Racing for the first time ever this Saturday, and my local track is running Associated SR10 on a Dirt Oval. Sat down with a notepad watching your video. Thanks a bunch for sharing all of this. Excellent for a beginner like myself. :)
@TheCyverOcelot, I greatly appreciate the support and kind words. Thats the exact reason I started this channel, to help those just starting in the hobby to have a place to find help and entertainment. Best of luck to you in all your RC adventures!
Really well done information video. Makes me want to get one. I've been racing rc cars and trucks since 1986. I ran a Associated RC10 on a scale 1/4 dirt Oval I have VHS recordings of me winning the 2wd modified season champion for 1987. Man how time flies.
@@jbtricklerc and where again do you guys all race at are there a few different tracks around your area? That's the problem with where I'm at, I'm in North Eastern Oregon and there's not much around here I would probably have to go to Portland or Seattle or Boise Idaho Maybe. But anyway that's what I was wondering is where this kind of racing was most popular I'm sure they have some in the Dallas-Fort Worth area where I'm originally from but I haven't been back there in a few years. But I guess for now I'll just keep watching your videos for now they're very entertaining and very informative.
@@cultureisnotyourfriend3458 thank you I greatly appreciate it. I'm from the upstate of South Carolina. I have 3 tracks near me ranging from 15 mins away to and hour away. I also have several more within 3 he drives. I'll be bringing several new track to the channel this year. Looking forward to expanding and visiting tracks I've never been to or just haven't been able to attend in a long while. I'm definitely fortunate with the number of tracks around me. I recommend searching facebook for RC tracks around you. You may be surprised to find some closer than you think. Many or I'd even say most have Facebook pages instead of websites these days. I do hope you can find some and get back at it. I appreciate your kind words and support.
I watched the first 3min of this video... and can't wait to watch the rest of it!! I've been racing RC since 1989 - but I appreciate doting the I's and crossing the T's - explaining everything in very' detailed/direct/complete description! I look forward to watching more of your setp-up/RC videos too! Kudo's JB!
I've never raced these dirt oval rc's but have always only bashed mt's for about ten years or so. I HAVE however raced outlaw carts, 500cc for almost twenty years now and everything you've hit on in this vid 100% translates to cart racing! Think I'll be getting one of these asap!
adit Addicts I greatly appreciate the support and comment. Absolutely, people don't realize how much RC car racing translates from other or to other actual racing practices. It's all in the tuning. Horsepower only translates so far. Gotta have a good setup as well.
@@jbtricklerc Damn straight! Hp is great but if you don't have a rig that can transfer that hp into speed then for lack of a better term you're just spinning your wheels lol!
Im a new watcher and subscriber. U got great videos. I live about 2 hours from easley in nc and have never heard of that shop. Been into rc my whole life, planes and cars. Gotta try some oval racing in the next couple months. Just picked up a custom works intimidator.
Awesome Jason and thanks for the Subscribe! We have 3 great dirt oval tracks in the upstate of SC. Easley, Fountain Inn and Lil Indy in Spartanburg. Some great tracks in NC as well. I plan to visit, race and film in NC and GA this year at more tracks too. Feel free to reach out to me on Facebook if I can be any help.
Something worth noting... if you're loose off the corner and you just change the RR to a softer spring your scale numbers will dramatically change. It's a good idea to change both corners together. Change the RR and LF at the same time. That way your actual weight on he scale stays balanced on all 4 and ride heights wont change.
Great info Brown55061. I plan to do another more advanced setup tutorial in the future as well going over scales and more. I didn't mention/go over scales in this episode as it was a more basic tuning guide for beginners.
Thanks so much for information! Just getting into oval racing and that helped a bunch. Also downloaded the MurfDogg racing chassis tuning to keep on hand.
Awesome to hear Anthony Mccarty! And thank you for the support. I always greatly appreciate hearing from people and knowing someone found some help with my videos! Best of luck in your RC Racing Adventures!
Thanks for doing this video. I recently started racing dirt oval. You hit some points I haven't learned at the track. I made the a-main last week,(for my first time) and,finished 5th in the novice class. Hopefully this week I can finish a lil better. Thanks again! I really dig your channel I'll be in the southport area in a few weeks,(my daughter is having a baby) would love to run a track with ya. Thanks again!
Thank you for the support Al I greatly appreciate it! I'm happy you are finding the channel helpful and entertaining. Congrats on the A-main qual as well! Just keep going and it will get easier! Congrats on the new family member as well!
Question on Clay Track Prep, I have seen Golf cart used to Pack the Tracks, what's your thought of those type of Track Prepping. My thoughts are that the RC cars could pack the Track, like local Dirt Circle Tracks do with Sport Mod, Mods and Street Stock.
S.M. Aggies, great question and it really depends on the type of dirt oval racing you want to do or whats popular in a certain area. Here in the South East its more popular to have high bite tracks. Not as much loose dirt track racing here. The golf cart helps pack it and RC cars do the rest with the occasional between round golf cart repacking to roll water in or something similar to that. Loose dirt tracks, which generally you would see less golf cart rolling and prepping is very popular in other areas as well.
