AVID CNC Pro 4' x 10' build with Rotary Axis and Vertical Table
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- [Update 4/4/22] Several of the songs in this video have been released at the links below. If you want to support my channel, please check them out and spread them around.
Spotify: open.spotify.com/album/0kLkx0...
UA-cam Music: • Album - Divide by Zero
Apple Music: / divide-by-zero
Amazon: music.amazon.com/albums/B09WG...
There are several videos already on UA-cam already documenting various AVID CNC builds, so I tried to focus this on things I found particularly useful and show the whole process using time lapse.
I want to thank Frank Howarth and Jay Bates for their CNC build videos. They had a lot of useful tips and tricks.
Frank Howarth: / frankhowarth
Jay Bates: / jaybates'
Contents
0:00 - Introduction
0:48 - Dust Collector Assembly
1:18 - Unpacking/Organizing CNC Parts
1:29 - 4' by 4' Table Assembly
2:20 - 4' by 6' Table Extension Assembly
2:35 - Crossmember Spacing
3:00 - Y Axis Linear Rail Installation
3:33 - Y Axis Linear Rail Alignment
3:53 - Y Axis Gear Rack Installation
4:17 - Y Axis Linear Bearing Block Installation
4:36 - Dust Cover Installation
4:51 - Bumper Installation
4:58 - Riser Assembly
5:16 - Gantry Assembly
5:31 - X Axis Gear Rack Installation
5:37 - X Axis Linear Rail Installation
5:49 - X Axis Linear Rail Alignment
5:59 - X Axis Linear Bearing Block Installation
6:16 - Nema 34 Drive Assemblies
7:02 - Nema 34 Y Axis Drive Installation
7:21 - Nema 34 X Axis Drive Installation
7:35 - Nema 34 Z Axis Drive Installation
7:47 - Cable Track Installation
9:13 - Proximity Sensors and Cable Routing
9:54 - CNC & Spindle Control Boxes Installation
10:40 - More Cable Routing
11:53 - Linear Rail Hole Covers Installation
12:21 - Spindle Installation
12:49 - Initial Homing
13:11 - Bottom Spoil Board Hold Down Screw Pattern
14:07 - Bottom Spoil Board Bench Dog Recesses
15:01 - Dust Collector Hose Support
16:09 - Rotary Axis Installation
16:42 - Rotary Axis Linear Rail Installation
16:58 - Rotary Axis Linear Rail Alignment
18:01 - Rotary Axis Alignment
19:20 - Rotary Axis Cable Routing
19:29 - Vertical Table
21:31 - Top Spoil Board Bench Dogs and Screw Downs
22:36 - T Track Groove Routing
23:44 - T Track Installation
25:00 - Gantry Tramming Fine Adjustment with 2” Cutter
25:59 - Spoil Board Surfacing
26:25 - Laptop Enclosure
27:54 - Laptop Enclosure Dry Fit
28:38 - Laptop Enclosure Glue Up
29:04 - Laptop Enclosure Air Filter Fit Test and Fan Install
29:26 - Laptop Enclosure Door
30:55 - CNC Bit and Wrench Carousel - Навчання та стиль
Enjoyed your video! My 5x10 is sitting in boxes and I hope to be assembling soon. Many delays and trying to prep workspace now. Will be looking forward to more content from you and hoping to share some of my own eventually.
Thanks! I would be interested to hear how you like it. I did the 4' width because I didn't think I'd be doing much with Baltic Birch and didn't want to sacrifice rigidity... A couple months later and several times having ripped Baltic Birch sheets down to 4' x 5' to fit them on the machine... I'm beginning to think I should have done a 5' x 10'.
Thanks for sharing Jeff! Really enjoyed the video. We are about three weeks from receiving our pro5x10 now. We Would love to see more into how you laid out your spoilboard between the rotary axis and vertical work surface, such a versatile setup!
