Excellent explanation of the Valve and its function. My small development has recently experienced water heater pressure valves flowing and flooding basements. We have had numerous breaks in our water pipes thru out the development and I suspect that some of the cabins do not have these valves installed and ones that do may not be functioning properly due to sediment in them. Thanks
Wow, what a great and simple video and diagram that was relatively easy to understand, thank you! I can tell that you want others to understand what you're trying to explain more than you are trying to promote yourself. Another thanks! I have to install a regulator in a tight space with very limited possibility to install it in a certain orientation. Could you please let me know whether the orientation of the regulator is important? Does it have to be or is it better to install it with the adjusting nut toward the sky, or will this valve function equally well and be equally reliable if it's installed tilted sideways or upside down? Does the orientation affect how the strainer screen works or how debris might affect the valve long-term? Thanks for your advice!
My water pressure in the house is a bit low in the mornings but very high in the evenings to a point that i get some pvc joints bursting. Is it ok to install a water regulating valve to avoid too much pressure in the evening? But after doing that will i still get a good water pressure in the morning or nothing at all without adjusting the pressure?
No, you should install an expansion tank. Say that the valve reduces the pressure to 4 bar when closing the hot water tap. Now the cold water that just entered your tank will be heated and expand. The pressure in your house will rise. With no expansion tank the pressure relief valve on your boiler will blow off the pressure.
My PR valve has failed and I am at 100psi. It is outside the foundation and not easily accessible without some additional effort, may I abandon it and put a new one inside the crawl space, leaving the old one in place? Thankyou.
Technically yes! You may reduce the gallons per minute by doing so since it’s another restriction on the line, but ultimately you can and be safe. The ones that are in the ground can be super tricky in such a tight space. The only other issue you could have is that the first prv could eventually close, and then you’d be forced to deal with it in the future.
Not really. The issue that I’ve seen in the past is with city water, when a main breaks the sediment rushes in the pipes and it’s hard to control on the utility side. Ultimately you could put a filter before the prv but it would have to be something rated for high pressure but I have not ran into anything in the wild. Most water filters are going to be rated for pressure up to 80 lbs. not saying they aren’t out there. Just haven’t seen it.
put a pressure gauge on your outside hose bib...turn on few faucets and if it drops more than 20 psi than good sign pressure reducing valve is bad.....have your plumber install a pressure gauge right after the valve so you can monitor the pressure....
Once the mesh screen is clogged that is the beginning of the fail. The water should remain below the diaphragm in the model that I presented. You potentially had a diaphragm failure if you found rust and debris in your bell.
@@HomeRemedyLLC thanks. I have the same Zurn prv. The screen is clean. It just leaks to above the diaphragm. I have another smaller for for a 3/4 line and it did the same. These down last long. Perhaps it's the water hardness etc.
Are there prv on the market that allow for back flow pressure back to the city so that you don’t need an expansion tank for your hot water heater? I guess you’d call it a prv that’s an open system instead of closed.
I don’t believe an item as described would exist. Generally just past the water meter is a check valve (back flow preventer) to ensure that any contaminated water from your home would not go back into the drinking water supply. Basically all residential homes being fed by city water would fall under a closed loop system and an expansion tank would be required. Unless the city has terrible pressure below 80psi anyhow.
No. This is a pressure reducing valve, it is not a pressure regulator. To do that job you need a pump to press the excessive water back to the city tubing against its pressure. Something like the pump in a ABS brake system.
The best overall explanation of these pressure regulator that I've seen, thanx for sharing
Watched a few of these "How do they work: videos". Your explanation is by far the best. Thanks
Thank you for the feedback!! I’m glad it was helpful.
