Nice job of the skin. That's how I did my last one, with the double cords, best seam I've ever done. I used the hemostats (forceps) to pinch the seam instead of the spring clamp, much more precise and they laid out of the way nicely.
Love it!!! Love it!!! I've got Petrel Play SG plans on the way but really really want to do a skin on frame. Keep up the great work looking forward to the skin on frame plans to come out. Stay safe every one....
The fabric is not locked to the frame. It is free to slide and distribute itself evenly. I didn't have any problem despite taking no care to prevent any issues.
Can this method be used on lighter 6-8oz polyester cloth with good result? Thank you for illustrating how to deal with the bow/stern when using the welting cord . Always wondered how to finish the stitch . Do you think this would work on a qajaq like Yost Sea Rider with a long taper to the stems? Thanks
I plan on using something like 8-oz in the future. This was just using whatever I had available in my shop.. I've used the same bow stitching treatment on my Greenland style boats. It should work fine on the Sea Rider.
I am certain there must be a source. The original intent of the fabric was for use in industrial filters. It is very likely there is a source, the trick is finding a source will to sell you a small enough amount to make a kayak.
Heat-shrink polyester fabric is widely used on amateur-built experimental aircraft. Different fabric weights and quantities are typically available through aircraft parts supply houses.
That is true. The aircraft material tends to be substantially lighter weight (thinner), running in the 1 to 2 ounce/sq yd range, where the material I'm using here is 14 ounce/sq yd
Nice job of the skin. That's how I did my last one, with the double cords, best seam I've ever done. I used the hemostats (forceps) to pinch the seam instead of the spring clamp, much more precise and they laid out of the way nicely.
nice kayak! love your work.
Love it!!! Love it!!! I've got Petrel Play SG plans on the way but really really want to do a skin on frame. Keep up the great work looking forward to the skin on frame plans to come out. Stay safe every one....
How do you shrink it evenly on both sides to ensure it doesn't cause twisting of the frame?
The fabric is not locked to the frame. It is free to slide and distribute itself evenly. I didn't have any problem despite taking no care to prevent any issues.
Can this method be used on lighter 6-8oz polyester cloth with good result? Thank you for illustrating how to deal with the bow/stern when using the welting cord . Always wondered how to finish the stitch . Do you think this would work on a qajaq like Yost Sea Rider with a long taper to the stems? Thanks
I plan on using something like 8-oz in the future. This was just using whatever I had available in my shop..
I've used the same bow stitching treatment on my Greenland style boats. It should work fine on the Sea Rider.
I recommend you try Tiger Thread, which is a wax polyester braided thread used in leather work. It comes in many sizes and is super strong.
Since the skin gets a finish applied, I do not want a waxed line as it would prevent the finish from adhering.
as in the old days. :-)
DO you know of a fendor that sells this type of skin in europe?
I am certain there must be a source. The original intent of the fabric was for use in industrial filters. It is very likely there is a source, the trick is finding a source will to sell you a small enough amount to make a kayak.
Heat-shrink polyester fabric is widely used on amateur-built experimental aircraft. Different fabric weights and quantities are typically available through aircraft parts supply houses.
That is true. The aircraft material tends to be substantially lighter weight (thinner), running in the 1 to 2 ounce/sq yd range, where the material I'm using here is 14 ounce/sq yd