Hi and thank you! With all the projects I want to do it may be a while before I make any videos detailing the layout of the CNC bed. To summarize how I came up with the spacing, I first went into Mach 4 and changed the machine configuration to be about 124" like Jay Bates showed in his video so I could use the full travel of the y axis. Then I jogged the machine to the +y extent of the machine travel and looked at where the cutter was lining up. I figured about 7-8 inches of cut depth in the rotary axis was a conservative estimate for clearance and measured over from the cutter head to find where the center of the rotary should be. Then I loosened and repositioned the cross members to make a spot for mounting the rotary axis. I hope that helps.
I’m so glad you have a channel John.
Your CNC came out awesome
You laptop station also what a
Great setup
Thanks! It was a fun build.
Great video! and awesome music!!!
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Great vidio and dialog.
I like how youuse the CNC 10 ft bed as an assembly table!!....wonderful for a small production shop with small footprint.!... CNC AND assebly on one side and other woodwork equip on the other ..bandsaw, table saw, planer etc....
I know i can now make this work in my 13 ft x 23ft shop with the big Laguna 3 Cyclone in the corner....
Thanks Doug! I'm glad you enjoyed it. The CNC sure is a game changer if you only have a small space like I do. I'm working on some projects now that are slow moving but I'm hoping to finish them up and put up some more videos that will show how beneficial the CNC is. I'd love to have a huge planer, jointer, table saw, etc, but there's just no way they'd fit. I can do a lot of the stuff I'd use those tools for with the CNC though.
Massive XG2 for N64 vibes happening with that music hahaha
Never played that one I had to look it up. Reminds me a bit of Road Blasters with the power ups. We mostly played Goldeneye and NBA Jams on N64.
@@NorskieCNC the 1st time i broke the sound barrier i was hooked haha. So much cool multiplayer content too. Not easy to master either good fun to play.
I should be receiving my Avid 48 96 in the next couple of days. I also got the rotary axis and plan to incorporate a vertical table. Is there a reason you didn't go closer to the front edge with your vertical table? Mine will be a full 2 foot shorter so space is a little more precious for me. Im thinking of only allowing 3-4 inches travel for the vertical table. I doubt I will use much more. Im also thinking of making the rotary axis motorized so I can drop it below the table when not in use....I think you were the smart one just adding the extra 2 foot😉
Howdy! The considerations I had when choosing how to place the vertical table were (1) trying to get the most vertical space for tall/thick pieces while not jeopardizing my rotary axis and (2) having enough space to process a standard 4' x 8' sheet with some buffer to prevent my 2" spoil board facing bit from coming in contact with any parts of the rotary axis. If you haven't built your machine yet I'd recommend calling Avid and just seeing what it would take to switch to a 4' x 10'. The retractable rotary sounds like it could be laden with potential frustration since it will have to be rigid enough to stay in place when you want to use it.
I am putting together my 5 x 10 right now and my hands are killing me LOL. Your music is freaking awesome. I want to figure out what that was and play more of it in my shop LOL
Hi Jeff. It is definitely an undertaking putting these machines together. Best of luck to you! The music is all actually original stuff I've made over the last few years but none of it has been released on any platform yet. Maybe I should put it up for download on bandcamp?
How's your 5'x10' working out? I am building one right now with rotary and vertical table and just finished sliding on and greasing the bearing blocks. What did you end up doing for a spoil board and dust shoe?
Hi Jeff. It looks like it might be a while before the music from this video is ready for release, but I added an update at the top of the video description with a link to a Spotify playlist [ open.spotify.com/playlist/4q73vgAuuOgjERnArB5eZk?si=a6968e90a69e4f1a ] of some of my band's more popular songs. I think you'll like it if you dig the music in the video. Have a good one!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. My 4x10 arrives in a few weeks so this is great help as to what I am up for. What dust collector did you go with and are u happy with it, especially with MDF?
