I have the same heater. I'm very impressed with your set up, the post heat fan timer and fuse make me think that you have given this a great deal of thought. I hope that you mite be able to make up a wiring diagram. Thanks Dave
Great explanation, and we'll do something similar. It might have been helpful to just have a simple circuit diagram sketch to give the general lay-out. But, that's a fine point.
you did a great job. on my setup I have a 2000 watt 240 volt wall heater and I basically did the same thing except the contactor, and low voltage is externarnal to my unit. I just ordered a 5000 Watt garage heater and will be wiring it up pretty much just like what upi did, except I will be using a sequencer to control the unit, just like a regular electric furnace has. (I own a manufactured home with a coleman 3500 series electric furnace.) I'm really glad to see how you did yours, Mine will be alot simpler because I already have the low voltage wiring in place already.
The simple thermostat you show is a two wire setup. I'm interested in wiring it to a Nest thermostat since I use Nest within my house too. The Nest wiring diagram has a series of options. Would it just be using the RH, W1, and C?
You can use the same 24V transformer as everything else, just run a wire from the C bundle to the C terminal on the thermostat. You will need 3 conductor (18/3) thermostat wire instead of 2 conductor.
I have this heater the fan does not run all the time. You turn it all the way up and when you get to the temp you want you turn it down slowly untill it shuts off. My thermometer records the highest and lowest temp. For a week highest 67 lowest 64. (It's kicking on at 64 and shutting off at 67) 3 degrees is not bad kiddos on doing it just seems like a lot for a couple degrees
Sounds like you got a newer version than me. Reading the online reviews, there are a number of people complaining about the fan running continuously, especially in reviews more than a few years old. But it's not mentioned anymore in more recent reviews. I'm guessing the manufacturer added a thermostatic fan delay at some point in the past 2-3 years after customer complaints. The unit I got must have been older stock and did not have a fan delay. I also added the thermostat so I could adjust the temperature from the ground without getting a ladder because the unit is up 8 feet.
Great video, just one question. At the end of the heat call, how long do you currently have the fan delay set for??? Since the delay you have is no longer available, I am trying to figure which one of the fixed delays to get, I found 2 of them. One of them is 1 sec make and 45 sec break, the other one is 1 sec make and 90 sec break
Nice video: I do want to clarify, all other videos I've seen doing this require a 10/3 (neutral) wire to perform this set up. This looks to me like only a 2 wire is needed, correct? Thanks
Maybe, mine didn't so I added one. I'd have to see how that's accomplished to determine if it would work for external thermostat control. The thermostat wires are just red and white (see diagram).
Are you not worried about using 24VAC to switch a relay with a 24VDC coil? From what I've read online it's not ideal because the contact will open and close many times a second with the alternating current
Great video and very informative but I have to ask if you didn't use a smart programmable thermostat what was the point? You just changed your dial to a straight line non programmable thermostat that you can mount away from the heater. They both do the same thing and hold the room at the desired temp. One just does I na remote location.
I just installed a very similar heater last weekend, and found the built in thermostat to be very inaccurate. I'm making constant adjustments to keep a stable temperature in my shop. A remote thermostat will eliminate this problem.
I did a remote thermostat because I wanted to turn it on and off without getting out a ladder every time. The unit is mounted 8' off the ground, hard to reach the knob. Plus a remote thermostat does a much better job controlling the temperature than the built-in one. I can add a smart thermostat later if I want, but the mechanical one is all I need.
I have a Dr Infrared heater that is set up to connect to an external thermostat that then controls the contactor in the heater by selecting the external thermostat using a switch on the unit. The external thermostat they sell is just a mechanical thermostat. Any idea how I can get this set up to communicate to a programmable thermostat or could I connect it to a single pole line volt programmable thermostat?
You can use a line voltage relay to switch the power and convert it to 24VAC for a normal thermostat. Search for RC840 relay for example. You'll have to add a 24VAC transformer too.
I think it was Supply House. It's just a generic 24V relay, almost any one will work, other brands or styles are fine. Looks like Allied carries that exact model number.
