There's something that's been irking me for a while (and I promise I'm not intentionally trying to be a troll), but the shots of Jake in these videos always seem underexposed to me. Looking at the waveform of this video in Premiere, if I put a mask on his face so that it's the only thing on the waveform, it looks like his face is hitting around ~50 IRE. Doing a simple exposure increase in Lumetri to bring his face closer to 70 IRE looks MUCH better to me. I'm sure you already know that conventional wisdom is that someone with Jake's skin tone should be exposed somewhere closer to 70. Granted, I know there's not necessarily such a thing as a strictly "correct" exposure, but try it out, it looks much better to me at least. I figured I'd bring this up especially on a video about lighting. Again, sorry for bringing this up in typical UA-cam comment fashion, I'll be returning to my dungeon now.
Lowel Tota light in impact Softbox as key and fill or key and background. 1 tota as key will foamcore as fill, the second on the background with color and pattern add by gels and cine foil.
Current light setup is an Elgato Key Light Air (as the key light) and Aputure MC as a fill. I really want to up my lighting game, but am rather constrained by space. I also want to pick up some more lights for a green screen. You know, for those times I just don't want to display my rather boring background... or when I want to key it out for gaming. Primarily, I want something that's easy to setup/tear down and does not take up too much space when in use or when being stored. What would you suggest as either a kit, or individual components? I was considering a couple more MC to use as practicals around the space for a bit of color perhaps, but those probably won't work to light up a green screen. The green screen I have is one of those "folds down into a circle" popup things that ends up being like 5x7 when deployed. As for a camera, I'm using a Panasonic G9, typically with the PL 12-60 f/2.8-4 lens. When streaming, it goes through a Magewell HDMI+ card.
*My Desk Placement is almost the same except I'm facing the Window so I have shaded for that but I use an Elgato Key Light Air which I have set to my right facing me at a 45 degree angle but my fill Light I use is just a Lamp that I have an LIFX bulb just sitting to my Left but I have some RGB Lights on my shelve in the background and that's all.*
In the theatre I learned to light each area with four lights. The primary lights were at 90 degrees up from my subject and elevated 45 degrees relative. For better fill we use a keylight which is set up 90 degrees and basically dead on the subject. A backlight (usually tinted a shade of blue for better separation) completes the setup. I find your use of 3 lights better for those on a budget, but disagree with the placement and emphasis.
Theater "stage" lighting most often uses 4 or more light sources because it provides even lighting all the way around the subject. Since viewers will see the subject from multiple angles and elevations. The subjects are easier to be seen in the 3 dimensions since it's meant for in person viewing and don't need shadows nearly as much. Three position "UA-cam" lighting is used to creates specific shadows on the subjects face and a more appealing 3 dimensional image to the viewer from one position on a 2 dimensional screen. Both serve their purpose very well but are intended for two very different purposes.
Great video thank you. Would your computer monitor that you have in frame be considered a Practical Light? I love learning about lighthing. Thanks well presented and even I understood. Thanks for detailed description too, as they are great and well appreciated. Will check out your linked products. Thanks.
Can you please answer my questions My question is Tony northrup said that in apsc camera aperture and focal length is 1.5 times in Nikon camera compare to full frame camera for focal length it is true but I'm not sure for aperture Example focal length in apsc camera is 15mm for full frame this is 10mm ( 10×1.5 = 15 ) For aperture in apsc camera is f2.8 this is equal to full frame f4.2 ( 2.8×1.5 = 4.2)
Both. This is a strange fact that a lot of people get wrong. But because of these changes you also change the distance of the camera to the subject which also changes the light going into the camera.
@@DouglasEKnappMSAOM you are also wrong. It will change the aperture in terms of blur since you need to get further from the subject to frame the same way as a FF camera but the Tstops DO NOT Change.
@@shaolin95 Most people that learned on a FF camera expect a 1.6 or so f-stop to give a lot of blur to the background but if you have a very small camera, say in a cell phone you will not have that blur thus the apparent F-stop does change.
Hi, let me just clarify the confusion with simple laws of physics. APS-C sensors have a smaller area than the full frame sensors, so the lens have to project the same amount of light coming from a distant object on a smaller plane of sensor. By doing so, the DEPTH OF FIELD of the focal plane increases. It means that the depth of field we get on an APS-C sensor at f/2.8 aperture is equivalent to the DoF on a FF sensor at f/2.8 multiplied by the crop factor (×1.6 for Canon, 1.5x Nikon/ Sony/ Fuji) sensors. Same principle applies to the focal lengths too! However, the aperture of a lens is just the physical opening of the blades, it is same for any lens on any sensor. As I said, ultimately what matters is the light gathered by the lens and then projected on the sensor. Smaller sensor = lower amount of light gathered = DoF increases on an increased focal length. I hope you understood.
What is your current video lighting setup?
