You can sit here and label this mans work what ever you like 'ocd' 'over the top' but at the end of the day. This is pure PRIDE. This man takes pride in what he does and that is something that is very rare these days in any form of construction industry. Hats off to you mate bloody good job.
I heartily agree. What a pleasure to see work done with such care and thoughtfulness. I look forward to the time (which I think will be in the near future) when quality routinely matters and is not sacrificed to make a profit.
This is old school, back when subs/people took pride in their work and the job, when finished, spoke for itself…homeowners knew that the job was being done right and for longevity…..BUT TODAY, you have to pray they show up on time AND they want a draw before they put in a full day’s work! KEEP POSTING YOUR WORK! KEEP SHOWING THEM HOW IT’S DONE! Love your attention to detail. You remind me of an appraiser I knew years ago. He appraised homes strictly for Veterans (VA Loans only). He would tell me, “Nobody is gonna take advantage of a Veteran. I comb through houses like a fine teeth comb…every system, because they paid the ultimate price for us. They don’t need to worry about their home.” You work with the same work ethic. Passionate about the work and don’t mind sharing .
@@sarahann530, When those Veterans signed up, they agreed to put up everything they had to protect the citizens of the U.S. up to and including with their lives. Just because some make it back home, they agreed to give it all if needed. That’s why we offer them the respect that they deserve.
@@Hoaxer51 So signing up for 4 years is welfare for life . Trump didn't need welfare because he was rich . That's why he stayed at home . No way was he going to be a sucker or loser .
Overkill in so many ways, but I really appreciate the calm detailed narrative along the way. It’s like having your dad explain each step. HOW gets the job done, but WHY empowers others.
I personally would rather have overkill if I was hiring someone. All the contractors I’ve hired over my years do the bare minimum. I would pay for the extra effort if I was told it would cost extra for max effort.
I wosh people would "overkill" like this, some of us need way more help and alot of what youd think is obvious is not so obvious to someone completely ignorant of all this.
Not just overkill, it's frivolous and wasteful. Sure, he has attention to detail, but I don't see that as a reason to praise him for this particular project.
It really is. Everything from the "packing" of the dirt outside the form, to digging it WAAAY below the 4 inches of the form, to the lime pack inside the form. At the most, it would warrant a form board on each side. Fill the bottom with some gravel up to the bottom of the forms. Expansion joint material at each end. Pour concrete directly on top of gravel. Smooth it out. If you want some reinforcement, either add glass fibers or some highway wire mesh. @tommytators9814 I know you'd rather HAVE overkill, but you would never want to PAY FOR overkill. Don't pay for things you don't need. Overkill in this case adds a ton of labor and a good bit extra on materials. Somebody has to pay for that labor and materials. OP's video is DIY so it's not too much extra for the overkill, just breaking his back for no reason. But hey, if you want overkill, and you don't mind wasting money, go for it.
@@corelockout6293 I will always pay for max effort in all forms vs less. The problem is most contractors determine what overkill is and always come up short. It’s not about the contractor, it’s about the customer willing to pay for it to be done right. I’ve hired the best in my town and surrounding in many projects from whole house builds, just framing, flooring, backsplash, hvac you name it… it’s always just enough to get the job done. It is NEVER above and beyond or in this case we call it “overkill”. Nobody takes pride in their work. I have done some of these things myself after seeing the quality from a past experience and can do it better but it takes 3-4 times as long. Why, because I’m not in that line of work and have to take it slow and cover my bases. A professional in whatever line of work I hire should be able to do a way better job than someone with no experience. Luckily for UA-cam I can still take on some of this stuff, but personally even at a measly 41 years old am burned out on home repairs and customizations when this is not my profession.
@@tylersmith9868 The proper name is reciprocating saw (sometimes shortened to recip saw). It's called a sawzall in some places in USA based on the brand that introduced it (in the same way that some people calling photocopying "xeroxing".
You are the Bob Ross of fence building! If everyone built fences this way, it would bring the fencing industry to it's knees due to a lack of the need to rebuild/repair them so often. I have no desire to do this, but I can admire the effort and time it took to build. Well done!
I did something like this 30 years ago. I had the advantage of having the metal forms available to me since I have relatives that are in the concrete business. What I did was dig down for the concrete pad before I did the post holes. I then marked and dug all of the post holes and removed all extra dirt and debris. I prepped the holes for the posts and set the posts and did not fill the holes with concrete until it was time to pour it all in one shot. I also made the concrete 18 inches wide to give plenty of room on both sides to help prevent any grass or weeds growing near the fence. I was going to go a full sidewalk width but that was not practical at the time. It was also to help prevent the dog from wanting to dig under the fence as well. I went back to the place I did this at and it is still all in place and the fence posts are still holding strong. The rest of the fence was replaced because one of the owners after me wanted a different fence look and vinyl wrapped the posts along with that new look.
Very nice! One little bit I would have done differently as where I live has quite a high rainfall is that the concrete had a slight slope to one side . By making one entire side 1/4" or 6mm or so higher, rain will run off rather than pool on the concrete.
This is actually much more complicated than what you expressed in the video. Concrete is constantantly drying after the initial mix and you are fighting the mixture, the volume of concrete mixed that has to be transferred from the mixer to the ground, compacting it and then smoothing it over. As you've stated at the end of the video, it comes down to experience and for most DIY homeowners, we just don't have the volume of work to gain that skillset to achieve anything close to professional results!!! You deserve much credit for showing this and sharing your experience and knowlege in this video!! The number of linear feet of conceret done was not easy and the results turned up great!! Well done👍👍👍
Wow! What a beautiful job! That's the way to build a fence, PERIOD. The extra time up front is a cheap investment to make for no weed trimming forever. I'm not lazy, but someday I'd like to be, and not having to trim weeds along the fence is a good way to stay on the couch. But seriously, I really like the way you did that. Very tasteful. I am glad I came across this video. Thank you for making it.
Yep, as stated by some, “a little over the top, maybe OCD etc”. Pick and choose from this man’s expert advice. Reminds me of an interview I once saw with Warren Buffet; he said while frugal with most things for value; ie used car, keep for years, same house, etc. But he said some items, like shoes, buy the best you can…they’ll last longer and be more comfortable “a better value”. This curb qualifies! Well done sir!
Excellent job and great video. The only thing I would change is, I would use the edger to get a rounded edge, then work the steel trowel again after the edger to make it look uniform on top. To me any sharp corner like that is asking to be chipped up.
Cement blocks under the fence will do the same job: I used 20 x 10 x 5 cm with very good result. I never let the end of the plank touch the cement; keep the plank ca. 1 cm up so that the earth bacteria doesn't get a chance to eat away on the planks.
I do the same. The concrete blocks also prevent weeds growing up right next to the fence boards, so you're not going to be hitting those boards with the string trimmer.
Very thorough and complete explanations included with the how-to. Just wonderful for any DIYer- it really helps to understand WHY you have to do certain procedures to make sure your work lasts. Thanks for this!
This is the kind of job that will last. It's those extra bits that make the difference. I really appreciate the things you taught us in this video. I learned a lot.
The definition of "a job worth doing is worth doing well". I'm inspired to do this on my new property, along with in-ground sprinklers, landscaping and additional concrete work.