Thanks! My dust collector is a Baileigh Industrial DC-2100C. It works great for most cuts as is. I use the Kent CNC dust boot because I wanted to have a dust collection right away and didn't want to have to make one to get started. The only change that I'll probably make in the future is to make a dual 4" dust boot and run them to a common 6" hose. That is to catch more dust when using my 2" facing bit. That bit tends to leave a lot of dust when the direction of the cut is throwing dust towards the side of the boot that doesn't have a hose. Frank Howarth has a really good video where he sets up dust collection like what I'm describing.
Here's a link to Frank's video... ua-cam.com/video/hqyxRLoujts/v-deo.html
@@NorskieCNC thanks Jeff, i appreciate the reply greatly. I found this dust shoe recently too that may be of great interest to you. Ill attach a link. Keep up the great content 👍🏻
Well, that was really entertaining and the music was great, so I bookmarked it. Putting together my 5 x10 now and, like some of your innovations! How is the track in the spoilboard working out? Thought about that before seeing yours…😎
Hi Paul! I'm glad you enjoyed it. I have used the T-tracks a lot. I also made some cam shaped MDF pieces that have a dowel that slots into the bench dog holes. I have used them together with the T-tracks when I need to hold a piece and don't want to risk the clamp getting hit by the router bit. My other videos show them in use. I didn't want to go with a vacuum pump because of the cost, noise, and power requirements. Plus they are limited in what they can hold well. One recommendation if you go with the T-tracks is that you can jog the cutter head around after you've zeroed your work coordinates and loaded the g code to make sure that you don't have any cuts that will come into contact with a clamp. If you're clamping a piece that has an odd shape like an L, remember that the program will drive the cutter between parts of the program without displaying that motion in the mach 4 preview. In that case I usually just set a high retract height that I know will clear the clamps. I've grazed a couple clamps when I forgot to do this, but luckily not bad enough to ruin the router bit.
Hope you had a happy Veterans day if you served or you have family or friends that served. I'm curious where you got your T-track and if it was hard to find them in 5ft lengths? I was able to finalize my leg spacings and don't need you to measure yours.
I didn't get much time today to work on my CNC, but was able to install the 16 gussets and check the square and leveling again. I had to move three of the crossmembers to align them with the legs for the gussets. The spacing the gave us in the directions made them off by just a little.
Thanks David and same to you! My T tracks are from Rockler and they are 4 feet long since my machine is 4'x10'. There are cheaper alternatives than Rockler but I figured it was a one time cost so better not to cut corners.
@@NorskieCNC Thanks for pointing out the 8" gantry x 12" Z axis. That's the same one I have so I'll have to make the same changes in Mach4.
Jeff, thank you for the video you really put some effort into it. I've got a PRO60120 with the 4th axis like you and just finished leveling the leg kit.
When did you plan your leg moves? I like the way you have it set up, can you send me the measurements between the leg sets and where you have the 4th Axis and vertical table? I've got change where my legs are before I go any farther.
I'm going to be working in my garage also to open a small shop. How much woodworking have you done before getting the CNC? It looks like you have the same two sided garage that I have with that wooden post in the middle. Right now I only have half the garage, but I'm going to see how much "encroachment" I can do on the other half and see if my wife says anything.... lol
I've got to plan the leg move before going any further. I'm glad I saw your video to remind me about leg placement.
In addition to what you have I plan on adding a 15W OPT laser.
Hi David. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by planning the leg moves. In my case the rotary axis clearance kind of drove the placement of everything else in the end. I adjusted the machine settings in mach 4 to the actual y axis length (it is a few inches more than the 120" default). Then I drove the gantry to max y+ to see where the cutter would line up and measured over to give about 7-8" of clearance from the cutter to the rotary centerline. Then the placement of the legs for the vertical table became a trade off between the height of items the vertical table can be used for and clearance to make sure my cutters don't nip the rotary axis when doing stuff like spoil board surfacing. I will take some more measurements and post them here so you have specifics.
