Exactly I'm a woman and I think I can change it on my charger SRT8 myself he really explained everything step by step and he got to the point 😂. LoL great video
Excellent Video, my 18yr old daughter with no experience on cars, except for oil changes, followed all the steps you laid out and we finished in two hours, and without pneumatic tools - we will do the drivers side tomorrow - after replacing the passenger side on her 2010 Dodge Charger, she exclaimed, "It's so smooth, it's scary". Great Video, thanks for publishing it - and great personal touches, You do you BooBoo, Nice!
+@speedee7508 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Just watched all your videos for the front suspension replacement for the 06 charger this morning. Did both sides today (full kit replacement) went great, except for the usual hiccups (205k on my car, lots of knuckle busters). Thanks for having the best videos out there for this kind of stuff, it certainly helped a lot today.
The only way to get to them (rear-facing nuts) is with an *18mm flex head ratchet wrench*. You WON'T be able to fit a socket in there, so don't waste your time.
This was a great video. The only issue I had was dropping the strut. I had to remove the bolt at the base. Just removing the sway bar wouldn't allow it to drop.
READ FIRST: The nuts facing the rear of the car are a PAIN to remove. The only way to get to them is with an *18mm flex head ratchet wrench*. You WON'T be able to fit a socket in there, so don't waste your time (especially on the passenger side). Also, you may not NEED to remove your strut tower, check the bolt clearance first before doing so. I ended up removing one side on a Charger but not the other side, and on a 300, I didn't remove either. Other than that, it's a breeze of a job; ~1.5hrs on jack stands on a hot day. This applies to all Chargers and 300s (perhaps Challengers too, not certain).
I'm sorry man, but I gotta go thumbs down. Yes it's a great video, but you're misleading people by making it look that easy and not showing how to get at the rear nut on the passenger side. If you're thinking about doing this repair, be warned - that one bolt is brutal. Theres another UA-cam video from an amateur who shows you how to get the support bar off to get at it, and also has a good tip about torquing those bolts.
Chrysler should've welded the rear-facing nuts ONTO the frame. That way, mechanics can remove/install the bolt from the wheel well (where there is ENOUGH SPACE to fit a frickin wrench!).
Since most of us are probably going to have to replace every component in the front all at once, can you edit a version of all your front end videos where they are all done at once so we can see the best order to do it. Thank you for your great videos!
Question, so I have a 2018 Challenger Scat Pack. I had Eibach pro springs put on and then this summer I had (what I thought was correct struts/shocks) installed..Eibach pro damper shocks and struts. Drove ok no sounds. I was due for new tires, and had pretty good inner tire wear so I decided it was time to add the Eibach pro camber kit. It was after this install that I noticed a knock. Driving around town was fine, but at higher speeds if I hit a dip in the road a bridge deck seam....I would get a hard knock...almost like shock was bottoming out. I took it to another shop and they seem to think (because camber arms were last installed) that it was hitting in the upper fender well. I'm not sure if that is even possible. After doing some research, I realized the Eibach pro damper struts/shocks are not made for Scats and Hellcats. So I ordered the a set of the original B6 Bilstein struts (with internal bump stomp) to see if this fixes the problem. Do you have any further ideas on why, when hitting a sudden dip in the road, pothole I'm getting loud bang....only from the front and equal noise on left/right. Rear end suspension seems fine.
I did this on the driver side and passenger, on the passenger side I did not release the sway bar link, I was able to get the bolts for the control arm out with some finagling. I also did a tie rod end and lower ball joint. That side rides fine. I went to the drivers side and replaced the control arm over there, but I did release the sway bar link for that side while the strut was not under pressure. It dropped down and I got the bolts out, I did not tighten the bolts all the way until I had it at ride height of course. But, the strut tower bolts (the 3) are not exactly aligned to where they were previously, and now it clunks pretty hard over bumps (the control arm I would assume). Any thoughts?
Can you guys PLEASE post the same video without editing, please! Everytime I go to do this job, any of the parts I actually struggle with, y'all skip over what tools you use and how you actually monkey it out of there.
+Elijah Ace This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You wont reply but these gotta get a thumbs down for not only skipping steps or just straight up omitting crucial steps on torqing all the bolts ....its also extremly unprofessional to not torgue these bolts under the cars weight or with a jack...if I knew mechanics were doing this theyd be told to redo it because you are factually causing premature damage to the bushings and looking like youre lazy and dont know what youre doing
Yeah for example on the driver side you have to remove the air filter hose before you can't get the coolant reservoir tank out. This is a good tutorial but missing a lot of steps and also missing tools that you will absolutely need. Like @1:21 what tool did he use to get the nut off?