It’s always interesting to hear what ocds unprofessionals obsess over while missing others. It’s easy to use a 2x4 (1.5x3.5) and get a 4” thick slab. When you install the aggregate, you just leave the top of the aggregate 1/2” below the bottom of 2x. The base should be placed before the form is backfilled so that the aggregate extends out from the edge of the pour. This is the path of travel for any vertical forces. It also saves worrying about dirt going inside. Adding 3bar and 8” wide wwf in a 4x10 slab is counterproductive. It needs 3” of cover between the steel and ground; 1” between the air. With the steel as installed, it is more likely to pop the concrete. It is also easy to get steel in the middle of a small slab without chairs. Just pour half the slab, set the steel, and add the rest of the mix on top while it’s all wet. Chairs are only necessary for big slabs. It’s not that difficult to use a roundover tool and float it smooth with the surface. The otherwise sharp edges are much more likely to chip in the future. Etc
Excellent demonstration of good design, quality prep work, job set-up and good old fashioned craftsmanship and all so well presented and explained. Reminds me of a gentleman I had the privedge to get trained by, in a metal shop years ago when I was a young man and a rookie in the shop. This gentleman showed me everything that was needed to know about working in the metal shop, running all the tools and equipment, and how to properly handle the materials to stay safe, be productive and not damage anything. There were things he showed me, simple little "secrets", adjustment, and tuning details or tricks to tending the machinary to keep it operating in the sweet spot where my produced work was always accurate and quality product and I never had to redo anything. I became the fastest most efficient worker they'e had on those machines in their memory. It was all thanks to the good gentleman who took the time to show me the right way to do things from the very start. It was nothing less than one might expect for proper thorough quality training, but would be somewhat of a rarity today.
That's great, you are right it is a rarity today, people just want it quick and easy not necessarily right or good. Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching.
I got a bunch of free stones and made this cobblestone deal about a foot tall. Then from there I did these square metal posts about 8ft tall each. I had 16 of those just laying around my stepfathers property. I picked them up and we welded channels on to them. From there we used some nice rough cut lumber to make this really cool looking fence Currently we have 1 inch gaps between the each horizontal slab of rough cut wood. We made a nice matching gate and it looks really rustic. An one of the funniest projects. The neighbors came back from vacation and were baffled. We have a KAREN next door and she was saying how we were on her property and what not. But we exclusively worked from our side. She said she was going to destroy it. We got a survey team out there and there is nothing she can do. We are perfectly on the line. Her husband who tends to the yard loves it. He is planning a new landscape around that. He also wanted to know where we got the stone so he can match us. His wife was not happy. But her nose is always up in the air. She isn't ever happy i don't think.
What you did and the way you did it is hard work. But it will save so much time and work over the years, it's worth every drop of sweat making it. Kudos!!!
Lots of ideas to build a fence... the problem is that most customers won't pay for something like this , considering the time and extra materials . As a homeowner you might have the time and patience to do it any way you want to. It looks good and is a pretty good idea..🤩🤩🤩
@@deanb949 yeah I dnt put my name of them kinds of work!. I deal with people who call me knowing what they want. Your right never understood that. I've seen cheap work come out very expensive the 2nd around about!!. Stay firm my guys!
This is pretty, but it isn't logical. The next tornado that comes to town will cause extra work, pulling broken poles, and now breaking concrete. If a guy tamps the dirt in hard and tight, he won't need any concrete for his poles. And don't space them over 8 feet. Use landscape timbers at the bottom or run a low rail for the weed eater, and lastly, DON'T use pine pickets. Always use cedar pickets. The pine will bend and warp within a year, and cedar will stay straight. These are words of wisdom from a Pro DYIer.
Great information video! Thank you for taking the time to create. Appreciate the tips on concrete. My father used the same concept of concrete beneath the fence - with a different approach: set the posts, higher edge and mowing strip in the one pour. He managed to not use steel or rebar, and has held up great for 30 years. The timber becomes the weakest link, with warping etc over time. Although different soil conditions to your situation. Thanks again for the great video.
did similar for the fence I installed last year. being 78 and lazy I hired a firm that does highway curbs. they came in and in a day installed the curbs with an apron on both sides so when I mow I no longer need to trim as the mower rides the apron. not all that expensive.
The metal embedded in the concrete is more likely to corrode and actually accelerate the cracking and chipping. There is no reason to reinforce concrete that will not be bearing any substantial loads...
@@eriksteffen6166 Depends on the climate. If you get a lot of rain it could be within a couple years. It you live in a dry climate like Arizona it may never happen. But the important point is that the purpose of using rebar to strengthen concrete is for concrete that will be subject to loads, i.e. a road, a bridge, a pillar, etc.
Amazing work and amazing job explaining all of the details, including what you did right and any mistakes you made. I may do something similar at my house, I haven’t worked with concrete yet, but am really looking forward to soon, and I hope to create something as nice as your work here.
Thank you. I like to explain what I am doing in detail but many don't like that because it makes the video longer. Try just making a square form and practice with the concrete first before doing your project. Will help take some of the anxiety out. Thanks for watching.
LOL, thank you. Just take it one step at a time until you are done. I get a little anxiety with big projects but it helps to just break it down into smaller parts. Thanks for watching.
I am so ridiculously impressed! I've been wanting to put a picket fence in for a while but I kept putting it off because I knew I had to do some kind of cement/curb to prevent it from rotting and the whole process seemed kind of daunting to me. This video answered so many of my questions and helped me so much!
That is wonderful. I am so glad this video helped you. Just go one step at a time and before you know it the project will be done. Don't think about the whole project just the next step. Hope your project goes well. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much! I love how you fixed the bow in your forms, a useful tip for building (period). Your explanations on trawling are buig help! Great job!!
I love all this! Watch and Learn!! My father was always building things with his hands and I'm so thankful for the knowledge he gave me. I've carried that knowledge all through my life. This man is awesome because he takes time for details. Anyone could watch and pick up tips or feel confident they can do what they need done after watching him! Save save save. Thank you sir!
This man is probably 10 years older than me but he is adorable and for some reason I am stuck between just wanting to run back and forth to the garage bringing him beer&tools and putting things away or maybe we’re in love. It’s a strange feeling I have right now 😅
This reminds me of doing projects with my dad. His attention to detail / striving for perfection used to drive me crazy. I'd always want to get the job done and move on to something more fun but nowadays I appreciate the "ocd" like tendencies and all that I learned back then. I learned a lot from this video as well. Thanks.
OCD = Good Work Ethic. I'm so tired of people saying what I do is overkill. I love your attention to detail and execution. The only thing I would change here is, like you said, to use smoother boards. It'll definitely help with the bubbles getting stuck and also using a treatment so that the cement doesn't stick to the wood.
Thank you, that is the nice thing about DIY you can over kill it all you want!. Glad you liked the video. I sanded the boards and waxed them with paste wax for the next set and worked much better. Thanks for watching.
Yes, you bring up the subject of the 4 x 4 posts twisting... I had some of that it was very slight but it did occur at the time I built the fence 35 years ago, but after 35 years there was more shifting probably more at the type of soil we have here in the desert there is a lot of movement, but overall things are reasonable given the time. In the extreme weather conditions we have here in the desert, I would like to see how you finished the fence using 2 by 4"s and your slats. I did do something to make my fence more rigid... And because of the way I put together I put an additional 2 x 4 on top of the support 2 x 4 on top of the post if that makes sense... At each post the additional 2 x 4 at the post provided additional rigidity... So essentially there is an additional 2 x 4 continuous at the top of my posts looks just fine and the fence is much much stronger, we often times get hellacious winds in addition to our normal high winds, this is where you find out your fence has problems that occur over time due to nature and wood drying out and riding over time. The wood I see in the background, is an example of what happens over time, something that is very hard to stop even with wood treatments
You are the man your work is awesome I’m in the middle of doing my fence and your video is beyond words thank you for ur time and video u helped me tremendously!!!
Trimmer Line is cheap, concrete work on this scale would be expensive. Pick and choose. For a wood privacy or picket fence I would go to this extent because it keeps the wood pickets away from the moist ground and the trimmer line.
Shrink /swell soil is what you were trying to say. I think this was a great job- I subbed! Got any vids on replacing a subfloor under a broken toilet flange? It’s about 2 x 2’ i have to replace before finishing the floor(ceramic tile). I will be making a concrete threshold for my barn doors, and using your procedure for making them!
Brother you know a ton of great tips thank you for the video and for your wisdom. I do concrete and masonry and I'm truely impressed. Have a great day brother and keep yo the great work and content 🤘😎🤘🇺🇸
WONDERFUL, that is what I want to see, people going out and doing these projects for themselves. Let me know how it goes. Glad you enjoyed the video and it inspired you to do your own. Thanks for watching.
