very helpful video however its important to note that the amount of oil recommended in this video of 1.85 pints is for US only..... In the UK where the cars were built the equivalent amount of oil is 1.5 pints or 0.85 litre ......its easy to confuse the correct amount of oil required so best to refer to a handbook. i found this video very helpful however refitting the 2x small pinion wheels and their copper cups correctly so the the pinion pin could be fitted was a nightmare. It is necessary to fit the lower pinion wheel without copper shim then turn the larger differential wheels at the sides until the lower pinion wheel is right at the back before fitting the top pinion wheel. This requires holding the lower pinion wheel in place with a finger at the back or it will fall out and you'll have to start again. When fitting the top pinion wheel you need to place it into the 2x differential wheels so that it is exactly opposite the lower pinion wheel that you are holding with your fingers so that the pinion pin will pass through both pinion wheels . it may take several attempts of reinserting the top pinion wheel 1x tooth back or forward at a time until the 2x pinions line up exactly... ask me how I know
Good point about the volumetric differences. The US pint is 16 fluid ounces and the UK is 20 fluid ounces. The US and UK fluid ounces are *almost* the same but not quite. They use to be the same up to 1824 when the UK government unilaterally changed the definition of a gallon and made the fluid ounce 1/160th of a gallon. The US didn't get the memo and kept with the utterly bizarre one gallon = 231 cubic inches and made the fluid ounce 1/128th of that. Wikipedia has the whole story.
excellent, thanks to your video i attempted this on my car and did it successfully. The only problems i did have were that the centre pin was very tight and took about an hour to remove, but went back in easily. if i ever do it again i think i'll remove the fuel tank first. Thanks again
Over the handbrake levers there should sit rubber covers for preventing dirt entering the rearbrake drums. I did not see them, but in any case the old ones can easily be renewed with the cable off the lever (to be repeated on the other side of the car)
Well, I'd give it a qualified 'yes'. From the video you can see that the old spacers had vanished (one wonders if they were ever there :) ) . Under normal circumstances there's no doubt that the new spacers helped with the clunk sound - that is if you had a noisy vibrating gas/petrol engine at the front. I converted this car to somewhat quieter electric drive and what I've found is that the old splined wheels have enough play to cause another clunk on acceleration and braking. The answer to that is to convert the wheels from splines to bolts; buy new splined hubs and wheels or modify the old wheels so they jam on the splines properly. I did the latter and have been roundly condemned by the mg literati so, although it works a treat in stopping the wheel spline clunk, I wouldn't recommend that method.
Was about to renew my seals and shoes but you made it look less scary than I'd imagined so I'll do the shims and bearings if needed, nice lift, where did you get it. Regards Steve.....
The lift I bought is this one from Harbor Freight Tools www.harborfreight.com/6000-lb-capacity-scissor-lift-91315.html It seems to have gone up a bit in price over that last 8 years :) The MG just about fits width-wise but the limited clearance of the MG means I have to drive up on to a couple of pieces of 2 by 8 to get the under body away from the top surface of the lift.
It has been a considerable time since I did this job. I had to repost the video about 4years after its first posting (UA-cam issues) so the video is about 10years older now and so am I! However, I can see from the video that my camera angle at the moment in question was hardly optimal and I can imagine your comments watching it:-) What I do remember, was the right hand side half axle was still moved out a bit (as described in the first part) and I definitely recall rotating the right hand cog as I eased the top wheel in. I also remember having to do this a couple of times to get the top and bottom wheels to line up because, as you can imagine, the bottom wheel rotates at the same time when the right cog is turned. So I put the bottom wheel in first by rotating the right cog 'down' (clockwise looking outwards from the diff to the wheel) while the bottom wheel fed in to the right location at the bottom. Then I rotated the right cog MORE clockwise a bit thereby twisting the bottom wheel back further back out of position( but not all the way) then I put the top wheel in and rotated the right cog COUNTER-clockwise. This got the top wheel in while the bottom wheel then rotated back to the right spot. After a couple of goes the top and bottom wheels were aligned. That's a lot of words that 10seconds of video would have shown! Hope this helps a bit. And good luck!
That structure is a frame where I mount and secure the electric motor that drives the car. There's no 'prop' shaft, just a toothed sprocket attached to the differential driven by a toothed belt from the AC motor. It means that there's quite a lot of extra unsprung weight but this arrangement has been working well over the last 10 years.
@@jaymeilstrup380 The MGs make excellent donor cars for conversion (even James May agrees - a bit). You don't have to spend whatever ridiculous sum of money for a conversion that May was driving. After the 'B' I converted a GT for a friend and, being a hard top, that was more satisfying a project. If I did another, I'd use a Leaf motor and leave the original gear box in (you only really need 3rd and 4th gear) and I'd leave the clutch mechanism in too.
very helpful video however its important to note that the amount of oil recommended in this video of 1.85 pints is for US only..... In the UK where the cars were built the equivalent amount of oil is 1.5 pints or 0.85 litre ......its easy to confuse the correct amount of oil required so best to refer to a handbook. i found this video very helpful however refitting the 2x small pinion wheels and their copper cups correctly so the the pinion pin could be fitted was a nightmare.