There's something that's been irking me for a while (and I promise I'm not intentionally trying to be a troll), but the shots of Jake in these videos always seem underexposed to me. Looking at the waveform of this video in Premiere, if I put a mask on his face so that it's the only thing on the waveform, it looks like his face is hitting around ~50 IRE. Doing a simple exposure increase in Lumetri to bring his face closer to 70 IRE looks MUCH better to me. I'm sure you already know that conventional wisdom is that someone with Jake's skin tone should be exposed somewhere closer to 70. Granted, I know there's not necessarily such a thing as a strictly "correct" exposure, but try it out, it looks much better to me at least. I figured I'd bring this up especially on a video about lighting. Again, sorry for bringing this up in typical UA-cam comment fashion, I'll be returning to my dungeon now.
Lowel Tota light in impact Softbox as key and fill or key and background. 1 tota as key will foamcore as fill, the second on the background with color and pattern add by gels and cine foil.
Current light setup is an Elgato Key Light Air (as the key light) and Aputure MC as a fill. I really want to up my lighting game, but am rather constrained by space. I also want to pick up some more lights for a green screen. You know, for those times I just don't want to display my rather boring background... or when I want to key it out for gaming. Primarily, I want something that's easy to setup/tear down and does not take up too much space when in use or when being stored.
What would you suggest as either a kit, or individual components? I was considering a couple more MC to use as practicals around the space for a bit of color perhaps, but those probably won't work to light up a green screen. The green screen I have is one of those "folds down into a circle" popup things that ends up being like 5x7 when deployed. As for a camera, I'm using a Panasonic G9, typically with the PL 12-60 f/2.8-4 lens. When streaming, it goes through a Magewell HDMI+ card.
I'm a fan of simplicity. 1 Rotolight Neo II and a fill card.
Thanks for the video. I use Nanlight CSA600 lights (3 in total). They work well including even on small green screens.
*My Desk Placement is almost the same except I'm facing the Window so I have shaded for that but I use an Elgato Key Light Air which I have set to my right facing me at a 45 degree angle but my fill Light I use is just a Lamp that I have an LIFX bulb just sitting to my Left but I have some RGB Lights on my shelve in the background and that's all.*
In the theatre I learned to light each area with four lights. The primary lights were at 90 degrees up from my subject and elevated 45 degrees relative. For better fill we use a keylight which is set up 90 degrees and basically dead on the subject. A backlight (usually tinted a shade of blue for better separation) completes the setup. I find your use of 3 lights better for those on a budget, but disagree with the placement and emphasis.
Theater "stage" lighting most often uses 4 or more light sources because it provides even lighting all the way around the subject. Since viewers will see the subject from multiple angles and elevations. The subjects are easier to be seen in the 3 dimensions since it's meant for in person viewing and don't need shadows nearly as much. Three position "UA-cam" lighting is used to creates specific shadows on the subjects face and a more appealing 3 dimensional image to the viewer from one position on a 2 dimensional screen. Both serve their purpose very well but are intended for two very different purposes.
Great video thank you. Would your computer monitor that you have in frame be considered a Practical Light? I love learning about lighthing. Thanks well presented and even I understood. Thanks for detailed description too, as they are great and well appreciated. Will check out your linked products. Thanks.
Yes, a computer screen's backlghting would be considered a ""practical light", but only for very closely positioned subjects. >Mark
glad to be friends from various countries
Can you please answer my questions
My question is Tony northrup said that in apsc camera aperture and focal length is 1.5 times in Nikon camera compare to full frame camera for focal length it is true but I'm not sure for aperture
Example focal length in apsc camera is 15mm for full frame this is 10mm ( 10×1.5 = 15 )
For aperture in apsc camera is f2.8 this is equal to full frame f4.2 ( 2.8×1.5 = 4.2)
Both. This is a strange fact that a lot of people get wrong. But because of these changes you also change the distance of the camera to the subject which also changes the light going into the camera.
@@DouglasEKnappMSAOM you are also wrong. It will change the aperture in terms of blur since you need to get further from the subject to frame the same way as a FF camera but the Tstops DO NOT Change.
@@shaolin95 Most people that learned on a FF camera expect a 1.6 or so f-stop to give a lot of blur to the background but if you have a very small camera, say in a cell phone you will not have that blur thus the apparent F-stop does change.
Hi, let me just clarify the confusion with simple laws of physics. APS-C sensors have a smaller area than the full frame sensors, so the lens have to project the same amount of light coming from a distant object on a smaller plane of sensor. By doing so, the DEPTH OF FIELD of the focal plane increases. It means that the depth of field we get on an APS-C sensor at f/2.8 aperture is equivalent to the DoF on a FF sensor at f/2.8 multiplied by the crop factor (×1.6 for Canon, 1.5x Nikon/ Sony/ Fuji) sensors. Same principle applies to the focal lengths too! However, the aperture of a lens is just the physical opening of the blades, it is same for any lens on any sensor. As I said, ultimately what matters is the light gathered by the lens and then projected on the sensor. Smaller sensor = lower amount of light gathered = DoF increases on an increased focal length. I hope you understood.
@@framed-tales thank you
I can't able to purchase lights sir , can u plz sagest , how can I make a vedio in a room
Please e-mail us so we can learn all of your shooting details and budget range: askbh@bandh.com >Mark
You still remain with a small shadow under your chin. Is this normal??
Would a fish tank make a good practical light?
Title says 3 point lighting tutorial and the guy uses 2 lights. And they´re placed wrongly.