Rustproofing and chassis repair pt.2 - rust treatment.
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2022
- In this video I give my approach to rustproofing using a Discovery 1 as an example. In theis second part I address the treatment of active rust, particularly that in enclosed spaces. Very few UA-cam publishers have addressed this common problem.
I make reference to the work of Geoffrey Croker on rust removal which may be found at
• Rust Removal Methods E...
This video shows my approach to rustproofing and isn't intended as advice for viewers. - Авто та транспорт
Interesting video as ever, the other option is to keep drinking the cider until you no longer care about the rust 😀
Inside the chassis cavities is a big challenge, many of us find out 12 months later that our chosen method and product do not live up to expectations. The overlapping seam on top and bottom of chassis sides are partially double skinned and trap moisture as do other areas therefore when hosing it out you want to make sure you remove any remaining moisture very quickly before it causes further corrosion. Many folk use ACF-50 for this which also protects the bare steel and is thin enough to creep into the numerous double skinned areas preventing further corrosion. My favourite cavity treatments are Dinitrol 3125 inside chassis and 4941 outside or Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 inside and Dynax UB /UC outside on exposed chassis and underbody are, you pays your money but application is every bit as important.
Sorry for the late reply, I missed your comment before.
For me a major consideration is how inflammable is the rust treatment since I know future welding will be required. I have seen a fire inside a chassis member caused by welding a member treated with Waxoyl. Several knowledgeable commentators praise the anti-corrosive properties of ATF so I have tried this. Let's see how it goes.
I reckon the Cider IS the way to go - by the time you finish the whole bottle, you'll not give a damn about the rust. Aye, there are so many anti-rust products/rust converters out there it's a minefield and could end up bloody expensive if, this didn't work...so, we'll buy that. That wasn't up to much, so we'll try this other product. Next thing you know, you have a garage shelf full of rust products and an almost empty wallet.
Then we have the nightmnare of what to do afterwards, after it's all been treated. Do we powdercoat stuff (means stripping parts and removing chassis, possible, but my gawd, how much time n money is expected to be shelled oput. Then we got Shutz, which can be sprayed and brushed everywhere,....last a fair while, but under normal road conditions - off road it'll wear off quicker.
Duck oil used to be my ''go-to' product, but that's only suitable for light use, and for already decent metal. Heck, I even kept all my waste engine oil and clarted that on the unersides. A bit strange getting an MOT, and the guy looks underneath and sees black engine oil front to back. That's a hell-of-an-oil-leak ye have there son!
I look forward to seeing your final chosen treatment, and will be good to get an update how it's held up when the salt starts going back on the roads again in a few months....
All the best. Take care, and crack on with that Cider!
Great video as ever, cheers and enjoy that cider, perfect for this warm weather!
Thank you - very useful as are your other videos.
It is good to see how you have tried to treat the internal corrosion most chassis rust out from the inside
For some reason the so-called experts tend to gloss over this. The usual advice is just to inject Waxoil. On its own this will have a very limited effect.
Once again excellent information !!! Thanks
Do you have the same rust problems in your country?
@@defendermodsandtravels no, but we buy the cars from europe and some of them comes with a lot of rust, which needs to be fixed to sell the car - thank you.
@@dinkaman2160pukka Where are you based?
@@defendermodsandtravels horn of africa
@@dinkaman2160pukka OK not much rust there except when you import it, as you mentioned before.
Same conclusions as myself. I've been using Phosphoric Acid for years and it is cheap and effective. I can see why it's not marketed as a DIY product though! I still have doubts over some of the so called converters though. Some of them are like painting PVA onto the metal. I've not personally tested their effectiveness over time though and I always use the tried and tested Phosphoric. Great video has usual.
Tannic acid is the other noted reagent and a rust converter based on this should perform well.
Do you inject phosphoric acid into enclosed spaces and if so what has been your experience with it?
@@defendermodsandtravels yes I do using a similar sprayer as yourself. I don't tend to rinse though, which leaves white crystals on the surface, but they don't seem to be detrimental to the effectiveness of the result. I would like to understand the chemistry though as rinsing may yield a better result. The challenge as usual is to get full and even coverage. One day I will get a small camera into my chassis and see how it's doing. Hope it won't be too shocking, but currently I use no cavity wax, just the acid treatment.
@@oldbritishmetal Wait and see what final freatment I am going to use. It might surprise you.
@@defendermodsandtravels my guess is boiled linseed oil...?
@@oldbritishmetal Nope, and nor lanolin. Be patient.
In Norway where the roads are salted the Audi is the most rust prone.
I thought Audis were well made Ade. It seems I'm wrong there.
@@defendermodsandtravels Audi and Passat rust quickly in Norway.
Toyota are not so bad.
Nothing rusts where I am.
The only good way is to dissasembly frame and body and sand blast everything and then paint frame and underbody with some polyurethane paint. Regards
Correct but there are limits to how far you can go with an old vehicle with low resale value. I am lucky that the top flanges of the chassis rails appear to be fine so I don't need to lift the body off.