@@NorskieCNC When did you decide to change where the legs were spaced? The directions state otherwise and I wondered if you got as far as I have and changed it, or if you knew you were going to change them.
I've got to decide my leg changes before I move forward and add the linear rails and move forward.
Hi Jeff - great inspiration for a future plan I'd like to do, that's a good setup you have. As an observer (not yet an operator) your dust shoe seems high as the bit is in fresh air when cutting so there must be some psoil flying out and not being collecte3d. If you watch April Wilkerson's CNC Shop Tour you'll see the dust brushes are always in contact with the work and get pressed down as the bit is cutting so it's a more 'closed system' for dust extraction whilst working, no gap between the brush and board so you'd not need to be following every finished board with a vac to clear up the chaff as the extractor will have already done it as it cuts. Just wondering.... Nice job! 👍
Sorry for the delayed reply but thanks for the suggestion! I have definitely gotten better at picking the right bit and then placing it in the chuck in a way to reduce missed dust since making this video. There are some longer bits like my 1/2" straight flute that I'd probably need to modify my dust shoe to use without making a mess, but luckily I don't need to use them often. I do most of my cutting with the Whiteside RD2075 down cut 1/4" bit.
Where did you get your dust shoe from and are you happy with it? Have you selected a control Pendant option?
The dust shoe is from Kent CNC. It gets the job done but honestly I wish they had a design that supported two 4" hoses. There are operations like facing with larger bits where the one sided design misses a lot of dust. Also I had to epoxy the house attachment insert back onto the dust shoe a couple weeks into using it. I was surprised when it came apart, but it was an easy fix. I don't think I will use a control pendant because the location of my mach 4 laptop station makes it easy enough to just jog the machine using the keyboard. I have seen that some people use video game controllers.
Thanks for your awsome build video & laptop solution. I'm interested in purchasing a CNC router table but I have some nagging questions:. What CAD software do you use & is it 3D capable ? What CAM software do you use to translate the designs into machine code ? Thanks
Hi! So far I've done all my CAD and CAM in Fusion 360 and run it in Mach 4. I also bought VCarve but have yet to use it since the work I've been doing has been well suited to do in Fusion. My understanding is that VCarve is a bit less flexible but makes some tasks easier. For example they have libraries of prebuilt geometry that can be used to mill impressions that would take a lot of effort to CAD and CAM in Fusion.
@@NorskieCNC My interest is in making 3D carvings, which Fusion 360 can support designing. Though I'm used to designing in Inventor.
Have you done any 3D milling (i.e: sculptures ) ? If yes, what file type are you sending to Mach 4 ? STP ? STL ?
Just to verify, the Fusion 360 file is sent to Mach 4, which creates the g code AND controls the tooling path ?
I've been researching this topic for months on UA-cam & yours is the first reply. TYVM. No one, that I've found, has made a video HOW to take a 3D design in (Fusion, Solid, Inventor...) to finished cnc item. It might help your channel. TY
@@Jester62D I haven't done true 3d milling yet. Mostly I've been doing what I believe would be considered 2.5 degree with dados/rabbets/etc at varying depths. I suppose I have done a couple paths that involved ramped milling in Fusion that some might consider 3d but none of that was recorded for UA-cam. The way I generate the G code is by using the Fusion post processor profile/plugin that Avid provides on their website. It works within Fusion and outputs .tap files that Mach 4 can load and run natively. My workflow is that I post them to a shared drive since I do my modeling on a separate PC than the one that controls the CNC. I believe Avid has the same type of post processor plugin for VCarve but I haven't used it yet.
@@NorskieCNC Awesome. Thanks for the answers. My intent is to carve bowls on the CNC then do the finishing on a lathe. This results in router rough carving while I'm at work. Followed by final finishing after supper. Probably knock out 4 bowls per day vs. 1 every other day, lathe only.
@@Jester62D I'm glad to be able to help. Bowl making sounds like fun. I don't have a lathe but I enjoy watching some of the crazy stuff people do with them on UA-cam.
