Hey did the install the exact way you did. It work well for about 2 months and 1 day it shut off and won't play any more music. Amp turns on and all my speaker work fine except my subs
I will be doing a complete Kicker install on my 2016 Outlander ES. The install will include: CABLES: *Kicker 46PKD1 1/0AWG Dual Amp Wiring Kit. SPEAKERS: *2x Kicker KS Component (Front Doors, 4ohm, 125w RMS) *2x Kicker KS Coaxial (Rear Doors, 4ohm, 100w RMS) SUBS: *2x Kicker Comp R 12" Subwoofers in original Kicker Ported Box (factory connected in parallel, which has one connector at 2ohm, 500w each speaker, 1000w RMS total) AMPS: *Kicker CXA360.4 (Bridged into two parallel channels at 2ohms to be able to produce 180w per channel, one channel for front speakers and the other channel for the rear speakers. *Kicker CXA1200.1 (This will be the powerplant for the Kicker Subwoofers. It's a little bit more power than needed, but I rather do more and bring the gain down, than less and overheat the amp). ACCESORIES: *2x Kicker LOC: To be able to convert the high output of the headunit's front and rear speaker cables low output RCA; *Kicker RCA Cable. 2 channels. One pair for the front signal, the other one for the rear signal. *Kicker RCA Y Cable: This will be used to multiply the rear rca cables into 4 rcas. Two of those split RCAs will be used for the rear connection of the 360 amp, the other two will be used for the 1200 amp. That way, the front speakers work independently, and the rear speakers will be the one controlling the audio signal to the subwoofer. It would have been ideal if the head unit had a dedicated subwoofer rca output, but that is not the case and I am not going to buy an expensive head unit. *SpeedCable (a.k.a 9 Connector cable): This is to send the audio signal from the 360 amp to the back of the headunit where the door speaker wires will be. At the same time, the 9th cable is for the remote turn on.. that signal will come from the fuse box at the dashboard to the 360 amp, and then it will be bridged to the 1200 amp as well so that both turn on when the ignition switch is on. EXTRA: I am designing and I will be 3D Printing a mounting system for the CXA amplifiers where I will be able to bolt each amp onto the floor of my car, and leave space underneath for 2x PWM fans to be controller by a PWM driver using temperature sensors. If the amps get hot, the fans will turn on automatically and they will increase the speed accordingly. If everything goes well, I might sell this setup for a profit. Needless to say I will be using ferrules and shrink tape for a clean installation. Wish me luck in this crazy endeavor :)
Stage 1 (Door Speakers) Installed yesterday 5/19/2023. Stage 2 (Wiring Kit) next... Stage 3 (Amplifiers) to follow. For those interested in the speaker wire color for the 2016 Outlander with the base radio. Here it is: Front Left: Pink (+) Blue (-) Front Right: Pink (+) Blue (-) Rear Left: Brown (+) Blue (-) Rear Right: Brown (+) Blue (-) As you can see, blue is negative for all 4 speakers.. and the rear positives are brown, the front positives are pink.
Have a pair of Rockford P1s and a massive audio amp I pulled from my Cruze at trade in. Have been debating on installing in my 18 outlander. I think you just sold me on it 🥴
Did an amp/box install at my shop. Customer states bass cuts off over 40 on the volume. Max vol on this car is 45. Does the oem radio cut out the bass after a certain volume like the oem dodge stuff does? Tried multiple amps, new subs and redid power and ground.
Cut off or roll off? Cuts off sounds like an issue with the amp / sub / distortion. roll off would be from the factory radio. If there is rolloff, you can fix it with an LC2i / lC2i Pro. Cutting out is an issue with the install.
This looks nice and clean. Great job. I have the same model car. Looking to upgrade the speakers as well. When i run a mutimeter accross the rear right speaker wires (brown and blue) it shows a posive reading on the brown. How did you know the blue was positive in this case? Do you have a wiring diagram you can share? The left door also has blue and brown. But on on left door, the blue shows positve.
for that much work , they could have bought an all in one box , from JL , and routed the power , and not have to splice and drill holes , and why use the back right speaker as an input , when you adjust the sound for the rear , it will change the sound of the sub , the factory radio has a LAC on the back with rca outputs standard , looks clean , just overboard on the install , looks nice though
I literally did this exact same way to the tee and my sub only works when I open the passenger front door don’t think those are the right wires on a 2019 outlander sel base sound system does anyone know what my problem is and how I can fix also I tapped into my fuse box like this added the circuit to my 15 amp stereo fuse and my amp wouldn’t shut off why? Plz help me!!! 😅
Generally ANC is the culprit in that situation, but the outlander doesn't have that as an option. I'd verify your connections and equipment, sound like an electrical issue.
We used a test tone and polarity checker to determine the phase of the speaker so I know what is positive and negative. No diagram was needed since we do the research ourselves.
Parts used linked in the description of the video!
Hey did the install the exact way you did. It work well for about 2 months and 1 day it shut off and won't play any more music. Amp turns on and all my speaker work fine except my subs
I will be doing a complete Kicker install on my 2016 Outlander ES. The install will include:
CABLES:
*Kicker 46PKD1 1/0AWG Dual Amp Wiring Kit.
SPEAKERS:
*2x Kicker KS Component (Front Doors, 4ohm, 125w RMS)
*2x Kicker KS Coaxial (Rear Doors, 4ohm, 100w RMS)
SUBS:
*2x Kicker Comp R 12" Subwoofers in original Kicker Ported Box (factory connected in parallel, which has one connector at 2ohm, 500w each speaker, 1000w RMS total)
AMPS:
*Kicker CXA360.4 (Bridged into two parallel channels at 2ohms to be able to produce 180w per channel, one channel for front speakers and the other channel for the rear speakers.
