I just watched the whole series of this project. This video is my last. My comment, YOU are a man of heaven. You have a greatest videos, explanations, and qualities of working and recording. You were able to answer all my questions and fill up all my curiosities of what I should learn. If I do my project, there will be a big thanks to you and your channel. Best regards. Keep up. Thank you.
DANG... That makes me feel good!!!! Thank you Sir! IT has been a blast performing the work so far. I have really enjoyed the editing of the content in hopes that it someone would benefit. The response has been overwhelming. Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback... It is very encouraging!
UCanDoIt2 I have also seen your entire series and I am in the process of doing an ls swap I liked the simplicity of your harness setup but I was wondering what amperage rating did you use for the fuses?
The wire that had ~6VDC at the starter solenoid is the run voltage for the coil. When the solenoid is energized, it sends 12VDC for starting to the coil, and when the solenoid is de-energized, the voltage on that line falls back to 6DC for run. Great series of videos for this project. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! It did not make sense at the time. Your explanation reinforces what I found but did not understand. Thanks for clearing that up. Cheers. Mike
Its difficult to describe the value of excellent DIY content and their creators. Yourself and others open a world of possibilities for people with similar interests. Thank you.
WOW!!!! Your comment is extremely well received! I am greatly appreciative of you taking the time to share your thoughts. It makes me feel good and well worth the effort. Thank you!!!!!
Spent all day looking at wiring videos and couldn't understand much till I bumped into your videos. Learned soo much from your videos, the amount of information you put out is incredible. Thank you Keep up the great work!
Between you and the other guy who makes the gear head for life videos. I have learn alot but learn more from your videos then any one else. You really do take your time and show each step . So thank you for making each video no matter how long it is . If you keep making these kind of videos. I will keep watching them . keep up the great work. CAN'T WAIT TILL THE NEXT VIDEO COMES OUT. 👍
Thank you Melvin! We are having a lot of fun with the project and am really enjoying sharing it with good people like you!!!! I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. Thank you... Thank you!!!!!
Just started up my 5.3 that I built using the book and this video! So far runs smooth. Oil pressure idle is about 35psi or so which looks to be good! Thanks so much for the help! Couldn't have done it without you!
Holy moly wow. I just got my 5.3 lm7 and I'm going to put in my 78 custom deluxe C10. Scouring through the webs your videos showed up sooner than expected and you sir are good man. The motor is still in the trailer and I feel some weight lifted off seeing this. In advance I thank you for your series. 👏👏🙌🙌
I spent the day watching at the playlist of the LSX build, the only thing I can say is that your videos are awesome!!!! I don’t speak English 100% but you make this videos so easy to understand you explained every little detail and focus the camera always on the right direction!! I’m the kind of guy who likes to learn and make things by myself I was really afraid to do an LS Swap on my OBS truck but after watching your videos I believe I can do it and also I don’t feel afraid of doing it with a little more of research and a little help! Thanks and keep it up! You do an amazing job, and the best part of it is that your kids are involved on the project! Thanks again!!
I greatly appreciate that fact that you took the time to leave your feedback. I really enjoyed the research part of this project and learned a great deal along the way. It is definitely something the boys will remember and I will cherish for a long time. Thank you again!!!!
I have commented before and feel the need again. Your patience and willingness to teach others is commendable! The videos are clear, easy to understand and educational. Exceptional work, my friend...a true champion!!
I just spent my Sunday enjoying the whole series of LS7 videos. Thank you so much for sharing your project. It's hard to add a compliment that others have not already stated, but the professionalism you demonstrate is rarely seen on UA-cam. Additionally, I've enjoyed watching your boys spend time with Dad and I know they will really appreciate the time spent with you on the build as they grow older. Even though I'm a Jeep owner and I know 'It's a Jeep thing that others would not understand' I still really hate to see that beautiful engine get dirty. :)
Joe... Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback. It makes me smile!!!! It's really some cool stuff. We thoroughly enjoyed the work so far and are still slowly working through it. Cut out the Passenger floor board today. Cheers to you sir!!!!!!
Very cool! The engine is complete, and I am now doing some lite restoration work on the Jeep that it will be installed in. Once that is done.... Vaarrooooooom! Cheers!
Just finished watching the entire LS series. Have nothing more to say other than THANK YOU! This is something I have been searching for a long time. I just got a Chevy 350 rebuilt, and was planning on taking it back and getting a "bigger" cam, to help with my air intake setup I have. Thanks for your time! I've also noticed you've been off the grid for quite some time now, based on the last video about the floor restoration was posted; Hope all is well My Friend! Would love to see you complete that badass Jeep! 👍👍
Thank you Thank you! Noah... I appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback. Project Rowdy is still alive, but I had to change gears a little bit, so I have been acquiring some new parts. Cheers to you Sir!!!! Mike
A HUGE thanks to you sir for the time you dedicated to these videos! I especially appreciated your moniker: Learn, Plan, Execute. Just about any successful project can be traced back to these 3 simple (yet complex) rules. Learning the skills it takes to work on vehicles / machinery / equipment / etc. is not something that can be learned without effort. Too many of today's "wrenchers" tend to skip the basics and their project execution reflects this. Your humble videos and friendly advise are a breath of fresh air in a format which tends to reward corner/cutting over professionalism. A+ work. Subscribed.
Many thanks Bob!!! I appreciate your detailed feedback. So many viewers are looking for the quick message or fix... but it appears that you absorbed so much more. I love this platform as it provides me the opportunity to give back to the internet community. Again, thank you for taking the time to leave your feedback... Cheers!!!! Mike
Thank you sir! Your words are very kind! I am a very logical minded person and when I break things down in order to understand it, it just falls into place. I'll continue with the same approach since it appears to be working for some. THANK YOU!!!!!
just watched this whole series. amazing amazing amazing. is all i can say..im a gm tech and i can honestly say this is the only electrical video series including gm tech classes that ive actually stayed awake for lol. you showed me everything i needed to know about swaping my 4.8 into my yj. thank you and keep up the awsome work
I appreciate the king words and glad it kept you awake. My wife nodded of during part 2. I would tell her that I was going to work on the Board of Wires and she would roll her eyes. I really enjoyed it and glad that it will help you!!!!! Good luck with your project!!!!!
Until I just watched this series, I was intimidated to the point where I was considering buying a pre made harness. But, after watching, I am very confident in doing it myself. Thank you for making this. I'm ready to get my lq4 into my 94 c1500.
Awesome video..My wife and i are going to attempt to swap the engine out of my 86 C10 this summer. Your video's will differently be our guide in the process sir. Thanks for the amazing video's
Awesome videos!!!! These links should be posted all over swap sites!!! I am doing a Ls swap into a regal and 6 speed manual and I still have to do wiring I am thankful for these videos. I have no doubts about it now very very helpful can't wait to see engine install!!!
Thank you Anthony! Glad you found it useful and hope that others looking for this type of information can find it here or on some forums. There was a kid in High School that had a1978 Regal S/R with some awesome mag wheels. If I had know how to hotwire a car, it would have been mine! That thing was so sweet!
You do good work my man! Much appreciated! I am currently putting a lm7 into my jeep tj. After being led on for a year that someone was getting the work done. Needless to say I knew I should have done it myself from the get go and with the videos you've put out it's making the whole process a heck of a lot easier! Thanks!
You will have a lot more fun doing it yourself!!!!!! Not too difficult and a great excuse to possibly add a tool or two to your tool box. Thanks for the feedback and enjoy it!!!!!!
Watching all your videos gave me confidence to do my buddy's harness for his 68 c/10 swap! We picked up a never motor/ ecm but it's all the same principle
Your videos are so well done it has been a great help to me in my build. I watched all these harness videos and remember you mentioning a guy that used the Starter enabled relay control. I am working with a blue green pcm that has this function. You had a link or a name but now I'm having trouble finding it. Thanks
The channel name is Gary Garcia. Can’t remember if he went into detail on the subject or if he mentioned the theory that I picked up on. Thanks for the feedback and have fun with your project.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike what episode did you mention him and the idea of the pcm controlled starter. I would like to watch it again. Thanks for you quick reply.
I did find his and may give this a try. The main problem is I am using the S10 fuse block so there may be a another relay needed to make this work. Would be cool to get it functional. Thanks
another amazing video!!!!! if I could post a picture on here id send you my several wire diagrams I've made for my swap mainly for your videos. I'm a little confused but only because I don't have the harness in front of me.... Awesome videos sir. the more you post, the more ill watch!!!!!!! Also, thank you for the time you spend making videos and going step by step. By far the most educated videos on this swap....
Thank you Brian! I have been very fortunate to run into good people like you. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts. Are you having an issue with your harness? Cheers and have fun!
UCanDoIt2 well I haven't started being I'm over seas but I have everything I need on paper to the T! My issue is, is there a starter wire from the pcm? And if so, what would I do with my excising starter wire from the truck itself?
What year is your Harness and PCM? This is one of the point that I was making in the video. The Starter circuit is handled differently in different years.
UCanDoIt2 I don't have it but I'm hoping to find an 01. I'm overseas at the moment so I gathered all the extra information I didn't have for my swap bc I'm also swapping to a manual trans.... but just to be safe, I'd rather learn now instead of at the moment so I can tackle it and get it done. I know I'm going to tackle some difficulty but I'll at least have a more then general knowledge to do it right the first time. I have a 2001 engine without a harness.... I'll also be doing mods to it from other LS engines for more street performance..... but I really thank you for all of the help you've been providing to myself and so many other people!!!!!!!