Loved the video, thanks you so very much. Am really enjoying this hobby. Basically run the Traxxas Slash Late Model and Traxxas Slash Street Stock and the Traxxas Bandit Hobbystock. Looking for more videos on the Traxxas. Thanks again.
Rod and Tami I'm happy to hear you enjoyed the videos and enjoying the channel. I really do appreciate the support. I'll have more in the future as well.
Wrecking Crew Hobbies thank you! I greatly appreciate the support and kind words. I try to put out tutorials, help as well as entertain with rave coverage episodes. Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures.
Thank you Mike I greatly appreciate that. I try to explain it the best I can especially for the new racers that may not be familiar with some of the common RC and or race terms.
I have a little more off a technical question for you. Dirt oval car, shock mounting angles. What effect on the car does the shock angle have if you stand them more straight up buy moving out on shock tower. (example moving right rear standing shock up will it tighten or loosen car on entry and exit) is the effect the same on all four corners. Second question, changing shock location on control arm. (example Right front moving out on control arm will it loosen or tighten car up on entry and affect on exit). Not after a full technical answer, more what happens with each corner if you change one, loosen or tighten car entry or exit.
Great question Bascubadiver, I plan on a future more advanced setup tutorial part 2 as well and will likely cover some of this as well as few other areas. I'll try my best to answer this without too long of a winded post. Keep in mind that the purpose of the suspension is to control the amount of weight transfer of the car. More specifically from one corner to another, front to rear etc. With different angles, shock oils and spring combinations you are basically speeding up this process or slowing it down. Which in turn can tighten and or loosen the car. There is also other variables such as on throttle steering and off throttle steering which the car can/will react differently one way vs the other due to the weight transfer. The more a shock is laid down (More horizontally) generally the softer overall the shock becomes. The more the shock stands up (More Vertically) the stiffer it is is overall. Granted, like I said before, shock oils and springs also play into this but the position characteristics mentioned above are still the same. laying down the front shocks typically gives the front of the car a bit more aggressive steering feel (more steering) and typically acts/feels more free. While a front end with shocks standing up can make the car feel more tight but less aggressive overall. On the rear generally laying the rear shock down will increase traction and if too "into the track" will feel it tighten the car. Standing them up will decrease traction creating a more loose feel. When I find the locations that work for me, I typically run them even location on the right and left side as this also helps maintain a good ride height which is also important. However, I may change a camber link location and or lengthen or shorten a shock length a bit if needed. But I go by the old RC saying of "Plant the rear, then make it steer". thank you for the comment and support!
Hi JB, I have a question about toe in the front of the car. What if you ran like 1°toe out on the left front and you ended up like Negative 3° toe in on the right front. Would that make the car more aggressive from the center of the corner off once the wheels are turned?
Great question! And I'm trying to fully wrap my head around that lol. Because if you had 1 toe out on the left front and 3 out on the right front you'd still naturally have to trim it to the left because it would want to naturally turn to the right (talking straight line here). So even though you're toed out as you said (1L and 3R) you'd end up being trimmed more like 2 and 2 if that makes sense for tracking purposes. But then you get into even more geometry issues such as servo centering, turnbuckle lengths etc. But if you consider the issue I used as an example in the straight line comparison, yeah it likely could cause aggressive behavior I. The corner. I've never broken it down and given it much thought because I usually get my car centered and tracking and then dial in the toe equally.
@jbtricklerc Actually, not 3° toed out on the right front. 3° toed in on the right front. I usually run 1° out on the left front and 0 on the right front.
@@1dirtovalracer @1dirtovalracer oh I gotcha now lol. Sorry about the misunderstanding. With toe in, especially that much, it would likely result in a very unstable/aggressive car especially in cornering. I've had it happen after slapping a outer wall during a race. Car got really unpredictable in the corners. When I checked it after the race. It had knocked the right front toe in a lot.
Aaron honestly I'm not as informative on a Sprint car. I've driven them but never owned one. I'd check with some local racers and see what they recommend. Spring rare can vary depending on track for various reasons. As for the shocks I've never ran that particular type however I'm confident there is a manufacturer out there that makes a spring kit that would work. Whether it be custom works or GFRP/Mudslide or someone similar. The biggest question to determine that would be diameter and length. Many companies offer a short and long spring version. Which I will an short springs up front and long springs in the rear of both my custom works and GFRP Late Models.
I didn't see if anyone else asked this question. Im wondering why you stopped publishing videos here. I only found the channel very recently but am enjoying it a lot. I hope everything is okay with you and yours and wondercif you plan to come back, thanks.
I greatly appreciate the support and compliment. After two years of nearly weekly uploads and racing every weekend and editing videos during each week I simply got burnt out. I've been taking an extended break to spend more time with my family. I do plan on coming back eventually. But I'm just not ready yet. Thank you very much and happy to know existing and newer subscribers are still enjoying my channel! I have much I still want to do. Just cant take the time to do it just yet.
