Fascinating. David, watching quite a few of your videos about dovetailing is so much more useful than any single how-to video. Thanks for all the useful content!
I’m liking that effect. I’ll be doing that on a project soon. I’d be very worried about separating the two pieces for gluing for fear of breaking the pins. Great vids.
I've read down through the comments here, after watching yet another of your excellent videos, and want to echo the respect and a certian "awe" for your nonchalantly displayed craftsmanship! My father was a carpenter, and had a shop at home where I cut my teeth in. However, his abilities were limited, so from that, I know superior skill and craftsmanship when I see it! I can only hope to be as good some day, and I doubt I could do it with such offhand verve in front of a camera!! Thanks!
Thanks for your comments. The chisels are made by Barr Quarton in the US, they are fine tools. The saw is by Gyochocho and can be bought from Hida Tools. The blade can be retracted by tapping the rear, it doesn't matter that it's rounded. The only thing to remember is that the wedge needs to be tightened as retracting the blade loosens it slightly. All the best, David.
David, Very inspiring to see your video's. So much so that I am digging out all the woodworking tools of my grandfather, and I am going to give this dovetail joint a try. The precision you (not your tools) are showing here is not easy. I am pretty sure it is one of those things that only looks easy after you a master at it, and it gets easier and they look better the more and more you do. Honestly, I just appreciate seeing how they 'should' look. Great job, and appreciate the video. -IB
Hi Andy, The wood I use for my alignment boards is standard wood yard 'mahogany', I believe they use it for window boards. I always select quarter sawn boards for stability. All the best, David.
Hi Dave, Thanks for your comments, with a bit of practice you'll get there. I can assure you woodworking is a lot easier than acting!! All the best, David.
When you become aware that you are watching a master craftsman, you'll notice the care and precision of all movements, but with a surety and speed you would think that couldn't be done.
Wonderful! I really enjoyed the video. I'd really like a video tour of your workshop. I really like the relaxed atmosphere and the beautiful things I see in the background. -Tom
Hi Tino, I've never done a secret mitre dovetail, there are a few ways of making mitres just as strong and a lot faster too! Splines, keys, dominoes etc. This may not satisfy the purist but try to get someone to pay a heavy premium for something that can't be seen. David Charleswoth did a very nice article for those with the time to try it. All the best, David.
Spectacular craftsmanship, Hi Def quality video. I wonder what are the brands of your chisel and Japanese saw? Also, I saw a video of your wooden Jack plane that you smooth, cut edges and shooting board use, I wonder how you retrieve the blade since it's "rounded" rear kind of makes it hard where to hit it.
Is there any point to glueing up a tight fitting joint like that? It seems like it would be just as well to just knock it together and not risk getting glue running all over your nice project.
Hi I only use a small amount of glue and the inside has been finished and waxed so the glue pops off. But you are right it would be fine without any glue. All the best, David.
That joint was tight! I ground my teeth as David put the stick to those pin and tail boards! But no splits! Yahoo! I am lucky in that I got some orig. Chipendale chests from my family estate. The orig. glue is virtually gone but the dovetail joints are still going strong. Over 200 years old and still working! Lets see modern, mass produced furniture held together by pocket screws perform as well! You get what you pay for. Custom fine furniture has a really warm and fuzzy feeling about it. Just delicious to see and feel and smell!
I just LOVE your magnetic dovetail gauge. What a clever idea! Does the blue dot mean anything? I know that the houndstooth is an english creation. Where was it usually used? I have a few original chipendale chests and I have never found anything like that used in them. I think they look absolutely FAB but not sure if they are valid on reproductions.
Arnold Emch Thank you. The blue dot on both pieces is just to make sure I mark them and out them together correctly. I'm not sure about the origins, the only time I have seen them on old pieces is on the tail vices of work benches. All the best, David.
davidbarronwoodwork Many years ago, I learned how to "unroll" a drawer. Lay out all four parts end to end one thru four. Then draw a half circle across each intersection of two parts with quarter circles at the ends. Begin numbering 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4,4, 1. Real easy to mark up and you automatically know which end belongs to which end, up from down and it forces you to automatically work in pairs. Esp. good if you use a Leigh D4 jig. I sometimes use this to quickly/cheaply slam tails finished in a hurry. I know! The hand cuts are for the good stuff! The darn D4 can really mess you up as there is no such thing as true symmetry with this contraption! Unrolling is the only *SANE* way to keep track of your work.
Fascinating. David, watching quite a few of your videos about dovetailing is so much more useful than any single how-to video. Thanks for all the useful content!
I’m liking that effect. I’ll be doing that on a project soon. I’d be very worried about separating the two pieces for gluing for fear of breaking the pins. Great vids.
I've read down through the comments here, after watching yet another of your excellent videos, and want to echo the respect and a certian "awe" for your nonchalantly displayed craftsmanship! My father was a carpenter, and had a shop at home where I cut my teeth in. However, his abilities were limited, so from that, I know superior skill and craftsmanship when I see it! I can only hope to be as good some day, and I doubt I could do it with such offhand verve in front of a camera!! Thanks!
