Hi David, I have only recently learned of your videos from a local fine furniture maker I'm taking lessons from. I have learned more from you 2 than any other sources in the last 2-3 years. Thanks so much for sharing your skill and knowledge.
Just started cutting dovetails. Your techniques and tips have been invaluable. Project I am currently working on has 10" tall sides. Knew this alignment board would come in handy. And it did. A quick clean up from my rookie sawing and the joints went right together. Couldn't believe what a difference the alignment board made. And with this project I had to cut pins first. Worked great. Thanks for all your help!
Hi Daniel, the finish is Osmo Hardwax oil two coats. Most finishes will do, just apply the same number of coats on both sides to prevent uneven moisture absorbtion. All the best, David.
David, I finally got around to making a dovetail alignment board. Wish I had done it sooner. With the board and your guides (I have two dovetail guides and the 90 degree guide) in my arsenal I have been making dovetails that fit nearly perfectly right off the saw. Thanks as always!
I first like to say,thank you for all of the videos that you post ,i find them vary helpful. I enjoyed watching this one and now off to my shop and start on my dovetail jig. Thanks...
Or for stability you could always use ply wood or mdf (if you don't have a nice quarter sawn timber) but of course it's not going to be so pretty and classy 😊👌🏻 thanks David!
Cupping happens because the wood moves along the grain, and one side expands/contracts more than the other. Quarter-sawn boards will change slightly in thickness since the grain goes vertically as seen from its end as a board lays flat, but since the over-all thickness along the direction of movement is so small, it is a much more stable board over-all.
davidbarronwoodwork I made my alignment board from quarter-sawn oak. It works great. Thank you for the great idea and video. I really like the magnetic dovetail saw guide. My first joints using these two helpers fit perfectly.
Hi David, I have only recently discovered your videos and I want to thank you for helping me get started. You are VERY good. Would you explain why both boards are as long as they are? I'm not understanding why the board that is held in your Moxon vise is as long as the surface board. I'm just trying to get it to all make sense for me. Thank you
Gorgeous fitment. Question, why are the pins so much smaller than the tails? Is there a structural advantage over having a really close similarity in size between the pins and tails, or is it just for the beauty of the joint? Would the joint be any stronger with say central measurements being equal?
I have always had a hard time making dovetails. You make it look easy, but it is not. I would have liked to see when you marked the 2nd board, but your hand was in the way. Its the part I have a hard time with it seems. I always seem to leave gaps. Its frustrating.
Hi David. do you think you could talk about why you use the knife cutter to mark the lines? I saw a video of yours where you added a little shim to make a kerf line offset instead. but you dont do that with the marking knife and when you use the DT guide.
The reason is that the kerf knife literally removes a width of wood (roughly a 64th of an inch), whereas a marking knife on the other hand is to give an extremely acute and accurate marking, it's then up to the woodworker to properly position the saw kerf entirely within the waste. The common mistake is putting the saw in the marking knife kerf, you must cut next to line. The kerf starter removes this "issue" if you properly offset when transferring your tails to pins, then you can just drop the saw into the kerf and saw away. Personally I go through and start each cut with a kerf I make with the 372 saw, then I go back and drop the saw into my kerfs and finish the cuts. For me it just removes the worry of accidentally sliding into my knife markings. Hope that helps clarify.
As well as being a superb craftsman, David Barron comes across as a lovely gentleman.
Hi David,
I have only recently learned of your videos from a local fine furniture maker I'm taking lessons from. I have learned more from you 2 than any other sources in the last 2-3 years. Thanks so much for sharing your skill and knowledge.
Just started cutting dovetails. Your techniques and tips have been invaluable. Project I am currently working on has 10" tall sides. Knew this alignment board would come in handy. And it did. A quick clean up from my rookie sawing and the joints went right together. Couldn't believe what a difference the alignment board made.
And with this project I had to cut pins first. Worked great.
Thanks for all your help!
Hi Daniel, the finish is Osmo Hardwax oil two coats. Most finishes will do, just apply the same number of coats on both sides to prevent uneven moisture absorbtion. All the best,
David.
David, I finally got around to making a dovetail alignment board. Wish I had done it sooner. With the board and your guides (I have two dovetail guides and the 90 degree guide) in my arsenal I have been making dovetails that fit nearly perfectly right off the saw. Thanks as always!
So true, I love his DT guide :)
I first like to say,thank you for all of the videos that you post ,i find them vary helpful. I enjoyed watching this one and now off to my shop and start on my dovetail jig. Thanks...