@jbtricklerc for direct drive application cars I've been going through spur gear one even melted and I've done some adjustments and it happened again I'm just now getting back in the game I do practice but only have this one problem with my spur gear on my Intimidator 8 other than that the tips are very helpful and I haven't seen any videos on direct drive thanks
@@Mark-h1o I've actually got a 4 video series where I rebuilt a Hyperdrive-GFRP Havoc with a direct drive diff. Here is the link for the first video which has the diff rebuild tutorial. It may be working checking out the other three videos as well that can be searched for on my channel. If you're having spur stripping issues, Check that you have proper gear mesh and also make sure that the spur gear isn't hitting the chassis plate. here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/MXfe8UeZRlg/v-deo.html
nice video. i have a couple questions. my first question is you never touched on caster and kick up plates with different degrees built into them. also, when you run agressive rear toe does it make the tires wear funny?
Mike Woods I appreciate your support and comment. Great questions as well. This video was meant as a more basic tuning video to help give basic understanding to new racers. I have plans for a more advanced setting and tuning video in the future as well that will cover caster, angles, battery locations as well as more. As far as tire wear with aggressive rear toe I've not had any trouble with weird tire wear. I have seen it before but the usual factor there is wrong camber angles. There are tracks and situations where that much rear toe/rear steer is not necessary. In fact I tune that toe as needed but where I race it's usual to be aggressive like that. Thank you again for the support and comment. Best of luck in your RC racing adventures.
@@jbtricklerc I've never played with rear toe other than Factory blocks that's not adjustable unless you change out the blocks. I'm very interested in trying adjustable arms.
@@1dirtovalracer very helpful and easier way to adjust toe settings for sure. I highly recommend checking rules for all classes though. Some classes do not allow them. But, if they do, I recommend them for sure.
James I'll usually set it then Push down lightly a couple times and then check again and repeat as necessary. But thats my preference and process of course. Ive seen others do the pick up sit down method as well.
Great video! I finally tried dirt oval for the first time last weekend and am HOOKED! Building a buggy based 13.5 sprint and a lot of the setup is foreign to me (coming from off road and on road racing) and this video and that book are very good. One question about camber you gave a left side positive range of 1-2.5 so doe that transfer to the right side just negative? Great video!!
I greatly appreciate the kinds words And happy to know you found the video helpful. It's definitely a very addictive hobby. I'm looking forward to getting back to it after my break away. Your question about camber is correct as well. You may have to read the tires and find tune it but you are correct. Thank you again.
Yep I’ve been in it for almost 20 years and tried dirt oval with my youngest for the first time, shared an SR10 rookie for her and box stock for me, after the first few runs found myself in a deep discussion with her on how we were driving and what we needed to do.. hit me right in the feels… ua-cam.com/video/mZqimOy9ugI/v-deo.html
Hey man random but have a full built car chassis and all just redid it and limited it down and still trying to find sweet spot it’s a mod and super street car after the new suspension lowering it down i can’t for the life of me get it to stop spinning out!? Any tips on arm drop or travel or way to get this hookup again tacky track I’m ok but loose or not super tacky Car hates it! Dirt oval setup btw
Casey here's a couple things to look at and try: 1) with the change of suspension and lowering the ride height and center of gravity make sure it's not dragging the front or rear bulkheads. I had a friend having a similar problem and that's what was happening in the corner. He had to raise it back up just a bit. 2) On a flat surface with the power off, take off the pinion so you can roll the car easier. Manually turn the front wheels like you're entering the corner and staten them like you're exiting the corner. When you are doing this look for any potential binding while turning and rolling. Common areas would be in the steering or lower control arms. 3) add a shim or shims to the left rear or if allowed go up to a stiffer spring.
King of the USA I know what you mean. I've seen things done and made that I never would have thought of on RC cars, trucks, boats and planes. I have also modified and fabricated my own things over the years as well. It adds to the fun and it's also how many have created their own brand.
Aaron it would be a safe starting bet. Depending on track I've tuned between 9 to 13. I'm usually a bit lower in the front always. But that's me and a lot of guys have different ideas and opinions on it. I'd also talk to some of the sprint guys that race at your track.
Brian, very much so in my opinion as far as racing setup goes. The Basic setup and tuning still applies, but the two cars compared are extremely different animals. I started out on a CW Intimidator G6 then went to a 7 then went to GFRP. Both brands, and others, are very capable but all quite different.
