I'm 16 and I'm going to do a ls swap in my 1986 f150 and I will probably go back to this video 100 times. Thanks for all the information no one else tells you
Im glad the video helped out. I plan on revisiting the project when it warms up and going through some of the things i had to figure out on my own a bit more in depth. I know how much of a pain in the ass it is to try to figure stuff out. And for me, i got a lot of wrong information that cost me quite a bit of money throughout the build.
Use a fuel pump setup from the 4.9L F150, plus a Corvette fuel filter/regulator. Pressures are compatible, because Ford ran the rail pressure at 60psi to keep the fuel from boiling in the rails. This gets you on the road with factory parts, so fixing it on the road is easier and faster.
I should let you know that i ended up changing my power steering pressure line to a JIC Hydraulic line. I kept blowing the ends off the 6AN Fittings. 90* on one end and a 45 on the other #6 JIC fittings, and they fit the 6an tapered fittings just fine. You can get those at most auto parts stores.
@@kryptofreak440 i ran it for a few months before i really started having trouble. But i believe a lot of that was because i had my rev limiter fairly low just to be cautious and i was working a lot of kinks out with the trans tuning and what not. As soon as i got the trans tuning dialed in i blew them one right after another. The first one popped on a 6k rpm burnout with the wheel turned. Thats the one that blew all over the headers and caught on fire. Seriously recommended just going hydraulic. Especially for as cheap as they are to have made, its really cheap insurance.
@@LSbullnose definitely, I get that! My local hydraulic shop was going to give me the hose to get it all measured but then I found the adapters to run the AN lines and decided to go that route
I own both Fords and Chevys and approve of this combination. 1980s engines were horribly underpowered due to emissions regs and have fecal fuel economy. As for yer fingers, get into modern thin cut-resistant work gloves. They're cheap, lots cheaper than flesh and work very well. Best style are coated so oil stays on the outside.
I think your driveline vibration is because your motor and trans are not centered with the rear dif. The dif is off set to stock Ford motor mounting. Just did a swap on a 93 and the dif is not centered
As long as the pinion angles match it wont vibrate. For whatever reason my vibration has left. It didnt last very long after i posted this video and have no idea where it went. I love problems that fix themselves
Hey man great video I will reference this more times than I can count! I am in way deep on a 85 f250 turbo ls swap. I’m running a terminator x max to run the engine and trans but I bought the truck with a blown 460 that was already pulled. Harness is still intact but I’m curious if you know of a main power wire that supplies power to everything in the cab. I cant seem to locate it? Traced from the fuse box but I guess I was expecting to see a large gauge wire going to battery and all I’m seeing max running into cab is 10 gauge or so ? Any help appreciated sick build man!
What did you use to center engine? , how much would you say you cut on motor mount tabs? I'm doung this swap on my 86 bullnose with 5.3 4l60e. I keep coming back to your video 😊😊
A tape measure and level to center it. I cut the entire stock frame tower and mounts out and started over. Trans mount is the stock cross member moved back a tiny bit with a spacer on it.
I definately want to keep the bed looking good. Probably remount the battery to other side of engine bay and build and airbox. Have to worry about making sure the super charger fits first and figure out where to relocate the intake prior to worrying about battery.
I have my ls swap in already sitting on the mounts but for the past two days ive bin thinking how do you get power to the cab like lights and stuff like that i have a 86 ford had a inline 6 could you mag me and give me some tipps? Aswell how to get the key to work with the ls swap
ok, where to start here... #1 try to find a wiring diagram for your specific year of truck, motor, trans etc. An auto mechanic can probably supply you with that for a fee. Just ask. You need the ignition circuit print out. #2 you will find the main power wire that comes from the battery in the diagram, thats the one that needs constant power, and will give you body power. #3 LS ecms have whats called PATS, Passive Anti-Theft System. This has to be disabled to use your key. HP Tuners, or one of the many online tuners out there can do that for you. #4 the before mentioned wiring diagram should have your starter wire and ignition wire on it, with the color codes, thats what you need to look at for tapping back into the GM ECM. #5 your stock harness in its stock form will not work. You need to either re-pin it and rework it (ive never tried that) or use another harness manufacturer that makes it easier.
my girlfriends dad has a old ford truck i havent seen it in person the pics look like a late 90s f150 i plan on 100% junkyard ls swapping it the absolute cheapest i can running wise everything else will be best quality.and will need all the help i can this isnt my first swap so shouldnt be that hard
Hey Brother, I’m about to do an LS swap on my 87’ F150.. Either 5.3 or 6.0. I’d love to pick your brain a bit.. Do you have any contact info where I could reach you? Going to be a build series for my channel, and would love to have you as a resource.. Also - how long did the swap take you? Thanks, Kenny
I messaged you. Haha. I had the engine in and running in 2 days. Probably a week or longer waiting on a few parts here and there. And a couple weeks to button it up. Most of that time was waiting on parts. Not counting the trans work i did, that was a couple days and a bunch of paper cuts and cleaning and prepping the engine before the swap. I spent some time on all that for sure.