I appreciate your attention to detail. I’m an architectural technologist and relate to the problems you’re looking to solve. I would suggest watching how rain events interact with your new fence curb. You may have inadvertently created a dam. A French drain on one side or maybe both would alleviate ponding. Cheers 🇨🇦
I've often considered doing this. I see people doing curbs for flower beds also. Question I have is what keeps them from heaving in colder climates? Not sure where you are - if it were me, where I live, I might consider pinning those curbs into the posts to keep them from shifting around. Nice details on the finishing.
Pinning it to the posts is not advisable. I design buildings for a living and a common detail is to install a bond break around piers prior to pouring a landscaped slab. Heaving is very strong and can take the posts with it. The only way to prevent heaving is to frost protect the slab. typically frost protection is achieved with either ground insulation or by pouring your footing 48" deep ( neither of which are realistic here ofc)
That said, maaaaybe with enough gravel below the slab you could mitigate the heaving enough to make it realistic to dowel into the piers. I wouldnt risk is personally
Frost heave is cause by water expanding as it freezes. Soil doesn't drain water quickly so pouring concrete directly on soil is always a bad idea. You want water to drain away quickly before it has a chance to freeze AND...you want to allow space for it to expand in case it does freeze. Your best bet is to excavate and fill the trench with at least 12" of 3/4 gravel. It's self compacting and offers the most drainage and room for freezing water to expand. Pour your concrete on top that and you mitigate the risk of frost heave when going below frost depth is not practical.
@@OU81TWO I was thinking the same, you need something that *isn't* susceptible to heave - maybe that's sandy soil with little clay, maybe that's crushed rock as you described. At this point though it becomes a little crazy, like you're pouring a freaking footer, just so you can not weed trim along the fence. My next idea is to use something like a Trex 2x6 under the fence line. Pinned down with tent-like stakes/nails.
Built to look great and stay that way for a very long time. I love seeing when people take pride in their work and think of everything that can go wrong over time. Great stuff
not sure how it will look though. might look weird. would look good if the concrete part were much higher, i've seen that before. but just a wee little bit might look weird.
You are awesome!!! Yes it’s overkill but coming from a first time diy fence rebuilder and fixer…. Ohhh, I wish I had known of you before my fence was originally built. I love your attention to detail and the wisdom of forethought. Thank you for sharing.❤️❤️
What I had planned to do under our fenceline was some landscape edging to define the edges with gravel pack topped with landscaping gravel. I'd rather avoid weeding the fenceline entirely if I can get away with it. If I ever get to actually do any off that work, I'll let you know how it turned out lol
okay great, another idea you can put 4x4 posts between the posts and use rebar to hold it in the ground. Can bury them 2-3.5 inches. Thanks for watching
Found your video while researching how to make a foundation for a block fence I'm planning on building. Great job! I have just enough concrete experience to attempt replacing and old wooden fence with block and then cover with stucco. After watching you wrestle those bags and mixer, I'm definitely going to buy a MudMixer. I helped a friend pour a sidewalk and it was awesome tool to have. You only lift bags waist high and the speed control allows you to go as fast or slow as you need. Thanks for sharing and I can't wait to see what's next.
Glad you found me. Yes I tried to see if the local rental store had a mudmixer for rent but they don't So I did it the old fashion way, by hand. Good luck on you project. Thanks for watching.
All I can see is if you had used continuous forms on both sides of your conc rete 10" apart with all of your rebar in place but running the full length and did a single pour maybe from a concrete truck there wouldn't have been the need for the expansion pieces ( but you could have still placed them in there) and there wouldn't have been the warping and twisting while looking down the entire line. You have showed me what I've always wanted to try to keep my pickets off the ground so very nice job. I'm replacing my fence next year so will keep this video in mind. Just an FYI. I moved into an older house with concrete and rebar edging about 6" wide by 4' long sections (total length was 30') that had sunk into my clay and I didn't know it was even there until I was gardening so if he had used rebar the total length of the pour it would have been more stable and may not have sunk into the clay.
Great video! I think a good trick to prevent weeds from growing and coming up from the ground is to spray the dirt at the bottom of the form with vinegar. Then add salt to that same dirt as well as to the limestone material you pour onto it afterwards. That will surely take care of the issue.
@OakleysDIYHomeRenovation101 Thorough process and execution; this was truly a pleasure to watch. The only suggestions I could possibly make for future concrete placement jobs would be: Oil your forms: a releasing agent applied to the inside of your forms will promote headache-free removal and easier re-use of the forms. Greased dowel connection to adjacent pours: If you are concerned about the movement of the linear pours relative to the post-base footers, this method would help. Thank you for your contribution.
@@PW98372 They make dedicated release agent by the gallon. You should be able to pick some up at your local concrete supply or possibly big box store. Cooking oil works in a pinch. I've also read that diesal oil, wd-40, and finishing wax are good candidates. Alternatively you can just put a sheet of plastic over the wood. Might get some folds but the release would be a breeze.
23:56 I love how after he floated the first one ( and saw that it wasn't turning out the way he was hoping and decided to not do it on the remaining two) - how he kept that in the video instead of editing that part out. Acknowledging that sometimes things don't always go as planned and having to make minor adjustments is just part of life . I imagine that pouring concrete one day can differ from pouring concrete the next day, cuz the humidity in the weather can make it where you have more/ less time to get each step done (or where you have to wait on pouring concrete all together if it's a rainy day) 29:20 I also love how you too the time to not only acknowledged that you had mistakes but that you took the time to address each "mistake" you made and WHY and HOW each of those "mistakes" affected your finally product results. I am really impressed with not only his end product result, but also with his workmanship/ attention to detail, and overall work- ethic.
Very good job overall, excellent idea, The only thing i would have done different is to round the edges with a "bullnose float" so the sharp edges are less likely to chip and the water will more easily run off the top.Thanks.
This is an excellent video. One of the best i've ever seen. I like how you explain and give reasons why for even small steps that are often not explained because they are thought to be common knowledge. And how you showed the mistakes and described why they happened. I'm going to watch your video on setting the fence posts next. My back fence posts rotted at the bottom, and they built a house behind mine and dug away at the base leaving a gap. This might work well when i rebuild. Definitely better when it comes to mowing and weeding, and will keep baseballs from rolling into the neighbor's yard.
In general I like the idea. You could have just poured your curb like a footer then used concrete post bracket plates to attach the posts to the curb. That would have been a simpler process for the concrete work at least. looks like your posts are down in the concrete, maybe that was a previous video. But if you have a post issue at this point, going to be a pain to resolve.
I'm doing the same thing with my fence that Ian destroyed in 2022! But I'll use 6X6 instead of 4 X 4! I have to make sure no hurricane will never destroy it again. Thanks for making this video!
Great, hope your project came out well. I am now using vegetable oil on my forms and seems to be working well. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video. I may not do it the exact way you did it but there is a lot that I learned from it. This type of concrete curbing is something that I thought of doing on my wooden fence because I have dogs that tend to dig, and I think it would solve this issue as well as help with the rotting from standing water from the rain. Thanks again for your version of this process of installing a concrete curb on a wood fence. I tend to think like you do with the ocd thing and/or the attention to detail too much. I tell myself to stop it, or it tends to make things a little overkill., so I understand that.
LOL. Glad you liked it. That is the nice thing about DIY you can let your OCD go wild. I wanted concrete this time but I have used PT 4x4 between fence posts and use rebar to stake them into the ground so my dogs wouldn't dig also. Thanks for watching.
What he did was obviously better, but what I have done to help prevent dogs digging under the fence was use pavers. I have done the concrete forms when I needed a like knee-wall under the fence and used stone to cover it.
Why? It's not bearing any load and that's why concrete is reinforced. Having metal rods and wire inside the pour will not stop the natural expansion and contraction of the concrete due to changes in temperature and humidity...and in fact will likely contribute to an early failure.