Thanks for posting this video. I set mine up just as you did. Only difference is I’m using a 24vac contactor. The problem I’m having is about 28mV gets through the contactor when the thermostat is not calling for heat. This apparently is enough to make contact in the timer. Any advise? A resistor maybe?
@@glenncates1042 Hmm, when the thermostat is open there should be no current flow. If you completely disconnect the thermostat and have the wires apart not touching does it still run? Also if you're using the same fan delay timer, double check you have the limit terminal connected to the R bundle or the fan will run constantly. A 24V contactor should take the place of the 240V relay in my setup, so it should be connected to W and C.
@@TechnicalLee I tried completely disconnecting the thermostat. I connected only one side of the contactor to 24vac, touched the other side to G & the fan comes on. Remove G and the timer counts down and shuts off. So maybe either the contactor is bad (11 ohms across the terminals), or the timer for allowing only 28mV to switch it on?
@@glenncates1042 Contactor coil should be wired between W and C bundles (I talk about the three wire-nutted bundles in the video). The G terminal on the fan delay should be connected to the W bundle so the fan control is in parallel with the contactor, not in series. The resistance of the coil shouldn't matter because when the thermostat is open there should be zero voltage on the coil. If you are getting voltage/current on the contactor coil with the thermostat disconnected something is wired wrong.
First off great video and thanks for sharing. I have a question and you seem to be the only talking about the Thermostat block on youtube. If I just wanted to hook up a 240v double pole in line thermostat would I just run power in to the thermostat and out to T1 and T2 and not use L1 and L2? I already have the wire and thermostat, that's why I'm asking, thank you.
No, you have to wire it up like in the diagram (move the one wire from L1 to T2 as directed). The heating elements need to be powered through L1 and L2 with big gauge wire directly from the breaker to run safely. Only the fan and contactor will be powered through the thermostat, so you can use much smaller regular 14 gauge Romex for the thermostat. I don't think they make a line voltage thermostat that can switch the 30 amps required for the heating elements-if you tried to run everything through the thermostat it would probably start on fire.
I need some clarification. Your 7500 watt heater has what looks to be a 3 pole contactor the S-P35T can you give a little better breakdown on the connections? I'm finding it difficult to find a wiring schematic online. I have a 5000 watt heater that came with no contactor and I had bought a Packard C230C 2-pole contactor and so obviously the contactor connections are in different locations and it is difficult to make out some of the connections on your video. For example, the 24volt connections to get the contactor to flip. Also, It would be awesome if you could offer some advice on connecting a wifi thermostat so that your fan delay and everything will work as you have intended with the two-wire mechanical thermostat. I ran a 5 wire thermostat cable, got the wifi thermostat connected and powered up but it's not turning on the heat coils and then the fan delay. I've watched your video countless times and tried taking detailed notes but I'm stumped. If you get this, I'd really appreciate any advice or input you could offer. BTW the video and details are awesome! I appreciate you taking the time to put this online.
I showed the factory wiring diagram sticker at the beginning of the video. If you focus on the area that says temperature control, really all I've done is remove that and added devices to separately send power from wire labeled t2 to the motor (circled D symbol) and to the contactor (J rectangle). The rest of the wiring is unchanged. Yes that is a 3-pole contractor, but only the outside two terminals are being used. You only need a two-pole contactor however. My contactor coil voltage is 240V, so I had to add a relay to switch the 240V coil on and off with 24V. If you were doing this from scratch rather than modifying, you could just buy a standard 24V coil contactor and eliminate that relay. I go through the high voltage wiring step-by-step staring at 10:20. I also went through the 24V wiring, but it's pretty simple. All you have to do is connect the red, white, and common wires together in separate bundles with 3 wire nuts. When the thermostat calls, it connects red and white together to start the heater. That will work the same way whether you use a mechanical or a WiFi thermostat. If it's not working, then you need to do some basic troubleshooting like checking that you have 24VAC at the thermostat between the red and white wires. If you are still having problems perhaps you should upload a video showing your wiring and issues.
