ? Being help up by both fender sides ?
@@Realofficialdee Yeah something like that. Probably resting on top of the strut towers
@@mattroy3154 10-4 appreciate it bro
I have done this multiple times as hitting curbs hard really does a number on subframes. Replaced a few where it drove the front subframe tube back far enough to shatter the oil pan. This can be easily done without a lift in about 3-4 hours. Block the body on both sides with frame jacks or solid blocks of wood. Remove wheels. I used a blue engine support bar that stretches across the strut towers. It then has a bar that goes forward and rest on the front radiator support. A chain ties to it that then goes to the engine. It comes with hooks that are not needed. They are too long. I just wrapped the chain around the bar and put a long bolt through it. Run a decent sized floor jack under the frame with a piece of plywood to evenly support the subframe. Remove 4 subframe bolts and let the subframe down a couple of inches. This makes removing the steering shaft bolt easier. There is no need to mark it. It has a large flat on the shaft and will only go on one way. Remove calipers and tie up to frame. Remove top control arm nut and break it free. Completely drop the frame down and roll or slide out. Swap everything over outside of the car where it's easier to work on. Repeat process for installation. Having two people to do this and an impact for the larger subframe bolts definitely helps. Don't remove lower ball joints from spindle. That's a pain in the butt. Just remove the control arm bolts from the subframe and slide out.
You guys did a great job, and it helped me do my k member. However I wish you guys would have talked more about squaring, the k member to the rest of the car.
thank you so much for this. im a big diy mechanic i dont trust anyone to work on any vehicle of mine. blessed to have people teach
Wish I could get my Charger to New Jersey and have them do this! Great job guys!
I took a subframe off a charger in the junkyard and it wasn't nearly as complicated as this... and I was alone. Took about 40 min to fully remove. It's always interesting to see other people do the same work you did. Good video!
Can you elaborate? Where you able to do the replacement using jacks and jack stands (as oppose to a lift [in video])?
Details would be great.
Brah you work faster than the dealership I brought mine too taking them 6 weeks and still haven’t got it back from the body shop
It took me 30 minutes to dismantle the right hand suspension components till I had the cradle off, but it wasn’t easy. Those bolts are TIGHT, and don’t get easier as they get more loose. Turns out there are t any bushings in the front K-member. Wasted time
Thanks guys,, going have to replace the subframe next week. Its got a dent on it. I can see a lift is a must.
Mines has has a big dent , do you have a IG ?
@@bankrollcharles7267 It was easy with a lift. Just use a ratchet wrench on mounts. I replace front torchon mounts and lower control arms. New lower ball joints if needed. Did an alignment to be perfect. Road like a new car.
Where does it have a dent? And are you sure it’s a dent and not a factory clearance shape? I thought mine was bent too at one point, on the rear rail on top to the far right, but this was on my daughter’s Magnum and she had been hit from the left pretty hard. Hard enough to bend the lower control arm bolt at the subframe, made the knuckle bend to where the top was crushing the tire, and snapped the A-arm, as well as denting the strut pretty heavily. I thought it was odd to see a dent on the opposite side, and it totally looked like the way a tubular member would deform in such a hit. Yet, it didn’t. So I pulled my Magnum up on ramps and compared. Lo and behold it had the same dents in the same place, but not EXACTLY. Not sure why. So I went online and looked at the same spot on about 15 other front subframes for sale, and there it was, the same or very similar dent. At one point I thought I was going to have to go to LKQ and pull one off. Not fun at the junkyard. But it turned out to not be anything wrong. It is very deceiving.
Actually you are wrong about there not being anything adjustable on the subframe. Technically, at least on the 2005-2008 Lx cars, the only alignment adjustment to be made is toe-in. There is NO adjustment for camber or caster. If those measurements are out of spec, camber bolts are needed, and are placed at the subframe box where the lower control arms mount at the subframe, and they are longitudinally ribbed or fluted to hold whatever position they are placed in for proper align,ent. If you need cam bolts, that means that something else somewhere is worn beyond spec, so they are either a band- aid, or you just want more camber or caster than factory specs. Beyond that, there was a TSB from Chrysler telling the techs how to loosen the subframe mounting bolts, and then shift the whole subframe either very slightly clockwise or counter clockwise to get proper alignment. Problem was that the machine would be telling the tech that all was good and perfect, yet the customer would complain that the car was pulling to the right, 90% of the time that was the complaint. The techs thought they were all wrong and that the machine was correct. Problem is that the factory approved alignment machines don’t sue the frame as reference, only tire position, which is very bad, and the thrust angle is dictated by the diff position, which can also be shifted in its bushings and the rear subframe can also be twisted, it if the thrust angle isn’t perfectly square down the center of the car, the rest will never be right.