I do like this idea and I did this when building my new fence but super simple way: after I set my posts, I just dug out a couple (3-4”) of dirt between my posts, got 2, 1x4’s and covered one side (the inside that goes towards the concrete) with 3” blue 3M tape (so the concrete doesn’t stick to my boards), put them down in the gap between the posts with a 10-11” spacing.. just let the top of the board be flush with the ground level .. filled some of the dirt back into the gap so I have about a 2” depth left to fill with the concrete.. stepped on the dirt to compact it down.. added 2 or 3 small (1x2) spacer boards across the top to hold the boards to that 10-11” spacing .. and filled up with mixed concrete. I did put some plastic on top to allow the concrete to cure slowly - took that off after a couple days. Then removed the form. It’s been over one year and they’re still holding up just fine.
Bro, you're doing pretty good. Just a little suggestion. Concrete expansion filler needs to be installed only every 20 feet or so. Also I wish you would drill 30 degree angle with half inch rotohammer drill bit in those post bases ,and insert by baby sledge 14-16 inch #4 rebars, sharpened slightly by grinder disc. Then bend them one of each side in to those curbs. Then the whole system would be connected without "cold joint".
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and make this video. This is one of the most detailed and prepared instructional videos I have found. If you were for hire, you would be even busier than I am sure you already are. Thanks again.
Thank you very much. It is a fine line between being very informative and being too long of a video. I am glad you liked the video and thank you so much for watching.
Uh oh, new favorite channel found today! Thank you for making this video and explaining why you do each step, for what reason for a new peraon who has no idea. Very helpful, easy to learn! 🎉❤🙏
I've considered doing that... but I'm opting for Trex decking laid flat instead as I'm dealing with PVC picket and three different chain link fences on adjoining neighbors' properties and my dog run. For future projects perhaps you may want to consider some of the following observations. While the process progressed I kept waiting for the application of concrete form release oil... 😉 The edging tool is a good idea as the rounded edges would be a lot less prone to chipping over time. The texture in the concrete surface left by the edger is considered a workman like finish... and if you edge between doing the magnesium troweling and the steel troweling you can still get a nice finished surface without fighting with the edge too much--a gentle application of the edger can tidy it up. Also, they make a narrow edger for sidewalks--it looked like the edger you showed was for slabs (or example, check Amazon for Bon 12-436 Edger). The narrow edger would leave more flat surface exposed.
Fantastic job. You can probably build a brick wall on top of it when you get bored of having a fence. If you're going through the hassle of doing it, better to do it well. Nothing OCD about it. Thanks for the instructions!
What a fantastic example... Thank you for the video, and you keen awareness and attention to detail. Knowing how to do something vs. how to do something right, is very different, isn't it?
THE HELL IT DOES!!! Bad wood rots in concrete as fast as it does without it! My former roomie spent 28 HOURS last week (and he ran a "skeeter" and a horizontal boring machine to instal fiber optics and electrical services to houses for 5+ years!) with a mini-track hoe ripping out nearly 600 feet of wooden fence my cheap-ass uncle installed 38 years ago, less than three months before I bought my Grandparent's house from their Estate! Carl had to also break-up and dig-up the concrete "curbing", and I'm having GIGABUCKS worth of new cyclone fencing installed, with the support poles in new concrete "curbing" (7500 PSI Ready-Mix with re-mesh) and "pots" 16" deep for the posts (tree roots). And you gotta run the weed-eater along the curbing each time you mow! Five hundred and 60-odd feet takes me and my BIG two-stroke weed-eater about 20 hours to edge-out I use a wire wheel brush (12 or 14") to trim neater.
I made a similar concrete curb on the lower.edge.of a chain link . It keeps the dogs from going under it and it stiffened up the fence . Also it keeps small trees and weeds.from.growing along the fence . Despite many benefits, because it is a shared fence, my neighbor did not like the way I concreted "his" fence so be sure to let your neighbor know .
You can sit here and label this mans work what ever you like 'ocd' 'over the top' but at the end of the day. This is pure PRIDE. This man takes pride in what he does and that is something that is very rare these days in any form of construction industry. Hats off to you mate bloody good job.
I heartily agree. What a pleasure to see work done with such care and thoughtfulness.
I look forward to the time (which I think will be in the near future) when quality routinely matters and is not sacrificed to make a profit.
Certainly agree with you.
Side note: he ripped it all out the next day because his OCD wouldn't allow him to accept the small flaws😂😂
Australians are apparently easily impressed
You PIMP dat fence!😊😅🎉❤
This is old school, back when subs/people took pride in their work and the job, when finished, spoke for itself…homeowners knew that the job was being done right and for longevity…..BUT TODAY, you have to pray they show up on time AND they want a draw before they put in a full day’s work! KEEP POSTING YOUR WORK! KEEP SHOWING THEM HOW IT’S DONE! Love your attention to detail. You remind me of an appraiser I knew years ago. He appraised homes strictly for Veterans (VA Loans only). He would tell me, “Nobody is gonna take advantage of a Veteran. I comb through houses like a fine teeth comb…every system, because they paid the ultimate price for us. They don’t need to worry about their home.” You work with the same work ethic. Passionate about the work and don’t mind sharing .
Why thank you very much SoniaBDorsey. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
If Veterans were obtaining VA loans, they didn't pay the ultimate price
@@sarahann530 That's not what it's meant, idiot.
@@sarahann530, When those Veterans signed up, they agreed to put up everything they had to protect the citizens of the U.S. up to and including with their lives. Just because some make it back home, they agreed to give it all if needed. That’s why we offer them the respect that they deserve.
@@Hoaxer51 So signing up for 4 years is welfare for life . Trump didn't need welfare because he was rich . That's why he stayed at home .
No way was he going to be a sucker or loser .
Exactly the granular detail I want to see in a DIY video, and the cuts are quick and to the point. Can't get any better than this!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
This man pays more attention to detail than most. It is the little details that make the result so nice.
Overkill in so many ways, but I really appreciate the calm detailed narrative along the way. It’s like having your dad explain each step. HOW gets the job done, but WHY empowers others.
I personally would rather have overkill if I was hiring someone. All the contractors I’ve hired over my years do the bare minimum. I would pay for the extra effort if I was told it would cost extra for max effort.
I wosh people would "overkill" like this, some of us need way more help and alot of what youd think is obvious is not so obvious to someone completely ignorant of all this.
Not just overkill, it's frivolous and wasteful. Sure, he has attention to detail, but I don't see that as a reason to praise him for this particular project.
It really is. Everything from the "packing" of the dirt outside the form, to digging it WAAAY below the 4 inches of the form, to the lime pack inside the form.
At the most, it would warrant a form board on each side. Fill the bottom with some gravel up to the bottom of the forms. Expansion joint material at each end. Pour concrete directly on top of gravel. Smooth it out. If you want some reinforcement, either add glass fibers or some highway wire mesh.
@tommytators9814 I know you'd rather HAVE overkill, but you would never want to PAY FOR overkill. Don't pay for things you don't need. Overkill in this case adds a ton of labor and a good bit extra on materials. Somebody has to pay for that labor and materials. OP's video is DIY so it's not too much extra for the overkill, just breaking his back for no reason. But hey, if you want overkill, and you don't mind wasting money, go for it.
@@corelockout6293 I will always pay for max effort in all forms vs less.
The problem is most contractors determine what overkill is and always come up short. It’s not about the contractor, it’s about the customer willing to pay for it to be done right. I’ve hired the best in my town and surrounding in many projects from whole house builds, just framing, flooring, backsplash, hvac you name it… it’s always just enough to get the job done. It is NEVER above and beyond or in this case we call it “overkill”.