Brilliant, thank you 🙏🏾
Excellent explanation of the Valve and its function. My small development has recently experienced water heater pressure valves flowing and flooding basements. We have had numerous breaks in our water pipes thru out the development and I suspect that some of the cabins do not have these valves installed and ones that do may not be functioning properly due to sediment in them. Thanks
Didn’t know what it was or they existed lol. Nice work bro
Wow, what a great and simple video and diagram that was relatively easy to understand, thank you! I can tell that you want others to understand what you're trying to explain more than you are trying to promote yourself. Another thanks! I have to install a regulator in a tight space with very limited possibility to install it in a certain orientation. Could you please let me know whether the orientation of the regulator is important? Does it have to be or is it better to install it with the adjusting nut toward the sky, or will this valve function equally well and be equally reliable if it's installed tilted sideways or upside down? Does the orientation affect how the strainer screen works or how debris might affect the valve long-term? Thanks for your advice!
My water pressure in the house is a bit low in the mornings but very high in the evenings to a point that i get some pvc joints bursting. Is it ok to install a water regulating valve to avoid too much pressure in the evening? But after doing that will i still get a good water pressure in the morning or nothing at all without adjusting the pressure?
Replace vs repair, what are your thoughts? Considering it is for a 1 1/4 size. Thank you for explaining.
Great video! One question, I have water pressure 90 psi, can install a water pressure regulator without an expansion tank to water heater? Thanks!
You can. You can put the pressure reducing valve on the line coming into your home. This will let you adjust the pressure to the normal range.
No, you should install an expansion tank. Say that the valve reduces the pressure to 4 bar when closing the hot water tap. Now the cold water that just entered your tank will be heated and expand. The pressure in your house will rise. With no expansion tank the pressure relief valve on your boiler will blow off the pressure.
Solid video!!
Thanks
My PR valve has failed and I am at 100psi. It is outside the foundation and not easily accessible without some additional effort, may I abandon it and put a new one inside the crawl space, leaving the old one in place? Thankyou.
Technically yes! You may reduce the gallons per minute by doing so since it’s another restriction on the line, but ultimately you can and be safe. The ones that are in the ground can be super tricky in such a tight space. The only other issue you could have is that the first prv could eventually close, and then you’d be forced to deal with it in the future.
Dl you have recommendations on how to avoid having PRV's going bad ( per what you said, sedimen?
Not really. The issue that I’ve seen in the past is with city water, when a main breaks the sediment rushes in the pipes and it’s hard to control on the utility side. Ultimately you could put a filter before the prv but it would have to be something rated for high pressure but I have not ran into anything in the wild. Most water filters are going to be rated for pressure up to 80 lbs. not saying they aren’t out there. Just haven’t seen it.
your drawing skills melted me mind
now iq of a bannana
Everything in this video happened to me almost exactly as described here, all starting with a water main break down the street.
put a pressure gauge on your outside hose bib...turn on few faucets and if it drops more than 20 psi than good sign pressure reducing valve is bad.....have your plumber install a pressure gauge right after the valve so you can monitor the pressure....
Is it supposed to be dry in the bell area? I noticed mine leaks and all the internals are rusted. Did the gasket by the mesh screen that failed?
Once the mesh screen is clogged that is the beginning of the fail. The water should remain below the diaphragm in the model that I presented. You potentially had a diaphragm failure if you found rust and debris in your bell.
@@HomeRemedyLLC thanks. I have the same Zurn prv. The screen is clean. It just leaks to above the diaphragm. I have another smaller for for a 3/4 line and it did the same. These down last long. Perhaps it's the water hardness etc.
What is the difference between the PRV with red tag and green tag?
Are there prv on the market that allow for back flow pressure back to the city so that you don’t need an expansion tank for your hot water heater? I guess you’d call it a prv that’s an open system instead of closed.
I don’t believe an item as described would exist. Generally just past the water meter is a check valve (back flow preventer) to ensure that any contaminated water from your home would not go back into the drinking water supply. Basically all residential homes being fed by city water would fall under a closed loop system and an expansion tank would be required. Unless the city has terrible pressure below 80psi anyhow.
No. This is a pressure reducing valve, it is not a pressure regulator. To do that job you need a pump to press the excessive water back to the city tubing against its pressure. Something like the pump in a ABS brake system.