Great video. Thanks. Wife just tagged a sidewalk with our Chrysler 300C V8 and put a pretty good dent in the front of the cross member. Gunna have the alignment checked first to see if I need to replace the cross member. I hope I don't but your video was great in case I have to do it. About as easy as changing the K member on my 74 charger.
Nice job learned alot on replacing subframe bent . You guys are great
Thanks for watching
Great video! This is exactly what I need to do on my Challenger and very helpful. Do you have any information or instructions on the fixture you used to support the engine from the topside? And how did you bolt it to the front of the engine?
we fabricated a bracket to fit on our universal engine hanger
@@Freeholdtire right on! Im currently doing one but cant seem to find out where in the engine to bolt on to, any suggestions would be super appreciated
@@ismaelguzman2036 you’ll see a bolt hole facing vertically in two places, near the drivers side front and passenger side rear, on the head. It almost looks like it’s on the intake manifold, but it’s in the head, is on a horizontal surface, and faces vertically. There might be other places to do it, but that’s what I used with an engine hoist and engine leveler between the hoist and engine.
Life saver. I definitely have to do it with little knowledge.
could i use regular wheel lock like the 20 dollar one from walmart ??
thx you for this video !! doing 09 chally subframe is bent..😀
Sweet vid sweet ride !! Hey what size are the front sway bolts left nd righ rear sides on the front frame?? On my right side i have a gap of about an inch on that bolt!!! So m thinking is either broke or loose
Good video man, very interesting
Jay Wilson thanks Jay! I have a ton of content coming and I want to make this channel informative and fun. I'm gonna be dedicating a lot of time to this channel.
Hey I’m changing my subframe also. Where did you mount the support member
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300c srt8 that is in need of the subframe replacement too, along with the passenger side knuckle. How much is the labor cost for this job at that shop?
How much did it cost for labor?
Ran my 2008 charger into the ditch. Replaced a ball joint and control arm, wheel is still crooked. Subframe is bent. Might need to have this done if it can't be repaired. Might end up scrapping it :(
Curious... Did you take the damaged subframe back to salerno duane? I'd think they'd need to reimburse you for that hack job.
Amazing job guys! I need to get this done but I’m scared the mechs in my area. I’ve had one shop tell me they couldn’t get it done
ill do it
Freehold Tire Pros and Automotive Center i gotta do this on mine 2006 charger 5.7 i just wanna no were on the front of the engine you put the chains on motor to the engine support beam
So I recently replaced my subframe on my charger . But now I’m having issues with my drive shaft not wanting to go in . What can it be
Was this a special project for these guys or would they be able to help me out as well? I bought a 2021 challenger hellcat redeye, day three of owning it I hit a good sized rock in a driveway and put a dent in my subframe to where my alignment can't be fixed to specs. I was so mad 😡 I need to get it fixed but, I don't trust my dodge dealership to do this type of job properly. I'm in upstate NY and it's hard to find a reliable place to get work done.
Very good video thanks for the upload on ur Dodge bro..doing some search got to get my done on my 2006 SRT-8
Thanks Ramiro! It should be the same as the video for yours.
Driveway Demons I need the subrame changed in my 300 srt8, for how long would I have to leave the car with you?
Driveway Demons they have a different K-frame, different steering rack, different sway bar, different tension struts, etc etc etc
P Kranz its really the same
Hey you turked suspenssion up in the air!!! I think it needs to be seated in order to turk it nd get benefit not to be under stress when sited !! Also were is this SHOP located !!
Did u reuse the SOC adjustable bolts for adjusting front CA?
thanks for this movie. can we remove upper oil pan on 3.6 durango 2013 without removing subframe?
Was wondering if you had to buy the new sub frame?
Dennis Brindle SRT management said they would cover it.