TechnicalLee Hey TechnicalLee thanks for reading and replying to my initial message. Just prior to receiving and reading your reply I got the thermostat working and it successfully tripped the relay which turned on the fan delay. The last thing I could not figure out was why I couldn’t get my contactor to trip. I was using the 24v from the transformer without any luck. I was just about to go back to check the thermostat wiring and I found your reply. You brought up something I hadn’t even considered. The contactor may require 240v to trigger and send the 240v through to the heat coils! I just wonder if that is the case. Thank you again for your input!
@@dmwaeschle Yes, if it says 240V coil on the side then you need to run 240V through the control coil to close it. It might be easier to swap it out with a regular 24V contactor you could get at any home improvement store if you have it wired without a relay.
@@TechnicalLee thanks! I did figure that out. As soon as I have the heater which should be next week I am doing this. Great video, BTW! By chance did you ever do a formal schematic?
Great Video! Do you happen to have a wiring diagram available of what you did or perhaps have one that I can purchase? I am wiring a similar heater... a Fahrenheat FUH724 which is a little different and there are a couple of your wire routes that I was not able to follow. Any help you can lend would be greatly appreciated... I am almost complete with the wiring. Thank you in advance!
I don't have a diagram, just wired it up logically when I did it. You have a different brand and model so it wouldn't work for you anyway. All you are doing is making a loop from L1 to L2 for both the fan and the elements with the load and relay or contactor in the circuit. Same idea with the control loops if you are using 240V coils. If you are having trouble, try to trace out the loop step by step from L1 to L2 for each circuit. Otherwise I need more specific info to help. The model you gave is different because it switches the elements with the thermostat directly instead of using a contactor with a 240V coil like mine had. It also has a mechanical thermostatic fan delay which mine didn't have, so you could use that instead of adding the delay timer like I did. All you would have to do is replace the thermostat with a single pole 30A A/C contractor with a 24V coil and add a 240 to 24V transformer to switch it.
@@TechnicalLee Thank you for your time and your reply. Any chance you might have a direct way of contact? I would be happy to pay you for your aid in helping me get this heater up and running... if this is something that you offer or would be interested in. Thanks again!
great video! i noticed that since you disconnected the fan knob, that means that the fan will run at full power all the time with the new setup correct?
Awesome video, but my setup wont turn fan on or off. I have same delay for fan as u, wired the same. But I'm using 2 pole lug for heating coils, and a Honeywell's smart thermostat.. has me baffled, y wire back from thermostat activates lug, but will not turn on delay on make. I also have same transformer as well.. any advice would b appreciated!
Did you wire the limit terminal on the ICM251 control to red permanently? It won't work with it disconnected. I talk about that at about 13:30 in the video. Also you should be using white or green from the thermostat for fan control, yellow is for cooling. My setup I just have everything running off white wire (heat) which I would recommend unless you need independent fan control (then use green).
It works as it should without the delay timer, I just like there fact that the delay timer would allow the fan to cool off heating coils.. so I just added it in, broke one side of fan circuit (always hot). That's why I'm so baffled, it should work. Thankyou for responding! And again, great video.
Well update, it is now figured out and working properly.. common and hot need to be kept the same, it is very easy to swap them around. If anyone wants to know, reply and I will explain. This video is spot on, but I'm using wifi thermostat, that combined with not using a separate relay for heating elements, was very tricky!
@@michaelrichards2222 This is important: the green wire on this particular transformer is the common, and is not the same as G on the thermostat! Do not connect the green terminal on the thermostat to common, or you will short out your transformer when you run heat or fan! Common (black), red, and white all need to be kept separate in their own bundles as you see in my video around 18:00 (3 wire nuts for the low voltage wiring, note the green transformer common wire is connected to the black/common bundle).
Greetings, amaze with the work, I have the Comfort Zone CZ220 5,000W, Fan-Forced Ceiling Mount Heater with Dual Knob Controls and i most order all your parts as annotated on video. Missing one item to come and suppose to be here this week, wondering if possible to have the schematic for the installation and is you have to buy extra cable and what gauge was use? Well hop all this work on my heater. Any help is being appreciated.