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Damn I wish every repair video was straight to the point like this. No unnecessary jokes or too much talking, just get right to it.
I agree. He slides in some funny short jokes that suits the situation. 😆 you do you boo boo.
Exactly I'm a woman and I think I can change it on my charger SRT8 myself he really explained everything step by step and he got to the point 😂. LoL great video
Great video bro!!! Gotta love the “ you do you boo boo comment” 😂😂😂
I can’t get that part out of my head lol
Now that he pulled out the abs plug i did everything now how do take the abs light off
🤣🤣
I was like no he didn’t just say that 😂😂😂
Excellent Video, my 18yr old daughter with no experience on cars, except for oil changes, followed all the steps you laid out and we finished in two hours, and without pneumatic tools - we will do the drivers side tomorrow - after replacing the passenger side on her 2010 Dodge Charger, she exclaimed, "It's so smooth, it's scary". Great Video, thanks for publishing it - and great personal touches, You do you BooBoo, Nice!
+@speedee7508 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Just watched all your videos for the front suspension replacement for the 06 charger this morning. Did both sides today (full kit replacement) went great, except for the usual hiccups (205k on my car, lots of knuckle busters). Thanks for having the best videos out there for this kind of stuff, it certainly helped a lot today.
Do dodge charger have pittman arm???????
How did you access the nut on the passenger side?
Honestly thank you man I've been working on my charger and pretty much replaced everything by watching your videos 👍🏽
Video for the passenger side would great as well due to the firewall gets in the way
The only way to get to them (rear-facing nuts) is with an *18mm flex head ratchet wrench*. You WON'T be able to fit a socket in there, so don't waste your time.
One of the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen 👍🏼
That willie bonk at the end came with a shake!!!!💀💙🔥🔥🔥💯
You guys really make some great high quality and educational videos…….thank you
Seriously such a good video. Quick and straight to the point. Just saved me so much time
+Adam B Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This was a great video. The only issue I had was dropping the strut. I had to remove the bolt at the base. Just removing the sway bar wouldn't allow it to drop.
READ FIRST: The nuts facing the rear of the car are a PAIN to remove. The only way to get to them is with an *18mm flex head ratchet wrench*. You WON'T be able to fit a socket in there, so don't waste your time (especially on the passenger side).
Also, you may not NEED to remove your strut tower, check the bolt clearance first before doing so. I ended up removing one side on a Charger but not the other side, and on a 300, I didn't remove either. Other than that, it's a breeze of a job; ~1.5hrs on jack stands on a hot day.
This applies to all Chargers and 300s (perhaps Challengers too, not certain).
RWD
I'm sorry man, but I gotta go thumbs down. Yes it's a great video, but you're misleading people by making it look that easy and not showing how to get at the rear nut on the passenger side. If you're thinking about doing this repair, be warned - that one bolt is brutal. Theres another UA-cam video from an amateur who shows you how to get the support bar off to get at it, and also has a good tip about torquing those bolts.
Chrysler should've welded the rear-facing nuts ONTO the frame. That way, mechanics can remove/install the bolt from the wheel well (where there is ENOUGH SPACE to fit a frickin wrench!).
Tips for the rear upper nut on the passengers side? Looks like the wiper cowl needs to be removed to get to that one??
What size is sway bar nut
You forgot the torque specs for the shocks.
Great video! I really appreciate all your videos they help a lot!!
Since most of us are probably going to have to replace every component in the front all at once, can you edit a version of all your front end videos where they are all done at once so we can see the best order to do it. Thank you for your great videos!
+WJ Handy Dad Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ LOLOLOLOL he said NOPE!
You do you boo boo, love that lol Thankyou for the help
Great video but why not show how you got to the other nut towards the windshield which is a real PIA to get to.