Thanks for your comments. The chisels are made by Barr Quarton in the US, they are fine tools. The saw is by Gyochocho and can be bought from Hida Tools. The blade can be retracted by tapping the rear, it doesn't matter that it's rounded. The only thing to remember is that the wedge needs to be tightened as retracting the blade loosens it slightly. All the best, David.
David,
Very inspiring to see your video's. So much so that I am digging out all the woodworking tools of my grandfather, and I am going to give this dovetail joint a try. The precision you (not your tools) are showing here is not easy. I am pretty sure it is one of those things that only looks easy after you a master at it, and it gets easier and they look better the more and more you do. Honestly, I just appreciate seeing how they 'should' look. Great job, and appreciate the video. -IB
Hi Andy, The wood I use for my alignment boards is standard wood yard 'mahogany', I believe they use it for window boards. I always select quarter sawn boards for stability. All the best, David.
Hi Dave, Thanks for your comments, with a bit of practice you'll get there. I can assure you woodworking is a lot easier than acting!!
All the best, David.
When you become aware that you are watching a master craftsman, you'll notice the care and precision of all movements, but with a surety and speed you would think that couldn't be done.
I love these hounds tooth dovetales you make it look easy.
Wonderful! I really enjoyed the video. I'd really like a video tour of your workshop. I really like the relaxed atmosphere and the beautiful things I see in the background. -Tom
Hi Tino, I've never done a secret mitre dovetail, there are a few ways of making mitres just as strong and a lot faster too! Splines, keys, dominoes etc. This may not satisfy the purist but try to get someone to pay a heavy premium for something that can't be seen. David Charleswoth did a very nice article for those with the time to try it.
All the best, David.
Hi Ian, thanks for your comments, good luck with your dovetails, I hope your grandfather kept his tools sharp! All the best, David.
make sure we concentrate, I liked that bit. what I don't like is making a cock up of my dovetails
Love your work
Very nice! I really like your technique and process. I bet you would appriciate a shorter chisel for paring back the short pins.
Thank you! The Barr chisels are longer than most but still nicely balanced even for such delicate work.
Yes it's so easily done!!
I would most likely never use it, but I desperately need a magnetic dovetail guide.
I hope you’ve got one by now!
His arms... so huge.
Spectacular craftsmanship, Hi Def quality video. I wonder what are the brands of your chisel and Japanese saw? Also, I saw a video of your wooden Jack plane that you smooth, cut edges and shooting board use, I wonder how you retrieve the blade since it's "rounded" rear kind of makes it hard where to hit it.
Do you mean that the smaller dovetails are 60/65% of the larger ones so slightly larger than half their size?
except for your chisels and coping saw, you prefer your other tools to be tiny? ;)
What's the brand name of your marking gauges?
Hi David
Can you please tell us what marking/cutting gauge you are using? It looks neat!
Excellent set of video tutorials. Thank you.
hello and thank you for a nice video showing how to. What wood was used for the demonstration? andy
Hi David, could you please do a video on how to make the ''secret mitre dovetails'' by hand?
thank you ")
Tino from Canada
You don't even need glue with that joint!
Is there any point to glueing up a tight fitting joint like that? It seems like it would be just as well to just knock it together and not risk getting glue running all over your nice project.
Hi I only use a small amount of glue and the inside has been finished and waxed so the glue pops off. But you are right it would be fine without any glue. All the best, David.
That joint was tight! I ground my teeth as David put the stick to those pin and tail boards! But no splits! Yahoo! I am lucky in that I got some orig. Chipendale chests from my family estate. The orig. glue is virtually gone but the dovetail joints are still going strong. Over 200 years old and still working! Lets see modern, mass produced furniture held together by pocket screws perform as well! You get what you pay for. Custom fine furniture has a really warm and fuzzy feeling about it. Just delicious to see and feel and smell!
I just LOVE your magnetic dovetail gauge. What a clever idea! Does the blue dot mean anything? I know that the houndstooth is an english creation. Where was it usually used? I have a few original chipendale chests and I have never found anything like that used in them. I think they look absolutely FAB but not sure if they are valid on reproductions.
Arnold Emch Thank you. The blue dot on both pieces is just to make sure I mark them and out them together correctly. I'm not sure about the origins, the only time I have seen them on old pieces is on the tail vices of work benches. All the best, David.
davidbarronwoodwork Many years ago, I learned how to "unroll" a drawer. Lay out all four parts end to end one thru four. Then draw a half circle across each intersection of two parts with quarter circles at the ends. Begin numbering 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4,4, 1. Real easy to mark up and you automatically know which end belongs to which end, up from down and it forces you to automatically work in pairs. Esp. good if you use a Leigh D4 jig. I sometimes use this to quickly/cheaply slam tails finished in a hurry. I know! The hand cuts are for the good stuff! The darn D4 can really mess you up as there is no such thing as true symmetry with this contraption! Unrolling is the only *SANE* way to keep track of your work.
Arnold Emch I've seen the quarter round marks on drawer parts in the past. That sounds like a great method. All the best, David.
真棒
I had to watch, you have the same name as me
splashlog01 It's a small world! All the best David.
If it doesn't fit... Get a bigger hammer
PRO....
hi david from colin great videos