First, the fan is a piece of shit! Second, Comfort Zone puts a label on this product stating no serviceable parts available! Try to find a fan replacement! !!!!!! This heater causes your electric meter to spin like a c.d. Lastly, if your trying to keep a garage above freezing I recommend you mount it at a lower level. Like 2 feet!
Works fine for me in an insulated garage. I have it pointed down and the louvers adjusted so the air blows towards the floor. And yes 7.5kW will use a lot of electricity, gas heaters are cheaper to run but more difficult to install. They don't want you to mount it that low because it could overheat and start a fire if something gets put in front of it.
I have the same heater. I'm very impressed with your set up, the post heat fan timer and fuse make me think that you have given this a great deal of thought. I hope that you mite be able to make up a wiring diagram.
Thanks Dave
Diagram is posted now.
Great explanation, and we'll do something similar. It might have been helpful to just have a simple circuit diagram sketch to give the general lay-out. But, that's a fine point.
you did a great job. on my setup I have a 2000 watt 240 volt wall heater and I basically did the same thing except the contactor, and low voltage is externarnal to my unit. I just ordered a 5000 Watt garage heater and will be wiring it up pretty much just like what upi did, except I will be using a sequencer to control the unit, just like a regular electric furnace has. (I own a manufactured home with a coleman 3500 series electric furnace.) I'm really glad to see how you did yours, Mine will be alot simpler because I already have the low voltage wiring in place already.
I have 2 of these heaters one for each garage would like to wire them like yours but link for wiring them doesn't work anymore
Thank you. Used this to help set mine up.
The simple thermostat you show is a two wire setup. I'm interested in wiring it to a Nest thermostat since I use Nest within my house too. The Nest wiring diagram has a series of options. Would it just be using the RH, W1, and C?
where did you get the wall bracket for your heater , mine did not come with one Thanks
Thanks for the video. If you could, please update the links to the wiring diagram. It doesn't seem to be working. Thanks again!
I would love to hook up a thermostat to my heater like this but neither one of the links to the diagrams work.
I wish the links did work
You are saying that the black wire goes. from the relay to L1. Does it work by going to L2 as well?
If I want to hook up a “smart” thermostat that needs a C wire, I assume I will need a separate 24v AC transformer to power it?
You can use the same 24V transformer as everything else, just run a wire from the C bundle to the C terminal on the thermostat. You will need 3 conductor (18/3) thermostat wire instead of 2 conductor.
I have this heater the fan does not run all the time. You turn it all the way up and when you get to the temp you want you turn it down slowly untill it shuts off. My thermometer records the highest and lowest temp. For a week highest 67 lowest 64. (It's kicking on at 64 and shutting off at 67) 3 degrees is not bad kiddos on doing it just seems like a lot for a couple degrees
Sounds like you got a newer version than me. Reading the online reviews, there are a number of people complaining about the fan running continuously, especially in reviews more than a few years old. But it's not mentioned anymore in more recent reviews. I'm guessing the manufacturer added a thermostatic fan delay at some point in the past 2-3 years after customer complaints. The unit I got must have been older stock and did not have a fan delay. I also added the thermostat so I could adjust the temperature from the ground without getting a ladder because the unit is up 8 feet.
Great video, just one question. At the end of the heat call, how long do you currently have the fan delay set for??? Since the delay you have is no longer available, I am trying to figure which one of the fixed delays to get, I found 2 of them. One of them is 1 sec make and 45 sec break, the other one is 1 sec make and 90 sec break
I think it's set for around 2 minutes.
Can you do this to a dayton 3UG73D heater?
Just purchased a Fahreneat FUH54. Would this same mod/parts be appropriate for it?
Where is the wiring diagram posted? thanks
can this be done using a aube rc840t relay instead?
Need to know where you purchased the Zettler cont-actor? Thanks!
Nice video: I do want to clarify, all other videos I've seen doing this require a 10/3 (neutral) wire to perform this set up. This looks to me like only a 2 wire is needed, correct? Thanks
Yes, it's 240V so only two wires (plus ground) needed. Neutral is only needed for 120V.