You remind me of me! I started doing research for this project (casually) about 2 years ago! Just learning new things and getting my ducks in a row! Shouldn't be hard to grab a harness from a local salvage yard. But back to your question... I can speak from a 99-02 harness perspective. The PCM is not apart of the Starter circuit. The Starter has the following characteristics: 1) it is locally grounded by bolting it to the engine block which is a common ground, 2) there is one heavy gauge wire that essentially comes directly from the Battery which will supply the current to turn the starter, and 3) there is a Purple (+) wire that essentially goes to the Starter Solenoid (electric switch attached to the starter). The Purple wire comes from the Fuse C2 Block and is controlled by a Starter Relay (which I will add later).
Excellent series! I came across your videos because I’m thinking of rebuilding my Silverado’s engine (which is a LM7). Yours was the best one I found of just a simple breakdown and rebuild. Most everything else was how to sup it up and stuff (I don’t need all that...just want to get a good long life out of my truck). If you don’t mind sharing, do you remember a breakdown of cost on this rebuild? Parts, machining, etc?
I am so glad that you can see that this approach would be valuable in a Dodge application. Your Pin details will obviously be different, but these steps would mostly be similar. Cheers!!!!! Mike
I posted my first ever video to UA-cam (under Rollout1) last month when I bought the donor vehicle at an insurance auction. I hope to document the whole process the way you are doing with project Rowdy. In addition to your meticulous approach to the mechanics of your rebuild, I must say that your video production is most excellent. What software do you use for producing the videos?
I use Sony Vegas Movie Studio. It is only $45. I think it is very easy to use. There are plenty of YT videos on beginner and individual topics. I stay away from the cheesy transitions which makes me look like a pro!!!
Just spent the last 2 days binging every episode since the taredown, It is amazing the detail you went into. And the fact that there are just as many episodes on the wiring harness as the engine build emphasizes how important the computer is on modern engines. I think I would have always just assumed find a way to throw a carburetor on it or use an engine that can have a carb before dealing with the computer. But the way you break it down simplifies it, a lot. I am assuming you are going to have to get the ECU reprogrammed right? Otherwise you will have a million codes from missing O2 sensors, wheel speed sensor.... etc. not to mention the cam. How does that work? Do you tell them exactly what cam you have, what sensors you deleted and your vehicle set up and they program it from scratch? Or is the stock programming more adaptable than I am thinking? I would LOVE a video on this subject when it comes time. I can't wait to see this thing run. I am jealous. There is something so satisfying about projects like this that you are able to tare down, clean it, and start from scratch from beginning to end, yourself. Taring the harness down the way you did took away o lot of how overwhelming it is to me.
Many, many thanks for the kind words. My entire approach to this project was to break it all down so that it made sense to me and hopefully by recording and sharing, it would make sense to others as well. Cheer!!!!!! The original place that I was going to have reprogram my PCM has fallen through. Here is what I am expecting.... I would imagine that the Tuner will have a set of questions of things that I have deleted. They would also know to automatically remove things like VATS (vehicle antitheft). And that we would have a conversation on those changes so that they could incorporate the appropriate software changes. I bet, that once they understand what is needed, they will start with a "Template Configuration" and make a few mods, then upload it to my PCM. So I believe you were right on target with your question and as I read it, I was consistently saying yes, yes... Cheers and thanks for following along. I will be getting back on the body work of the vehicle soon. Cool stuff!!!!!
Your igntion actually runs on 6V through a resistor. The red wire comes off the ignition switch and through a resitor to feed the ignition module 6V, the red wire then continues on to the starter solenoid where it picks up a momentary 12V source from the small post there to "overdrive" the ignition for easier starting. The red wire you tested at the module will likely pull down to 6 volts when you put a load on it.
Great series! This is seriously the best tutorial for anything I've ever seen on youtube. My question, from what I can tell on your documentation there is only one data wire from the PCM to the OBD2 port. Is that the only wire needed to be able to see all the engine diagnostics? On my 02 Silverado with the 4.8 the OBD2 port has 5 wires to it, presumably power, 2 grounds, data and the 5th I don't know. (Plan on studying the wiring diagram for it.) Thank you!
Love your comment!!!!!! Thank you.. Your statement above is correct. One "Data" wire, an Unswitched Power, and 2 connectors are grounds. You will be able to TUNE and Read Diagnostics from the PCM. Cheers! Mike
Yep! It is the Starter Assist feature of the PCM controlling the Starter that offers the ability to have the "Push to Start" feature found in mist newer cars. Technically, it is a simple adaptation of the feature that has been present since 2003. And they like to charge you like they just re-invented the wheel!!!!
hey buddy, thanks for giving me credit! nice progress on the wiring, I will make a note that everything is hooked up to have pcm starter control on my suburban, however, it does not "latch" if you bump the key. I haven't been able to find out why this is not engaging, I do get anti grind though.
Great videos you have made first off. Secondly if you havent figured out the extra wire from the ignition module to the starter solenoid. It is so that A. The wire going to the ignition module/distributor is a resistive. They only needs 9ish volts to operate. But the engine starts alot better and easier with 12 volts. Whitch is being fed from the ignition solenoid wire. B. When you put the engine from"start" power to the "run" power is cut from the start terminal of the ignition switch and is fed from the power going to the ingition solenoid from the run terminal of the ingition switch.
Awesome! I believe I follow what you have stated. This explains what is going on with the current ignition solution and it doesn't indicate that I need to change my current plans. I plan to remove both the Ignition Module and the Starter Solenoid. I plan to tie into the two ignition related wires as they come through the firewall interface and eliminate any splitting of the wires. Thanks for the information!
Thank you my friend! I am certain that you will pick this up very quickly. You are a human sponge when it comes to soaking up automotive knowledge. Our engineering minds just need to be fed every once in a while. I love this stuff! Cheers!
You may find that the "Run" wire on the jeep which you are seeing 6v is being back-fed from the coil. This wire would see 12v when the starter solenoid is activated, giving the coil + 12v making the engine easier to start (stronger spark). Usually fitted to engines with resistor type coils (bypasses the resistor) I found this on my BBC 454
I'm curious what size fuses you are using. I've watched all of your videos about the 4 fuse harness and it doesn't seem to mention it. I'm doing mine exactly like yours for a 6.0L swap in a 1978 K10.
Great videos Mike, they really helped me tie together my harness. I have one question though. What size fuses go into the 4 fuse fuse block? Thank you for everything!
Great videos! Just trying to work out the electrical load requirements for various circuits. Looks like you're running all engine power through just two relays. Have you encountered any good links for explaining automotive electrical circuits and relay/fuse size requirements. You must be planning on adding all the jeeps extra accessories like lightbars, winches,etc. with an spod type distribution system with totally separate circuits.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes the Engine and it's harness is a completely separate electrical entity. It will have nothing to do with other Jeep component electrical circuits. "Just two relays"... actually only one of the two relays is involved in running the engine. There are two power sides (1) Always Hot and (2) Switched Hot. The Relay on the right of the diagram activates that Switched Hot side when your ignition switch is on. The Always Hot side is routed through 1 Fuse (15 amp) and the Switched Hot is separated into 3 Fuses (15 amps each). You can download the diagram from the description section below the video (Show More).... Hope that helps!!!
These videos are AWESOME! One question for you. The VATS need to be removed from the computer. Any way to do that with free software online? Also what other things need to be done to the computer in order to make it run? Assuming you could still tune it via a computer afterwards? Thanks Again.
These are great questions. I don't know of any software that is free that would allow you to reprogram the GM ECM Computer. I plan to use HP Tuners which requires the software and Tokens to access the ECM. There are companies online that you can send yours to and have them reprogram, but you need to document all of the changes you want so that they can do it in one swoop. The problem with that is if you upgrade any internal components, the ECM needs to be Tuned. Removing VATS is the only thing required to "make it run". However, while reprogramming, it makes sense to disable anything that would falsely generate a Check Engine Light (MIL) event. Since I removed the EGR and Rear O2 Sensors, that will be a few of the Triggers that I will disable. As far as Tuning the program. It is best to make known changes, then run the engine in the car and collect driving data. This will tell you where the computer had to make adjustments, then you go in and turn those adjustments into the default settings. There are tables in the ECM that have to be "smoothed". I am still working on the vehicle that this engine will be installed. I am waiting till I have the engine installed to make all of the changes that I plan. I have plenty of rough notes that I have collected and will review when that time comes. Hope this helps. Mike
So it's been a few yrs and I'm sure you're done with your jeep but I'm doing a swap on my truck and I'm wondering where/who ended up doing your PCU flash and tuning? Thx for great vids
In home restorations, a few years can turn into a few more years. I am still working on the Jeep. I plan to do the PCM flash updates myself. I have purchased HP Tuners and a couple of credits. I have already created some documentation that I plan to follow after the engine is installed in the vehicle. I will video that effort, but it is a while out. Cheers! Mike
I'm doing the same swap on an 86 CJ7- you're helping thousands of people. From the split bulkhead connector, I assume you're keeping the left side connector's wires intact (the headlights, turn signals wires). From the right side bulkhead connector, you're splicing into the 2 wires (blue & red w/ white tracer) that go into the old Jeep ECU. What other wires will you use that come out of the right side bulkhead connector? Thanks for all your work.