Nobody takes pride in their work. I have done some of these things myself after seeing the quality from a past experience and can do it better but it takes 3-4 times as long. Why, because I’m not in that line of work and have to take it slow and cover my bases. A professional in whatever line of work I hire should be able to do a way better job than someone with no experience. Luckily for UA-cam I can still take on some of this stuff, but personally even at a measly 41 years old am burned out on home repairs and customizations when this is not my profession.
once i saw him use the sawzaw to vibrate the wet cement, i instantly subscribed! You can tell this guy has some good tricks up his sleeve
They make a dildo attachment also 😂
It's called a sawzall. Idk where tf people got the idea they are called sawzaws
@@tylersmith9868 The proper name is reciprocating saw (sometimes shortened to recip saw). It's called a sawzall in some places in USA based on the brand that introduced it (in the same way that some people calling photocopying "xeroxing".
havnt watched full video but thats a hell of a tip to find in the comments.
You are the Bob Ross of fence building!
If everyone built fences this way, it would bring the fencing industry to it's knees due to a lack of the need to rebuild/repair them so often. I have no desire to do this, but I can admire the effort and time it took to build. Well done!
Thank you, and thank you for watching
I did something like this 30 years ago. I had the advantage of having the metal forms available to me since I have relatives that are in the concrete business.
What I did was dig down for the concrete pad before I did the post holes. I then marked and dug all of the post holes and removed all extra dirt and debris. I prepped the holes for the posts and set the posts and did not fill the holes with concrete until it was time to pour it all in one shot. I also made the concrete 18 inches wide to give plenty of room on both sides to help prevent any grass or weeds growing near the fence. I was going to go a full sidewalk width but that was not practical at the time. It was also to help prevent the dog from wanting to dig under the fence as well.
I went back to the place I did this at and it is still all in place and the fence posts are still holding strong. The rest of the fence was replaced because one of the owners after me wanted a different fence look and vinyl wrapped the posts along with that new look.
If everyone built the way you do we'd have some seriously robust homes out here haha - thanks for the video!
lol that is the nice thing about DIY you and DIY how ever you want. Thanks for watching.
Sir, you are the definition of pride in workmanship, and an example for anyone that picks up a tool.
Thank you. Thank you for watching.
Very nice! One little bit I would have done differently as where I live has quite a high rainfall is that the concrete had a slight slope to one side . By making one entire side 1/4" or 6mm or so higher, rain will run off rather than pool on the concrete.
This is quality at it's finest. Doing it right the first time!
thank you and it looks nice also. Thanks for watching
Covid, layoffs and inflation has masses of us on "sit your ass down somewhere"...It seems to have brought the *youtube dollars ambition* out of many!
You are a complete nut job and an inspiration!! The world would be a lot better of a place if people had this much integrity.
Yeah, I’m wondering if you would pay when you see the invoice total for this integrity.
This is actually much more complicated than what you expressed in the video. Concrete is constantantly drying after the initial mix and you are fighting the mixture, the volume of concrete mixed that has to be transferred from the mixer to the ground, compacting it and then smoothing it over. As you've stated at the end of the video, it comes down to experience and for most DIY homeowners, we just don't have the volume of work to gain that skillset to achieve anything close to professional results!!!
You deserve much credit for showing this and sharing your experience and knowlege in this video!! The number of linear feet of conceret done was not easy and the results turned up great!! Well done👍👍👍
Wow! What a beautiful job! That's the way to build a fence, PERIOD. The extra time up front is a cheap investment to make for no weed trimming forever. I'm not lazy, but someday I'd like to be, and not having to trim weeds along the fence is a good way to stay on the couch. But seriously, I really like the way you did that. Very tasteful. I am glad I came across this video. Thank you for making it.
Thank you, glad you liked it and thank you for watching.
Yep, as stated by some, “a little over the top, maybe OCD etc”. Pick and choose from this man’s expert advice. Reminds me of an interview I once saw with Warren Buffet; he said while frugal with most things for value; ie used car, keep for years, same house, etc. But he said some items, like shoes, buy the best you can…they’ll last longer and be more comfortable “a better value”. This curb qualifies! Well done sir!
Excellent job and great video. The only thing I would change is, I would use the edger to get a rounded edge, then work the steel trowel again after the edger to make it look uniform on top. To me any sharp corner like that is asking to be chipped up.
Man, I love your attention to detail and how you explain it at every step of the process. Can't wait to apply this info to my own projects
That footing will outlive all of us. Great job Oakley
Thank you, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Cement blocks under the fence will do the same job: I used 20 x 10 x 5 cm with very good result. I never let the end of the plank touch the cement; keep the plank ca. 1 cm up so that the earth bacteria doesn't get a chance to eat away on the planks.
I do the same. The concrete blocks also prevent weeds growing up right next to the fence boards, so you're not going to be hitting those boards with the string trimmer.
You did good; looks Awesome, stop complaining about yourself; you did a great job
Thank you, when you are a little OCD perfection never seems to be achieved, LOL. Thanks for watching.
Very thorough and complete explanations included with the how-to. Just wonderful for any DIYer- it really helps to understand WHY you have to do certain procedures to make sure your work lasts. Thanks for this!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you and there are other fence videos in the outdoor project playlist if you want to see more. Thanks for watching.
This is the kind of job that will last. It's those extra bits that make the difference. I really appreciate the things you taught us in this video. I learned a lot.
Thank you, glad you liked it and it you was able to learn something. Thanks for watching
The definition of "a job worth doing is worth doing well". I'm inspired to do this on my new property, along with in-ground sprinklers, landscaping and additional concrete work.
Glad you liked it and it inspired you to get out and DIY your own projects. Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU FOR THE PRIDE YOU HAVE IN YOUR WORK! YOUR AN INSPIRATION TO ALL OF US D.I.Y. ENTHUSIASTS!🙂
Wow, thank you so much. Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
I appreciate the time and effort you put into the video. Some good information on finishing techniques and forming. Well done.
thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
It’s always interesting to hear what ocds unprofessionals obsess over while missing others.
It’s easy to use a 2x4 (1.5x3.5) and get a 4” thick slab. When you install the aggregate, you just leave the top of the aggregate 1/2” below the bottom of 2x. The base should be placed before the form is backfilled so that the aggregate extends out from the edge of the pour. This is the path of travel for any vertical forces. It also saves worrying about dirt going inside.
Adding 3bar and 8” wide wwf in a 4x10 slab is counterproductive. It needs 3” of cover between the steel and ground; 1” between the air. With the steel as installed, it is more likely to pop the concrete.
It is also easy to get steel in the middle of a small slab without chairs. Just pour half the slab, set the steel, and add the rest of the mix on top while it’s all wet. Chairs are only necessary for big slabs.
It’s not that difficult to use a roundover tool and float it smooth with the surface. The otherwise sharp edges are much more likely to chip in the future.
Etc
Old is right...
You forgot to mention the ridiculous amount of overworking the finish with the steel trowel.
@@tomszabo7350 That was OCD - "Over Concrete Detailing"
Excellent demonstration of good design, quality prep work, job set-up and good old fashioned craftsmanship and all so well presented and explained. Reminds me of a gentleman I had the privedge to get trained by, in a metal shop years ago when I was a young man and a rookie in the shop. This gentleman showed me everything that was needed to know about working in the metal shop, running all the tools and equipment, and how to properly handle the materials to stay safe, be productive and not damage anything. There were things he showed me, simple little "secrets", adjustment, and tuning details or tricks to tending the machinary to keep it operating in the sweet spot where my produced work was always accurate and quality product and I never had to redo anything. I became the fastest most efficient worker they'e had on those machines in their memory. It was all thanks to the good gentleman who took the time to show me the right way to do things from the very start. It was nothing less than one might expect for proper thorough quality training, but would be somewhat of a rarity today.
That's great, you are right it is a rarity today, people just want it quick and easy not necessarily right or good. Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching.