On my unit it went from L2 to the lower left side of the original thermostat that came on the unit.
the wiring diagram after the completed install! thanks
I thought that later model of that heater already had a post fan controller built in(?). Do you have a video for the 7500W circuit thermostat hook-up?
Maybe, mine didn't so I added one. I'd have to see how that's accomplished to determine if it would work for external thermostat control. The thermostat wires are just red and white (see diagram).
Are you not worried about using 24VAC to switch a relay with a 24VDC coil? From what I've read online it's not ideal because the contact will open and close many times a second with the alternating current
It's an AC coil. Part number AZ2280-1CT-24AF, A in the last part is for AC. No issues with it.
Great video and very informative but I have to ask if you didn't use a smart programmable thermostat what was the point? You just changed your dial to a straight line non programmable thermostat that you can mount away from the heater. They both do the same thing and hold the room at the desired temp. One just does I na remote location.
I just installed a very similar heater last weekend, and found the built in thermostat to be very inaccurate. I'm making constant adjustments to keep a stable temperature in my shop. A remote thermostat will eliminate this problem.
I did a remote thermostat because I wanted to turn it on and off without getting out a ladder every time. The unit is mounted 8' off the ground, hard to reach the knob. Plus a remote thermostat does a much better job controlling the temperature than the built-in one. I can add a smart thermostat later if I want, but the mechanical one is all I need.
is the diagram still available?
I have a Dr Infrared heater that is set up to connect to an external thermostat that then controls the contactor in the heater by selecting the external thermostat using a switch on the unit. The external thermostat they sell is just a mechanical thermostat. Any idea how I can get this set up to communicate to a programmable thermostat or could I connect it to a single pole line volt programmable thermostat?
You can use a line voltage relay to switch the power and convert it to 24VAC for a normal thermostat. Search for RC840 relay for example. You'll have to add a 24VAC transformer too.
I cannot find the Zettler relay you show in this video online under part# AZ2280-1CT-24AF. Can you share where you purchased it from?
I think it was Supply House. It's just a generic 24V relay, almost any one will work, other brands or styles are fine. Looks like Allied carries that exact model number.
Where is the diagram link posted please???
Thanks for posting this video. I set mine up just as you did. Only difference is I’m using a 24vac contactor. The problem I’m having is about 28mV gets through the contactor when the thermostat is not calling for heat. This apparently is enough to make contact in the timer. Any advise? A resistor maybe?
If it's a Nest then you need to run an extra common wire from the C side of the transformer to the thermostat.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm using the exact same thermostat as you are in the video.
@@glenncates1042 Hmm, when the thermostat is open there should be no current flow. If you completely disconnect the thermostat and have the wires apart not touching does it still run? Also if you're using the same fan delay timer, double check you have the limit terminal connected to the R bundle or the fan will run constantly. A 24V contactor should take the place of the 240V relay in my setup, so it should be connected to W and C.
@@TechnicalLee I tried completely disconnecting the thermostat. I connected only one side of the contactor to 24vac, touched the other side to G & the fan comes on. Remove G and the timer counts down and shuts off. So maybe either the contactor is bad (11 ohms across the terminals), or the timer for allowing only 28mV to switch it on?
@@glenncates1042 Contactor coil should be wired between W and C bundles (I talk about the three wire-nutted bundles in the video). The G terminal on the fan delay should be connected to the W bundle so the fan control is in parallel with the contactor, not in series. The resistance of the coil shouldn't matter because when the thermostat is open there should be zero voltage on the coil. If you are getting voltage/current on the contactor coil with the thermostat disconnected something is wired wrong.
First off great video and thanks for sharing. I have a question and you seem to be the only talking about the Thermostat block on youtube. If I just wanted to hook up a 240v double pole in line thermostat would I just run power in to the thermostat and out to T1 and T2 and not use L1 and L2? I already have the wire and thermostat, that's why I'm asking, thank you.