This is awesome…Wish they sold an entry level grade pan so we can dip our toes into the sport without dropping $600 Ill prolly go with a modified Slash for oval, crash derby etc just so many grass roots po-boy style races for Traxxis Slash. Thanks for sharing
MonstroLab I greatly appreciate the comment and support! Yeah when going purpose built it can be a bit more of a setup cost. But most of these purpose built companies are from people that run machine shops with other professions that make the RC chassis kits as a side business. Some are dedicated RC manufacturers but I know some are as I said. So the cost from material and quantity will differ compared to a mass produced kit for sure. The Grass Roots style racing is very big around here as well. The Traxxas Slash is the base model for 3 dedicated classes and popular in the breakout classes around here as well. They are a blast to race for sure and a great affordable way to get into dirt oval racing. I just recently got a 10.5 Late Model that is Slash based so I'll have some updated videos coming featuring that platform in the near future as well. thank you again and best of luck in your RC adventures.
Mike glad to hear you're ready to get back to racing! I hope that means you beat cancer as well. I feel for you as I have some close family and friends that have battled as well.
Ron there is an outdoor Dirt Oval in Fountain Inn SC and another in Easley SC. Both of which gave been featured on the channel. However, unfortunately, the indoor track that was shown in the opening is no longer active.
nice , but im almost positive my car would be faster... ( but is THRUST plus wheel power considered cheating because its so much better ? ) ( JNHM RC )
Awesome Robin! I have several RC friends that have also raced Karts and even asphalt and dirt late models. Very cool to see the various backgrounds and the fact we all love RC racing.
U say Traxxas cars what if I'm running a sc6.1 in b mod and a sc5 in sc street stock. I'm not a Traxxas fan and don't have the money for a over priced cw or 5 seven design prodigy chassis. Would I use the purpose built chassis info or the Traxxas Info? I know I'm not as good as purpose built but way better then the slash as far as tunability goes. Well really in every way lol. Ae will always be better then Traxxas lol
Jeff, good question and the tuning information in this video will work for any 2wd Dirt oval car, Traxxas, buggy, purpose built etc. All this translates. The only difference is certain cars are more limited in what you can do in some of these instances. For example my GFRP car would be fully tunable in all categories where the buggy or slash may have certain areas that are in "fixed" positions meaning you cant move them without modification (which may or may not be allowed depending on rules). I ran a Associated B6.2 in dirt oval for a while as well and the same tuning applied. I still have two Traxxas Slash dirt oval cars, one is a street stock for my son, the other is a 10.5 Late Model, I use the same tuning methods as mentioned here as well. Each car whether buggy, slash, purpose built etc may have certain things it likes more or requires. But the fundamentals here are all the same. Thank you for the comment and support.
@@jbtricklerc you are welcome my friend. Thank you for the knowledgeable videos on oval racing. There is not alot unless you run mudboss and I do not. The body is uuuuugly lol. Off the subject. Just curious what diff fluid u run in your slash street stock or do you run the stock diff?
@@jeffbryner5355 No problem at all. I'm happy to help and that is what the channel is for. Helpful information, race and hobby promotion and all around fun and entertainment. I actually use between 25 to 35 shock oil in my traxxas and buggy gear diffs. Its heavy enough to not leak out quickly and light enough for a very smooth and very free diff. In my opinion the secret to RC oval gear diff building is going as light as you can that the diff can hold and not leak to get it as free as you can. I've used this method with success for years. Even if you go with actual diff fluid I recommend as light as you can. some cars/brands can hold the lighter stuff, some gear diffs leak like the Titanic. So you have to determine what it can hold and go as light as it can hold. I actually cover this in my traxxas slash and buggy speed secrets episode I uploaded a month or so ago here on the channel.
Racing for the first time ever this Saturday, and my local track is running Associated SR10 on a Dirt Oval. Sat down with a notepad watching your video. Thanks a bunch for sharing all of this. Excellent for a beginner like myself. :)
@TheCyverOcelot, I greatly appreciate the support and kind words. Thats the exact reason I started this channel, to help those just starting in the hobby to have a place to find help and entertainment. Best of luck to you in all your RC adventures!
Really well done information video. Makes me want to get one. I've been racing rc cars and trucks since 1986. I ran a Associated RC10 on a scale 1/4 dirt Oval I have VHS recordings of me winning the 2wd modified season champion for 1987. Man how time flies.
RC racer that's awesome! Get one and come on back out with us! It's definitely a blast
@@jbtricklerc and where again do you guys all race at are there a few different tracks around your area? That's the problem with where I'm at, I'm in North Eastern Oregon and there's not much around here I would probably have to go to Portland or Seattle or Boise Idaho Maybe. But anyway that's what I was wondering is where this kind of racing was most popular I'm sure they have some in the Dallas-Fort Worth area where I'm originally from but I haven't been back there in a few years. But I guess for now I'll just keep watching your videos for now they're very entertaining and very informative.
@@cultureisnotyourfriend3458 thank you I greatly appreciate it. I'm from the upstate of South Carolina. I have 3 tracks near me ranging from 15 mins away to and hour away. I also have several more within 3 he drives. I'll be bringing several new track to the channel this year. Looking forward to expanding and visiting tracks I've never been to or just haven't been able to attend in a long while. I'm definitely fortunate with the number of tracks around me. I recommend searching facebook for RC tracks around you. You may be surprised to find some closer than you think. Many or I'd even say most have Facebook pages instead of websites these days. I do hope you can find some and get back at it. I appreciate your kind words and support.
