@@Mofiac ok, first of all thanks for your reply and I have a few more questions, is there any special plastic or do you use the usual 3d filaments? is the process the same as this metal fender? do you sand the 3d printed part and do you use any putty and which one before applying gelcoat and later polyester?
Use regular 3d filament. Depending on how fine the detail of the printed part is, you can sand it if it's rough or leave it alone if it's smooth. If you need to fill areas, you can use any automotive putty. Wax the part with mold wax and/or spray it with PVA release agent. Then you can do what I did to make your mold. You'll need to wax the mold with several layers of mold wax before you make a part from it. For the first pull, use PVA release on the mold after you've waxed it. That will 'set' the wax into the mold. Each time you need to make a part from the mold, wax one coat on the mold then make your part. If you notice the parts come out easy, then you can start to skip the wax application until it gets difficult to demold.
Hi, nice informative video. What resin do you recommend. I am unable to achieve that dry finish on the inside of the laminated part and it sounds like a partially cured part when i knock it with a metal rod on it. Maybe mixing ratios are wrong or i am not using correct materials. And for a fender like this, can i use 2 x 350gsm csm with a plain weave cloth. or can i add woven roving for strength? Not planning to ride with a pillion. Please help. Thank you
I always recommend using an isophthalic resin (iso-resin). Catalyse between 1 and 2% with MEKP catalyst and use at close to room temp. Yes, you can reinforce with woven roving wherever needed. If the inside of the part remains tacky but the part is solid and stiff you can add wax air dry to a little resin and flood coat it. Hope that helps.
Use epoxy laminating resin, this is the best option, it is least toxic, it has longer pot life, it is not jelling, it is stronger than another resins. To make the inner layer dry put paper towel on the inside face, roll on it with molding roller and then peal off the paper towel with excess of the resin.
If you're polishing gelcoat after demolish and you're noticing pinholes it could be due to your catalyst. I'd need to know the materials you're using, the application procedures(is it sprayed on or brushed on), the catalyst ratio, etc. If you're using crafted wheels to polish, you may be overheating the part. I'd need to know more to help you out. POMF
@@Mofiac thank you so much for replying me🥰. In my fiberglass making. Pin holes ah visible in my finished product ( after molded polished and body filler applied) how to rectify that sir 1 . I first fiber cast ( blue 🔵 colour catalyst i use) 2. Removed and body filler applied. 3.grinded usin 220 grid pape. And polished using 400 grid
If you're getting pitting after polishing it's most likely from outgassing during the cure. You are either applying gelcoat too thick; wrong catalyst ratio for that gelcoat(too much catalyst), or using the wrong catalyst for that gelcoat. Check the gelcoat manufacturer's website for recommendations regarding application thickness, catalyst ratio and catalyst type. If done properly, you shouldn't get any pinholes at all. Final note, when polishing, check how hot the part gets in the buffed area. It should only be warm, never hot.
Hey man! Nice video! I was wondering how can I restore/remake missing side on my lotus Elise. The left front side smashed-missing. I bought this wreck to restore. I am familiar with frp repairs but never done such big job before.
Nice car to work on! You can use spray foam as a base for the section that you need to redo. Step 1)Tape/mask the underlying area so you can remove the foam easily after the work is done. Then foam fill the complete area using 2 part urethane foam. Step 2) sand down the area to 1/4" lower than where you want it. Step 3) trowel on bondo over the entire area and sand/shape it to your liking with 40 grit. Step 4) spray a high build polyester primer Step 5) sand down using 220 grit then wetsand 400 grit then 600grit. Step 6) spray PVA mold release and build up a mold of the area like I did in the video Step 7) make your part in the mold like I did in the video Step 8) remove all the bondo, foam and tape from the car and install your new fiberglass part Step 9) sand the part to 320 grit then paint using automotive paint. Hope that helps.
I shake the gelcoat container for 30 seconds and that usually thins it enough. If you purchase spraying gelcoat no thinning is needed, just mixing. Don't overmix or you'll break down the thixotropic nature and it will sag. If it's old gelcoat or you're using a spraygun with a smaller needle and aircap then you can thin it with hi-gloss additive from Hawkeye Industries. If you use acetone to thin you weaken the finished product. It will still cure and give reasonable results as long as you don't thin with more than 10%. Styrene is a recommended thinner but it's nasty stuff so I don't use it and it tends to make it sag easily. Hope that helps!
Thank you, I DO Have a Question : Your largest project, in terms of surface area and in terms of # layers of, type of and weight of the cloth(s) ... How much epoxy resin, in terms of gallons, was necessary? Please detail that for me: 1. Square footage of surface area 2. How many layers were used in one layup (was it glass, Kevlar and/or carbon, was it a combination), 3. the (estimated?) weights per sqf of each layer and most importantly of all: 4. How many gallons were necessary for the layup or better; for the entire project?
I don't use epoxy resin, it's polyester resin. The largest project I've done was 78,000 square ft. This fender project used about 1/2 litre of resin. You can count the layers in both the mold and the part if you watch the whole video.