No, you have to wire it up like in the diagram (move the one wire from L1 to T2 as directed). The heating elements need to be powered through L1 and L2 with big gauge wire directly from the breaker to run safely. Only the fan and contactor will be powered through the thermostat, so you can use much smaller regular 14 gauge Romex for the thermostat. I don't think they make a line voltage thermostat that can switch the 30 amps required for the heating elements-if you tried to run everything through the thermostat it would probably start on fire.
@@TechnicalLee OK thank you and thanks for the quick reply
I need some clarification. Your 7500 watt heater has what looks to be a 3 pole contactor the S-P35T can you give a little better breakdown on the connections? I'm finding it difficult to find a wiring schematic online. I have a 5000 watt heater that came with no contactor and I had bought a Packard C230C 2-pole contactor and so obviously the contactor connections are in different locations and it is difficult to make out some of the connections on your video. For example, the 24volt connections to get the contactor to flip. Also, It would be awesome if you could offer some advice on connecting a wifi thermostat so that your fan delay and everything will work as you have intended with the two-wire mechanical thermostat. I ran a 5 wire thermostat cable, got the wifi thermostat connected and powered up but it's not turning on the heat coils and then the fan delay. I've watched your video countless times and tried taking detailed notes but I'm stumped. If you get this, I'd really appreciate any advice or input you could offer. BTW the video and details are awesome! I appreciate you taking the time to put this online.
I showed the factory wiring diagram sticker at the beginning of the video. If you focus on the area that says temperature control, really all I've done is remove that and added devices to separately send power from wire labeled t2 to the motor (circled D symbol) and to the contactor (J rectangle). The rest of the wiring is unchanged. Yes that is a 3-pole contractor, but only the outside two terminals are being used. You only need a two-pole contactor however. My contactor coil voltage is 240V, so I had to add a relay to switch the 240V coil on and off with 24V. If you were doing this from scratch rather than modifying, you could just buy a standard 24V coil contactor and eliminate that relay. I go through the high voltage wiring step-by-step staring at 10:20. I also went through the 24V wiring, but it's pretty simple. All you have to do is connect the red, white, and common wires together in separate bundles with 3 wire nuts. When the thermostat calls, it connects red and white together to start the heater. That will work the same way whether you use a mechanical or a WiFi thermostat. If it's not working, then you need to do some basic troubleshooting like checking that you have 24VAC at the thermostat between the red and white wires. If you are still having problems perhaps you should upload a video showing your wiring and issues.
TechnicalLee Hey TechnicalLee thanks for reading and replying to my initial message. Just prior to receiving and reading your reply I got the
thermostat working and it successfully tripped the relay which turned on the fan delay. The last thing I could not figure out was why I couldn’t get my contactor to trip. I was using the 24v from the transformer without any luck. I was just about to go back to check the thermostat wiring and I found your reply. You brought up something I hadn’t even considered. The contactor may require 240v to trigger and send the 240v through to the heat coils! I just wonder if that is the case. Thank you again for your input!
@@dmwaeschle Yes, if it says 240V coil on the side then you need to run 240V through the control coil to close it. It might be easier to swap it out with a regular 24V contactor you could get at any home improvement store if you have it wired without a relay.
Relay AZ2280-1CT-24AF in case you want to copy and paste the relay number instead of trying to get it out of the video.
How did you mount the fan control? I just received mine and I am wondering.
There is a hole in the center of the control for a screw. Drill a small hole in the metal and screw it on.
@@TechnicalLee thanks! I did figure that out. As soon as I have the heater which should be next week I am doing this. Great video, BTW!
By chance did you ever do a formal schematic?
You should do another video with a Comfort Zone CX230R. Just sayin'.
I would of bought a RIB relay make it much easier then what you did
Relay in a box
Great Video! Do you happen to have a wiring diagram available of what you did or perhaps have one that I can purchase? I am wiring a similar heater... a Fahrenheat FUH724 which is a little different and there are a couple of your wire routes that I was not able to follow. Any help you can lend would be greatly appreciated... I am almost complete with the wiring. Thank you in advance!