I watched the first 3min of this video... and can't wait to watch the rest of it!! I've been racing RC since 1989 - but I appreciate doting the I's and crossing the T's - explaining everything in very' detailed/direct/complete description! I look forward to watching more of your setp-up/RC videos too! Kudo's JB!
Thank you G6Wings I appreciate the kind words and support. Wanting to provide a entertaining and informative channel. So much planned for the future!
I've never raced these dirt oval rc's but have always only bashed mt's for about ten years or so. I HAVE however raced outlaw carts, 500cc for almost twenty years now and everything you've hit on in this vid 100% translates to cart racing! Think I'll be getting one of these asap!
adit Addicts I greatly appreciate the support and comment. Absolutely, people don't realize how much RC car racing translates from other or to other actual racing practices. It's all in the tuning. Horsepower only translates so far. Gotta have a good setup as well.
@@jbtricklerc Damn straight! Hp is great but if you don't have a rig that can transfer that hp into speed then for lack of a better term you're just spinning your wheels lol!
@@ADITADDICTS you got that 100% right. And unfortunately. People often don't realize that.
@@jbtricklerc All I have to say is I hope they don't if I'm racing against them! 🤣🤣🤣
Great Channel btw subscribed!
@@ADITADDICTS lol I hear ya. I greatly appreciate the support! Hope you enjoy the channel and enjoy some RC racing adventures.
Thanks for the very good information on the video !! I'm a new dirt oval racer this year !! I will be having a lot of fun racing now with all this !!
I appreciate the support and positive feedback!
Im a new watcher and subscriber. U got great videos. I live about 2 hours from easley in nc and have never heard of that shop. Been into rc my whole life, planes and cars. Gotta try some oval racing in the next couple months. Just picked up a custom works intimidator.
Awesome Jason and thanks for the Subscribe! We have 3 great dirt oval tracks in the upstate of SC. Easley, Fountain Inn and Lil Indy in Spartanburg. Some great tracks in NC as well. I plan to visit, race and film in NC and GA this year at more tracks too. Feel free to reach out to me on Facebook if I can be any help.
Something worth noting... if you're loose off the corner and you just change the RR to a softer spring your scale numbers will dramatically change. It's a good idea to change both corners together. Change the RR and LF at the same time. That way your actual weight on he scale stays balanced on all 4 and ride heights wont change.
Great info Brown55061. I plan to do another more advanced setup tutorial in the future as well going over scales and more. I didn't mention/go over scales in this episode as it was a more basic tuning guide for beginners.
Thanks so much for information! Just getting into oval racing and that helped a bunch. Also downloaded the MurfDogg racing chassis tuning to keep on hand.
Awesome to hear Anthony Mccarty! And thank you for the support. I always greatly appreciate hearing from people and knowing someone found some help with my videos! Best of luck in your RC Racing Adventures!
Thanks for doing this video. I recently started racing dirt oval. You hit some points I haven't learned at the track. I made the a-main last week,(for my first time) and,finished 5th in the novice class. Hopefully this week I can finish a lil better. Thanks again! I really dig your channel I'll be in the southport area in a few weeks,(my daughter is having a baby) would love to run a track with ya. Thanks again!
Thank you for the support Al I greatly appreciate it! I'm happy you are finding the channel helpful and entertaining. Congrats on the A-main qual as well! Just keep going and it will get easier! Congrats on the new family member as well!
Question on Clay Track Prep, I have seen Golf cart used to Pack the Tracks, what's your thought of those type of Track Prepping.
My thoughts are that the RC cars could pack the Track, like local Dirt Circle Tracks do with Sport Mod, Mods and Street Stock.
S.M. Aggies, great question and it really depends on the type of dirt oval racing you want to do or whats popular in a certain area. Here in the South East its more popular to have high bite tracks. Not as much loose dirt track racing here. The golf cart helps pack it and RC cars do the rest with the occasional between round golf cart repacking to roll water in or something similar to that. Loose dirt tracks, which generally you would see less golf cart rolling and prepping is very popular in other areas as well.
Loved the video, thanks you so very much. Am really enjoying this hobby. Basically run the Traxxas Slash Late Model and Traxxas Slash Street Stock and the Traxxas Bandit Hobbystock. Looking for more videos on the Traxxas. Thanks again.
Rod and Tami I'm happy to hear you enjoyed the videos and enjoying the channel. I really do appreciate the support. I'll have more in the future as well.
Thanks for having usable content. It was very informative and helpful.
Wrecking Crew Hobbies thank you! I greatly appreciate the support and kind words. I try to put out tutorials, help as well as entertain with rave coverage episodes. Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures.
Very good video you are Good at explaining things in detail
Thank you Mike I greatly appreciate that. I try to explain it the best I can especially for the new racers that may not be familiar with some of the common RC and or race terms.