Where is the shop you used because I need the same job done and I want it done right
I have a 2008 and need to replace subframe. Should I buy née or used? How much is a good price on new?
Please tell me y'all are in Texas 😊
@Driveway Demons 12:45 can you tell me the metric size of the Flex head wrench I’ll need. Thanks
you didnt show the only part i need help with. using the top side engine cradle where do you hold up the engine from? i have all the tool gut everything in the area is too small or plastic.
Did you ever figure it out ? I’m tryna see the same thing
On some cars you can use the front runner on the exhaust manifolds and wrap a chain around both sides.
Hey buddy what is the bracket the stabilizer bar sits in?
Is the subframe any different in a 2014 Charger R/T AWD?
Awesome Work!
How much would this kind of job cost me to do
How long does it take to do it
I need same exact thing done for my 2016 sxt in n.j any suggestions
damn!!!! I disconnected the steering column without locking steering wheel on 2016 challenger 😬 now I'm nervous to start car when I get to that point 😟 help!!!!!!!!
What happen any updates ? I’m doing the same thing currently
@@alexhimar4510did you figure it out?
I have a 2005 dodge magnum rt..I'm replacing my subframe as well because of extreme rust and cracked...have a new subframe but where can I purchase the bolts?
I got mine at the dealer
Does anyone know when replacing a subframe on a 2008 Dodge Avenger does the engine mounts have to come off?
Hey guys, I have a 14 RT charger, when I turn my wheel hard to the left and then left off the brake, I get a clunk from the d/s.. I have new strut tensioners, new inner and outter tie rods, new upper control arms, the noise didn’t start until I got my last alignment.. any ideas what could cause this? It’s only low speeds hard turn on the wheel and only going backwards..I though maybe sub frame bushings but I don’t think that’s it..I think it has something to do with the tension strut..any advise is greatly appreciated.
Would you have to disconnect anything strut/shock related?
I'm curious ! Why did you change the subframe in the first place at the bad dealership ?
Alignment was way off from factory so I wanted to fix it and the dealership the hacked it up.
@@DrivewayDemons Hahahaha an another epic fail from Dodge dealership
How much does the crossmember job cost install labor
Anyway to show more of that engine hanger??
I dont sorry.
@@DrivewayDemons would you be able to ask them how it is constructed? Looks like I’m going to need to do the same for my car
Can you recommend anyone in Arizona?
@drivewaydemons what if I already moved the steering wheel with out locking it can you explain a little more ?
Hopefully you didn't move it very far. The rack & pinion shaft has a large flat on it that only allows the steering shaft to go on one way. All you can do is get the steering wheel straight and make sure the wheels are pointed straight and reassemble. If it's too far off you will damage the clock spring. There's not really a good way to make sure the clock spring is centered. It's all sealed and there's no stops as a reference. They come locked when new in the centered position. But after that, there's nothing centering them.
Great video! Question: Dodge replaced my steering column in my 2016 Charger last year under warranty, to do that did they have to drop my subframe? The reason im asking is that I recently noticed that my passenger front wheel is not centered under the fender(its pushed to the rear about 1/2 inch). I dont see any suspension components bent or broken so im guessing either the subframe is slightly bent or possibly it can be slightly adjusted? .... Just kind of fishing at this point to figure out whats going on and best options to get it corrected .... I do recall hearing a "clicking" noise a couple times from that general area of the car after they replaced the steering column but havent heard it or noticed it lately and car seems to drive fine with the wheel slightly off center but of course I want to get it corrected. Any info is appreciated Thanks!
They had to drop it yes. You should have the subframe centered and alignment done
@@DrivewayDemons Thank you, appreciate it! I was worried something was best with the subframe.
Wow nice job I seen this before
2011+ Chargers are LD
2008-2014 Challengers are LC
2015+ Challengers are LA
All Chrysler 300 are LX
Why don't you just disconnect the battery so you won't have to worry about you starter shorting out
What shop is this? I'm in jersey looking to do one on an 06 awd rt magnum
Freehold tire pros in freehold nj
So why did you do this in the first place? I don’t understand what was wrong with the first one. Those are not a wear item and unless damaged in a relatively serious accident or has rust damage compromising structural integrity, there is little to no reason to ever remove this part. I learned this the hard way. My daughter got a full bushing kit for the car, and it included new lower control arms, tension struts, A arms, shock and spring assembly, sway bar bushings and links, and rack bushings. I removed the sun frame thinking there were bushings to be replaced only to find out that there are not. And it was a pain in the but. Not easy in the garage with no lift and bolts that were very difficult to loosen completely.