I don't have a diagram, just wired it up logically when I did it. You have a different brand and model so it wouldn't work for you anyway. All you are doing is making a loop from L1 to L2 for both the fan and the elements with the load and relay or contactor in the circuit. Same idea with the control loops if you are using 240V coils. If you are having trouble, try to trace out the loop step by step from L1 to L2 for each circuit. Otherwise I need more specific info to help. The model you gave is different because it switches the elements with the thermostat directly instead of using a contactor with a 240V coil like mine had. It also has a mechanical thermostatic fan delay which mine didn't have, so you could use that instead of adding the delay timer like I did. All you would have to do is replace the thermostat with a single pole 30A A/C contractor with a 24V coil and add a 240 to 24V transformer to switch it.
@@TechnicalLee Thank you for your time and your reply. Any chance you might have a direct way of contact? I would be happy to pay you for your aid in helping me get this heater up and running... if this is something that you offer or would be interested in. Thanks again!
@@kjr6289 Did you end up getting the FUH heater completed? I have the same heater, and I want to do this setup.
@bbonifield Hi, yes I did. Happy to share some info and pictures if you still need help.
@@kjr6289 yes, that would be great. i bought the parts from the video, but i haven't installed it yet.
great video! i noticed that since you disconnected the fan knob, that means that the fan will run at full power all the time with the new setup correct?
No, the fan is on a time delay and will run only when the thermostat calls. Go to 18:57 in the video to see it work.
Awesome video, but my setup wont turn fan on or off. I have same delay for fan as u, wired the same. But I'm using 2 pole lug for heating coils, and a Honeywell's smart thermostat.. has me baffled, y wire back from thermostat activates lug, but will not turn on delay on make. I also have same transformer as well.. any advice would b appreciated!
Did you wire the limit terminal on the ICM251 control to red permanently? It won't work with it disconnected. I talk about that at about 13:30 in the video. Also you should be using white or green from the thermostat for fan control, yellow is for cooling. My setup I just have everything running off white wire (heat) which I would recommend unless you need independent fan control (then use green).
@@TechnicalLee yes it is hooked up to red from transformer. I am also using w terminal on thermostat, I was mistaken.. green is hooked to common.
It works as it should without the delay timer, I just like there fact that the delay timer would allow the fan to cool off heating coils.. so I just added it in, broke one side of fan circuit (always hot). That's why I'm so baffled, it should work. Thankyou for responding! And again, great video.
Well update, it is now figured out and working properly.. common and hot need to be kept the same, it is very easy to swap them around. If anyone wants to know, reply and I will explain. This video is spot on, but I'm using wifi thermostat, that combined with not using a separate relay for heating elements, was very tricky!
@@michaelrichards2222 This is important: the green wire on this particular transformer is the common, and is not the same as G on the thermostat! Do not connect the green terminal on the thermostat to common, or you will short out your transformer when you run heat or fan! Common (black), red, and white all need to be kept separate in their own bundles as you see in my video around 18:00 (3 wire nuts for the low voltage wiring, note the green transformer common wire is connected to the black/common bundle).
Greetings, amaze with the work, I have the Comfort Zone CZ220 5,000W, Fan-Forced Ceiling Mount Heater with Dual Knob Controls and i most order all your parts as annotated on video. Missing one item to come and suppose to be here this week, wondering if possible to have the schematic for the installation and is you have to buy extra cable and what gauge was use? Well hop all this work on my heater. Any help is being appreciated.
All done. Works great! www.dropbox.com/s/byy0adtem7xn68h/IMG_3241.jpeg?dl=0
First, the fan is a piece of shit! Second, Comfort Zone puts a label on this product stating no serviceable parts available! Try to find a fan replacement! !!!!!! This heater causes your electric meter to spin like a c.d.
Lastly, if your trying to keep a garage above freezing I recommend you mount it at a lower level. Like 2 feet!
Works fine for me in an insulated garage. I have it pointed down and the louvers adjusted so the air blows towards the floor. And yes 7.5kW will use a lot of electricity, gas heaters are cheaper to run but more difficult to install. They don't want you to mount it that low because it could overheat and start a fire if something gets put in front of it.