I got a bunch of free stones and made this cobblestone deal about a foot tall. Then from there I did these square metal posts about 8ft tall each. I had 16 of those just laying around my stepfathers property. I picked them up and we welded channels on to them. From there we used some nice rough cut lumber to make this really cool looking fence Currently we have 1 inch gaps between the each horizontal slab of rough cut wood. We made a nice matching gate and it looks really rustic. An one of the funniest projects. The neighbors came back from vacation and were baffled. We have a KAREN next door and she was saying how we were on her property and what not. But we exclusively worked from our side. She said she was going to destroy it. We got a survey team out there and there is nothing she can do. We are perfectly on the line. Her husband who tends to the yard loves it. He is planning a new landscape around that. He also wanted to know where we got the stone so he can match us. His wife was not happy. But her nose is always up in the air. She isn't ever happy i don't think.
What you did and the way you did it is hard work. But it will save so much time and work over the years, it's worth every drop of sweat making it. Kudos!!!
Lots of ideas to build a fence... the problem is that most customers won't pay for something like this , considering the time and extra materials . As a homeowner you might have the time and patience to do it any way you want to. It looks good and is a pretty good idea..🤩🤩🤩
True but when doing it yourself that is the great thing you can do it how you want. Thanks for watching
Yeah people want good work done cheap
@@moejoe5935
That's the ones that get junk work.
@@deanb949 yeah I dnt put my name of them kinds of work!. I deal with people who call me knowing what they want. Your right never understood that. I've seen cheap work come out very expensive the 2nd around about!!. Stay firm my guys!
This is pretty, but it isn't logical. The next tornado that comes to town will cause extra work, pulling broken poles, and now breaking concrete. If a guy tamps the dirt in hard and tight, he won't need any concrete for his poles. And don't space them over 8 feet. Use landscape timbers at the bottom or run a low rail for the weed eater, and lastly, DON'T use pine pickets. Always use cedar pickets. The pine will bend and warp within a year, and cedar will stay straight. These are words of wisdom from a Pro DYIer.
Great information video! Thank you for taking the time to create. Appreciate the tips on concrete. My father used the same concept of concrete beneath the fence - with a different approach: set the posts, higher edge and mowing strip in the one pour. He managed to not use steel or rebar, and has held up great for 30 years. The timber becomes the weakest link, with warping etc over time. Although different soil conditions to your situation. Thanks again for the great video.
did similar for the fence I installed last year. being 78 and lazy I hired a firm that does highway curbs. they came in and in a day installed the curbs with an apron on both sides so when I mow I no longer need to trim as the mower rides the apron. not all that expensive.
Your patience and eye for detail are commendable! Looks great
thank you and thanks for watching.
Nice job, the curb is worth more than the fence. With your wire reinforcements, it'll survive any storm better than the fence, too.
thank you and your probably right. Thanks for watching
The metal embedded in the concrete is more likely to corrode and actually accelerate the cracking and chipping. There is no reason to reinforce concrete that will not be bearing any substantial loads...
@@alphaforce6998 how quick does the corrosion affect the concrete?
@@eriksteffen6166 Depends on the climate. If you get a lot of rain it could be within a couple years. It you live in a dry climate like Arizona it may never happen. But the important point is that the purpose of using rebar to strengthen concrete is for concrete that will be subject to loads, i.e. a road, a bridge, a pillar, etc.
You should have rounded the sides to prevent brittle edges. You could have used a fiber in your mix to limit chipping and increasing tensile strength.
CURB TROWEL
@@mdoy5667 Like he shows at 25:20?
Amazing work and amazing job explaining all of the details, including what you did right and any mistakes you made. I may do something similar at my house, I haven’t worked with concrete yet, but am really looking forward to soon, and I hope to create something as nice as your work here.
Thank you. I like to explain what I am doing in detail but many don't like that because it makes the video longer. Try just making a square form and practice with the concrete first before doing your project. Will help take some of the anxiety out. Thanks for watching.
I have the utmost respect for the level of detail you put in. Personally I can't imagine doing it myself, the thought gives me anxiety.
LOL, thank you. Just take it one step at a time until you are done. I get a little anxiety with big projects but it helps to just break it down into smaller parts. Thanks for watching.
I am so ridiculously impressed! I've been wanting to put a picket fence in for a while but I kept putting it off because I knew I had to do some kind of cement/curb to prevent it from rotting and the whole process seemed kind of daunting to me. This video answered so many of my questions and helped me so much!
That is wonderful. I am so glad this video helped you. Just go one step at a time and before you know it the project will be done. Don't think about the whole project just the next step. Hope your project goes well. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much! I love how you fixed the bow in your forms, a useful tip for building (period). Your explanations on trawling are buig help!
Great job!!
Wow. I am lacking. The patience and dedication is commendable. Like you don't have anything else to do.
Great job! Really enjoyed watching and listening. Love to see people who want to do things with excellence! God bless you my friend!
thank you very much. My OCD has a lot to do with it LOL. Thanks for watching.
I love all this! Watch and Learn!! My father was always building things with his hands and I'm so thankful for the knowledge he gave me. I've carried that knowledge all through my life. This man is awesome because he takes time for details. Anyone could watch and pick up tips or feel confident they can do what they need done after watching him! Save save save. Thank you sir!
Thank you so much. Glad you liked it. Like your father I enjoy building things with my hands. Thank you for watching.
This man is probably 10 years older than me but he is adorable and for some reason I am stuck between just wanting to run back and forth to the garage bringing him beer&tools and putting things away or maybe we’re in love. It’s a strange feeling I have right now 😅
LOL Thank you and that would be great to have someone help but at the same time I am so picky that my wife stays away. Thanks for watching
When a man does extra for his job, he also does extra for his wife!
This reminds me of doing projects with my dad. His attention to detail / striving for perfection used to drive me crazy. I'd always want to get the job done and move on to something more fun but nowadays I appreciate the "ocd" like tendencies and all that I learned back then. I learned a lot from this video as well. Thanks.
Glad to hear you learned something from your dad and this video. Thanks for watching.
OCD = Good Work Ethic. I'm so tired of people saying what I do is overkill. I love your attention to detail and execution.
The only thing I would change here is, like you said, to use smoother boards. It'll definitely help with the bubbles getting stuck and also using a treatment so that the cement doesn't stick to the wood.
Thank you, that is the nice thing about DIY you can over kill it all you want!. Glad you liked the video. I sanded the boards and waxed them with paste wax for the next set and worked much better. Thanks for watching.
Yes, you bring up the subject of the 4 x 4 posts twisting... I had some of that it was very slight but it did occur at the time I built the fence 35 years ago, but after 35 years there was more shifting probably more at the type of soil we have here in the desert there is a lot of movement, but overall things are reasonable given the time. In the extreme weather conditions we have here in the desert, I would like to see how you finished the fence using 2 by 4"s and your slats. I did do something to make my fence more rigid... And because of the way I put together I put an additional 2 x 4 on top of the support 2 x 4 on top of the post if that makes sense... At each post the additional 2 x 4 at the post provided additional rigidity... So essentially there is an additional 2 x 4 continuous at the top of my posts looks just fine and the fence is much much stronger, we often times get hellacious winds in addition to our normal high winds, this is where you find out your fence has problems that occur over time due to nature and wood drying out and riding over time. The wood I see in the background, is an example of what happens over time, something that is very hard to stop even with wood treatments
I'm not sure if you mentioned it or not, but I would also put a slant on the top so water runs off.
You are the man your work is awesome I’m in the middle of doing my fence and your video is beyond words thank you for ur time and video u helped me tremendously!!!
Wow, thank you. Glad the video helped. Hope you fence project goes well. Thanks for watching.
The same idea occurred to me many years ago. The first house I lived in had a chainlink fence. Trimming the grass along it was a pain.
Trimmer Line is cheap, concrete work on this scale would be expensive. Pick and choose.
For a wood privacy or picket fence I would go to this extent because it keeps the wood pickets away from the moist ground and the trimmer line.
Shrink /swell soil is what you were trying to say. I think this was a great job- I subbed! Got any vids on replacing a subfloor under a broken toilet flange? It’s about 2 x 2’ i have to replace before finishing the floor(ceramic tile). I will be making a concrete threshold for my barn doors, and using your procedure for making them!
No I sure don't, sorry. Thank you for watching.