Hey buddy I know you removed the old motor mounts with the one hole but did you also remover the other bracket from the crossmember would you be avale to send me some close ups on the motor mounts doing a bullnose right now thanks bud
I cut everything off the stock cross member that ford put on there. I did reuse the cross member, but I welded a plate over the large hole on the driver's side, then just added those motor mounts that I have listed in the description. I'd send you pics, but I'm out of town working at the moment so I don't have access to the truck.
Would it have been much easier to swap it with a 351 windsor? I have an 85 f150 with an I6 that I wanna swap with something I can get atleast 400hp out of. I'm thinking the windsor would be better but not sure.
Sure it would be easier. But only because you can reuse your transmission, well and a carburator. Still need different frame towers and motor mounts. The ls can handle significantly more power than the Windsor. So for me the ls is the way to go. Not only that, I've never seen a stock Windsor bottom end rev to 7000. I rev the 6.0 to 7k with no issues
Honestly im not sure. As i never had the gm radiator to compare to. But ive got a buddy who used a c10 radiator and i believe, but dont remember for sure, he was able to reuse all the gm hoses and what not. I know he changed his mounting system though
How did you mount the engine and Transmission? I am buying a Ford Rollback 1990 and need to know how to mount the engine and transmission so they're level.
I made my own mounts. I believe i show them in the video. I also used the stock trans crossmember and built a spacer for it to raise the trans up. Had to move the crossmember. Pretty easy to level it. Hold it with engine hoist. Make sure truck is level then just use a level on the engine. Tack in your 2 front mounts. Set it down with the trans on a jack and repeat leveling to desired position front to rear. Doesnt have to be perfect. But pinion and yoke angle matters. Have to get that the same
@@bradleydunford725 so, it's been a bit since I've been into it. But If I remember right, one of those fittings is mega long, where it holds part of the trans online. So I do not know if you can use just a regular ole fitting
On the drive shaft do you have a part number on the u joint/ yolk from shaft to diff. Connection id like to try and use gm shaft vs getting one made to much $$
Great video!! Keep coming back to it for missed items, question on radiator any particular reason why you didn't use the chevy one? To much modifications to make it work? Or over all size won't work?
I didnt have the stock chevy one. I just bought the motor and trans/tcase. However, if i was going to redo it, id look into a C10 radiator. I *think* the hoses are real frigging close to fitting.
I used the stock GM shaft and had it retubed to add an extra couple inches. I think i explained it in the video. But dont remember. Anyways. I swapped the rear pinion yoke for one that fit the gm sized u-joints. Cant even remember the size anymore. 1350s maybe
I have put more badass Chevrolet V8s in Fords than my co-workers have even gotten a Ford running I don't think any of them have actually gotten one running?
I'm 16 and I'm going to do a ls swap in my 1986 f150 and I will probably go back to this video 100 times. Thanks for all the information no one else tells you
Im glad the video helped out. I plan on revisiting the project when it warms up and going through some of the things i had to figure out on my own a bit more in depth. I know how much of a pain in the ass it is to try to figure stuff out. And for me, i got a lot of wrong information that cost me quite a bit of money throughout the build.
Also, dont be shy to ask questions. I have a running driving truck, so i should be able to help get you through most areas you get stuck on.
@@LSbullnose how did you do it with the gauges?
@@LSbullnose and the fuel system?
I used all new gauges. Mine are New Vintage gauges
Use a fuel pump setup from the 4.9L F150, plus a Corvette fuel filter/regulator. Pressures are compatible, because Ford ran the rail pressure at 60psi to keep the fuel from boiling in the rails. This gets you on the road with factory parts, so fixing it on the road is easier and faster.
This video helped me out so much with that power steering pump ! I’m doing a ls swap on my Ford F-150 1990 . 6.0 going in
I should let you know that i ended up changing my power steering pressure line to a JIC Hydraulic line. I kept blowing the ends off the 6AN Fittings. 90* on one end and a 45 on the other #6 JIC fittings, and they fit the 6an tapered fittings just fine. You can get those at most auto parts stores.
@@LSbullnose How long did it take to blow the end off? I've done the same thing on my Bronco's LS swap and haven't had any issues yet.
@@kryptofreak440 i ran it for a few months before i really started having trouble. But i believe a lot of that was because i had my rev limiter fairly low just to be cautious and i was working a lot of kinks out with the trans tuning and what not. As soon as i got the trans tuning dialed in i blew them one right after another.