I have a little more off a technical question for you. Dirt oval car, shock mounting angles. What effect on the car does the shock angle have if you stand them more straight up buy moving out on shock tower. (example moving right rear standing shock up will it tighten or loosen car on entry and exit) is the effect the same on all four corners. Second question, changing shock location on control arm. (example Right front moving out on control arm will it loosen or tighten car up on entry and affect on exit). Not after a full technical answer, more what happens with each corner if you change one, loosen or tighten car entry or exit.
Great question Bascubadiver, I plan on a future more advanced setup tutorial part 2 as well and will likely cover some of this as well as few other areas. I'll try my best to answer this without too long of a winded post. Keep in mind that the purpose of the suspension is to control the amount of weight transfer of the car. More specifically from one corner to another, front to rear etc. With different angles, shock oils and spring combinations you are basically speeding up this process or slowing it down. Which in turn can tighten and or loosen the car. There is also other variables such as on throttle steering and off throttle steering which the car can/will react differently one way vs the other due to the weight transfer. The more a shock is laid down (More horizontally) generally the softer overall the shock becomes. The more the shock stands up (More Vertically) the stiffer it is is overall. Granted, like I said before, shock oils and springs also play into this but the position characteristics mentioned above are still the same. laying down the front shocks typically gives the front of the car a bit more aggressive steering feel (more steering) and typically acts/feels more free. While a front end with shocks standing up can make the car feel more tight but less aggressive overall. On the rear generally laying the rear shock down will increase traction and if too "into the track" will feel it tighten the car. Standing them up will decrease traction creating a more loose feel. When I find the locations that work for me, I typically run them even location on the right and left side as this also helps maintain a good ride height which is also important. However, I may change a camber link location and or lengthen or shorten a shock length a bit if needed. But I go by the old RC saying of "Plant the rear, then make it steer". thank you for the comment and support!
Hi JB, I have a question about toe in the front of the car. What if you ran like 1°toe out on the left front and you ended up like Negative 3° toe in on the right front. Would that make the car more aggressive from the center of the corner off once the wheels are turned?
Great question! And I'm trying to fully wrap my head around that lol. Because if you had 1 toe out on the left front and 3 out on the right front you'd still naturally have to trim it to the left because it would want to naturally turn to the right (talking straight line here). So even though you're toed out as you said (1L and 3R) you'd end up being trimmed more like 2 and 2 if that makes sense for tracking purposes. But then you get into even more geometry issues such as servo centering, turnbuckle lengths etc. But if you consider the issue I used as an example in the straight line comparison, yeah it likely could cause aggressive behavior I. The corner. I've never broken it down and given it much thought because I usually get my car centered and tracking and then dial in the toe equally.
@jbtricklerc Actually, not 3° toed out on the right front. 3° toed in on the right front.
I usually run 1° out on the left front and 0 on the right front.
@@1dirtovalracer @1dirtovalracer oh I gotcha now lol. Sorry about the misunderstanding. With toe in, especially that much, it would likely result in a very unstable/aggressive car especially in cornering. I've had it happen after slapping a outer wall during a race. Car got really unpredictable in the corners. When I checked it after the race. It had knocked the right front toe in a lot.
One more thing what about spring rate? And where to get springs for a losi based sprint using tlr shock or should I go to a different shock?
Aaron honestly I'm not as informative on a Sprint car. I've driven them but never owned one. I'd check with some local racers and see what they recommend. Spring rare can vary depending on track for various reasons. As for the shocks I've never ran that particular type however I'm confident there is a manufacturer out there that makes a spring kit that would work. Whether it be custom works or GFRP/Mudslide or someone similar. The biggest question to determine that would be diameter and length. Many companies offer a short and long spring version. Which I will an short springs up front and long springs in the rear of both my custom works and GFRP Late Models.
I didn't see if anyone else asked this question. Im wondering why you stopped publishing videos here. I only found the channel very recently but am enjoying it a lot. I hope everything is okay with you and yours and wondercif you plan to come back, thanks.
I greatly appreciate the support and compliment. After two years of nearly weekly uploads and racing every weekend and editing videos during each week I simply got burnt out. I've been taking an extended break to spend more time with my family. I do plan on coming back eventually. But I'm just not ready yet. Thank you very much and happy to know existing and newer subscribers are still enjoying my channel! I have much I still want to do. Just cant take the time to do it just yet.
Great video as usual buddy!
Thank you Jake! I really appreciate it!
Can you give some information on direct drive custom works cars that's what I have would be nice to know
Hi Mark, what information are you curious about. I'm happy to help if I can.