Brother you know a ton of great tips thank you for the video and for your wisdom. I do concrete and masonry and I'm truely impressed. Have a great day brother and keep yo the great work and content 🤘😎🤘🇺🇸
Thank you so much, glad you like the videos and tips and thank you very much for watching.
I think your fence looks beautiful. I'm going to borrow your whole concept & do my own. Thank you.
WONDERFUL, that is what I want to see, people going out and doing these projects for themselves. Let me know how it goes. Glad you enjoyed the video and it inspired you to do your own. Thanks for watching.
Excellent workmanship! I would have been apprehensive pulling form away so soon.
I appreciate your attention to detail. I’m an architectural technologist and relate to the problems you’re looking to solve. I would suggest watching how rain events interact with your new fence curb. You may have inadvertently created a dam. A French drain on one side or maybe both would alleviate ponding. Cheers 🇨🇦
I've often considered doing this. I see people doing curbs for flower beds also. Question I have is what keeps them from heaving in colder climates? Not sure where you are - if it were me, where I live, I might consider pinning those curbs into the posts to keep them from shifting around. Nice details on the finishing.
Pinning it to the posts is not advisable. I design buildings for a living and a common detail is to install a bond break around piers prior to pouring a landscaped slab. Heaving is very strong and can take the posts with it. The only way to prevent heaving is to frost protect the slab. typically frost protection is achieved with either ground insulation or by pouring your footing 48" deep ( neither of which are realistic here ofc)
That said, maaaaybe with enough gravel below the slab you could mitigate the heaving enough to make it realistic to dowel into the piers. I wouldnt risk is personally
Frost heave is cause by water expanding as it freezes. Soil doesn't drain water quickly so pouring concrete directly on soil is always a bad idea. You want water to drain away quickly before it has a chance to freeze AND...you want to allow space for it to expand in case it does freeze. Your best bet is to excavate and fill the trench with at least 12" of 3/4 gravel. It's self compacting and offers the most drainage and room for freezing water to expand. Pour your concrete on top that and you mitigate the risk of frost heave when going below frost depth is not practical.
@@OU81TWO I was thinking the same, you need something that *isn't* susceptible to heave - maybe that's sandy soil with little clay, maybe that's crushed rock as you described. At this point though it becomes a little crazy, like you're pouring a freaking footer, just so you can not weed trim along the fence. My next idea is to use something like a Trex 2x6 under the fence line. Pinned down with tent-like stakes/nails.
@@slip0n0fall Yes it's nuts to do that for a fence if all you want is an edge to fill the bottom gap. A piece of plastic is cheaper for sure.
Built to look great and stay that way for a very long time. I love seeing when people take pride in their work and think of everything that can go wrong over time. Great stuff
thank you, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
If a meteor hits this town, the only thing that will be left standing is this fence. Truly incredible effort! How long did this take to do?
not sure how it will look though. might look weird. would look good if the concrete part were much higher, i've seen that before. but just a wee little bit might look weird.
You are awesome!!! Yes it’s overkill but coming from a first time diy fence rebuilder and fixer…. Ohhh, I wish I had known of you before my fence was originally built. I love your attention to detail and the wisdom of forethought. Thank you for sharing.❤️❤️
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed it. If nothing else you know for next time. Thanks for watching
This licensed concrete contractor says, your rebar in the dirt will rust, expand, and crack your concrete. Other than that, primo job!
I thought the same. If I was going that far. I would have used gravel, sand, plastic for a base and then rebar and mesh.
Spalling
Quality craftsmanship. Pride in your work. Smart man.
Thank you and glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
What I had planned to do under our fenceline was some landscape edging to define the edges with gravel pack topped with landscaping gravel.
I'd rather avoid weeding the fenceline entirely if I can get away with it. If I ever get to actually do any off that work, I'll let you know how it turned out lol
okay great, another idea you can put 4x4 posts between the posts and use rebar to hold it in the ground. Can bury them 2-3.5 inches. Thanks for watching
You do realize you’re still weedeating the fence line right.
@@JustTryingToInnerstandYou I absolutely am, b/c I've done no work. When done, I won't be, no.
Found your video while researching how to make a foundation for a block fence I'm planning on building. Great job! I have just enough concrete experience to attempt replacing and old wooden fence with block and then cover with stucco. After watching you wrestle those bags and mixer, I'm definitely going to buy a MudMixer. I helped a friend pour a sidewalk and it was awesome tool to have. You only lift bags waist high and the speed control allows you to go as fast or slow as you need. Thanks for sharing and I can't wait to see what's next.
Glad you found me. Yes I tried to see if the local rental store had a mudmixer for rent but they don't So I did it the old fashion way, by hand. Good luck on you project. Thanks for watching.
My dad would have called that a chain wall slab back in the day in New Orleans!
All I can see is if you had used continuous forms on both sides of your conc rete 10" apart with all of your rebar in place but running the full length and did a single pour maybe from a concrete truck there wouldn't have been the need for the expansion pieces ( but you could have still placed them in there) and there wouldn't have been the warping and twisting while looking down the entire line. You have showed me what I've always wanted to try to keep my pickets off the ground so very nice job. I'm replacing my fence next year so will keep this video in mind. Just an FYI. I moved into an older house with concrete and rebar edging about 6" wide by 4' long sections (total length was 30') that had sunk into my clay and I didn't know it was even there until I was gardening so if he had used rebar the total length of the pour it would have been more stable and may not have sunk into the clay.
Great video!
I think a good trick to prevent weeds from growing and coming up from the ground is to spray the dirt at the bottom of the form with vinegar. Then add salt to that same dirt as well as to the limestone material you pour onto it afterwards.
That will surely take care of the issue.
Oh yeah it'll take care of it for about a month or two🙄
@OakleysDIYHomeRenovation101
Thorough process and execution; this was truly a pleasure to watch. The only suggestions I could possibly make for future concrete placement jobs would be:
Oil your forms: a releasing agent applied to the inside of your forms will promote headache-free removal and easier re-use of the forms.
Greased dowel connection to adjacent pours: If you are concerned about the movement of the linear pours relative to the post-base footers, this method would help.
Thank you for your contribution.
Newb to DIY here...what kind of oil are you supposed to use?
@@PW98372 They make dedicated release agent by the gallon. You should be able to pick some up at your local concrete supply or possibly big box store. Cooking oil works in a pinch. I've also read that diesal oil, wd-40, and finishing wax are good candidates. Alternatively you can just put a sheet of plastic over the wood. Might get some folds but the release would be a breeze.
This is one of the best diy videos I've ever seen.
Well if that is true Wow, thank you. Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
23:16 🤣🤣🤣 " I'm gonna do this side first cuz if it screws up , it's on my neighbors side and i won't see it" lol i wasn't expecting that
23:56 I love how after he floated the first one ( and saw that it wasn't turning out the way he was hoping and decided to not do it on the remaining two) - how he kept that in the video instead of editing that part out. Acknowledging that sometimes things don't always go as planned and having to make minor adjustments is just part of life .
I imagine that pouring concrete one day can differ from pouring concrete the next day, cuz the humidity in the weather can make it where you have more/ less time to get each step done (or where you have to wait on pouring concrete all together if it's a rainy day)
29:20 I also love how you too the time to not only acknowledged that you had mistakes but that you took the time to address each "mistake" you made and WHY and HOW each of those "mistakes" affected your finally product results.
I am really impressed with not only his end product result, but also with his workmanship/ attention to detail, and overall work- ethic.
Thank you very much. Yes I do try to point out what doesn't go right and how it might be fixed the next time. Thank you for watching.
Very good job overall, excellent idea, The only thing i would have done different is to round the edges with a "bullnose float" so the sharp edges are less likely to chip and the water will more easily run off the top.Thanks.
Oh of course you'd be stupid and ROUND it.
Glad to know Im not the only weirdo in the world who thought about laying concrete under my fence. Great video, thanks for sharing.