The first one popped on a 6k rpm burnout with the wheel turned. Thats the one that blew all over the headers and caught on fire.
Seriously recommended just going hydraulic. Especially for as cheap as they are to have made, its really cheap insurance.
@@LSbullnose definitely, I get that! My local hydraulic shop was going to give me the hose to get it all measured but then I found the adapters to run the AN lines and decided to go that route
@@kryptofreak440 the cool thing is that you can run the same adapters. JIC and AN have the same tapered flare for the most part.
Very sweet video man, lots of great info. My swap will start soon I'll be watching a few more times to make i don't miss out on stuff
Wish I'd have found this months ago. You said it, man....finding the right parts is a time and money killer.
Big time
I own both Fords and Chevys and approve of this combination. 1980s engines were horribly underpowered due to emissions regs and have fecal fuel economy.
As for yer fingers, get into modern thin cut-resistant work gloves. They're cheap, lots cheaper than flesh and work very well. Best style are coated so oil stays on the outside.
I think your driveline vibration is because your motor and trans are not centered with the rear dif. The dif is off set to stock Ford motor mounting. Just did a swap on a 93 and the dif is not centered
As long as the pinion angles match it wont vibrate. For whatever reason my vibration has left. It didnt last very long after i posted this video and have no idea where it went. I love problems that fix themselves
The 5/8"-18 o ring 6an fitting is for the ls power steering pump right
Great work T8ter!
Hey man great video I will reference this more times than I can count! I am in way deep on a 85 f250 turbo ls swap. I’m running a terminator x max to run the engine and trans but I bought the truck with a blown 460 that was already pulled. Harness is still intact but I’m curious if you know of a main power wire that supplies power to everything in the cab. I cant seem to locate it? Traced from the fuse box but I guess I was expecting to see a large gauge wire going to battery and all I’m seeing max running into cab is 10 gauge or so ? Any help appreciated sick build man!
Doing this in a 76 f150, since it was carbureted will i need another type of pump in tank or will that walbro pump you used be fine?
What did you use to center engine? , how much would you say you cut on motor mount tabs? I'm doung this swap on my 86 bullnose with 5.3 4l60e. I keep coming back to your video 😊😊
What you used for trans mount?
A tape measure and level to center it. I cut the entire stock frame tower and mounts out and started over. Trans mount is the stock cross member moved back a tiny bit with a spacer on it.
any updates? maybe some running and driving videos just for the heck of it? Really wanting to do this swap on my bronco
I need to get it back together. Tore apart for tc upgrades!
Do a battery relocation kit. Make a box in the corner of your bed.
I definately want to keep the bed looking good. Probably remount the battery to other side of engine bay and build and airbox. Have to worry about making sure the super charger fits first and figure out where to relocate the intake prior to worrying about battery.
Very helpful information. Thanks for the video. Did you not use a Holley terminator like a lot of these other guys to get this thing running ?
I used the stock ecm.
Alright so I’m 16 about to 5.3 swap my 86 f150 5.0 and I’m just curious on how much it cost to be honest
I have my ls swap in already sitting on the mounts but for the past two days ive bin thinking how do you get power to the cab like lights and stuff like that i have a 86 ford had a inline 6 could you mag me and give me some tipps? Aswell how to get the key to work with the ls swap
ok, where to start here...
#1 try to find a wiring diagram for your specific year of truck, motor, trans etc. An auto mechanic can probably supply you with that for a fee. Just ask. You need the ignition circuit print out.
#2 you will find the main power wire that comes from the battery in the diagram, thats the one that needs constant power, and will give you body power.
#3 LS ecms have whats called PATS, Passive Anti-Theft System. This has to be disabled to use your key. HP Tuners, or one of the many online tuners out there can do that for you.
#4 the before mentioned wiring diagram should have your starter wire and ignition wire on it, with the color codes, thats what you need to look at for tapping back into the GM ECM.
#5 your stock harness in its stock form will not work. You need to either re-pin it and rework it (ive never tried that) or use another harness manufacturer that makes it easier.
my girlfriends dad has a old ford truck i havent seen it in person the pics look like a late 90s f150 i plan on 100% junkyard ls swapping it the absolute cheapest i can running wise everything else will be best quality.and will need all the help i can this isnt my first swap so shouldnt be that hard
Why no coyote swap? Ecoboost swap?
LS is very simple and makes good power. Plus way cheaper
What did you do for the transmission shift linkage?