My plans are to install a new Jeep Body wiring harness which will completely replace the fire wall split connector. That wire is old, weathered, and stories of it being a lower grade wire.... I want to avoid future issues. That harness will resemble the one that I analyzed in this video. I will still only need to find a Switched 12V+, Constant 12V+, and Ignition wires to connect it to the Engine Wiring Harness. These old Jeeps do not have an ECU. They did have a Ignition module (on the Driver's side fender well). That module is not needed for the new engine. The engine and engine harness pretty much runs independent from the Jeep harness. And Yes... the Headlight and "Grill" area legs of the harness are independent of all this engine stuff and remain unchanged (other than my plans for the new Body harness). Hope that helps! Thanks for following along... It's up to us to keep these ole Jeep alive. Cheers and have a blast with yours!!! Mike
Thank you so much for these videos they definitely give me a good overview before I begin, one question though, won't you need a tune to remove the sensors you've removed so the ECM won't be looking for them?
Thanks for the feedback. Yes the PCM will need to be re-programmed to remove VATs and other items that I have removed so that erroneous codes are not thrown for items that are not present. I still have to installed the engine and I am waiting until then so I can test the tune and it would still be available for tweaking. I do not plan to reprogram myself.
This may or may not have any thing to do with this vehicle but it used to be that a starter relay had another connection usually marked R. There used to be a ballast resister that lower we the voltage to the coil but the R got connected to the other side of the resister so during cranking when the voltage was low due to the starters draw the coil would get the full available voltage to help the engine start easier. I can't see the schematic well enough to follow it but it's a possible reason and if not, you may still run into this at some point on some other project. You seem super thorough so I thought I'd add this for your consideration.
Great videos. By chance did you ever do a continuity test across each connector in your rewired loom to check to be sure both the connections are complete and there's no breaks in the wire underneath? Also curious if that larger gauge wire you used to continue the purple wire would draw more amps and confuse the computer. If I recall that goes to your starter, and not sure if amps are measured, perhaps to prevent overdraw when a starter is locked on or too resistant due to heat or wear to crank.
VacFink I did not do any continuity check between end of each wire. The original harness appeared to be in good condition so I did not see the need. If there is an issue down the road, I can take care of it individually at that time. The wire that I used to extend the purple starter wire is of the same gauge. I should not see any issues there. It is the trigger wire for the Starter Solenoid. The starter motor gets its positive connection directly from the battery.
A larger wire can carry more amps without letting the smoke out, but does not draw more amps by itself. It would technically drawslightly less amps due to lower resistance, but in this case were talking about a very small fraction of an amp on a 10 amp circuit. Also, that wire is not carrying the current that turns the starter, it is carrying the current that runs the electromagnet that pulls the solenoid armature in to connect the battery cable to the starter motor. Another way to look at it is the starter solenoid is just a really big (400+ amp) relay, and his purple / red wire is the trigger wire for the relay.
One question sir. I’m working on my harnesses (obs and ls) I know where to connect the tcc wire from the harness but where do I connect the tcc wire from the pcm?
Sorry, but my solution and research has been for installing my engine in front of a Manual transmission so I do not plan to use the TCC circuit. Someone else might be able to provide you help. Mike
Question: theoretically, if you didn't do all this and wanted to run a stock harness so that you can bench run a motor, all you would need to do is power the pink wire and purple/now red wire(out of the 4 wires leaving fuse junction) and that harness would have all the power it needs to run? Not sure if I'm asking or stating a fact. Lol thanks in advance
I believe you are correct in that you can power the proper wires in the stock harness and get the engine to run (Pinks, Orange, Ground, and come up with a Starter Solution Purple).
Could the pink wire be connected to “run and crank” or should it just be connected to “run” only. My fuse block has a fused plug-in labeled IGN which is hot in the run and the start positions. Any reason why that wouldn’t work for the pink wire?
That would work just fine. It implies that you will have +12V on your Pink circuit in Run and during the momentary Crank positions. No harm there. Mike
I have a question about the yellow wire (the fuel pump wire) is that sending out a 12v + signal or ground signal because for my Ls swap my plug into the fuel pump takes a ground signal?
For my configuration and in my drawing, the Yellow Fuel Pump Wire is a +12V Feed wire. I’m looking at my diagram and believe, if you are wanting to use a similar solution to provide Ground. You could do that by simply changing out the Orange Wire for a Ground wire. Then when the PCM triggers the relay with the Green wire, the Yellow wire would be providing a Ground to your pump.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I just looked but that orange wire that it is connected too is a battery PCM battery supply so don't I need to keep that? If so would I do with the orange wire? sorry I am just alittle confused.
So I believe you said (I’m not so many words), that you need the PCMs Green wire trigger to turn on your fuel pump by providing a Negative signal. Right now my diagram provide a Positive signal. To change that, you would need to change what is going IN the relay at the right (according to my drawing) to be a Wire providing A negative connection and not providing a positive (+12v as the current Orange wire is doing.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'm just confused now I was talking about the orange wire. I also sent you an email showing how I believe mine is supposed to be wired I am just not sure how it to wire it up too yours.
Thank you so much for the series! This has helped me so much. I have a ppl wire left over tho that came off the c100 connector called “starter solonid”. Is that what needs to go to the run position?
Yes. When the Ignition is turned to the "Start" position, 12V+ will be sent through the Purple Wire to the Starter Soleniod. This activates the Solenoid which closes another 12V+ circuit that powers the Starter. Cheers!
Great stuff. I'll use much of your hard work as I move forward with my swap along with lt1swap.com. Any chance we can see more of your install? Episodes 1-18 just left me wanting more! Thanks!
I just watched all your LS wiring harness videos. Thank you so much. They are very nicely done. I want to be able to do stuff really right and do it myself, which is what these videos will help me to do. I am curious about how to tweak the PCM to remove the VATS and all the other features and codes that will no longer be used. Do you have thoughts on how to do that?
My plans are to hire that out. I have programming experience and could learn how to use the HPTuner s/w, but don’t need to spend the time. Typically you would download the current s/w configuration from the pcm, make changes, the upload the new config to the pcm. Most guys that do a lot of these have “files” ready to upload with slight tweaking based on your config. VATS is one of the things that is most often disabled. Hope this helps.
hey sir! I know I bug you with questions and comments on your video, which are great by the way but I want to run an idea by you and maybe see a second approach....... so I have a 1980 chevy k10. I have a 4.8/5.3 but o harness which is no big deal just gives me more time for a more simpler and better approach before I tackle any wiring... so I want to run the pcm and maybe the relays into the cab under the dash(to be determined). I know ill have to extend the harness and re-route the stock wiring location which is fine... but my idea was to have a waterproof connector in between the pcm and harness attached to the engine. this will allow me to utilize a smaller diameter hole in the firewall and easier to disconnect for easier mainence when needed.... I know its sketchy with another potential area to be a problem but I want to keep the pcm clean and out of the elements and clean up from under the hood so it doesn't look like I threw duct tape and gorilla glue at it in hopes it'll fix itself.... what is your thoughts and/or approach?
First of all Brian, I always enjoy your comments. They are always encouraging and most require some thought like this one. Sounds like you are thinking about some form of a bulkhead connector. I like the idea of the PCM under the dash and out of the engine bay (very clean). As you mentioned, this will require you to extend every wire. So the two options are 1) Hard solder the extensions and cut a hole in the firewall large enough to pass the PCM connectors. Then use a rubber grommet to close the hole. This would be a large grommet and IT would dictate the hole size/shape in the firewall. 2) Strategically plan your splice at the firewall and use a bulkhead connector so that it can be disconnected there. Problem might be finding one with enough pins to accommodate. Both are good options. Both suggest that you might be better off buying 2 harnesses. Cutting one near the PCM for your Engine side portion and cutting the other near the sensors for your PCM side portion. Then join with option 1 or 2. Good stuff!!!
UCanDoIt2 Yeah exactly!!!! I was thinking of using a stock bulkhead from another vehicle that has enough connecting ports and do one wire at a time.... it involves a lot of work but maybe something to do.... and I like the second harness idea bc I can probably buy one that's all boogered up for a few dollars.... I'll confided your options... bc I would really like to use butt connectors and hard solder for better and stronger connectivity..... but I don't want to drill a 1.5" hole in the firewall if I can just drill a little square and provide a better seal as I will be off-roading slightly for camping and stuff so I'm trying to think of longevity but dependability and accessibility justincase I need to pull the engine or change cabs or access wiring later on down the road..... but really THANK YOU for all your advise and I'm sure I'll think of some other idea....... thanks again sir for everything
The pcms are the same from 99 to 06 gmt800 trucks the pcms with the last three numbers of 411 known as a 411 pcm have more functionality so you should be able to set the starter time you want
I noticed that the 2003 and Up Harness contained some additional wires and PCM related pin for this on the Blue/Green connector style harness. The pinning of my Blue/Red connector harness was not wired for it. Interesting that the PCM has the capability. Good to know! Thanks for sharing!!!
Well that is a very nice compliment! Thank you. Brendan has put together an incredible site and it provided me the confidence and direction to keep my project on track. Cheers!
To be honest, I am not sure what that circuit is for. It is labeled as OUTPUT. Therefore, I assume that it goes to the Dash. I would have to check, but I do not think my harness had a wire in this port (R38). The vehicle that I am swapping my motor into will use an independent (has nothing to do with the Engine Harness or PCM) circuits for the Fuel Level.
Awesome videos. I plan on doing a LS swap in a squarebody Chevy truck next Spring (If funds allow) and doing my research now! I have bookmarked all of them and I'm sure I'll add a few numbers to the views lol. Just a quick question though! Are you having your PCM tuned? I noticed you're removing the rear o2 sensors. Is this beast going to be cat-free? That is the only thing I don't really get so far as it would probably throw a CEL without those rear 2 o2's. I hope I worded that right. Thanks again!
