I have a similar Trane, if not same one. Installed on its side in my attic. I noticed in May that it just didn't seem to be cooling. I called my service company who has serviced it since they installed it in 2017, they came out and pointed out that the panels that cover the coils and the heater were broken and incapable of fastening to the air handler securely, at all, like hanging off. He pointed out that about 30% of the air flow was leaking out. Since then they've been out about 7 times, replaced the board, replaced the broken panels, all at no charge. And the thing still breaks about every 10 days. just stops cooling. I looked at it today and the coils were COVERED with ice. I called to complain and see what is going on, they said they noticed the doors were broken in 2018 and never told us. So since then, 30% of the air has been leaking from the unit, all day everyday. Here in Florida, that's much needed cool air. My concern now is that it's way overworked and going to die an early death. Could such a leak lead to an early demise of an air handler?
Seems like a very, very poor installation on your HVAC company's part, and improper installer training. Sometimes, these Hyperion air handlers had to be cut, and taken in two sections to get into the attic scuttle hole, but Trane provided a kit for that to secure the two halves together once in the attic. Seems like that was not done at all. So sad. Additionally, they have not been able to find a solution, hence the many times they have been over.
I think the pros mentioned about this unit are very cool. That cannot outweigh the cons. These things are overpriced and way more complicated than necessary which equals way more issues.
For Florida, where attics are 140 to 160 dgrees between May to September, these units are a HOME RUN. Because they are designed like a Yeti cooler. Especially if located in these super hot attics, or even in the garage. MOLD is also very real in Florida, with not just the heat, but the rain, which causes humidity levels to be in the 90 percent range for most of the year. But when you get bad installers, yes, you get way more issues. But would you want your drinks on the beach to be inside a cooler, or a cardboard box inside a tin box? That's what a "traditional" air handler is.... A metal box, with fiberglass insulation glued to the sides of the tin metal. In my experience, not one of them has black mold growing on it within 1 year, and the "fiberglass" insulation can be wrung like a mop, which in turn, kills the "effectiveness" of such fiberglass insulation. This means that you are no longer insulating the unit, which means the unit will fight the heat around it all the time. Imagine trying to blow air to keep the house at 75 degrees, and the surrounding area is 140 degrees. Not very smart. When installed "properly" by a highly trained "professional" the Trane units are a HOME RUN.
I don't think those would work as a gas furnace because of the heat inside the cabinet. Here is a page on it.... www.trane.com/residential/en/products/air-handlers/hyperion-series/
If add power strips (like 8KW), can it work as a electric furnace? This would allow me to convert from oil, qualify for Power utility rebate ($1500) before adding the heat pump.
I believe you must have 2.5 ton, at the minimum, to have 8 kw. At 3, or 3.5 ton, most go up to the 10 kw up until 5 ton, where they switch over to 15 kw. (The model on the video was a 1.5 ton, and it was equipped with 5 kw.
You can put any size heater kit into any of the air handlers. If your house only has one hvac system, you want a 10kw for 2-3 ton, and 15 kw 3-5 ton. If you are limited on electrical service space, you can put a 5 or 8kw heater in it, just when it gets to the teens and single digits outside, you may not get above 70 inside.
just had a tam9 installed last week. How did you run your control wires into this Tam9? Also seems to be a lot of air leaking around where the control wires, line set and some other areas. How about your unit? Any air leaks?
Remember the concept of POSITIVE air leaks vs negative air leaks. Yes, with these air handlers, they leak out, so you FEEL the leak, but that's always better than NEGATIVE leaks. I prefer that for a unit in a garage or attic, sucking in dusty, and unconditioned air.
@@RG_sssSMOKING SGH is correct, but Your installer should have sealed the entry point of the wire and refrigerant lines. There is a special thick robbery tape used for this.
It has dotted lines right along the back, made for that purpose. So the answer is yes! Then, there is a trane kit, (forgot the part #) where you can use fasteners, as well as sealant, such as liquid nails, to put together again. Hope this helps.