@jbtricklerc for direct drive application cars I've been going through spur gear one even melted and I've done some adjustments and it happened again I'm just now getting back in the game I do practice but only have this one problem with my spur gear on my Intimidator 8 other than that the tips are very helpful and I haven't seen any videos on direct drive thanks
@@Mark-h1o I've actually got a 4 video series where I rebuilt a Hyperdrive-GFRP Havoc with a direct drive diff. Here is the link for the first video which has the diff rebuild tutorial. It may be working checking out the other three videos as well that can be searched for on my channel. If you're having spur stripping issues, Check that you have proper gear mesh and also make sure that the spur gear isn't hitting the chassis plate.
here is the link:
ua-cam.com/video/MXfe8UeZRlg/v-deo.html
nice video. i have a couple questions. my first question is you never touched on caster and kick up plates with different degrees built into them. also, when you run agressive rear toe does it make the tires wear funny?
Mike Woods I appreciate your support and comment. Great questions as well. This video was meant as a more basic tuning video to help give basic understanding to new racers. I have plans for a more advanced setting and tuning video in the future as well that will cover caster, angles, battery locations as well as more. As far as tire wear with aggressive rear toe I've not had any trouble with weird tire wear. I have seen it before but the usual factor there is wrong camber angles. There are tracks and situations where that much rear toe/rear steer is not necessary. In fact I tune that toe as needed but where I race it's usual to be aggressive like that. Thank you again for the support and comment. Best of luck in your RC racing adventures.
@@jbtricklerc I've never played with rear toe other than Factory blocks that's not adjustable unless you change out the blocks. I'm very interested in trying adjustable arms.
@@1dirtovalracer very helpful and easier way to adjust toe settings for sure. I highly recommend checking rules for all classes though. Some classes do not allow them. But, if they do, I recommend them for sure.
do you pick up car or push down or drop to get ride height and susp setting correct
James I'll usually set it then Push down lightly a couple times and then check again and repeat as necessary. But thats my preference and process of course. Ive seen others do the pick up sit down method as well.
Good video bro.You're sharp....
I greatly appreciate the support and comment Walter!
Great video! I finally tried dirt oval for the first time last weekend and am HOOKED! Building a buggy based 13.5 sprint and a lot of the setup is foreign to me (coming from off road and on road racing) and this video and that book are very good. One question about camber you gave a left side positive range of 1-2.5 so doe that transfer to the right side just negative? Great video!!
I greatly appreciate the kinds words And happy to know you found the video helpful. It's definitely a very addictive hobby. I'm looking forward to getting back to it after my break away. Your question about camber is correct as well. You may have to read the tires and find tune it but you are correct. Thank you again.
Yep I’ve been in it for almost 20 years and tried dirt oval with my youngest for the first time, shared an SR10 rookie for her and box stock for me, after the first few runs found myself in a deep discussion with her on how we were driving and what we needed to do.. hit me right in the feels…
ua-cam.com/video/mZqimOy9ugI/v-deo.html
@@aefanboy3464 that's awesome to hear! I hope you both get lots of enjoyment out of it as well.
Building a 13.5 sprint!!
Did you ever do a scale video? Cross weight setup needed!! 😄
Hey man random but have a full built car chassis and all just redid it and limited it down and still trying to find sweet spot it’s a mod and super street car after the new suspension lowering it down i can’t for the life of me get it to stop spinning out!? Any tips on arm drop or travel or way to get this hookup again tacky track I’m ok but loose or not super tacky Car hates it! Dirt oval setup btw
Is it spinning out/ loose on entry or exit? And what chassis platform? Traxxas?
@@jbtricklerc traxxas with erc rockstar offset 0 and it turns great in and super loose off I can’t put any power to it!
Maybe little loose in.. but really just can’t get out the turn.
Casey here's a couple things to look at and try:
1) with the change of suspension and lowering the ride height and center of gravity make sure it's not dragging the front or rear bulkheads. I had a friend having a similar problem and that's what was happening in the corner. He had to raise it back up just a bit.
2) On a flat surface with the power off, take off the pinion so you can roll the car easier. Manually turn the front wheels like you're entering the corner and staten them like you're exiting the corner. When you are doing this look for any potential binding while turning and rolling. Common areas would be in the steering or lower control arms.
3) add a shim or shims to the left rear or if allowed go up to a stiffer spring.
I see some typos I'm on a mobile device now. Hope that was helpful and legible enough. Keep me updated and best of luck in your racing adventures.
I always felt that RC Hobbyists are the most innovative people in the world, Specially these days..
King of the USA I know what you mean. I've seen things done and made that I never would have thought of on RC cars, trucks, boats and planes. I have also modified and fabricated my own things over the years as well. It adds to the fun and it's also how many have created their own brand.
@@jbtricklerc Yeahhh that is very true!! So awesome!!
Would the same ride height at 12 be the same on a sprint car?
Aaron it would be a safe starting bet. Depending on track I've tuned between 9 to 13. I'm usually a bit lower in the front always. But that's me and a lot of guys have different ideas and opinions on it. I'd also talk to some of the sprint guys that race at your track.
@@jbtricklerc awesome video as well.
Love it!
I always appreciate the feedback and glad you enjoyed it.
New to the channel great info keep up the great work 👍 thx
John Reyes thank you very much for the support! I greatly appreciate it and I hope you enjoy the channel.