I would love to do an old truck one day. Yours should be a fun project. Yes, the PCM will need to be reprogrammed to "Delete" several standard feature to eliminate throwing codes. VATs (Vehicle Antitheft), Rear O2s, EGR, anything Automatic Transmission based, etc. To be honest, I don't know all the answers... I will be sending it off for the re-programming and expect them to ask the appropriate questions. I don't have much concern on how this is going to work out. Best of luck with your research (my favorite part) and your build!!!!!!!
my question is, why were you only getting 6v at the solenoid? is there an ohm issue with the wire running from the junction that you tested last that had the 11v?
There should not be a difference in Voltage taken at those two points. They essentially the same. When I take out this engine and remove the Starter Solenoid, I will trace that wire back through the loom and see if it is wired differently than the diagram. I need to find that splice anyway and terminate the Solenoid segment of wire.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the solenoid gets partial voltage (baby blue wire) to energize similar to a coil, and full voltage in key position 2 to induce the starter. Just watched the LS build and harness videos. You are THE MAN! You take the fear out of the average Joe doing the job themselves. Great work. Two thumbs up to you and your sons.
jerellis1983 The PCM computer does need to be reprogrammed. An example would be to at least remove the VATS (vehicle anti theft) functionality. It will only run for a few seconds with out mod. You would also want to have any other items that you have removed the sensors to be disabled in the computer so that you do not get false Check engine warnings or throw inappropriate codes.
I need to pick your brain again. Im using a 99 to 01 Silverado computer but im using an 07 Cadillac STS drop in MAF sensor. Im having a hard time finding a wiring diagram. Both Setups run a 5 pin connector.
Sounds like you are going to need to find the pin specs for the new MAF and validate that it is pinned like the harness is expecting. If not, you can cut and splice the harness wires at the connector to make the required adjustment.
I was hoping you had them lol. I think i just figured it out though. The ground was in a different location. Im going to swap it out tomorrow and see what happens.
This wiring harness approach will create a solution that will allow you to drop this engine into anything with four wheels and connecting the main four wires, it will fire. You will/may have to make some different decisions if you are running an automatic transmission, my will be a Manual. You will have to research and figure out how to connect to your dash instrumentation.
The wiring process shown in this video series is not vehicle specific. You can drop this engine and harness in any vehicle that it will physically fit and make it work.
I believe you are referring to the 8 Pin Connector that I added to the harness. This connector just needs to be compatible with itself. It is being used to allow me to install the engine and harness and then attach the mating connector which will have custom connections to the accessories. Think of it a disconnection point.
Thank you bro needed that and when u say mating u mean that’s on your oem harness because ik you doing a swap and one more thing once the Ls is rebuild do u have to set the timing thought gm left that in the past with the 305 etc
Let me describe the 4 wires again (based on how they look the 2:00 mark of this video.(1) Left RED Wire - There is a large gauge Purple wire coming from the Starter Solenoid that is spliced over to this Red (looks Pink in the video) wire. In my wiring diagram, it is labeled as the Purple Wire. This wire will need to be connected so that it get + when the key is turned to start.(2) Left Center RED Wire - This needs to essentially be connected strait to the Battery. There are many creative ways to do this. I will show more details when my project Jeep gets to that point. You can get creative.(3) PINK Wire - This is your Keyed Positive. Is need to be connected to the ignition switch so that when the Key is IN and Turned to the 1st position, You get a + Feed.(4) Right Yellow Wire - This will be run back to the Fuel pump and connected to the Positive side. When the PCM requests the Fuel Pump to be on, it will send positive voltage to the Fuel Pump Relay, then the Fuel Pump Relay will supply the Positive Current Voltage to the Fuel Pump. The Fuel Pump will be locally grounded.Does this help????
I'm commenting before I finish watching which is probably a miatake, I believe you're getting 6 volts because it's back feeding from your ballast resister.
I believe you can. You should properly address the cut ends of the wires. i.e. tape them. From an electrical standpoint, it should not matter if the PCM terminates a circuit (not wire) or it has been extended and then terminated. Just my opinion.
When the time comes, I will have to find a place that I can send it to. Most likely will have to mail it off. I have been holding off on getting it done until I was closer to needing it so that if small adjustments needed to be made, it would be covered under the "new" tweaks.
Blackbear tuning does mail order tuning. Have you thought about grabbing hptuners and tune it yourself? As long as you still have the aldl port that is. Loving the build though. I'm doing a single turbo 4.8/tr6060 in an 05 cavalier sedan with my kids.
I thought about doing it my self for about 2 minutes!!! I do various computer programming for a living so figuring out the program would not be a problem. I have seen several good tutorials, but would need to really dig deeper to feel confident with tackling it myself. For some reason, I am just not interested in it. I think mostly because of the software/credits and the fact that I probably would not use it again. I am kind of a "Set it and Forget it" kind of guy. Not really interested in tinkering with it. My setup will have the OBD2 port which is what it would require.
UCanDoIt2 okay no problem I truly understand I'm a truck driver and I just don't have time myself do you have a video of the Jeep running with the Ls swap
Awesome! I did get a chance to watch your video and plan to catch-up on your build progress. Glad you found the information useful. Have fun with your project. looking forward to updates!!!!
I just watched the whole series of this project. This video is my last. My comment, YOU are a man of heaven. You have a greatest videos, explanations, and qualities of working and recording. You were able to answer all my questions and fill up all my curiosities of what I should learn. If I do my project, there will be a big thanks to you and your channel. Best regards. Keep up. Thank you.
DANG... That makes me feel good!!!! Thank you Sir! IT has been a blast performing the work so far. I have really enjoyed the editing of the content in hopes that it someone would benefit. The response has been overwhelming. Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback... It is very encouraging!
UCanDoIt2 I have also seen your entire series and I am in the process of doing an ls swap I liked the simplicity of your harness setup but I was wondering what amperage rating did you use for the fuses?
4 years later. Still the best video series on UA-cam.
I greatly appreciate this comment. Glad you have enjoyed it. Cheers to you Sir!!!! Mike
The wire that had ~6VDC at the starter solenoid is the run voltage for the coil. When the solenoid is energized, it sends 12VDC for starting to the coil, and when the solenoid is de-energized, the voltage on that line falls back to 6DC for run. Great series of videos for this project. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! It did not make sense at the time. Your explanation reinforces what I found but did not understand. Thanks for clearing that up. Cheers. Mike
I was going to mention this. Those old distributor/coil solenoid and grey magic box were headaches for me in mid 80's ('77 Ford 351M).
Its difficult to describe the value of excellent DIY content and their creators. Yourself and others open a world of possibilities for people with similar interests. Thank you.
WOW!!!! Your comment is extremely well received! I am greatly appreciative of you taking the time to share your thoughts. It makes me feel good and well worth the effort. Thank you!!!!!
Spent all day looking at wiring videos and couldn't understand much till I bumped into your videos. Learned soo much from your videos, the amount of information you put out is incredible.
Thank you
Keep up the great work!
TJ Piñata Glad you found them useful Cheers and thanks for the feedback.
I was on a long drive to pick a 5.3 up and played your video listening not watching very enjoyable I'll rewatch it great job and didn't get boring
Very cool story! Let the fun and excitement begin!!!!! Have fun with yours!!! Mike
Between you and the other guy who makes the gear head for life videos. I have learn alot but learn more from your videos then any one else. You really do take your time and show each step . So thank you for making each video no matter how long it is . If you keep making these kind of videos. I will keep watching them . keep up the great work. CAN'T WAIT TILL THE NEXT VIDEO COMES OUT. 👍
Thank you Melvin! We are having a lot of fun with the project and am really enjoying sharing it with good people like you!!!! I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. Thank you... Thank you!!!!!
Just started up my 5.3 that I built using the book and this video! So far runs smooth. Oil pressure idle is about 35psi or so which looks to be good! Thanks so much for the help! Couldn't have done it without you!
Congratulations on your build! Writing this with a huge smile on my face. Cheers to you... Mike
Holy moly wow. I just got my 5.3 lm7 and I'm going to put in my 78 custom deluxe C10. Scouring through the webs your videos showed up sooner than expected and you sir are good man. The motor is still in the trailer and I feel some weight lifted off seeing this. In advance I thank you for your series. 👏👏🙌🙌
Thank for putting a big smile on my face! Love the comment! Best of luck and have a blast with yours.... Cheers. Mike!
Your videos don't get the attention you deserve. I've watched the whole series. Well done and thank you.
Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate the support. Cheers! Mike
I spent the day watching at the playlist of the LSX build, the only thing I can say is that your videos are awesome!!!! I don’t speak English 100% but you make this videos so easy to understand you explained every little detail and focus the camera always on the right direction!! I’m the kind of guy who likes to learn and make things by myself I was really afraid to do an LS Swap on my OBS truck but after watching your videos I believe I can do it and also I don’t feel afraid of doing it with a little more of research and a little help! Thanks and keep it up! You do an amazing job, and the best part of it is that your kids are involved on the project! Thanks again!!
I greatly appreciate that fact that you took the time to leave your feedback. I really enjoyed the research part of this project and learned a great deal along the way. It is definitely something the boys will remember and I will cherish for a long time. Thank you again!!!!
I have commented before and feel the need again. Your patience and willingness to teach others is commendable! The videos are clear, easy to understand and educational. Exceptional work, my friend...a true champion!!
Thank you! Thank you! Very appreciative of you taking the time to share your feedback!
I just spent my Sunday enjoying the whole series of LS7 videos. Thank you so much for sharing your project. It's hard to add a compliment that others have not already stated, but the professionalism you demonstrate is rarely seen on UA-cam. Additionally, I've enjoyed watching your boys spend time with Dad and I know they will really appreciate the time spent with you on the build as they grow older.