LOL, nope you are not. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
Is any one else wishing this was your husband?😊
This is an excellent video. One of the best i've ever seen. I like how you explain and give reasons why for even small steps that are often not explained because they are thought to be common knowledge. And how you showed the mistakes and described why they happened. I'm going to watch your video on setting the fence posts next. My back fence posts rotted at the bottom, and they built a house behind mine and dug away at the base leaving a gap. This might work well when i rebuild. Definitely better when it comes to mowing and weeding, and will keep baseballs from rolling into the neighbor's yard.
Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for watching.
In general I like the idea. You could have just poured your curb like a footer then used concrete post bracket plates to attach the posts to the curb. That would have been a simpler process for the concrete work at least. looks like your posts are down in the concrete, maybe that was a previous video. But if you have a post issue at this point, going to be a pain to resolve.
Yes I did a separate video about the posts and they are 3ft in the ground in concrete with a 10in square pour around them. Thanks for watching
how sturdy are posts in brackets compared to posts 3 feet in the ground?
We buy these pre made in the UK, we call them gravel boards
That is a lot of work for a fence…but damn it looks great..:) nice job
Yes it was, but it was worth it once I finished it. Thanks for watching
I'm doing the same thing with my fence that Ian destroyed in 2022! But I'll use 6X6 instead of 4 X 4! I have to make sure no hurricane will never destroy it again. Thanks for making this video!
glad you liked it, hope your project goes well. Thanks for watching.
This is phenomenally extra 😂😂😂
I’ll just go ahead and replace my pickets every 10-15 years. Much quicker, easier, and probably cheaper.
I did my first concrete job and I sprayed my forms with WD40. It seemed to remove really well. Great video and great work dude ❤
Great, hope your project came out well. I am now using vegetable oil on my forms and seems to be working well. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Rebar is supposed to be 2 inches from the form if not the rust will bleed thru
Thank you for the video. I may not do it the exact way you did it but there is a lot that I learned from it. This type of concrete curbing is something that I thought of doing on my wooden fence because I have dogs that tend to dig, and I think it would solve this issue as well as help with the rotting from standing water from the rain. Thanks again for your version of this process of installing a concrete curb on a wood fence. I tend to think like you do with the ocd thing and/or the attention to detail too much. I tell myself to stop it, or it tends to make things a little overkill., so I understand that.
LOL. Glad you liked it. That is the nice thing about DIY you can let your OCD go wild. I wanted concrete this time but I have used PT 4x4 between fence posts and use rebar to stake them into the ground so my dogs wouldn't dig also. Thanks for watching.
What he did was obviously better, but what I have done to help prevent dogs digging under the fence was use pavers. I have done the concrete forms when I needed a like knee-wall under the fence and used stone to cover it.
You might consider stress cables in your next pour. Works really well in place of rebar😊
Why? It's not bearing any load and that's why concrete is reinforced. Having metal rods and wire inside the pour will not stop the natural expansion and contraction of the concrete due to changes in temperature and humidity...and in fact will likely contribute to an early failure.
I do like this idea and I did this when building my new fence but super simple way: after I set my posts, I just dug out a couple (3-4”) of dirt between my posts, got 2, 1x4’s and covered one side (the inside that goes towards the concrete) with 3” blue 3M tape (so the concrete doesn’t stick to my boards), put them down in the gap between the posts with a 10-11” spacing.. just let the top of the board be flush with the ground level .. filled some of the dirt back into the gap so I have about a 2” depth left to fill with the concrete.. stepped on the dirt to compact it down.. added 2 or 3 small (1x2) spacer boards across the top to hold the boards to that 10-11” spacing .. and filled up with mixed concrete. I did put some plastic on top to allow the concrete to cure slowly - took that off after a couple days. Then removed the form. It’s been over one year and they’re still holding up just fine.
You could form, pour and finish a chain-wall for me any day. Nice work.
Bro, you're doing pretty good. Just a little suggestion. Concrete expansion filler needs to be installed only every 20 feet or so. Also I wish you would drill 30 degree angle with half inch rotohammer drill bit in those post bases ,and insert by baby sledge 14-16 inch #4 rebars, sharpened slightly by grinder disc. Then bend them one of each side in to those curbs. Then the whole system would be connected without "cold joint".
That's a genius idea! I'm about to pour an ADA ramp that abuts to a concrete driveway and will use this approach to keep them in sync. Thanks!
Wow now that’s an overkill 😂
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and make this video. This is one of the most detailed and prepared instructional videos I have found. If you were for hire, you would be even busier than I am sure you already are. Thanks again.
Thank you very much. It is a fine line between being very informative and being too long of a video. I am glad you liked the video and thank you so much for watching.
I did a similar thing under a fence already in place, but my work is really messy. It was just to keep the dog from digging under. Yours looks great.
Yeah the dogs are good at digging under. Thanks for watching.
Uh oh, new favorite channel found today! Thank you for making this video and explaining why you do each step, for what reason for a new peraon who has no idea. Very helpful, easy to learn! 🎉❤🙏
thank you, I get static for explaining so much but I do that so newbies can go out and do the projects. Thank you for watching.
Excellent teaching video! Especially the troweling explanations, but all of it really helped me understand the rationale behind the way you did it.
Great, Thank you and glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
I've considered doing that... but I'm opting for Trex decking laid flat instead as I'm dealing with PVC picket and three different chain link fences on adjoining neighbors' properties and my dog run. For future projects perhaps you may want to consider some of the following observations. While the process progressed I kept waiting for the application of concrete form release oil... 😉 The edging tool is a good idea as the rounded edges would be a lot less prone to chipping over time. The texture in the concrete surface left by the edger is considered a workman like finish... and if you edge between doing the magnesium troweling and the steel troweling you can still get a nice finished surface without fighting with the edge too much--a gentle application of the edger can tidy it up. Also, they make a narrow edger for sidewalks--it looked like the edger you showed was for slabs (or example, check Amazon for Bon 12-436 Edger). The narrow edger would leave more flat surface exposed.
Seems perfect for keeping my dog from digging under
Your work is simply magnificent!
You show how good you are by how well you hide your mistakes. Cause there will always be some
Love how you used padding to protect your knees.. working on knees is so much better when more comfortable….
Yes it is. I recently bought a new kneeling pad that is 2" thick and it is awesome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you it looks awesome. I love the idea with the saws all using it as a vibrator really cool
You are welcome, glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
You are hired!
Fantastic job. You can probably build a brick wall on top of it when you get bored of having a fence. If you're going through the hassle of doing it, better to do it well. Nothing OCD about it. Thanks for the instructions!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching.
Nice idea but I don't think it would be strong enough to support a brick wall.
What a fantastic example... Thank you for the video, and you keen awareness and attention to detail. Knowing how to do something vs. how to do something right, is very different, isn't it?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching. doing and doing correctly are definitely different
THE HELL IT DOES!!! Bad wood rots in concrete as fast as it does without it! My former roomie spent 28 HOURS last week (and he ran a "skeeter" and a horizontal boring machine to instal fiber optics and electrical services to houses for 5+ years!) with a mini-track hoe ripping out nearly 600 feet of wooden fence my cheap-ass uncle installed 38 years ago, less than three months before I bought my Grandparent's house from their Estate! Carl had to also break-up and dig-up the concrete "curbing", and I'm having GIGABUCKS worth of new cyclone fencing installed, with the support poles in new concrete "curbing" (7500 PSI Ready-Mix with re-mesh) and "pots" 16" deep for the posts (tree roots). And you gotta run the weed-eater along the curbing each time you mow! Five hundred and 60-odd feet takes me and my BIG two-stroke weed-eater about 20 hours to edge-out I use a wire wheel brush (12 or 14") to trim neater.
I made a similar concrete curb on the lower.edge.of a chain link . It keeps the dogs from going under it and it stiffened up the fence . Also it keeps small trees and weeds.from.growing along the fence . Despite many benefits, because it is a shared fence, my neighbor did not like the way I concreted "his" fence so be sure to let your neighbor know .