No, its polyester gelcoat. If you want to paint the part after, any paint will do. If the part is going to be outside alot, use an automotive or marine paint. Hope that helps!
The grey paint is called a high-build primer. Any type will do such as acrylic-urethane from PPG or Imron, but the one I used was a polyester high-build primer from Evercoat. Hope that helps.
@@Mofiac Sir, I'm in a bit of trouble here. I bought a set of molds to make side scoops for a project car I have. I'm just curious as to what measurements I would need for my gel coat, epoxy resin, and hardener. I bought mold release wax, and a mold release spray but seeing other people's methods on making parts from molds makes it confusing for me to know where to begin. I spent over 480 dollars gathering all material's and I just don't want to have incorrect ratios with the products I have bought. I would greatly appreciate your words of advice as it has been months that I have set my fiberglassing project aside.
@@Mofiac What I meant was percentages for my resin and hardener. I heard if I put too much, it won't cure properly. That's what's been discouraging me to just go all in already.
What type of resin and hardener do you have. Sounds like it might be epoxy...if it is, the manufacturer's website will have the proper ratios by weight and/or by volume. Not all epoxies are mixed at the same ratios.
Can i ask why you purposely made a texture finish to mold? I thought the fender ideally should be as smooth as possible to have less work for the usable part.
Yes, I can. I did so for 2 reasons. 1) small minor scratches and scuffs don't show on textured products.(class A finishes that are black are notorious for showing scratch marks). 2) By spraying on a texture, I didn't have to wetsand and buff the part to a high gloss. Saved me a bunch of time. Hope that helps!
Damm that guy has got to be the quickest hand sander I've ever seen@! AMAZING
Supersander! Where rough things abound, the Supersander surely can be found!
you missed the most important part, you didn't show the finished product!
hello friend, can i use 3d printed model to make mold like you in your video?
Yes you can, I do it all the time.
@@Mofiac ok, first of all thanks for your reply and I have a few more questions, is there any special plastic or do you use the usual 3d filaments? is the process the same as this metal fender? do you sand the 3d printed part and do you use any putty and which one before applying gelcoat and later polyester?
Use regular 3d filament. Depending on how fine the detail of the printed part is, you can sand it if it's rough or leave it alone if it's smooth. If you need to fill areas, you can use any automotive putty. Wax the part with mold wax and/or spray it with PVA release agent. Then you can do what I did to make your mold. You'll need to wax the mold with several layers of mold wax before you make a part from it. For the first pull, use PVA release on the mold after you've waxed it. That will 'set' the wax into the mold. Each time you need to make a part from the mold, wax one coat on the mold then make your part. If you notice the parts come out easy, then you can start to skip the wax application until it gets difficult to demold.
Hi, nice informative video. What resin do you recommend. I am unable to achieve that dry finish on the inside of the laminated part and it sounds like a partially cured part when i knock it with a metal rod on it. Maybe mixing ratios are wrong or i am not using correct materials. And for a fender like this, can i use 2 x 350gsm csm with a plain weave cloth. or can i add woven roving for strength? Not planning to ride with a pillion. Please help. Thank you
I always recommend using an isophthalic resin (iso-resin). Catalyse between 1 and 2% with MEKP catalyst and use at close to room temp. Yes, you can reinforce with woven roving wherever needed. If the inside of the part remains tacky but the part is solid and stiff you can add wax air dry to a little resin and flood coat it.
Hope that helps.
@@Mofiac great. Thank you so much. Is it standard wax that we use for release or does it have a different name?
Use epoxy laminating resin, this is the best option, it is least toxic, it has longer pot life, it is not jelling, it is stronger than another resins. To make the inner layer dry put paper towel on the inside face, roll on it with molding roller and then peal off the paper towel with excess of the resin.
How to get polished surface finish bro. Even after polishing .pin pores visible
Which grade polishing wheels used
Plz 🙏 reply
If you're polishing gelcoat after demolish and you're noticing pinholes it could be due to your catalyst. I'd need to know the materials you're using, the application procedures(is it sprayed on or brushed on), the catalyst ratio, etc. If you're using crafted wheels to polish, you may be overheating the part. I'd need to know more to help you out. POMF
@@Mofiac thank you so much for replying me🥰. In my fiberglass making. Pin holes ah visible in my finished product ( after molded polished and body filler applied) how to rectify that sir
1 . I first fiber cast ( blue 🔵 colour catalyst i use)
2. Removed and body filler applied.
3.grinded usin 220 grid pape. And polished using 400 grid
Any health issuse accurs??
If you're getting pitting after polishing it's most likely from outgassing during the cure. You are either applying gelcoat too thick; wrong catalyst ratio for that gelcoat(too much catalyst), or using the wrong catalyst for that gelcoat. Check the gelcoat manufacturer's website for recommendations regarding application thickness, catalyst ratio and catalyst type. If done properly, you shouldn't get any pinholes at all. Final note, when polishing, check how hot the part gets in the buffed area. It should only be warm, never hot.
