I use a pressure washer attatchment usually used for unclogging drain pipes to flush frames It is very good because it pulls itself straight through :)
Mike, You can get a flexible hose that goes on your pressure washer for drain cleaning. Its sprays in multiple directions similar to the waxing hose. I used one for my 110 chassis and was amazed how much crap it blasted out. It is just a pressure resistant nylon hose, about 3/8 OD, with a flush-fitting brass multi jet head in one end and a fitting on the other for your pressure washer lance. I'm sure you could make such a thing with ease?
Hi Mike, My 110 is due for a rustproof respray this summer. I normally save any ATF and bung that in, firstly I knock old silicone cartridge tips into the bottom of the chassis to stop any leaks. At the back I use the wiring loom holes to really pour the fluid in. After a few weeks I take the bungs out and let it drain overnight. It is nice to see how it should be done, very environmental indeed not a bit like me (rough arse). The only time that I go off road now is when I visit Tesco's car park so chassis should be clean inside, but now would be a good time to use the endoscope that I bought and never used to take a look inside. Thanks for the video Mike, I am looking forward to part two. Stay safe. Yorkshire Rob.
Actually, mud in the chassis is not a problem, as long as it's completely dry and doesn't contain salt. To treat the mud, just spray the interior of the chassis with heavily diluted cavity wax, so the mud soaks up the waxy liquid and then becomes effectively inert. I would be more worried about spraying cavity wax while the inside of the chassis is still wet. The ultimate interior coating is 1/3rd fish oil, 1/3rd cavity wax and 1/3rd spraying thinners. Sprayed into interior surfaces, this mixture follows the same path as water, gets into the crevices and along the finest seams. You can top it up a week later with just cavity wax, but either way, this mixture leaves a solid but flexible coating that lasts for years.
Rear shock mountings , gearbox Xmember and axle bomber stops , might be worth giving some special attention , where they sandwich to the frame , maybe loosing a bit and perhaps spray some crown? also the alu/frame connections like seat belt mounts and rear of tub on station-wagon. Does the stuff really smell of vanilla? What is the differences on a frame and a chassis ? I use frame because I can not spell chassis.
Woo woo every body stop you only need to drill two holes at the rear of the vehicle inline of the two chassis rails.. and buy yourself a 30 dollar drain cleaning attachment (gerni) for a pressure washer.. it will make all the way to the front of a 110.. probably 130 as well... I also use a drain camera afterwards, before rust proofing.. it worked well
Hi Mike. I've done this twice in 7 years on my 110. I don't know if LR made some changes to the chassis but mine has quite a few nice drain holes at the bottom and sides of the chassis. Quite different from my 1984 110.
Not a good idea to have drilled 3/4 holes so near the edge of the chassis beams-great place for a crack to propagate from. better to have drilled the neutral axis (middle) prob why LR have their ones higher up.
I use a pressure washer attatchment usually used for unclogging drain pipes to flush frames
It is very good because it pulls itself straight through :)
Looking into the future Mike?
Bloody marvellous! Rust prevention would have saved do many ! Had no bloody internet for a week or so. Will be catching up today.
It had a good rustproofing as I do not think it will ever get done again!
February ???
Mike, You can get a flexible hose that goes on your pressure washer for
drain cleaning. Its sprays in multiple directions similar to the waxing
hose. I used one for my 110 chassis and was amazed how much crap it
blasted out. It is just a pressure resistant nylon hose, about 3/8 OD,
with a flush-fitting brass multi jet head in one end and a fitting on the other for
your pressure washer lance. I'm sure you could make such a thing with
ease?
yeah, i was going to suggest that. Thing like a snake.
Next video will show the crap that came out
I've one of those hoses at work for drains , never thought about using it for a chassis , thanks for the idea
Words I thought I would never hear, "Not enough holes in a Land Rover chassis"..... My life is complete now.
Did you bung the holes AFTER rustproofing?
Using a lift has massive advantages to rolling around on the driveway outside, even on a 29c English day!