*Kicker CXA1200.1 (This will be the powerplant for the Kicker Subwoofers. It's a little bit more power than needed, but I rather do more and bring the gain down, than less and overheat the amp).
ACCESORIES:
*2x Kicker LOC: To be able to convert the high output of the headunit's front and rear speaker cables low output RCA;
*Kicker RCA Cable. 2 channels. One pair for the front signal, the other one for the rear signal.
*Kicker RCA Y Cable: This will be used to multiply the rear rca cables into 4 rcas. Two of those split RCAs will be used for the rear connection of the 360 amp, the other two will be used for the 1200 amp. That way, the front speakers work independently, and the rear speakers will be the one controlling the audio signal to the subwoofer. It would have been ideal if the head unit had a dedicated subwoofer rca output, but that is not the case and I am not going to buy an expensive head unit.
*SpeedCable (a.k.a 9 Connector cable): This is to send the audio signal from the 360 amp to the back of the headunit where the door speaker wires will be. At the same time, the 9th cable is for the remote turn on.. that signal will come from the fuse box at the dashboard to the 360 amp, and then it will be bridged to the 1200 amp as well so that both turn on when the ignition switch is on.
EXTRA:
I am designing and I will be 3D Printing a mounting system for the CXA amplifiers where I will be able to bolt each amp onto the floor of my car, and leave space underneath for 2x PWM fans to be controller by a PWM driver using temperature sensors. If the amps get hot, the fans will turn on automatically and they will increase the speed accordingly. If everything goes well, I might sell this setup for a profit.
Needless to say I will be using ferrules and shrink tape for a clean installation.
Wish me luck in this crazy endeavor :)
Stage 1 (Door Speakers) Installed yesterday 5/19/2023.
Stage 2 (Wiring Kit) next...
Stage 3 (Amplifiers) to follow.
For those interested in the speaker wire color for the 2016 Outlander with the base radio. Here it is:
Front Left: Pink (+) Blue (-)
Front Right: Pink (+) Blue (-)
Rear Left: Brown (+) Blue (-)
Rear Right: Brown (+) Blue (-)
As you can see, blue is negative for all 4 speakers.. and the rear positives are brown, the front positives are pink.
i have a 2015 outlander i just want to add amp and sub into i have the GT with Nav
Have a pair of Rockford P1s and a massive audio amp I pulled from my Cruze at trade in. Have been debating on installing in my 18 outlander. I think you just sold me on it 🥴
Excellent!
Hi, have you been able to do it yet?
Hey. Do you know where is factory grounding for sub in mitsubishi outlander sport?
Do you think the wires that you tapped into for the line output converter would ebe the same for a 2011 mitsubishi outlander sport ?
You ever hook subs up yet have a 2011 as well, if so what aftermarket head unit u go with
@AA-RON I did , but I did not go with a aftermarket head unit bit instead used a line out converter off of my drivers rear speaker and did it that way
Are the wire colors the same for 2023 model?
How about the ACC wire? it will be connected to? Thank you
Did an amp/box install at my shop. Customer states bass cuts off over 40 on the volume. Max vol on this car is 45. Does the oem radio cut out the bass after a certain volume like the oem dodge stuff does? Tried multiple amps, new subs and redid power and ground.
Cut off or roll off? Cuts off sounds like an issue with the amp / sub / distortion. roll off would be from the factory radio. If there is rolloff, you can fix it with an LC2i / lC2i Pro. Cutting out is an issue with the install.
From my measurements, the radio begins distorting over 36 on the volume.
This looks nice and clean. Great job. I have the same model car. Looking to upgrade the speakers as well. When i run a mutimeter accross the rear right speaker wires (brown and blue) it shows a posive reading on the brown. How did you know the blue was positive in this case? Do you have a wiring diagram you can share? The left door also has blue and brown. But on on left door, the blue shows positve.
My Outlander 2018 ES , left door rear side BRN became Pink ( + ) and WHT became Black ( - ) all this wire is on the columm.
Did you ground the loc?
Obrigado por seu vídeo. Ajudou-me a instalar uma caixa de sub na minha outlander.
for that much work , they could have bought an all in one box , from JL , and routed the power , and not have to splice and drill holes , and why use the back right speaker as an input , when you adjust the sound for the rear , it will change the sound of the sub , the factory radio has a LAC on the back with rca outputs standard , looks clean , just overboard on the install , looks nice though
Thanks this video helped a lot
I literally did this exact same way to the tee and my sub only works when I open the passenger front door don’t think those are the right wires on a 2019 outlander sel base sound system does anyone know what my problem is and how I can fix also I tapped into my fuse box like this added the circuit to my 15 amp stereo fuse and my amp wouldn’t shut off why? Plz help me!!! 😅
Generally ANC is the culprit in that situation, but the outlander doesn't have that as an option. I'd verify your connections and equipment, sound like an electrical issue.
Can you do this same thing to a 2022 outlander ?
Yes, same technique.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks 🙏🏼
Any idea if this is the same for 2016
Yes, it is.
where did u find your wiring diagram for the speaker wire color. im working on a 22 outlander and cant find anything on it
We used a test tone and polarity checker to determine the phase of the speaker so I know what is positive and negative. No diagram was needed since we do the research ourselves.
That didn’t really help it’s not the same
Specially for guys that wanna learn and do it themselves instead of paying a large amount for this to be done
Just pop off the door panels and see what the colors are what. Once you tap them take a multi meter to it and see what your looking at.
@@nickdiezel5606 how can you tell ?
What’s the link to the fuse part???
In the description!
U guys based in Utah
Yes!
Never seen a covered battery. Guess I'm finally legit ole skool