Even though I'm a Jeep owner and I know 'It's a Jeep thing that others would not understand' I still really hate to see that beautiful engine get dirty. :)
Joe... Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback. It makes me smile!!!! It's really some cool stuff. We thoroughly enjoyed the work so far and are still slowly working through it. Cut out the Passenger floor board today. Cheers to you sir!!!!!!
I am watching these in order. I am excited to hear the motor run...but I am staying disciplined to watch them all in order. Thanks for the lessons
Very cool! The engine is complete, and I am now doing some lite restoration work on the Jeep that it will be installed in. Once that is done.... Vaarrooooooom! Cheers!
Just finished watching the entire LS series.
Have nothing more to say other than THANK YOU! This is something I have been searching for a long time. I just got a Chevy 350 rebuilt, and was planning on taking it back and getting a "bigger" cam, to help with my air intake setup I have. Thanks for your time!
I've also noticed you've been off the grid for quite some time now, based on the last video about the floor restoration was posted; Hope all is well My Friend! Would love to see you complete that badass Jeep! 👍👍
Thank you Thank you! Noah... I appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback. Project Rowdy is still alive, but I had to change gears a little bit, so I have been acquiring some new parts. Cheers to you Sir!!!! Mike
This how to harness videos are by far the best ones ever. So detailed. So helpful cleared every questions I had
I greatly appreciate the positive feedback! Thanks and enjoy your projects!
A HUGE thanks to you sir for the time you dedicated to these videos! I especially appreciated your moniker: Learn, Plan, Execute. Just about any successful project can be traced back to these 3 simple (yet complex) rules. Learning the skills it takes to work on vehicles / machinery / equipment / etc. is not something that can be learned without effort. Too many of today's "wrenchers" tend to skip the basics and their project execution reflects this. Your humble videos and friendly advise are a breath of fresh air in a format which tends to reward corner/cutting over professionalism. A+ work. Subscribed.
Many thanks Bob!!! I appreciate your detailed feedback. So many viewers are looking for the quick message or fix... but it appears that you absorbed so much more. I love this platform as it provides me the opportunity to give back to the internet community. Again, thank you for taking the time to leave your feedback... Cheers!!!! Mike
Your knowledge and natural ability to teach is beyond amazing! It's definitely a gift! Thanks again for another GREAT video! 👍🏼
Thank you sir! Your words are very kind! I am a very logical minded person and when I break things down in order to understand it, it just falls into place. I'll continue with the same approach since it appears to be working for some. THANK YOU!!!!!
just watched this whole series. amazing amazing amazing. is all i can say..im a gm tech and i can honestly say this is the only electrical video series including gm tech classes that ive actually stayed awake for lol. you showed me everything i needed to know about swaping my 4.8 into my yj. thank you and keep up the awsome work
I appreciate the king words and glad it kept you awake. My wife nodded of during part 2. I would tell her that I was going to work on the Board of Wires and she would roll her eyes. I really enjoyed it and glad that it will help you!!!!! Good luck with your project!!!!!
excellent videos. very informative
Until I just watched this series, I was intimidated to the point where I was considering buying a pre made harness. But, after watching, I am very confident in doing it myself. Thank you for making this. I'm ready to get my lq4 into my 94 c1500.
Awesome! Sometimes it takes understanding a good plan and then go for it. Cheers... Mike
Awesome video..My wife and i are going to attempt to swap the engine out of my 86 C10 this summer. Your video's will differently be our guide in the process sir. Thanks for the amazing video's
Love the sound of your project. Love the ole C10s. Cheers and enjoy the process and time with your wife. Mike.
Crazy detail. This is what I've been looking for thank you for going so far into detail and resons for what you do what you do. Keep it up!
Happy that you enjoyed it and found it useful! Thanks for taking the time to provide me this feedback. Smiling!!!!!
Awesome videos!!!! These links should be posted all over swap sites!!! I am doing a Ls swap into a regal and 6 speed manual and I still have to do wiring I am thankful for these videos. I have no doubts about it now very very helpful can't wait to see engine install!!!
Thank you Anthony! Glad you found it useful and hope that others looking for this type of information can find it here or on some forums. There was a kid in High School that had a1978 Regal S/R with some awesome mag wheels. If I had know how to hotwire a car, it would have been mine! That thing was so sweet!
You do good work my man! Much appreciated! I am currently putting a lm7 into my jeep tj. After being led on for a year that someone was getting the work done. Needless to say I knew I should have done it myself from the get go and with the videos you've put out it's making the whole process a heck of a lot easier! Thanks!
You will have a lot more fun doing it yourself!!!!!! Not too difficult and a great excuse to possibly add a tool or two to your tool box. Thanks for the feedback and enjoy it!!!!!!
i like these type of videos. Share the knowledge as you go. Good job.
Thank you Robert! I appreciate the feedback. Cheers! Mike
Watching all your videos gave me confidence to do my buddy's harness for his 68 c/10 swap! We picked up a never motor/ ecm but it's all the same principle
That is awesome! And your right... All basically the same principle! Take care!!!!
thank you people like you that give info us we need need
Glad you found it useful! Cheers to you Sir!
You rock brother. Thank you for taking the time you put into these instructional videos. Very appreciative.
Thank you sir! We had a great time working on this project and enjoyed sharing it with fine people like you!!!!!!
Your videos are so well done it has been a great help to me in my build. I watched all these harness videos and remember you mentioning a guy that used the Starter enabled relay control. I am working with a blue green pcm that has this function. You had a link or a name but now I'm having trouble finding it. Thanks
The channel name is Gary Garcia. Can’t remember if he went into detail on the subject or if he mentioned the theory that I picked up on. Thanks for the feedback and have fun with your project.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike what episode did you mention him and the idea of the pcm controlled starter. I would like to watch it again. Thanks for you quick reply.
You’ll have to scan through his videos. Not sure which one it was. One of his wiring videos.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike actually i wanted to know what one of your videos did you mention him. Thanks
I did find his and may give this a try. The main problem is I am using the S10 fuse block so there may be a another relay needed to make this work. Would be cool to get it functional. Thanks
another amazing video!!!!! if I could post a picture on here id send you my several wire diagrams I've made for my swap mainly for your videos. I'm a little confused but only because I don't have the harness in front of me.... Awesome videos sir. the more you post, the more ill watch!!!!!!! Also, thank you for the time you spend making videos and going step by step. By far the most educated videos on this swap....
Thank you Brian! I have been very fortunate to run into good people like you. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts. Are you having an issue with your harness? Cheers and have fun!
UCanDoIt2 well I haven't started being I'm over seas but I have everything I need on paper to the T! My issue is, is there a starter wire from the pcm? And if so, what would I do with my excising starter wire from the truck itself?
What year is your Harness and PCM? This is one of the point that I was making in the video. The Starter circuit is handled differently in different years.
UCanDoIt2 I don't have it but I'm hoping to find an 01. I'm overseas at the moment so I gathered all the extra information I didn't have for my swap bc I'm also swapping to a manual trans.... but just to be safe, I'd rather learn now instead of at the moment so I can tackle it and get it done. I know I'm going to tackle some difficulty but I'll at least have a more then general knowledge to do it right the first time. I have a 2001 engine without a harness.... I'll also be doing mods to it from other LS engines for more street performance..... but I really thank you for all of the help you've been providing to myself and so many other people!!!!!!!
You remind me of me! I started doing research for this project (casually) about 2 years ago! Just learning new things and getting my ducks in a row! Shouldn't be hard to grab a harness from a local salvage yard. But back to your question... I can speak from a 99-02 harness perspective. The PCM is not apart of the Starter circuit. The Starter has the following characteristics: 1) it is locally grounded by bolting it to the engine block which is a common ground, 2) there is one heavy gauge wire that essentially comes directly from the Battery which will supply the current to turn the starter, and 3) there is a Purple (+) wire that essentially goes to the Starter Solenoid (electric switch attached to the starter). The Purple wire comes from the Fuse C2 Block and is controlled by a Starter Relay (which I will add later).
Excellent series! I came across your videos because I’m thinking of rebuilding my Silverado’s engine (which is a LM7). Yours was the best one I found of just a simple breakdown and rebuild. Most everything else was how to sup it up and stuff (I don’t need all that...just want to get a good long life out of my truck).
If you don’t mind sharing, do you remember a breakdown of cost on this rebuild? Parts, machining, etc?
Glad you enjoyed the series. Best of luck and have fun with your project.
Great wiring series! I hope to apply a lot of what you just demonstrated when doing a Hemi engine swap into my 2005 Jeep LJ.
I am so glad that you can see that this approach would be valuable in a Dodge application. Your Pin details will obviously be different, but these steps would mostly be similar. Cheers!!!!! Mike
I posted my first ever video to UA-cam (under Rollout1) last month when I bought the donor vehicle at an insurance auction. I hope to document the whole process the way you are doing with project Rowdy. In addition to your meticulous approach to the mechanics of your rebuild, I must say that your video production is most excellent. What software do you use for producing the videos?
I use Sony Vegas Movie Studio. It is only $45. I think it is very easy to use. There are plenty of YT videos on beginner and individual topics. I stay away from the cheesy transitions which makes me look like a pro!!!
Just spent the last 2 days binging every episode since the taredown, It is amazing the detail you went into. And the fact that there are just as many episodes on the wiring harness as the engine build emphasizes how important the computer is on modern engines. I think I would have always just assumed find a way to throw a carburetor on it or use an engine that can have a carb before dealing with the computer. But the way you break it down simplifies it, a lot. I am assuming you are going to have to get the ECU reprogrammed right? Otherwise you will have a million codes from missing O2 sensors, wheel speed sensor.... etc. not to mention the cam.