No, let the chassis breathe
Hi Mike, My 110 is due for a rustproof respray this summer. I normally save any ATF and bung that in, firstly I knock old silicone cartridge tips into the bottom of the chassis to stop any leaks. At the back I use the wiring loom holes to really pour the fluid in. After a few weeks I take the bungs out and let it drain overnight. It is nice to see how it should be done, very environmental indeed not a bit like me (rough arse). The only time that I go off road now is when I visit Tesco's car park so chassis should be clean inside, but now would be a good time to use the endoscope that I bought and never used to take a look inside. Thanks for the video Mike, I am looking forward to part two. Stay safe. Yorkshire Rob.
It would have been nice to use the Krown but it only comes in spray cans
Actually, mud in the chassis is not a problem, as long as it's completely dry and doesn't contain salt. To treat the mud, just spray the interior of the chassis with heavily diluted cavity wax, so the mud soaks up the waxy liquid and then becomes effectively inert. I would be more worried about spraying cavity wax while the inside of the chassis is still wet. The ultimate interior coating is 1/3rd fish oil, 1/3rd cavity wax and 1/3rd spraying thinners. Sprayed into interior surfaces, this mixture follows the same path as water, gets into the crevices and along the finest seams. You can top it up a week later with just cavity wax, but either way, this mixture leaves a solid but flexible coating that lasts for years.
i keep thinking about getting a jetwash drain cleaning attachment for my jetywash so you can just thread it from front to back and get right inside
You should
Rear shock mountings , gearbox Xmember and axle bomber stops , might be worth giving some special attention , where they sandwich to the frame , maybe loosing a bit and perhaps spray some crown? also the alu/frame connections like seat belt mounts and rear of tub on station-wagon. Does the stuff really smell of vanilla? What is the differences on a frame and a chassis ? I use frame because I can not spell chassis.
Woo woo every body stop you only need to drill two holes at the rear of the vehicle inline of the two chassis rails.. and buy yourself a 30 dollar drain cleaning attachment (gerni) for a pressure washer.. it will make all the way to the front of a 110.. probably 130 as well... I also use a drain camera afterwards, before rust proofing.. it worked well
good stuff is ovatrol and Mike sander waxoil just for Info
Lol father Ted and lance, was it neighbours or home and away? Handles water music sprung to mind!:)
I think Lance was the Fast show or Harry and Paul
@@BritannicaRestorations lol
Good old 'Mr J', will certainly keep 'Wet Feet' At Bay. Make it a 'Large one Lad'.😃👍
That's the plan!
how long did you leave it to dry?
A week
Hi Mike. I've done this twice in 7 years on my 110. I don't know if LR made some changes to the chassis but mine has quite a few nice drain holes at the bottom and sides of the chassis. Quite different from my 1984 110.
Thanks for the info
What year is your 110?
@@Rob-cz7lg It's a 2006 300Tdi
@@jacqueshickley ROW spec then!
@@Rob-cz7lg Yes.
Hi Mike 🤔 just saying hi 😁👍 playing catch up 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Welcome back Dennis! -25c this morning
@@BritannicaRestorations hope your enjoying your Yorkshire cup of tea 🍵🍵 dinner time for us pie and mussy peas👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
W110 chassis are rust proofed at the factory!
That's Mercedes Benz w110's of course though.
I think that will take days and days to dry out, even if you play a blow torch on it. If you could pump hot air through it overnight, that might help.
Dry as a bone!
Mad Mike's Land Rover Colonic Irrigation Clinic
👍👍
Wensleydale time now Grommit. Hmmm Jamieson too.
Indeed!
You need to reset your calendar to January.
This is the future!
@@BritannicaRestorations Touche'
Jess stop it be rusted by morning 😱😱😳
Defender spring water
February???? Where's your landy time machine 😃
28th of Feb is a Sunday this year, Mike....
Every day is like Sunday -= Morrissey
Not a good idea to have drilled 3/4 holes so near the edge of the chassis beams-great place for a crack to propagate from. better to have drilled the neutral axis (middle) prob why LR have their ones higher up.
a drain in the floor is a good idea - but I am sure CA precludes that for environmental purposes - how is Trudeau doing ? LOL