Made him sweat, that’s why he didn’t add..I’m sure was a pain
Question, so I have a 2018 Challenger Scat Pack. I had Eibach pro springs put on and then this summer I had (what I thought was correct struts/shocks) installed..Eibach pro damper shocks and struts. Drove ok no sounds. I was due for new tires, and had pretty good inner tire wear so I decided it was time to add the Eibach pro camber kit. It was after this install that I noticed a knock. Driving around town was fine, but at higher speeds if I hit a dip in the road a bridge deck seam....I would get a hard knock...almost like shock was bottoming out. I took it to another shop and they seem to think (because camber arms were last installed) that it was hitting in the upper fender well. I'm not sure if that is even possible. After doing some research, I realized the Eibach pro damper struts/shocks are not made for Scats and Hellcats. So I ordered the a set of the original B6 Bilstein struts (with internal bump stomp) to see if this fixes the problem. Do you have any further ideas on why, when hitting a sudden dip in the road, pothole I'm getting loud bang....only from the front and equal noise on left/right. Rear end suspension seems fine.
just found your channel like your content straight to the point no Bullshit
Bro made it look so easy
Thanks I have a 06 SRT 8 dodge charger and now I no how to fix it you explained everything we need to no thank you..
How did you torque the other control arm bolt?
Oh yeah, thanks for doing the easy side. That was helpful 🙄
When is it necessary to place jack under shock to raise up the knuckle and then torque suspension bolts? Does it make a difference thanks
@1:21 how did you get that nut off, what tool did you use?
How you didn’t show how to remove rear control arm bolt
I did this on the driver side and passenger, on the passenger side I did not release the sway bar link, I was able to get the bolts for the control arm out with some finagling. I also did a tie rod end and lower ball joint. That side rides fine. I went to the drivers side and replaced the control arm over there, but I did release the sway bar link for that side while the strut was not under pressure. It dropped down and I got the bolts out, I did not tighten the bolts all the way until I had it at ride height of course. But, the strut tower bolts (the 3) are not exactly aligned to where they were previously, and now it clunks pretty hard over bumps (the control arm I would assume). Any thoughts?
What’s the torque spec on AWD for front and rear control arms? Is it the same as rwd?
The new part is a different model. Has this afect the car? . I think different models has different designs
You have to replace both at the same time, or find the old style one and do the job only on one side.
Good video now I know what I got to do to replace mine. Also it has the same issue
Ya I'm a girl and he made it look easy for me to try ,,, thanks
Great video. Wouldn't it be better to torque the upper nuts with the vehicle under it's own weight on the ground?
Great video!!! Helped a lot
+Bryan Gary Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Can you guys PLEASE post the same video without editing, please! Everytime I go to do this job, any of the parts I actually struggle with, y'all skip over what tools you use and how you actually monkey it out of there.
Great video,
Short to the point and no bullshit an you explain things well.
Great work
professional👍👍👍👍💝💝💝💝💝💝
Gracias por la infromación, muy clara y ordenada.
What size is nut on sway bar
What are the tools that are need it
He said, "just remove deez nuts"... 😆
Great video 👍🏾
That Katt williams reference xD
Is this the same for my AWD sxt ?
2014 .
+Elijah Ace This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Bro why every video is for the driver side the easiest side y’all not helping at all
Can i just jack one side of the car up to do this
Why didn’t you show how to get the upper control arm bolt closest to the firewall out? It’s not that easy.
wow that was to efficient. im bout to do mine
+Views-Issh Podcast Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Why does nobody show how to do the passenger side which is arguably the side that requires the most direction
Im doing this myself right now, the passenger side is harder because one of the nuts is hidden behind the air filter.
You didn’t show the torque on the strut bolts genius.
I can see why you didn’t make a video on the passenger side. It’s dam near impossible to get to that rear nut.
How about the other side??
+SiliconSentry The installation for the other side should be the same but backwards.
colin7761 has a video that shows how to get the support beam off that blocks the rear bolt.
I’m waiting on my mechanic to do this and pay him $150 but if anything i just feel like grabbing my tools and doing it... 😂
Never had this problem with any of my gm vehicles smh
+Michael Gardella Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You wont reply but these gotta get a thumbs down for not only skipping steps or just straight up omitting crucial steps on torqing all the bolts ....its also extremly unprofessional to not torgue these bolts under the cars weight or with a jack...if I knew mechanics were doing this theyd be told to redo it because you are factually causing premature damage to the bushings and looking like youre lazy and dont know what youre doing
Yeah for example on the driver side you have to remove the air filter hose before you can't get the coolant reservoir tank out. This is a good tutorial but missing a lot of steps and also missing tools that you will absolutely need. Like @1:21 what tool did he use to get the nut off?