How does that work? Do you tell them exactly what cam you have, what sensors you deleted and your vehicle set up and they program it from scratch? Or is the stock programming more adaptable than I am thinking? I would LOVE a video on this subject when it comes time.
I can't wait to see this thing run. I am jealous. There is something so satisfying about projects like this that you are able to tare down, clean it, and start from scratch from beginning to end, yourself. Taring the harness down the way you did took away o lot of how overwhelming it is to me.
Many, many thanks for the kind words. My entire approach to this project was to break it all down so that it made sense to me and hopefully by recording and sharing, it would make sense to others as well. Cheer!!!!!! The original place that I was going to have reprogram my PCM has fallen through. Here is what I am expecting.... I would imagine that the Tuner will have a set of questions of things that I have deleted. They would also know to automatically remove things like VATS (vehicle antitheft). And that we would have a conversation on those changes so that they could incorporate the appropriate software changes. I bet, that once they understand what is needed, they will start with a "Template Configuration" and make a few mods, then upload it to my PCM. So I believe you were right on target with your question and as I read it, I was consistently saying yes, yes... Cheers and thanks for following along. I will be getting back on the body work of the vehicle soon. Cool stuff!!!!!
Your igntion actually runs on 6V through a resistor. The red wire comes off the ignition switch and through a resitor to feed the ignition module 6V, the red wire then continues on to the starter solenoid where it picks up a momentary 12V source from the small post there to "overdrive" the ignition for easier starting. The red wire you tested at the module will likely pull down to 6 volts when you put a load on it.
Thank you for this explanation. I had another response, but yours is very thorough. Thanks. Mike
Great series! This is seriously the best tutorial for anything I've ever seen on youtube. My question, from what I can tell on your documentation there is only one data wire from the PCM to the OBD2 port. Is that the only wire needed to be able to see all the engine diagnostics? On my 02 Silverado with the 4.8 the OBD2 port has 5 wires to it, presumably power, 2 grounds, data and the 5th I don't know. (Plan on studying the wiring diagram for it.) Thank you!
Love your comment!!!!!! Thank you.. Your statement above is correct. One "Data" wire, an Unswitched Power, and 2 connectors are grounds. You will be able to TUNE and Read Diagnostics from the PCM. Cheers! Mike
Awesome, thanks!
Good idea. Most late models are all remote start, ha they key is just for show.
Yep! It is the Starter Assist feature of the PCM controlling the Starter that offers the ability to have the "Push to Start" feature found in mist newer cars. Technically, it is a simple adaptation of the feature that has been present since 2003. And they like to charge you like they just re-invented the wheel!!!!
hey buddy, thanks for giving me credit! nice progress on the wiring, I will make a note that everything is hooked up to have pcm starter control on my suburban, however, it does not "latch" if you bump the key. I haven't been able to find out why this is not engaging, I do get anti grind though.
No problem... Thanks for the inspiration. I learned a lot and your video made me think through it. Cool Stuff!
Great videos you have made first off. Secondly if you havent figured out the extra wire from the ignition module to the starter solenoid. It is so that A. The wire going to the ignition module/distributor is a resistive. They only needs 9ish volts to operate. But the engine starts alot better and easier with 12 volts. Whitch is being fed from the ignition solenoid wire. B. When you put the engine from"start" power to the "run" power is cut from the start terminal of the ignition switch and is fed from the power going to the ingition solenoid from the run terminal of the ingition switch.
Awesome! I believe I follow what you have stated. This explains what is going on with the current ignition solution and it doesn't indicate that I need to change my current plans. I plan to remove both the Ignition Module and the Starter Solenoid. I plan to tie into the two ignition related wires as they come through the firewall interface and eliminate any splitting of the wires. Thanks for the information!
nice Mike I'm buying my harness from a guy out in California so it's time to study! you've done such a great job with your channel!
Thank you my friend! I am certain that you will pick this up very quickly. You are a human sponge when it comes to soaking up automotive knowledge. Our engineering minds just need to be fed every once in a while. I love this stuff! Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 🍻🍻
great videos. I've already watched them twice!
Then you get 2 Thumbs Up!!!!! Thanks for watching and taking the time to share your feedback!!!! Go Stuff Ehh??? Lots of fun here!!!!
That made me want to start my e21 build!!! Loved that!
btw all series in one sit!
Thank you. Some really cool stuff!!!!
You may find that the "Run" wire on the jeep which you are seeing 6v is being back-fed from the coil. This wire would see 12v when the starter solenoid is activated, giving the coil + 12v making the engine easier to start (stronger spark). Usually fitted to engines with resistor type coils (bypasses the resistor) I found this on my BBC 454
I'm curious what size fuses you are using. I've watched all of your videos about the 4 fuse harness and it doesn't seem to mention it. I'm doing mine exactly like yours for a 6.0L swap in a 1978 K10.
15 Amp fuse for all four circuits. Cheers!
Great videos Mike, they really helped me tie together my harness. I have one question though. What size fuses go into the 4 fuse fuse block? Thank you for everything!
Glad you found them useful. 15 Amp Fuse in all four sockets.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you so much for the prompt response!
Great video! I didn't know about that starter feature on the 2003 and later PCM's. Very cool. Great vid!
That is some cool stuff! I believe your harness has the Blue/Green connectors and therefore should be compatible. Keep having fun!
You just solved a fuel injection problem for me!!!! Thank you Sir!!!!
Sweet! It is such a great platform to share information. Glad it helped.
Great videos! Just trying to work out the electrical load requirements for various circuits. Looks like you're running all engine power through just two relays. Have you encountered any good links for explaining automotive electrical circuits and relay/fuse size requirements. You must be planning on adding all the jeeps extra accessories like lightbars, winches,etc. with an spod type distribution system with totally separate circuits.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes the Engine and it's harness is a completely separate electrical entity. It will have nothing to do with other Jeep component electrical circuits. "Just two relays"... actually only one of the two relays is involved in running the engine. There are two power sides (1) Always Hot and (2) Switched Hot. The Relay on the right of the diagram activates that Switched Hot side when your ignition switch is on. The Always Hot side is routed through 1 Fuse (15 amp) and the Switched Hot is separated into 3 Fuses (15 amps each). You can download the diagram from the description section below the video (Show More).... Hope that helps!!!
These videos are AWESOME! One question for you. The VATS need to be removed from the computer. Any way to do that with free software online? Also what other things need to be done to the computer in order to make it run? Assuming you could still tune it via a computer afterwards? Thanks Again.
These are great questions. I don't know of any software that is free that would allow you to reprogram the GM ECM Computer. I plan to use HP Tuners which requires the software and Tokens to access the ECM. There are companies online that you can send yours to and have them reprogram, but you need to document all of the changes you want so that they can do it in one swoop. The problem with that is if you upgrade any internal components, the ECM needs to be Tuned. Removing VATS is the only thing required to "make it run". However, while reprogramming, it makes sense to disable anything that would falsely generate a Check Engine Light (MIL) event. Since I removed the EGR and Rear O2 Sensors, that will be a few of the Triggers that I will disable. As far as Tuning the program. It is best to make known changes, then run the engine in the car and collect driving data. This will tell you where the computer had to make adjustments, then you go in and turn those adjustments into the default settings. There are tables in the ECM that have to be "smoothed". I am still working on the vehicle that this engine will be installed. I am waiting till I have the engine installed to make all of the changes that I plan. I have plenty of rough notes that I have collected and will review when that time comes. Hope this helps. Mike
Thank you for the videos they were extremely helpful
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed them! Cheers and best of luck with all of your projects!!!!!
So it's been a few yrs and I'm sure you're done with your jeep but I'm doing a swap on my truck and I'm wondering where/who ended up doing your PCU flash and tuning? Thx for great vids
In home restorations, a few years can turn into a few more years. I am still working on the Jeep. I plan to do the PCM flash updates myself. I have purchased HP Tuners and a couple of credits. I have already created some documentation that I plan to follow after the engine is installed in the vehicle. I will video that effort, but it is a while out. Cheers! Mike
I'm doing the same swap on an 86 CJ7- you're helping thousands of people.
From the split bulkhead connector, I assume you're keeping the left side connector's wires intact (the headlights, turn signals wires). From the right side bulkhead connector, you're splicing into the 2 wires (blue & red w/ white tracer) that go into the old Jeep ECU.
What other wires will you use that come out of the right side bulkhead connector? Thanks for all your work.
My plans are to install a new Jeep Body wiring harness which will completely replace the fire wall split connector. That wire is old, weathered, and stories of it being a lower grade wire.... I want to avoid future issues. That harness will resemble the one that I analyzed in this video. I will still only need to find a Switched 12V+, Constant 12V+, and Ignition wires to connect it to the Engine Wiring Harness. These old Jeeps do not have an ECU. They did have a Ignition module (on the Driver's side fender well). That module is not needed for the new engine. The engine and engine harness pretty much runs independent from the Jeep harness. And Yes... the Headlight and "Grill" area legs of the harness are independent of all this engine stuff and remain unchanged (other than my plans for the new Body harness). Hope that helps! Thanks for following along... It's up to us to keep these ole Jeep alive. Cheers and have a blast with yours!!! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you very much. Hope yall have a great Thanksgiving.
@@MyDyerMaker You are welcome and have a great Thanksgiving as well. Cheers!
Thank you so much for these videos they definitely give me a good overview before I begin, one question though, won't you need a tune to remove the sensors you've removed so the ECM won't be looking for them?