The only ones that affect pressures the most are the 4 or 5 inch filters. These affect the pressures, but minimally. They are much better at saving your coils than the cheap blue throw away ones. Ever seen the cost for a coil cleaning these days?..... amzn.to/2MKN0ef
Just had a TAM9 installed last month. Here's a warning to anybody wanting a TAM unit. They are noisy if the return vent is directly under the unit. The unit is in my garage on a box that opens on the other side of a wall into the hall for grill. There is constant, high pitch whine from the fan motor that sounds like you're in a jet at cruising altitude. Putting the fan motor under the coil has to be one of the dumbest ideas. There is nothing to diffuse the motor sound. They installed a baffle in the return but it didn't help much. It's a beautiful unit that works well but had I been more informed about the TAM unit instead of listening to the salesman who said it wouldn't be noisy being the unit was in the garage I would have gone with the TEM unit instead.
Tam are not recommended vertically if higher than 2 tons because of the noise. Bigger ton=bigger motor. Ask the tech to lower the fan speed to the lowest setting, if possible. In reality, the motor in the bottom is designed to last longer, because if above the coil, it will be in constant contact with humidity leaving the coil and entering the motor assembly. Motors do not do well being constantly wet, and that's why they die. Additionally, the positive pressure cabinet means you do not such dirt, dust, and gas fumes from your garage into the unit, and blow through the ductwork and into the home. Trane corporate has baffle solutions and acoustic carpet material for your specific situation, so reach out to them and see. Your local HVAC company may not be the best help, but Trane corporate in Tyler, TX may be a better idea at this point.
I wonder if what you're hearing is wind noise due to inproper design/sigsing of the return and or Grill? I've seen a few instalations that with top mounted blowers you hear the wisling of the high speed air flow, because of what I mentioned.
I beg to differ. If your ducts are sized properly, it will be a million percent fine. For example, this is a 1.5 ton unit, with a free standing return, with louver doors and a 14 x 14 grill on the back of the closet to the master bedroom. Then, the supply ducts were designed for 625 CFM. Static pressures were perfect when tested. So your statement is wrong. Now, if the duct system is undersized, and static pressures are bad, that's not fault of the filter. The guy that designed the ductwork, or the installation company did a disservice. Design ductwork properly, and filter out effectively, but a cheap filter is a coil cleaning very soon. Design ductwork properly, and filter effectively. It's not rocket science but 9 out of 10 homes I see have it all wrong.
@@twosawyers Agree Tommy! I have pressure tested them also. A few months of use will not choke it out, especially with proper return and supply airflow and ducting. A clogged filter left in there for years, now that's a different story altogether.
I just had the new American standard /Trane Tam9 with the variable speed 18 seer condenser. Stay away from it. I had to buy a $600.00 thermostat and now the thermostat won't work with my boiler. Junk don't buy it.
American Standard is the B grade of Trane. Less quality control at their plant = less quality. SHould have stuck with A Grade Trane. Not worth sacrificing quality.
@@SaveGreenHere agree we put in trane xr15 with hyperion air bandler, which is in a hot garage in summer, old trane air handler degraded with time because of garage heat sucked in heat causing sweat, rust, and insulation degradation, hyperion concept of blowing, not sucking, and double wall insulation is a win win!
I've had a couple dealers tell me to stay away from communicating equipment. They say that when they stop communicating with the other components it becomes a nightmare? Is there any way to do variable speed without it being communicating? Or best to find a 3 stage unit?
Yes, you can have variable speed without communicating. You can also have variable speed handler, and variable compressor as well, instead of 2 stages.
@@thebigdoghimself Depends. They seem to work very well in removing humidity more effectively, so depends if you live in a high-humidity area. But, being more complicated, you should ensure a good warranty, or extensive warranty. Trane usually includes 2 year warranty on communicating equipment for labor, and 12 years parts.
I have a similar Trane, if not same one. Installed on its side in my attic. I noticed in May that it just didn't seem to be cooling. I called my service company who has serviced it since they installed it in 2017, they came out and pointed out that the panels that cover the coils and the heater were broken and incapable of fastening to the air handler securely, at all, like hanging off. He pointed out that about 30% of the air flow was leaking out. Since then they've been out about 7 times, replaced the board, replaced the broken panels, all at no charge. And the thing still breaks about every 10 days. just stops cooling. I looked at it today and the coils were COVERED with ice.