Great info video
Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback
Is there much difference between GFRP and custom works ?
Brian, very much so in my opinion as far as racing setup goes. The Basic setup and tuning still applies, but the two cars compared are extremely different animals. I started out on a CW Intimidator G6 then went to a 7 then went to GFRP. Both brands, and others, are very capable but all quite different.
This is awesome…Wish they sold an entry level grade pan so we can dip our toes into the sport without dropping $600
Ill prolly go with a modified Slash for oval, crash derby etc just so many grass roots po-boy style races for Traxxis Slash. Thanks for sharing
MonstroLab I greatly appreciate the comment and support! Yeah when going purpose built it can be a bit more of a setup cost. But most of these purpose built companies are from people that run machine shops with other professions that make the RC chassis kits as a side business. Some are dedicated RC manufacturers but I know some are as I said. So the cost from material and quantity will differ compared to a mass produced kit for sure. The Grass Roots style racing is very big around here as well. The Traxxas Slash is the base model for 3 dedicated classes and popular in the breakout classes around here as well. They are a blast to race for sure and a great affordable way to get into dirt oval racing. I just recently got a 10.5 Late Model that is Slash based so I'll have some updated videos coming featuring that platform in the near future as well. thank you again and best of luck in your RC adventures.
JBTrickleRC thanks. subscribed!
@@MonstroLab I greatly appreciate that. Thank you and hope you enjoy the channel.
And I have the same car was running 17.5 before I got Cancer time to go back racing this year
Mike glad to hear you're ready to get back to racing! I hope that means you beat cancer as well. I feel for you as I have some close family and friends that have battled as well.
@@jbtricklerc Yes I am cancer free And thank you so much
@@mikeovercash3991 that's wonderful news and I'm extremely happy to hear that! Let's celebrate with some good racing!
@@jbtricklerc Have you been too little Dixie
@@mikeovercash3991 not yet but I've got a lot planned for 2021 and that's on the list.
Where is this track located?
Ron there is an outdoor Dirt Oval in Fountain Inn SC and another in Easley SC. Both of which gave been featured on the channel. However, unfortunately, the indoor track that was shown in the opening is no longer active.
This helps me alot thanks
nice , but im almost positive my car would be faster... ( but is THRUST plus wheel power considered cheating because its so much better ? )
( JNHM RC )
J-N-H-M I'm not sure I fully understand the question. But I can say that we are heavily restricted with every rule to run this class.
I'm been racing r.c. in 1989 before that I raced go-karts
Awesome Robin! I have several RC friends that have also raced Karts and even asphalt and dirt late models. Very cool to see the various backgrounds and the fact we all love RC racing.
U say Traxxas cars what if I'm running a sc6.1 in b mod and a sc5 in sc street stock. I'm not a Traxxas fan and don't have the money for a over priced cw or 5 seven design prodigy chassis. Would I use the purpose built chassis info or the Traxxas Info? I know I'm not as good as purpose built but way better then the slash as far as tunability goes. Well really in every way lol. Ae will always be better then Traxxas lol
Jeff, good question and the tuning information in this video will work for any 2wd Dirt oval car, Traxxas, buggy, purpose built etc. All this translates. The only difference is certain cars are more limited in what you can do in some of these instances. For example my GFRP car would be fully tunable in all categories where the buggy or slash may have certain areas that are in "fixed" positions meaning you cant move them without modification (which may or may not be allowed depending on rules). I ran a Associated B6.2 in dirt oval for a while as well and the same tuning applied. I still have two Traxxas Slash dirt oval cars, one is a street stock for my son, the other is a 10.5 Late Model, I use the same tuning methods as mentioned here as well. Each car whether buggy, slash, purpose built etc may have certain things it likes more or requires. But the fundamentals here are all the same. Thank you for the comment and support.
@@jbtricklerc you are welcome my friend. Thank you for the knowledgeable videos on oval racing. There is not alot unless you run mudboss and I do not. The body is uuuuugly lol. Off the subject. Just curious what diff fluid u run in your slash street stock or do you run the stock diff?
@@jeffbryner5355 No problem at all. I'm happy to help and that is what the channel is for. Helpful information, race and hobby promotion and all around fun and entertainment. I actually use between 25 to 35 shock oil in my traxxas and buggy gear diffs. Its heavy enough to not leak out quickly and light enough for a very smooth and very free diff. In my opinion the secret to RC oval gear diff building is going as light as you can that the diff can hold and not leak to get it as free as you can. I've used this method with success for years. Even if you go with actual diff fluid I recommend as light as you can. some cars/brands can hold the lighter stuff, some gear diffs leak like the Titanic. So you have to determine what it can hold and go as light as it can hold. I actually cover this in my traxxas slash and buggy speed secrets episode I uploaded a month or so ago here on the channel.
@@jbtricklerc ok cool. I will go check it out. Thanks again my friend!!!
@@jeffbryner5355 anytime, I'm always happy to help when I can.