Thanks for the feedback. Yes the PCM will need to be re-programmed to remove VATs and other items that I have removed so that erroneous codes are not thrown for items that are not present. I still have to installed the engine and I am waiting until then so I can test the tune and it would still be available for tweaking. I do not plan to reprogram myself.
Thanks for the series you're the man
Thank you sir! Glad you are enjoying it! More to come soon!
This may or may not have any thing to do with this vehicle but it used to be that a starter relay had another connection usually marked R. There used to be a ballast resister that lower we the voltage to the coil but the R got connected to the other side of the resister so during cranking when the voltage was low due to the starters draw the coil would get the full available voltage to help the engine start easier. I can't see the schematic well enough to follow it but it's a possible reason and if not, you may still run into this at some point on some other project. You seem super thorough so I thought I'd add this for your consideration.
Thank you! Some very good information. Cheers!!!!!
Great videos. By chance did you ever do a continuity test across each connector in your rewired loom to check to be sure both the connections are complete and there's no breaks in the wire underneath? Also curious if that larger gauge wire you used to continue the purple wire would draw more amps and confuse the computer. If I recall that goes to your starter, and not sure if amps are measured, perhaps to prevent overdraw when a starter is locked on or too resistant due to heat or wear to crank.
VacFink I did not do any continuity check between end of each wire. The original harness appeared to be in good condition so I did not see the need. If there is an issue down the road, I can take care of it individually at that time. The wire that I used to extend the purple starter wire is of the same gauge. I should not see any issues there. It is the trigger wire for the Starter Solenoid. The starter motor gets its positive connection directly from the battery.
A larger wire can carry more amps without letting the smoke out, but does not draw more amps by itself. It would technically drawslightly less amps due to lower resistance, but in this case were talking about a very small fraction of an amp on a 10 amp circuit. Also, that wire is not carrying the current that turns the starter, it is carrying the current that runs the electromagnet that pulls the solenoid armature in to connect the battery cable to the starter motor. Another way to look at it is the starter solenoid is just a really big (400+ amp) relay, and his purple / red wire is the trigger wire for the relay.
One question sir. I’m working on my harnesses (obs and ls) I know where to connect the tcc wire from the harness but where do I connect the tcc wire from the pcm?
Sorry, but my solution and research has been for installing my engine in front of a Manual transmission so I do not plan to use the TCC circuit. Someone else might be able to provide you help. Mike
Great info once I again you made this look so easy!
Thank you Stephen. Not too difficult if you surround yourself with information. I have a lot of fun with this one!!!!
Question: theoretically, if you didn't do all this and wanted to run a stock harness so that you can bench run a motor, all you would need to do is power the pink wire and purple/now red wire(out of the 4 wires leaving fuse junction) and that harness would have all the power it needs to run? Not sure if I'm asking or stating a fact. Lol thanks in advance
Is that with without the VATS deleted?
I believe you are correct in that you can power the proper wires in the stock harness and get the engine to run (Pinks, Orange, Ground, and come up with a Starter Solution Purple).
Oh ok, so you would have to power all of them. Thought you can just power pcm wire and start supply wire.
Coils will need power (2 Pink), Injectors need power (4 Pink), PCM (Pink).... So yea, there are several pink wires that need power for it to run.
UCanDoIt2 that makes sense. Thanks again!
Could the pink wire be connected to “run and crank” or should it just be connected to “run” only. My fuse block has a fused plug-in labeled IGN which is hot in the run and the start positions. Any reason why that wouldn’t work for the pink wire?
That would work just fine. It implies that you will have +12V on your Pink circuit in Run and during the momentary Crank positions. No harm there. Mike
Thanks for the quick response! Great videos, I think this seems to be the part of the swap everyone frets over. Thanks again!
I have a question about the yellow wire (the fuel pump wire) is that sending out a 12v + signal or ground signal because for my Ls swap my plug into the fuel pump takes a ground signal?
For my configuration and in my drawing, the Yellow Fuel Pump Wire is a +12V Feed wire. I’m looking at my diagram and believe, if you are wanting to use a similar solution to provide Ground. You could do that by simply changing out the Orange Wire for a Ground wire. Then when the PCM triggers the relay with the Green wire, the Yellow wire would be providing a Ground to your pump.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike awesome thank you so much!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I just looked but that orange wire that it is connected too is a battery PCM battery supply so don't I need to keep that? If so would I do with the orange wire? sorry I am just alittle confused.
So I believe you said (I’m not so many words), that you need the PCMs Green wire trigger to turn on your fuel pump by providing a Negative signal. Right now my diagram provide a Positive signal. To change that, you would need to change what is going IN the relay at the right (according to my drawing) to be a Wire providing A negative connection and not providing a positive (+12v as the current Orange wire is doing.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'm just confused now I was talking about the orange wire. I also sent you an email showing how I believe mine is supposed to be wired I am just not sure how it to wire it up too yours.
Thank you so much for the series! This has helped me so much. I have a ppl wire left over tho that came off the c100 connector called “starter solonid”. Is that what needs to go to the run position?
Yes. When the Ignition is turned to the "Start" position, 12V+ will be sent through the Purple Wire to the Starter Soleniod. This activates the Solenoid which closes another 12V+ circuit that powers the Starter. Cheers!
Great stuff. I'll use much of your hard work as I move forward with my swap along with lt1swap.com. Any chance we can see more of your install? Episodes 1-18 just left me wanting more! Thanks!
Thanks again!!
Do you have any idea what I will need to do for the keyed 12v or battery 12v, because I’m removing nearly the entire chassis harness out of my car.
I just watched all your LS wiring harness videos. Thank you so much. They are very nicely done. I want to be able to do stuff really right and do it myself, which is what these videos will help me to do. I am curious about how to tweak the PCM to remove the VATS and all the other features and codes that will no longer be used. Do you have thoughts on how to do that?
My plans are to hire that out. I have programming experience and could learn how to use the HPTuner s/w, but don’t need to spend the time. Typically you would download the current s/w configuration from the pcm, make changes, the upload the new config to the pcm. Most guys that do a lot of these have “files” ready to upload with slight tweaking based on your config. VATS is one of the things that is most often disabled. Hope this helps.
I was leaning towards the HPTuner software. I would like to be able to make changes myself. Thanks for your help.
hey sir! I know I bug you with questions and comments on your video, which are great by the way but I want to run an idea by you and maybe see a second approach....... so I have a 1980 chevy k10. I have a 4.8/5.3 but o harness which is no big deal just gives me more time for a more simpler and better approach before I tackle any wiring... so I want to run the pcm and maybe the relays into the cab under the dash(to be determined). I know ill have to extend the harness and re-route the stock wiring location which is fine... but my idea was to have a waterproof connector in between the pcm and harness attached to the engine. this will allow me to utilize a smaller diameter hole in the firewall and easier to disconnect for easier mainence when needed.... I know its sketchy with another potential area to be a problem but I want to keep the pcm clean and out of the elements and clean up from under the hood so it doesn't look like I threw duct tape and gorilla glue at it in hopes it'll fix itself.... what is your thoughts and/or approach?
First of all Brian, I always enjoy your comments. They are always encouraging and most require some thought like this one. Sounds like you are thinking about some form of a bulkhead connector. I like the idea of the PCM under the dash and out of the engine bay (very clean). As you mentioned, this will require you to extend every wire. So the two options are 1) Hard solder the extensions and cut a hole in the firewall large enough to pass the PCM connectors. Then use a rubber grommet to close the hole. This would be a large grommet and IT would dictate the hole size/shape in the firewall. 2) Strategically plan your splice at the firewall and use a bulkhead connector so that it can be disconnected there. Problem might be finding one with enough pins to accommodate. Both are good options. Both suggest that you might be better off buying 2 harnesses. Cutting one near the PCM for your Engine side portion and cutting the other near the sensors for your PCM side portion. Then join with option 1 or 2. Good stuff!!!
UCanDoIt2 Yeah exactly!!!! I was thinking of using a stock bulkhead from another vehicle that has enough connecting ports and do one wire at a time.... it involves a lot of work but maybe something to do.... and I like the second harness idea bc I can probably buy one that's all boogered up for a few dollars.... I'll confided your options... bc I would really like to use butt connectors and hard solder for better and stronger connectivity..... but I don't want to drill a 1.5" hole in the firewall if I can just drill a little square and provide a better seal as I will be off-roading slightly for camping and stuff so I'm trying to think of longevity but dependability and accessibility justincase I need to pull the engine or change cabs or access wiring later on down the road..... but really THANK YOU for all your advise and I'm sure I'll think of some other idea....... thanks again sir for everything
Brian Davis if one bulkhead connector doesn’t have enough pins add a second boom
The pcms are the same from 99 to 06 gmt800 trucks the pcms with the last three numbers of 411 known as a 411 pcm have more functionality so you should be able to set the starter time you want
I noticed that the 2003 and Up Harness contained some additional wires and PCM related pin for this on the Blue/Green connector style harness. The pinning of my Blue/Red connector harness was not wired for it. Interesting that the PCM has the capability. Good to know! Thanks for sharing!!!
UCanDoIt2 yes no problem
do you or would you do this to my harness if i sent you the harness and some cash?
Wow! This is lt1swap.com on video! Nice work, very helpful and nice video!
Well that is a very nice compliment! Thank you. Brendan has put together an incredible site and it provided me the confidence and direction to keep my project on track. Cheers!
On the red connector for pcm.Pin 38 PWM fuel gauge signal output.Does that go to the fuel gauge on dash or fuel level for tank?