It is necessary to fit the lower pinion wheel without copper shim then turn the larger differential wheels at the sides until the lower pinion wheel is right at the back before fitting the top pinion wheel. This requires holding the lower pinion wheel in place with a finger at the back or it will fall out and you'll have to start again. When fitting the top pinion wheel you need to place it into the 2x differential wheels so that it is exactly opposite the lower pinion wheel that you are holding with your fingers so that the pinion pin will pass through both pinion wheels . it may take several attempts of reinserting the top pinion wheel 1x tooth back or forward at a time until the 2x pinions line up exactly... ask me how I know
Good point about the volumetric differences. The US pint is 16 fluid ounces and the UK is 20 fluid ounces. The US and UK fluid ounces are *almost* the same but not quite. They use to be the same up to 1824 when the UK government unilaterally changed the definition of a gallon and made the fluid ounce 1/160th of a gallon. The US didn't get the memo and kept with the utterly bizarre one gallon = 231 cubic inches and made the fluid ounce 1/128th of that. Wikipedia has the whole story.
Well done! If only all how to videos were so well executed!
excellent, thanks to your video i attempted this on my car and did it successfully. The only problems i did have were that the centre pin was very tight and took about an hour to remove, but went back in easily. if i ever do it again i think i'll remove the fuel tank first. Thanks again
Crispin Allen how did you get the top gear back in, having issues, getting it to slide in. Thanks
Over the handbrake levers there should sit rubber covers for preventing dirt entering the rearbrake drums. I did not see them, but in any case the old ones can easily be renewed with the cable off the lever (to be repeated on the other side of the car)
This has just helped enormously. Thanks.
Just a great video. Thank you.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks.
Priceless info thank you.
You did a lovely job..... but did it stop the CLUNK. ??? you didnt say
Well, I'd give it a qualified 'yes'. From the video you can see that the old spacers had vanished (one wonders if they were ever there :) ) . Under normal circumstances there's no doubt that the new spacers helped with the clunk sound - that is if you had a noisy vibrating gas/petrol engine at the front. I converted this car to somewhat quieter electric drive and what I've found is that the old splined wheels have enough play to cause another clunk on acceleration and braking. The answer to that is to convert the wheels from splines to bolts; buy new splined hubs and wheels or modify the old wheels so they jam on the splines properly. I did the latter and have been roundly condemned by the mg literati so, although it works a treat in stopping the wheel spline clunk, I wouldn't recommend that method.
Was about to renew my seals and shoes but you made it look less scary than I'd imagined so I'll do the shims and bearings if needed, nice lift, where did you get it. Regards Steve.....
The lift I bought is this one from Harbor Freight Tools www.harborfreight.com/6000-lb-capacity-scissor-lift-91315.html It seems to have gone up a bit in price over that last 8 years :) The MG just about fits width-wise but the limited clearance of the MG means I have to drive up on to a couple of pieces of 2 by 8 to get the under body away from the top surface of the lift.
You are a surgeon
Great video, but played and played with getting the top gear back in. Ok, what the trick????😳
It has been a considerable time since I did this job. I had to repost the video about 4years after its first posting (UA-cam issues) so the video is about 10years older now and so am I! However, I can see from the video that my camera angle at the moment in question was hardly optimal and I can imagine your comments watching it:-) What I do remember, was the right hand side half axle was still moved out a bit (as described in the first part) and I definitely recall rotating the right hand cog as I eased the top wheel in. I also remember having to do this a couple of times to get the top and bottom wheels to line up because, as you can imagine, the bottom wheel rotates at the same time when the right cog is turned.
So I put the bottom wheel in first by rotating the right cog 'down' (clockwise looking outwards from the diff to the wheel) while the bottom wheel fed in to the right location at the bottom. Then I rotated the right cog MORE clockwise a bit thereby twisting the bottom wheel back further back out of position( but not all the way) then I put the top wheel in and rotated the right cog COUNTER-clockwise. This got the top wheel in while the bottom wheel then rotated back to the right spot. After a couple of goes the top and bottom wheels were aligned.
That's a lot of words that 10seconds of video would have shown!
Hope this helps a bit. And good luck!
What is the welded structure above the diff?
That structure is a frame where I mount and secure the electric motor that drives the car. There's no 'prop' shaft, just a toothed sprocket attached to the differential driven by a toothed belt from the AC motor. It means that there's quite a lot of extra unsprung weight but this arrangement has been working well over the last 10 years.
@@mikeatyouttube That explains the lack of gas tank in the way.
@@jaymeilstrup380 The MGs make excellent donor cars for conversion (even James May agrees - a bit). You don't have to spend whatever ridiculous sum of money for a conversion that May was driving. After the 'B' I converted a GT for a friend and, being a hard top, that was more satisfying a project. If I did another, I'd use a Leaf motor and leave the original gear box in (you only really need 3rd and 4th gear) and I'd leave the clutch mechanism in too.
Yes i was looking for this also. Thank YOU.