I called to complain and see what is going on, they said they noticed the doors were broken in 2018 and never told us. So since then, 30% of the air has been leaking from the unit, all day everyday. Here in Florida, that's much needed cool air. My concern now is that it's way overworked and going to die an early death.
Could such a leak lead to an early demise of an air handler?
Seems like a very, very poor installation on your HVAC company's part, and improper installer training. Sometimes, these Hyperion air handlers had to be cut, and taken in two sections to get into the attic scuttle hole, but Trane provided a kit for that to secure the two halves together once in the attic. Seems like that was not done at all. So sad. Additionally, they have not been able to find a solution, hence the many times they have been over.
I think the pros mentioned about this unit are very cool. That cannot outweigh the cons. These things are overpriced and way more complicated than necessary which equals way more issues.
For Florida, where attics are 140 to 160 dgrees between May to September, these units are a HOME RUN. Because they are designed like a Yeti cooler. Especially if located in these super hot attics, or even in the garage. MOLD is also very real in Florida, with not just the heat, but the rain, which causes humidity levels to be in the 90 percent range for most of the year. But when you get bad installers, yes, you get way more issues. But would you want your drinks on the beach to be inside a cooler, or a cardboard box inside a tin box? That's what a "traditional" air handler is.... A metal box, with fiberglass insulation glued to the sides of the tin metal. In my experience, not one of them has black mold growing on it within 1 year, and the "fiberglass" insulation can be wrung like a mop, which in turn, kills the "effectiveness" of such fiberglass insulation. This means that you are no longer insulating the unit, which means the unit will fight the heat around it all the time. Imagine trying to blow air to keep the house at 75 degrees, and the surrounding area is 140 degrees. Not very smart. When installed "properly" by a highly trained "professional" the Trane units are a HOME RUN.
Having an issue with the secondary drain line drips water(small amount) no clogged drain lines. Please any advice?
The PVC couplings are leaky
How about this as a gas furnace and evap coil
I don't think those would work as a gas furnace because of the heat inside the cabinet. Here is a page on it.... www.trane.com/residential/en/products/air-handlers/hyperion-series/
If add power strips (like 8KW), can it work as a electric furnace? This would allow me to convert from oil, qualify for Power utility rebate ($1500) before adding the heat pump.
I believe you must have 2.5 ton, at the minimum, to have 8 kw. At 3, or 3.5 ton, most go up to the 10 kw up until 5 ton, where they switch over to 15 kw. (The model on the video was a 1.5 ton, and it was equipped with 5 kw.
You can put any size heater kit into any of the air handlers. If your house only has one hvac system, you want a 10kw for 2-3 ton, and 15 kw 3-5 ton. If you are limited on electrical service space, you can put a 5 or 8kw heater in it, just when it gets to the teens and single digits outside, you may not get above 70 inside.
just had a tam9 installed last week. How did you run your control wires into this Tam9?
Also seems to be a lot of air leaking around where the control wires, line set and some other areas. How about your unit? Any air leaks?
Remember the concept of POSITIVE air leaks vs negative air leaks. Yes, with these air handlers, they leak out, so you FEEL the leak, but that's always better than NEGATIVE leaks. I prefer that for a unit in a garage or attic, sucking in dusty, and unconditioned air.
@@SaveGreenHere Thanks, I was not expecting this but I guess I need to put something on there to slow down the air from escaping.
@@RG_sssSMOKING SGH is correct, but Your installer should have sealed the entry point of the wire and refrigerant lines. There is a special thick robbery tape used for this.
Is it possible to cut the coil cabinet in half to fit into tight attic door?
It has dotted lines right along the back, made for that purpose. So the answer is yes! Then, there is a trane kit, (forgot the part #) where you can use fasteners, as well as sealant, such as liquid nails, to put together again. Hope this helps.
It’s made to be taken apart and fit try a fold down ladder I did it and it’s not hard to take it apart
It’s a well thought out
What's the pressure drop with that filter?