To be honest, I am not sure what that circuit is for. It is labeled as OUTPUT. Therefore, I assume that it goes to the Dash. I would have to check, but I do not think my harness had a wire in this port (R38). The vehicle that I am swapping my motor into will use an independent (has nothing to do with the Engine Harness or PCM) circuits for the Fuel Level.
run on start selnoid is to provide power to coil only while cranking the engine.
Awesome videos. I plan on doing a LS swap in a squarebody Chevy truck next Spring (If funds allow) and doing my research now! I have bookmarked all of them and I'm sure I'll add a few numbers to the views lol. Just a quick question though! Are you having your PCM tuned? I noticed you're removing the rear o2 sensors. Is this beast going to be cat-free? That is the only thing I don't really get so far as it would probably throw a CEL without those rear 2 o2's. I hope I worded that right. Thanks again!
I would love to do an old truck one day. Yours should be a fun project. Yes, the PCM will need to be reprogrammed to "Delete" several standard feature to eliminate throwing codes. VATs (Vehicle Antitheft), Rear O2s, EGR, anything Automatic Transmission based, etc. To be honest, I don't know all the answers... I will be sending it off for the re-programming and expect them to ask the appropriate questions. I don't have much concern on how this is going to work out. Best of luck with your research (my favorite part) and your build!!!!!!!
If you already answered this I'm sorry but what size fuses did you put in the fuse block?
15 amp fuses in all four positions.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thanks
aaaaaaaaaand were back!!!!
note pad out and ears open!
Awesome!!!!! My most attentive student! Read this to my wife and we both laughed!!!!! Continue to have fun!
awsome!
awesome!
That extra wire on the starter solenoid gives 12v to the coil during cranking. One started the coil runs off a resistor wire
Perfect! Thanks Mike
my question is, why were you only getting 6v at the solenoid? is there an ohm issue with the wire running from the junction that you tested last that had the 11v?
There should not be a difference in Voltage taken at those two points. They essentially the same. When I take out this engine and remove the Starter Solenoid, I will trace that wire back through the loom and see if it is wired differently than the diagram. I need to find that splice anyway and terminate the Solenoid segment of wire.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the solenoid gets partial voltage (baby blue wire) to energize similar to a coil, and full voltage in key position 2 to induce the starter. Just watched the LS build and harness videos. You are THE MAN! You take the fear out of the average Joe doing the job themselves. Great work. Two thumbs up to you and your sons.
Do you have to send the computer out or is it plug an play after this point?
jerellis1983 The PCM computer does need to be reprogrammed. An example would be to at least remove the VATS (vehicle anti theft) functionality. It will only run for a few seconds with out mod. You would also want to have any other items that you have removed the sensors to be disabled in the computer so that you do not get false Check engine warnings or throw inappropriate codes.
UCanDoIt2 Nice! Thanks for the reply and the awesome video’s. Keep up the great content!
jerellis1983 sorry, that should have read, DOES need to be reprogrammed.
I need to pick your brain again. Im using a 99 to 01 Silverado computer but im using an 07 Cadillac STS drop in MAF sensor. Im having a hard time finding a wiring diagram. Both Setups run a 5 pin connector.
Sounds like you are going to need to find the pin specs for the new MAF and validate that it is pinned like the harness is expecting. If not, you can cut and splice the harness wires at the connector to make the required adjustment.
I was hoping you had them lol. I think i just figured it out though. The ground was in a different location. Im going to swap it out tomorrow and see what happens.
You're the one with the Frankenstein group of parts!!!!! Baha! Hope it works!
Yeah it's a hodge podge lol but i think it's going to work
Heck yea.... It's going to work!
Nice and easy that is the way I like it
Now I know that's right! Cheers!
So I'm 5.3 swapping my 02 new edge mustang. I have a ? Will this wire harness set up work for my build as well?
This wiring harness approach will create a solution that will allow you to drop this engine into anything with four wheels and connecting the main four wires, it will fire. You will/may have to make some different decisions if you are running an automatic transmission, my will be a Manual. You will have to research and figure out how to connect to your dash instrumentation.
Sir can you make corolla 2005 wiring harness
The wiring process shown in this video series is not vehicle specific. You can drop this engine and harness in any vehicle that it will physically fit and make it work.
Would the connector u got in the subscription work for a caprice 86
I believe you are referring to the 8 Pin Connector that I added to the harness. This connector just needs to be compatible with itself. It is being used to allow me to install the engine and harness and then attach the mating connector which will have custom connections to the accessories. Think of it a disconnection point.
Thank you bro needed that and when u say mating u mean that’s on your oem harness because ik you doing a swap and one more thing once the Ls is rebuild do u have to set the timing thought gm left that in the past with the 305 etc
You will not need to worry about timing. The PCM will receive rotational information from the sensors and determine when to fire the plugs.
Good ok because I seen you was setting the rockers and did u need to program your computer for the swap
The reason that early starters have a 12volt run wire is to give the coil full 12 as you are cranking the engine
Where does the purple 12v+ battery connect to?
One end to your Starter Solenoid and the other to an existing wire from your ignition switch (Start Position).
Didn't you switch the two red power leads from your last video? I thought you said the red coil of wire was for the starter, not battery
Let me describe the 4 wires again (based on how they look the 2:00 mark of this video.(1) Left RED Wire - There is a large gauge Purple wire coming from the Starter Solenoid that is spliced over to this Red (looks Pink in the video) wire. In my wiring diagram, it is labeled as the Purple Wire. This wire will need to be connected so that it get + when the key is turned to start.(2) Left Center RED Wire - This needs to essentially be connected strait to the Battery. There are many creative ways to do this. I will show more details when my project Jeep gets to that point. You can get creative.(3) PINK Wire - This is your Keyed Positive. Is need to be connected to the ignition switch so that when the Key is IN and Turned to the 1st position, You get a + Feed.(4) Right Yellow Wire - This will be run back to the Fuel pump and connected to the Positive side. When the PCM requests the Fuel Pump to be on, it will send positive voltage to the Fuel Pump Relay, then the Fuel Pump Relay will supply the Positive Current Voltage to the Fuel Pump. The Fuel Pump will be locally grounded.Does this help????
The Large Coil of Red Wire (looks Pink) is for the Starter. The Tightly Coil of Red Wire is for the Battery.
I'm commenting before I finish watching which is probably a miatake, I believe you're getting 6 volts because it's back feeding from your ballast resister.
That very well could be. I will clean all of that up after removing the old engine and it's components. I appreciate the input!!! Thanks...
Can i just leave the pins in and just cut the big blocks and do constant and switch 12 volts
I believe you can. You should properly address the cut ends of the wires. i.e. tape them. From an electrical standpoint, it should not matter if the PCM terminates a circuit (not wire) or it has been extended and then terminated. Just my opinion.
Oh ok yah I'll like to do that instead of opening up the hole harness. Great video btw
So . . . Is the Jeep running?
Heck no! Still working on the Body and Frame. About to remove the tub and have some Frame work done. Cheers! Mike
What did you use for programming?
I have not programmed it yet. The local resource that I was going to use, has moved. I will be sending it off somewhere...
UCanDoIt2 ahhh. I see that it hadn't been installed yet after I posted this. What are your plans then to disable and tune?
When the time comes, I will have to find a place that I can send it to. Most likely will have to mail it off. I have been holding off on getting it done until I was closer to needing it so that if small adjustments needed to be made, it would be covered under the "new" tweaks.
Blackbear tuning does mail order tuning. Have you thought about grabbing hptuners and tune it yourself? As long as you still have the aldl port that is. Loving the build though. I'm doing a single turbo 4.8/tr6060 in an 05 cavalier sedan with my kids.
I thought about doing it my self for about 2 minutes!!! I do various computer programming for a living so figuring out the program would not be a problem. I have seen several good tutorials, but would need to really dig deeper to feel confident with tackling it myself. For some reason, I am just not interested in it. I think mostly because of the software/credits and the fact that I probably would not use it again. I am kind of a "Set it and Forget it" kind of guy. Not really interested in tinkering with it. My setup will have the OBD2 port which is what it would require.
How much do you charge to make a LS wire harness I want to do a LS Swap in my 75 Impala?
Ten Million Dollars! I am too busy with my current projects to offer a helping hand other than the details that I provided in this video series.
UCanDoIt2 okay no problem I truly understand I'm a truck driver and I just don't have time myself do you have a video of the Jeep running with the Ls swap
Not yet! I built the engine first and am now working on the body work of the Jeep!
no i was wondering if you could make my harness stand alone. i will get computer flashed
If your Jeep came with a points in distributor, the other wire is to supply 12v for the point’s
That makes sense. During the restoration, all of that is being removed. Cheers! Mike
i wish i was this good
do you or would you do this to my harness if i sent you the harness and some cash?
Not at this time.... As I am trying to focus all of my spare time to my Jeep Restoration project.
I completely understand. Im trying to follow your videos as we speak. Hope it works. Awesome videos!
Make sure you visit LT1Swap.com and understand what information is available there for your particular application.
When you said tbe harness is going into a bucket, I thought you meant the jeep
anyone else bothered by "Dining Canopy" being upside down?
thanks mate, got all the loom done thanks to your video
ua-cam.com/video/JtM_RKZwm0Y/v-deo.html
did a shout out to you for the work you did
Awesome! I did get a chance to watch your video and plan to catch-up on your build progress. Glad you found the information useful. Have fun with your project. looking forward to updates!!!!
first!
YOU!!!! Are Da Man!!!!!
do you or would you do this to my harness if i sent you the harness and some cash?