I used a sidewinder shifter and it comes with the cable
What master cylinder do you used. I need change to the break pedal I got f150 1990 whit crown victoria front swap an ls1 us my goal, thank you
Stock one
Think I can email you about how you wired it up with the truck harness yo engine harness
Oh man, its been a minute. I should probably make a video. But yeah, if you send me your email, ill hit u up
@@LSbullnose or the video would work better lol I been following waiting for the video
Hey Brother, I’m about to do an LS swap on my 87’ F150.. Either 5.3 or 6.0. I’d love to pick your brain a bit.. Do you have any contact info where I could reach you? Going to be a build series for my channel, and would love to have you as a resource.. Also - how long did the swap take you?
Thanks,
Kenny
I messaged you. Haha.
I had the engine in and running in 2 days. Probably a week or longer waiting on a few parts here and there. And a couple weeks to button it up. Most of that time was waiting on parts.
Not counting the trans work i did, that was a couple days and a bunch of paper cuts and cleaning and prepping the engine before the swap. I spent some time on all that for sure.
Hey buddy I know you removed the old motor mounts with the one hole but did you also remover the other bracket from the crossmember would you be avale to send me some close ups on the motor mounts doing a bullnose right now thanks bud
I cut everything off the stock cross member that ford put on there. I did reuse the cross member, but I welded a plate over the large hole on the driver's side, then just added those motor mounts that I have listed in the description. I'd send you pics, but I'm out of town working at the moment so I don't have access to the truck.
What Transmission?
4l80e
Would it have been much easier to swap it with a 351 windsor? I have an 85 f150 with an I6 that I wanna swap with something I can get atleast 400hp out of. I'm thinking the windsor would be better but not sure.
Sure it would be easier. But only because you can reuse your transmission, well and a carburator. Still need different frame towers and motor mounts. The ls can handle significantly more power than the Windsor. So for me the ls is the way to go. Not only that, I've never seen a stock Windsor bottom end rev to 7000. I rev the 6.0 to 7k with no issues
Seen this video like 30 times , great info. Would the gm radiator have fit? Making some mounting brackets ?
Honestly im not sure. As i never had the gm radiator to compare to. But ive got a buddy who used a c10 radiator and i believe, but dont remember for sure, he was able to reuse all the gm hoses and what not. I know he changed his mounting system though
How did you mount the engine and Transmission? I am buying a Ford Rollback 1990 and need to know how to mount the engine and transmission so they're level.
I made my own mounts. I believe i show them in the video. I also used the stock trans crossmember and built a spacer for it to raise the trans up. Had to move the crossmember.
Pretty easy to level it. Hold it with engine hoist. Make sure truck is level then just use a level on the engine. Tack in your 2 front mounts. Set it down with the trans on a jack and repeat leveling to desired position front to rear.
Doesnt have to be perfect. But pinion and yoke angle matters. Have to get that the same
What fitting did you use for the gear box to run -6an thanks
It's the last link in the video description.
@LS Bullnose Ok thanks man appreciate it
@@LSbullnose so -6an to 1/2"-20 inverted flare
@@bradleydunford725 no prob. Best of luck!
@@bradleydunford725 so, it's been a bit since I've been into it. But If I remember right, one of those fittings is mega long, where it holds part of the trans online. So I do not know if you can use just a regular ole fitting
On the drive shaft do you have a part number on the u joint/ yolk from shaft to diff. Connection id like to try and use gm shaft vs getting one made to much $$
i do not have that part number, but i called East Coast Gear supply and they hooked it right up
Great video!! Keep coming back to it for missed items, question on radiator any particular reason why you didn't use the chevy one? To much modifications to make it work? Or over all size won't work?
I didnt have the stock chevy one. I just bought the motor and trans/tcase. However, if i was going to redo it, id look into a C10 radiator. I *think* the hoses are real frigging close to fitting.
Never said how much it all costed at the end ??
what did you do for driveshaft ?
I used the stock GM shaft and had it retubed to add an extra couple inches. I think i explained it in the video. But dont remember. Anyways. I swapped the rear pinion yoke for one that fit the gm sized u-joints. Cant even remember the size anymore. 1350s maybe
What headers you use
Speed engineering
I have put more badass Chevrolet V8s in Fords than my co-workers have even gotten a Ford running I don't think any of them have actually gotten one running?
Did you have to push your trans crossmember back?
I did have to move it. And i had to build a spacer that sits on top of the factory AOD rubber spacer. Didnt have to move it far.
Would this be the same process on a 83 f150?
Very similar
Did you run air conditioning?
Not yet. I will though
Where's the babies mom jess
Right now she's in bed. Haha
This is just Unholy
Another LS swap ? Poor truck.
Ah there’s always one window licker in the room
Alright so I’m 16 about to 5.3 swap my 86 f150 5.0 and I’m just curious on how much it cost to be honest