Ask me how I know all of this? I have an 06 Magnum RT I bought new and then got the lifetime bumper to bumper Chrysler Max Care warranty. The dealership has been jerking me around since day one, and I had had enough. I kept my cool and stood my ground when they claimed an alignment I should never have had to pay for was done wrong and my car pulled to the right. The car drove straight before they rebuilt my diff, but after it pulled and did all kinds of odd things, like felt as if the whole chassis was shifting around on hard launches, like how a sun-10 second car will pull harder with the tire with more grip, and steer from the back without the tires breaking loose. That’s what my car felt like. All kinds of crap. Plus it wore out a pair of rear tires on the inside shoulder in less than 300 miles after they did this work. Before they did the work, no belts or abnormal wear. After all, they perform a “world class inspection” on every visit, and had the car up in the air, and never noticed any odd wear or belts showing, but then from that Wednesday to the Saturday, three days later I was down to belts? What the hell. They suggested an alignment for a problem which didn’t exist before they did the diff. But I played along. When it was even worse, I let them know. You could literally SEE the toe-in was all wrong, badly. If you can SEE an alignment problem there is something really wrong. The service manager held his ground and said it was perfect, a battle of wills ensued and I stayed cool, but let him know my thoughts. It was a standoff. I returned a month later for an AC compressor which had given up, and they told me to come get my car and that I was banned. Well I went to the mothership and that ban lasted less than a week, and they were forced to fix the problems and make me happy, which they begrudgingly did. That time. I could write a book and actually might. It’s been a hell of a ride and they all can eat shit. Turns out it’s not just them, and not just Chrysler. ALL the manufacturers and ALL the dealerships are out to screw you over. Of course we all know that, but the depth of it would make you furious. Especially if you were in my position and they claim all kinds of BS when I bring my car in for simple repairs I end up doing myself. It’s just nuts.
Your problem is the rear cradle is crooked. When they did the rear differential work, they most likely dropped the subframe. When they put it back in, they didn't realign it to the body correctly. Easy fix for a frame shop or professional alignment shop. Loosen the 4 subframe bolts and slide into the correct position, then retighten. Give up on the dealer and go to a real shop. Give yourself a stress relief. Send the dealer or Dodge the bill for reimbursement.
So why are you replacing the engine cradle if the first place?
is the 2004 dodge neon SRT-4 2.2 turbo a sub frame, full frame or a uni body?
Subframe
First, it's not a 2.2l, it's a 2.4L turbo. The main body of the car is a uni-body. But, all uni-body cars have a sub-frame(also known as a "K" frame) on front wheel drive cars.
My wheelbase is super off, I think the subframe is the problem, all my control arms are fresh. Hoping someone can confirm before I spend $300 and a bunch of time in the shop.
Did you get it fixed ? i am facing same problem everything new and still the tie rod hits the inside of the rim , definitely gonna be the subframe
@@JonathanRodriguez-yx1vv I haven’t driven the car yet ( I live in a snowy area, so salty roads) but from eyeballing it it looks like it may have been the problem
Where did he brace the engine at I can’t find it.
Top strut towers with wood and rubber to prevent scratching
@@DrivewayDemons I just did mine and my steering rack isn’t lining up with my new subframe. I’m stumped
What part of the engine did you guys mount your topside engine support to? Im in the process of rebuilding a wrecked 2017 hellcat charger and need to replace the subframe but im unsure of what point to support the engine from ontop
You don't. They aren't assembled that way. The engine and transmission are mounted to the subframe, and the body is lowered onto it. Standard Operating Practice on any unitbody Mopar since 1960.
@@pkranz937 so if i dropped my subframe, i wouldn’t have to worry about the engine dropping ?
So r the subframe bolts all same lenght nd diameter?