Hey Jeff. I have the same machine ready for assembly. Your video is great with some really good tips. Just a quick question. Did you get Jay Bates template file for your spoil board or did you design it yourself?
Thanks Kurt! I created my own spoil board template because my table construction varied slightly from his (I believe he had the 6 ft table crossmembers span across the break point between the 4 foot and 6 foot table sections, which means the crossmembers were likely to be spaced differently). After constructing the machine, I measured out and built a model of the CNC bed in fusion 360 including the table crossmembers and the sacrificial 2x4s that the spoil boards screw down into. I then used that model to figure out how to best space the spoil board dog holes and screw down holes. I hope that is helpful.
@@NorskieCNC thanks a bunch. It did help. I would like to bounce some ideas etc off you.
@@kurtmartin8162 I haven't set up anything for this channel to be able to private IM and UA-cam doesn't support that feature anymore. Do you have any recommendations?
I have an instagram s and m design.
@@kurtmartin8162 when I search that in Instagram there are a lot of results. What does your logo look like so I know which is you?
Thanks for the helpful video. Tip, can you turn the background music way down. Kinda loud and then when you speak I have to turn the volume back up
Thanks for the feedback. I wanted to keep the music volume up when I wasn't talking so I used audio ducking. I might have had the setting too high.
@@NorskieCNC no worries, are you enjoying the Avid CNC? I'm thinking about getting the 4x8.
Yes it adds a lot of capabilities that are otherwise very difficult to accomplish in a small shop like mine. I have a couple more projects in the works and will put up some more videos soon. I'm taking my time ramping up the complexity to make sure I've worked any kinks out of the machine.
I agree on the music being too loud. The level of the music while you were speaking was perfect if you could just leave it there the whole time. Nice video. Would you recommend or comment on the dust collector you are using? I've got an Avid 5 x 10 with automatic tool changer in boxes out in the garage awaiting assembly, but I have not decided on a dust collector yet.
Also, do you have the design for the laptop enclosure for sale or download?
I have a new website that I just put up (norskie.com) but I haven't put up any models for download yet. There are some other things like a metric to standard and decimal to fraction converter calculator that you may find helpful. I am still considering which models I would want to post. Some of the early ones like the laptop cabinet are far from perfect. I would hate for someone to download and run them without taking another look to find any issues. Maybe I'll post them for download with a disclaimer to make sure people know to double check measurements before using them. I'll let you know if I do.
I like to have one after see this make me think maybe to hard to build and may look at our company thanks
I wouldn't say it's difficult as long as you follow the directions. It's definitely time consuming though. Bottom line for me is that I enjoyed the process of building it kinda like an adult version of Legos. It's also been an awesome tool that has allowed me to do many things I couldn't without it.
How did you end up configuring the table to move your rotary?
Hi Pete. You can really put it on whichever end you want it on. I have seen some people put it on the Y0 end of the table. I wanted to have the slightly recessed vertical table there so I installed it on the Y+ end of the table. The most helpful thing I found was in another UA-cam video that showed that you can get another 4" - 6" travel out of the machine if you adjust the machine dimensions in Mach 4 to match the actual bed (it defaults to 120" I believe). Those few extra inches allowed for the recessed vertical table (to support taller vertical jobs), a full sheet 4'x8' cutting area, and the vertical table on my 4'x10' CNC.
@@NorskieCNC You have a picture on the main page of your website showing your rotary axis. Looks like it is a couple of inches from your spoil board but there is lumber that is blocking the backend of your CNC. I'm looking to order another cross piece because the only other option was to move the last cross piece forward a few inches but that support is used to stiffen the frame. What did you do there (under the lumber)? THanks BTW I like the music
Any cnc that uses belts is not pro. That simple. Great video though.
Thanks. I have the word Pro in the title to denote that this model is in what Avid refers to as their Pro line of machines and not the Standard or Benchtop lines.
@@NorskieCNC I understand. Thanks for the videos.