None, if you always use the recommended PPE.
thank you
Hey man! Nice video! I was wondering how can I restore/remake missing side on my lotus Elise. The left front side smashed-missing. I bought this wreck to restore. I am familiar with frp repairs but never done such big job before.
Nice car to work on! You can use spray foam as a base for the section that you need to redo. Step 1)Tape/mask the underlying area so you can remove the foam easily after the work is done. Then foam fill the complete area using 2 part urethane foam. Step 2) sand down the area to 1/4" lower than where you want it. Step 3) trowel on bondo over the entire area and sand/shape it to your liking with 40 grit. Step 4) spray a high build polyester primer Step 5) sand down using 220 grit then wetsand 400 grit then 600grit. Step 6) spray PVA mold release and build up a mold of the area like I did in the video Step 7) make your part in the mold like I did in the video Step 8) remove all the bondo, foam and tape from the car and install your new fiberglass part Step 9) sand the part to 320 grit then paint using automotive paint. Hope that helps.
i know Im kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Bobby Emory flixportal :D
@Cody Nico Thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !!
@Bobby Emory no problem :D
Is gelcoat necessary or is release wax sufficient?
The release wax is all you need first if you want to skip the gelcoat and go straight to layup of fiberglass and resin.
@@Mofiac Thanks! Does it require a specific tyoe of primer and paint if I want to paint the finished product?
No, any automotive grade will do.
@@Mofiac Thanks! Appreciate it.
Good video 👍✨
Thanks 😊
I have a left side fender but can’t picture the steps to make a mold and reverse it to create a right side fender?
It isn't possible, unfortunately. You'll have to shape one then make a mold from it to make your part.
what Spray Gun did you use / nozzle size? for gelcoat
Star HVLP with a 1.8mm needle and aircap. If you can find a 2.2mm it's easier to work with.
@@Mofiacdid you have to thin the gelcoat down at all or could you spray it as is? If you did thin it, how much and did you you acetone or styrene?
I shake the gelcoat container for 30 seconds and that usually thins it enough. If you purchase spraying gelcoat no thinning is needed, just mixing. Don't overmix or you'll break down the thixotropic nature and it will sag. If it's old gelcoat or you're using a spraygun with a smaller needle and aircap then you can thin it with hi-gloss additive from Hawkeye Industries. If you use acetone to thin you weaken the finished product. It will still cure and give reasonable results as long as you don't thin with more than 10%. Styrene is a recommended thinner but it's nasty stuff so I don't use it and it tends to make it sag easily. Hope that helps!
Thank you, I DO Have a Question : Your largest project, in terms of surface area and in terms of # layers of, type of and weight of the cloth(s) ... How much epoxy resin, in terms of gallons, was necessary?
Please detail that for me: 1. Square footage of surface area 2. How many layers were used in one layup (was it glass, Kevlar and/or carbon, was it a combination), 3. the (estimated?) weights per sqf of each layer and most importantly of all: 4. How many gallons were necessary for the layup or better; for the entire project?
I don't use epoxy resin, it's polyester resin. The largest project I've done was 78,000 square ft. This fender project used about 1/2 litre of resin. You can count the layers in both the mold and the part if you watch the whole video.
Hey mate, what type of paint did you use? Acrylic?
No, its polyester gelcoat. If you want to paint the part after, any paint will do. If the part is going to be outside alot, use an automotive or marine paint. Hope that helps!
@@Mofiac I ment the paint you layed down on the steel fender you used as the mold?
The grey paint is called a high-build primer. Any type will do such as acrylic-urethane from PPG or Imron, but the one I used was a polyester high-build primer from Evercoat. Hope that helps.
Did you add epoxy resin and hardener to your gel coat?
No, the gelcoat is polyester-based. The resin used is also polyester-based.
@@Mofiac Sir, I'm in a bit of trouble here. I bought a set of molds to make side scoops for a project car I have. I'm just curious as to what measurements I would need for my gel coat, epoxy resin, and hardener. I bought mold release wax, and a mold release spray but seeing other people's methods on making parts from molds makes it confusing for me to know where to begin. I spent over 480 dollars gathering all material's and I just don't want to have incorrect ratios with the products I have bought. I would greatly appreciate your words of advice as it has been months that I have set my fiberglassing project aside.
What measurements are you looking for?
@@Mofiac What I meant was percentages for my resin and hardener. I heard if I put too much, it won't cure properly. That's what's been discouraging me to just go all in already.
What type of resin and hardener do you have. Sounds like it might be epoxy...if it is, the manufacturer's website will have the proper ratios by weight and/or by volume. Not all epoxies are mixed at the same ratios.
Can i ask why you purposely made a texture finish to mold? I thought the fender ideally should be as smooth as possible to have less work for the usable part.
Yes, I can. I did so for 2 reasons. 1) small minor scratches and scuffs don't show on textured products.(class A finishes that are black are notorious for showing scratch marks). 2) By spraying on a texture, I didn't have to wetsand and buff the part to a high gloss. Saved me a bunch of time.
Hope that helps!
Good video, would of been better to actually see the results of product
Agreed, I cut the ending of the video a little early.