Depending on the model and year, the diameter of the bolts are all the same. The length of the bolts can vary but they are matched front and rear. Some models have all the same length bolts. Some have slightly shorter bolts front or rear, I forget. They are long so an impact to run them in and out really helps. You may have to have an alignment done afterwards as the subframe can slide around slightly. With 4 bolts, it pretty much centers itself especially if you evenly tighten them. Don't run one tight them another and so on. Run them all within an 1/8" of being fully tight so the subframe can float itself into a more centered position. Then slowly tighten them with a ratchet.
I belive is a spec to 136 foot pounds tight.
What are those vents in the fender my 2007 Dodge Charger don't have that
Hallphamazing305 Your 2007 is very different from a 2011+
uhmeizuhngralphf05 they only come on the 2015+ scat pack/SRT and hellcat fascias
Y’all did it in three hours because there were three of you doing it. With a lift and having done it before I could do it in 1 hour.
I agree with power tools. This is not that bad of a job. They did several things the hard way.
@@QwertyQwerty-jq3cu for real. Repairing my daughter’s pride and joy Magnum RT after getting hit hard in the drivers side wheel. Broke the upper an arm and bent the strut shock, broke sway bar end link and the tie -rod end. Cracked the wheels rim a hair. She already had amassed for a future front end build and had the B6 Shocks and Eibach springs, but OEM type A arm and the lower two. The knuckle was bent over some, almost pinching the tire. With the hood and door spared I figured it was an easy rebuild. You could see the slight apron support bend putting BOTH drivers side and passenger side fenders had been pushed to the passenger side almost one inch at front, and about 1/2” half way down towards the bulkhead. So I had to pull it, in my garage. Now THAT is a story. Almost pulled my street side garage wall inwards dramatically while pulling the fender over 1”. In the process I removed the C-Member (engine cradle) so many times I lost count.
So how many bolts it is in all to uninstall subframe ??
4 subframe main bolts, 1 steering shaft bolt, 2 upper control arms ball joints nuts, 4 engine mount nuts and 4 caliper bolts to get the subframe dropped and out. Once out, there are bolts for the lower control arms and sway bar brackets. It takes a large 12mm allen socket for the rear control arm bolts that is pretty much only available at Oreilly's in a 3 piece kit for $15.
Good video but but the reason I watched your video is to see exactly how you supported the engine. Thank 🙃
Thanks for watching
I can’t find the part where he does I’m looking for the same thing man..
On Hemi cars, there is a stud on the top of the engine that you can attach the chain to, then run a nut on the stud. On 3.5l cars, there are two 2 15mm bolts that go through the timing belt cover. Attach chain to both of these. Make sure and attach to heavy bolts that go deep into the block. Don't attach to any bolt with a head smaller than 13mm. You will snap the bolt off and possible hurt yourself severely. You may have to purchase a longer bolt to allow for the chain thickness.
How much was this?
What shop installed the new subframe? I stripped the shit out of the nut that holds the sway bar bushing bracket so I’ll prob need a new frame JUST for a small ass welded on nut. Lol.
You don’t put a gun on the bolt side of control arms on these. That will damage the control arms. Take the nut off and wiggle the bolt out.
I like how he never shows How they're holding the engine up
Dudes gotta keep his fingers out of the power outlet.
are you sure you didn't get paid a lot of money to say the name of that other shop (Sollermo dwayne?) a million times? otherwise, it's a lot of free advertising! good or bad still advertising.
The Lighting cost you a thumbs up.
U showed everything except how to support the engine lo
That clown video taping everything talks too much
@Hack Er He's still a clown
JAI M then why watch it?
i should have hit that bump 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
So ,, lets just say that everything is not ideal and clean and free of rust like yours .. Say ,, like my fucking rusted dodge piece of shit front suspension bullshit lemon of a piece of shit .. ? :p . . I have one of the bolts that hold the cradle to the frame at the rear with a broken head .. It appears that the rest of the bolt is being held in place still with a cone of sort jammed against the flange against the frame .. Will I be able to get that bolt out ? The mechanic at the shop seems to think the car is scrap .. it is a 2010 .. You ever heard of that bolt being broken before or why it would break ? I`m talking the bolt he is hitting with his gun @ 14:49 .. Cheers ~ !
Didn't know Colin Kaepernick had a Charger.
Oh look it's Dane cook....
Where can I get bushings?