I appreciated seeing you in America in May at the Handworks show in Iowa 2017.
Or for stability you could always use ply wood or mdf (if you don't have a nice quarter sawn timber) but of course it's not going to be so pretty and classy 😊👌🏻 thanks David!
You should make more video you are a valuable resource for the woodworking 🌎
Your producers are exactly like mine. Your skill is exemplary. No matter how hard i try, my dovetails look like crap.
David ,Also I bought the Benchcraft Moxon vise on your advise and it works perfect for me .Thanks.{you should get commissions on that}
Hi Stephen, I'm glad it works well for you and I'm glad to promote any good tools.
Excellent tutorial as usual, thank you Dave.
Just found this. What a clever and simple idea. Thanks for showing us how.
Also just found this. The glue is drying on my non-dovetailed version right now!
David - very informative (as usual) and well presented.
Extremely clear and useful. Thank you.
This fellows stuff is Gold!
Cupping happens because the wood moves along the grain, and one side expands/contracts more than the other. Quarter-sawn boards will change slightly in thickness since the grain goes vertically as seen from its end as a board lays flat, but since the over-all thickness along the direction of movement is so small, it is a much more stable board over-all.
Thank you and very well explained, I use quarter sawn timber a lot for just this reason.
davidbarronwoodwork I made my alignment board from quarter-sawn oak. It works great. Thank you for the great idea and video. I really like the magnetic dovetail saw guide. My first joints using these two helpers fit perfectly.
Hi David,
I have only recently discovered your videos and I want to thank you for helping me get started. You are VERY good.
Would you explain why both boards are as long as they are?
I'm not understanding why the board that is held in your Moxon vise is as long as the surface board.
I'm just trying to get it to all make sense for me.
Thank you
Ilove watching your work you are careful thank you.
The marking gauge is one I make and sell, please see my website. All the best, David.
Gorgeous fitment. Question, why are the pins so much smaller than the tails? Is there a structural advantage over having a really close similarity in size between the pins and tails, or is it just for the beauty of the joint? Would the joint be any stronger with say central measurements being equal?
David, love your videos. What type of finish do you put on this project?
Brilliant!
David your a natural at teaching. Are there any distributors in the US for your cutting guide?
Hi Stephen, Everything ships from the Uk, if you let me know what you are interested in I'll give you a price with shipping.
Great video. Thank you!
Hello David. Great idea. Could you tell me what kind of marking gauge are you using?
Great idea(this one I understood first time round)...rr
Do you have any DVD which explains how to flatten and square a timber?
Very nice...
Hi David, I know it may be considered as sacrilege, but would it be OK to make the dovetail guide board with birch plywood?
Hi George, It would be absolutely fine as long as it's accurate. All the best, David.
I have always had a hard time making dovetails. You make it look easy, but it is not. I would have liked to see when you marked the 2nd board, but your hand was in the way. Its the part I have a hard time with it seems. I always seem to leave gaps. Its frustrating.
Hi David. do you think you could talk about why you use the knife cutter to mark the lines? I saw a video of yours where you added a little shim to make a kerf line offset instead. but you dont do that with the marking knife and when you use the DT guide.
The reason is that the kerf knife literally removes a width of wood (roughly a 64th of an inch), whereas a marking knife on the other hand is to give an extremely acute and accurate marking, it's then up to the woodworker to properly position the saw kerf entirely within the waste. The common mistake is putting the saw in the marking knife kerf, you must cut next to line. The kerf starter removes this "issue" if you properly offset when transferring your tails to pins, then you can just drop the saw into the kerf and saw away. Personally I go through and start each cut with a kerf I make with the 372 saw, then I go back and drop the saw into my kerfs and finish the cuts. For me it just removes the worry of accidentally sliding into my knife markings. Hope that helps clarify.
Benjamin Knight
@@benjaminknight9275 Thank you for this.
What happens when that saw eventually goes blunt? Can you sharpen it or do you buy another one?
+Sabbyne Lewis Hi Sabbyne, The blades are not resharpen-able but new blades can be bought for about half the price of a new one. All the best, David.
what is that marking gauge you have?
Hi david, what would be your opinion on making it out of phenolic plywood or mdf for flatness?
+Matthew King That would be fine just as long as it's square. Not sure dovetails would work though! All the best, David.
Where can i buy magnetic dovetail jig?
www.highlandwoodworking.com/david-barron-magnetic-dovetail-saw-guide.aspx
many thanks