A LOT.....😃
The only ones that affect pressures the most are the 4 or 5 inch filters. These affect the pressures, but minimally. They are much better at saving your coils than the cheap blue throw away ones. Ever seen the cost for a coil cleaning these days?..... amzn.to/2MKN0ef
Just had a TAM9 installed last month. Here's a warning to anybody wanting a TAM unit. They are noisy if the return vent is directly under the unit. The unit is in my garage on a box that opens on the other side of a wall into the hall for grill. There is constant, high pitch whine from the fan motor that sounds like you're in a jet at cruising altitude. Putting the fan motor under the coil has to be one of the dumbest ideas. There is nothing to diffuse the motor sound. They installed a baffle in the return but it didn't help much. It's a beautiful unit that works well but had I been more informed about the TAM unit instead of listening to the salesman who said it wouldn't be noisy being the unit was in the garage I would have gone with the TEM unit instead.
Tam are not recommended vertically if higher than 2 tons because of the noise. Bigger ton=bigger motor. Ask the tech to lower the fan speed to the lowest setting, if possible. In reality, the motor in the bottom is designed to last longer, because if above the coil, it will be in constant contact with humidity leaving the coil and entering the motor assembly. Motors do not do well being constantly wet, and that's why they die. Additionally, the positive pressure cabinet means you do not such dirt, dust, and gas fumes from your garage into the unit, and blow through the ductwork and into the home. Trane corporate has baffle solutions and acoustic carpet material for your specific situation, so reach out to them and see. Your local HVAC company may not be the best help, but Trane corporate in Tyler, TX may be a better idea at this point.
I wonder if what you're hearing is wind noise due to inproper design/sigsing of the return and or Grill? I've seen a few instalations that with top mounted blowers you hear the wisling of the high speed air flow, because of what I mentioned.
That filter will choke your system out. I've had it happen not fun at all. To restrictive on the airflow
I beg to differ. If your ducts are sized properly, it will be a million percent fine. For example, this is a 1.5 ton unit, with a free standing return, with louver doors and a 14 x 14 grill on the back of the closet to the master bedroom. Then, the supply ducts were designed for 625 CFM. Static pressures were perfect when tested. So your statement is wrong. Now, if the duct system is undersized, and static pressures are bad, that's not fault of the filter. The guy that designed the ductwork, or the installation company did a disservice. Design ductwork properly, and filter out effectively, but a cheap filter is a coil cleaning very soon. Design ductwork properly, and filter effectively. It's not rocket science but 9 out of 10 homes I see have it all wrong.
No way. I have pressure tested these. If they’re in for 3 years I will agree, but 3 to 6 months you should be ok.
@@twosawyers Agree Tommy! I have pressure tested them also. A few months of use will not choke it out, especially with proper return and supply airflow and ducting. A clogged filter left in there for years, now that's a different story altogether.
I just had the new American standard /Trane Tam9 with the variable speed 18 seer condenser. Stay away from it. I had to buy a $600.00 thermostat and now the thermostat won't work with my boiler. Junk don't buy it.
American Standard is the B grade of Trane. Less quality control at their plant = less quality. SHould have stuck with A Grade Trane. Not worth sacrificing quality.
@@SaveGreenHere agree we put in trane xr15 with hyperion air bandler, which is in a hot garage in summer, old trane air handler degraded with time because of garage heat sucked in heat causing sweat, rust, and insulation degradation, hyperion concept of blowing, not sucking, and double wall insulation is a win win!
@@SaveGreenHere I believe Trane and American Standard are both built at the same plant in Tyler, TX, so where is the lower QC on the AS units?
Less actual personnel, or QC inspections. Otherwise, they would be the exact same thing, don't you think?
New 470a refrigerant that replaces 410a refrigerant, with Do-It-Yourself kit included..... ebay.us/tVSqEv
I've had a couple dealers tell me to stay away from communicating equipment. They say that when they stop communicating with the other components it becomes a nightmare? Is there any way to do variable speed without it being communicating? Or best to find a 3 stage unit?
Yes, you can have variable speed without communicating. You can also have variable speed handler, and variable compressor as well, instead of 2 stages.
@@SaveGreenHere Hi, thanks. Should I stay away from communicating equipment?
@@thebigdoghimself Depends. They seem to work very well in removing humidity more effectively, so depends if you live in a high-humidity area. But, being more complicated, you should ensure a good warranty, or extensive warranty. Trane usually includes 2 year warranty on communicating equipment for labor, and 12 years parts.
@@SaveGreenHere thank you
Not only that, alot pf techs cant work on them